How to properly insulate a frame house, step by step instructions. Warming a frame house with your own hands: step by step instructions Warming an old frame house

27.06.2020

In a previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with my own hands. Now, we will consider instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation it remains reliable protection from frost in the cold season, and also saved from the languishing heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is best for frame house, this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of the total frame houses, are insulated with mineral wool or heaters based on it. Given this, this step-by-step instruction will mainly be based on just such insulation.

Apart from mineral wool, there are several more types of heaters that are more or less suitable for use as thermal insulation of frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
The insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
Mineral wool, in comparison with other types of heaters, is the most versatile material. She insulates not only frame houses, but also any others. As a heater, it is used almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use products personal protection such as gloves, goggles and respirator. Skin contact can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Warming the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floor insulation technology largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently being built on a pile-screw foundation, we will build on this when insulating the floor.

Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor logs that will hold both the waterproofing material and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first a waterproofing membrane is stretched under the floor logs and fastened furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that it does not see through from under the floor. Which side is inward, and which outward material is stuffed - ask the manufacturer.
Also from below, a board breaks through on top of the waterproofing. The size of the board and the installation step does not really matter, but no more than 40-50 cm, if only this is enough so that the sheets or strips of mineral wool do not fall through. Sometimes the board is stuffed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. Here's what the end result should be:
If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first stuffed under the logs, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the logs from the inside of the frame house, as shown in the photo.
When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the joists of the floor of the frame house. It is necessary to lay tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction knife, but always a little more than the required length, about 1 cm.
For ease of installation, the distance between the lags is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60 cm. This means that the distance between the lags, ideally, should be 58-59cm.
The thickness of the insulation layer depends entirely on the region where it is being built. frame house, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the log floor of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than, the width of the board or beam from which they are made.
An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20 cm.
On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be glued with double-sided tape, for example.
Plywood, OSB-board, or a board is sewn onto the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for further finishing.

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind protection, therefore, the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from entering between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located completely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside, the materials used and their quantity do not change from this. We will consider the insulation from the inside, everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the outer walls of the house

It should be noted right away that when sheathing a frame house from the outside and from the inside with your own hands, they use various materials, they may be different from those that I describe in this manual. The procedure may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same thing, as in the diagram. This is an approximate scheme, for example, instead of OSB-plates, on the one hand, you can pierce the crate with slats or a 25mm thick board. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40 cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

Outside, the frame is sheathed with OSB-plates, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, as a rule, it is 2-3 mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from the inside of the house:
Then, also outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external Finishing work such as siding installation, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips so that the joint is tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
Inside the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50kg/m3. A less dense insulation will settle or roll down, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
As well as with the floor, the layers of mineral wool must be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets, at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of the insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15cm.
After all the insulation is laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill in mounting foam all small voids formed at the junctions of boards and beams.
A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from the inside of the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in the installation of the vapor barrier membrane is that it is not overtightened at the inner corners, and the vapor barrier completely repeats the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the sheathing at the corners.

It is worth noting that this whole procedure can be done the other way around, first pull the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the inner sheathing material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of the internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of insulation internal walls frame house are:

If not possible, or to soundproofing internal partitions there are no strict requirements, it will be enough to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most crucial moments of thermal insulation of the whole house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

Since warm air tends to rise up, improper insulation ceiling or roof, the maximum amount of heat will leave the house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a frame house

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of the frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from an external aggressive environment.

This is how the heat-insulating layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help facilitate the process of warming with your own hands:

It is worth noting that it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside, if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners before pulling on the vapor barrier material so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of heaters

Everything preparatory work in terms of thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, they are no different. Differences, and even then insignificant, in the laying of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, polystyrene for frame houses is not the most the best way, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for conversation.

The process of insulation with foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

Styrofoam does not always lie between the lags as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using mounting foam or similar materials.
Expanded polystyrene is a combustible material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
When using foam, you need to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene practically does not pass or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing at home. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers should still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the tree itself, from which the frame of the house is assembled.
Styrofoam is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so care must be taken that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences in the use of polystyrene foam boards and insulation based on them. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Features insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for warming not only frame houses. It can be used as a heater in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I would still not recommend doing this. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment, ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, hand-cooked ecowool has less good performance both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, therefore waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
It is necessary to apply ecowool with a margin, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It should be noted that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now there is a huge selection of materials with much the best performance but I'll tell you a little about it anyway.

Expanded clay in dry form, as a heater, can be used either for floor or ceiling insulation, it is also possible for them to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it in the walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, from below under the logs, must be pierced either with a butt board or with some plywood materials.
Expanded clay is better to use a fine fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that it makes little sense to describe each of them.

In recent years, a frame structure has been increasingly chosen for the construction of houses, which is much cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide a comfortable temperature regime in the premises, but also make the house quiet at the same time. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there are a number of important criteria, which must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "skeleton". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation. frame walls at home and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it for permanent residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
Plate or roll insulation - polystyrene foam various types, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, fibreboard and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

Used for thermal insulation of frame structures modern materials and traditional, familiar to builders for decades. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the way they are used, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is natural material, which has been used to insulate different parts of the building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. Last option called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of clay.
It has light weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not give a large load on the foundation and wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From fine-grained expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for insulating frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance characteristics and ease of installation - they can isolate any shape of the structure. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for backfilling in frames wooden walls, but also three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material is used to isolate the structural departments of the building - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, and also into the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Pellets are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in the comparative table at the end of the publication.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is a moisture-resistant, solid material resistant to chemical and biological influences. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. For warming frame structures ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, filling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for construction for more than one hundred years. residential buildings precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material in the room there will be a large number of dust and debris, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is carried out manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing - into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for warming frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them special formulations, the following features can be attributed to them:

Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
At high humidity sawdust may begin to rot, and mold may also form on them.
When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared for insulation. attic floor, for floors, sawdust is mixed with lime, and for walls, a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter jars. If the attic floor is insulated, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
Further, 100 ml is diluted in a bucket of water per 10 liters boric acid or copper sulfate.
Then the ready, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Wall area of the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
The amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
Quantity blue vitriol or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Loose type insulation installation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

In the first step, the frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) or other material with an external or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well with each other and shrink a little, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with plasterboard or other facing material.
If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
If necessary additional insulation walls, thermal insulation material, it is recommended to mount from the outside of the building, in front of the decorative cladding.
On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
When using sawdust or ecowool for filling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the filling of the wall will occur through a hole, then first it is drilled in the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is fed.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

Frame house insulation- a responsible process, which then determines how much you will pay for heating and whether it will blow through in your house, whether you can even walk barefoot in winter and let your children play on the floor for hours, or you will have to buy warm home clothes, socks and slippers.

I will define important concepts necessary for understanding the text:
Close up of the outline of a house- this is the result of that stage of construction, when the house is covered with a roof, doors and windows are installed in it, i.e. we are closed from precipitation from the street.
Warming "vraspor"- this is insulation, in which the pieces of insulation are wider than the cavity into which we insert it, which leads to the fact that the insulation holds itself due to natural expansion (after all, we compress it so that it fits into the desired cavity).

Let's look at the insulation of various frame elements.

Floor insulation in a frame house can be carried out in a variety of ways and with various heaters. If your house is not built on UWB, then this moment is definitely relevant for you. I drew such a diagram in order to immediately highlight all types of floor insulation in the frame:

The risk of insulating the floor of a frame house before circuit closure is that moisture will most likely get into the insulation during construction and more than once (rains in Russia are not uncommon, and the floor made of plywood or OSB still lets moisture through), which means that the insulation may lose all its insulation properties ( unless, of course, it's styrofoam).

Insulation of the floor of a frame house after circuit closure devoid of this risk, but it requires additional gestures: either removing the floor already under the roof or climbing under the house and insulating it from there, or building walls without a floor at all and installing the walls of the frame house immediately on the logs (not recommended, this is quite dangerous).

As you already understood, the floor of a frame house can also be insulated both from above (being on the floor) and from below (from under the house). Let's review everything possible options and potential problems.

Option 1. Insulation of the frame house floor from above until the contour is closed.

The most traditional option. Immediately after fixing in place, we can insulate the floor of a frame house before covering it with plywood.

If our heater glass wool or mineral wool, then we just need to just insert the insulation rolls between the lags. The width of the insulation should be 1-2 cm larger than the space between the lags (if the insulation is 600 mm wide, then the step of the lag is 630 mm, and the space between them is 580 mm). If the insulation does not converge, then we cut the insulation to the desired size.

To simplify this process, you can first hem the boards or plywood from the bottom of the log so that the insulation cannot fall into the underground over time. To do this, cranial bars are either nailed to the lags from below before installation, on which plates for floor insulation will already be attached (picture 1), or they are attached, and under it an inch in increments of 300-400 mm across the lag (picture 2).

Everything is easier and harder at the same time. It’s easier, because it’s not scary for him to get wet, which means that it’s not scary to insulate the floor of a frame house with foam until the contour is closed. Harder because he's tough and does not stand up so easy, it needs to be cut to the exact size of the gap between the lags (or generally put it on one lag immediately upon installation and press it with the adjacent lag, then there will be no gaps). True, when the boards dry out (unless, of course, the board was already dry), most likely, gaps will appear between the foam and the lags, it is better to foam this space (you can later from the underground). Under the foam, it is also necessary to hem something from below (boards, plywood or wind protection).

Option 2. Warming the floor of a frame house from below after closing the contour.

If you have a basement or your house is on, and it is at least 40 cm off the ground, then you can safely insulate the floor from below. To do this, you will need to prepare rolls of insulation, crawl under the house and place the insulation there by surprise. Then, in the same way, pull under the heaters (or plates supporting the insulation as in option 1). Remember that even if your piles are only 30 cm above the ground, then adding a grillage to them, you get a distance to the floor lag of 50 cm, and this is already a completely working option for warming from below.

Option 3. Floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the contour.

Insulating the floor of a frame house in this way is the most comfortable option, in my opinion. First we put the logs, fix them in their places, put ours on top, fixing it TEMPORARILY 2-4 screws to the lags.

After that, we put walls on plywood (but only load-bearing, non-bearing partitions are not installed at all yet), we put floor logs, rafters, etc. on the walls. until we close the entire circuit walls-roof-doors-windows.
Then we unscrew the screws from the plywood in the floor and cut out the plywood in the places where the load-bearing walls lie on it and insulate everything as in the first option (just do not forget to add jumpers under the joints of the newly cut places in the plywood).

Book your home

There is another variation. If, in advance of installing the walls, not whole sheets of plywood are placed under them, but cut pieces of 150 mm wide. In this case, you do not need to make additional jumpers, and you also do not need to cut anything, just unscrew the screws, remove the black floor and insulate it.

Ecowool and floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the contour.
Everything is the same with ecowool, only it is necessary to attach a windscreen to the bottom of the lag or sew it up with something, because. bulk ecowool and it needs a solid base (it also makes sense to use MDVP instead of wind protection in this case). A big plus of ecowool is that in any case, you won’t need to cut anything with it, take a step lag under the subfloor slabs (and, of course, under the necessary load).
Generally, ecowool, in my opinion - the best insulation for a frame house. If you decide to insulate your house with ecowool, contact me, I work with a real professional blowing walls with ecowool, who travels to different regions.
Personally, for myself, I chose the option with ecowool.

Wall insulation in a frame house

Wall insulation in a frame house goes in a similar way. We put the insulation in between. Remember that the pitch of the racks should also be 20-30 mm larger than the width of the insulation. Typically, the pitch of the racks is 625 mm with a 40 mm board and 635 mm with a 50 mm board. By the way, it seems to me that it is better to cut OSB-3 a couple of times than to constantly cut the insulation.

Video about wall insulation in a frame house from the Rockwool company (manufacturer of the insulation of the same name):

What kind of wall insulation is there?

Types of wall insulation: mineral wool with a density of more than 30 kg / m3, ecowool (wet) and foam. It is these three modern heaters that are used in 95% of the walls of frame houses in Russia. It is difficult to say exactly what best thermal insulation walls are ecowool or mineral wool or polystyrene, since each insulation has its pros and cons.

Insulation for external walls

Special outer insulation for walls it is used if you want to make a plaster facade on a heater. In such cases, you have 2 options: polystyrene foam or high density mineral wool (about 125 kg/m3).

The cheapest and best wall insulation

It can be said for sure that the cheapest wall insulation is mineral insulation with a minimum density, but it is not recommended to use it, although some take risks and even use glass wool in the walls of a frame house. Over time, basalt with a low density can settle in the walls and cracks will appear.

In my opinion, the best insulation for frame walls is. Therefore, it is with her that we insulate the houses of her clients and those who have not been dissatisfied for 7 years of work have not yet been. Ecowool can even withstand fires.
So contact us, we will insulate your walls with ecowool. But we had to throw mineral wool out of the walls more than once because it had become unusable. Of course, she herself was not to blame for this, she simply did not follow the insulation technology, but ecowool forgives even that.

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside

Insulate a frame house from within invented by the Scandinavians. In fact, it is much more convenient than outside, because. in this version, we are not afraid of precipitation and other weather disasters (in particular, tips from a neighbor). Warming from the inside usually also goes in a horizontal crate 40 × 50 or 50 × 50 with a pitch of 400-625 mm, only the crate is already on top of a plastic film (vapor barrier).

Do not forget that the crate is torn at the openings:

Insulation of the attic floor (ceiling) of a frame house

WITH top floor everything is the same as with the floor of a frame house, only there is no point in warming from below, we do everything from above. Remember that you can pour or lay not only 150-200 mm of insulation (in the size of the overlap lag), but also 300, 400 or even 500 mm of insulation. Walking on it will be problematic, but it will be very warm in winter and also cool in summer.

Attic insulation

Video about the insulation of the attic with Rockwool:

Insulation of the basement of a frame house

The plinth of a frame house is conveniently insulated with foam or extruded foam, which is attached to special fasteners.

So, in this article, we got to know the most different options frame house insulation. This is a very important stage that can directly affect the health of you and your loved ones, so I urge you to take it responsibly.

And traditionally, I remind you of our services - you can buy a ready-made one from us or order its development according to your needs, and if you are still interested in insulation, we will insulate your house with ecowool or bring it.

To achieve a comfortable stay in the house during winter period it is necessary to think about insulation even at the construction stage. This will prevent the penetration of cold air into the room and ensure compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions. Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate the house

With the help of thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

condensation from inside the premises;
the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus;
increase in heating costs;
non-compliance with the temperature regime of the dwelling and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, a competent technology for warming a frame house can extend the life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

Home insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this heater. The first is based on the raw materials used to make:

basalt;
glass;
slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation release:

rigid boards;
roll material.

It should be noted that glass wool is produced only in rolls.

Rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable for floors. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both plates and rolls. Best for mansard roofing board material. This will allow you to easily insulate with mineral wool between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, it is necessary to decide which structures require this additional event.

With your own hands, you can protect the following elements of the building from the cold:

the floor of the first floor;
attic floor (if the attic is cold);
mansard roof;
exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be carried out both outside and inside. It is best to mount the thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure the competent work of the material. Warming wooden house mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow you to hold events in all weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation - a guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An external insulation scheme is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

the outer thermal insulation material must not form a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between the two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
house wall thickening

Based on the foregoing, it follows that the thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases, when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Double layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate the walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Follow the following layer order:

interior decoration;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool insulation (2 layers with offset racks);
windproof membrane;
OSB-3 on the crate;
exterior decoration of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the obligatory presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to retain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the racks of the frame. This reduces the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduces the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the racks of the frame, after which sheathing is performed on both sides.

Vapor barrier and wind protection during do-it-yourself work are located similarly to the previous cases: steam protection from the inside, and wind protection from the outside.

With thermal protection of the walls from the inside under the hinged facade, the order of the layers is as follows:

interior decoration of the premises;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool;
superdiffusion membrane;
wall construction;
facade decoration.

Floor insulation

For a wooden frame house, overlappings along the beams are characteristic. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the supporting structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but for their spreading, you will need to pre-install the lower crate or solid flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, it is better to take the step of the wooden floor beams so that 580 mm remain clean between them. This will provide maximum convenience for working with 600 mm wide plates and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing do-it-yourself activities, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is from the cold air side. In the case of intermediate floors, steam protection should be provided from the side of the ceiling.

Attic floor insulation

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on the skin and into the lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Also, workers must have special clothing that completely covers the arms and legs.

Pitched roof insulation

Do-it-yourself installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected with respect to a clear distance of 580 mm.

Work is performed in the following order:

installation of the truss system;
laying a waterproofing layer over the rafters;
thermal insulation;
installation of vapor barrier;
upper and lower crate;
laying roofing material;
ceiling interior trim.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, perform simple actions:

processing of all structures of a wooden house with the help of antiseptic formulations to prevent damage by various microorganisms;
cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
elimination of significant inconsistencies.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will provide the insulation with a reliable connection to the structures and the longest possible long service life.

The construction of frame structures has become popular due to its simplicity. The process comes down to elementary actions, something like collecting objects from a Lego constructor. Insulation of a frame house is also done by hand (this is not a step-by-step instruction, but the usual recommendations).

It is necessary to consider what materials the insulation will be made of, in some cases it is advisable to save money, for example, if the house is intended exclusively for living in the summer.

For all-season buildings, insulation should be carried out in accordance with all the rules, the highest quality materials should be used.

Material selection

One of the main parameters that the material must comply with is its elasticity. Styrofoam and related products may not be suitable. The fact is that the elements of the frame (if we are talking about a frame made of wood) will change their dimensions due to changes in temperature and humidity of the surrounding air. In this case, gaps will appear between the bars and the insulation panels, which will affect the overall thermal insulation of the house.

And the elastic material will fill the entire space between the bars.

For metal frame houses, you can use any materials, for example, polystyrene foam.

Basalt wool

The most common material. It is obtained by melting mountain basalt. Perfectly retains heat, has soundproofing properties. The downside is the change in properties when moisture is absorbed. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully protect it with the help of special films.

Basalt materials are the most fireproof, withstand heating temperatures up to 1000 degrees.

When buying, it is better to focus on the material in the form of plates, the packaging should indicate that the insulation is intended for walls, otherwise after 2-3 years the basalt panels will shrink and cold air will penetrate through the top.

Ecowool

This type of insulation is made from cellulose. There are two ways to insulate with ecowool:

With the help of special equipment, cotton wool particles are mixed with water drops, this mixture is sent into the space between the cells of the frame. In this case, a dense coating is formed that fills the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls;

The dry method consists in pouring ecowool particles into the space between the wall panels, after which the mass is compacted.

As a result, layers of insulation are obtained that are not afraid of either temperature changes or humidity, therefore, additional protection with various films is not needed.

The cost of the material and the prices for the work performed are the only negative sides of this technology.

glass wool

Produced by melting glass. Sold, as a rule, in the form of rolls. It is distinguished by decent heat-insulating properties and resistance to fire, does not emit toxic substances during combustion.

Be sure to check when buying that the material is intended specifically for walls.

Bulk materials

This type includes slag, expanded clay, sawdust. They are rarely used, as there are more effective heaters.

Sometimes they are used for thermal insulation of the floor, as the first layer, after which other types of insulation are laid, in particular, expanded clay, which does not absorb moisture, does not burn, but its thermal insulation properties are not too high.

The tool you need to get the job done

Warming a frame house with your own hands will not require any complex devices and fixtures. To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

Roulette;
Marker (pencil, chalk);
Tool for cutting metal - grinder, electric scissors;
A large knife for cutting the insulation material, you can use a homemade one made from an old hacksaw;
Screwdriver for fastening cladding elements;
A construction stapler for fixing a plastic film (if it is not available, you can use a soft wire);
Other tools may be needed - a building hair dryer, a hammer, screwdrivers, a wood jigsaw and others.

In addition, you need to prepare a stepladder and a long ladder for working on the roof.

Implementation of work - floor insulation

Dirt is removed from the insulated surfaces of the frame, damp areas must be dried with a hairdryer, gaps in the structure must be filled with mounting foam.

If electrical wiring is supposed to be placed inside the walls, then this should be taken care of in advance. The cable should be laid according to the wiring plan, cutting out the necessary technological holes in the ceilings, securing junction boxes, marking the position of switches and sockets.

If the house will be installed: a heating boiler, plumbing, and other additional appliances, then it is better to make all the holes necessary for them (for pipelines, sewage drains, connections) in advance.

The first step is to waterproof the floor. To do this, a special film is attached, and each next canvas should overlap the previous one by 5-10 cm. It is aimed with a stapler.

The heat-insulating material is cut into strips or squares, depending on the shape of the cells between the boards (lags), the pieces should fit snugly into place. Given that the standard width of a mineral wool sheet is 60 cm, the cell width should be 58-59 cm. After laying the thermal insulation, it should be covered with a vapor barrier film on top.

The thickness of the insulation layer can be different. It is necessary to focus on the region of residence and the required degree of insulation: the lower the temperature in winter, the thicker the floor will be and more layers of mineral wool must be laid. If several layers are spread, then they should overlap the joints of the previous ones by about 15 cm.

After laying the thermal insulation, cover it on top with a vapor barrier film. For better tightness, you can glue the joints with double-sided tape. It will not only good protection from moisture, but also additional protection from wind.

After that, you can start laying plywood or OSB-board material on the floor, this layer will be the basis for the finished floor.

Insulating the walls of a frame panel house with your own hands is a little more difficult than the floor.

The technology is about the same as with floor insulation.

The wall is sheathed on one side, for example, with plywood. Between the plates there should be gaps - about 2-3 mm. These gaps can be filled with mounting foam, and then cut off the excess protruding above the plane.

After that, you can begin to stretch the waterproofing film to protect both the frame and the house itself from moisture from the outside. It is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape (some types of film have self-adhesive strips at the ends).

Now you should lay the insulation boards, if a distance of about 60 cm is maintained between the boards, then the sheets will be laid tightly, if not, you will have to temporarily fix them (you can, for example, stretch a strip of adhesive tape along the entire length of the wall).

The average thickness of the insulation is 15 cm, however, if necessary, several layers can be used with an overlap of previously laid at the joints, by about 10-15 cm.

A vapor barrier film is stretched over the insulation to protect it from moisture that will come from inside the house. It is necessary to carefully stretch the film at the corners, repeating the contours as accurately as possible, otherwise then difficulties may arise with the final finish.

After fixing the vapor barrier, OSB panels or plywood are nailed, on which the finishing Decoration Materials(wallpaper, tiles, lining). To save money, if it is definitely decided to finish with clapboard or similar materials, you can use boards instead of sheet materials, they can be nailed at some distance from each other.

Advice. Exterior wall decoration can be carried out not only from the inside of the house, but also from the outside. That is, first they nail internal panels, and all further operations for laying cotton wool are carried out from the street.

This can be convenient if the house is not very large.

Insulation of internal walls is needed, most of all, for sound insulation, so there is no need to install a film.

To do this, soundproof materials are used, it can be the same mineral wool, foam boards, various combined materials.

Warming a frame house with your own hands is a responsible process, and when working with a ceiling, it is also not very convenient. It is best to carry out work while the roof is not yet fully ready, so it will be more convenient to work.

The rules are simple: the vapor barrier membrane is again applied, stretched from inside the house and attached to the ceiling beams.

Sheet material (plywood, OSB) or boards are installed on it (a distance of about 40 cm is maintained between the boards).

Mineral wool is laid on top, according to the same rules as in other cases. Overlapping previous joints (with an allowance). It is important to cover the entire ceiling, along with the planes that are located above the walls.

If the attic is not heated, then a vapor barrier film is not needed. Can be sheathed with sheet material.

Insulation of the ceiling is important, because if the insulation is not correct, warm air will very quickly leave the house through the top.

Roof insulation

It is of great importance if the attic will be heated and used as a living space. In other cases, work is not necessary, or it can be insulated to a minimum.

There are a number of subtleties that can help in the work:

The most convenient way is insulation from the outside: the insulation is easier to lay, the film is easier to stretch.

Immediately after installing the truss structure, it is recommended to attach a vapor barrier film, and not to her - to nail sheet material or boards.

Using a ladder, you can climb outside to the roof slopes and lay out the insulation.

Stretch the film from above and install the crate, and then the roof itself.

Features of insulation with various materials

In addition to mineral wool and analogues, apply different kinds heaters.

Styrofoam and similar materials

Styrofoam is difficult to lay, avoiding gaps between it and wooden frame, so you have to carefully foam all the defects. Such materials do not allow air to pass through, you need to carefully consider the ventilation of your home. Polyethylene films still need to be used, although the foam is not afraid of moisture, the vapor barrier membrane should protect the frame of the house.

Finally, polystyrene foam is very fond of rodents who make labyrinths in it, this must be taken into account.

Ecowool

This material, although it allows you to apply it manually, without special equipment, however, experts do not advise doing this.

Ecowool shrinks up to about 15% over time, so you will have to make some margin when applying it.

When applied by hand, it is almost impossible to achieve the same quality and final thermal insulation properties as when using a special tool.

Expanded clay

Often used to insulate either the floor or the ceiling, it is possible to insulate the ceilings between floors. A feature is the need for a good base on which the insulation is laid out. There should be no gaps, otherwise the expanded clay will fall out.

For the best effect, expanded clay is used in the form of the most crushed fraction, in combination with materials such as sawdust. In this case, all voids will be filled.

Finally

So, it’s not so difficult to insulate a frame house with your own hands, you won’t need step-by-step instructions for work. All work on all types of floors is carried out in approximately the same way.