What is better to make the floor in the steam room: tips, instructions, diagrams and videos. Floor in the washing room from tiles in the bath Concrete floor installation in the steam room and washing room

23.06.2020

Since the washing room belongs to one of the main rooms in the bath building, work on its device must be carried out in full accordance with the technology, taking into account the slightest nuances. Even a minor mistake can worsen operating parameters washing department. Particular attention deserves the solution of the question of how to make the floor in washing bath right.

The conditions under which the flooring in the washing room is used are characterized by the constant presence of advanced level humidity and frequent temperature changes. In the process of designing a bath and during its construction, this should be taken into account.

Requirements for flooring in a car wash

In order for the floor in the bath in the washing room to be made with high quality and last long enough, it must meet a number of requirements:

quickly and completely drain water, for which the floor covering is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole or equipped according to the so-called leaking technology. Naturally, you can make a drain in the bath with your own hands, without involving specialists;
well ventilated and dry quickly;
be resistant to high humidity and temperature changes;
it should be laid so as to exclude the possibility of drafts.

Varieties of floor coverings in the washroom

In private households, in the washing departments of baths, wooden (they are leaking / non-leaking) and concrete floor structures are usually laid.

As practice shows, the simplest option in terms of implementation is the leaking floor shown in the photo. On a prearranged basis, which may be concrete screed, lower crown, support pillars, etc., fasten the logs - they will become the basis for mounting the flooring from the boards.

Floor elements are laid at intervals of 3-5 millimeters. It is through these gaps that water will be drained. Usually leaking flooring is made collapsible. This design allows, if necessary, to remove the flooring and qualitatively dry the boards outdoors.

The leaky version, which is easy to perform and inexpensive in price, has a significant drawback - it cannot be insulated. When a bath is being built, the floors in the washing room, made in this way, can be mounted without creating a slope. Water will flow out through the gaps between the boards, and then go into the soil under the building.

When creating a non-leaking floor of wood materials, its elements are laid without gaps. This design does not provide for parsing boards. It is equipped with a slope in the direction of the drain hole. Further, the water enters the water collector and is discharged through the pipeline outside the building.

A non-leaking floor in the bath in the washing department requires the presence of a rough base and the laying of a layer of thermal insulation. Particular attention should be paid to solving the problem of ventilation of the underground space. One or more holes are made in the floor for ventilation - their number depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Plastic pipes with a cross section of 50 or 100 millimeters are inserted into them.

By the way, when a bathhouse is being built, warm floors in the washing room are created precisely without leaking.

Concrete floors in the washroom are made quite often, as they have many advantages:

simple device;
durability, strength and reliability;
unpretentiousness in care.

There are several ways to solve this problem:

move around in special shoes;
insulate the floor;
install a floor heating system, which will require considerable cash costs.

Technology for arranging a wooden floor

When deciding how to cover the floor in the bath in the washroom, many of their owners opt for wooden flooring. The work is carried out in stages (in more detail: "").

First, prepare the base. To do this, lags are mounted using a beam made of pine or larch. It is desirable to make flooring from boards, in which the material of manufacture must match the log wood. The floor covering (not leaking) is made with a slope, due to which water flows into the drain.

Lags are mounted along the width of the washing compartment, thereby choosing the smallest distance between the opposite walls. In the case when the room is square, they can be installed in any direction.

Log installation procedure:

In order for them to become stable, in the center of each of them a supporting chair is made of bricks, wood or using concrete pouring. When using brick or wood, you need to fill in a special platform with a height of 20 centimeters or more with reinforcement. It should be of such dimensions that it protrudes 5 centimeters from each side of the created support.
Pits under the base are dug 40 centimeters deep for each site. The bottom and walls are rammed. Sand is poured into the recess with a 10-centimeter layer and 15 centimeters of gravel. Formwork is made from edged boards, its height should exceed the ground level by 5 centimeters. A roofing material is laid along the edges of the pit, a concrete solution is prepared and the formwork is poured with a layer of 10-15 centimeters. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. From above, it is again poured with concrete to the very upper edge of the formwork (in more detail: ""). Within a few days, the sites should dry.
Heated bitumen is applied to the surface of the concrete base and a layer of roofing material is placed.
When laying out a brick support, 4 rows are enough. Laying is carried out using a standard solution. Support is required for each lag.
At the next stage, the underground is prepared, or rather the ground in this place of the structure. During the construction of a leaking floor structure, when the composition of the soil allows moisture to pass through, crushed stone is poured into the underground with a 25-cm layer and rammed. As a result, water will seep between the flooring elements into the existing gaps, penetrate into the soil through the backfill and be absorbed. Crushed stone in this case will act as a filter.
If the soil does not absorb moisture well, it is necessary to equip a tray in it to divert water into the catchment area.
When implementing a non-leaking structure, you need to decide how to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in the washroom underground. It is best to use expanded clay, observing a 15 cm gap between the lags and the backfill.
A pit 30 centimeters high and 40-50 centimeters wide is dug near the wall. Its walls are rammed and strengthened with clay. A pipe is led out of the pit under a slope, for example, into the sewer. It is necessary to use products with a diameter of at least 11 centimeters for the fastest removal of liquid.
The installation of the lag begins, they are fixed with anchors. In this case, it is necessary to observe a 30-40 mm distance between the walls and the logs. Before the beginning installation work the mortgage crown should be covered with roofing material. The beam for lags is additionally treated with an antiseptic composition.
In the process of fixing the lag, you need to monitor their horizontal location. If necessary, they are hemmed at the point of contact with the support. It is also necessary to control the ratio of the lag to each other using the level.

Then proceed to the flooring of the wooden coating. The device of the floor in the bath in the washing room according to the flowing option is performed using unedged boards. Flooring elements should be pre-trimmed. It is necessary to make the most even surface from the end of the boards. Better yet, buy trimmed products.

Lay in the washing room wooden bath floors in a flowing way in the following sequence:

The boards are cut taking into account the parameters of the room, observing the ventilation gap between adjacent flooring elements and walls with a minimum size of 20 millimeters.
The floor surface is laid from any wall, placing the floorboards parallel to it. 20 millimeters recede from the selected wall and put the first board on the logs, nailing it. The length of fasteners is selected in accordance with the thickness of the flooring. For example, 4 cm elements require 8 cm nails.
Fasteners are driven in correctly, stepping back from the edge of the board about 15 millimeters. In this case, the nails must be set at an angle of 40 degrees. At least two fasteners should be used to fix one board.
When the first bar is fixed, proceed to the installation of the second. The recommended gap between adjacent boards should be at least 3 mm. All flooring elements are fixed according to the described technology.
Proceed to the final processing of the floor (more: ""). Even two layers of drying oil will be enough. It is better to refuse staining.

When arranging a non-leaking floor, a tongue and groove board is used. The flooring elements are laid with a groove inside the room. In the process of fitting, you should tap with a mallet on the end with a groove. If you do not follow this rule, the tongue may break, because it is 2 times thinner than the fabric of the product. Here, in the future, a plastic font for a bath, which is now found in baths more and more often, can be installed.

A non-leaking floor in a sink in a wooden bath or other type of bath building is equipped as follows:

First of all, make a rough base. Along the edges of the bottom of the mounted logs, wooden bars 5x5 centimeters in size are nailed. Boards of a rough base are laid on them, for which wood of 2-3 grades can be used. They are fixed with nails.
Further waterproofing of the floor in the bath in the washing room is provided. To do this, for example, roofing material or a dense film is laid over the rough base.
Install thermal insulation. Best Choice thermal insulation material you can call expanded clay, which is poured between the lags. A second layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation.
At the final stage, they begin to create a finishing flooring from grooved boards. Laying is carried out according to the same technology as in the case of a leaky floor covering, but the floor elements are fixed without gaps.
Refusal to fasten boards with nails is allowed. Then they can be removed in order to be taken out of the garbage room for the purpose of drying. In this case, a special method is used: the floorboards are fixed along the edges with the help of bars, which, in turn, are attached to the logs with capercaillie screws. When the need arises, they are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and dried outside the garbage.

Ventilation design device

The simplest method of solving the problem of ventilating the space between the rough base and the fine finish of the floor is to create holes to which pipes are attached that bring water out of the washing room.

There is another way to create ventilation - this is the installation of multi-level floors. Therefore, in each room they make a floor structure of different heights. For example, in the washing room, the floor surface will be lower than in the dressing room by 3 millimeters.

Option one is the most popular among developers, while the order of work is as follows:

In the corners of the washing room at the base of the floor, holes are left for laying ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters. The material used to make them may vary.
Install ventilation pipes after finishing the walls in the room. Products with a diameter of not more than 5 centimeters can be disguised under the skin. Larger pipes should be installed in bath buildings that are visited more than twice a week. They are mounted in the corners of the room, attached to the surface of the walls with the help of special clamps.

Arrangement of a concrete floor

A floor covering created using a concrete mixture will last more than 25 years, while a wooden floor and logs will last only 6-10 years. But the installation of the screed is a laborious process, since it will be necessary to purchase or prepare a solution and pour it in, making reinforcement. You will also need to lay thermal insulation and perform other measures.

