Warming the ceiling from the inside - ways. How to insulate a concrete ceiling with thermal insulation materials How to insulate a ceiling with a concrete floor

13.06.2019

One of the problems in a private house is heat leakage through the ceiling. If in an apartment building from above warm apartment, then in our case overhead only cold attic or even just a street. How to insulate the ceiling from the inside in a private house, if for some reason it is not possible to do this from the attic?

Material selection

Let's start with the structure of the insulation. It will be multi-layered; we have to follow in sequence:

External vapor barrier insulation;
Crate for filling with heat-insulating material;
actual thermal insulation;
Internal vapor barrier;
Finally, the ceiling needs to be hemmed with any finishing material.

vapor barrier

As a vapor barrier, glassine is most often used - an inexpensive material with quite acceptable consumer properties. However, if you need additional insurance against leaks - the best choice there will be good old plastic wrap. It is absolutely impervious to water and has a service life of at least fifty years.

Vapor barrier sheets are laid with an overlap. If the ceiling is sloping (for example, in the attic), the film is laid in rows from the bottom up so that condensate cannot flow under the lower sheets. It is better to additionally glue the inner layer of the vapor barrier with adhesive tape. This will ensure absolute tightness.

Why are all these measures necessary? Worst enemy mineral and ecowool insulation - condensate. Wet mineral wool greatly reduces the thermal insulation qualities. And indoor humidity in winter is always much higher than outdoors (see).

Please note: if we insulate a reinforced concrete floor from below, upper layer vapor barrier is not needed. Between moisture-impermeable concrete and thermal insulation, there is simply nowhere for water to come from.

heat insulating material

Most often, two materials are used as insulation.:

Styrofoam. It's styrofoam. The slabs it is sold with are large enough; recommended thickness for temperate climate- 5 centimeters, for Siberia and the Far East - 10.

The main advantage is that this insulation is non-hygroscopic, it does not dampen. If so, with any fluctuations in humidity, the quality of the thermal insulation of the ceiling will not change (see).

Mineral wool (glass wool, ecowool, basalt wool and other variations on the same theme). The material is noticeably cheaper than polystyrene with the same degree of thermal insulation provided.

In addition, it is considered more environmentally friendly: mineral fiber does not emit anything into the atmosphere, and heated debates about possible harm to health do not subside about the properties of expanded polystyrene.

The debate about which material is better can also be endless. On any construction portal you can meet convinced adherents of both methods of insulation; Therefore, we will not impose a certain position on the reader.

Let's just say that the foam plastic changes properties over time to a lesser extent, not only in a humid environment: mineral wool caking over time. Even if perfect vapor barrier is provided.

If you choose expanded polystyrene plates as thermal insulation, the inner layer of vapor barrier is also useless. It is enough just to glue the seams between the plates with a wide adhesive tape (see).

Sometimes the foam is simply put on glue. From below it is covered with a layer decorative plaster- and the ceiling is ready.

crate

Two types of lathing are used: wooden and galvanized profile.

Wooden one is a little cheaper and a little easier to install. But the galvanized profile is not deformed by fluctuations in temperature and humidity, is not affected by the fungus and does not serve as food for insects.

Nuance: when it comes to insulating the ceiling from the inside wooden house- you can safely make a crate from a bar or slats. Indeed, what is the point of making a suspended ceiling stronger and more durable than walls and ceilings? Of course, it is worth treating the material for the crate with an antiseptic.

Binder

Here everything is in your hands. Most fast way hem the ceiling Wall panels from PVC. In addition, they are easy to wash.

However, drywall will give a smooth surface without seams; it is possible to build both a slatted ceiling and a suspended tiled one ... The choice of material is solely a matter of personal preference and the budget allocated for repairs.

Basic operations

As an example, consider the insulation of the ceiling from the inside in a private house for the case when overhead there are beams with a plank ceiling hemmed to them. The climate is temperate; we will be insulated with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

Armed with a stapler, we attach a plastic film to the ceiling. It will completely stop the flow of moisture to the boards from the room and extend the life of our ceiling. An overlap of a dozen centimeters is required.
We fill the crate. Hemming the ceiling will become PVC panels; a thin mounting rail is sufficient for them. But let's not forget about the thickness of the thermal insulation and take a bar 50x50.

We will fill it across the future panels with a step of 60 centimeters: in this case, the panels will not sag, and the mineral wool will not have to be cut in width. Most rolls are this size.

We fill the gaps between the bars with mineral wool. It is better to wear textile gloves and protect your eyes and nose: cotton wool fibers are volatile.

Again armed with a stapler, we hem the crate from below with a second layer of polyethylene. Additionally, we glue the joints of the canvases with adhesive tape: the greater the tightness we provide, the longer the insulation will retain its properties.
Finally, the last stage: we hem the wall panels from below. We will not focus on how this is done: installation methods have already been described hundreds of times.

Hemming the panels to the wooden crate is a more than simple task.

Conclusion

Our goal is achieved: the room is insulated from the inside. Winter is not to be feared. The downside was that we lost about six centimeters of ceiling height. Unfortunately, the victim was inevitable... Good luck with the repair!

Ceiling in heat exchange with environment takes the same part as the rest of the building envelope or premises. Therefore, the thermal insulation of ceilings is no less important than the insulation of walls and floors, especially in stone houses - warm air rises and gives off heat to the concrete floor, the high density and low thermal insulation qualities of which contribute to further transit of thermal energy to the outside - heat loss.

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation characteristics, so the problem of insulation wooden ceilings it is not so acute - more often it is performed with the aim of soundproofing the bases. And concrete in mass housing construction is used much more widely, so let's take a closer look at how to insulate a concrete ceiling in an apartment or private house.

In a multi-storey building, the ceiling is the floor of the apartment above or the technical floor, and in a one-story building it is the floor of the attic. Since it is technically much easier to insulate a concrete ceiling from the outside, during the construction and decoration of apartments in high-rise buildings This is achieved by insulating the floors. However, the degree of effectiveness of this operation does not always suit homeowners, and only residents of the upper floors can reconstruct the insulation layer from the outside - the rest, if necessary, perform additional insulation of the concrete ceiling from the inside to the existing external thermal protection of the ceiling base.

