Overlapping attic on wooden beams with insulation. How to insulate the ceiling of a cold attic - the better to insulate

  • 20.06.2020

Attic spaces, the frame of which is presented in the form of wooden trusses, are correctly referred to as "cold". These objects do not stand out for special resistance compared to reinforced concrete structures but they have their own merits.

Basically, they come down to the great possibilities of using heat-insulating materials. Classic attic floor wooden beams it is equipped with a heater with an ordinary carpentry tool, in contrast to reinforced concrete, where special equipment is needed.

Insulation attic floor, in addition to insulation, it requires the installation of a competent vapor barrier and hood that prevent the formation of mold and fungus. And if you follow the technology correctly when installing the insulating material, then air exchange will be guaranteed.

The design of the attic directly depends on the parameters of the building and the purposes involving the use of this room. The under-roof space is assigned the role of a kind of air gap separating warm heated rooms from a cold roof.

At the same time, the floor in the attic room performs two tasks:

insulating. In the attic of the house, the air temperature is almost the same as the street indicators of degrees. In this case, the floors have an insulating function, thereby preventing the penetration of cold air into the living quarters.

Carrier. In most cases, the overlap along the wooden beams between the attic space and the upper floor of the house, as well as the walls, has a load-bearing function. In this regard, it must be reliable and durable, as people move along it, utensils are stored or any equipment is placed.

Therefore, in order to know the allowable load on attic floors, it is necessary to make a calculation. Then, based on their results, draw up a project from which it will be seen how to properly insulate the attic floor in the building.

The choice of material for insulation

The attic insulation technique is simple, since the material is laid directly on the floor, in the gap between the rafters and the wooden floor beams. If you plan to use the attic as an attic, then you need to insulate the roof.

To insulate the floor between the beams in the attic, several types of heaters are used:

  • Mineral wool.
  • Styrofoam.
  • Styrofoam.
  • Sawdust.
  • Expanded clay.
  • Foam.

Consider each warming product in more detail.

Mineral wool insulation

In order to save heat, the material must be placed between steam and waterproofing films. Vapor barrier protects against moist air masses that form in residential premises near the ceiling, especially at the junction with walls. The second layer protects the wool from water ingress from the roof through microcracks and holes in the roof.

They insulate the attic of the house most often from the side of the floor, rather than from the ceiling of the lower floor. For this, mineral wool is a reliable, low-cost insulating material with high compression, which allows covering the surface not only of the floor, but also of beams of various shapes. Such insulation is sold in rolls or plates of different thicknesses.

At the same time, it has the following advantages:

  • budget cost.
  • Ease of installation.
  • Rodents do not start in such a heater.
  • High fire safety material.
  • The ability to isolate any uneven surface.

At the same time, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to take protective measures: wear tight clothing, work with glasses and protective gloves and it is also advisable to use a respirator.

Styrofoam

Insulation of the attic space with foam plastic is a good option for converting it into an attic, suitable for year-round use. Such a material has a low thermal conductivity, as it is produced in the form of foamed air granules pressed into plates.

During installation, the foam must be cut in such a way that the plates fit snugly between the attic floors. Any gaps and cracks become "bridges" for the penetration of cold, and thereby significantly degrade the quality of insulation.

At the same time, it is necessary to observe the distance between the foam plastic plate and the waterproofing film of at least 2-3 cm. It is recommended to use it as a heater with a thickness of 70 mm, and in regions with a harsh climate - 100 mm.

Attention! When installing a vapor barrier film, you need to pay attention to the fact that it is facing the insulation with the right layer, according to the instructions. Otherwise, the opposite effect will be produced: all the steam will be directed towards the insulating material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

When insulating the ceiling of a residential building along attic floors, for many builders this material is considered the best option. This insulation does not cause difficulties during installation, it can be laid under any overlap of beams.

It also saves space, since you can get by with two to three times less thickness than using the same mineral wool. Extruded polystyrene foam is different in appearance, since it is produced by different manufacturers. To insulate attic floors, the density of such a material should be about 32-34 kg / m, and its thickness should be from 40 to 100 mm.

And also manufacturers of polystyrene foam produce curly elements that lay out complex fragments in the attic floor. With this insulation it is convenient to carry out installation in two layers: the first is laid between the attic floors, and the second layer is applied end-to-end along the bottom row, overlapping the wooden beams.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is that it is combustible. To reduce the fire hazard, you can lay mineral wool with expanded polystyrene, or add antipyrine.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay for the attic of the house is traditional method thermal insulation of the technical floor. This material is poured between wooden floors with a layer thickness of at least 150 mm. Such a mass is universal remedy, capable of insulating floor structures, and it can also be used as thermal insulation in conjunction with other bulk materials.

Attention! Expanded clay is a fairly light insulation, but when a thick layer is applied, the bearing surface of the floor will carry a large load.

Thermal insulation is best carried out at the construction stage of the building, since it is easy to waterproof the ceilings of the rooms under the attic and provide for an exhaust hood.

To do this, a vapor barrier film is covered on the ceiling to protect the expanded clay layer from getting wet. It is not recommended to pour it directly on the floor boards for another reason: during the operation and operation of the premises, a lot of dust is released, which penetrates into the living rooms.

Sawdust

Sawdust is a product of lumber processing in the woodworking industry. This is the cheapest insulation for attic floors, since you can buy sawdust at any sawmill for free. Thus, sawdust is now, as an option, a reliable heat insulator in attic spaces.

On a note! Sawdust are of organic origin, therefore, they are completely harmless to human health. Since ancient times in Russia, sawdust mixed with clay has been used as a heater in attics.