The procedure for pouring concrete floors:

First, a pit is prepared, where water from the washing room will flow. To make it, they make a hole. In the pit, a pipe with a diameter of 15-20 centimeters is laid and taken out into the gutter, sewerage system or other similar place. The dimensions of the pit depend on the area of the room.
The soil is leveled and broken bricks are poured onto it with a 15-centimeter layer. Gravel is placed on top of it with a layer of 10 centimeters, after which it is tamped. In other backfill options, crushed stone is used first, and then sand or broken brick and sand. All methods are considered correct.
For waterproofing, roofing material or other similar rolled material is laid on top of the backfill in one layer, not forgetting the need to make a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. To ensure complete sealing, the joints and seams are treated with bitumen.
On top of the waterproofing material, a heater is poured - expanded clay. The thickness of this layer depends on the climate in a particular region. Most often, the backfill is made 5-10 centimeters high. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the expanded clay, preferably with cells of 15x15 centimeters, assembled from bars with a cross section of 10 - 12 millimeters. At the intersection, they are fastened with a flexible knitting wire. Mesh for reliability is fixed cement mortar. Before pouring, guides are fixed on the base.

At the end of the work, filling sand-cement screed level, distributing the mixture evenly over the surface. For smoothing, use, for example, a piece of edged board. To prepare the solution, it is desirable to use expanded sand (perlite). When using it, it is important to observe correct proportions.

The solution is made as follows:

2 buckets of perlite are poured into a container (concrete mixer or trough) and 10 liters of water are poured. Everything is well mixed.
Then add ½ part of a 10-liter bucket of expanded sand, mix the mass for 10-15 minutes, pour in 5 liters of water. Kneading is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
Then a bucket of perlite is poured and 2 liters of water are poured. The result should be an almost loose composition. Water should not be added. After the mass is infused for 10 minutes, it will become plastic.

The finished mass is laid and leveled. The layer should be no more than 15 millimeters. It completely freezes in 4-5 days. On top, if desired, lay ceramic tiles.

So, you are thinking about how and from what it is better to make the floor in the steam room. Fine! We will tell you about all options, and then choose for yourself. If only because "better" for each his own.

What and from what is better to make

Part of your choice will depend on , which you laid under the bath. This will be partly determined the purpose of the building- a seasonal bath is much less demanding in all respects than a year-round bath.

The floors themselves are of two types: torrential And dry.

Pouring the floor is boards with slots, which means the following: the level on which you walk "hangs" above another level, on which the flowing water falls. And this basic floor level is of two types.

More precisely, there are two ways to solve the problem of waste water disposal: it is either diverted or not diverted, but flows directly under the bath, where it goes into the soil and is distributed by the soil itself.

The last case is demanding soil type, because the water will leave only if the bath is on sandy or soils close to them in terms of drainage properties.

But if she stands on clay, then even for a summer bathhouse, the losing option is - the water will not leave, it will stagnate, and its only way to leave is evaporation into the atmosphere. If the summer is wet and cold, then evaporation will be a problem.

But it is assumed that you learned the geology of the site at the time when the house was being built. Therefore, you can choose both suitable for the bathhouse and the appropriate type of floor.

Back to torrential semi. Under the boards with slots, we can have not only open ground, and normal sloped concrete screed, which allows used water to drain to the drain leading to the bath sewer. The sewer itself is a pipe that leads outside the bath - into a septic tank or into a drainage field.

In addition to the concrete screed, which is costly in financial terms, the owner has the opportunity to make a simple clay castle- the same, in fact, a floor with a slope, but not from concrete, but from clay. We have already said that clay does not let water through, so it is the cheapest to use it.

So, main floor- this is concrete or clay with a slight (just a few degrees) slope to the drain, which can be located both in the middle and at one of the walls of the steam room. The logs on which the boards will lie are attached to the foundation strapping. Boards are placed on top of the log in a perpendicular direction.

The design of the pouring floor is very simple. If you forgot to do vents in the walls of the foundation, it is not difficult to ventilate it.

BY THE WAY! Under no circumstances will such a floor differ in special warmth. And you need to make sure that during the procedures in the steam room, the ventilation from the side of the floor is hermetically covered.

The advantage for those who decide to make the floor in the steam room torrential will be that water will not accumulate in the unevenness of the wooden part, and therefore, there will be no rot. As in the short video below.

However, timely treatment with the same water-repellent compounds can solve this problem for a dry floor.

Now oh dry field. Roughly speaking, this is absolutely the same design with a slope and a drain that was hidden under the pouring boards. Only in this case, you walk on it, so it is made of wood, the boards of which are tightly fitted one to the other, so as not to let water go down to the insulation.

May or may not be used wood, and put on the floor of the steam room ceramic tiles. And here, too, two options - you can do under it warm floor, but you can put wooden lattices over the tile (it's warmer and less likely to slip).

(The pouring floor can also be insulated - for this, a layer of insulation is placed under a concrete screed. For more details, see below or see a separate one about insulation.)

the best lumber for a dry floor will probably grooved board, that is, a board that has a spike on one end along the long side, and a groove on the other side. Such a connection is not only strong, but also quite tight.

material, what is better to make the floor in the steam room, we think larch- it's a little expensive, but there will be no problems with rotting. Yes, and it will not have to change in the near future. After all, larch from water only becomes stronger and harder, and the resins in it successfully resist bacteria and fungi that destroy wet wood.

Bath: draining water in a steam room or sink

Let us explain how exactly the system for removing used water is arranged. It has already been said above that in order to simplify the draining of water in the steam room or sink, you need to make a small slope floor towards the drain hole.

If the floor is pouring, then you can bring the angle of inclination of the lock or screed to 5-10 degrees, because no one will walk on it. If the floor is dry, then you can limit yourself to 2-3 degrees.

Again, the location of the drain hole is a matter of taste. Someone is fine when it is located in the center someone prefers to do it near the wall.

IMPORTANT! In any case, be guided by the fact that you will have to clean it from time to time. Therefore, access to it should not be hindered - for example, to make a drain under the shelves.

When the floor is pouring, and the steam room and sink are separate, but adjacent, the space under the floor can be general, with one output. In this case, two slopes and a drain between them are made.

It is worth saying that the drain device depends on how often the bath is used, how many people bathe and wash in it. If it is operated seldom, for example, once a week, and a couple of people wash there, then you can do pit- this is a drainage device, a pit or groove under the bath, filled with stones or sand, or both (layers). But the ground must be sandy.

You can take it out of the bath - in drain or filtration well. The difference is that from the first waste is periodically pumped out by sewers, and in the second, the liquid is filtered and goes into the soil.

If your home has a large enough septic tank, then the used water from the bath can be sent to it.

How to do: instruction

This instruction depends on what type of foundation you have. If you are making a pouring floor, then it will be attached to the foundation.

Let's assume you have tape foundation. Then there is two options: either put the logs directly on the tape, or the strapping beam is first placed on the tape, and the logs are already attached to it. But for laying the strapping beam, it is first necessary to provide for the installation of anchors directly into the not yet hardened concrete of the tape. The timber is planted on anchors and tightened with bolts.

If the foundation pile or columnar, then it is connected by a grillage, which can be wooden or metal. In both cases, the logs will be attached to the grillage in approximately the same way (taking into account the material of the grillage) in the previous version.

ADVICE! It is clear that boards with a gap of, say, 1 cm are placed on the logs. But do not forget that you need to leave a gap between the boards and the wall, and its value is 1-1.5 cm.

How to make a concrete screed and drain. You have to start by creating drainage system or digging a trench through which water will be discharged either into a septic tank or into a drainage field.

drainage system under the floor is a sand cushion, on top of which gravel is poured. However, still on clay soils and that won't help much.

If the water will be diverted, then first you need to completely delete soil layer from the ground, pour sand 10 cm, then gravel.

Under the future sink to be done pit- a concrete tank into which the used water will drain and leave through the pipe.

The simplest drainage scheme with a pouring floor

The sand and gravel cushion is covered with a layer of waterproofing (roofing material, for example). Then comes a layer of insulation (often foam), on which a reinforcing mesh is laid. Everything is filled with concrete.

A slope is made over the rough screed, which converges to the pit.

This option is suitable for owners of baths with tape or columnar foundation.

Technology doesn't change if you decide to make a waterproofed (dry) floor covered with ceramic tiles.

How to paint

Let's start with the fact that we do not have many options for what the floors in the bath are like so that they need to be painted. First, this wood. Secondly, many times less, it concrete, and besides, not everyone knows about the possibilities of its painting. BUT ceramic tiles we will not name, because it does not need dyeing at all.

How to process or cover the floor in the steam room of the bath

Now about the distinction: it’s worth painting the floor in the bath and steam room different formulations if you want to save some money. Because in the steam room on the floor, although it’s not so hot, preference should still be given to the most humane compositions in terms of human health - acrylic varnishes and paints, for example. This is if the floor is wooden, of course.

However, we would recommend treating the floor in the steam room of a bathhouse or some Finnish impregnation, about which the manufacturer says that it is guaranteed not to slip, or yacht varnish, but with measures against possible slipping.

After all, the main function of floor treatment is to protect it from water. Wood is damaged by water- rots, cracks. And who wants to change floors regularly? This is not the easiest job. Therefore, I want them to last longer without repair.

Yacht varnish The name itself says that it is intended to protect wooden ships from water. BUT impregnation for wood contain fats that eliminate the wettability of the wood.

In the rest of the bath, there is less moisture, more permeability, so you can paint or varnish with any composition you like, and if the bath is visited often, then the composition should be additive, which reduces its abrasion. Usually this polyurethane or urethane.

Useful video

Almost half an hour useful information from RusPara:

Well, and one more role in pursuit, only here about mistakes - the floor in the bath is 12-15 cm above the ground, these are just boards that were not protected by anything. As a result, everything rotted:

***
Well, now that it has become more or less clear which floors are best done in the steam room, you may be interested in other materials about its arrangement: what, tips on, steam rooms and what, what compositions can be, how and what walls, floor and the ceiling, in the steam room.

In contact with

The floor in the washing room is always made with a mandatory slope of the surface to the drain hole. This allows you to effectively remove water from the room and does not allow moisture to linger on the floor for a long time. The task of arranging the slope of the entire plane to one point is solved in various ways and the choice of a method depends on the design of a particular bath. If this is a building on strip foundation, then more often a warm concrete or insulated wooden floor coated with porcelain tiles is used. In baths on screw piles and columnar foundations, it is more preferable to use a wooden pouring floor.

Concrete floors on the ground in the washing

If used as a basis tape construction, then it is possible to make both a wooden pouring floor and concrete floors on the ground. Consider an example of making a warm floor based on a screed finished with ceramic tiles.

Preparation of communications for draining is carried out even at the stage before pouring the concrete tape. The main thing here is to observe the slope of the pipe at least 2-3 cm per meter. The optimal location of the drain hole is in the center of the room, since the water drain organized at this point will provide the most efficient collection of drains from the entire floor surface.

If there is a fertile layer of earth under the future floor, then it should be completely removed and sprinkled with a layer of sand 15-20 cm thick. Then this layer is spilled with water and compacted with a manual rammer. When the surface is leveled and dense enough, a 50 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) insulation is laid on top of the sand.

Small sections of heat-insulating plates are installed along the perimeter, after which foil waterproofing is laid on them. The joints between the strips of material are glued with foil waterproofing tape so that the waterproofing layer is completely sealed and does not let moisture into the insulation.

Further, low objects are laid out on the hydrobarrier, on which a metal mesh is installed to reinforce the future concrete slab. A heated floor heating tape is attached to the grid with a wire and this entire structure is poured with a concrete solution 10 cm thick.

As a finishing coating on a concrete screed, porcelain tiles are usually glued.

Thanks to the active underfloor heating system installed in the concrete slab, it will be comfortable to use such a sink even in the cold season.

Pouring wooden floor in the bath on stilts

The floors in the bath on piles require careful observance of the installation technology, since improper ventilation of the underground space leads to rapid decay wooden elements designs.

Let us first consider the scheme for arranging a concrete screed, as a more complex, but also more durable solution to the issue of organizing a floor for a bath on a columnar or pile foundation.

First of all, at the level of the lower plane of the wooden beams, the subfloor flooring is attached.

If you look closely at the beams, you can see that the boards are not nailed to the bottom of the joists, but are installed on a small support, fixed with inside timber. This support is called the cranial bar and its location is well shown in the following diagram.

Also in this plan, you can see the sequence of placement of each of the necessary layers when constructing a concrete slab and a pouring floor made of wooden board. The only thing that is not indicated here is a waterproofing flooring, which is desirable to be placed on top of a concrete screed to protect it from constant contact with water.

The following diagram describes an effective solution for arranging insulated concrete floors without expanded clay spillage. Here, both mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam boards can act as thermal protection.

In practice, often a concrete screed is not made, but made simple system pouring floor that does not require pouring the solution. The beginning of work is the same as in the previous version.

Mineral wool is laid between the lags on the rough flooring. A drain valve is installed to ensure efficient water flow.

In the direction from the walls to the hole, wooden guides are arranged in such a way as to form a general slope at one point.

On top of the guides, sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap on the walls are attached to the screws.

Logs are installed above the metal surface for laying poured floor boards on top of them.

The final stage is the laying of finishing floors from boards located at a distance of at least 3-5 mm relative to each other.

It is important to provide for the possibility of removing the flooring to ventilate and clean the underground space from debris that has got there. The better the ventilation is performed, the longer the entire structure will last as a result. The best solution would be to organize a vent in the subfloor, as shown in the photo below.

This air duct will allow not only to ventilate the wood of the finished floor with high quality, but also guarantees the inflow fresh air into the washroom.

Do-it-yourself floor in a washing bath - concrete and wood

The floor in the washing bath is always made with a mandatory slope of the surface to the drain hole. This allows you to effectively remove water from the room and does not allow moisture to linger on the floor for a long time.

Do-it-yourself floor in a bathhouse sink

In the construction of small bathhouses for private use today, few strictly adhere to the canons of their traditional construction. Sometimes the boundaries between different types baths are so blurred that it is already difficult to unambiguously determine its type. The top is taken not by blind adherence to standards, but by the creation of a comfortable, individualized and, often, multifunctional building. More than half of all baths are now equipped with universal steam rooms, in which procedures can be carried out both with “wet” steam, like Russian baths, and with “dry” steam, like Finnish saunas. But for whipping with a broom or washing in the neighborhood through the wall, soap (washing) ones are provided. They can be equipped with massage beds, ordinary and shock showers, washstands, fonts, and even small pools. Such a functional layout raises a number of questions about how to make a floor in a bath sink, one or another workable design.

Requirements for floors in soap rooms

Washing is the realm of water. After all, it is found here everywhere in the form of spills, streams and splashes. Therefore, regardless of whether there are local wastewater receivers near each of the plumbing fixtures or not, the floor of the room acts as an element of the sewer system. It can completely collect and divert spilled liquid or complement the drainage system, making it easier to keep clean. However, in any case, a properly installed floor in a washing bath must meet the following requirements:

be equipped with an easy-to-maintain, but effective liquid removal system;
ensure the comfort of walking on it with bare feet, cause pleasant tactile sensations;
be non-slippery, safe;
dry and ventilate quickly;
withstand long-term direct exposure to fluid and thermal stress;
comply with sanitary and aesthetic standards.

In addition, according to construction requirements, the washing compartment should have a floor level 20-30 mm lower than the coatings in non-wetted adjacent rooms.

Concrete floor in a washing bath

It is the most practical and durable construction, capable of serving as a stand-alone tiled floor, as well as the basis for leaking or non-leaking modern plank flooring. The device of floors in a bath in a washing department made of concrete with a surface subjected to direct use must fully comply with all the requirements described above. At the same time, for each list item, there is some variability in the choice of how to implement them.

Drainage

To collect wastewater, the floor surface in the soap compartment is equipped with a slope towards the receiving unit of the sewer system. Building codes set this value at 0.01-0.015%. That is, after completion finishing concrete floor slabs, the levels of the facing forming surfaces should have a deviation from the horizontal of 10-15 mm per 1 m. Latches of trap-type siphons act as receiving units for tiled coatings. They should be positioned so that neither they nor the streams of water to them cross the main and side passages.

Important! Gender in washing bath is equipped with a ladder, based, first of all, not on the form factor or design of its lattice (rounded, square, elongated rectangular), but on the throughput of the device. The performance of a plumbing fixture largely depends on the diameter of its outlet, which are manufactured according to size standards of 52, 62 and 90 mm. This factor should be taken into account so as not to stand in the shower ankle-deep in dirty water.

From the waste receiving unit of the floor to the washing water are discharged along sewer pipes outside the bath building. For their disposal, especially during intensive use of the bath, it is advisable to make a separate drive, drain hole or a septic tank, and not load public sanitary facilities.

Installation of a warm floor slab

When assembling a concrete floor in a washing bath with your own hands from the zero stage of construction, you should not neglect measures to reduce heat transfer through the ceiling. Concrete and tiles have a fairly high thermal conductivity, so if you do not take appropriate measures to insulate them, then in winter you will feel cold on your feet. Neither the use of wooden gratings nor powerful heating in the room can resist such discomfort.

The creation of a warm floor slab can be implemented in the following areas:

installation of elements of the underfloor heating system in it (with mandatory insulation of the base);
its thorough thermal protection and waterproofing.

Floor heating in the washroom

In terms of the device for heating floor coverings, the washing room in the bath is not too different from any other household premises. You can read more about installing a water-heated floor system here, and about electric heating here. However, when choosing a heating method, two important points should be considered:

Bath mode. So, for permanent use, both water and circuit diagram. If the room will warm up only for the duration of the procedures, then it is better to choose electric option. He is not afraid of freezing, has less inertia when entering the operating mode (if the heater is mounted in a thin layer of mortar under the tile).
Operational safety. Of course, water circuits do not pose a threat to human life, even in a damaged state. When installing an electric underfloor heating in a washing bath, you will have to take all possible steps. protective measures. Firstly, a steel mesh with a cell of 30 * 30 mm should be placed above the electric heater in the solution and grounded securely to it. Secondly, an RCD must be installed, designed for a leakage current of 10 mA. Thirdly, we will have to deal with the issues of potential equalization. Taken together, it is desirable to carry out these measures for the arrangement of electric heating in the soap department under the guidance of a professional electrician.

"Pie" of the insulated floor in the washing room

Regardless of whether heated underfloor heating is assembled in the bath in the washing room or not, concrete bases are insulated and waterproofed. The method of practical implementation of thermal and hydroprotection is selected depending on the position of the overlap relative to the ground. The slab can be placed directly on the ground preparation or on the logs. The isolation of the concrete floor on the ground was discussed in detail in the article: "Features of making floors in steam rooms with your own hands." At the same time, it is no different from creating a similar design in the soap department.

In the case when the bath box is placed on poles, beam schemes (beams, logs) are often used for flooring in all rooms, equipping them with leaking or non-leaking flooring from boards. But sometimes, with such a supporting structure, it is necessary to assemble the floor in a washroom of a monolithic type, for example, to lay ceramic tiles or install effective system coating heating. Its schematic structure is shown in the figure below.

Wooden base assembly

Logs and all other lumber are used only from well-dried wood, treated at least 2-3 times with antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnations.

When installing a beam frame, you can basically be guided by the same principles as when preparing it for finishing boardwalk, described here. There will be only some adjustment of the design parameters for the thickness of the insulation and increased loads. So, the height of the first layer of thermal insulation between the lags will be 100 mm, if an additional insulating layer (at least 50 mm) is still laid for the underfloor heating system. You can consider, for example, the option of a “skeleton” for floor insulation in the washing department of the bath on wooden beams 100 * 50 with a step of 450 mm (see tab. 1 on the link), reducing the length of the free span between the lag supports to 1 m.
The board of the underlying roll and the cranial bar under it are used with the smallest possible thickness from low-grade wood (without signs of biological damage).
Lay film roll waterproofing with high rate vapor permeability and the first layer of inter-beam thermal insulation, as described here.
A ventilated space is arranged above the insulation - a ventilation gap. It is formed by punching from above the log bars of the counter-lattice. The thickness of the beams is selected based on the final clearance height of 20-30 mm. It is preferable to install a floor in the washing compartment, in which the formed horizontal ventilation gap communicates with the ventilation gaps behind the interior wall cladding of the room.
The counter-lattice is covered with dice of the subfloor. Boards with the parameters indicated in table 2 are suitable for it (see link). They can also be replaced sheet materials(OSB, DSP, etc.) with identical carrier parameters.

Installation of insulated concrete slab on wooden flooring

Above the boards of rough rolling, a continuous carpet of dense waterproofing material is arranged. For these purposes, rolled sheets of bituminous euroroofing material are excellent. They are welded into a monolithic coating with a continuation under the cladding on walls with a height of at least 400 mm. Thus, a sealed waterproof bowl is formed.
Lay the second layer of 50 mm thermal insulation boards made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). A similar thermal protection scheme is necessarily used if the washing room in the bath is equipped with a floor heating system. Otherwise, you can not mount an additional heat shield, but then you should increase the height of the inter-beam insulation to at least 150 mm.
If XPS was used, then a film is spread over it and molded concrete slab with slopes to the receiving sewer node. If expanded polystyrene sheets were not used, then concreting can be carried out directly into the bowl from waterproofing along subfloor. The height of the reinforced casting should be 80-100 mm. Plasticizers and water repellents are introduced into the solution at the stage of its mixing.

Important! Only with such an integrated approach, heat and waterproofing of the floors in the washing bath will be able to provide you with the comfort of using the facility, as well as the long-term preservation of structural and finishing materials.

Concrete flooring in washroom

The building requirements are floor coverings in rooms with a wet operating mode, be made of hydrophobic materials with a corrugated surface. However, in practice, the number of important parameters taken into account for floors in washing rooms is much wider. It also includes convenience, safety and comfort of use, resistance to water and temperature gradients, and aesthetic perception. For the most part, ceramic cladding with a profile set of properties has all these characteristics. And if the washing room in the tile bath is also complemented by light removable grates made of wooden lath, then the most practical floor covering is obtained. After all, the main finish will be made of ceramics, which has a practically unlimited service life. Lattices will ensure the safety of movement, will not interfere with cleaning, as they can always be lifted and taken out to dry.

Features of the choice and installation of tiles

Finishing the bathroom floor tiles in the bath will only be done correctly when they are selected and installed in accordance with the specific operating conditions. Please note that tiles must be:

matte, with a rough surface against slipping, have a coefficient of friction R 11-R 13;
with a homogeneous dense structure, slightly absorbing water. Suitable properties for porcelain stoneware with a water absorption coefficient of ≈3% or tiles - 3-10%. Ceramics with a hydrophilicity of more than 10% is suitable only for finishing walls that are not constantly exposed to water;
with high frost resistance, if the floor in the washing bath can be exposed to negative temperatures in irregularly heated rooms. Otherwise, the tile will quickly become covered with cracks.

Concrete slab before gluing ceramic material it is recommended to treat with penetrating cement compositions. They include components that can penetrate deep into the porous mineral structure and completely seal its capillary channels. As a result, the concrete surface becomes a reliable barrier to the migration of dropping liquid.

Tiles on the floor of the washing compartment should be laid on moisture-resistant adhesive mixtures. When using glue, one should also take into account the temperature loads on the reinforced concrete base and its decorative coating. For irregularly heated rooms, as well as ceilings with underfloor heating systems, an appropriate adhesive mixture of increased elasticity is selected that can withstand thermal deformations.

Wooden floor in the washing bath

Traditionally, a washing room in a wooden bath, namely, such buildings are still massively erected in Russia, was equipped with plank floors. And, despite the fact that they are now seriously competing with concrete structures lined with ceramic tiles, as more durable, wooden coatings are still relevant. The device of floors in a bath in a washing department on the basis of lumber can be leaking and non-leaking.

Floor of the flowing (flowing) type

A floor structure of this type can actually be considered the same age as the appearance of the entire technology of building baths in general. Today it has undergone some improvements, but its basic functional principles have remained unchanged. With its working surface, the pouring floor in the bath still has a surface of boards that are installed with drainage gaps. In the classical version, seeping into these cracks, water is absorbed directly into the soil or concentrated in an absorbing pit, where it subsequently also goes into the ground. Now, under the boardwalks, concrete drain surfaces are predominantly created with slopes, along which the liquid flows down to the receiving node of the sewer system.

It should be noted that there are also intermediate solutions, between the most primitive way of waste disposal and the modern one. So, instead of concrete surfaces, carefully compacted greasy clay is used, or drainage is carried out not just into the soil, but into a crushed stone pillow. The use of clay and gravel bedding, of course, significantly reduces the cost and speeds up the installation of a washing machine in a bath, however, it has nothing to do with the concept of modern approaches to this issue. It is rather difficult to provide thermal comfort with such a scheme for arranging floors in a sink, as well as a feeling of freshness - in such a room there will almost always be a smell of dampness.

Mounting features of leaky coatings

In a simple version, pouring floorings are assembled quickly enough. Their load-bearing structures are made on logs, guided by the choice of lumber similar to the installation of floors on poles. Finished plank sheathing is not insulated, and its stuffing is carried out with slots between adjacent lamellas of ≈10 mm. Leaving drainage gaps too wide is not worth it, otherwise they will create problems when moving. If the boards are fastened too tightly, then swollen under the influence of moisture, they can completely close.

When mounting the pouring floor in the bath with your own hands, use nails to fix the flooring. Gradually, even with the most effective hydrophobic treatment, the wood of the coating will become unusable, its lamellas will have to be replaced with new ones. Unscrewing a self-tapping screw after several years of being in raw material is an unrealistic task. If batten fastened with a nail, then it can always be easily pry and torn off from the support beam.

Important! When hammering nails, their caps must be sunk into the material, and the resulting recesses must be puttied with moisture-resistant target compositions.

Equipping under the pouring floor concrete base, adopt the principles of wastewater management described above. That is, observing the slopes, installing the sewerage receiving unit and, further, the entire waste disposal system. Instead of a plumbing ladder, a rubber ball is sometimes used. When it floats up, it passes liquid into the sewer, and when there is no inflow, it lies on the hole of the drain funnel and blocks the return draft of cold air from the sewer pipe.

To ensure the thermal comfort of those washing in the bath, the durability of the wooden floor structure, they also resort to the following measures:

the basement of the foundation is made insulated, with hermetically sealed products;
a concrete base under the flooring is made with layers of heat and waterproofing using the technology of floors on the ground;
mount the ventilation system so that warm air passes under the pouring cover before being removed from the washing room.

Non-leakage type floor

Produce a quality non-leaking wood flooring floors in a washing bath is a rather difficult task, since an almost perfect fit of the elements of the finishing board is required, as well as a 100% guarantee of the reliability of the waterproofing layer under it. Nevertheless, general principles floor slab devices are identical wooden structure on lags, except for the following structural differences:

waterproofing above the insulation is mounted with a significant overlap of the strips (at least 300-400 mm), taking into account the direction of the water flow. It is welcome to lay several layers of film, which can be duplicated with sheets of dense material, such as plastic or aluminum. The surface of the hydro-barrier should already have a runoff slope, provided in any convenient way: appropriate installation of beams, stuffing additional beveled bars of the counter-lattice on the logs, etc.;
the floor in the non-spill type washing bath is assembled from high-quality softwood grooved boards. It is preferable to place the lamellas so that water flows along them along the wood fibers;
the slope of the surface of the front cover ends with a receiving sewer unit (ladder).

Regardless of the floor design you choose, the installation of a high-performance ventilation system is mandatory in the room. But in addition, the washing room in the bath should be additionally dried after each cycle of hygiene procedures - it is recommended to ventilate it by briefly opening doors and windows. All this will extend the service life of not only the floors, but also other building elements of the building.

How to make a floor in a bathhouse sink with your own hands: device, installation

We analyze how to make a floor in a bathhouse sink with your own hands. Features and differences in the choice of materials and installation methods in comparison with other bath rooms

How to make a floor in a bath in a washing room - planning and installation rules

Since the washing room belongs to one of the main rooms in the bath building, work on its device must be carried out in full accordance with the technology, taking into account the slightest nuances. Even a minor mistake can degrade the performance of the washing department. The solution to the question of how to make the floor in the washing bath correctly deserves special attention.

The conditions in which the flooring in the washing room is used are characterized by the constant presence of an increased level of humidity and frequent temperature changes. In the process of designing a bath and during its construction, this should be taken into account.

Requirements for flooring in a car wash

In order for the floor in the bath in the washing room to be made with high quality and last long enough, it must meet a number of requirements:

quickly and completely drain water, for which the floor covering is made with a slight slope towards the drain hole or equipped according to the so-called leaking technology;
well ventilated and dry quickly;
be resistant to high humidity and temperature changes;
it should be laid so as to exclude the possibility of drafts.

Varieties of floor coverings in the washroom

In private households, in the washing departments of baths, wooden (they are leaking / non-leaking) and concrete floor structures are usually laid.

As practice shows, the simplest option in terms of implementation is the leaking floor shown in the photo. On a pre-prepared base, which can be a concrete screed, lower crown, support pillars, etc., logs are fixed - they will become the basis for mounting the flooring from the boards.

By the way, when a bathhouse is being built, warm floors in the washing room are created precisely without leaking.

Concrete floors in the washroom are made quite often, as they have many advantages:

simple device;
durability, strength and reliability;
unpretentiousness in care.

Pouring a concrete surface is often much cheaper than installing a wooden floor structure. But such a floor has an important drawback - it is cold to the touch (read: “Cold floor in the bath - options for solving the problem, warming”).

There are several ways to solve this problem:

move around in special shoes;
insulate the floor;
install a floor heating system, which will require considerable cash costs.

Technology for arranging a wooden floor

When deciding how to cover the floor in the bath in the washroom, many of their owners opt for wooden flooring. The work is carried out in stages.

Log installation procedure:

In order for them to become stable, in the center of each of them a supporting chair is made of bricks, wood or using concrete pouring. When using brick or wood, you need to fill in a special platform with a height of 20 centimeters or more with reinforcement. It should be of such dimensions that it protrudes 5 centimeters from each side of the created support.
Pits under the base are dug 40 centimeters deep for each site. The bottom and walls are rammed. Sand is poured into the recess with a 10-centimeter layer and 15 centimeters of gravel. Formwork is made from edged boards, its height should exceed the ground level by 5 centimeters. A roofing material is laid along the edges of the pit, a concrete solution is prepared and the formwork is poured with a layer of 10-15 centimeters. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. From above, it is again poured with concrete to the very top edge of the formwork. Within a few days, the sites should dry.
Heated bitumen is applied to the surface of the concrete base and a layer of roofing material is placed.
When laying out a brick support, 4 rows are enough. Laying is carried out using a standard solution. Support is required for each lag.
At the next stage, the underground is prepared, or rather the ground in this place of the structure. During the construction of a leaking floor structure, when the composition of the soil allows moisture to pass through, crushed stone is poured into the underground with a 25-cm layer and rammed. As a result, water will seep between the flooring elements into the existing gaps, penetrate into the soil through the backfill and be absorbed. Crushed stone in this case will act as a filter.
If the soil does not absorb moisture well, it is necessary to equip a tray in it to divert water into the catchment area.
When implementing a non-leaking structure, you need to decide how to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in the washroom underground. It is best to use expanded clay, observing a 15 cm gap between the lags and the backfill.
A pit 30 centimeters high and 40-50 centimeters wide is dug near the wall. Its walls are rammed and strengthened with clay. A pipe is led out of the pit under a slope, for example, into the sewer. It is necessary to use products with a diameter of at least 11 centimeters for the fastest removal of liquid.
The installation of the lag begins, they are fixed with anchors. In this case, it is necessary to observe a 30-40 mm distance between the walls and the logs. Before starting installation work, the embedded crown should be covered with roofing material. The beam for lags is additionally treated with an antiseptic composition.
In the process of fixing the lag, you need to monitor their horizontal location. If necessary, they are hemmed at the point of contact with the support. It is also necessary to control the ratio of the lag to each other using the level.

The floors are laid in a washing room in a wooden bath in a flowing way in the following sequence:

The boards are cut taking into account the parameters of the room, observing the ventilation gap between adjacent flooring elements and walls with a minimum size of 20 millimeters.
The floor surface is laid from any wall, placing the floorboards parallel to it. 20 millimeters recede from the selected wall and put the first board on the logs, nailing it. The length of fasteners is selected in accordance with the thickness of the flooring. For example, 4 cm elements require 8 cm nails.
Fasteners are driven in correctly, stepping back from the edge of the board about 15 millimeters. In this case, the nails must be set at an angle of 40 degrees. At least two fasteners should be used to fix one board.
When the first bar is fixed, proceed to the installation of the second. The recommended gap between adjacent boards should be at least 3 mm. All flooring elements are fixed according to the described technology.
Proceed to the final processing of the floor. Even two layers of drying oil will be enough. It is better to refuse staining.

When arranging a non-leaking floor, a tongue and groove board is used. The flooring elements are laid with a groove inside the room. In the process of fitting, you should tap with a mallet on the end with a groove. If you do not follow this rule, the tongue may break, because it is 2 times thinner than the fabric of the product.

A non-leaking floor in a sink in a wooden bath or other type of bath building is equipped as follows:

First of all, make a rough base. Along the edges of the bottom of the mounted logs, wooden bars 5x5 centimeters in size are nailed. Boards of a rough base are laid on them, for which wood of 2-3 grades can be used. They are fixed with nails.
Further waterproofing of the floor in the bath in the washing room is provided. To do this, for example, roofing material or a dense film is laid over the rough base.
Install thermal insulation. Expanded clay, which is poured out between the lags, can be called the optimal choice of heat-insulating material. A second layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation.
At the final stage, they begin to create a finishing flooring from grooved boards. Laying is carried out according to the same technology as in the case of a leaky floor covering, but the floor elements are fixed without gaps.
Refusal to fasten boards with nails is allowed. Then they can be removed in order to be taken out of the garbage room for the purpose of drying. In this case, a special method is used: the floorboards are fixed along the edges with the help of bars, which, in turn, are attached to the logs with capercaillie screws. When the need arises, they are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and dried outside the garbage.

Ventilation design device

Option one is the most popular among developers, while the order of work is as follows:

In the corners of the washing room at the base of the floor, holes are left for laying ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters. The material used to make them may vary.
Install ventilation pipes after finishing the walls in the room. Products with a diameter of not more than 5 centimeters can be disguised under the skin. Larger pipes should be installed in bath buildings that are visited more than twice a week. They are mounted in the corners of the room, attached to the surface of the walls with the help of special clamps.

Arrangement of a concrete floor

The procedure for pouring concrete floors:

First, a pit is prepared, where water from the washing room will flow. To make it, they make a hole. In the pit, a pipe with a diameter of 15-20 centimeters is laid and taken out into the gutter, sewerage system or other similar place. The dimensions of the pit depend on the area of the room.
The soil is leveled and broken bricks are poured onto it with a 15-centimeter layer. Gravel is placed on top of it with a layer of 10 centimeters, after which it is tamped. In other backfill options, crushed stone is used first, and then sand or broken brick and sand. All methods are considered correct.
For waterproofing, roofing material or other similar rolled material is laid on top of the backfill in one layer, not forgetting the need to make a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. To ensure complete sealing, the joints and seams are treated with bitumen.
On top of the waterproofing material, a heater is poured - expanded clay. The thickness of this layer depends on the climate in a particular region. Most often, the backfill is made 5-10 centimeters high. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the expanded clay, preferably with cells of 15x15 centimeters, assembled from bars with a cross section of 10 - 12 millimeters. At the intersection, they are fastened with a flexible knitting wire. The grid is fixed with cement mortar for reliability. Before pouring, guides are fixed on the base.

At the end of the work, the filling of the sand-cement screed is leveled, distributing the mixture evenly over the surface. For smoothing, use, for example, a piece of edged board. To prepare the solution, it is desirable to use expanded sand (perlite). When using it, it is important to observe the correct proportions.

The solution is made as follows:

2 buckets of perlite are poured into a container (concrete mixer or trough) and 10 liters of water are poured. Everything is well mixed.
Then add ½ part of a 10-liter bucket of expanded sand, mix the mass for 10-15 minutes, pour in 5 liters of water. Kneading is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
Then a bucket of perlite is poured and 2 liters of water are poured. The result should be an almost loose composition. Water should not be added. After the mass is infused for 10 minutes, it will become plastic.

The finished mass is laid and leveled. The layer should be no more than 15 millimeters. It completely freezes in 4-5 days. On top, if desired, lay ceramic tiles.

Floor in the bath in the washing room: floor installation in the washing department, how to insulate, how to cover, how to make waterproofing in the sink in a wooden bath, heated floors, photo and video

In the construction of small bathhouses for private use today, few strictly adhere to the canons of their traditional construction. Sometimes the boundaries between different types of baths are so blurred that it is already difficult to unambiguously determine its type. The top is taken not by blind adherence to standards, but by the creation of a comfortable, individualized and, often, multifunctional building. More than half of all baths are now equipped with universal steam rooms, in which procedures can be carried out both with “wet” steam, like Russian baths, and with “dry” steam, like Finnish saunas. But for whipping with a broom or washing in the neighborhood through the wall, soap (washing) ones are provided. They can be equipped with massage beds, ordinary and shock showers, washstands, fonts, and even small pools. Such a functional layout raises a number of questions about how to make a floor in a bath sink, one or another workable design.

Requirements for floors in soap rooms

be equipped with an easy-to-maintain, but effective liquid removal system;
ensure the comfort of walking on it with bare feet, cause pleasant tactile sensations;
be non-slippery, safe;
dry and ventilate quickly;
withstand long-term direct exposure to fluid and thermal stress;
comply with sanitary and aesthetic standards.

In addition, according to construction requirements, the washing compartment should have a floor level 20-30 mm lower than the coatings in non-wetted adjacent rooms.

Concrete floor in a washing bath

It is the most practical and durable construction, able to serve as a stand-alone tiled floor, as well as the basis for modern type leaking or non-leaking plank flooring. . The device of floors in a bath in a washing department made of concrete with a surface subjected to direct use must fully comply with all the requirements described above. At the same time, for each list item, there is some variability in the choice of how to implement them.

