Pavement concrete slabs. Do-it-yourself garden paths from slabs: photo, step-by-step master class Laying the path with concrete slabs

29.08.2019

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Concrete is called an artificial stone for its high strength characteristics. Therefore, concrete slabs for paths will last a long time, not only due to the high strength of the products, but also due to low abrasion and high frost resistance. In this article, we will consider several issues related to the manufacture of concrete tiles: mortar proportions, forms, pouring technology. After reading the article, you will know exactly what and in what order workers should do when pouring concrete slabs for paths.

Concrete slab garden path

Plate mold

The form, which is also formwork for garden paths, is a huge variety of sizes and configurations. There are no restrictions on the choice of these two parameters, except for common sense. In this case, the design you have chosen can be made of lumber in the form of boards or slats, metal (steel tape or corner). The main requirement is that the form must be collapsible.

The number of formwork elements is selected based on the pouring speed. The more of them, the faster the required number of concrete slabs will be produced.

Hexagonal shape of wooden slats

Pouring technology

In order to properly pour concrete paths at the cottage or suburban area, you need a flat area, preferably concrete or asphalt (without large drops, bulges, recesses and cracks). If there is none, then any open area is suitable, on which sheet iron is laid under the forms. Because the main requirement for tiles is flat planes.

Mixing concrete mortar

The recipe for concrete mix for garden paths is classic:

one volume of cement brand M400;

two volumes of sand;

four volumes of crushed stone or fine gravel (up to 5 mm) - not always used.

As for the amount of water, in the classical recipe it is equal to 0.5 of the volume of cement being poured. If a concrete mixer is used for mixing, then all indicated shares are strictly observed. If mixing is done in a trough with shovels, then more water can be taken to facilitate and increase the convenience of mixing the components of the concrete solution.

If a concrete mixer is used, then cement is first placed in its drum and water is poured. The main thing is that all particles of cement are well wetted. After that, sand and gravel are laid in portions.

If kneading is carried out in a trough, then all dry ingredients are well mixed with each other. And then water is poured into the mixture. And the solution is thoroughly mixed.

turnkey landscaping. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Pouring concrete into molds

Concrete tile for paths is a product that is subject to reinforcement. Armoframe is a lattice assembled from metal rods with a diameter of 4-5 mm. Usually a steel rod is used for this. The lattice elements are fastened together by electric welding or knitting wire. It is possible to use a finished steel mesh with cells of 20x20 or 25x25 mm as a reinforcing frame.

The production of concrete tiles begins with pouring concrete mortar at half the height of the formwork. The laid solution must be compacted. Ideally, if a vibrating table is used in the manufacturing process. But if there is none, then the put mixture is pierced with a trowel in order to remove air from it that enters the concrete during its kneading. Air pores and shells reduce the strength of the concrete product.

Then a reinforcing frame is laid on top. Its dimensions are slightly smaller than the internal space of the formwork. And the concrete solution is poured from above to the edges of the form. The poured mixture is punched, and then the surface is leveled along the edges, removing excess material. The surface of the tile is smoothed with a trowel, achieving maximum smoothness.

Pouring solution into molds

If the task is to decorate the finished product, then it is at this stage that the upper surface of the plates is finished. For example, pebbles, pieces of ceramic tiles, and other materials are laid on top. If you need to make tiles of any color, then a pigment is added to the concrete solution itself. The latter is poured into the drum of a concrete mixer in the process of adding fillers.

Demoulding

If the outside air temperature is within + 25C, then the formwork of concrete garden path tiles is removed in 1-2 days. But it is not recommended to use tiles right away. It is better to dry them within a week, when the concrete is 50% mature. Therefore, the tiles are assembled in one place by laying them "napop", that is, on the edge. In this position, they are well blown with air from all sides, the concrete dries uniformly throughout the entire body of the product.

Video description

The video shows how the formwork is carried out:

On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing small architectural forms. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Pavement with concrete slabs

The technology for laying concrete tiles depends on the soil, which is located on a suburban area.

If the soil is sandy, then the tiles are laid directly on the sand.

If clayey, then prepare the base.

Preparatory work

At this stage, the garden path itself is marked out - its configuration and width. Then the top fertile soil layer is removed, the roots of plants and the vegetation itself are removed.

Preparing the foundation for the future track

Backfilling is carried out on clay soil: first, crushed stone with a layer thickness within 10 cm, then sand with a thickness of 5-8 cm. Both layers are well tamped.

Installation of concrete tiles

Laying of plates is carried out from one side of the marking in width to the other. The configuration of the masonry can be different: in a run to the floor of the slab, in order. If tiles rectangular shape, then perpendicular to each other. There are no restrictions here. Lay concrete tiles for paths in the country with effort (pressure). That is, they put a stove, press it with their hands and tap it with a mallet from above.

The main task of the manufacturer of works is to lay out the elements in one horizontal plane, leaving a gap between them within 1-2 cm.

Therefore, it is very important during the laying process that the master does not let go of the level.

The first laid tile is checked for horizontality. If some edge sticks out, then I tap it with a mallet, sinking it. If it is necessary to raise the edge, then a little sand is poured under it.

Then the second element of the track is laid next to it, which is set horizontally not only as a separate product, but also in conjunction with the already laid slab.

As one transverse row is laid out, it is checked with a long rule for horizontality.

Laying concrete tiles, the formation of the track

The concrete path assembled in this way is covered with sand, which is distributed over the entire surface with a broom so that the bulk material fills the gaps between the tiles. Ideally, the finished path should be well watered so that the sand in the gaps compacts and sinks. After that, additional backfilling is carried out again and water is poured again.

There is a technology in which the installation of concrete tiles for paths is laid on a cement-sand mortar. Its recipe: four volumes of sand per volume of cement. Today in stores you can buy a ready-made dry mix, in which the proportions of the components are strictly maintained. It is simply diluted with water in the ratio indicated on the packaging (paper bag).

The use of this technology is a few requirements:

The path of concrete slabs is assembled with a slight slope to one side. The thing is that the cement-sand mortar will create a waterproof layer under the tiles. This means that water will collect on the path. To prevent this from happening, a slight slope of the plane is needed.

The gaps between the plates are filled with either a dry cement-sand mixture, followed by watering, or a ready-made mortar, filling the gaps with a trowel. The second option requires care so that the solution does not stain the surface of the track.

Filling gaps between tiles with sand

And one moment. The path itself is formed not only by concrete tiles. Concrete or stone curbs are used to mark its boundaries. First of all, install them on cement mortar and then laying the tiles. But if the surface of the track does not protrude beyond the ground, then the curbs are not installed. The soil itself will keep the products to be laid from spreading to the sides.