Sawdust has the following advantages:

  1. Low cost insulation. Probably, the popularity of such a heater lies precisely because of this factor: its cost is almost equal to the consumption during transportation.
  2. Safety for human health. wood shavings and sawdust does not cause skin irritation, allergies, poisoning, which cannot be said with full confidence about modern heaters.
  3. Low thermal conductivity. Unlike wood, chips have a porous structure, so they have an underestimated heat conductivity.
  4. Easy installation. To form a heat-insulating layer in the attic floors, no special skills are required. You just need to mix sawdust with clay or lime, and then pour it into the space between the attic floors.

The only significant drawback is the fire hazard of the material, despite the mixture with other non-combustible substances.

Foam

Recently, two types of insulating material have become popular for attic floor insulation: blown wool and ecowool. The latter material consists of 80% cellulose fibers produced from waste paper, and 20% of additives, which are fire-fighting and antiseptic components.

Such a material has low thermal conductivity, it is very light, and similar to ordinary mounting foam. Both types of insulation are usually sprayed on boards between wooden beams, but sometimes ecowool is used in granules in a friable state. In this case, this mixture, as an option, is simply poured between the floor beams and compacted.

vapor barrier

The vapor barrier film protects the wooden floors of the beams from moisture formed in the air of residential premises. In addition, it protects the floors from the appearance of mold and fungus in the heat-insulating material.

Regardless of how the attic floor is made, the vapor barrier for the floor should form a continuous carpet that prevents the penetration of condensate. Particular attention should be paid to the joints with walls, where there is a high probability of condensate penetration. To do this, the covering film is overlapped and its edges are glued with adhesive tape.

Warming technology

For correct application heater, follow the step-by-step instructions:

Step #1. Inspect and, if defects are found, correct them. Treat boards and timber with antiseptics and fungicides.

Step #2 Lay out the vapor barrier material, seal all gaps with mounting tape.

Step #3 Lay out (pour) insulation into the openings of wooden floors on the floor.

Step #4 Pay special attention to the joints between the plates of insulating material. Apply additional insulation if necessary.

Step #5 Lay the waterproofing film with an overlap, fasten the joints with mounting tape.

Step #6 Separately install a heater on ventilation duct, chimney pipes in the form of basalt wool, perlite, and it is desirable to install a special corrugation on top.

Installation of wooden beams of the attic floor

Attic ceilings are designed to separate living rooms from the under-roof space. They do not allow cold air to pass through, so their main task is their thermal insulation. And also various equipment is often installed in the attic.

In this regard, another important task is to create a solid foundation that can withstand this load. Thus, the safety of people, their comfortable living, as well as the durability of the structure depend on the quality arrangement of the wooden floor.

Attic flooring on wooden beams - standards, requirements

According to the requirements of SNiP 31-02, attic floors must withstand thermal, statistical, acoustic and fire conditions. In addition - to be energy-saving, therefore, reliable thermal insulation should be installed on the floors.

When installing an attic floor on wooden beams, all sanitary and hygienic requirements must be strictly maintained. When erecting a frame, it is necessary to build a structure, and then insulate the attic floor. At the same time, the same temperature should be maintained between the lower part of the attic and the living room. The difference in indicators in degrees according to the standards is allowed no more than 4˚С.

For the structural elements of the attic, a dry, seasoned beam with a section of 100 × 150 or 200 × 250 mm should be used, while the humidity in it is allowed no more than 20-30%. The distance between the supporting beams depends on the load, but usually it is taken at intervals of 3 to 6 meters. In addition to the bearing load, wooden floors need an ultimate margin of safety.

It must be borne in mind that the indicator of the smallest load on such load-bearing beams is 100 kg / sq. m. And the period of trouble-free operation of wooden floors according to the standards is 60 years. It is due to the fact that the wood is affected by fungus and insects, as well as a change in the strength of the beams under the influence of possible condensate.

More about regulatory requirements on attic floors, watch the video:

In particular, the joints between the rafters and the wall, as well as the supporting beams of the ceiling, should be protected with insulating material. Subject to all these conditions, the house will serve you faithfully for a long time.

The attic floor separates the heated part of the building from the cold part. Choosing the right material and thickness of the insulator means reducing heat loss and saving material costs in heating season. Let's talk about the insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams with your own hands.

Construction of a wooden attic floor

The load-bearing elements in the attic wooden floor are beams. They are made from coniferous wood. The size of the section of the beams is taken according to the calculation for the load that the element perceives. O correct calculation we told you about wooden floor beams in the article "How to make a calculation of wooden floor beams".

For each specific climatic conditions and depending on the ability of the material to resist heat transfer, according to the heat engineering calculation, its own value of the thickness of the heat insulator is obtained.

Scheme of insulation of the attic floor: 1 - log; 2 - cranial bars; 3 - board shield or boards; 4 - vapor barrier; 5 - counter-lattice for the ventilation gap; 6 - insulation; 7 - clean floor; 8 - ventilation gap

The black floor of wooden shields or boards is mounted on cranial bars. Next, a membrane-type vapor barrier is laid, a heater is laid on it, which is covered with another layer of the membrane.

If the attic is in use, a clean floor is laid on top. If not, then running boards (min. 40 mm thick) are laid on the beams. All wooden elements are antiseptic. To ventilate wooden structures, when laying a clean floor, a gap is left between it and the insulation.

The choice of material for insulation

Bulk materials

Expanded clay

It is possible to insulate attic floors with bulk materials, which include expanded clay. It has relatively light weight(250-600 kg / m 3) and high resistance to heat transfer. Ease of installation and relative cheapness determine the choice of this material.

Vermiculite

Expanded vermiculite is obtained by heating the vermiculite rock to a temperature of 700 ° C, which at the same time increases in volume by 25 times. Its thermal conductivity is from 0.13 W / m K, and the volumetric weight is up to 200 kg / m 3.

