Edged board flooring. How to properly lay a wooden floor

29.08.2019

Not only the beauty of the room depends on the choice of flooring, but the durability and functionality of the floor. That is why many masters recommend making the floor from the boards. In addition, the installation of this material is so simple that you can make a floor from edged board on one's own. Such flooring unpretentious in use, durable and reliable. And most importantly, depending on the choice of finishing method (painting, toning, impregnation with oil, varnish, etc.), you can give the room the desired look.

Edged board selection

Before you make a floor from a board with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood. First of all, pay attention to the type of wood. Both the price per cube of material and the performance characteristics of the floor depend on this. For small rooms it is best to use elements from coniferous wood - pine, fir, larch, cedar, spruce. This material is different:

antibacterial properties;
harmlessness (this floor is suitable even for allergy sufferers and asthmatics);
practicality, durability;
acceptable cost (price pine board 4 cm thick is $60 per cube).

For children's and sleeping quarters, you can choose aspen or alder. Such wood is characterized by the absence of smell, as well as the safety appearance: even after many years of use, the floor will look like new. In the photo of the interiors on the network, you can see how beautiful the aspen or alder board looks in the room.

Also, when choosing, you should pay attention to the following product parameters:

Dryness degree. It is better to use a non-wet material, otherwise the service life of the coating will be short. Since it is not possible to check the degree of moisture content of the wood at the time of purchase, we recommend buying the flooring in advance so that it can mature in the room where it will be installed and adapt to its conditions.
Product quality. There should be no visible defects on the surface.
Design. To match the pattern and color scheme of the elements, purchase material from the same batch.
The size of the element. It is better to use floorboards with a length of at least 2 m. Usually, a cut board has the following dimensions: thickness 25-45 mm, and width 85-130 mm. Preference should be given to thicker products for their durability. The price per cubic meter also depends on the dimensions. So, 25 mm thick elements cost $46 per cubic meter, and the price of a 30 mm thick product is $58 per cubic meter.
Compound. For quick DIY installation, choose sanded and tongue-and-groove floorboards.

Important: when purchasing flooring, it is worth buying 15-20% more material. This is due to the peculiarities of laying, because some of the elements in the process will have to be slightly shortened.

Preparatory work

Edged boards can be laid on logs and a concrete base. At the same time, it is important to carefully level the floor, so a two-layer structure is often used, consisting of a rough base and a finishing floor. Therefore, when calculating the price of the floor, it is worth considering the purchase of materials for the base device.

Before you make the floor with your own hands, it is worth preparing the material. To do this, the logs and linings under them are treated with flame retardants and antiseptics to protect against burning and decay. Also, the base of the floor needs waterproofing. To do this, you can use penofol or ordinary polyethylene.

Laying the floor on the logs

To level the floor with large jumps in height, it is better to use logs. Optimal size log beam - 100x50 mm. For more information about laying flooring from boards on logs, see the video suggested at the end of the article. Work is carried out in the following sequence:

First, the installation of the extreme logs at opposite walls is carried out. Further, all other elements are stacked with a certain step along the stretched cord. Insulation can be placed in the space between the lags.

Important to know: the pitch of the timber depends on the thickness of the boards. For products with a thickness of 3-4 cm, the lag step is 800 mm. Boards with a thickness of less than 3 cm are laid on logs installed in increments of 50-60 cm. Boards thicker than 4 cm can be mounted on beams laid in increments of 1 m.

All logs are leveled and attached to concrete base using screws and dowels or anchors.
After installing the log, a rough flooring is made of fiberboard.
Next, you can do the finishing flooring with your own hands. At the same time, the size of the boards is selected so that the butt joint of all elements falls on the central axis of the log. The first row is laid, stepping back from the wall 15 mm. Elements are attached to the lags with self-tapping screws.
After laying all the boards, the skirting boards are installed. They will close the gaps between the flooring and the walls.

Plywood flooring

An example of laying plywood on logs for additional alignment

Plywood can be a good option for subfloors on a relatively flat base. With its help, you can level the old wooden or concrete base. Plywood practically does not deform, it is strong and reliable. However, the use of such a subfloor is not recommended in places with high humidity.

Plywood can be laid on a wooden crate or directly on a concrete surface. For its fixation, anchors, corners, self-tapping screws are used. The first laying method is suitable for uneven grounds. The size and pitch of the lathing beam depends on the thickness of the plywood and the unevenness of the base.

The installation process is so simple that it can be understood from the photo above:

First, a crate of timber is constructed on the floor. It needs to be aligned horizontally. The crate is attached to the base with self-tapping screws and dowels.
Further, to protect against condensation, the wooden crate is covered with glassine.
Now you can lay plywood. All joints of sheets should fall on the bars of the crate. A gap of 1.5-2 mm is left between adjacent plates to protect against deformation. Plywood is fastened with screws to the crate.
After that, you can lay edged boards in the same way as described in the first laying method.

Laying on a concrete base

Sometimes, in order to level the concrete base in a low room, a screed is made. Plank flooring can be done directly on the screed. However, to protect the boards from contact with concrete, it is necessary to make insulation from a primer mastic or polyethylene foam.