Video description

There are several ways to create concrete slabs for a garden path. About them in the video:

Decorating garden paths

So that concrete slab paths do not turn into a practical, but boring element of the landscape, there are several ways to decorate the slabs themselves, or the space between them:

Concrete tiles do not have to be gray - if you add a coloring pigment to the cement during manufacture, you can get a multi-colored track.

Multi-colored walkway made of concrete tiles

During the drying of the concrete, but while it has not yet completely hardened, glass, ceramic or marble chips can be pressed into the surface of the tiles - a beautiful mosaic will turn out.

Concrete tiles can be the basis for almost any pattern.

Still, during the drying of the solution, a relief pattern can be squeezed out on the surface of the tiles.

There are already ready-made forms on sale that give relief to the finished tile.

If you lay the plates with a small gap, then in the gap between them you can sow grass.

A very easy way to decorate even standard concrete tiles

Beautifully looks "path in the path"

Ironing is a way to "polish" concrete tiles. To do this, a layer of cement is poured onto the still damp slabs and rubbed into the surface.

Iron tiles have a perfectly flat surface

Conclusion

For garden plots, concrete slabs used to form paths are ideal. These are durable products with increased wear resistance, which are made in different sizes and shapes. At the same time, this is one of the cheapest and fastest options for finishing garden paths, which is easy to repair. If one tile cracked during operation, then replacing it with a new one is not a problem.

Concrete is used not only in capital construction. Affordable, durable and strong widely used as an element landscape design when arranging paths around cottages, garden houses. It is not always justified to lay near the house paving slabs or other purchased material. Often a rational solution is to make original decorated ones.

Do-it-yourself concrete slabs

The production of concrete slabs is preceded by a preparation stage. It is necessary to decide on the design, think over the placement plan and the direction of laying the track. Then you need to prepare the forms, knead the cement mortar and pour it into the forms, after reinforcing. At this stage of the work, the slabs are decorated in accordance with the project (texture, color, degree of roughness, relief images, etc.). Finished slabs are laid on the prepared base.

Form creation

Fantasy and expediency (path width) will tell you what shape to give to the plates that will fill the path in the country. The simplest option is a square slab 40 x 40 (50 x 50) cm. It can also have a rectangular, hexagonal, triangular, trapezoid and other shapes. An interesting option could be the alternation of plates various shapes and size. Concrete flooring can be composed of elements irregular shape, which will correspond, for example, to the design of flower beds, a garden in the country.

Useful, for example, steel hoops from cracked barrels, other improvised materials that can be arbitrarily bent. The bottom is attached to such a closed strip, and the form is ready. It will be interesting to look at the track of round elements of different sizes. Buckets, pans, as well as short, up to 8 cm, cuts can become shaping equipment metal pipes etc. The most accessible for manufacturing and convenient for use is a wooden form.

The design of the track and the creation of forms for the plates depends on your imagination and skill.

It is assembled from wooden bars 4–5 cm wide, having grooves for joining, for example, into a square. The design is made durable (on self-tapping screws, corners), but collapsible. The height of the bars determines the depth of the mold - this is the thickness of the plate, which is chosen from 50 to 80 mm. A solid bottom is fixedly attached to the bars, for example, a sheet of metal on a wooden shield. The form must be airtight. It is desirable that the dimensions and geometry of the products ensure the ease of casting, laying and the comfort of moving along the path in the country.

In work, it is advisable to use several molds at once in order to cast the plates with a stream. Their repeated use is facilitated by the impregnation of wood with hot drying oil, so the bars will retain their shape for a long time. After the temporary formwork from the tile should be easily removed and disassembled. This is helped by coating the wooden elements and the bottom of the form with drying oil (technical oil) immediately before.

Preparation of concrete solution

You can knead the concrete mixture in the country by hand, or you can use a concrete mixer. Additionally, you will need an open container for the solution and tools. Dry components of the concrete mixture in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand (washed) and 3 parts of crushed stone (fractions of 5 - 10 mm) are mixed until a homogeneous mass. It is also rational to use ready-made dry mixes. Then water is added in portions.

The optimal ratio of water in the mixture is ¼ of the weight of the cement. It is allowed to introduce a little more water, depending on the crushed stone fraction. The components are mixed until a homogeneous solution. A concrete mixture that retains the given shape after compression in a fist is considered to be optimal in consistency. The solution is then poured into molds.

Pouring the solution into the mold

Forms for pouring tracks can be made independently.

Forms are being prepared. Then the mixture is poured into them up to half. Metal reinforcement (mesh) is laid on the solution, and concrete is added to the upper edge of the mold. The mixture is compacted with a vibrating tool (manual rammer). Then the concrete surface is leveled with a wide spatula.

The blanks are left for 6 - 7 days for the material to harden. It is necessary to exclude direct heating by sunlight, and cover the forms with moisture-absorbing material (burlap), film. During this period, it is necessary to irrigate the stone several times during the day and at night. clean water for a set of standard strength, as well as frost resistance and water resistance. After stripping, the products can be laid on the track.

Reinforcement of concrete slabs

Pavement concrete elements 40 x 40 (50 x 50) cm must be stiffened, which will increase their service life. Better cooker reinforce with steel rods that have their own. In this capacity, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 5 - 8 mm is used.

It is placed in a mold on the first concrete layer of the solution in the form of a cage (welded at the intersection, tied with wire). The ends of the segments should not reach the mold walls by 20 - 30 mm, so that they are completely hidden in the concrete solution. It is also allowed to use a steel wire mesh with a cross section of 1.5 - 2 mm. Reinforcement in molds is poured from above with concrete.

Concrete slab decor

Concrete walkway framed by a border-imitation of clinker bricks.

Plates can become a bright color accent of the landscape in the country. For example, the original color shade of the plate will be given by adding a coloring pigment to the solution ( acrylic paint). Ocher is widely used, added in the ratio: ½ part of ocher, 1 part of white sand, 1 part of cement. As a result, the plate acquires a yellow tint. Brown color in the same proportions gives umber, and green color is given by glauconite greens (proportions of parts: 1, 1, 1).

Stone (marble) chips, colorful glass, river (sea) pebbles, fragments of ceramics are added to the surface layer of the tile (on the bottom of the mold or on the upper surface), beautiful leaves etc. Adding decor is best done before pouring the mold. The coating with marble chips, in addition to an impressive design, will have anti-slip properties. On the upper surface of the workpiece, these elements are strengthened a few hours after the concrete is poured (the beginning of the setting process) by tapping with a mallet. In the same period, a wire stencil can be applied to the "face" of the workpiece, by tapping it through a hard, even surface, an ornament will be formed, pushing the drying solution through its contour.