Perlite

Expanded perlite also belongs to loose heat-insulating materials. The perlite rock is crushed and fired to obtain a porous structure. Expanded perlite is environmentally safe, non-flammable and bioresistant, has high thermal insulation properties (0.052 W/m K). Its volumetric weight is 160-250 kg/m 3 .

piece materials

Piece insulating materials are produced in the form of: sheets, rolls, plates, mounting shells and segments. To insulate the attic floor, slabs and rolls are most often used. At the same time, a roll-type insulation is preferable, since it does not leave butt joints, which slightly worsen the resistance to heat transfer.

Basalt wool

Mineral wool slabs and rolls of basalt fibers are the most popular heat-insulating material in housing construction. It is made from crushed and melted basalt by blowing. Basalt wool has a low thermal conductivity (0.32-0.048 W / m K), low volumetric weight. This material is bioresistant, environmentally friendly and relatively inexpensive.

glass wool

Glass wool in its characteristics is very close to mineral wool. It is also obtained by melting source material, which in this case is cullet. Glass wool has longer threads, greater chemical resistance and strength, lower cost than mineral wool.

It is produced in the form of plates, mats, rolls, reinforced and with a reflective layer. The volumetric weight of glass wool is from 25 to 200 kg / m 3, heat absorption - 0.035-0.045 W / m K. The disadvantage of fiberglass is the need for personal protection during installation.

Styrofoam

To plate heaters also applies to expanded polystyrene (styrofoam). This is a cheap, lightweight, moisture-resistant material with good thermal insulation properties. In private housing construction, it is often abandoned due to rodent damage and low resistance to high temperatures.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) has good insulation properties, is less flammable than simple polystyrene foam, but releases toxic substances when burned.

polyurethane foam

Plate polyurethane foam (foam rubber) has a high resistance to heat transfer (0.029-0.041 W / m K) and low volumetric weight (30-80 kg / m 3). Rigid types of this material are used in construction. The sprayed polyurethane foam creates a continuous insulation of the surface, both thermally and hydro. It is also resistant to temperature extremes and durable in operation (up to 20 years).

Foam glass

Foam glass is a type of glass that has a cellular structure. It has low thermal conductivity (0.04-0.08 W / m K), water resistance, high strength and fire safety. The percentage of foam glass porosity reaches 80-95%. The volumetric weight varies from 100-200 kg/m 3 .

Peat slabs

Peat slabs belong to organic heat-insulating materials. They are made from young sphagnum moss using a wet and dry method. Under the influence of temperature, the peat fibers stick together. Peat slabs are divided into ordinary and moisture resistant. Their volumetric weight is 170-300 kg / m 3, the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.05-0.07 W / m K.

Fiberboard

Fiberboards are made from wood fiber, which is first mineralized and then mixed in the required proportion (cement - water). Heat-insulating boards have a lower volumetric weight (300-350 kg/m 3) and thermal conductivity (0.085-0.95 W/m K) than a structural fiberboard.

It is quite affordable to make a fibrolite mixture yourself and lay it directly in place. It is possible to pre-make slabs from it using a special technology in the formwork right size and then mount them on the floor.

reeds

As a heat-insulating material, reeds are also used, which is practically the cheapest. It is made from pressed reed stalks sewn together with steel wire.

The volumetric weight of reed is 175-250 kg / m 3, the heat absorption coefficient is 0.05-0.08 W / m K. Its disadvantages are low fire resistance and biostability, high water absorption and damage by rodents.

Ecowool

Ecowool (cellulose wool) refers to environmentally friendly heat-insulating materials. It is made from recycled cellulose raw materials with the addition of antiseptics and flame retardants. Most often they are boric acid and borax.

In stores, it can be found packed in plastic bags. When laying, ecowool is loosened and then laid out at the place of insulation. In fact, the density of the insulation should be at least 35 kg / m 3 for overlapping, which is quite difficult to determine “by eye”.

This heat-insulating material has good thermal conductivity - 0.037-0.042 W / m K, low volumetric weight (28-63 kg / m 3), moderately combustible and bio-resistant. Ecowool can prevent about 20% of humidity from passing into the inner layers, while maintaining its thermal insulation properties.

Cork slabs for thermal insulation have been used for a long time. They are made from shredded cork waste by mixing with glue or heat treatment. Pressed plates in special forms are dried at a temperature of 80 °C.

The volumetric weight of cork insulation is small and amounts to 150-250 kg / m 3, the thermal insulation index is high (0.04-0.08 W / m K). The advantages of this insulator include:

  • biostability;
  • low water absorption;
  • low volumetric weight;
  • relatively high strength thermal insulation material;
  • fire resistance (smolders slowly);
  • not attacked by rodents.

Features of laying thermal insulation on a wooden floor

Insulation made of mineral and glass wool is laid with mandatory vapor barrier. Absorbing water, the insulation loses its thermal properties, so careful protection against moisture is needed. The vapor barrier films are laid with an overlap of 100 mm.

A heat insulator with a reflective coating reduces the heat loss of the ceiling. It is laid down with foil. The use of penofol is justified only in baths and saunas.

If the thickness of the insulating material more height floor beams, it is necessary to lay additional rails to create an air gap. Multilayer thermal insulation is arranged with overlapping butt joints.

The dimensions of rigid heat-insulating plates are adjusted with great care so that the gaps do not increase the thermal conductivity of the floor. Otherwise, the installation of this type of insulation does not differ from the installation of thermal insulation from mineral wool boards.

Bulk heat insulators are evenly distributed over the entire space between the beams, observing the required (calculated) layer thickness. Since almost all of them absorb moisture, such an insulator is protected from moisture by a membrane film from above and below.