Sanded boards are laid out on the floor and numbered. Age rings on adjacent elements should look in different directions.
Laying is carried out from the wall with an indent of 15 mm. This slot is needed for floor ventilation.
Nails are hammered in at an angle with a deepening of the cap.
After mounting the first element at a distance of 40-60 mm, staples with a gap are driven into the wooden draft floor, logs or lathing bars. Then a wedge is driven between the board and the bracket. This will allow you to tightly press the edges of adjacent elements.
After that, the board is fixed with nails. Staples and wedge are removed. After a couple of rows of boards, you can again use staples and a wedge to tightly connect the elements. All boards are additionally compacted with a mallet.
To make it easier to install the last board, the tongue can be leveled with a planer. Then the board is glued and nailed with nails, which will subsequently hide under the plinth.

Have you decided to build a beautiful, warm and environmentally friendly house of your dreams? Then a rhetorical question will certainly become: what kind of floors will there be in this residential building? Of course, it will be a floor made of edged boards - and there should be no objections here.

To date, there are many options for synthetic flooring - all this looks very nice, easy to use, etc.

However, a masterfully laid plank floor made from good quality edged material:

first of all, it will advantageously decorate your new or overhauled house;
will make it home-style warm, cozy and, most importantly, durable.

In addition, such a coating is easy to care for, and it can also be repaired in a short time.

Edged lumber

Floor edged board - a material made (cut) from a log and sawn along the edges in such a way that no bark remains on its edges. The width of edged lumber is usually more than double the thickness. The range of applications in the construction market significantly exceeds consumer demand to unedged analogue.

Today, the most popular wood species suitable for processing are:

spruce: has a looser structure, but is endowed with increased thermal insulation properties, more often used in interior decoration;
pine: most often used for the construction of frames (in the construction of floors, roofs).

Based on the requirements of GOST 8486-86 “Sawn timber from needles”, which describes the requirements for the production of timber, lining and edged boards from pine, spruce and other types of coniferous wood, the material is divided into five grades:

1 - 4 grades (differ in quality and price);
selected 5th grade.

GOST provides for all parameters of geometric dimensions, defects that occur both on the surface of wood and on its edges. The material is 85-130 mm wide, with a thickness of 25-45 mm.

Advice!
In order for the edged floor board to serve you for a long time, you should choose a thicker one.
When buying, make sure that there are as few knots and bark residues as possible.

Edged board flooring

If you have had to make repairs in own apartment with your own hands - you can easily master the laying of a new wooden floor.

The following coatings are commonly used:

parquet boards;
grooved and edged boards.

Factors when choosing flooring from edged boards

Hardwood floors are not cheap. However, if you buy edged lumber, the price of which is much lower, and even produce flooring without the involvement of outside dealers, your floor will come out cheaper even from a laminate.

What should be kept in mind when choosing floorboards?

There are the following factors:

Humidity percentage. It is almost impossible to check this factor locally, so we recommend purchasing floor boards in the fall, laying them in place so that the material rests, “acclimatizing” to your conditions.
When buying, carefully check the material for the presence of: cracks, chips, knots and rot. Before laying, be sure to treat the boards with inside means (antiseptics) on a water basis against a fungus.

Remember!
The instruction for laying floors from edged boards suggests: logs should be equipped on any type.

Most often, logs are made of beams 50x50 mm. They are attached to the concrete coating with anchors, clearly in level. After, take boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm ( perfect option- 4-5 cm).

Step by step installation process

The first edged floorboard is laid parallel to the wall (the distance from it should be 1 cm, for which it is most convenient to use wedges of the appropriate thickness, driving them along the wall at a certain distance).
The board is attached to the lags (beams) with nails - two are driven in at all the intersections of the beam and the board. Hats should be completely "drowned".
When short boards hit, they should be laid to the middle of the log width. Each such end of the board is nailed with two nails.
Subsequent boards (4-5 rows) are applied tightly to each other, without hammering them with nails. The next (5th or 6th row) is laid at a short distance and lightly fixed with nails.

Now a pair of triangular wedges are cut out of any trim, which are inserted into the gap left. These wedges are driven with hammers towards each other, while compressing the floorboards.
In the presence of long rows, the number of wedges increases.
After that, the first rows are visually inspected for their tight contact, after which they are nailed.
The wedges and the separately “baited” board are removed and the operation with the next rows is repeated in the same order.
At the final stage, the laying of the last edged board remains, the width of which is adjusted using a jigsaw.

Summarizing

Ready and painted according to your choice, although it would be much more preferable to cover it with varnish: the natural unique pattern of the tree will remain in sight. Nowadays, you can choose a varnish of any shade you like.

As you can see, the process of laying edged boards is not complicated and is quite possible even for an inexperienced amateur craftsman. And the video in this article is ready to confirm all the information you read above!

Attention, only TODAY!

Choose the right one floorboard no less important than the design of the floor. After all, the final result largely depends on the board that was laid on the logs.

In the general case, the floor board can be any lumber fixed on the logs. Most often, this name is understood as a tongue-and-groove board. This is lumber that has three processed "finish" sides - two ends and one plane - the front side. On the sides special machine sheet piles are formed: on the one hand a groove, on the other - a spike. When laying, the spike is driven into the groove, which gives the coating additional strength and can partially hide the cracks formed during drying. Moreover, even a slightly dry tongue-and-groove floor looks good.