And a sheet laid on the bottom of the form, for example, chestnut, will create an imprint on the surface of the product (it is removed after stripping). If it is necessary to make the surface of the slabs on the tracks smooth, dry cement (iron) is rubbed into the still wet concrete, which is beginning to set. It is introduced into the material with a spatula, having previously covered the area with an even layer 2–3 mm thick. It also strengthens the top layer of the boards.

Garden driveway or footpath made of concrete - a common element personal plot or cottages. In addition to aesthetic functions, concrete paths are needed to comfortably move around open ground but on a hard, clean finish. Often they are made by hand.

Material, tools

Concrete is one of the most practical and durable materials: it can be given any shape, color, relief surface, it does not crack, does not crumble, it is frost and water resistant. For kneading you will need the following materials:

water, cement and sand;
gravel, crushed stone, pebbles;
stones or decorative elements;
pigment (if you need to give color) and plastic film (several m2).

You will also need a wide range of tools:

concrete mixer or container for mixing the solution;
a sieve for sifting sand or a container for washing it;
shovel, paddle for mixing, boards or formwork;
hammer, nails to create formwork;
rubber mallet, stakes and cords for marking;
long rule, building level;
rammer, cart, trowel, buckets;
Bulgarian, steel sheet, rebar, steel mesh or fiber;
knee pads, gloves.

Some tools and devices may not be needed. For example, if the sand is clean, a sieve is not needed.

General requirements

The right device foundation is important. So, for clay soils and under heavy load, a depth for the base of about 50 cm and a sand cushion of 30 cm are recommended. For heavy soil, a sand-gravel mixture of 30 cm is suitable, the sand layer should be 15 cm in it. Each layer of gravel, crushed stone , sand is well compacted and watered.

The bottom of the trench is compacted and geotextiles are laid. It is also laid between layers - this increases the strength of the base and its service life, since the material is specially created for construction in permafrost conditions. It is very strong and prevents sand leaching, subsidence, eliminates the growth of weeds and passes moisture well.

For paths made of concrete slabs, sand with a fraction of 0–7 mm is taken for the base, it is poured with a layer of 5–7 mm and leveled. If gaps of 2-3 cm need to be made between the plates, then they are covered with fine-grained sand, it is rammed and spilled with water. Concrete paths should be sloped so that water does not linger on them. To do this, they make a base with a slightly convex profile - it is enough to make a slope of 1–2 cm per 1 m of the axis of the track. They also make special drainage. To determine the size of the steps, there is a rule: two step heights plus a depth are equal to a step of 60–70 cm. A path can be created from 40 × 40 cm slabs at a step distance between the centers of the slabs.

The process of creating a track

Let's describe the standard scheme for creating a track and the consumption of materials. The parameters of the base and solution vary depending on the soil of the site.

Foundation preparation

Concrete must be laid correctly, that is, on a sand and gravel layer. Although sometimes, when there are sandy soils, they simply lay them on a well-packed pillow, while the consumption of materials decreases. Work begins with the creation of markup. Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the future track, and the cord is pulled. The top layer of soil is removed. For footpaths, 20 cm is enough, if cars drive along it - 30 cm, for heavy and loamy soils - 40 cm. Then geotextiles are laid on the bottom and slopes.

Half of the trench is filled with sand. If several layers - then a third. In any case, at least 5 cm is desirable for the sandy layer. It is well rammed, spilled with water. The ideal option is the deepening of the trench and the use of several layers: sand / gravel (rubble) / sand. Each layer is overlaid with geotextile.

If there are several layers, then the next one should be gravel. Gravel is taken with a fraction of 10–20 mm, which must be well compacted. In order to properly concrete the track, its dimensions or slabs in m2 and the approximate proportions and consumption of concrete components are calculated.

Form for concrete slabs, formwork

For the manufacture of slabs with their own hands, special plastic molds. If they are not, then you can do it yourself. Plates are often made square with sides of 30–50 cm. For them, wooden forms are created from bars with a section of 50 × 50 and steel sheets. In sum, their volume should be equal to concrete in one batch. The bars are knocked down with nails, polished from the inside and applied with oil paint - so the plate will not get stuck.

A simplified manufacturing method: a mold without a bottom on a plane covered with a film. Concrete walkways can be made using formwork, a temporary wooden structure that shapes the mortar. It is made from a board 15–20 mm wide, which is equal to the height of the track. The path should be slightly above the ground (by 4-5 cm) and with a slope of 1 cm in one or two directions.

The boards are fixed along the edges of the trench - they are pressed against the walls and attached to the marking pegs; the latter should be on the outside. The edge of the boards from below is fixed by means of pegs, and the top - by transverse jumpers, they are nailed to the edges from above - this will prevent the structure from bursting.

It is necessary to separate the plates - too large ones crack. To do this, dividers are mounted after one and a half meters: metal plates, siding trimmings, wooden or plastic planks. If they need to be removed, then before installation they are lubricated with any lubricant (used engine oil).

Calculation of the amount of concrete

The calculation is done using this technology. The area of one slab is determined (in m2). The value in m2 is multiplied by its height. The result is multiplied by the required number of plates. When pouring the site with a single mass, the area in m2 is multiplied by the thickness of the fill. If the plates are laid with gaps, then 5-10% is subtracted from the result.

The standard width of the track in the country will be 0.8 m with a thickness of 5–7 cm, for a track for a car you need 3 m with a thickness of 10 cm. Given this, it is easy to calculate that 1 running meter for a footpath, the consumption of the mixture is 0.5 m3, for the path under the car, the consumption is 0.3 m3 of concrete. From this it follows that 1 m3 of solution is enough for 20 m2 of a footpath or 3.3 m2 for a car.

Composition calculation

Measure the components and proportions with buckets. A standard bag of cement has 50 kg or 38 liters. best expense water will be in the proportion of 1 part of water to 4 cement, but as you stir, you can add a little more water to the composition for better plasticity. Solution and consumption of ingredients for paths without heavy loads (regular path in the patio, in the country): ½.5 / 4 (cement / sand / gravel). In buckets, the proportion will look like this (per 1 m3 of the mixture): 18 - cement (4.7 bags), 45 - sand, gravel - 70.

Car track: 1/1.5/2.5 (cement/sand/gravel). Consumption in buckets: 28 (or 7.3 bags) / 40 / 70. A plasticizer is also added, for example, SP-1, a dye (1–2% by weight of the solution). There is another composition of the solution of durable concrete:

cement M500 and above - 1 part;
sand - 3 parts;
crushed stone - 1 part;
water repellent additives.

kneading

If there is a small concrete mixer, this simplifies the work. If it is not there or the amount of concrete is small, then you can mix it manually. Concreting of tracks is carried out in several stages. To mix the solution, you need a trough, a steel box or just a flat asphalt platform, a sheet of iron. You can use a construction mixer, a puncher with a nozzle.