The choice of material for thermal insulation of the attic floor is determined by the following criteria:

  1. Material costs, including shipping costs.
  2. Local availability of material.
  3. Ease of installation.
  4. Health safety.
  5. Fire safety.

It is possible to reduce the stress of the building structure by choosing a heater with a lower volumetric weight and a low heat absorption index.

According to science, an attic is a space limited by the slopes of the roof and the upper ceiling of the last floor. This space is residential, and in this case is called an attic, and the word "attic" is applied to non-residential premises. Read about attic insulation.

The attic separates the attic from the living quarters, which, with reliable thermal insulation, will protect the upper floor from cold in winter, spring and autumn, and from heat in summer. However, this is not possible without reliable thermal insulation.

To insulate the attic floor, PENOPLEX SPb LLC recommends high-quality PENOPLEX ® boards, as they say in sports, "for a clear advantage."

Advantages of PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation in relation to the insulation of attic floors

  • Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.034 W/m∙K
  • This is the main indicator for insulation. The lower it is, the better material keeps warm. In PENOPLEX ® it is one of the lowest - a quarter less than that of mineral wool and polystyrene, 4 times less than that of expanded clay gravel.

  • Zero water absorption
  • The second most important thermal parameter. How better insulation absorbs water, the faster it loses its qualities.

    Due to the zero water absorption of PENOPLEX ®, its heat-shielding properties are preserved throughout the entire service life, there is no need to protect it from rain and snow during storage, and the growth of fungus and mold is prevented.

  • Environmental friendliness and safety
  • Many are mistaken, believing that materials obtained by chemical synthesis have nothing to do with environmental friendliness. But why, then, from synthetic raw materials for the manufacture of PENOPLEX ® boards - polystyrene general purpose- also make children's toys, egg cartons, yogurt jars and disposable utensils that we eat on picnics?!

    Moreover, in the composition of some heat-insulating materials made from natural raw materials, there are other components that are by no means safe for health. PENOPLEX ® does not contain fine fibers, dust, soot, slag, phenol-formaldehyde resins; freon is not used in its manufacture. When working with PENOPLEX ® there is no need to protect the respiratory system.

  • Ease of installation
  • Installation is not only safe, but also convenient. PENOPLEX ® boards are easy to cut and cut with simple tools - an ordinary knife. The dimensions of the plates are convenient, as well as the L-shaped edge along all edges, which also allows you to lay thermal insulation without “cold bridges”.

  • Durability not less than 50 years
  • Plates PENOPLEX ® tested in the truest sense of the word. The durability tests consisted of 90 load cycles on product samples, each equivalent to a year of operation in harsh conditions. One such cycle included first freezing to –40°C, then heating to +40°C, then freezing again to –40°C and immersion in water. Having done these 90 cycles with PENOPLEX ® slabs, the scientists of the Research Institute of Building Physics, who conducted the tests, did not find any noticeable changes in thermal characteristics. Which is fixed in . With a margin, the material was assigned a service life of at least 50 years.

Types of attic floors

Recall that it is customary to call the attic floor the entire structure (“pie”) from the base to the floor finish. In private housing construction, attic floors with reinforced concrete and wooden bases are most common.

General and different

Most often used as a reinforced concrete base hollow core slabs or a monolithic floor, as a wooden one - logs. These designs are shown in the diagrams below. There are commonalities and differences between them. As usual, the general is the principle, and the differences are in the details.

The design principle of any attic floor is simple: "the base of the floor - insulation - floor finish." The presence of a vapor barrier under the insulation can also be considered common, which, however, is not particularly relevant for PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation with its low vapor permeability. The vapor barrier is designed to protect the insulation from the natural flow of water vapor from rooms where there are more of them than outside due to the higher temperature inside the room during the cold season, people breathing, cooking, etc.

Please note that in most cases two layers of insulation are required. According to the calculation of the required thicknesses of PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation (see table below), in Russia, the attic floor insulation layer should be more than 100 mm, with the exception of the regions of the South and North Caucasus federal districts. The greatest thickness in the range of slabs recommended for insulation of attic floors is just 100 mm.

The differences between timber and reinforced concrete attic floor structures lie in the materials and construction of the finishes, as well as in other layers located between the three main floor structural elements.

Finish coat

As for the finish coating, when arranging the attic, aesthetic tasks are not set, everything is dictated by practical necessity, and options are chosen without frills. In addition, in construction, there is a practice of matching the finishing coating to the base according to the laying method: “wet” and “dry”. Therefore, with a reinforced concrete base, to which a leveling screed is laid, laid by pouring a wet mortar, a concrete floor is usually used. For construction based on dry wooden lag a sheet finish coating is used: gypsum-fiber sheet, cement-bonded particle boards, etc. If the attic does not carry serious permanent loads (they rarely go there, they don’t store heavy objects), then you can save money and do without a finish coat.

Attic floor with wooden joists at the base (classic design)

The classic attic flooring along the joists involves filling the space between them.

  1. Wall
  2. Sheet covering (GVL/TsSP)
  3. PENOPLEX®
  4. Wooden floor beam
  5. vapor barrier
  6. Sheet material (OSB/plywood)

Attic floor with wooden joists at the base (optimized design)

  1. Finishing sheet coating (GVL / DSP)
  2. PENOPLEX®
  3. vapor barrier
  4. Sheet material decking (OSB/plywood)

Compared with the classic design, this option allows you to significantly simplify installation. Suitable for those for whom it is important to reduce construction time and uncritically reduce the height of the attic space.