Tongue board may have a ridge different shapes. It is most convenient in laying if it has a conical shape. The cone easily enters even in the presence of a slight curvature of the boards. with spike rectangular shape fighting is much more difficult. If there are deviations, the board is not perfect, then you either have to suffer with it for a long time, or cut it into pieces no more than 2-3 meters long, and then join the segments. It turns out a completely different, untidy look.

Also, floor boards come with a quarter-shaped protrusion. This is when half the width of the board is removed on one side from below, on the other - from above. This type is even easier to install than a traditional tenon-groove board, while the floor looks just as good.

There is another type of floorboard - with edges beveled at 45 °. It is also not very common, although it is no worse in operation and aesthetics.

Sometimes an ordinary edged board is laid on the floor - it has a rectangular shape in cross section. It is placed close - end-to-end - and so fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. If we talk about baths, then when installing leaking floors, it is the edged board that will be the best option. In other cases, you need to give preference to options with any kind of locks: when drying, cracks are not so noticeable.

In addition to the grooved board from the array, there is also a glued one. It consists of several boards glued together. At the same time, the wood fibers are arranged in such a way that under any conditions its geometry remains practically unchanged. If it does change, it is many times less than massive. But due to the complexity of manufacturing such material, its prices are high. But the floor of the glued board is almost guaranteed to be flat.

Types of floorboard locks

There is another type of lumber that is laid on the floor. This is a deck board. It differs in that its front part is not even, but wavy. And even if the board is wet, it is not slippery to walk on it. It is rarely used indoors, mainly due to the fact that it is very difficult to bring an uneven surface to an ideal state. But when building a bath, it can come in handy if you arrange a pool or font on the porch. Having laid a decking around the pool, you can not be afraid that someone will slip.

Terrace board looks very attractive on the floor

Any kind of lumber is in the category "euro". There is a floor board, grooved or not, there is a terraced one. The whole difference is in the presence of a longitudinally located groove on the back side, which contributes to better ventilation. There must be a difference in the quality of the wood: no knots. But the best quality is not always available, and higher prices are always available. If you decide to take the option with a groove, be sure to meticulously check the quality of the material, geometry.

Types of wood for the floor

Any wood can be laid on the floor. The only question is your preferences and material possibilities. The purpose of the space can also play a role.

For baths, a coniferous board is traditionally placed on the floor. It is the most inexpensive, and its quality indicators are not bad. Coniferous species contain a large amount of resins (pine and spruce), some contain tannins (larch), which prolongs their life in conditions of constantly changing temperatures and humidity. The only drawback of pine and spruce is that they are soft rocks and if there are a lot of people steaming, they are quickly erased. But if the bath is family, occasionally visited, then such wood will stand for a long time.

If we talk specifically about the premises, then larch will behave better in “wet” conditions: it only becomes stronger from water. It is better to lay pine and spruce in a locker room or a rest room. They cannot stand the constant presence of water, especially since not many people want to treat wood for steam rooms with antiseptics, and without them they will most likely begin to rot.

They put wood and hardwood on the floor, but it is more prone to decay, and even more often darkens from water. There are still some nuances that are determined only by experience. For example, oak wood is durable, not afraid of water. But it is better not to put it on the floor in wet rooms: it is very slippery when wet. It is impossible to walk on it, so you will have to cover this beauty with anti-slip rugs.

It looks like a tongue-and-groove euro-board in profile

When installing a double plank floor for roughing and finishing, the boards must be taken from the same wood. For the subfloor, unedged will go (be sure to remove the bark and process from bugs), for the finishing - edged, tongue-and-groove. But only from the same wood. Otherwise, due to different amounts of expansion and contraction with changes in temperature and humidity, the floor may lead.

Floor board dimensions

The minimum thickness of boards for laying on the floor is determined by the step of laying the lag. The greater the distance between two adjacent supports, the greater the thickness of the lumber needed.

Table of the dependence of the thickness of the floorboard on the installation step of the lag

But this is the minimum thickness. It is advisable to take with some margin: taking into account the fact that periodically it will be necessary to update the appearance - to grind, removing the top layer. If the thickness is taken "back to back", after one or two grindings, the floorboards will begin to sag underfoot and creak - not the greatest pleasure. To get rid of the "dancing" boards, you will have to lay new, thicker boards, or reduce the lag step (increase their number), which is also not fun.

The width of the boards can be different - from 30 mm to 120 mm. In general, it turns out like this: the wider the board, the fewer joints and the faster the installation. Therefore, for ordinary dry rooms, you can choose a wide board. But it must be said that a cube of a wide board costs more than the same volume of a narrower one: there is more waste.

When choosing the width of the boards in the bath, there are also some nuances. It is better not to take wide boards: with increasing humidity, they change their geometry more strongly. Sometimes it is so strong that it becomes problematic to walk. Therefore, in the steam room or shower room, a narrow or medium-width board is used.

How many boards in one cubic meter

Having decided on the size of the floorboards, you need to calculate how many of them you need to buy: lumber is sold per cubic meter.

There are no strict standards in this industry, just as there is no clear distinction between varieties. Some producers distinguish only two varieties, others may have five or six. You have to focus on the spot.

The only thing that is clear is that higher-grade products should not have knots at all. It is advisable to buy them if you want to varnish the board. If you plan to paint, then there is no point in overpaying for the absence of knots: they are still not visible under the paint. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that they are not "dead" - black. Black knots crumble and fall asleep, but we don't need it.