This technology is standard. First, gravel and sand are mixed, then cement is added - a gray mass is obtained. A recess is made on its top and water is slowly poured in (half of the calculated volume), raking the dry mixture from the edges into the middle. The mixture will become wet. Then again make a recess at the top, and pour out some of the water. Do this several times until the composition becomes the desired consistency.

For the manufacture of mortar, cement grades of at least M300 are recommended. It is best to use river sand - it is clean. Career is desirable to rinse and filter through a sieve. Crushed stone can be taken in the size of 10–20 mm, the best is granite, it is frost-resistant and durable. For heavy loads, a large fraction of 40 mm is suitable.

The thicker the composition, the stronger the concrete, but then it must be well compacted. An excellent solution would be to add a plasticizer - it will make hard concrete more ductile and flowable with less water consumption, which makes it less durable. Such a solution will fill all the cracks.

Reinforcement and pouring

A garden or yard path made of concrete should rise by 3–5 cm. If there is a desire to give the slabs special strength, then reinforcement is used:

the form is filled in half;
put reinforcement. Its role is played by steel bars with a cross section of 5–8 mm or a finished mesh. Polymer fiber is also used, which is added when concrete is mixed.

The solution is leveled and kept for 3-4 days, regularly watered or covered with a damp cloth. When reinforcing, you can limit yourself to a plate thickness of 6–10 cm: such a device eliminates cracking. Otherwise, the thickness of the slab is at least 10–15 cm.

The pouring and tamping of the tracks with concrete takes place in stages from separator to separator. The solution must be poured all at once to the edges of the formwork, the prepared mixture cannot be left for later - this is a guarantee of its cracking.

The top layer is leveled with a rule or a flat board, which rests on the edges of the formwork and rides along them. The rule is to make movements towards yourself along the track, removing excess mixture. When leveling, remember the slope (1 cm by 1 m). You will also need manual tamping, which should be carried out before the appearance of cement milk.

Then the mixture is pierced with a pin, a pipe segment - this is necessary to remove air and increase density. For this, a vibrating rail is also used. If the pebbles are turned out, then they are rolled with a roller. After the concrete is covered with a film from debris, rain, to retain moisture (quick drying leads to cracking). So, the concrete path dries for 4 days, for 5 - the formwork is removed. Until completely dry, it is watered with water, and after drying, the sharp edges are polished with a grinder.

Slab laying

If the path in the country will be subjected to heavy loads (bicycles, cars, a cart with a load), then it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between the plates. You can also leave a gap of 5-6 cm. You can also place plates with an interval of 1 step. Installation process step by step:

pegs and cords make markings;
remove a layer of soil by 10 cm;
the trench is covered half the depth with sand;
slabs are laid on a leveled, rammed base. It is important that each slab lies on the sand cushion with its entire plane and is at the level of other tiles;
tap the plates with a hammer through the board for a good fit;
sand is poured into the cracks. It can also be decorated decoratively.

Plates look good in the country, between which lawn grass grows. Such a path is made on the finished lawn: the turf is cut out, the bottom of the hole is filled with sand so that the slab is flush with the grass.

decoration

For the path in the country beautiful view- very important. To make it beautiful, decorative, pigments (ocher, umber, etc.) are used, it is polished with impregnation, and a pattern is applied with sharp objects. You can decorate using pebbles, fragments of tiles, even buttons. They sink into the surface of the concrete. To do this, a paper sheet is placed at the bottom of the mold, decorative elements are attached to it with glue and poured with a solution. From the finished plate, the paper is washed off with water.

Impregnation with liquid glass (fluoride silicate, sodium, glue) is also popular, which gives a spectacular shine. All impregnations are applied with a brush or spray gun. If desired, you can make large veins and fill them with turf, create roughness with a stiff brush or other devices. Cladding with tiles or marble is very much in demand.

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Concrete slab garden path

A garden path made of concrete slabs is one of the most inexpensive options paving. You can buy pre-made tiles or make your own. And in this case, their color, shape, texture has no boundaries at all, because in fact it depends only on your imagination. For example, look at the multi-colored track in the photo below. And all that is required is to add dyes different colors into solution. Thanks to this variety, it will not be difficult to choose what you like and is suitable for decorating the site.

Laying ready-made concrete slabs

To begin with, the foundation is being prepared. To do this, an even bed of the required depth is dug out (depending on the thickness of the sand and slabs), on which a layer of sand is poured, which is leveled and rammed. Ready-made slabs are laid on the sand, which, for strength, are deepened by gentle blows of a hammer through a wooden board (or you can use a rubber hammer).

If you have sandy soil on the site, and the plates are laid in a joint, then the layer of sand can be 2–3 cm. If the soil is clay or loamy, you first need to lay a layer of gravel or slag, 5–10 cm thick, after which 4–5 see sand. Large, loosely placed, single stones can be placed on the ground without additional foundation preparation.

Another way of laying concrete slabs is laying on a mortar applied to a prepared base. The solution is applied in small portions in the corners and center, and when laying and deepening it is evenly distributed over the entire surface.

Plate arrangement

The location of the plates will depend on the purpose and type of the future track. If this is the main path leading from the street to the main entrance, then the slabs must be stacked one to the other. Rarely used paths may have large gaps between the slabs, which can be filled with earth and sown with grass or flowers. If it is a straight path made of single slabs on the lawn, then the gaps between the slabs should be the same and equal to the length of the average step. Paths laid out of slabs of various shapes look beautiful, and various combinations of slabs with other materials, such as bricks, as in the photo.

Production of concrete slabs

Concrete slabs are easily made on their own in wooden moulds, or directly on the ground using plastic, metal or wood templates. The ease of manufacturing concrete slabs makes it possible to carry out a planned project from start to finish, starting with the shape of the slabs, ending with the pattern of their laying. You can make square, rectangular, triangular tiles and paint them to match the color of stone, brick or any other color. The top layer can be decorated with pieces of ceramics, colored glass, granite or marble chips. You can lay out the drawing you like from improvised materials.

For the manufacture of plates, wooden forms are used independently knocked together from boards and bars. The bars are best connected using grooves that make it easy to assemble and disassemble the structure. The size of the plates is usually chosen in the region of 50x50, 40x60, 5–8 cm thick and with steel lattice reinforcement with a diameter of 5–8 mm. Before pouring concrete, wooden forms must be lubricated with any technical oil or drying oil.