Attic floor with reinforced concrete base

  1. Cement-sand screed
  2. Separating layer (polyethylene)
  3. PENOPLEX®
  4. Vapor barrier (polyethylene)
  5. Leveling screed
  6. Reinforced concrete floor slab

In a structure with a reinforced concrete base, the insulation is located between two screeds (concrete and cement-sand), which are separated from it by layers of polyethylene, which acts as a vapor barrier. Upper layer of this material also serves to prevent the ingress of "cement milk" on the insulation during the solidification of the solution.

How to install and insulate an attic floor

Installation of an attic floor on a base of wooden logs: a classic version

    Installation of vapor barrier. In the classical design, first, a vapor barrier layer of polyethylene is attached to the lags from below using a construction stapler. Moreover, to ensure the tightness of the stapler staples, it is necessary to drive them through a butyl rubber tape, previously glued to the logs.

    Installation of sheet flooring for insulation. Fasten with nails or screws.

    Heater installation. PENOPLEX COMFORT ® slabs are laid in the space between the joists, which are cut and cut using an ordinary knife in accordance with the size and configuration of this space. The joints of the plates with lags and with each other are sealed with one-component polyurethane compounds, which are recommended to be used or, which has a lower secondary expansion.

    Installation of the finish coat. If PENOPLEX ® is additionally mounted in a continuous layer over the floor beams, the finish coating is usually laid without fastening: sheet material supported by its own weight. In an exploited attic, it is recommended to carry out a finish coat of two layers of GVL in overlapping joints.

Installation of an attic floor on a base of wooden logs: an optimized option

    Installation of a sheet flooring under a heater: from above, on logs. Fasten with nails or screws.

    Installation of vapor barrier. Fix from above on a sheet flooring.

    Heater installation. PENOPLEX COMFORT ® slabs are laid on the flooring in the same way as in the classical design, using the same means.

    Installation of the finish coat. Just like in the classical design.

Installation of an attic floor with a reinforced concrete base

    Leveling the surface of the base plate. It is carried out using a cement-sand screed. Local irregularities should be no more than 5 mm.

    Polyethylene vapor barrier.

    Installation of PENOPLEX COMFORT ® thermal insulation: the same as in the optimized variant of overlapping along the logs.

    Laying a separating layer made of polyethylene.

    Installation of the finishing coating - cement-sand screed. A gap of 10-20 mm is required between the screed and the wall, taking into account thermal expansion. The gap is filled with mounting foam - it is recommended to use PENOPLEX ® FASTFIX ® mounting foam. As for a floor with a base of wooden logs, in the case of an exploited attic, instead of a screed, it is possible to perform a finish coating of two layers of GVL in overlapping joints.

As already mentioned, in the absence of loads on the attic floor, there is no need for a top coat, and, accordingly, a separating layer.

Required thickness of PENOPLEX ® slabs for insulation of the attic floor

Cities

Thickness "PENOPLEX"
mm

Arkhangelsk

Astrakhan

Belgorod

Blagoveshchensk

Velikiy Novgorod

Vladivostok

Vladikavkaz

Vladimir

Volgograd

Yekaterinburg

Yoshkar-Ola

Kaliningrad

Kemerovo

Kostroma

Krasnodar

Krasnoyarsk

Makhachkala

Murmansk

Nizhny Novgorod

Novosibirsk

Orenburg

Petrozavodsk

Petropavlovsk - Kamchatsky

Rostov-on-Don

Salekhard

St. Petersburg

Smolensk

Stavropol

Syktyvkar

Ulyanovsk

Khabarovsk

Cheboksary

Chelyabinsk

Cherkessk

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Yaroslavl

Since the roof of a cold attic performs only the function of protection from rain, snow and, in part, wind, special attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the floor. Insulation of the attic floor is carried out using various heat-insulating materials with the obligatory organization of wind protection, especially from the side of the eaves of the roof.

Insulation of the ceiling in two layers using mineral wool rolls

As a rule, insulation is laid directly on the floor of a cold attic. Naturally, provided that the attic will not be operated. This will save on a layer of waterproofing film, as well as on the organization of a full-fledged floor covering.

How to insulate the attic floor and what materials can be used for this - read below.

What should be the thickness of the attic floor insulation?

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer does not depend on which design of the attic floor on wooden beams or reinforced concrete is chosen. On the packaging of any insulation, the coefficient of thermal conductivity λ is indicated, and it has two values: λA - for a dry environment, and λB - for a wet one. The lower this coefficient, the better the insulating properties of the material. It is on the basis of this value that the calculation of the attic floor insulation is made.

The thickness of the attic floor insulation is:

α = R 0 λB

where R 0 is the coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, which, according to the standards, is 4.15 m² ° C / W.

Insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams

Most small houses and dachas with a cold roof, wooden floors are used, therefore it is their thermal insulation that we will consider first of all.

The device of the attic floor on wooden beams, as a rule, is as follows:

  1. Bottom floor lining.
  2. Vapor barrier.
  3. Cover beams.
  4. Insulation.
  5. Waterproofing.
  6. Finishing.

The installation of a ceiling in a private house with a cold attic begins with the laying of load-bearing beams. Since their maximum length is usually 4 meters, for rooms of greater width it is necessary either to build supports or use metal girders.

Scheme of a wooden attic floor with two layers of insulation

After the beams are laid, a vapor barrier is made for the ceiling of the cold attic. To do this, a vapor barrier film is attached to them from below, which protects the insulation from the penetration of moisture from the lower room. When you are insulating the wooden floor of the attic, it is advisable to use special reinforced multilayer materials made of polyethylene or polypropylene as a film, since it is stronger and much easier to attach.

It is best when the vapor barrier layer is continuous. However, the design of a wooden attic floor does not always allow this. If for some reason the vapor barrier cannot be placed under the beams, the film is laid between them with an overlap on them and fixed with a special adhesive tape to ensure tightness.