There is only a more or less established standard in length: 6 meters. But many sawmills make both three and two-meter boards. Moreover, a cubic meter of three meters will cost less than six meters. So if you do not need a long board, look for the right size: it will be cheaper.

Now about how to count the number of cube boards. To do this, you need to calculate the volume of one board. You have decided on the width and thickness of the board, knowing the standard length, you can calculate its volume: you need to multiply all the dimensions. But they must be expressed in meters.

For example, we will lay a board 40 * 150 mm. Convert millimeters to meters:

40 mm = 0.04 m, 150 m = 0.15 m

We will take a standard length of 6 m. The total will be 0.04 m * 0.15 m * 6 m = 0.036 m 3. One board is 0.036 cubic meters. Now we find how many such boards will be in one cube (we divide the unit by 0.036) we get 27.7 pieces, but 27 pieces will be shipped.

Knowing this algorithm, you can calculate the number of any board or beam. To make it easier for you, the volume of one board of the most popular sizes and their number in a cubic meter are calculated and listed in the table (for six-meter lumber).

Now about the volume of purchases. Having calculated how many boards you will need, take with a margin of at least 10-15% (and preferably 30%). Firstly, marriage always occurs, and secondly, most likely in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out - cracks will appear, some boards will be unscrewed with a “propeller”. And then you will need to change or add boards. If there is nothing left, then those bought from another batch are unlikely to become normal. There will definitely be problems: either it will not work in thickness, or there will be problems with the tongue and groove. In general, a few pieces should lie in reserve for a couple of years.

How to choose

First of all, you need to determine the humidity. The best option for baths is an average humidity of about 20-25%. If you take a board of natural moisture, it will lead during drying, there will be many “skis” and “propellers”. Then they can only be used in the construction of fences. If you take overdried - chamber drying - in conditions of high humidity in the bath, it will begin to swell, the floor will warp and rise. So the best option is the average humidity.

First of all, when buying, you need to check the geometry. When choosing an edged board, pay attention to the fact that the edges are even. And the thickness on one side was equal to the thickness on the other side. In principle, you need to check this parameter when buying any sorted lumber (except for unedged boards). Take a caliper and measure in several places along the board on one side and the other. There shouldn't be any difference.

When buying tongue-and-groove boards, you also need to pay attention to the geometry and dimensions of the tongue and groove. In order for everything to connect without problems, the groove is made a little deeper than the height of the ridge. Then everything fits together easily. On an incorrectly tuned machine, the opposite is often the case. Then, no matter how hard you try, you won't be able to make a floor without cracks. You will either have to change the boards (if possible) or remove part of the spike.

There is another mistake that is made in the production of grooved boards: the upper edge above the spike (crest) is more profiled than the lower one. With such a defect, gaps are generally inevitable: it is more difficult to deal with this drawback. Only special equipment is required.

You also need to check how much the boards sagged during drying. They are stacked in piles, shifting with bars. Sometimes they become uneven. Then, when laying, it will be problematic to dock them.

All these shortcomings are revealed quite simply. First you need to inspect the ends of the boards. If you know what to look for (and you now know), the flaws are immediately visible. Estimate the dimensions of the tenon and groove, and also see if the edges are evenly located above the tenon. If everything is fine, take two boards and join them, as when laying. If their geometry is not broken, they are combined easily and without gaps. If the tests were successful, the grooved floor board can be taken: you will lay it quickly and easily.

How and what to fix

A few years ago, there were no discrepancies: the floorboard was nailed to the joists with nails through and through. Sometimes the hat was flattened and then driven deep into the chisel - this was so that nothing could be seen. Today you can do the same. And save at the same time: nails are cheaper. But after a while, a large number of cracks appear in the wooden floor. To get rid of them, the floor is dismantled, compacted, one or two boards are added near the wall - as it will. This is where self-tapping screws have an advantage: they are easier to dismantle without damaging the wood. And you try to get a nail with a flattened head and not break the wood. No way. Therefore, more and more often they “sit” on self-tapping screws, although the option is ambiguous: nails are stronger, and hats often fly off on self-tapping screws, especially hardened ones.

In a thorn or in a groove?

For hidden fastening, self-tapping screws are not fixed through the boards, but into a spike or groove. It is possible through and through, into the face, but then the hats will need to be drowned in the board, and the holes should be covered with putty. Even if the floor is painted, although this is done very rarely in baths. If you take wood putty of the appropriate color, and mix some wood dust from your boards into it, then almost nothing will be visible even under light varnish.

If the screws are screwed into the groove, then at an angle of about 60 °. If in a spike, then the angle is smaller - it can be almost perpendicular to the plane of the floor. The second option holds the board more securely (captures ¾ of the thickness), although the “groove” method is more common.

In any case, you first need to drill a hole for the cap with a larger diameter drill and a smaller one for the screw shaft. This operation, although time-consuming, serves as a guarantee that the board will not burst.

Hidden fastening technology

The technology of hidden flooring is as follows: the first board is nailed tightly through and through. The second and subsequent ones are attached, beaten with wedges, or better, they are attracted with clamps so that there are no gaps anywhere. Then fasteners are screwed into the groove or spike at an angle or clogged. If the wood is dense, the screws go hard. To make the process easier, the threads are lubricated with soap (it can be slightly moistened to make it easier to smear).