Drainage

To collect wastewater, the floor surface in the soap compartment is equipped with a slope towards the receiving unit of the sewer system. Building codes set this value at 0.01-0.015%. That is, after the completion of the finishing of the concrete floor slab, the levels of the facing forming surfaces should have a deviation from the horizontal of 10-15 mm per 1 m. Latches of trap-type siphons act as receiving units for tile coverings. They should be positioned so that neither they nor the streams of water to them cross the main and side passages.

Important! The floor in the washing bath is equipped with a ladder, based, first of all, not on the form factor or design of its lattice (rounded, square, elongated rectangular), but on the throughput of the device. The performance of a plumbing fixture largely depends on the diameter of its outlet, which are manufactured according to size standards of 52, 62 and 90 mm. This factor should be taken into account so as not to stand in the shower ankle-deep in dirty water.

From the waste receiving unit of the floor to the washing water, they are discharged through sewer pipes outside the bath building. For their disposal, especially during intensive use of the bath, it is advisable to make a separate storage tank, a drain pit or a septic tank, and not load public sanitary facilities. Read more about the construction of such systems for private users in the "" section.

Installation of a warm floor slab

The creation of a warm floor slab can be implemented in the following areas:

installation of elements of the underfloor heating system in it (with mandatory insulation of the base);
its thorough thermal protection and waterproofing.

Floor heating in the washroom

In terms of the device for heating floor coverings, the washing room in the bath is not too different from any other household premises. You can read more about the installation of a water-heated floor system, but about electric heating. However, when choosing a heating method, two important points should be considered:

Bath mode. So, for permanent use, both water and electrical circuits are suitable. If the room will warm up only for the duration of the procedures, then it is better to choose the electric option. He is not afraid of freezing, has less inertia when entering the operating mode (if the heater is mounted in a thin layer of mortar under the tile).
Operational safety. Of course, water circuits do not pose a threat to human life, even in a damaged state. When installing an electric underfloor heating in a washing bath, you will have to take all possible protective measures. Firstly, a steel mesh with a cell of 30 * 30 mm should be placed above the electric heater in the solution and grounded securely to it. Secondly, an RCD must be installed, designed for a leakage current of 10 mA. Thirdly, we will have to deal with the issues of potential equalization. Taken together, it is desirable to carry out these measures for the arrangement of electric heating in the soap department under the guidance of a professional electrician.

"Pie" of the insulated floor in the washing room

Regardless of whether heated underfloor heating is assembled in the bath in the washing room or not, concrete bases are insulated and waterproofed. The method of practical implementation of thermal and hydroprotection is selected depending on the position of the overlap relative to the ground. The slab can be placed directly on the ground preparation or on the logs. The insulation of a concrete floor on the ground was discussed in detail in the article: "". At the same time, it is no different from creating a similar design in the soap department.

In the case when the bath box is placed on poles, beam schemes (beams, logs) are often used for flooring in all rooms, equipping them with leaking or non-leaking flooring from boards. But sometimes, with such a supporting structure, it is necessary to assemble the floor in a washroom of a monolithic type, for example, to lay ceramic tiles or install an efficient floor heating system. Its schematic structure is shown in the figure below.

Wooden base assembly

Logs and all other lumber are used only from well-dried wood, treated at least 2-3 times with antiseptic and hydrophobic impregnations.

When installing a beam frame, you can basically be guided by the same principles as when preparing it for finishing boardwalk, described. There will be only some adjustment of the design parameters for the thickness of the insulation and increased loads. So, the height of the first layer of thermal insulation between the lags will be 100 mm, if an additional insulating layer (at least 50 mm) is still laid for the underfloor heating system. You can consider, for example, the option of a “skeleton” for floor insulation in the washing department of the bath on wooden beams 100 * 50 with a step of 450 mm (), reducing the length of the free span between the lag supports to 1 m.
The board of the underlying roll and the cranial bar under it are used with the smallest possible thickness from low-grade wood (without signs of biological damage).
Lay film roll waterproofing with a high vapor permeability and the first layer of inter-beam thermal insulation, as described.
A ventilated space is arranged above the insulation - a ventilation gap. It is formed by punching from above the log bars of the counter-lattice. The thickness of the beams is selected based on the final clearance height of 20-30 mm. It is preferable to install a floor in the washing compartment, in which the formed horizontal ventilation gap communicates with the ventilation gaps behind the interior wall cladding of the room.
The counter-lattice is covered with dice of the subfloor. Boards with the parameters specified in are suitable for him. They can also be replaced with sheet materials (OSB, DSP, etc.) with identical bearing parameters.

Installation of insulated concrete slab on wooden flooring

Above the boards of rough rolling, a continuous carpet of dense waterproofing material is arranged. For these purposes, rolled sheets of bituminous euroroofing material are excellent. They are welded into a monolithic coating with a continuation under the cladding on walls with a height of at least 400 mm. Thus, a sealed waterproof bowl is formed.
Lay the second layer of 50 mm thermal insulation boards made of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS). A similar thermal protection scheme is necessarily used if the washing room in the bath is equipped with a floor heating system. Otherwise, you can not mount an additional heat shield, but then you should increase the height of the inter-beam insulation to at least 150 mm.
If EPPS was used, then a film is spread over it and a concrete slab is formed with slopes to the sewer receiving unit. If expanded polystyrene sheets were not used, then concreting can be carried out directly into the bowl from the waterproofing on the subfloor. The height of the reinforced casting should be 80-100 mm. Plasticizers and water repellents are introduced into the solution at the stage of its mixing.

Important! Only with such an integrated approach, heat and waterproofing of the floors in the washing bath will be able to provide you with the comfort of using the facility, as well as the long-term preservation of structural and finishing materials.

Concrete flooring in washroom

Construction requirements prescribe that floor coverings in rooms with a wet operating mode should be made of hydrophobic materials with a corrugated surface. However, in practice, the number of important parameters taken into account for floors in washing rooms is much wider. It also includes convenience, safety and comfort of use, resistance to water and temperature gradients, and aesthetic perception. For the most part, ceramic cladding with a profile set of properties has all these characteristics. And if the washing room in the tile bath is also complemented by light removable gratings made of wooden laths, then the most practical floor covering is obtained. After all, the main finish will be made of ceramics, which has a practically unlimited service life. Lattices will ensure the safety of movement, will not interfere with cleaning, as they can always be lifted and taken out to dry.

Features of the choice and installation of tiles

Finishing the bathroom floor tiles in the bath will only be done correctly when they are selected and installed in accordance with the specific operating conditions. Please note that tiles must be:

matte, with a rough surface against slipping, have a coefficient of friction R 11-R 13;
with a homogeneous dense structure, slightly absorbing water. Suitable properties for porcelain stoneware with a water absorption coefficient of ≈3% or tiles - 3-10%. Ceramics with a hydrophilicity of more than 10% is suitable only for finishing walls that are not constantly exposed to water;
with high frost resistance, if the floor in the washing bath can be exposed to negative temperatures in irregularly heated rooms. Otherwise, the tile will quickly become covered with cracks.

It is recommended to treat the concrete slab with penetrating cement compositions before gluing the ceramic material. They include components that can penetrate deep into the porous mineral structure and completely seal its capillary channels. As a result, the concrete surface becomes a reliable barrier to the migration of dropping liquid.

Wooden floor in the washing bath

Floor of the flowing (flowing) type

Mounting features of leaky coatings

In a simple version, pouring floorings are assembled quickly enough. Their supporting structures are made on a log, guided by the choice of lumber similar to the installation. Finished plank sheathing is not insulated, and its stuffing is carried out with slots between adjacent lamellas of ≈10 mm. Leaving drainage gaps too wide is not worth it, otherwise they will create problems when moving. If the boards are fastened too tightly, then swollen under the influence of moisture, they can completely close.

When mounting the pouring floor in the bath with your own hands, use nails to fix the flooring. Gradually, even with the most effective hydrophobic treatment, the wood of the coating will become unusable, its lamellas will have to be replaced with new ones. Unscrewing a self-tapping screw after several years of being in raw material is an unrealistic task. If the floorboard was fastened with a nail, then it can always be easily hooked and torn off from the support beam.

Important! When hammering nails, their caps must be sunk into the material, and the resulting recesses must be puttied with moisture-resistant target compositions.

Equipping a concrete base under the pouring floor, they adopt the principles of organization of drainage described above. That is, observing the slopes, installing the sewerage receiving unit and, further, the entire waste disposal system. Instead of a plumbing ladder, a rubber ball is sometimes used. When it floats up, it passes liquid into the sewer, and when there is no inflow, it lies on the hole of the drain funnel and blocks the return draft of cold air from the sewer pipe.

To ensure the thermal comfort of those washing in the bath, the durability of the wooden floor structure, they also resort to the following measures:

the basement of the foundation is made insulated, with hermetically sealed products;
a concrete base under the flooring is made with layers of heat and waterproofing according to the technology;
mount the ventilation system so that warm air passes under the pouring cover before being removed from the washing room.

Non-leakage type floor

Making a high-quality non-leaking wooden flooring in a washing bath is a rather difficult task, since it requires an almost perfect fit of the elements of the finishing board, as well as a 100% guarantee of the reliability of the waterproofing layer under it. However, the general principles of floor slab construction are identical except for the following structural differences:

waterproofing above the insulation is mounted with a significant overlap of the strips (at least 300-400 mm), taking into account the direction of the water flow. It is welcome to lay several layers of film, which can be duplicated with sheets of dense material, such as plastic or aluminum. The surface of the hydro-barrier should already have a runoff slope, provided in any convenient way: appropriate installation of beams, stuffing additional beveled bars of the counter-lattice on the logs, etc.;
the floor in the non-spill type washing bath is assembled from high-quality softwood grooved boards. It is preferable to place the lamellas so that water flows along them along the wood fibers;
the slope of the surface of the front cover ends with a receiving sewer unit (ladder).

Washing room is one of the main premises of any bath. In the process of arranging this room, the key requirements of building and finishing technologies and a number of additional nuances should be taken into account: any, even the smallest omission, in the future can lead to a significant deterioration in the performance of the room.

Floors deserve special attention in the process of arranging a washroom. The operating conditions of the washing room are such that the floor here is constantly exposed to moisture and frequent temperature changes, which must be taken into account in the process of designing the structure and its subsequent construction.

In order for the floor in the washroom to serve as long and efficiently as possible, it must meet the following requirements:

contribute to the rapid and effective removal of moisture. To do this, the floors, as a rule, are made with a slight slope in the direction of the drain hole, or they are equipped according to the flowing technology;
fully ventilated and dry quickly;
withstand operation in conditions of high humidity and temperature extremes;
be laid so that the possibility of drafts in the room is not allowed.

The main types of floors for the washing room

The most widely used in private construction are wooden (additionally classified into leaking and non-leaking) and concrete structures.

The simplest option. On a pre-prepared base (lower crown, concrete base, support pillars, etc.), logs are fixed, which act as the basis for the subsequent placement of the boardwalk.

Laying of boards is carried out with gaps of 3-5 mm - through them, water will be freely drained from the washing room.

As a rule, such floors are made collapsible, which allows, if necessary, to remove the boards and take them out of the room for better drying.

The method is budgetary and easy to perform, but has a significant drawback - it is impossible to insulate this kind of floor.

In the case of leaking wooden floors, the structure can be equipped without observance of the slope: the water will go into the gaps between the flooring elements, and then into the ground under the bath.

Boards are laid without gaps. The possibility of parsing such a floor is not provided.

The system is equipped with a slope towards the drain hole - through it the water will drain into the water collector, and then through the pipe it will be discharged outside the building.

The design includes a "black floor" and a heat-insulating layer.

When arranging a non-leaking floor structure, special attention should be paid to solving the issue of ventilation of the underground space. As a rule, to ensure sufficient ventilation, a hole is made in the floor (or several, depending on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room) and a plastic pipe is inserted into it. Pipes with a diameter of 50 or 100 mm are optimally suited.

concrete floors

Relatively simple in arrangement, durable, reliable and unpretentious in maintenance design. In practice, pouring a concrete floor often requires much more modest financial investments compared to the construction of a wooden structure.

The concrete floor has the only drawback - it is cold. There are several options for solving the problem:

walk in shales;
insulate the floor well. The most popular option;
install a floor heating system. It requires tangible financial investments and the involvement of third-party specialists if the private developer does not have the appropriate skills.

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor in a washroom

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor consists of several main stages. First, the base is prepared, then the flooring is equipped (the technology is somewhat different for leaking and non-leaking floors), and then ventilation issues are resolved

Laying a wooden floor begins with the installation of a log. Usually larch or pine timber is used. Flooring, if possible, should be made of boards, the material of manufacture of which coincides with the log wood. As noted, the floors are equipped with a slope towards the drain hole (in the case of a leaking structure, this rule can be ignored).

Installation of the log is carried out along the width of the room, i.e. the smallest distance between opposite walls. If the room is square (for example, 4x4, 6x6, etc.), the lag can be installed in any direction.

Important note! Logs are mounted transversely with respect to the drain.

For greater convenience of perception, the information is divided into several steps, supported by illustrations and diagrams and presented in a table format.

Table. Lag installation

Stage of work, illustration	Description
Let's start with the arrangement of support chairs. Preparation, planning	To ensure sufficient rigidity and stability of the log, a support chair is arranged in the center of each of them. For the manufacture of such supports, you can use wood, brick or concrete pouring. In the case of using wood or bricks, a support platform with a thickness of 200 mm or more is pre-poured with reinforcement at least with a chain-link mesh. Make the dimensions of the platform such that it protrudes approximately 50 mm from all sides of the future support.
	Dig a hole for the base of each of the equipped sites. The recommended depth is 400 mm. Tamp and level the bottom of the pit and its walls. Fill the bottom of each recess with 10 cm of sand and compact it well, spilling it with water for better quality. Pour 15 cm of gravel on top and also thoroughly tamp. Install the formwork, pre-assembled from edged boards, into the prepared pit. You can use screws to fasten individual boards. In height, the formwork must rise at least 50 mm above the ground. Lay waterproofing material, such as roofing material, along the edges of the pit. Prepare concrete from 1 share of cement, 3 shares of clean sand and 4-5 shares of crushed stone. Water - approximately 50% by weight of cement. The consistency of the mixture should be quite thick. Fill the formwork with a 10-15 cm layer of concrete and compact it. Place a piece of reinforcing mesh on top of the fill, pre-cut in accordance with the dimensions of the formwork. On top of the mesh, pour the next layer of concrete up to the upper edges of the formwork and tamp thoroughly. Give the pads at least 1-2 days to dry.
	Apply preheated bitumen to the surface of the equipped concrete platform, and put a layer of roofing material on top. If the bath is erected on a tape base, the height of the concrete pads must correspond to the height of the tape, i.e. their "tops" should be at the same level.
	In the case of a columnar foundation, the supports must be erected to the level of the top of the embedded beam, on which the logs will rest in the future.
	In the photo you can see the finished concrete pad. For a better understanding, the structure is shown with a brick support already erected and a log laid on top. In the same photo you can estimate the dimensions of the brick support. Traditionally, it is laid out with the dimensions of 2x2 bricks, and the height is selected individually in accordance with the conditions of a particular building. Usually 4 rows are sufficient. Masonry is carried out on a standard solution of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and water. Lay out supports for each log. The number of supports is determined by the cross section of the beam. So, if you make logs from a bar / board with dimensions, for example, 15x10 cm or 15x8 cm, one such support in the middle will be enough. Installing supports every meter will reduce the cross section of the timber / board used to 10x5 cm or even 8x5 cm.
	After the erection of the planned number of supports, you can proceed to the stage of preparing the underground, or rather, the earth in this part of the structure. If it is planned to arrange a leaking wooden floor, and the composition of the soil on the site allows it to pass moisture well, fill the underground with 20-25 cm of gravel and tamp thoroughly. As a result, water will drain into the gaps between the flooring elements, pass through the backfill layer and soak into the ground. Crushed stone in this situation will take on the functions of a kind of filter that ensures normal removal of moisture, prevents silting of the underground and helps maintain a normal level of humidity.
	If the soil is not in the best way absorbs water, the work will become somewhat more complicated: you will have to equip a tray in the ground, through which in the future water will be discharged into the water collector (pit), and from there - outside the building. To implement the mentioned idea, you make a clay castle with a slope towards the water pit. Some developers resort to arranging a castle from concrete mortar, but this solution leads to an unreasonable increase in financial costs. The clay castle is made in the following order: you pour about 10 cm of gravel on the ground of the underground space, pour a 15 cm layer of clay on top, and then level it so that a gradually increasing slope is provided from everywhere in the direction of the tray to remove moisture. The recommended settings are shown in the diagram.
	If the arrangement of a non-leaking structure is planned, at the same stage you can insulate the underground with expanded clay, maintaining a minimum distance of 15 cm between the installed lags and the backfill to ensure effective ventilation of the underground space.
	Dig a pit near the wall in the washroom. A height of 300 mm and a width of 40-50 cm is usually sufficient. Tamp the walls of the pit and additionally strengthen them with clay. From the equipped pit, lead the pipe to remove moisture from the water collector to the planned place (sewer, gutter, etc.). Use a pipe with a diameter of at least 11 cm - the liquid will be discharged through it as quickly as possible. The pipe is laid with a slope, as can be seen in the diagram.
Let's start installing the lag	Fixing the lag is traditionally performed with anchors. When installing a non-leaking system, the first lag is laid near the wall opposite to the pit for collecting water. In accordance with the technology, the installation of the extreme logs should be carried out in such a way that they are at the highest elevation in relation to the rest of the elements - this will ensure the correct slope to the water collector.
	Those logs, the installation of which is carried out along the edges, are not equipped with notches. In other lags, cuts are created. Observe the mowing of the order of 0.2-0.3 cm. Similar cuts can be prepared in the areas of contact between the log and the supports erected for them (the width of the cut is provided along the width of such a support). The total slope of the finished surface should be about 10 degrees. When determining the depth of the cut to be created, be guided by the number of lags to be installed. For example, if your washroom has a small area and 4 lags are enough to build a floor, make deeper cuts than in rooms with six lags and a large number of such elements.
	When erecting leaking wooden floors, you can start installing the log from any convenient wall. The slope in this case is optional, so the elements can be installed at the same height. Saw a beam for a log according to the dimensions of the washroom. Keep in mind that between the installed lags and the walls of the room, an approximately 30-40 mm ventilation gap should be maintained.
	Before installing the log, the embedded crown / support must be covered with a waterproofing material. Usually ruberoid is used. You are already familiar with the technology for arranging such insulation. Additionally, the timber for the manufacture of logs is impregnated with an antiseptic.
	Be sure to control the horizontal fastening of the lag. If the control bubble in the level deviates from the center, hem the areas where the logs are in contact with the beam / support. Hem until the logs are level with the horizon.
	To control the correct fastening of the lag in relation to each other, also use the level. For greater convenience, put a flat board on the installed logs and place a control device on it - a level. Control is carried out near the walls, as well as in the center of the lag. If necessary, hem the installed logs or trim them with wooden linings.

The flooring of the mentioned structures will be carried out in a slightly different sequence, as a result of which there is a need for an individual consideration of two technological operations.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beam

Leaking wood floor decking

To perform this work, an unedged board is used. Pre-cut the flooring elements. The most even surface must be provided from the end of the boards. If you wish, you can immediately purchase an edged board.

Proceed to the arrangement of the flooring of the leaking floor, following the technology presented in the table.

Table. Floor decking with leaky structure

Stage	Explanations	Illustration
	Cut the boards to the dimensions of your washroom, keeping in mind that there must be at least a 20mm ventilation gap between the decking and walls.
	You can start from any wall convenient for you, erected parallel to the chosen direction of the flooring. Step back from the selected wall about 20 mm, lay the first deck board on the logs and nail the deck element. Select the length of the fasteners according to the thickness of the board to be laid. So, for fastening 4-centimeter boards, 8-centimeter nails are optimally suited.
	Nails are driven in approximately 1.5 cm from each edge of the board. Important note! When driving in nails, set them at about a 40-degree angle. To fasten the board to the joist, use at least 2 nails. Fasteners try to sink a little (about 1 mm) into the material.
	Having nailed the first board, proceed to fastening the second. The minimum recommended distance between decking elements is 3 mm. For greater convenience and to ensure the same gap width, you can use templates with the necessary parameters, made, for example, from fiberboard. Fasten all boards in accordance with the considered technology.
	As a rule, they refrain from painting the floor in the washroom - without paint, the material will dry faster. It is enough to limit yourself to a coating in the form of 2 layers of drying oil.

The procedure for arranging the flooring of a non-leaking floor in a washroom

For this flooring, a grooved board is used. Equip the flooring elements with a groove inside the room - the fitting process involves tapping with a mallet on the end with a groove. Otherwise, the sheet pile may simply break during the implementation of this event, because. it is 2 times thinner than the main canvas of the board.

The arrangement of the flooring is discussed in the following table.

Table. Non-leaking flooring

Stage of work, illustration	Explanations
	The flooring technology involves the preliminary arrangement of the "black" floor. Nail the bottom of the installed logs, along the edges, with wooden bars measuring 5x5 cm. Lay the boards of the “black” floor on the fixed bars. You can lay board cuttings, material of 2-3 grades, unedged boards, etc. Fix boards with nails.
	Lay a waterproofing material over the boards of the "black" floor, for example, a special film or roofing material.
	The technology involves the arrangement of a heat-insulating layer. Expanded clay is suitable for insulation. It is enough to fall asleep in the intervals between the lags. A second layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the insulation.
	After arranging the "black" floor, proceed with the installation of the tongue-and-groove boards of the finishing flooring. The basic recommendations are the same as in the case of a leaky floor, but the boards are laid without gaps. If you wish, you can refuse to fasten the flooring elements with nails - this way you can remove the boards and take them out of the washing room to dry. In this case, the following method of fixing the flooring is used: the boards are fixed from the edges with 2x3 cm bars. The bars themselves are attached to the logs with capercaillie screws. If necessary, the screws are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and taken out to dry.

vapor barrier membrane prices

vapor barrier membrane

Solving ventilation issues

The simplest option for organizing ventilation of the space between the "black" floor and the finishing flooring was mentioned earlier - holes are prepared in the floor and pipes leading out of the room are fixed in them. A diagram of such a system is shown in the following image.

Another option for providing ventilation is the arrangement of multi-level floors. In this case, the height of the floors in different rooms will be different. So, in the washing room, the floor is made on average 3 cm lower than in the dressing room.

The first option has received the greatest popularity among developers. The procedure is extremely simple: in the process of arranging the floor in the corners of the washing room, special holes are left in the base for further installation of ventilation pipes. Pipes having a diameter of 5-10 cm are mainly used. The material of manufacture may vary.

Directly pipes for ventilation are mounted after finishing the walls of the room. Ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5 cm or less can be masked under the skin if desired. More impressive pipes are usually mounted in the corners and attached to the surface of the walls with special clamps. It is advisable to install pipes with a diameter of more than 5 cm in baths that are visited more than twice a week.

Prices for different types of ventilation pipes

ventilation pipes

The procedure for arranging concrete floors

The concrete floor will last more than 25-30 years, while the service life of wooden flooring and logs is limited to an average of 6-10 years, however independent device capital construction will require more significant labor costs - you will have to prepare / buy a concrete mixture, pour it with reinforcement, laying thermal insulation and performing other related activities.

Instructions for self-arrangement of the concrete floor in the washing room are given in the table.

Table. The procedure for arranging a concrete floor

Stage, illustration	Description
	Moisture from the washroom will drain into the pit. Dig a hole for it. A pipe with a diameter of 15-20 cm is laid in the pit and discharged into the sewer system, gutter or other suitable place. The diagram shows optimal dimensions pit for a small bath 4x4. Change the recommended values in proportion to the dimensions of your room.
	We level the soil and fill it with about a 15-centimeter layer of broken brick. On top we fall asleep a 10-centimeter layer of gravel and carefully tamp. You can use a more traditional backfill option, replacing the broken brick with sand. Some developers first fall asleep rubble, and then sand. In general, each option is correct.
	On top of the backfill, we lay a layer of roofing material or other suitable roll material with approximately a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. Seams and joints are coated with bitumen for complete sealing.
	On top of the waterproofing material, we pour a layer of expanded clay for insulation. We select the thickness of the layer in accordance with the climatic features of your region. In the case of a washing room specifically, they are often limited to 5-10 cm backfill - and the costs are minimal, and walking on the finished floor is not so cold. Lay a reinforcing mesh over the expanded clay. Some developers limit themselves to using a chain-link mesh - for a compact room it is usually quite enough. A more reliable option is a mesh with cells of the order of 15x15 cm, assembled from 10-12 mm reinforcing bars. Standard flexible tie wire is used to fasten the rods at the intersections. The grid can be fixed with cement mortar. Often strips are made that simultaneously serve as guides.

The main work is done. It remains only to level the fill with a cement-sand mixture. The composition is evenly distributed over the surface and smoothed out with a suitable device, for example, a piece of edged board with even ends. To prepare the solution, it is best to use perlite, i.e. expanded sand - the screed will help to increase the reliability of the structure and its thermal insulation properties.

When using perlite, it is very important to maintain the correct proportions. Pour 2 buckets of expanded sand into a concrete mixer or trough for manual preparation of a solution. Pour about 10 liters of water into a container and mix everything thoroughly. After that, you will notice that the volume of the mixture has decreased by about 30% - these are the properties of perlite.

Next, add half a 10-liter bucket of perlite and mix the mixture for 5-10 minutes, then add 5 liters of water and continue mixing until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Then pour a bucket of perlite and about 2 liters of water into the mixture. Continue to mix until a practically free-flowing composition is obtained. Don't add water. Let the solution stand for about 10 minutes and resume mixing - the composition will gradually gain plasticity.

perlite prices

perlite 10l

For greater convenience, before the screed, you can fix guides on the base, for example, from a drywall profile - it will be easier to navigate along them. In large areas, you can’t do without guides at all, but in a compact washing room you can manage without them, controlling the evenness of the surface with a level.

Lay the plastic mixture on the floor and level it. Do not make a layer too thick - 10-15 mm is enough. Remember to observe the slope in the direction of the water intake. The mixture hardens for 4-5 days. You can put on top floor tiles. Use non-slip lining - this way you minimize the risk of injury to your washroom.

In the photo - the location of the lighthouses when forming a slope in the shower

Now you have a complete understanding of the procedure for arranging floors in a washing bath on your own. Follow the recommendations received, and you will be able to cope with the implementation of the considered activities as well as a professional master, significantly saving on the services of third-party workers and doing everything in at its best, because each technological operation will be controlled by you personally.

Successful work!

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Varieties of floor coverings in the washroom

Technology for arranging a wooden floor

Ventilation design device

Arrangement of a concrete floor

What and from what is better to make

Bath: draining water in a steam room or sink

How to do: instruction

How to paint

How to process or cover the floor in the steam room of the bath

Useful video

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Pouring wooden floor in the bath on stilts

Do-it-yourself floor in a bathhouse sink

Requirements for floors in soap rooms

Concrete floor in a washing bath

Wooden floor in the washing bath

How to make a floor in a bath in a washing room - planning and installation rules

Requirements for flooring in a car wash

Varieties of floor coverings in the washroom

Technology for arranging a wooden floor

Ventilation design device

Arrangement of a concrete floor

Requirements for floors in soap rooms

Concrete floor in a washing bath

Drainage

Installation of a warm floor slab

Floor heating in the washroom

"Pie" of the insulated floor in the washing room

Wooden base assembly

Installation of insulated concrete slab on wooden flooring

Concrete flooring in washroom

Features of the choice and installation of tiles

Wooden floor in the washing bath

Floor of the flowing (flowing) type

Mounting features of leaky coatings

Non-leakage type floor

The main types of floors for the washing room

concrete floors

The procedure for arranging a wooden floor in a washroom

Prices for wooden beams

Leaking wood floor decking

The procedure for arranging the flooring of a non-leaking floor in a washroom

vapor barrier membrane prices

Solving ventilation issues

Prices for different types of ventilation pipes

The procedure for arranging concrete floors

perlite prices

Video - Floors in the bath in the washing room