Don't forget to impregnate the wood

The device of a wooden attic floor involves the risk of damage to the supporting structures due to decay. Therefore, before laying the cold attic cake, all wooden beams and crates should be impregnated with special solutions that prevent rotting and mold formation.

Next, the attic floor is insulated along the beams, for which the heat-insulating material is laid between them. If you use loose insulation, then it should be carefully leveled and made sure that it fills all the voids.

The minimum thickness of thermal insulation for insulating an attic wooden floor, calculated by you using the formula above, may be greater than the width of the supporting beams. In this case, a crate of bars of the size you need is attached across them. Then another layer of insulation is laid between them with the obligatory overlap of the joints of the previous layer.

Avoid cold bridges

It is recommended to close the attic floor beams with a layer of thermal insulation even if their width is sufficient to accommodate the insulation of the calculated thickness. The fact is that so-called cold bridges are formed through them, in connection with which heat losses in the house increase.

Attic flooring on wooden beams is usually performed with a floor made of ordinary flooring made of processed boards laid across the battens or support beams. However, thick plywood, chipboard, MDF and other similar materials can also be used as a finish.

If as finishing If you want to use a leveling screed, then waterproofing a cold attic over a layer of insulation is a must.

Insulation of the attic floor on a reinforced concrete slab

If you need to insulate the attic floor on reinforced concrete slabs, then this can be done in two ways: with and without the crate.

The first method is universal, but most often used for light types of insulation. The cold attic attic floor device in this case will look like this:

  1. Attic floor vapor barrier in progress cold attic, which should cover the entire layer of insulation also from the sides. Since the vapor barrier simply needs to be laid on the floor, it is not necessary to use specialized materials- ordinary cheap polyethylene film will do.
  2. On top of the film with a narrow side wooden block placed a width equal to half the required thickness, which the insulation for a cold attic should have. The distance between the bars is usually taken equal to the width of the roll or plate of the selected brand of insulation.
  3. between boards insulation for the attic floor. If it is necessary to use several layers of heat-insulating material in thickness, it is laid with overlapping joints of the previous layer.
  4. Across the already laid bars, exactly the same, at the same distance from each other. Between them, a second layer of thermal insulation of the attic floor is laid.
  5. Above vapor-permeable waterproofing of a cold attic is laid, which is fixed either with a special adhesive tape or a thin bar nailed along the crate. This stage can be omitted if high-quality waterproofing of the cold roof from corrugated board has already been completed before.
  6. across the bars nailed floor boards or walkways are laid for movement.

Since it is very important to properly insulate the ceiling under a cold roof in order to save on heating the house, I recommend using the above transverse thermal insulation laying scheme. Such an attic floor device minimizes the possibility of forming a cold bridge through wooden bars, since most of them will be insulated with a heater.

The second method of warming a cold attic on reinforced concrete slabs without the use of a crate is suitable in cases where moisture-resistant solid types of insulation are used for thermal insulation, which can withstand a significant load without loss of properties.


Scheme of the device for overlapping the attic on a reinforced concrete slab

In this case, the vapor barrier of the attic floor is also laid first. Next, the attic floor slabs are insulated with a layer of thermal insulation of the calculated thickness.

A leveling screed is poured over it. The finished floor is already laid on the screed. If the insulation of the concrete attic floor is carried out with aerated concrete and materials similar in density and properties, then you can do without hydro and vapor barrier, as well as screeds.

Insulation for the attic floor: which one to choose?

Before you insulate the attic floor, you need to choose a heat-insulating material that is right for you. Unfortunately, there is no universal option, the better to insulate the attic floor. This choice depends on many factors, the most significant of which are:

  • heat-insulating properties of the material;
  • fire safety;
  • price;
  • ease of installation;
  • environmental friendliness;
  • hygroscopicity;
  • strength;
  • resistance to decay, temperature, acid and alkali.

You must decide which of these factors are most important to you, and which can be neglected.

Insulation of the ceiling of a cold attic with mineral wool

Mineral wool is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation. The best characteristics in order to insulate the attic floor of a house are its variety based on basalt fibers, which is called stone (basalt) wool.

Insulation based on basalt fibers belongs to the class of non-combustible materials with a melting point above 1000 ° C; and has excellent thermal insulation properties. However, it easily absorbs moisture, so when using it, the requirements for hydro and vapor barrier are especially high.

Insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool is best done using rolls, since the joints between the plates, albeit not much, but reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. It must be laid close to the beams or guides, but avoiding jamming.


Mineral wool laid in two layers when insulating the attic floor

Installation of mineral wool is very simple, so this heat-insulating material is most often chosen when they want to insulate the attic floor with their own hands without involving specialists. During work, do not forget to use personal protective equipment: thick rubber gloves, goggles and clothing that covers the entire body. For people prone to allergies, this kit must be supplemented with a respirator.

Advantages:

  • fire safety;
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • The convenience of use;
  • Relatively low price.

Disadvantages:

  • Tendency to form seals, good creasing;
  • Hygroscopicity.

Insulation of the attic floor with foam

Styrofoam is a very inexpensive material, which, in fact, is expanded polystyrene foam and retains heat due to these "bubbles" with air. It is cheap, has good thermal insulation properties, is moisture resistant and can withstand fairly large compressive loads.


Styrofoam boards of various thicknesses

However, all its advantages are more than covered by one drawback - this material is fire hazardous. Already at 80 °C; foam plastic melts with the release of a huge amount of harmful substances, and at a temperature of 210 ° C; ignition occurs. Therefore, the insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams with foam plastic is not the best good idea. However, it can be used between non-combustible materials, for example, when laying as insulation on concrete slab with screed filling.