For casting round slabs, you can use scraps of large metal pipes, barrels, buckets with a cut bottom.

Reinforcement, in order to be in the middle of the slab, should be placed in the mold after it is half filled with mortar. After that, the form is completely filled, the concrete is compacted and the surface is leveled. During the process, keep an eye on the armature so that it is completely submerged.

If you want to create a smooth, kind of polished surface, then you need to: pour a layer of dry cement in an even layer 5–7 mm thick on the still damp surface of the mortar and rub it with a metal trowel until the cement is saturated with water and the surface layer is perfectly smooth.

The plates should be in the forms for at least 2-3 days, until they are completely hardened. At the same time, they should be closed from direct sunlight and moistened daily with water from a watering can.

To give different colors dry mineral dyes are added to the concrete mortar, or multi-colored pebbles are added to the top layer of concrete. When using colorants, remember that white cement and white quartz sand must be used. The coloring consists of two parts: the selected dye is poured evenly on the newly poured solution, after which it is rubbed with a metal trowel. Upon completion, the identical operation is repeated.

To apply a pattern, an interesting pattern can be made from a hard wire, which is pressed 2–3 mm into a slightly dried solution. If you decide to decorate the surface with some pebbles, rubble, bat ceramic tiles or other small filler (2-3 cm in diameter), then for this, pour the filler in an even layer on the leveled solution and carefully rub it with the same metal trowel. After the first hardening of the solution, the outer side of the filler is cleaned of the solution with a brush and water. If the decoration material is large enough, it should be laid out on the surface, and then evenly partially pressed with a board. Don't forget to wash them the same way.

Monolithic concrete walkway

The monolithic concrete walkway is distinguished by its high strength. It should be done, for example, from the gate to the garage or other places that involve serious loads. Although, of course, they can be made throughout the site, decorating with any of the methods described above. To make such a path, the future route is first marked, after which a bed is dug out with a depth of at least 15 cm, which is carefully compacted. On the sides of the bed, it is necessary to make formwork from boards 2–2.5 cm thick. It is also made across with an interval of 1.5–2 m. concrete to formwork level. The concrete surface must be leveled wooden lath, the edges of which rest on the formwork. Given that concrete expands after pouring, hollow joints should be left through each meter of the concrete surface, which will be filled later.

After leveling with a board, the concrete surface must be smoothed with a trowel. When the concrete dries a little, it is passed over with a dense brush to roughen the surface. After the track is covered with plastic wrap to protect it from rain, as well as for uniform drying. In summer, the path can be walked on 5 days after pouring, in winter no earlier than 10 days. Heavy loads should not be transported for at least 2 weeks. At the same time, formwork is being stripped and a curb is being installed. It can also be installed before concrete is poured, with inside formwork. The choice of material for the border is quite extensive. You can read more here - a curb for a garden path, and about other types of garden paths.

That's all. As you can see, a garden path made of concrete slabs is made without much difficulty, we hope that this article was useful to you.

remont-i-obustroystvo.ru

Pavement concrete slabs

Concrete is used not only in capital construction. Affordable, durable and strong fake diamond widely used as an element of landscape design in the arrangement of paths around cottages, garden houses. It is not always justified to lay paving slabs or other purchased material next to the house. Often a rational solution is to manufacture original decorated concrete slabs.

Do-it-yourself concrete slabs

Form creation

Fantasy and expediency (path width) will tell you what shape to give to the plates that will fill the path in the country. The simplest option is a square slab 40 x 40 (50 x 50) cm. It can also have a rectangular, hexagonal, triangular, trapezoid and other shapes. An interesting option may be the alternation of plates of various shapes and sizes. Concrete flooring may consist of irregularly shaped elements, which will correspond, for example, to the design of flower beds, a garden in a country house.

Useful, for example, steel hoops from cracked barrels, other improvised materials that can be arbitrarily bent. The bottom is attached to such a closed strip, and the form is ready. It will be interesting to look at the track of round elements of different sizes. Buckets, pans, as well as short, up to 8 cm, cuts of metal pipes, etc., can become shaping equipment. The most accessible for manufacturing and convenient for use is a wooden form.

The design of the track and the creation of forms for the plates depends on your imagination and skill.

In work, it is advisable to use several molds at once in order to cast the plates with a stream. Their repeated use is facilitated by the impregnation of wood with hot drying oil, so the bars will retain their shape for a long time. After the concrete has gained strength, the temporary formwork from the tile should be easily removed and disassembled. This is helped by coating the wooden elements and the bottom of the form with drying oil (technical oil) immediately before pouring the concrete mix.

Preparation of concrete solution

Pouring the solution into the mold

Forms for pouring tracks can be made independently.

The blanks are left for 6 - 7 days for the material to harden. It is necessary to exclude direct heating by sunlight, and cover the forms with moisture-absorbing material (burlap), film. During this period, it is necessary to irrigate the stone with clean water several times day and night to gain standard strength, as well as frost resistance and water resistance. After stripping, the products can be laid on the track.

Reinforcement of concrete slabs

Pavement concrete elements 40 x 40 (50 x 50) cm must be stiffened, which will increase their service life. It is better to reinforce the plate with steel rods, which have their own elasticity. In this capacity, a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 5 - 8 mm is used.

Concrete slab decor

Concrete walkway framed by a border-imitation of clinker bricks.

Plates can become a bright color accent of the landscape in the country. For example, the original color shade of the plate will give the addition of a coloring pigment (acrylic paint) to the solution. Ocher is widely used, added in the ratio: ½ part of ocher, 1 part of white sand, 1 part of cement. As a result, the plate acquires a yellow tint. Brown color in the same proportions gives umber, and green color gives glauconite greens (proportions of parts: 1, 1, 1).

Stone (marble) chips, multi-colored glass, river (sea) pebbles, ceramic fragments, beautiful leaves, etc. are added to the surface layer of the tile (at the bottom of the mold or on the upper surface). It is better to add decor before pouring the mold. The coating with marble chips, in addition to an impressive design, will have anti-slip properties. On the upper surface of the workpiece, these elements are strengthened a few hours after the concrete is poured (the beginning of the setting process) by tapping with a mallet. In the same period, a wire stencil can be applied to the "face" of the workpiece, by tapping it through a hard, even surface, an ornament will be formed, pushing the drying solution through its contour.

Technology of laying concrete slabs

The place where the track passes through the site is freed from obstacles and traced with twine. The earth is removed to a depth of 100 to 200 mm, taking into account the exit of the plates above the surface by 3 - 4 cm. The bottom of the trench is rammed, a sand cushion 50 - 150 mm thick is laid on top. For clayey (loamy) soils, fine gravel is first poured (up to 10 cm layer), then slag, followed by sand (a layer of 5 cm). In areas with increased load, the slabs are laid closely in one or more rows with a gap of about 30 mm.