With this method of fastening, neither nails nor screws are visible. But, if there is one drawback: only one edge of the board turns out to be attracted to the log. With changes in humidity, shrinkage or movement of the foundation, the other may rise. It turns out the floor is uneven, and it creaks more often. Although, it is never too late to drive a few nails or screw a few self-tapping screws into the face.

What to take self-tapping screws

What screws to use for flooring in the bath? Preferably with a thread that does not start from the cap itself. This will make it safer to keep. And it’s better to take non-hot ones - they are stronger. For a bath, it is better - galvanized - they will not rust. The length of the screw depends on the thickness of the board: it should be 2.5 times larger. It seems that according to the parameters of self-tapping screws - everything. With nails, everything is simpler: you need ordinary ones, but not screw or corrugated ones - it is almost impossible to pull them out without damaging the wood.

It is better to take self-tapping screws with a thread that does not start from the cap itself

There is one secret inherited from the ancestors. It will allow you to use ordinary nails in the bath, but they will not rust: they need to be boiled in drying oil. Once dry, you can use. Such nails were used to nail the shingles to the roofs, and they did not rust for decades.

So: with the method of fastening and the choice of fasteners, you need to decide on your own. There is different opinions, and all of them are based on experience - one's own or ancestors. But it has long been known: how many people, so many opinions. Add more of yours. But remember that in a year or two the floor will have to be sorted out. So for the first time it is worth fixing on a minimum of nails or self-tapping screws - as you decide. Then, already shrunken, it will be possible to fix it thoroughly.

How the floorboard is installed and how clamps are used to eliminate gaps, see the video.

A device for tightening floor boards can be made by hand according to the attached video instruction.

Sex selection

The floor is the most intensively exploited part of the room. Therefore, the coating for it should be chosen from especially durable materials. Today, the flooring market is diverse and will satisfy the desires of any buyer.

Floor coverings are divided into:

rolled and sheet (linoleum, synthetic pile coating, superhard fiberboards);
piece materials(parquet, boards, ceramic tiles, laminate, concrete and stone slabs).

Roll and sheet materials on the modern market they are mainly represented by all kinds of linoleum and pile coatings. They are widely used in residential and office space with relatively low traffic volume.

Piece materials (parquet, board, ceramic tile, laminate) are most often used in residential premises. Parquet floors are laid both from piece parquet (separate planks), and mounted from parquet boards or parquet boards. Laminate floors are more hard and durable than parquet, and can be used not only in residential areas, but also in offices.

When choosing a floor covering, you need to pay attention to:

coating appearance. It should correspond (in style and color) to the interior of the room;
material quality. Not only the appearance, but also the service life depends on it;
expenses. They consist of installation costs and maintenance and repair costs over the entire life of the coating. Flooring that does not always seem cheap gives the desired savings;
environmental safety of selected materials.

clean and black floor

By their design, all types of wooden flooring consist of the so-called clean floor and black floor (base). A clean floor is the top layer of a floor that is walked on and is directly exposed to operational impacts. The subfloor is the basis for laying a clean floor. At the same time, it must be remembered that the subfloor on the first floors (above the basement) must be insulated with some kind of heat insulators ( mineral plates and other heaters) in combination with a vapor barrier film. As a base (subfloor), you can use chipboard (at least 18 mm thick), plywood (at least 12 mm), plank flooring (at least 20 mm).

If the new floor is laid on the old wood flooring, then you need to make sure that it is able to withstand the loads and that there is moisture protection under it.

If the base (subfloor) is sufficiently reliable, then the waterproofing can be laid directly on the old coating.

Wood sorting

The main characteristics of wood used for flooring are hardness, strength, density. The higher the hardness and density of wood, the less its wear and tear. At present, thanks to new technologies for drying and processing wood, a high-strength material (solid board) is obtained that meets parquet standards.

quality massive board- an excellent heat insulator, has high strength and elasticity, a groove is made on both sides along the edges of the board, which allows the floorboards to be tightly joined. Board width ranges from 80 to 150 mm, length - from 600 to 3,000 mm. Usually the thickness of the floor board is 20-40mm.

Wood products are sorted according to the cut, i.e., the texture of the wood, according to the presence of knots, the absence of sapwood (the young part of the wood located closer to the bark) and defects (cracks, oblique layer - deviation of the direction from the longitudinal axis of the tree) . It is rather problematic for a non-professional to check the quality of the material and determine the grade. Better contact a specialist.

Practice shows that best material for floors made of solid wood, which meets all modern standards, is produced by large enterprises. Therefore, when buying a board, preference should be given to large manufacturers and sellers that have proven themselves in the market. Usually, the higher the price of the product, the higher the quality.

Floors by concrete floor over a used basement

Flooring methods. It is necessary to start laying the floor after completing all the main works: windows, door frames and doors are installed, plastered surfaces are dried, ceilings and screeds are mounted. The relative humidity of the air in the room during the laying of the floor should be about 40-60%. The floorboard can be installed different ways: according to the so-called parquet technology and on logs.

First way(parquet technology) consists in laying boards on a prepared even base, for example, water-resistant plywood, chipboard. It is preferable if the thickness of the board is not more than 25 mm and the developer does not want to reduce the height of the room. The thickness of the floor in this case will be 30-40 mm, including waterproofing, plywood and the board itself.

Second way(laying on logs) has several features. Firstly, the thickness of the boards should be 40 mm (depending on the species and type of wood and a little less), since the material must withstand normal loads without noticeable deflections. Secondly, the height of the ceilings of the room will decrease by 65-90 mm. If the ceilings are high enough, this feature can not be attributed to the disadvantages. The obvious advantage of this laying method is the ability to smooth out almost any floor level differences without additional costs and weighting of the structure that occurs when leveling the floor with a cement screed or self-leveling mixture. In addition, electrical wiring, telephone and antenna cables can be carried out under the floor.

Preparatory work before laying the log on the floor of the underground garage

The first thing to do is to determine the quality of the subfloor (monolith or cement screed). The quality of the screed is checked by visual inspection and tapping. A good screed should not have cracks. Sections of the screed that have peeled off as a result of tapping must be replaced. It takes 30 days for the screed to dry completely and the humidity in the room to return to normal. After that, hydro and sound insulation is laid. Strips of rolled polyethylene are laid on the screed with an overlap of 20 cm.

To increase sound insulation, you can additionally put a layer of pressed cork or sheet rubber on the screed.

Sometimes polyethylene foam is used with a thickness of 3-3.5 mm, which simultaneously serves as both waterproofing and soundproofing. The soundproofing material is laid directly on the waterproofing film end-to-end and the joints are fastened with adhesive tape.

What should be the lags

For logs, unplaned boards of the 2nd and 3rd grades are used from healthy coniferous and hardwood, with the exception of linden and poplar. Boards may have a blunt ob-zol without bark. The thickness of the lag, resting with the entire lower surface on the floor slabs or soundproofing layer, should be 40 mm, width - 80-100 mm. The thickness of the logs laid on separate supports (columns in floors on the ground, floor beams, etc.) should be 40-50 mm, width - 100-120 mm. The width of the wooden spacers laid on the posts under the logs in the floors on the ground should be 100-150 mm, length - 0.2-0.25 m, thickness - at least 25 mm.

Laying lag on the floor of the underground garage

This is one of the most important work, since the strength and durability of the entire floor structure depends on it. As a log, a 50x100 mm beam is used, which is pre-dried and coated with a wood preservative. Humidity log at the time of laying should not exceed 15%. But it is better to dry the timber before laying. During the drying process, it can bend or twist, and such bars are necessarily rejected.

The direction of laying boards can be any and depends on the desire of the designer and developer. However, the joists should always be perpendicular to the boards. Usually the floorboard is laid along the direction of light from the window, therefore, the logs are laid perpendicular to this direction in increments of 50-55 cm. The length of the step depends on the thickness of the board and the type of wood from which it is made. The thicker and stronger the board, the greater the load it can withstand, therefore, the distance between the lags can be made larger.

lag mount

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, so the logs must be constantly checked before fixing with a level or level along and across the room. It is recommended to fasten the ends of the log so that they do not separate when laying the boards.

The logs are fixed to the concrete base with dowel-nails 120 mm long every 0.5 m and leveled with wooden wedges.

Currently, adjustable logs are commercially available, which are leveled with special spacer screws. This greatly simplifies and speeds up the installation process, but increases the cost of floor production and slightly reduces the height of the ceilings. To improve sound insulation and eliminate the hollowness of the floor voids when walking, the cavities between the lags can be filled with wood fiber boards in 2-3 layers.

floorboard flooring

After installing and leveling the log and laying the fiberboard, they proceed directly to the flooring of the floorboard. It is necessary to lay the floor so that the annual rings of adjacent boards are directed in opposite directions. The first row of boards is laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall and aligned along the stretched thread. Boards are attached to each lag. Each subsequent board is put on a spike, knocked out with a mallet and nailed with 100-120 mm nails. The dimensions of the boards themselves are selected (if necessary, they are cut down) in such a way that the joints between them are in the middle of the lag and are located exactly at right angles to the long edge of the board.

For ventilation in wooden floor at the corners of the room, it is advisable to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm, which are closed with a grate.

On the top of the beams, grooves up to 20 mm are cut out over their entire width, which also improve air circulation. The gaps between the wall and the floor are covered with skirting boards. Plinth - a figured lath with a width of 20-50 mm and a height of 40-70 mm. TV and telephone cables can be passed under the plinth. For this, as well as for ventilation, the back side of the plinth is made with a removable chamfer. After laying the cables (if necessary), the plinth is fixed to the wall with nails or screws, and the holes are sealed with mastic or plastic plugs.

Plank floor sanding

The best way to sand a wooden floor is with a floor-mounted mobile sander. With removable sanding belts of various grain sizes: coarse - for processing hard woods, medium - for soft woods and fine - for finishing. For grinding the floor near walls and other areas that are not accessible to the floor machine, use an angle grinder ("grinder") with abrasive nozzles of different grain sizes.

Grind the floor in several passes, gradually reducing the grain size of the sanding belt (circle). Between the first and second sanding, a special putty mixed with wood dust is used to close up minor cracks and flaws in the wood. After that, the cracks become completely invisible.

Painting, varnishing

Immediately before painting, it is necessary to vacuum the floor well, clean it from wood residues and dust. The surface can be treated with a tinting composition. parquet varnish(better on a polyurethane basis) is applied in several layers: usually in two layers, but a third may be needed.

Currently, strong and stable nitro-varnishes, which are not easy to use and not safe for human health, are gradually being replaced by one-component polyurethane and acrylatex compounds, which are diluted with water. They are easy to apply, dry quickly and almost do not smell.

Polyurethane varnish is usually applied in two layers. Lacquer and paint are applied along the boards. The first layer should not be too thick. The second layer is usually applied after two hours.

overlap in wooden house

The structure on which the floors of the first floor are located is called the basement. The main load-bearing elements of the basement are brick columns with a section of 25x25 cm. The columns are made of solid brick grade 75 (at least) on cement mortar grade 25. The distance between the posts should be within 0.5-1 m. After waterproofing, beams or logs are laid on the posts, on which the floors are then laid.

Beams without intermediate supports

In the case when it is possible to use a sufficiently strong and long timber, the basement ceiling is installed along the beams. If the beams are laid 0.6 m apart, then the floorboards must also be at least 28 mm thick. With a distance between the beams of 0.75 m, floorboards with a thickness of 36 mm are used. So that the boards do not warp and there are no gaps between them, their width should not exceed 12 cm. Logs and boards do not reach the walls by 2-3 cm. The gaps between the flooring and the walls are covered with a plinth.

The technology of the installation of plank floors on wooden floors

Boards should be selected so that the cleanest of them, without knots, chips and other defects, are laid in rooms, and with defects - in corridors, semi-dark and dark rooms. The boards should not have wood-boring bugs or traces of mold house fungus. Therefore, it is imperative to carry out antiseptics.

Plank floors are laid directly on the beams, if their step is relatively small. With a rare arrangement of beams, it is necessary to lay the logs with the desired step, and then fill the boards on them. Logs are placed at a distance between the axes of 800-850 mm for boards with a thickness of 35-40 mm. With thicker boards, the step between the lags can be increased to 1 m, with thinner boards, reduced to 500-600 mm.

The wooden floor must have a zero slope, so beams and logs must be constantly checked using a level or level along and across the room.

It is recommended to fasten the ends of the log so that they do not diverge when laying the boards. The floor should fit snugly against beams or joists and not sag. It is not recommended to put chips or wedges under logs and boards, as they fall out from vibration and the floors become unsteady. If, nevertheless, wedges are necessary, then they need to be fixed with nails.

Fastening plank floors to hardwood floors

The first board is attached to the log with nails, the length of which should be 2-2.5 times the thickness of the boards. Nails are hammered one (two) into each lag, driving the hat 2-3 mm deep.

The gap between the laid boards should be no more than 1 mm.

Before painting the floors, the recesses around the caps are puttied. For a tight installation of the next board (so that it does not give up), a tongue-and-groove bar is laid on the adjacent log and wedged with an emphasis on a steel bracket. This technique is called rallying. In order not to damage the boards, hit them with a hammer through a wooden gasket.

Laying plank floors "parquet way"

The nail is hammered into the first board closer to the wall so that its head is under the plinth. Then, at an angle of 45 °, a nail is driven into each lag inner corner comb, and the hat is “drowned” in the thickness of the wood. The second board is applied to the first board, putting the groove on the comb and pressing it with staples and wedges. Nails should be hammered first into the extreme logs, then into the remaining ones. The last boards should be pressed with a wedge and a straight nail should be driven vertically into the plinth area.

Plank floor ventilation

To prevent the development of mold fungus, a ventilated space should be provided under the plane of the floor covering, and it is advisable to place special ventilation grilles in the floor itself (at least two pieces in each room). V large rooms put four grids. They are placed in the corners at a distance of 150-200 mm from the baseboards.

Sometimes, instead of gratings in the plinth, several holes are drilled with a diameter of 1 cm at a distance of 500-600 mm. Under the logs resting on brick columns, two layers of roofing material should be placed under the logs to ensure waterproofing and protect the wood from mold.

Floors from milled boards

Thanks to tongue-and-groove edges, floors made of milled boards are distinguished by increased density, evenness and less tendency to deformation during temperature and humidity fluctuations. The width of such boards should be 68-138 mm, and the thickness should be 28 or 36 mm. At the bottom of each board, a longitudinal recess (air) 2 mm high is selected, which ensures tighter contact with the lags and constant air circulation throughout the entire inter-lag space. It is necessary to prevent the development of mold and drying of the flooring.

Groove board floors

On the sheet pile boards lower recesses are not made, and it is more difficult to lay them, since with the slightest unevenness of the board it is impossible to lay tightly on the logs or beams, and the irregularities have to be removed with a fence. For tongue-and-groove boards front side, and folds are selected from the edges. In addition, such boards may have grooves on both sides, which are connected by a rail during assembly. The density of such floors and the quality of the finish are higher than those of milled ones.

Siberian larch floors

Siberian larch has a high density, so sometimes you can use boards of a smaller section and thereby save material. By the way, unlike some types of parquet boards, where technologies are used for gluing hardwood veneer (usually oak) on a softwood base, a larch floorboard is monolithic, has a uniform structure, and this determines its exceptional durability. to wear.

Of course, due to its natural strength, oak is the traditional breed for the manufacture of parquet. It should be noted, however, that the world reserves of oak suitable for making floors are limited, the cost of this wood has increased significantly in recent years. But with the advent of new technologies for processing Siberian larch, it is she who can become the main material for the production of parquet and other floor coverings.

The main advantages of Siberian larch floors

Larch parquet board is especially hard, moisture-resistant, wear-resistant, which makes the floor so durable. Thanks to the use of modern equipment, the parquet board has an ideal geometry, and the floor is even and tight. Products are made without knots and flaws on the working surface of the floor. Smooth sanding of a parquet board creates a surface ideal for tinting, varnishing or waxing, without pre-sanding.

Environmentally friendly raw materials used in the production of parquet boards, allows you to use it in children's rooms and bedrooms.

A convenient docking system (groove-groove on four sides of the board) will help make the laying process easy and fast. The minimum thickness of the parquet board is 20 mm and the groove - the comb, shifted to the bottom - allows you to significantly increase the service life of the coating due to a large number possible cycles. Along the perimeter of the board, an “anti-skol” chamfer was made, which makes it possible to reduce the likelihood of splitting the edge of the board during laying and favorably highlights the contour of the boards against the general background of the floor surface.

Floor technology wood boards

For flooring, super-hard slabs 20 mm thick with a top wear layer of 5 mm are used. The joints of the plates should be on the center lines of the log. It is not allowed to hang plates with a log of more than 100 mm.

They begin to lay the slabs along the logs from one of the longitudinal walls, as a rule, the furthest from the door. A gap of 10-15 mm is left at the wall, which is then covered with skirting boards. After alignment of the lighthouse plate, it is attached to each log with nails 50-60 mm and a diameter of 2.5-3 mm or screws 35-40 mm long and 4 mm in diameter. Nails are hammered along the edge of the slab every 200 mm, screws are located every 300-350 mm. The following slabs are laid similarly to a lighthouse with a minimum gap of up to 1 mm. Then skirting boards are installed, joints and nail heads are puttied, the surface is cleaned with sandpaper and covered with two layers of varnish. The top layer is applied after the bottom layer has dried.

Laying a new floor on an old one

Before starting work, it is necessary to make sure that the old floor can withstand the loads and there is moisture protection under it. If the base is reliable, then it is permissible to lay the waterproofing on the old coating, having previously done a rough grinding with an abrasive tape with a grain size of 40-60 units. It is not necessary to change the direction of laying the new coating in relation to the old one. It is enough to cover the old floor with sheets of plywood and lay a new coating on it. However, the diagonal and transverse directions of the new coating in relation to the old one are optimal.

Pros and cons of plank floors

Plank floors are a reliable and easy-to-use type of floor, quite common in individual construction. The simplicity of the device is their main advantage. These floors are very warm and easy to repair. The disadvantages include low decorative qualities and such a fairly common phenomenon as creaking.

Floor insulation

Floor structures must be insulated with any effective heat insulator. However, one must not forget that wooden structures must be isolated from the insulating material. To do this, you can use a polymer film, glassine or clay grease.

Prepared by A. Svatkov

Do not avoid wood floors, just try to properly care for them, this way you will achieve a long service life and external gloss. A floor board is a classic coating, it is no worse than parquet, but it tolerates operational impacts much better. And on dry board cube price lower than the always expensive parquet. The beauty of the appearance of such floors is complemented by the following advantages: - minimal sound conductivity;

They are warm;

wear-resistant;

smooth;

Noiseless when walking;

Do not emit fine dust.

But over time, the floor boards can sag, gaps become noticeable between them, they begin to creak. The degree of wear here will depend on the intensity of movement along them and the temperature and humidity conditions of the room itself. Worn coating must be repaired, the repair is divided into: full and partial.

With a complete repair of a wooden floor, the entire coating is changed, with a partial repair of a wooden floor, only unusable boards are replaced. Before starting the repair, carefully inspect the floor and orient yourself with the scope of the repair, make a purchase of materials.

WHERE TO START REPAIR TO REPLACE THE FLOORBOARD.

Take a hammer, saw forest lumber board, wedges. Be sure to bring the boards into the room in advance, so they will adapt to the moisture and temperature conditions of the room. Start nailing them where they will intersect with the beams. At the same time, indent from the walls by 20 mm. Use wedges of the correct size. This ensures good ventilation of the underground. Then it will lie on the crack plinth floor wooden, and the indentation from the walls will be hidden.

The laying of the floor is preceded by the installation of the base - beams. These are bars with a cut of 50x70 mm, they are placed at the same distance between themselves (no more than 50 - 60 cm). If these dimensions are not observed, the boards may bend. wooden beams be sure to impregnate with solutions that will prevent their decay.

HOW TO LAY THE BOARD CORRECTLY

Nail the floorboard to each beam using two nails. Then lay 5 boards in a row, but do not nail them. Skip the row and nail the sixth. After that, squeeze the loose boards together using wedges and a hammer. Those boards that have already been compressed can be nailed. Then the procedure is repeated. Lay down five boards, and squeeze them with wedges. If the last board is large and won't fit, cut it with a jigsaw. Once you get started, you can make sure edged board price easy to put on.

Finishing will be the final step. It includes such processes: scraping floors, applying varnish (rubbing). When scraping, do not remove wood more than 1 mm. At the end of the treatment, the floor is cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.