Advantages:

  • High heat-insulating properties;
  • low price;
  • Moisture resistant;
  • Resistant to decay;

Disadvantages:

  • fragility;
  • Very combustible;
  • Deformed already at a temperature of 60 °C;
  • It is an excellent hiding place for mice.

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam is made from the same material as polystyrene, but using a fundamentally different technology. On the territory of the CIS, heaters of this type from the Penoplex company are most common. Operational properties extruded polystyrene foam is significantly better than that of polystyrene, especially with regard to the ignition temperature of the material.


Extruded polystyrene foam in slabs of various thicknesses

However, the insulation of a wooden attic floor with foam plastic is still not recommended. Despite the fact that open combustion of this heat-insulating material occurs at a sufficiently high temperature, it is still a fire hazard. Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam supports combustion, and secondly, it releases very caustic and toxic substances when heated even to very low temperatures, and they are the cause of death in a fire in most cases. Therefore, penoplex is far from the best option than insulating the attic floor of a house, even if it is reinforced concrete.

Advantages:

  • High heat-insulating properties;
  • Moisture resistant;
  • Resistant to decay;
  • High density;
  • Withstands fairly large loads;
  • Light weight.

Disadvantages:

  • When heated above 80 °C; begins to release toxic substances;
  • Fire hazardous;
  • Deforms when heated.

Insulation of the attic floor of the house with polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam slabs are one of the best insulation materials available. This material has excellent thermal insulation properties, it is durable, resistant to chemical and bacteriological influences, non-hygroscopic and fireproof.


Polyurethane foam insulation in the form of a plate with a foil coating

Polyurethane foam is the best way to insulate an attic floor in a private house. If you can afford it. It is the high cost that is its main and, probably, the only drawback. Because of it, it may even be difficult to purchase this material in small towns.

Advantages:

  • The best heat-insulating properties among the considered materials;
  • Fireproof;
  • Unaffected by moisture and chemicals;
  • Does not rot;
  • Eco-friendly;
  • Convenient to use.

Disadvantages:

  • Price.

Warming the ceiling of a cold attic with sawdust

Previously, in the absence of other materials, the insulation of a cold roof with sawdust was a ubiquitous phenomenon. Now this method of thermal insulation is used by those who like its environmental friendliness. At the same time, despite popular belief, the design of the attic floor with the use of such a heater is by no means cheap. Sawdust is not stacked “dry”, but in a special solution, the manufacture of which requires money and a lot of time.

The composition of the sawdust solution for warming a cold attic is as follows:

  • 10 buckets sawdust (we need exactly wood, which are formed during sawing and processing of wood, furniture sawdust - too small for these purposes);
  • 1 bucket of hydrated lime(fluffs);
  • 1 bucket of cement;
  • 5-10 buckets of water with antiseptic, for example, with boric acid, soap or blue vitriol(fill in gradually with a watering can, the final amount depends on the size of the sawdust).

The resulting mixture is placed on the base between the beams and rammed. The thickness of the layer of such insulation for the attic floor should be at least 300 mm, but it is better to do more, since the thermal insulation properties of the sawdust solution can vary greatly. On top of such a heater to cover the attic, walkways are laid for movement, which can be used as sheets of chipboard or thick plywood.

Advantages:

  • Comparative cheapness;
  • Environmental friendliness;
  • Good thermal insulation properties.

Disadvantages:

  • labor intensive independent production;
  • The thickness of the attic floor is large;
  • Complicated installation;
  • Differences in thermal insulation properties depending on the composition.

Insulation of the attic floor with expanded clay

Another relatively cheap material that can be used to insulate the attic floor in a private house is expanded clay. It is made by firing clay and is one of the most environmentally friendly building materials. In addition, expanded clay has good thermal insulation properties, is fireproof, durable and inert to acids and alkalis.

Expanded clay can be used to insulate both reinforced concrete and wooden floor attic. However, in the latter case, one must carefully consider the calculation bearing capacity beams, since expanded clay insulation weighs much more than modern heaters. Concrete attic floor slabs can easily withstand very heavy loads, so expanded clay can be used for them without additional calculations.

  • Good thermal insulation properties;
  • Fireproof;
  • Resistant to acids and alkalis;
  • Not subject to decay;
  • Durable;
  • Low cost.
  • Disadvantages:

    • Difficulty in installation.

    When providing insulation for a private house, one should not forget that special attention should be paid to such a place as the attic.

    Warm air tends to rise to the top, and therefore, in a temporarily unheated room, heat can escape through the space of a cold attic. Therefore, the issue of attic insulation must be addressed without delay.

    1 Why is attic floor insulation necessary?

    Insulation of the cold floor of the attic with stone or mineral wool, by and large, is necessary in little used premises, which are properly equipped with special roof ventilation.

    The attic, or rather its ceilings, perform the function of a kind of boundary between heat and cold. In such places, attic floors are exposed to intense moisture due to the formation of condensate.

    However, it is possible to properly insulate the floors in the attic of the house with mineral wool with your own hands. The very process of insulating the floor in the attic with mineral wool is the creation of a durable thermal insulation coating, which will have a low degree of thermal conductivity.

    The very technology of insulating the floor with mineral wool in the attic, as well as implies strict adherence to its stages and requirements.

    By itself, this technology is quite simple and understandable. Good thermal insulation of the attic floor with mineral wool helps to close unwanted gaps.

    To do this, the insulation must be laid tightly. In most cases, mineral wool is used to insulate the attic of a house.

    The presented insulation is the most suitable for this type of work, it can also be used to insulate the floor surface in the living quarters of the house.

    With the organization of good insulation with mineral wool, the most optimal temperature will be maintained in the living quarters.