The immobility of their installation in the sand is increased by tapping with a rubber mallet. The smoothness of the upper level of the track is set by the rule and the level. Sand is poured between the slabs. To remove precipitation, it is desirable to mount a storm drain. Path elements are also installed on a cement mortar, which is applied to the center and corners of the tiles.

When installed and pressed, the solution is evenly distributed under the surface. Installing flooring elements on the lawn (ground) apart involves cutting a layer of turf (creating a recess) along the contour of the plates. In the latter case, the grass is planted later. Other operations are the same as described above. The distance between the plates is consistent with the length of the average step. An alternative design is when, after a while, part of the slabs is removed, and mini-flower beds are broken in their place.

Conclusion

The simplicity and richness of the options for manufacturing and decorating concrete slabs allow you to create an individual original design of paths to the house and on garden plot. It is important to observe the technology of work and show imagination.

kladembeton.ru

Do-it-yourself garden paths from slabs without concreting - catalog of articles on the site - DomStroy

Garden paths should not be expensive - this applies to both materials and work on the coating device. In addition, since not everyone knows how to concrete, let alone lay paving slabs or paving stones, I want to find a variant of a beautiful and even impressive path that does not require special skills.

One of them is a garden path made of concrete square slabs, heavy enough that they do not move underfoot and without fixing with mortar.

Materials for garden paths from slabs

Concrete slabs - dimensions 40x40 cm or 50x50 cm;
Screening of crushed stone for the base under the slabs - the smaller the fraction, the better;
Crushed stone for backfilling between the plates.
Film, geotextiles - if the path is made on the ground (so that grass does not grow in the seams between the plates). If the path is being built on an old asphalt surface (renovating an old path), the film is not needed.

Pavement slabs, concrete

Border blocks for paths and flower beds

Garden paths - step by step guide

We are marking the path. Its width should be such that the plates fit between the curbs, plus we take into account the width of the seams.

We arrange borders on both sides of the future track. The easiest way is to lay them out of curb or building blocks by digging grooves along the width of the block.

A solid curb can be cast from concrete. For this:

we pour crushed stone with sand at the bottom of the ditch;
install formwork;
we pour concrete into the formwork, laying reinforcing bars.

Level and compact the bottom of the track.

We fall asleep a pillow from the elimination of crushed stone. If we do not make the track from scratch, but update the old one, level its surface by adjusting the thickness of the screening layer. Compact the pillow if possible.

If we make a garden path on the ground, we cover the screening layer with a film / geotextile.

We lay the plates.

From above we fill the seams between the plates with small gravel.

Pour the path with water, compact the rubble with a piece of wood / rail.

Agree, the track turned out to be luxurious.

Each owner of a garden or country house wants to build an original garden path on the site. At the same time, there is a desire to fulfill it with minimal cost funds. You can make stone, brick paths on your own.

Also an excellent solution to the problem is a garden path made of concrete. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, you can decorate it in your own way and save on the cost of materials and work.

Types of garden paths

In order for the path to organically fit into the surrounding landscape, it is necessary to choose the material from which it will be made that matches the design and style of the yard and house. In addition, such a base should be durable, practical and not demanding to care for.

Tracks can be divided into the following types:

unpaved, paved (cobblestone),
crushed stone,
herbal,
gravel,
clinker (brick),
stone (natural stone),
end, tiled (concrete slabs and tiles),
monolithic concrete.

The first four types require relatively constant maintenance, and hard-covered paths, including a do-it-yourself concrete path, last a long time, are clean and tidy, beautiful, and more practical.

The specific type of garden paths is selected based on functional purpose, the style of the yard and the preferences of the owners.

Concrete garden paths

Monolithic concrete paths are distinguished by high strength, they are resistant to deformation, they do not burst even when a car moves along them. Therefore, such bases are excellent for vehicles, from the entrance gate to outbuildings.

Concrete paths are the cheapest at cost, but require some effort and labor. But it's worth it. In addition, the owner gets satisfaction from the fact that the concrete path is made with his own hands. It strikes with a variety of a form, color, a pattern. Also, the texture of concrete allows you to combine it with other materials: brick, stone, cobblestone or other finishes.

Benefits of a concrete walkway

The advantages that a do-it-yourself concrete garden path has are due to the qualities of the material used. The positive characteristics of concrete are as follows:

strength and durability - concrete products are not pressed through and are not deformed;
ease of use - does not require the use of special equipment;
low cost - the cost of 1 sq.m. is approximately 25 rubles;
high resistance to climatic influences of any kind: frost, heat, moisture;
resistance to aggressive environments- not afraid of spilled chemicals;
the ability to withstand large mechanical loads - makes it possible to transport garden loads along the paths without fear;
versatility of use - a large platform can be built, or a garden path with your own hands without professional craftsmen;
Concrete can be made different forms: straight and curved (depending on the formwork), it can be painted and decorated, combined with many other materials.

What is the width of the path?

First of all, the width of the track is a multiple of the width of the tile, if one is used.

A path with a total width of about half a meter can be built on secondary paths, for example, on the approach to a greenhouse: there is enough space for the passage of one person and the passage of a one-wheeled wheelbarrow.

On a path up to 80 cm wide, a couple of people can hardly pass each other, a children's bike will pass. But there will be little space for an electric car. Such a path can be built to outbuildings.

The central paths need to be made fully functional, from about a meter with a small to one and a half meters wide. Two people can easily pass here, children will pass by in their own transport, and even a small bench will be placed.

Walkways made of prefabricated concrete tiles

Concrete slabs or small tiles are the easiest and fastest way to make a concrete garden path with your own hands. Reviews say that this is also the easiest way to lay out a track.

The technology of their laying is as follows:

Prepare the base: level the ground, make markings.
Spread agrofibre or geotextile to isolate sand from the ground.
Cover the base with a five-centimeter layer of river wet (not wet!) Sand, level and compact. River sand contains less clay, so it passes water better.
Start laying tiles one by one. So that the plates do not move when walking on them, it is necessary to deepen them by hitting them with a hammer through wooden plank carefully so as not to split. Check the laying with a level.
Tile joints are rubbed with cement or sand.

If the plates are laid end-to-end on sandy soils, then a layer of sand is poured in 3 cm. On loamy and clay soils, gravel or slag 7-10 cm thick is first poured, and then sand with a layer of 5 cm.