There are many technologies for performing this operation, they differ in the design of the insulating shell and the materials for the execution of thermal insulation, right choice the combination of which determines the effectiveness of insulation.

The two main schemes for thermal insulation of the ceiling from the inside are frame and frameless structures. The choice of scheme depends on the type of insulation, the height of the ceilings and the planned functionality of the mounted shell.

The frameless design allows you to equip the ceiling not only with thermal protection, but also, without losing height, with waterproofing. The condition for the success of this scheme is the use of rigid heat-insulating materials that are firmly mounted on the ceiling, followed by finishing.

The frame structure has high strength characteristics and therefore is used for the complex protection of the ceiling base - a multilayer shell with heat, hydro, sound and vapor barrier functions. In addition, the frame allows you to lay on the ceiling not only solid, but also fibrous heat-insulating materials. But this technology will reduce the height of the ceilings by a minimum of 7 cm, and this is the installation of not a multi-layer, but a one-two-functional shell.

Materials for thermal insulation of concrete floor slabs

Thermal insulation materials for ceiling applications, in addition to performing the main function - thermal protection, must also have the following characteristics:

low specific gravity;
environmental friendliness - the absence of emissions harmful to humans;
resistance to the formation of fungus;
sufficient heat resistance;
moisture resistance - neutrality to contact with water and steam.

According to the physical state, the heaters laid on the ceilings are divided into the following groups:

solid (including decorative polystyrene tiles);
fibrous;
sprayed.

Currently, there are many varieties of thermal insulation materials of organic and inorganic origin, used to insulate the bases of enclosing structures - from well-known and widely used (foam plastics) to exotic ones (coconut fiber), and their list is constantly updated with new developments.

Due to the individuality of some characteristics, not all heaters are suitable for use in housing. For example, slabs of pressed straw and reeds (straw and reeds) will not interest any of the owners of an apartment or a private house, despite the high thermal insulation characteristics, affordability and distribution in the decoration of agricultural buildings.

As an opposite example, we can cite insulation made from coconut fibers or natural cork - expensive materials, despite low demand due to the presence of many other types of thermal insulation on the market.

As a rule, the more exotic the material, the higher its price, even if the characteristics of the insulation are not outstanding, and the technology and the tool required for laying are traditional. Therefore, they prefer to arrange expensive thermal insulation by professionals in order to minimize the risk of damage and consumption of insulation.

Consider how you can insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling on your own, without going far beyond budget technologies.

Ways to insulate concrete ceilings from the inside

Consider several ways to insulate a reinforced concrete ceiling from the inside, starting with the simplest in execution, but allowing you to make a finish on top of the insulation.

Frameless thermal insulation of a concrete ceiling with foam plastic

For the thermal protection device of the ceiling base, any rigid type of foam is suitable - polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, polyvinyl chloride.

Important! Elastic types of foam (foam rubber), due to their hygroscopicity, are not used as a base insulation.

Since each variety also has subspecies, indicated by markings, you should choose a material with a minimum thermal conductivity value. In addition, it should be taken into account that foam plastics have a closed cellular structure that does not contribute to sound absorption, which makes them not the best materials for a simultaneous soundproofing device.

Foundation preparation

All bulges are cut from the concrete ceiling, after which the shells and cracks are primed, and after drying they are sealed with a cement leveling mixture. At this stage, it is possible to waterproof the ceiling with coating insulating agents or deep penetration compounds, which will reduce the consequences of flooding the apartment from a leak from above.

Depending on the choice of waterproofing mixture (bituminous, polymer-based), the ceiling base is prepared, primed, and waterproofed.

After the waterproofing on the ceiling has dried, taking into account the format of the selected material, the layout of the foam sheets is marked so that the insulation shell does not include small fragments or narrow stripes.

Temporary fixation and reinforcement of expanded polystyrene sheets

According to the markup, the foam sheets are fixed to the ceiling butt to each other and to the walls, using for this:

silicone sealant, if the waterproofing is made with a bitumen-based composition;
PVA glue of a pasty consistency, if the waterproofing is penetrating polymer material.

Glue is applied in a thick layer to 5 points of each sheet of insulation - in the corners and in the center, after which the foam is pressed to the base in place. Having finished laying all over the ceiling, the glue is given a day to dry.

After the adhesive has dried, a reinforcing mesh made of fiberglass is laid on top of the foam plastic, which is sold in rolls 1 m wide. The mesh is laid on a thin layer of PVA glue with a longitudinal overlap of the strips on each other and down on the walls 5 cm in size, avoiding bubbles and sagging.

Basic fixing of thermal insulation to concrete ceiling

Laying foam on the ceiling with glue is just a temporary fixation of it, which allows you to adjust the fragments in place during the layout process to create a continuous shell. The final fastening of the heat-insulating layer to the ceiling is made with plastic hollows-fungi, wedged anchor rods.

Markings are made on the sheets for fastening - in the corners and in the center, after which patches with a diameter of approximately 1 cm are cut out in the reinforcing mesh along the markings with small scissors to allow drilling concrete through the foam without the danger of winding the mesh around the drill.

Holes in concrete are drilled of such a diameter that the fungus freely enters it without a large gap. In each sheet, a hole is first drilled in the center, a fungus is installed in it, sinking the cap flush into the foam, and wedged with an anchor, after which the fragment is drilled and fastened in the corners. If for some reason the drill did not enter the concrete at the design site (it rested on the slab reinforcement), then drilling must be performed nearby, retreating a few centimeters.

As a result of the installation of thermal insulation sheets using this technology, a flat surface is obtained that does not need vapor barrier and is sufficiently reinforced to complete the ceiling finish - leveling with mixtures based on cement and gypsum, followed by painting or pasting with ceiling wallpaper.

Use in frameless construction of fibrous insulation

Instead of foam plastic, stone wool can be used in the same construction, but the complexity of the operation, if vapor barrier is also performed, in this case will be much higher, since it is difficult to temporarily fix the fibrous insulation on concrete until it is finally fixed.

Therefore, the sheet is applied to the ceiling, a steel scriber is made through it on the basis of the drilling mark, after which the insulation is removed and holes are drilled. Then the sheet is reinstalled in place, a plastic fungus is inserted through it into the hole, but the anchor is only baited without clogging. This is done with all sheets of insulation.

Then, taking out one fungus at a time, a vapor barrier is laid on the cotton wool - polyethylene is applied to the thermal insulation and the removed fungus is passed through it again into the hole, after which the anchor is hammered. As a result, the cap of the fungus presses already 2 layers to the ceiling - cotton wool and polyethylene.

Important! Longitudinal rows of fungi on concrete should be evenly spaced - subsequently, rails are attached to their hats with self-tapping screws for transverse mounting of siding or strip plastic decorative tiles on them.

Frame thermal insulation of a concrete ceiling with mineral wool

This method of performing thermal protection is more complicated and more expensive to perform, since the costs of the frame and vapor barrier are added to the costs of the insulation. In addition, the height of the ceilings should allow the frame to be mounted painlessly for the functionality of the room. And yet the frame method of thermal insulation of ceilings is also widespread.

For example, if the thermal insulation of the concrete floor of the second floor in a private house is not effective enough, it is necessary to insulate the concrete ceiling on the first floor. At the same time, the height of the ceilings of most private houses allows you to mount a multifunctional shell without any visible damage to the dimensions of the room.

Preparing the base for mounting the frame

In this case, the requirements for the evenness of the base are not high - the frame mounted in a horizontal plane neutralizes all irregularities. But make repairs concrete base it is still necessary - some elements of the frame will be attached to it. In addition, if there is plumbing and plumbing fixtures on the floor above, the possibility of waterproofing the ceiling should not be neglected along the way.

All exfoliated and worn coatings are removed from the ceiling, cracks and joints with walls are cleaned of old fillers, embroidered, after which the surface is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 4. After the primer dries, the cracks are sealed with mounting foam or other sealing agent, and the plane is rough leveled with a cement-based mixture - the mortar is filled with mortar and potholes are overwritten.

After curing and drying of the mixture, the ceiling is waterproofed with a bituminous compound or a penetrating waterproofing agent.

Frame installation

When used as a heater mineral or stone wool it is necessary to arrange a vapor barrier from the side of the room. For this purpose, a dense plastic film is quite suitable, which must be mounted on the frame after thermal insulation.

As a material for the frame, if the outer shell is drywall, you can use ud- and cd-steel profiles. If, however, it is planned to lay siding or strip plastic trim as a finish, then it is better to use wooden blocks treated with an antiseptic, for example, Antizhuk, and coated with liquid nitro-lacquer.

Using a laser level or a transparent hose with water under the ceiling along the perimeter of the walls, the starting line is marked - the outline of the future frame should lie on this line. The distance from the starting line to the ceiling should be equal to the thickness of the mineral wool insulation.

Important! If it is planned to obtain an additional effect in the form of noise protection from the thermal insulation device, then the thickness of the insulation must be at least 50 mm.

The installation of the frame begins with fastening the bars along the starting line - with self-tapping screws in plastic hollows installed in holes drilled in the wall. Then the intermediate elements of the frame are mounted - taking into account the format of the insulation, so that the joints of the sheets do not fall on the bars.

Laying thermal insulation

Sheets of cotton wool cover the surface of the ceiling, placing them between the frame and the base.

Having filled the ceiling area with insulation, another layer of vapor barrier is also laid under the frame - a plastic film. Polyethylene strips are laid overlapping each other with a width of 10 cm and fixed along the seams with a wide adhesive tape. Vapor barrier is necessary to protect the insulation from drops of condensate, since after getting wet, cotton wool loses its heat and sound insulation properties.

Important! Work on laying mineral wool insulation must be carried out in protective clothing and a respirator - the smallest particles of fibers are dangerous for the respiratory system and cause allergic reaction skin covers.

At this stage, the ceiling will be an insulated and vapor-insulated base, on top of which there is a frame made of steel profile or wooden bars.

Drywall is mounted on the profiles with the help of self-tapping screws with sealing of the seams and subsequent finishing. Siding or strip decorative plastic tiles are attached to wooden bars with small nails. Between the polyethylene layer and the finish coating there is a ventilation gap with a thickness of the cross section of a bar or profile, which is necessary for the evaporation of condensate.

Thermal insulation of a concrete ceiling with expanded polystyrene tiles

Polystyrene ceiling tiles are produced in the form of square sheets with a side length of 40, 50, 60 cm or rectangular panels of 60x30, 70x30, 70x40 cm format. The thickness of such tiles does not exceed 1 cm and depends on the type of expanded polystyrene - extruded material trim can be thick only 5 mm. By execution ceiling tiles can be smooth and embossed, ordinary white and colored laminated, solid and perforated, seam and seamless.

Tile white color allows you to paint in any color, but the composition of the paintwork should not be aggressive - all water-dispersion compositions are excellent. The specific weight of polystyrene tiles is very small and, depending on the variety, is 20-30 kg / m3, which indicates the absence of high requirements for bearing capacity detached base.

The use of this material allows you to achieve two goals: the thermal insulation of the ceiling and its decorative design. At the same time, the requirements for evenness of the ceiling to be lined are not too strict - differences in height up to 2-5 mm are allowed, depending on the adhesive composition used.

Important! If the material is designed for seam laying, that is, there is rust along the perimeter of the products, or each element contains a finished pattern, then deviations in the size of the tiles are not allowed, as this will lead to a distortion of the artistic structure of the coating.

Preparation of the ceiling base for tile insulation

To avoid the destruction of the polystyrene finish of the ceiling along with the peeling plaster, worn materials that have lost adhesion with concrete are removed from the base, the bulges are cut down and the joints between the floor slabs are cleaned. Then the ceiling is primed with a latex-based composition, and after the primer dries, seams, cracks and potholes are sealed, followed by leveling the surface with a cement-based composition. After the leveling layer has dried, if necessary, waterproof the ceiling with a coating method.

If a bitumen composition is used for waterproofing, then after it dries, the ceiling is ready for finishing with polystyrene tiles. When using penetrating compounds containing polymers, the dried mixture is easily processed. sandpaper to remove lumps from the surface, after which it is primed again with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 3.

On top of the dried waterproofing, the marking of the upcoming tile laying is carried out, taking into account its format and the location of lamps or chandeliers on the ceiling.

When arranging the cladding elements, you should choose an option that excludes the formation of gaps between the wall and the ceiling, which cannot subsequently be hidden under a decorative ceiling plinth.

Laying decorative polystyrene foam insulation

The tile sticker is made depending on the material of the base or waterproofing shell.

For the installation of decorative insulation on top of the bituminous mixture, silicone sealants can be successfully used, applying them to 5 points on the back surface of the tile - in the corners and in the center. If the finishing material is made of extruded polystyrene, that is, more dense, silicone is applied in stripes along the perimeter and diagonals.

On a ceiling lined with cement or gypsum mixture, tiles can be glued with the following compositions:

adhesive compositions based on polymers - "Titan", "Master";
"liquid Nails";
PVA - better pasty variety;
solution finishing putty comfortable consistency.

Polymer adhesives are designed for a surface with differences of no more than 2 mm. The rest of the compositions can be used for more significant defects in the base.

Ready-made adhesives are applied in accordance with the instructions, the finishing putty solution is applied after a trial installation of several tiles, which will show whether the mixture consistency needs to be corrected, and what ceiling defects can be hidden.

After the compositions have dried, cosmetic sealing of the tile joints is carried out and, if necessary, the polystyrene foam lining is painted.

The ceiling insulated in this way will reduce the heat loss of the room and effectively protect the base from condensation.

Conclusion

The listed methods of concrete ceiling insulation are only a small part of the technologies used. How to insulate a concrete ceiling in your area most effectively will be told by homeowners who have already completed this operation, and therefore know the advantages and disadvantages of the technology used and the materials used. After analyzing several of these reviews, you can choose the best option for yourself or develop an individual method, taking into account the omissions of consultants.

The main essence of the article

With insufficient efficiency of thermal insulation of the floor of the upper floor, insulation of the concrete ceiling is not a whim, but a necessity.
Effective thermal insulation can be performed without the use of expensive materials.
The choice of material and technology should be tied to the characteristics of the ceiling base.
The device of a multifunctional insulating shell on its own is real.
The combination of thermal insulation with decorative trim is rational.

Greetings experienced and novice home masters! This time we will look at how to reduce the heat loss of a house with a “cold” roof by installing insulation. As you know, more than 30% of the heat escapes through the roof if the roofing pie or ceiling does not have insulation, and this is not enough.

Technology Choice

Usually, one of two options is used to insulate the ceiling under a “cold” roof, namely:

installation of insulation on the ceiling inside the room (if the height of the ceilings allows it);
thermal insulation of the subfloor of the attic.

In the first case, only a rigid heat insulator is used - basalt wool mats or expanded polystyrene slabs. The attic floor is less demanding - mineral wool or glass wool in rolls, bulk materials (expanded clay, sawdust, etc.) will do.

Tools and materials

For preparatory work we will need:

wood putty, fire-retardant composition (for wooden floors);
deep penetration primer, cement putty (for concrete slab);
putty knife;
brush;
mounting foam and a knife.

To install thermal insulation from inside the room, we need to prepare:

electric drill with drills;
wooden slats or aluminum profiles + vapor barrier film and adhesive tape (for subsequent cladding);
glue + polyethylene nails with umbrellas and a rubber mallet (if you are going to make a stretch ceiling).

If you decide to insulate the floor from the side of the attic, then you need to stock up:

vapor barrier film and adhesive tape;
wooden bars;
nails and hammer.

Preparatory stage

First of all, properly prepare the base. At wooden floors, small gaps must be filled with wood putty, large gaps are foamed. Remove excess filler after hardening with a knife. Using a brush or sprayer, apply an antiseptic with flame retardant properties to the entire surface to be insulated.

Concrete ceiling needs cleaning decorative finishes, as well as base plaster, if it does not hold well. Small cracks should be deepened and expanded, sealed with putty, wide gaps should be filled with foam. If you plan to stick the insulation, do not forget to treat the floor surface with concrete - with a contact or a similar primer.

Hidden wiring must be hidden in the corrugated pipe. To ensure a tight fit plate insulation, in the material, you may have to make slots for wiring.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling with glue

If in the future it is planned to install stretch ceilings, you can not particularly “bother”, but simply stick a heat insulator on the ceiling.

This can be done as follows: we apply the adhesive on a sheet of heat-insulating material, and then press it tightly against the ceiling. As glue, you can use "liquid nails", mounting foam, or cement-based glue (kneaded according to the instructions and applied pointwise with a spatula, volumetric blotches).

Additionally, attach the heat insulator to the base with “fungi” - for this, use a drill with a 6 mm drill to prepare holes for fasteners (4 per sheet, retreating about 100 mm from the corners), and drive polymer nails with umbrella caps into them with a rubber hammer. The seams between the insulation boards should be foamed. It should turn out like this:

Installation of a heat insulator on the ceiling - frame method

If you are going to sheathe the ceiling sheet material or clapboard, we lay the thermal insulation between the slats of the frame. To install the frame, we need to perform the following steps:

1. prepare a lathing scheme (the installation step of the rails should be equal to the width of the polystyrene plate or be 30-40 mm less than the width of the basalt mat when insulated with mineral wool);

2. using a tape measure, level and cords, mark up;

3. attach wooden slats to the ceiling (by sinking the heads of self-tapping screws in wood) or an aluminum profile (using direct suspensions), the mounting pitch is 500 - 600 mm;

4. Carefully check with a level that all elements of the crate are located horizontally and in the same plane - you can stretch the transverse control cords in advance;

5. fill the gaps between the rails and the ceiling plate with a suitable heat-insulating material;

6. insert a sheet heat insulator by surprise, it can be additionally fixed by bending the shelves of direct suspensions;

7. if necessary, foam the seams between the elements;

8. install a vapor barrier - the membrane is fixed on wooden slats staples, and on aluminum - with double-sided tape.

We insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic

The general scheme for warming the attic space is as follows:

The wooden structure is covered with a vapor barrier membrane - film sheets, fastened with adhesive tape, are laid on the surface, strictly repeating its relief. First check if the lag height is enough to properly lay the selected insulation. If the thickness of the heat insulator is greater, additional bars are stuffed onto the logs.

Lay the rolled or slab material between the lags, the material should fit snugly, without voids, to the base. The structure of mineral wool and glass wool allows it to be mounted in a spacer, but the mats should not bend, the rolled material should not be rammed and strongly compressed. Fill the gaps around the foam plates with mounting foam. Next, rolled waterproofing is mounted, the counter-lattice is stuffed, and you can start laying the floor covering.

Backfill insulation

On top of the vapor barrier (plastic film or glassine is used), a thick layer of expanded clay or sawdust is laid. Expanded clay is resistant to fire and does not require processing, and sawdust should be laid in layers, treating each layer 100 mm high with fire - a bioprotective composition. Or sawdust is pre-mixed with clay, lime and a small amount of water - the resulting mass is resistant to fire and damage by rodents.

How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

Concrete ceilings can cause a lot of trouble for the owners of an apartment or a private house with reinforced concrete floors. The main problem is their ability to perfectly transmit noise from neighbors and poor heat-saving characteristics. The problem of noise from neighbors is faced only by apartment owners in high-rise buildings, but the problem of insulating a concrete ceiling affects all owners of both apartments and private houses. Therefore, further, we will talk about the insulation of such floors.

Options for arranging an insulating layer

The most important thing when creating a heat-saving layer will be the type of building. If this is a private house, then all work can be carried out from the side of the attic, and in a city apartment, this is possible only on the last, upper floors of buildings. But, usually it is the residents of these apartments who feel the need for this procedure.

In an apartment building, it will be necessary to insulate from the inside of the premises, and here, the choice of material will already be of great importance - it should be as thin as possible, and at the same time, retain heat very efficiently.

In private houses, it is possible to perform insulation work by laying a heat insulator in the internal cavities of the ceilings. Here you can use a lot various materials– from sawdust to the most modern heat-insulating coatings.

Material selection

It is possible to insulate a concrete ceiling with almost the same materials that are used for other types of buildings. The only difference will be that reinforced concrete floors not hollow, and it will not work to use the existing voids.

The main and most popular insulation, regardless of the type of construction, is mineral wool. It has many advantages over other types of insulating materials, but there is also a significant drawback - it is necessary to lay a sufficiently thick layer of mineral wool to ensure high-quality thermal insulation.

If the height of the room where the ceiling is supposed to be insulated is not too large, use mineral wool - not the most best idea. She will "eat" too much space under the ceiling. The only option when this parameter will not be of fundamental importance is the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor of the building. All work can be done from the outside of the ceiling, and this will not affect the existing height of the rooms.

The second, no less popular insulation, which is used with great success for the same purposes in city apartments and private houses, is polystyrene foam. It is laid in a much thinner layer, which does not reduce the height of the premises so much. It can also be used for outdoor installation.

All bulk insulation, like expanded clay, or mixtures of sawdust with various other materials, can only be used outside. Indoors, they cannot be used for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

Warming methods

The only difference in the methods is that some of the heat insulators can be mounted on a specially constructed frame, and some are laid on the outside of the ceiling, which is the floor in the upper room.

From inside the rooms, you can simply glue the foam tiles to the ceiling, immediately receiving both the decoration of the ceiling with a beautiful finishing material and a small heat-saving layer.

But such warming, as a rule, is not enough. More significant steps need to be taken. And in this, the same foam can help, but already of a greater thickness than decorative tiles.

Its advantage is that foam boards can be glued directly onto the ceiling using ordinary tile adhesive. After gluing, the foam is plastered over the grid, and finished with a finishing layer decorative coating. The method is inexpensive, but requiring fairly good plasterer skills for subsequent finishing.

If there are no such skills, you can use any heaters, like mineral wool. They are not just attached to the ceiling, but fit into a special frame. It has to be collected.

The assembly of the base is exactly the same as for any suspended ceiling system. First, a vapor barrier is laid in the frame base. The overlap of adjacent strips must be at least 10 centimeters. All joints of the material are glued with reinforced construction tape.

On top of the insulation, another passage is made with a vapor barrier, with gluing all joints and overlaps.

After that, a plasterboard finish can be mounted on the frame, or another finish can be used. One option would be plastic or wood-imitating panels.

When creating a heat-saving pillow from the outside, all work begins with laying a vapor barrier film or glassine. You can apply other vapor barriers.

The heater is next. Options are possible here, since on the outside, there is usually an attic, the height of which can be sacrificed and cheaper types of insulation can be used, which require laying in a thick layer.

If you plan to walk on an insulated surface, it is necessary to lay a log for the future floor. In the cells obtained after their installation, they are stacked in series - a vapor barrier film or other types of insulators, an insulating layer, again a vapor barrier.

On the slats of the crate, a subfloor is laid, which is subsequently covered with a finishing coating.

Conclusion

Insulating a concrete ceiling is not so difficult. The problems that arise are usually associated not with the process of insulation itself, but with the consequences of the construction of a heat-saving structure, if it is located indoors.

Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to insulate concrete floors from the outside, and not from inside the premises.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling - what are the options?

Concrete ceilings cause a lot of trouble, because their heat saving parameters are not very good, and they perfectly pass noise. Therefore, the owners of many apartments and houses with concrete floors have to think about the insulation and sound insulation of such a ceiling.

How to insulate the ceiling in a day and without repair

In winter, the insidious cold is ready to get into our house through the slightest available loophole. If you have already insulated the floor and walls, and the heat still disappears very quickly, then it's time to think about the ceiling.

People who happened to live on the top floors of Khrushchev houses are familiar with the problem of cold air flows from above - concrete floors with a worn-out expanded clay embankment on top are completely unable to hold the unfortunate degrees measured by the central heating system.

Thus, an uninsulated ceiling is a powerful screen for external elements and frost.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house:

Most often, the questions of ceiling insulation are asked by residents of private houses with autonomous system heating or counters with a centralized one: it is in such cases that it is easiest to calculate the costs of maintaining a favorable microclimate in the premises.

*It is worth noting that some autonomy at home allows you to choose from a large number options:

You can use any heat-insulating materials, from expanded clay to mineral wool;
Insulate according to inner surface ceiling and attic;
At the same time, make a final repair of the ceiling and do without it.

In general, in your own home, the choice of materials and techniques depends on the wishes of the residents and the size of their wallet. Consider possible options and choose the one that suits you:

Insulation with polyurethane foam tiles. This option combines both insulation and fine repairs, in addition, you can choose the design of the material at your discretion - now the ceiling tiles are presented on the market in full color scheme, with and without stucco.

Before starting work, you should carefully prepare the ceiling, level it and get rid of irregularities, putty cracks. How to do this is written in detail here: “Did you level the ceiling? Or how to level the ceiling with your own hands

The tile itself is attached with glue. Polyurethane foam has an extremely low thermal conductivity, so this little design trick will allow you to perfectly insulate.

Styrofoam and its modern analogue polystyrene foam- one of the cheapest materials that allow you to insulate without special expenses.

If you are thinking of setting up new design ceiling, for example, to make a multi-level plasterboard or stretch, then under the metal rails on the ceiling, whole sheets of foam can be nailed with the help of “umbrella” dowels.

Most affordable way ceiling insulation consists in creating a heat-insulating layer of bulk materials. To do this, it is enough to cover the attic with a waterproofing film, on top of which you can pour a layer of expanded clay, wood chips and sawdust, and even sand or earth.

It is important to consider the load that your ceiling can withstand - for beam ceilings it is better to use sawdust, with a layer thickness of 15-20 cm, concrete floors allow you to pour even the ground, the layer of which for complete thermal insulation should be at least 17 cm.

Classic way. If your task sounds: “How to insulate the ceiling in a day and without repair”, then this method will be the most suitable for you, since all work is done in the attic. The tight fit of the materials and the upward shift of the dew point prevent the formation of condensate on the insulated ceiling, in addition, it is this insulation that can last the maximum number of years without making additions and amendments.

You will need waterproofing, slats or construction stapler, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, board depending on the use of the attic.

If it is used as a living space or for storage, then it is better to use a board of 80 mm, on which you can move without fear, in other cases, 40 mm will be enough.

The sequence of actions for classic ceiling insulation:

Prepare your material first: measure the distance between the beams or the width of the floor slabs and cut the waterproofing and foam into pieces that can lie flat between the beams.

First, a waterproofing film is spread and attached to the beams with the help of rails or a stapler. At the same time, please note that in order to use the rails, the insulating film should be cut with an allowance of 4-5 cm.

Warming in the apartment:

The question of ceiling insulation in the apartment arises only when living on the top floor. At the same time, there are much more problems than in a private house: equipping an attic for municipal services is an expensive pleasure, and hardly anyone will allow you to create mounds from cheap materials.

However, in the houses of the Khrushchev era, sand, expanded clay, construction debris were previously poured into the attics., which from time to time became dilapidated, rotten and began to let the winter cold into the apartments. It is quite possible to use this by selecting the same material.

The main ways to insulate ceilings in apartments are:

The use of foam plastic for modern hinged and stretch ceiling;
Polyurethane tiles and molding;
Contacting public utilities.

However, there is another tricky way., which is often used in Soviet times and undeservedly forgotten now. The bottom line is the rough repair of the apartment with a clapboard.

As you know, this material, which is gradually acquiring a second life in the form of a European version, is attached to a crate, under which fiberglass or mineral wool, up to 7 centimeters thick, can be laid.

Consider the fact that the old-fashioned way of insulation with clapboard lining will lower your ceiling by 8-10 cm - with a wall height of 2.5 m or less, this is too much.

There are plenty of ways to insulate, their choice is directly related to the floor materials, place of residence and financial capabilities.

*On a note: The most reliable and durable is the classic method of insulation using mineral wool and foam.

How to insulate the ceiling

Consider all the ways to insulate the ceiling - in a private house and apartment. We will tell you what materials to use. Let's remember the undeservedly forgotten method,

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house: insulation rules, materials and methods

An example of ceiling insulation in a house

In the conditions of the Russian winter, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is far from the last issue. To save on heating costs, it is important to minimize the heat loss that occurs through all building envelopes of the house - windows, walls, doors, ceiling. Homeowners try to install high-quality windows and doors, they insulate the walls, but they often forget about the ceiling. Meanwhile, up to 20% of heat can escape through this enclosing structure!

Everyone who remembers school physics lessons and knows that warm air rises according to natural laws, and then it comes into contact with the cold surface of an uninsulated ceiling. As a result, condensation forms, that is, the humidity of the air in the upper part of the room increases. Of course, this does not benefit the health of the household, because dampness can provoke the formation of mold. Therefore, the issue of insulation should be puzzled by every owner of a private house.

General rules for insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling and other enclosing structures is a labor-intensive, but necessary measure. The result of this effort will be comfortable temperature in the house at minimal cost for heating.

Here are the general rules to consider when deciding how best to insulate the ceiling in the house:

The insulation material must be environmentally friendly.
Ceiling insulation should not contribute to the spread of fire in case of fire.
By reducing heat loss, the selected material should not have a significant impact on the processes of natural vapor circulation occurring in the house.
Moisture should not get on the insulating material.

Materials that can be used for insulation

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

When looking for materials that can be used to insulate the ceiling in a private house, several effective solutions are possible:

Expanded clay. This is a loose insulation, a lightweight, absolutely non-combustible material that is made on the basis of clay. The material is environmentally friendly, not afraid of moisture, has good thermal insulation characteristics, rodents and pests do not start in it.
Mineral wool. This is perhaps the most popular option for insulation, has excellent thermal insulation qualities. The disadvantages include hygroscopicity, this material should be carefully protected from moisture.
Ecowool. Cellulose-based material, environmentally friendly, has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Styrofoam. Lightweight polymer material. Fireproof, easy to use, not afraid of moisture.
Penoizol. This is a porous polymer material for insulation with an unlimited service life.

Ways to insulate the ceiling in the house

The choice of material is also connected with the method that will be used for insulation. Warming can be done in two ways:

It should be noted that both methods are able to provide a decent level of insulation, so you need to choose the one that will be more convenient to perform.

Methods differ in technology and types of materials used. In order not to be mistaken when answering the question, how to insulate the ceiling is better, it is worth remembering an immutable rule: if insulation is made from the inside, then a vapor-permeable insulation should be chosen. In the event that the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic or outside the private house, then a material with vapor-tight properties should be purchased.

How to perform insulation from the inside of the room?

Ceiling insulation with foam

As a rule, the insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is combined with the construction of suspended or stretch ceilings. In this case, the insulation is placed in the space between the ceiling plate and the installed coating.

When insulating the ceiling of the house from the inside of the room, most homeowners choose mineral insulation, which is available in the form of rolls or mats.

If you plan to arrange in the house dropped ceilings, then first they assemble a frame from a metal profile for fixing drywall (or other material that is planned to sheathe the ceiling). Then, layers of insulation are glued in the space between the profiles.

Advice! It is convenient to use tile adhesive for sticking mineral insulation, it sets quickly and holds the material well.

In the event that stretch ceilings are installed, the frame will have to be assembled specifically for laying the insulation. It is convenient to do this from a bar.

Advice! Under no circumstances should mineral wool be compacted during installation, since its heat-insulating properties depend on the presence of air gaps between the fibers.

A separate issue is the installation of lamps. The point is that even modern lamps they heat up a little during operation, and the presence of a heater on the ceiling does not allow heat to escape freely. As a result, the lamps burn out quickly. Therefore, you should either cut out the insulation in the area of \u200b\u200bthe lamp, or leave an air gap between the insulation layer and the ceiling sheathing material. The first method reduces the effectiveness of insulation, and the second requires a significant lowering of the ceiling level.

Advice! There is another way to solve the problem with lamps - do not use recessed ones, but install the most ordinary chandeliers and sconces.

Ceiling insulation from the attic

This option is the most efficient. Consider how you can insulate the ceiling from the outside of the room? Almost any type of insulation is perfect here. However, if it is decided to use mineral wool, then a layer of vapor barrier film should be laid in front of it.

When using layers of mineral wool or foam, the material is placed in the gaps between the bars of a wooden frame. When using polystyrene, the joints should be sealed with mounting foam.

If the attic is planned to be used, then a floor should be made on top of the laid insulation by performing a screed or arranging the floor on logs.

So, taking up the insulation of the ceiling in a private house with your own hands , First of all, you should decide which side of the ceiling will be insulated. Then you can choose a heater from the options above.

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house with your own hands from the outside and from the inside: photo and video

How to insulate the ceiling in a private house - choose suitable material, we insulate the ceiling from the outside and from the inside with our own hands, guided by the instructions, photos and videos

/ How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

How to insulate a concrete ceiling?

Options for arranging an insulating layer

In private houses, it is possible to perform insulation work by laying a heat insulator in the internal cavities of the ceilings. Here it will be possible to use a lot of different materials - from sawdust to the most modern heat-insulating coatings.

Material selection

It is possible to make insulation with almost the same materials that are used for other types of buildings. The only difference will be that reinforced concrete floors are not hollow, and it will not work to use the existing voids.

If the height of the room where the ceiling is supposed to be insulated is not too large, using mineral wool is not the best idea. She will "eat" too much space under the ceiling. The only option when this parameter will not be of fundamental importance is the thermal insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor of the building. All work can be done from the outside of the ceiling, and this will not affect the existing height of the rooms.

All bulk insulation, like expanded clay, or mixtures of sawdust with various other materials, can only be used outside. Indoors, they cannot be used for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

Warming methods

From inside the rooms, you can simply glue the foam tiles to the ceiling, immediately receiving both the decoration of the ceiling with a beautiful finishing material and a small heat-saving layer.

But such warming, as a rule, is not enough. More significant steps need to be taken. And in this, the same foam can help, but already of a greater thickness than decorative tiles.

Its advantage is that foam boards can be glued directly onto the ceiling using ordinary tile adhesive. After gluing, the foam plastic is plastered over the grid, and finished with a finishing layer of decorative coating. The method is inexpensive, but requiring fairly good plasterer skills for subsequent finishing.

If there are no such skills, you can use any heaters, like mineral wool. They are not just attached to the ceiling, but fit into a special frame. It has to be collected.

The assembly of the base is exactly the same as for any suspended ceiling system. First, in the frame base,. The overlap of adjacent strips must be at least 10 centimeters. All joints of the material are glued with reinforced construction tape.

On top of the insulation, another passage is made with a vapor barrier, with gluing all joints and overlaps.

After that, a plasterboard finish can be mounted on the frame, or another finish can be used. One option would be plastic or wood-imitating panels.

When creating a heat-saving pillow from the outside, all work begins with laying a vapor barrier film or glassine. You can apply other vapor barriers.

On the slats of the crate, a subfloor is laid, which is subsequently covered with a finishing coating.

Conclusion

Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to insulate concrete floors from the outside, and not from inside the premises.

The need to insulate the concrete ceiling from the inside often occurs among the owners of the upper floors of buildings with flat roof. If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from the side of the attic, then this the best way keep warm in the apartment.

Multi-storey buildings in cities traditionally have interfloor floors made of concrete slabs. Some private houses have the same floors, based on the foundation or its continuation - the basement, where utility rooms for various purposes are located.

Floor slab- ceiling and floor at the same time apartment buildings. The slabs rest on load-bearing walls, the ceiling is covered with several slabs. The sealing of the seams between the slabs and the places where the slabs rest on the walls is cracking: either due to the shrinkage of the building, or the poor work of the builders. Part of the heat leaves the apartments precisely through the joints of the plates: wall or ceiling.

Homes in need overhaul, usually insulated outside by thermal coat method. This method is applicable for insulating the ceiling from the inside. Having some building skills, you can perform the insulation of the ceiling from the inside yourself.

Houses that were built 20-30 years ago were designed to keep the house warm with excessive consumption of thermal energy. This is due to the fact that gas and electricity were cheap, and therefore the requirements for thermal conductivity of building panels were low. But the days of cheap energy consumption are over, houses still function with heat losses, for which the owners pay.

Natural desire to reduce heat loss - insulate the building. There are enough ways and materials for this.

Recommendation. How to determine the number of sheets of insulation? To do this, you need to know the geometric dimensions of the ceiling and the dimensions of the purchased insulation sheets. Make a drawing of the ceiling on a scale (a sheet of notebook in a box will do) and mark the layout of the sheets on a scale. Try options with less waste. It is advisable to start from the central axis, so symmetry will be observed.

But if putty is supposed on top of the material, this condition is not necessary.

In the course of the work that you will now see, decide what tool and material you need.

1. Ceiling preparation. Remove loose plaster, seal cracks and cracks with cement mortar. Apply primer in two coats perpendicular to each other.

2. Ceiling leveling: with a thin layer of putty, if the ceiling is even, or immediately after priming, level the ceiling with a beam of 50 x 50 or 50 x 70 mm along the location of the plates and with a distance so that the joint falls on the central axis of the beam.

The primer is applied with a roller or brush. If the ceiling is even and covered with a thin layer of putty, then notches are made with a spatula, cleaned and primed with a spray gun: this is how dust is additionally blown off the ceiling, and the primer under pressure penetrates deeper into the pores of the concrete slab.

3. Then apply a sheet of insulation, mark the borders of the sheet and apply a layer of 1-2 mm KNAUF Sevener plaster-adhesive mixture and smooth with a comb trowel.

4. To a prepared place glue the sheet.

On the second and subsequent sheets at the joints on the end apply glue, we apply and try to the panel is firmly attached to the ceiling, and to the panel, leaving no gap. Then we fix each panel with plastic umbrellas in the corners and center of the panel with 75 mm self-tapping screws. Umbrellas should be slightly sunk into the surface of the panel, and the recesses should be leveled with a mixture. Then we prepare the surface for reinforcement with rolled mesh. Grid width 1m, apply a layer of glue on the foam from wall to wall.

5. We impose a grid on the putty. Glue, iron with a spatula.

6. After reinforcing with a mesh, perform putty with a mixture of "Knauf Finish". This work is done by craftsmen. After complete drying - grouting the entire surface of the ceiling with a special plank with mesh No. 120.

Summary of work:

Done ceiling soundproofing. A damping layer of putty is applied between the ceiling and the foam;
Ceiling insulated with styrofoam 20 mm thick;
The ceiling is painted with moisture resistant paint. This means that the insulation is protected from moisture.

The second option for insulating the ceiling along the crate of wooden beams will fit when the height of the ceiling allows it. The height of the beam will be added. You can use another 12 mm insulation panel ISOTEX Alaska. These panels, as stated on the packaging, are seamless. Once installed, no additional cladding is required.

They are given instructions on how and with what to fasten, but only professionals can do the work with these panels. There are also standard methods of insulation - suspended ceiling systems, where insulation is laid in the gap between the ceilings.

Ceiling insulation in the basement of an apartment building

The choice of insulation method depends on the purpose of the basement:

Premises for storage of agricultural products;
Placement of thermal and sanitary equipment;
Arrangements for gyms, billiard rooms;
Premises for other purposes.

Of these, it is necessary to designate: heated and unheated cellars. This is important for residents of the first floors of apartment buildings. As a rule, residents isolate concrete plates floors with cellars additional thermal insulation from the floor. It is not only efficient, but also cheaper.

In most cases, it is necessary to open the floors before cement screed, eliminate defects (potholes, cracks); you can additionally pour a thin layer of self-leveling cement mortar, and after hardening, make a substrate of Parkolag heat-insulating material from ICOPAL - a Finnish heat-insulating substrate for laminate, linoleum, parquet.

This substrate is laid on a flat surface of a cement screed without waterproofing and vapor barrier, because the bottom layer of the substrate has micro gaps with the floor and this achieves ventilation between the laminate and the concrete floor.

In another case, in the basements of some houses, storage facilities for agricultural products. In addition to maintaining certain temperature, such cellars must be dry so that the products are stored longer. Warm air, rising up, meets a barrier in the form of a cold cement slab, where it cools to the “dew point” on its surface and falls in the form of droplets from the ceiling. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to prevent contact of warm air with the stove. Arrangement of ventilation with adjustment temperature regime will solve this problem, but we need to see what energy consumption occurs in this case.

A simple "ventilator" device, natural ventilation, directs the convection flow in the right direction and does not allow air vapor to be deposited on the surface of the plate. Another thing is maintaining the temperature. This is where it is necessary to insulate the ceiling, and possibly the entire basement room, in order to increase the temperature inside. The method of insulation is not new - the same as for walls:

Additional beams are attached to the ceiling, from wall to wall: edged board 20 mm thick and 100 mm wide, impregnated with an antiseptic solution, is attached to the ceiling with a rib using corners along the entire length with a distance of 50-60 cm between them.
The junction points to the ceiling are foamed with mounting foam. Between the beams prepared in this way, a rolled insulation is laid, then the vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler, and the seams are glued.
Then a gasket rail 10-15 mm thick is nailed along the beams.
They cover sheets of GKL or GKVL "Knauf", you can use moisture-resistant plywood and sew it to the rails.

You can use a stainless metal profile by attaching it to the ceiling on suspensions and also laying thermal insulation, followed by filing GKL.

Insulation of the concrete ceiling in the basement of a private house

In the basements of private houses they equip additional premises various uses. Warming of storage rooms for agricultural products is the same as for the basements of apartment buildings. Another thing is when basements are insulated in order to provide additional space for life activities.

Such premises, as a rule, are always heated. They are thermally insulated when the basement is located under a terrace, garage or other unheated premises. The method of insulation is the same as for apartments with an attic floor, if it is not possible to perform insulation from the outside.

Advice. Properly organized ventilation of the room helps to avoid the formation of condensate. Try to leave gaps between insulating materials, use membrane-type films to arrange a vapor barrier.

Insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house

If it is possible to insulate the ceiling from above, then the scheme is as follows.

From the side of the heated basement, in order to preserve heat, it is recommended insulate walls, and the ceiling is more insulated for noise insulation, so high-density foam is attached to the ceiling with an adhesive solution. Extruded polystyrene (XPS) boards can also be fastened. This material has a dense structure and high thermal and sound insulation properties.

In addition to the above methods, a more expensive method may be suitable - application of a polyurethane foam (PPU) layer on the insulated surface. Without special equipment, high-quality foam formation components, mixing and application technology, it is impossible to make thermal insulation on your own.

So, in order to successfully insulate your basement, determine the cause of heat loss, the location of the leak, and the formation of condensation in the insulation.

Attention! The first sign that the basement has poor thermal insulation is the appearance of bad smell in an apartment on the lower floors. This is manifested by the deposition of dampness on carpets lying on the floor. Mold can form, which will negatively affect your health.

It is urgent to correct the situation. For basement insulation, please contact specialized construction organizations. The specialist will determine the method of thermal insulation of a particular room. Additional waterproofing or installation of drainage systems may be required. This will be determined by a specialist from a company engaged in complex work on thermal insulation and ventilation of premises. Only professional approach to this problem will reduce the cost of these works. ( 2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)