    If the procedure is not performed correctly, then moisture rising from the floor of the house will lead to the formation of condensate.

    It will accumulate on the ceiling, and then seep through the floors. The resulting temperature difference in those areas where attic floors adjoin the walls of the house initiates the formation of mold and microscopic fungi, which can be the causative agents of allergic diseases.

    1.1 Attic insulation requirements

    The process of insulating the attic floor and, more precisely, the level of its quality has a direct impact not only on the size of heat loss, but also on the duration of the operational life of the entire truss structure and roofing.

    The fact is that the water vapor inside the heated room diffuses to the attic of the house. In order for the applied insulation to provide a high degree of calculated efficiency of the heat-insulating layer, it must always be dry.

    Based on this, the insulation must be protected from excessive moisture by vapors of ascending heated air using a special vapor-tight material.

    If the attic is well insulated, then it will not only provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also help to increase the operational life of the entire roof structure.

    If there is no vapor barrier, then steam will penetrate through the unprotected attic ceilings and condense on the ceiling surfaces.

    This will lead to the fact that moisture will drain onto the rafters, which, under its influence, will slowly begin to rot from the inside.

    As a result, the probability of destruction of the entire roofing pie increases. The thermal insulation performance of the structure is also reduced due to the fact that the tightness of the vapor barrier layer has been broken.

    Before you insulate the attic, you need to drain the layer and remove moisture from the entire attic space. To do this, ventilation should be done through windows. They may be:

    • Skating like;
    • eaves;
    • slotted;
    • Auditory.

    In order to ensure maximum ventilation intensity, the indicator of the total area of ​​​​all ventilation openings should be equal to 0.2-0.5% of attic floors.

    If all work is carried out correctly, then in winter period icicles will not form on the roof. The very process of warming the attic space is carried out not from the living quarters, but from the floor of the attic.

    So it is most convenient to lay insulation, the choice of which depends on the technology used and design features buildings.

    1.2 Features of insulation of beam ceilings

    When implementing such an insulation scheme using mineral wool, heat is stored in the space between the beams. Their usual height is almost always enough for this, however, if necessary, several bars are stuffed on top.

    The lower part of the overlap is sewn up with the help of molded material as with. For this, lining or drywall sheets can be used.

    On top of the beams, a subfloor covering is laid. It can be a tongue-and-groove board, plywood sheet or OSB board. Mineral wool is adjusted to a special vapor barrier prepared in advance.

    An alternative to it can serve as an ordinary film made using polyethylene. If the vapor barrier material is foiled, then it is laid with a shiny surface down.

    The intermediate distance between the beams is filled with mineral wool with the desired thickness parameters. The surface of the beams must be equipped with an additional insulating layer.

    This will block the so-called cold bridges and significantly reduce the overall level of heat loss. If high quality timber was used to create the beams, then finishing material creep directly on their surface.

    Mineral wool is placed between them as with, and the attic floor is laid on top. The use of this technology is especially important in houses that are made of logs or beams.

    It is important to protect the mineral wool with a high degree of reliability from the ingress of the smallest drops of moisture, this is especially true if the roof has minor coating defects, due to which leaks occur.

    The layer of mineral wool must be reliably protected from the effects of wind from the side of the eaves. For this, mineral wool slabs with a high degree of density are used.

    2 Why is mineral wool used for attic insulation?

    In most cases, when insulating attic floors, the choice of the consumer falls on mineral wool. Its advantage lies in the fact that its installation does not require special skills.

    Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation properties. Its structure consists of thin vitreous fibers, the length of which ranges from 2 to 60 millimeters.

    High soundproofing characteristics are provided due to the presence a large number air pores.

    These pores are located in the space between the fibers and can occupy 95% of the total volume of the insulation. Mineral wool is presented in three varieties, it can be basalt glass and stone.

    Basalt wool is made using molten basalt rocks, to which binders are added.

    This may be a carbonate-type rock, which regulates the level of acidity of the substance, which entails an increase in the service life of the insulation. Glass wool exhibits high heat-resistant properties and is able to withstand temperatures up to +450 degrees Celsius.

    2.1 Technology of insulation of attic floors with mineral wool

    During work related to mineral wool, it is important to comply with all safety requirements and regulations.

    This is due to the fact that in the process of cutting and laying such material, the air is filled with tiny particles that can enter the respiratory organs and thus cause harm to human health.

    When carrying out installation, be sure to take care of the availability of personal protective equipment. Goggles, a respirator and thick rubber gloves should be available.

    The process of warming attic floors begins with the selection of the necessary tools and additional materials. Can't do without:

    insulation

    • Boards and plywood;
    • vapor barrier film;
    • Mineral wool (excellent);
    • Waterproofing;
    • adhesive tape;
    • Roulettes;
    • Knife;
    • Construction stapler;
    • spatula.

    The essence of the insulation technology lies in the fact that the insulation must be carefully laid in the space between attic floors or beams.

    To enhance the thermal insulation qualities, reliable vapor barrier should be used. Warm and moisture-saturated air will continuously rise from the living rooms and go up through the ceiling.

    There, in the roof space, he will collide with a layer of insulation. Due to the fact that mineral wool is generally recognized as a vapor-tight material, it will take all the outgoing moisture into itself.

    If it is left without the necessary access of air and sunlight, it will gradually shrink and, in the end, will lose all its heat-insulating qualities.

    In order to avoid such destructive consequences, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier material under a layer of mineral wool.

    Before starting the main work, it will be necessary to carefully calculate the required amount of insulation.

    The amount of wool purchased depends on how many layers you plan to use when covering the attic. In addition, the thermal insulation thickness parameter directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region.

    2.2 Proper insulation of the attic floor (video)