Also, the plates can be laid on the solution, which is applied to the sand cushion. The solution is placed in fragments at the corners of the tile and in the middle, when laid and pressed, it is distributed evenly under the entire surface.

Track using a shape

Today, forms for making garden paths are very popular: wooden, plastic, metal. They have multiple cells different sizes and shapes (squares, rectangles, triangles, hexagons or irregular configuration) and are used to lay out track fragments.

To assess the speed of such work, you need to know that with the help of ready-made forms, approximately six meters of the track can be built in two hours. Forms can be purchased ready-made, or you can make your own.

To obtain round slabs for pouring, use pieces of metal pipes or buckets without a bottom, you get an original garden path.

With their own hands, large slabs are also cast from concrete with a frame of 7 mm reinforcement laid in the form of a lattice. Before pouring, the form is lubricated with technical oil or drying oil. The reinforcement is laid in such a way that the solution covers it from below and from above. After rammed.

Materials and tools for monolithic pouring

In order to be made of concrete, you will need the following tools and materials:

sand;
agrofibre;
M400;
coarse steel mesh;
knitting wire 2 mm thick;
in order to improve elasticity and waterproofing properties;
pieces of sheet iron, plywood or boards at least 25 cm wide;
wooden or reinforcing pegs;
rope;
polyethylene film;
a container for mixing the solution;
shovel and bayonet shovels;
trowel with a width of half a meter;
large hammer or sledgehammer;
small construction tools: spatulas of various sizes and trowels.

Material calculation

An example of calculating the required amount of materials for a part of the central track with a length and width of one meter and a thickness of 10 cm:

The thickness of the layer of sand for bedding is 10 cm. The required volume of sand will be as follows:

multiply the length, width and thickness, you get 0.10 m3;
according to reference data, sand with a volume of 1 m3 weighs 2.4 tons;
recalculate to the required volume: 2400 kg / m3 x 0.10 m3 \u003d 240 kg.

2. It is important to choose the right concrete composition for garden paths. The path made with your own hands will not crack if you use the following proportions for the solution:

1 part water
1 part cement
4 parts sand.

The volume of cement required is calculated similarly to sand and is equal to the same value: 0.10 m3. According to the reference book, a cubic meter of concrete mixed with sand weighs 2.8 tons. For one meter of the track it will be: 2800 kg / m3 x 0.1 m3 \u003d 280 kg. Dividing the resulting value by 5 (we do not take into account water), we get the weight of the cement: 56 kg.

The remaining value of 224 kg is the weight of water and sand intended for concrete mixing.

Based on the weight of materials to make tracks with a thickness of 5 cm or 7 cm, the resulting weight value must be multiplied by a factor of 0.5 or 0.7, respectively.

Do-it-yourself concrete path: instructions

Filling a monolithic track is divided into the following stages:

First, planning is done on a piece of paper with drawing all the elements of the yard, buildings, paths, preferably on a scale.
The next step is to calculate the amount of materials: it depends on the soil. On clay soils, a half-meter layer of concrete is sufficient, and on light and loose soils, it is necessary to make a layer of one meter. For swampy soils, you still need to make a half-meter gravel drainage layer before laying concrete.
Marking is carried out by placing pegs according to the plan. A thick rope is stretched between the pegs.
According to the markup, the turf is cut with a shovel and a trench is dug. Its depth should be approximately 20 cm, and if gravel drainage is arranged, then 25 cm. All plant remains must be carefully removed.
Next, formwork is installed, which should be 10 cm above the ground. From the outside, it fits snugly against the walls of the trench, and from the inside, it is reinforced with pegs.
Agrofibre is laid on the bottom of the prepared trench so that the sand does not go into the ground, and the sand itself is poured and compacted on it. This is necessary for water drainage. For better compaction, the sand cushion is wetted.
Lay on top of the sand polyethylene film, without holes. This is necessary so that the concrete does not dry immediately, but acquires the desired strength.
Knead the solution by adding waterproofing impurities to it.
At the bottom put and lay out the solution. Compact, level with a shovel, and then with a trowel. The middle of the path is arranged raised by 3 cm to drain water during rain. Expansion joints are made through each linear meter, then the laid out garden path made of concrete with your own hands will not crack and deform depending on weather conditions.
The track is covered with a film for a couple of days. Then the film and formwork are removed. During drying, the concrete is moistened with water.
The sides are clogged with earth and rammed. Irregularities from pegs are sealed with concrete.

When making the path in the summer, you can walk along it after five days, winter period— after ten.

Path decoration

Do-it-yourself laid garden path made of concrete, photo examples of which can be found in in large numbers, to give originality can be decorated.

Suitable options are:

at the stage of mixing the solution, add a color pigment to it;
dry dye can also be added while smoothing the surface with a trowel;
after the concrete has hardened for three hours, pieces of glass, ceramics, brick, natural stone, marble chips are pressed into it;
grass or flowers can be sown in the gaps between the plates or expansion joints;
the surface of the track can be decorated with a relief pattern, which is applied when the concrete is not yet completely frozen;
to obtain a polished surface, the latter is ironed: dry cement is applied to the wet mortar with a layer of 6 mm, then rubbed with a trowel.

Installation of curbs

If a do-it-yourself made of concrete runs along the flower garden, then it is not necessary to highlight it with a border. Other paths with edging look more spectacular. The border can be made of brick or paving stones, or the edging elements can be cast independently.

The border is especially useful when laying concrete tiles, as it needs a limiter. It is because of the role of the limiter that the installation of the curb is a responsible task. It is designed to keep the tile from moving around under loads. If the curb is poorly fixed, then the tiles will begin to diverge over time, and the do-it-yourself concrete garden path will lose its original appearance. For strength, the curb is installed on a concrete strip base (or simply on the ground) and supported by pegs from the outside.

The distance between the curb and the tile should be minimal, and the laying should be as dense as possible.

Paving slabs are a modern material that is optimally suited for the improvement of your own site. The product is easy to install and does not require laborious maintenance. Unlike asphalt pavement, concrete paving can be successfully combined with various vegetation.

When arranging garden paths, you should determine the texture, color, shape of the flooring and think over the rhythm of paving. This will allow you to create a real composition on own site and emphasize the style of the space. Concrete elements are a practical and convenient solution. They provide free access to key objects, connect garden areas, and ensure neatness and cleanliness.

What to consider when bookmarking:

paths should connect buildings and structures;
the approach should be comfortable;
you should consider whether decorative, walking or reserve paths are necessary, their duration and width;
when laying, take into account the drainage of water into the drainage. The transverse slope ensures that the liquid flows into special troughs.

The introduction of special additives into the composition of concrete makes it possible to protect the finished product from cracking and delamination. Fiber fibers and plasticizers are considered effective

Shapes and sizes

To organize landscaping own dacha or garden, you should determine what size of products will be used.

