Vertical barrels for a septic tank. How to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands

03.03.2020

To provide sewerage to a private home, wastewater treatment equipment is used. You can purchase a ready-made septic tank or make the structure yourself.

Any materials can be used for this. One option is to make a container from barrels. A variety of designs allow you to create a complete cleaning system.

The barrel cleaning system can be made into two or three chambers. Drains in this design flow into the container by gravity. To do this, it is installed below the sewer pipes.

Initially, the waste enters the first container, where primary processing occurs - separation of heavy fractions. Then the lighter water passes through the pipes into the second chamber. Here, additional purification is carried out through aerobic or anaerobic processes.

The treated wastewater enters the third tank, and through it exits to the filtration fields.

Photo: view of septic tanks made from barrels

The completed structure can last for several years. To increase service life, it is necessary to check the first container for clogging or siltation. If you need to increase the volume of the system, then install an additional barrel in the cascade.

What kind of barrels can you take?

When building a treatment system with your own hands, you can use any containers. An old plastic or metal barrel may be suitable for this; the main thing is to check it for leaks before installation.

This is due to a number of advantages:

a wide range of products designed for septic tank equipment;
ease of installation. Plastic is completely ready for use; it does not need to be pre-treated like metal tanks;
high stability. Barrels withstand the aggressive effects of wastewater that enter it well. Thanks to this, plastic barrels will last longer, unlike metal ones;
good tightness. This protects against penetration into the product groundwater or leakage of waste from it;
does not require the use of heavy equipment. Due to the light weight of the containers, the installation process is greatly simplified.

Photo: light weight plastic barrels

It is more difficult to make from barrels, unlike metal products. Since in winter the septic tank may be squeezed out of the ground or pushed out during spring floods due to the high amount of groundwater.

For reliability, the plastic container is attached to the concrete base using cables. Also, during installation, you should carefully backfill the soil to avoid crushing it.

For a small family or seasonal use, a septic tank is built from metal containers, barrels or cisterns. Such products are not suitable as a full-fledged sewer system.

Their popularity is due to the ease of installation and compactness of the device. Each of the barrels has a lid or it can be made independently from wood. To install such a septic tank, you need to dig a hole, the walls and bottom of which must first be concreted.

The disadvantages of systems made of metal products include their low resistance to moisture and waste water. Before installation, the barrel must be insulated and treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Even after this, they do not have a long service life. It is irrational to take stainless steel containers, as it is very expensive.

It should also be noted that when choosing a barrel with thin walls, it may be pushed out during operation. The products have a small volume of 200 to 250 liters, so they are not suitable for a large family.

Photo: barrel with thin walls

To ensure reliable sewerage, it is best to use factory-made polymer barrels.

They have the following properties:

material strength, tightness and corrosion resistance;
easy installation. To get a reliable system, you need to follow all installation rules;
no restrictions on use and low cost.

Photo: barrels of different sizes

When choosing a tank for a septic tank, you must take into account the following calculations: 200 liters barrel per person.

This formula takes into account the presence in the house washing machine and a bath, as well as year-round presence of residents.

DIY septic tank from plastic barrels

For small country house Where residents do not live permanently or use water sparingly, plastic barrels are suitable.

It is not difficult to install such a sewage system yourself. It can consist of two containers that act as a sump.

The third tank is . If you do not pour black waste into the system, then the sewer system is unpretentious in maintenance. When removing waste from the toilet, the equipment will need regular cleaning with sewer equipment.

With constant or frequent use country house you need to choose products with a larger capacity: tanks, tanks or plastic cubes. The process of their installation is no different from the installation of ordinary plastic barrels.

When placing a septic tank, the following rules should be observed:

it should not be located close to the house, parking lot or road. The equipment must be located at a distance of at least 5 m from the property and 2 m from the highway;
the distance from the house should not exceed 15 m, since a large distance will complicate the installation process. In this case, it will be necessary to install an inspection well and deepen the pipes;
provide an approach to the design of cleaning equipment.

Septic tank made of metal barrels

A system of metal products does not require large material costs and complex installation work. To organize the system, it is necessary to prepare two barrels with a minimum volume of 200 liters.

Installation begins with preparing the pit. Then holes are made on the side of the products for the inlet of the overflow and the outlet of the drainage pipes. The sewer pipe is inserted into the nearest container with a mandatory slope.

The second barrel and each subsequent one should be located lower than the previous one.

Photo: septic tank made of metal barrels

All joints must be sealed. The septic tank is insulated on all sides except the bottom with polystyrene foam. Then the equipment is backfilled. Cover it with any available material, taking into account the holes for pumping out.

When organizing a septic tank from metal barrels, you should be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they need to be replaced. This happens due to the rotting of containers under the influence of aggressive waste.

How to build a septic tank from two containers

To create a septic tank from 200 liter barrels, you need to take two containers. If sewerage is needed to serve a large family, then the volume of products should be increased.

Important! You need to choose barrels made of high-quality plastic, which will ensure the strength of the structure, since it will be resistant to caustic waste and corrosion.

In addition to containers, drainage and waste pipes should be prepared for sewerage; their size depends on the distance from the house to the installation.

Such a septic tank operates as follows: in the first part, organic waste is separated, and in the second, wastewater is split into light and heavy substances. The lightened water leaves the septic tank, and the remaining remains at the bottom and forms sludge.

Photo: septic tank made of two barrels

Installation from cubic barrels

To manufacture the purification system, they increasingly began to resort to still barrels. The best option would be to install two Eurocubes with a volume of 1000 liters. The equipment is easy to install due to the light weight of the products.

To operate the system, it is enough to place containers in the trench and connect them to each other using an overflow pipe.

The work also consists of bringing the drainage pipe to the aeration or filtration field.

Installing a septic tank from vat barrels consists of the following steps:

Preparing the pit. It should be 20 cm wider than the container;

Photo: preparing barrels

The bottom of the trench is equipped with a concrete pad. Still barrels are lowered into a pit and connected by an overflow pipe;

Photo: still barrels are lowered into the pit

the waste pipe is connected to the receiving tank, and a drainage pipe is removed from the second barrel. It should be located below all the others. The pipe is taken out into a separate hole, which is covered with crushed stone 40 cm wide and a trench is buried;

Photo: the pipe is taken out into a separate pit

All joints are sealed and strengthened;

Photo: sealing all joints

the system is filled with water, after which concreting is performed, filling the voids between the Eurocubes and the walls of the pit. For installation ventilation pipes holes are made in the upper part of the two containers;

Photo: installation of ventilation pipes

after hardening concrete mixture After about a day, the surface above the septic tank is covered with a wooden shield. It must have openings for inspection hatches and ventilation pipes;

Photo: insulation with a layer of foam plastic

Then a layer of polystyrene foam or other insulation is applied and the structure is buried.

The homemade septic tank is ready, it can be put into operation. This design is characterized by durable material and long service life.

Installation process

To create a septic system from barrels, you need to follow these steps:

formation of holes in two products in the upper part. Their size must match the diameter of the flange that will subsequently be inserted there;

Photo: cutting holes for fan pipes

providing entry for fan pipe. To do this, you need to make a hole in one of the barrels. Its size must also correspond to the diameter of the fan fittings. Installation of the flange into the side of the product is impossible, since the surface of the barrel is uneven;
waterproofing joints. You can use any product for this; mastic is best;

Photo: waterproofing joints

accession drainage pipes. To do this, you need to prepare two holes on the side of the second barrel that correspond to the diameter of the pipes;

Photo: connecting drainage pipes

for the first, a concrete pad with a height of no more than 25 cm should be provided at the bottom of the pit. It turns out that it is installed higher than the second product;

Photo: concrete pad at the bottom of the pit

then the barrels are connected to each other and drainage pipes are installed. A drainage filter is made using crushed stone;

Photo: drain filter

At the next stage, it is recommended to check the slope of the pipes; there should be a 2 cm slope per 1 m of length. This is done using a level;

Photo: pipe angle

backfilling the septic tank. It should be carried out carefully so as not to damage the joints and the body of the product;

Photo: backfilling a septic tank

system check. Before connecting the equipment to the sewer, you should check it for leaks. To do this, you need to fill the septic tank with water.

At installation work It should be taken into account that if a turn is required when laying sewer pipes, the angle should be no more than 90 degrees.

Important! In this case, be sure to install a rotary well for free access for the purpose of cleaning them. The trench for the pipes must be made in a safe place.

If this is not possible, then backfill the pipes with a 30 cm layer of earth. Sand and crushed stone are placed at the bottom of the route and this mixture is compacted. Then the sewer pipes are installed and filled in.

What materials and tools need to be prepared?

Depending on the structure being created, different materials may be needed.

In order to make 220 liter barrels you will need the following materials:

crushed stone (fraction 1.8 - 3.5 cm) - 1 car, about 9 cubic meters;
geotextiles – 80 m2;
plastic barrel with a volume of 220 or 250 l - 2 pcs.;
sewer pipe (orange), diameter 110 mm - 5 m;
corner for sewerage under 45 and 90 degrees. 4 pieces each;
Y-shaped tee for sewerage – 4 pcs.;
perforated drainage pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
meter level – 1 pc.;
wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
PVC glue, two-component epoxy sealant and plumbing tape - 1 pc.

To carry out installation and assembly of the sewer system, you will need a kit simple tools: rake, jigsaw and shovel.

Barrel prices

Name	Options	price, rub.	Region
	sheet thickness 4-6 mm	23 500	Tyumen
Metal container for septic tank	8 cu. m.	40 000	Tyumen
Eurocube	1000 l	1 700	Saint Petersburg
Eurocube	1000 l	2 500	Saint Petersburg
Fiberglass container	2000 l	47 000	Ufa
Fiberglass container	3000 l	58 000	Ufa
Polyethylene container Qudro 600HZ	600 l	7 950	Moscow
Polyethylene container Quadro 300HZ	300 l	4 480	Moscow

Making a septic tank from barrels does not take much time and allows you to provide sewerage for a country house. When choosing a material for a purification system, it is necessary to take into account the number of people in the house, seasonality and the volume of wastewater per day.

Video: septic tank for a dacha from a Eurocube

To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. On suburban areas There is often no centralized sewerage network, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of the home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.

Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is fully justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and large volume drained water is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in your country house with your own hands. different ways(from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and we will also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, which includes external and internal piping diagrams.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here the wastewater will be separated into large solid fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that flows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter the wastewater.
An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm on linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations are convenient and efficient; they are indispensable for large suburban buildings. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

Laying the external main

It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.

The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the main line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm; their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. In two-chamber septic tanks, the septic tank occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber septic tanks ½. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in addition to organic matter, wastewater also contains insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. You can do this with feces/ drain pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.

To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you will get the daily water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to drain pipe– 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.

Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make their work more efficient. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.

Before installing the finished septic tank structure, it is necessary to determine a suitable location for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise melt water in the spring the device's equipment will be flooded.

After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and a hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect electric cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. The insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system to clean wastewater, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for realizing your plans is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

Affordable price.
Unpretentiousness during operation.
Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.

The following disadvantages deserve attention:

Presence unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
The need to clean the chambers of solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is carried out incorrectly, the septic tank will not be airtight, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.

The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.

If there are few people living in your house and there is a minimum connection to the sewer system plumbing fixtures, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before starting concrete work, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail whole line inconvenience. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Usually the rings are fastened together with mortar, but for greater structural reliability they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.

Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. The outside of the tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings/backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be done with soil containing a high percentage of sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design of reinforced concrete rings.

For arrangement autonomous sewerage According to the principle of the purification system, any containers can be used. These could be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of dirty water penetrating into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are secured with cables to a concrete base (it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab must be installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.

For seasonal use, sewerage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. Can be used as a lid of the appropriate size wooden blank or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not The best decision, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For installation reliable system It is better to use factory-made polymer barrels for wastewater treatment.

To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:

geotextiles – 80 m2;
sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
Y-shaped sewer tee – 4 pcs.;
building level;
drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
plumbing tape – 1 pc.

Tools you will need:

Shovel.
Electric jigsaw.
Rake.

For a dacha/small country house, if used sparingly, standard plastic barrels are suitable. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.

For private homes with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:

there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.

A sewage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments And complex work on installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

In a city apartment, running water and sewerage are the norm. I also want to go to the dacha plot comfortable conditions stay. However, outside the city there are not centralized treatment systems everywhere. You have to install the septic tank yourself. There are many options for this, but a do-it-yourself sewer system in a country house made from a barrel is the simplest and cheapest of them.

For a private home, it is better to buy a factory-assembled septic tank with a large capacity and using bioenzymes. And for use in the country, a small barrel sewer with mechanical cleaning and soil treatment is quite enough.

How to choose the right place for a septic tank in your country house

A country house is characterized by a small volume of wastewater. They do not live there all the time, but only on short visits, on weekends. However, sanitary and building codes one for everyone.

Sewage from barrels is the best option for a summer cottage

The septic tank of an autonomous sewage system at the dacha should be located away from:

reservoirs, drinking well or borehole 30 meters;
vegetable beds by 10 meters;
house foundation 5 meters;
underground gas pipelines 5 meters;
green spaces (shrubs and trees) by 3 meters.

Attention! Maintaining minimum distances to sources drinking water– the key to preventing their contamination and the spread of infections.

If the septic tank is placed too close to the country house, then the water will certainly begin to destroy its foundation. And the corresponding sanitary standards are prescribed for a reason. Failure to comply may result not only in health problems, but also in legal liability.

Also, when choosing the location of the septic tank, you need to consider:

Properties and composition of the soil - sand easily allows moisture to pass through, and clay soil you will have to equip a sand cushion.
The terrain of the site - the sewer pipe should be laid at a slope from the house to the barrels, the water should move by gravity.
Depth of groundwater.
Climatic conditions– maximum possible negative temperatures air in winter and the level of ground freezing.
The inevitability of the arrival of a sewage truck - containers must be accessible for cleaning and pumping out sewage.

Scheme of the simplest sewer system from a pair of containers

The simplest sewer system at the dacha - this external pipeline and a couple of iron barrels as a septic tank. You can take pipes for self-installation plastic diameter 110 mm. A smaller diameter will not cope with the peak volume of wastewater, and for a larger one you will have to overpay.

Remember! It is recommended to install a septic tank made from barrels as the basis of a sewerage system in a dacha only when groundwater is no higher than 3–4 meters.

The slope of the sewer pipeline for reliable gravity flow must be at least 0.03 (vertical 3 cm/linear meter of pipe). When laying pipes above the freezing level, it will be necessary to perform insulation using moisture-resistant heat-insulating materials.

Barrel sewage system

Which containers are better to use: iron or plastic?

When arranging a sewer system in a dacha with your own hands, you use barrels made of plastic or metal. The first option is easier to install and more resistant to corrosion, but when the soil swells, the plastic container will be easily crushed.

Iron barrels of 200 liters are more popular among Russian summer residents. After firing, this metal container for paints and varnishes becomes an ideal container for creating a sewer sump. It is durable, cheap and light weight, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

Iron two-hundred-liter barrels are popular among domestic summer residents due to their availability

The only drawback of any iron is its susceptibility to corrosion. However, you can always process an iron barrel for sewage bitumen mastic or other anti-corrosion compound.

Advice! In order for a metal sump tank to last longer, it must be coated with anti-corrosion protection (bitumen, paintwork).

Another nuance of choosing between an iron and a plastic barrel is their weight and the need to pour a foundation underneath them. Plastic is light, it will have to be fixed on a pre-prepared concrete pad, otherwise the plastic sump may simply float during floods. There are no such problems with heavier iron.

According to SNiP, the volume of a septic tank must accommodate three daily measures of wastewater from the house. This is with a water consumption of up to 5 cubic meters/day – just right for country sewerage. But it must be understood that these data are indicated for regularly cleaned sedimentation tanks. At least twice a year they are mandatory it is necessary to clean, removing accumulated silt and debris.

The principle of operation of a country septic tank made of two barrels

A standard two-chamber septic tank for a summer residence consists of a pair of metal barrels:

Sealed settling tank for primary coarse cleaning.
Tanks for soil purification.

An option with one sealed tank is possible. But then it would have to be much larger and would have to be constantly cleaned. And for this it will be necessary to call vacuum cleaners with special equipment, paying for their work. This type of sewage system is more suitable for a small cottage, but for a summer house it is better to use an alternative of a pair of iron barrels.

In this case, the wastewater first enters the first tank, where it is clarified and coarse sediment (sand, vegetable peelings and other debris) settles out. As soon as this tank is filled to capacity, the partially purified water begins to flow into the second barrel, which has no bottom. As a result, the moisture, passing through the sand filter and further purified, goes into the ground.

Conventional diagram of a two-chamber septic tank

The first barrel should be located slightly higher than the second. This way the water will drain naturally without any pumps. Also, in the first container you need to make a lid and a ventilation outlet. Sooner or later, solid sediment will have to be cleaned out of it. And ventilation is needed for anaerobic processes to occur.

Technology for arranging sewerage systems in the country

First - earthworks. It is necessary to dig a trench for sewer pipe from the house and a pit for iron barrels. The top of the container will be sprinkled with soil 20–30 cm thick. The hole will have to be dug quite deep. There should be a gap of 25 cm on the sides.

If you plan to use a sewer system made by yourself from barrels in your dacha in the winter, it should be insulated. But in this case, at least a third of the tank must be below the freezing zone, otherwise the water in the tank will freeze. And this is an additional deepening of the pit. You may even need to call an excavator to dig.

In the first: on top there is an inlet for the pipe from the house, and on the side there is an outlet for overflowing into the next tank.
In the second: on the side - an incoming overflow, and from below - into the entire bottom for drainage into the ground.

The inlet should be located 10–20 cm above the outlet, otherwise the water may flow back if it overflows.

Advice! In order not to have to weld metal, it is enough to cut even holes and insert rubber seals of the appropriate size into them. And already enter into them plastic pipes and coat everything with sealant.

All pipes inserted into the barrel must be thoroughly sealed

A cushion of sand and gravel 10 to 30 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the pit and compacted thoroughly. Then the barrels are installed and connected with a jumper. If necessary, they are covered with insulation (foam or expanded clay).

Before connecting the sewer pipe, the containers must be filled with soil on the sides. The earth should be thrown in layers of 20 cm and each of them compacted.

All that remains is to connect the sewer pipe from the country house. It is inserted into the first tank using a tee, the free end of which is intended for organizing the ventilation of the septic tank. Finally, everything is sprinkled with soil on top.

Septic tank maintenance and cleaning

Gradually, the first settling barrel will be filled with solid waste and sludge from their decomposition. To clear it, you will have to call sewer truck.

On average, the volume of sludge increases by 60–80 liters over the summer. But with constant visits to the dacha, the septic tank can overflow long before the end of the season.

Vacuum cleaners should be invited regularly

To prevent this, special biological additives are used that significantly accelerate the decomposition processes and reduce the volume of waste. However, at least once a year, barrels must be cleaned by professional vacuum cleaners.

Video: general principles of sewerage installation in a country house

You can install a sewer system in your dacha using metal barrels with your own hands. There is nothing complicated here; all the necessary materials can be found on the construction market. Such a septic tank will cost inexpensively. However, it is not always worth saving unnecessarily on safety and health. Pollution of soil and water bodies with untreated wastewater is punishable by law. Consultations and advice from professionals on the issue of installing a sewer system will never hurt.

Today you can easily purchase a ready-made septic tank industrial production or build capital treatment plants yourself. But if you need to organize temporary sewerage or wastewater volume in country house is small, simpler and more affordable solutions can be used. For example, build DIY septic tank from plastic barrels . Such a treatment plant will help make life more comfortable and at the same time cope well with the wastewater treatment tasks assigned to it.

Building a house is quite a long process. In order not to give up your usual amenities during construction, you can build a temporary local sewer system - a homemade septic tank. It can be assembled from two 200 liter plastic barrels.

To build such an installation, you can use old, but leak-free plastic barrels. The use of metal barrels is impractical, since the metal is quickly destroyed by sewage. An installation made from metal barrels will not last long.

A septic tank made from barrels is a simple installation, but it is still more convenient cesspool or storage. Such a septic tank purifies rather than heats the water, so the need for pumping occurs less frequently.

When can you build a septic tank from barrels?

Today there are many different models of septic tanks offered by manufacturers. But they are all quite expensive to build, so in some cases it is advisable not to spend money, but to assemble a septic tank using plastic barrels. The advantages of this option include:

Cheapness. To construct the chambers, you can use used plastic containers with a capacity of 200-250 liters;
Simplicity of the device. The construction work of such a septic tank is not complicated.

The main disadvantage of a septic tank assembled from barrels is the limited volume of chambers. The small volume that a septic tank has from barrels is the reason that there will be a need for frequent pumping of sediment.

Advice! It is clear that with a chamber volume equal to the volume of the barrel (200 or 250 liters), the amount of waste should be minimal.

A septic tank assembled from barrels is perfect in the following cases:

Dachas that are used only as a place for periodic recreation. That is, dachas where permanent residence is not planned;
Traditional baths (without a swimming pool, jacuzzi and toilet), in this case, the septic tank will not require frequent pumping;
For construction sheds as temporary installations.

Planning stage

Even the construction of such a simple installation as a septic tank assembled from two barrels must begin with planning. You should choose the location of the septic tank, and also draw up a diagram of the future treatment plant.

Choosing an installation location

Just like any other local sewerage installation, the septic tank should be located at a distance from the well or borehole from which drinking water is extracted. In addition, the septic tank must be located at least 5 meters from the foundation of a residential building and 1 meter from other structures on the site (bathhouse, garage, etc.).

The possibility of pumping out sediment should also be considered. If a sewage truck will be used for pumping, access to the septic tank must be provided.

Selecting an installation scheme

If the cottage will be used by 2-3 vacationers, then you can choose the following septic tank design:

Two or three barrels connected in series, the last of which has no bottom and serves as a filter well;
Each subsequent barrel is located 10 cm lower than the previous one;
The barrels are connected by overflow pipes. The pipe entering the septic tank is located 10 cm above the exit pipe;

Under the first two barrels, which are used as settling tanks, there is a sand cushion made of sand 10 cm high;
Under the last barrel, which has no bottom, a 30-centimeter cushion of crushed stone and a 50-centimeter cushion of sand are first made. This layer is used for final purification of water that is absorbed into the soil;
If soil water is located high on the site and installing a filter well is not possible, it is necessary to construct filtration fields.

Materials for the construction of a septic tank

Two barrels made of plastic, 250 liters in volume. If you plan to install a filtration well, then you will need another barrel without a bottom. The use of metal barrels is possible if a temporary sewer system is being built that will be used for several months.
Fine crushed stone – the size of individual elements is 1.8-3.5 cm;
Geotextiles;
Sewer pipes having a diameter of 110 mm;
Drainage pipes for the construction of filtration fields;
Angles for connecting pipes.

Septic tank installation

Let's look at how a septic tank assembled from barrels should be installed.

Barrel preparation

It is necessary to prepare a hole for connecting inlet and outlet pipes. In the first barrel you need to make a hole for the incoming pipe at a distance of 20 cm from the top lid of the barrel. The inlet hole is made on the opposite side of the barrel, moving it 10 cm down relative to the first;

In addition, you need to make a hole in the first barrel for the ventilation riser. It is better to make the lid of the first barrel removable, since it is in this chamber that solid waste will accumulate the most, so it will need to be cleaned regularly;
In the second settling barrel, the hole for the incoming pipe is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top cover. The outlet pipe is located on the opposite side of the barrel, 10 cm above the opening of the inlet pipe. If drainage pipes leading to the filtration fields are connected to the barrel, then it is better to make two holes in it, located at an angle of 45 degrees to each other.

Pit preparation

The pit should be larger in size than the barrels. The gap between the walls of the barrels and the sides of the pit should be about 25 cm around the entire perimeter;
The bottom of the pit must be well compacted, after which a sand cushion 10 cm high should be made;

If possible, fill the bottom of the pit with concrete mortar. Embedded metal parts with loops to secure the barrels should be installed in the concrete;

Advice! If a septic tank from barrels is being built as a permanently operating installation, then it is recommended to secure the barrels to a concrete slab using bandage belts. If this is not done, then in the spring during a flood the barrels may float and destroy the entire sewer system.

When preparing the pit, you need to remember that each subsequent chamber was located lower than the previous one. That is, the outlet pipe of the previous chamber should be at the level of the inlet of the next one.

Installation of a septic tank

The barrels are installed in prepared places, pipes are connected to them;
Backfilling of containers is carried out using a mixture of sand and dry cement powder. This backfill will protect the septic tank from damage due to seasonal soil movements;
Backfilling must be done very carefully so as not to damage the joints of the pipes with the chambers;

Having poured about 30 cm of the mixture, you need to compact it well around the perimeter of the barrel. Then you can start filling the next layer;
Simultaneously with filling, you need to fill the barrels with water. Filling the containers with water will prevent deformation of the plastic walls when backfilling.

Construction of soil treatment plants

In order for the water settled in settling chambers to be completely cleared of impurities and contaminants, it is necessary to build filtration fields or a filtration well.

Construction of a filtration well

To construct a filtration well, you can use a barrel without a bottom. Additionally, it is recommended to make holes in the bottom of the barrel;
Before installing the prepared container, sand is poured into the pit, the layer height is 50 cm. Then you need to pour crushed stone, the height of the layer is 30 cm. The diameter of the backfill layer should be 50 cm larger than the diameter of the barrel in all directions from the side of the barrel;
After installing the container in place, it should be filled to a third of its height with crushed stone.

Constructing filter fields

Trenches are dug for laying drainage pipes. The trenches must be prepared so that the pipe lies on a slope. The slope size is 2 cm per meter of length;
When building a septic tank from barrels, as a rule, the aeration field is constructed from two drainage pipes diverted from the second settling chamber;
Ditches prepared for laying pipes are covered with geotextile fabric so that the side sections of the material cover the sides;
A thirty-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured on top of the geotest, on which drainage pipes are laid;

Advice! You can purchase already perforated pipes or make holes in regular pipes intended for assembling systems external sewerage. In the latter case, you will need to drill holes for water outlet yourself.

The pipes are covered with crushed stone on top, and then the whole thing is wrapped in geotextiles. The fabric is wrapped so that an overlap of 10 cm wide is formed;
The last stage of work is backfilling the trenches with soil.

So, a septic tank made from plastic barrels is an inexpensive and practical solution for a bathhouse, construction shed or cottage. This installation cleans wastewater and does not require frequent pumping.

Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels for country house

One of the simplest treatment facilities that you can build with your own hands is a septic tank made from (plastic) barrels. This type of septic tank is affordable.

Plastic barrels: building a budget septic tank

In country living conditions, installing an autonomous sewer system is as urgent a need as providing a home with clean drinking water from a well or borehole.

One of the most important components for local sewerage is storage tank or a septic tank designed to collect human waste and sewage. There are several types of septic tanks. This could be a well made of concrete rings with additional sealing, old barrels dug into the ground, or modern system biological treatment. Each owner selects the type of septic tank that suits his needs.

An important factor is the cost of such a structure and the entire sewer system as a whole.

Description and principle of operation

Unfortunately, not everyone can afford to purchase expensive treatment plant. And in In some cases there is no need for it at all. For example, if you plan to seasonally collect wastewater at your dacha, entering the sewer system from a bathhouse or any temporary building. The owners quite reasonably believe that in the above cases there is no point in spending a lot of money on construction works or purchasing a biological treatment station. You can get by with an old container - a tank or a barrel.

With the spread and growing popularity of plastic products, the choice has become much easier.

On the farm or, as a last resort, on the market there is always a suitable plastic barrel that can be used as country septic tank. You can dig either one barrel or several into the ground, connecting them to each other according to the principle of communicating vessels. In a design of several barrels, sewage water will be purified more efficiently. And the capacity of the septic tank will increase significantly.

From the three-chamber structure, filtered and settled water can be discharged through drains onto the lawn or garden, thereby moistening the soil near the root system of plants. Of course, the water in such septic tanks will not be completely purified. Therefore, three-chamber structures are used only when working with relatively clean sewage water draining by gravity from bathhouses, showers and temporary buildings.

If fecal matter, water from kitchen sinks or dishwashers and washing machines are discharged into the sewer system, it will not be possible to purify the water in a filtering septic tank from several barrels. In these cases, it is advisable to use a large-volume sealed container.

The operating principle of a septic tank made from barrels is quite simple. The containers are dug into the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. Waste enters the septic tank by gravity. Depending on the degree of contamination of wastewater, a sealed barrel or a system of barrels is used, followed by filtration of purified water into the ground.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any engineering structure, a septic tank made of plastic barrels has its pros and cons.

The advantages include:

relative low cost of construction;
ease of installation and operation;
resistance to impact aggressive environments and low temperatures.

the relatively small capacity of the septic tank (especially if the first old small container that comes to hand is used);
the likelihood of the container being squeezed out when the ground freezes.

Design Features

The selected barrel or several containers are buried in the ground below the level of the sewer pipes. This is done to ensure gravity flow. The pipes are laid with a slight slope towards the storage or filter tank.

To serve a family of three in the summer, you will need a container with a capacity of not less than 200-250 liters. If several barrels are used, they are installed in one line and connected in series to each other via overflow pipes. Moreover, each of the containers is buried 15-20 centimeters below the previous one (the so-called stepped arrangement), which ensures a slope between the incoming and outgoing pipes.

Typically, the first two containers are used for settling, and the third is used to filter clarified water into the soil. Accordingly, the first containers are always sealed, and the last one has a perforated bottom and is filled halfway with broken bricks or other filter material. A special cushion of crushed stone and sand is installed under the filter tank. 50 cm of sand and 30 cm of crushed stone are poured into the pit.

This bottom filling provides additional filtration of sewage water. And in areas with high level For groundwater, it is recommended to build a drainage field instead of a filter well, to which water is discharged using a drain system.

If the sewage system is not actively used, as mentioned above, it is enough to install one sealed barrel, from which the water will be regularly pumped out by a drainage or fecal pump.

DIY installation

This is done in case of depressurization of the sewer drain. Spilled dirty water poses a risk to human health and can pollute the environment.

A distance of 50 meters should separate the septic tank from any source of drinking water. From rivers and streams - 10, and from public reservoirs 30 meters. There are also requirements for placement relative to roads and even fruit trees. The septic tank is installed 5 meters from the road and buildings, and 3 meters from garden plants.

digging a pit and trenches for pipes;
backfilling the sand cushion and sloping the trenches;
filling concrete base in the pit;
installation of barrels;
connecting pipes (sewer products with a diameter of 10-11 cm are used, which are connected by pipes using sealant);
backfill (a sand-cement mixture is used for the pit around the barrel).

Important points and mistakes

Common installation mistakes include:

Failure to comply with the slope of the pipes. As a result, sewage water cannot move by gravity.
There are several sharp turns. The more bends in the pipeline, the higher the likelihood of sewer clogging.
Failure to comply with the stepwise burial of two- and three-chamber septic tanks. This engineering error leads to poor drainage of water between the chambers of the structure.

We use a 250-liter barrel as a septic tank to collect water from a bathhouse in the country. We bought a new one because we didn’t have a plastic container that was the right size at home.

When connecting the barrels to each other, keep the slope! We made a mistake at first, and the water in the first barrel began to stagnate. Appeared bad smell. It is necessary that the inlet for connection be made 20 centimeters from the edge of the barrel, and the outlet at thirty centimeters - 10 centimeters lower.

Very convenient and cheap septic tank. I used several old barrels. In the latter I installed a filter. There are no problems with operation - the liquid goes into the soil itself.

Selection and installation diagram

Barrels can be of any size. However, when choosing, it is important to consider the number of family members.
A 250 liter capacity is enough for a family of two or three people.
The product should not have too thin walls.
Installation is carried out in compliance with all sanitary standards (the distance to residential buildings, sources of drinking water, roads is maintained).
It is not advisable to use containers with a capacity of less than 200 liters.

Installation work includes:

Preliminary preparation of barrels - sawing holes for pipes. A hole is cut into the lid of the first container ventilation window for the riser through which air will flow.
Preparation of the pit - backfilling with a sand cushion, pouring a concrete base with metal brackets for fastening containers.
Installation of barrels and connection of pipes. Silicone cannot be used as a sealant!
Backfilling of the pit and compaction of the cement-sand mixture.

Exploitation

To ensure uninterrupted operation of the sewerage system, it is necessary:

avoid clogging of pipes;
regularly clean the first chamber (tank) of the septic tank from accumulated solid waste;
carefully insulate the cover of the first chamber, equipped with a ventilation hole.

Subject to these simple rules The septic tank will serve its owners for several decades, because plastic barrels have increased strength and reliability in operation.

Septic tank made of plastic barrels - an economical solution

Septic tank technical specifications for plastic barrels: its operating principle, what are the advantages of designs made from plastic barrels. How to choose a barrel, typical mistakes during installation

DIY septic tank from barrels

Country house, small sauna, a summer camp site or temporary living quarters, equipped for the period of construction of a capital structure, will not be comfortable enough for living without a sewerage system. But purchasing an expensive local treatment plant is not always advisable.

Plastic barrels for the construction of a septic tank

As an alternative solution, you can consider a simple septic tank made of lightweight polymer barrels, which are very easy to bring to the site and install with your own hands in a short time. There are also barrels made of metal, but due to the susceptibility of this material to corrosion, their use is not recommended. Wooden containers are even less durable. Their service life is no more than two seasons.

Principle of operation

Since a septic tank is a system in which household wastewater and waste not only accumulate, but are treated. For construction, you will need two or three barrels, which will become loading and secondary cleaning chambers. To make the system as efficient as possible, it is worth thinking about installing a drainage or storage well into which purified water from the septic tank will flow.

Approximate diagram of a septic tank made of barrels

Let's consider the principle of operation of a two-chamber septic tank made of barrels, equipped with a storage well.

Used water (from the shower, toilet, etc.) enters the plumbing drain hole, from where it flows by gravity through the internal and external sewerage pipes into the first loading barrel-chamber.
The first chamber is called a “settlement tank”, since here, with the participation of constantly acting gravitational forces, wastewater settles. Light fractions and fats float to the top, heavy particles precipitate. In the center of the container, a layer of primary purified technical liquid is formed, which is transported through the overflow pipe into the second chamber-barrel.
The second post-treatment chamber is designed for better treatment of wastewater. Here, in an airless environment, colonies of microorganisms “work” (they are formed 2-5 weeks after the system is put into operation). For greater efficiency, bioseptic preparations can be loaded into the post-treatment chamber, allowing you to quickly decompose all sewage into water, sediment that falls to the bottom, as well as gases escaping through the ventilation pipe.
The degree of purification in the first two chambers can reach 80-90%. To increase the quality of cleaning, you can install another septic tank chamber, which will work on the principle of a post-treatment chamber. If the result suits you, then this measure is not relevant, and technically purified water will be transferred to a storage well.
The storage well has a sealed bottom, preventing water from penetrating into the ground. Disposal of liquid from the well is carried out using a sewer truck or drainage pump, subject to the installation of filters.

Instead of a storage well, you can install a filter (drainage) well. In this case, all the liquid enters the well container, where, passing through a crushed stone filter, it is absorbed into the soil. The method is not applicable at high groundwater levels and clay soil types with low filtration capacity.

Where to begin?

Any sewerage construction requires a minimum design. As prescribed by the standards, cleaning chambers must not only be located at a distance from green spaces (at least 3 meters), the foundation of the house (5-10 m), reservoirs and wells (30-50 m), but also at the same time be located within the reach of a sewer truck. place. Of course, if you plan to carry out preventive cleaning of the septic tank with a drainage pump or bucket, the last rule loses its relevance.

Note! The septic tank should not be too far from the building to avoid the need to lay an excessively long pipeline. It is also not recommended to plan the laying of pipes with turns, as this may cause clogging of the pipe and an additional need for installing a rotary (inspection) well. The best option is a septic tank located 7-10 meters from the house and connected to the system internal sewerage direct pipeline Ø110 mm. For a pipe section of 10 meters slope (the difference between the opposite ends of the pipe) will be 20 cm.

It is important to have information about soil type and groundwater levels. The nuances of installation and the method of disposal of the purified liquid will depend on this.

Septic tanks differ from conventional sewage systems in the volume of wastewater processed. If, when connected to a central system, the volume of water consumption does not matter, then a small installation of barrels implies economical use of water (maximum washbasin, shower and toilet). At the same time, there is no question of connecting a washing machine. A three-chamber septic tank with a volume of about 250 liters is quite suitable for temporary living arrangements for 2-3 people. For more users, it is recommended to choose larger capacity barrels.

It is also theoretically necessary to register the fact of installing a septic tank at the SES, but this design of barrels is unlikely to be approved, so obtaining official permission is left to the discretion of the owners.

Preparation of materials and tools

After creating a project for a future mini-sewage system and the associated calculations (distance from the house, length of pipes, dimensions of the pit for barrels, slope), you should start purchasing all the necessary elements of the septic tank, Supplies and tools.

Polymer barrels (2 or 3), plus a plastic corrugated pipe or an additional barrel for the well.
Sewer covers for septic tanks.

Sewer covers for septic tanks

Sewer pipes 110 mm

For installation you will also need: sand, fine crushed stone (no more than 4 cm), glue for assembling PVC structures, sealant (epoxy base), rubber seals for connecting pipes to septic tanks, pegs and cord, building level and tape measure, shovel, turbine (Bulgarian).

If the groundwater level is high, you will need to pour a concrete base, for which you need to prepare: cement, a mixing container, an electric mixer, fittings (loop-shaped fastenings), cables for attaching barrels.

Container for mixing cement mortar

If the soil is very crumbling, formwork will be needed; it is organized from unnecessary boards or metal mesh with a fine mesh.

Additional thermal insulation materials: insulation for a sewer pipe, polystyrene foam or penoplex for a septic tank.

How to make a septic tank from barrels with your own hands?

Find out how easy it is to arrange life in your dacha and save money on it. Do-it-yourself septic tank from barrels: step-by-step instruction, selection of materials, installation tips.

An example of a homemade septic tank made from plastic barrels

Purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for installing an autonomous sewer system on a summer cottage, used only in summer time, inappropriate. There is a simple way to solve this problem that does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made from metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal constructions are used less and less. The operation of such a sewerage facility is possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a homemade septic tank made from barrels is installed to collect wastewater from bathhouses and temporary buildings.

Requirements for the installation site of the septic tank

When choosing a location for installing plastic containers for collecting sewage waste, they are guided by: sanitary standards and the rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the required distances from the septic tank to the wells and wells used to collect drinking water, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and bathhouse.

Requirements for choosing a location homemade septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city

Approximate installation diagram for plastic containers

If no more than three people live in a country house in the summer, then two or three plastic barrels will be needed to build a septic tank. The volume of these containers must be at least 250 liters. Barrels connected in series to each other using overflow pipes are installed in one line. Holes are cut in the plastic walls of the containers for installing overflow pipes. At the same time, it is taken into account that the pipe leaving the chamber should be located 10 centimeters lower than the incoming one. The depth of placement of each subsequent container should be 10-15 cm greater than the previous chamber (stepped arrangement).

Two sealed barrels are designed to settle wastewater, and the third with a cut out bottom is adapted for a drainage well for natural filtration of clarified water. The first two chambers are installed on 10-centimeter sand pads, well compacted and level. The third chamber (drainage well) is placed on a layer of crushed stone, 30 cm thick, which is poured onto a 50 cm layer of sand. This sand and gravel filter allows for additional treatment of wastewater that goes into the ground. In areas with high groundwater levels, filtration fields are installed instead of a drainage well.

The simplest diagram of a homemade septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.

List of required materials for installation

If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following will be required: Construction Materials and equipment:

fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
geotextile fabric;
a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
perforated pipes intended for drainage;
couplings, flanges;
glue for PVC pipes;
two-component epoxy sealant;
Plumbing tape.

The tools you will need are a level, a shovel, a rake, and a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and tools manual labor Wooden pegs are also useful when marking the area for a septic tank and filtration field.

Features of installation work

First, using a jigsaw, holes are cut in the barrels for installing overflow pipes and a ventilation riser. The hole intended for connecting the incoming pipe into the chamber is made at a distance of 20 cm from the top edge of the container. The outlet hole is made on the opposite side of the chamber 10 cm lower than the inlet hole, that is, at a distance of 30 cm from the top edge of the barrel.

Installing the overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic settling barrel and filling the gap with two-part epoxy sealant

The ventilation riser for removing gases is installed only in the first settling barrel. It is also advisable to provide this chamber with a removable lid, which allows periodic cleaning of the bottom from settled solid particles. In the second settling barrel, two holes are made at the bottom, located at an angle of 45 degrees relative to each other, to connect drainage pipes laid along the filtration field.

Important! Gaps in the holes formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel are filled with two-component epoxy sealant.

Stage #1 - calculation of dimensions and construction of the pit

When calculating the dimensions of the pit, it is assumed that there should be a gap of 25 cm around the entire perimeter between the barrels and its walls. This gap will subsequently be filled with a dry sand-cement mixture, which will serve to protect the walls of the septic tank from damage during seasonal soil movement.

If you have the finances, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled with concrete mortar, providing for the presence of mortgages in the “cushion” metal parts with loops that will serve to secure plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” through the veins, and thereby disrupt the established autonomous sewage system.

The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm

Stage #2 - installation of plastic containers

Barrels are placed on the prepared bottom of the pit and secured with straps to metal loops embedded in concrete. All pipes are connected and gaps in the holes are sealed. Fill the remaining space between the walls of the pit and the containers with a mixture of cement and sand, not forgetting to compact them layer by layer. As the pit is filled with backfill, water is poured into the containers to prevent deformation of the walls of the barrels under the pressure of the sand-cement mixture.

Preparing the hole in the second settling barrel to connect the overflow pipe. In this version, the flange is connected not from the side, but from the top

Stage #3 - setting up a filtration field

In the immediate vicinity of the septic tank, a trench 60-70 cm deep is dug, the dimensions of which should allow the placement of two perforated pipes. The bottom and walls of the trench are lined with geotextile fabric with a reserve that is necessary to cover pipes covered with crushed stone on top.

A 30-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile, the bulk material is leveled and compacted

Drainage pipes are laid with perforations in the walls, which are connected to the second settling barrel. Then another 10 cm of crushed stone is poured on top of the pipes, leveled and the backfill is covered with geotextile fabric so that the edges overlap each other by 15-20 cm. Next, all that remains is to fill the filtration field with soil and decorate this place with lawn grass.

As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. Just remember that this structure is designed for the collection and disposal of small amounts of liquid household waste.

Homemade septic tank from plastic barrels: do it yourself

Selecting plastic containers for making a homemade septic tank: video. Diagram of a simple septic tank made from plastic barrels for a summer house or bathhouse.

It is impractical to purchase an expensive factory-made septic tank for installing an autonomous sewer system on a summer cottage, which is used only in the summer. There is a simple way to solve this problem that does not require large financial costs. You can build a septic tank with your own hands from barrels by combining several plastic containers of various sizes into one system. Previously, such structures were made from metal barrels. However, with the advent of lightweight plastic products on the market, metal structures are used less and less. The operation of such a sewerage facility is possible only with a small amount of liquid waste. In practice, a homemade septic tank made from barrels is installed to collect wastewater from bathhouses and temporary buildings.

Requirements for the installation site of the septic tank

When choosing a location for installing plastic containers for collecting sewage waste, they are guided by the sanitary standards and rules in force in Russia. It is necessary to maintain the required distances from the septic tank to the wells and wells used to collect drinking water, as well as to the foundations of nearby buildings. It is recommended to retreat at least 5 meters from the house, and you can retreat at least one meter from the garage and bathhouse.

Requirements for choosing the location of a homemade septic tank in relation to other life support facilities for people living or vacationing outside the city

Approximate installation diagram for plastic containers

The simplest diagram of a homemade septic tank, which can be built from plastic barrels, concrete rings, galvanized containers, etc.

List of required materials for installation

If a septic tank is being built from plastic barrels with an aeration field, then the following building materials and equipment will be required:

fine-grained crushed stone (fraction size 1.8-3.5 cm);
geotextile fabric;
a pair of plastic barrels with a volume of 250 l;
orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm;
tees and angles for connecting pipes at different angles;
perforated pipes intended for drainage;
couplings, flanges;
glue for PVC pipes;
two-component epoxy sealant;
Plumbing tape.

The tools you will need are a level, a shovel, a rake, and a jigsaw. In addition to the listed devices and manual labor tools, wooden pegs are also useful when marking the area for a septic tank and filtration field.

Features of installation work

Installing the overflow pipe into the hole cut in the first plastic settling barrel and filling the gap with two-part epoxy sealant

Important! Gaps in the holes formed due to loose contact between the pipes and the walls of the barrel are filled with two-component epoxy sealant.

Stage #1 - calculation of dimensions and construction of the pit

If you have the funds, the bottom under the settling chambers can be filled with concrete mortar, providing the “cushion” with embedded metal parts with loops that will serve to secure plastic containers. Such fastening will not allow the barrels to “float” through the veins, and thereby disrupt the established autonomous sewage system.

The stepped bottom of the pit must be leveled and covered with a layer of compacted sand, the thickness of which must be at least 10 cm

Stage #2 - installation of plastic containers

Preparing the hole in the second settling barrel to connect the overflow pipe. In this version, the flange is connected not from the side, but from the top

Stage #3 - setting up a filtration field

A 30-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile, the bulk material is leveled and compacted

As you can see, any summer resident can make a septic tank from barrels. Just remember that this structure is designed for the collection and disposal of small amounts of liquid household waste.