The values prescribed by the standard are indicated in the tabular data:

brand	The form	Length, mm	Width, mm	Thickness, mm	Weight, kg	Pieces/m²
1K.6/1K.8/1.K.5	Square	200.00		50.00	7.68	25.00
2K.5		250.00			15.00	16.00
2K.6		250.0/280.0			11.30	12.75
2K.10		250.00			15.00	16.00
3K.6/3K.10/3K.5		300.00			21.00	11.10
4K.7/4K.10/4K.5		375.00			33.75	7.16
5K.7/5K.10/5K.5		400.00			38.40	6.25
6K.7/6K.10.6K.5		500.00			60.00	4.00
7К.8/7К.10/7К.6		750.00		60.00	135.0	1.78
8K.10/8K.8		1000.0		80.00	240.0	1.00
Rectangular slabs
1P.5/1P.6	Rectangle	375.00	250.00	50.00	22.50	10.67
1P.7		240.00	120.00	70.00	4.80	34.72
1P.10		375.00	250.00	50.00	22.50	10.67
2P.7/2P.10/2P.5		500.00	250.00		30.00	8.00
3P.7/3P.10/3P.5		500.00	375.00		45.00	5.33
4P.7/4P.10/4P.6		750.00	375.00	60.00	67.50	3.68
5P.7/5P.10/5P.6		750.00	500.00	60.00	90.00	2.70
6P.10/6P.8		1000.00	500.00	80.00	150.4	2.00

Decoration options

Reinforced paving slabs are an economical material that will cost less than natural stone paving. Modern products are distinguished by a wide variety of textures and colors, which allows you to make the option that best suits your needs. stylistic design cottage or garden. Outwardly, it can remain neutral, so it is easily combined with brick, natural stone, cobblestone.

Placement depends on the purpose of the site or track:

if the path is laid from the street to the house, the products are tightly stacked to each other;
if the path is rarely used, the slabs can be mounted with gaps, which are sown with annual flowers or ornamental grass;
when arranging open terraces, recreation areas, areas around pools in the laying of slabs, recesses can be made for planting undersized shrubs and flowers;
the distance between the plates should be the same, taking into account the length of the standard step.

decoration

The step of an adult is taken as a standard, which is about 0.74 meters

installation of slabs with stone or clinker joints;
staining concrete in any color;
adding marble or stone chips, colored glass, metal or ceramic elements, pebbles, flat stones to the top layer;
decoration of plates with a relief pattern.

Tracks can be straight or curved. In the latter case, you can visually expand small plot, but requires too much effort. Aesthetic appeal can only be achieved if the path is equipped with curbs.

Coloring

There are two ways to color concrete slabs - adding pigment to the working solution, coloring finished products. The introduction of pigments is a more expensive option based on the use of special dyes and white Portland cement.

Painting the finished track is carried out using special formulations, which differ in penetrating action. To obtain a rich shade, the plates are processed several times.

The technology of painting the finished concrete path

To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

water or acrylic stain;
film;
sealant for concrete;
spray gun;
paint roller.

In addition to decorating, it is necessary to organize the protection of concrete slabs, for which dry cement is rubbed into their surface.

Sequencing:

the working surface is thoroughly cleaned, freed from dust, debris. If necessary, the plates are washed using special degreasing detergents;
the length and width of the slab are measured, which will allow you to calculate the paint consumption;
walls located next to the path, flower beds, lawns, trees are covered with a film;
the dye is placed in the spray gun;
coloring starts from any angle. It is recommended to keep the device at a height of 50-60 cm from the processed concrete slab;
2-3 layers of dye are applied sequentially. Before spraying each subsequent coating, it is shown to wait for the previous one to dry;
when applied finishing layer, the track should dry well, so it cannot be used for about two days;
dry coating can be sealed with sealant to protect the color. When working, use a roller for painting work with a short pile.

With the help of paint, the plates are decorated under a natural stone. The paint is applied to the surface in uneven layers. Some areas should be translucent, others densely colored. The alternation of dark and light areas should be random, which will allow you to get a natural coverage.

Surface decoration with drawings

The easiest way to design finished plates is to apply a pattern to the surface. The work is carried out on the second day after pouring, when the solution did not have time to lose plasticity. With a screwdriver or a thin steel bar, closed figures are cut out on the product, imitating limestone, with a depth and width of slots of about 5.0 -7.0 mm. During operation, soil accumulates in the gaps, which makes it possible to achieve a complete illusion of masonry.

stamped concrete

Plates look very beautiful, the surface of which is processed using special matrices. Before embossing, a tinting fixative is applied to the uncured surface of the product. The finished track acquires a texture that successfully imitates natural materials , - boardwalk, slate, paving stones. To protect the coating from abrasion, it is treated with acrylic impregnation.

Decoration with pebbles, ceramics, glass

The cost of products varies depending on regional pricing and manufacturer

Such design is implemented according to the following principles:

per sheet thick paper with a guide to the future drawing, decorative elements are glued;
when working, water-soluble glue is used;
paper is set in a mold and poured with concrete;
when the material hardens, the paper base is washed off with water.

If a corrugated metal sheet substrate is placed in the mold, the plate can be given a relief texture.

glossy shine

Country paths can be purchased spectacular shine if impregnated with potassium or sodium liquid glass . Such compositions are characterized by high adhesion and allow the formation of a durable coating. Alternatively, synthetic resin or wax formulations can be used. Impregnations fill the pores of concrete, protecting it from the action of destructive environments, weathering, and moisture.. All substances are applied with a spray gun or brush. The method of breeding depends on the manufacturer's recommendations, so you must strictly follow the instructions.

Concrete slabs for paths, price

In private construction it is convenient to use paving slabs 500x500 mm- for arranging paths general purpose and paving slabs 1000x1000 - for the organization of sites and entry zones. Products can be made independently or purchased ready-made.

If we consider the construction of tracks from similar materials in terms of economic costs, then concrete slabs 50x50, the price does not exceed 70 r / piece.; paving slabs 1000x1000 will cost more, the price per piece reaches 850 rubles. If you make the product yourself, you can save about 30% of the cost.

With strict adherence to technology, you can get a material that meets the specified qualities:

resistance to aggressive compounds, oil products, chemicals;
resistance to mechanical stress and abrasion;
the ability to withstand constant loads and temperature changes (up to 300 freezing cycles);
resistance to ultraviolet radiation.

Concrete slabs are a modern material that can be an excellent alternative to other types of coatings.

How to make concrete paths in the garden with your own hands from slabs is shown in the video: