The front door is the calling card of our home, and many of us want it to look solid and beautiful. After all, the owner is often judged precisely by her appearance.
It is easier with wooden doors - after installation, it is enough to cover them with varnish or stain. But for more reliable protection apartments or houses from uninvited guests, most owners prefer to put iron door.
Finishing metal doors has several options, which we will tell you about. Of course, doors are sold already finished, but it is so monotonous, especially cheap options, that many people want to do everything their own way.
In addition, the decorative layer on the door will serve as an additional soundproofing for it. Perhaps you are quite satisfied with the quality of the old door, and just want to give it a more noble look.

For this work, you can use various materials, which can be marked according to the method of installation and the possibility of application.

MDF

One of the most popular materials that can be used to finish the entrance metal door- this is MDF. This wood-fiber material is conventionally divided into three types: painted, veneered and laminated.
So:

• As for the painted MDF, it is better not to use this option in this case, because the painted surface does not have much strength. Leave it for interior finishing work.
• Laminated MDF panels are moisture resistant and have sufficient strength. The top layer of PVC has excellent decorative properties: a smooth surface and a texture that imitates natural wood.
  Here they are great for finishing doors.

• The most durable and durable type is veneered MDF. Here, birch or oak veneer is used as a facing material.
  Sometimes they use veneer and more expensive species - ash, beech or mahogany. Naturally, the price of MDF increases at the same time.

With the same success, finishing a metal front door can be done using a laminate that serves as a floor covering.

• It is somewhat different from laminated MDF in its construction, and has a much higher strength.
• The basis of the laminate is also fiberboard, but of a higher density, which is pressed with several layers of paper impregnated with acrylic or melamine resin - a kind of "layer cake".

• With all this, its maximum thickness is only 1.2 cm. Therefore, it is very convenient to use laminate for door finishing.
  Since this material is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, temperature extremes and high humidity, it can sheathe not only the front door of the apartment, but the door of a private house overlooking the street.

powder coating

This type of door decoration is produced only in the factory. This is very quality coating metal powder paint, which is produced by electrostatic spraying and subsequent baking in industrial furnaces.
So:

• Such paint is a fine-crystalline substance containing substances that form a film. It never peels on the surface, therefore it protects the metal from corrosion as much as possible.
• Powder coating is not afraid of mechanical stress, has dielectric and antistatic properties. A huge range of colors allows you to create a coating with any imitation - even leather, even granite, even gold.
• Powder coating is one of the most expensive decorating options.. Especially if these are metal doors with wrought iron trim.
  The cost of such doors may also depend on the complexity of the forged elements.

Cladding from lining

Finishing a metal door with your own hands can be done by sheathing wooden clapboard. This board is made from different breeds wood, so the buyer can always find what he likes and suits the price.

• When finishing the door with clapboard, there is a lot of room for design. Reiki can be placed at different angles, separated by decorative strips, carved, burned, painted.
  The photo below is an excellent example of a door design using a clapboard.

• The question immediately arises: "How to finish a metal door with a tree?". After all, you can’t nail it to metal with a nail.
  The answer is simple: for this you need to make a frame of thin strips.
• They are attached to the door with metal screws, decorative slats are already stuffed into the frame. In order to create a soundproof layer, the internal cavity of the frame can be filled with insulation.

We talked about the most popular types of door finishes. There are other options, for example: vinyl and leather.
AT Soviet time this is how most of the citizens' doors were finished. This is the most cheap option, but he outlived himself as the most fragile.
The most expensive finish can be considered a door decorated with solid oak. This is an elite product, such decoration is carried out by the manufacturer in the process of making the door - it is very difficult to work with such a durable tree at home.

How to fix the cladding

In this matter, it all depends on the condition of the door itself and the material you choose for finishing.
If it is MDF or laminate, then the panels just need to be glued to the metal surface:

• For better adhesion of materials to each other, the surface of the door must be primed. This is a necessary measure, otherwise the connection may not be strong.
• To fasten the trim elements, you can use the glue "liquid nails". As an additional fixation of the decorative layer, it can be fixed with metal corners.
• In principle, lining can also be fixed in this way. But a natural wood board is much heavier in weight than MDF panels, so nailing will be much more reliable.
  In other cases, gluing is much more preferable - nails will simply ruin the front side of the panels.

slopes

The installation of a new door, or the sheathing of an old one, cannot be considered complete if the slopes are not sealed. A slope is a part of the wall that frames the door around the perimeter.
When dismantling an old door, they can be broken, if not constructively, then cosmetically. The finishing of slopes after the installation of metal doors is carried out in order to strengthen the assembly seam.
There are several options and we will tell you about them:

• The easiest and cheapest way is plastering. This is quite easy to do - all you need is a tool called a template.
  It is needed in order for the slope angle to be perfectly even. For clarity, watch the video.

• The mortar for plaster is mixed from a dry mix on a gypsum or cement basis, which are sold in 25 kg bags. One bag of this mixture is enough for one door.
• First, they make the upper slope, and then proceed to the side slopes. When everything is ready, the plaster must be completely dry so that its surface can be sanded. sandpaper.
  Then it is covered with a primer - and you can at least paint it, at least paste it with wallpaper from the inside.
• If you do not want to plaster, you can make slopes from sheets of plastic or drywall. A little instruction, however, will not hurt you.
  It is necessary to navigate which material for the slope can be used, based on how the door is finished, or the wall adjacent to it.
• If we are talking about the outer side of the slope overlooking the entrance, then here you have to: either plaster it, or sheathe it with drywall, and then paint it. Plastic can be used to finish the part that is inside the apartment, if there are such walls in the hallway.

• To finish the slopes after installing the metal door looked harmonious, it is better to use the material with which you lined the door. Considering that MDF and laminate most often have a wood texture, then the slopes can also be made of wood, choosing the material by color.
• A wooden slope on the front door will look appropriate and beautiful. First, the mounting seams are sealed with foam, then its excess is cut off.
  The wall is cleaned and treated with a primer, after which the starting strips are mounted, which are attached to the wall with dowels.
• The top slope is installed first. You can fix it with glue or self-tapping screws - then their caps will then need to be closed with decorative plugs.
  The seams of the slope are sealed with a colorless silicone sealant and closed with plastic corners or a casing.

What is good about the wooden trim of the slope of the front door - you can even arrange a backlight in it. Then you don't have to fumble for the switch in the dark. Spotlights built into the upper slope will automatically light up when the door is opened.

From the article you will learn:

In order to make the outer door look attractive and also not let the outside cold air and loud sounds, it is often sheathed modern materials with a number of specific characteristics.

The choice of type of material for sheathing depends on the design of the door, its shape and on what the door leafs are made of. An important factor is the location of the product - it is necessary to finish with more resistant materials than structures placed indoors.

Below we will consider the most popular options for finishing entrance doors and evaluate their advantages and disadvantages.

Cladding with wood panels

solid wood considered the most expensive material for cladding entrance doors. It is usually used to decorate metal structures not only from the inside, but also from the outside. Wood panels look very nice with carved or scorched patterns, as well as milled finishes.

Noble wood gives elegance and style to even the simplest door panels, makes the entrance to the dwelling unique and speaks of the high status of its owners. original material texture and exquisite decorative elements make the door the focal point of exterior or interior design. The combination of wood and metal looks peculiar and beautiful, so you can add forged parts and fancy fittings to the sheathing.

Marine plywood finish

feature marine plywood is its high strength, resistance to moisture and the ability to endure significant temperature fluctuations without consequences. The material acquires similar properties due to its treatment with stain and coating with a protective, frost-resistant varnish.

From the outside, plywood looks like solid wood of noble species and looks very attractive. However, the high cost of this material does not allow everyone to use it for finishing doors.

Quality marine plywood must meet the following criteria:

• have polishing on both sides;
• consist of veneer of a certain grade;
• the joints of the layers must be well glued.

Each layer of plywood is bonded to the others with a special formaldehyde-based adhesive. This technology makes the material even more resistant to various external influences, and therefore it is used with pleasure by cabinet furniture manufacturers and designers for decorating entrance doors.

Sheathing with MDF panels

Many homeowners prefer to panel their entrance structures with pressed wood fragments glued together with resinous substances. Such panels have a number of attractive properties that are not available in natural wood. Among them:

• moisture resistance;
• heat resistance;
• decay resistance.

Except high performance strength, MDF panels are materials that are safe for environment. A variety of their colors and designs allows you to decorate the door structure in any style. To order, you can make decorative overlays with an individual pattern or glue them yourself with a film. When sheathing, the panels are fixed directly on the door leaf or previously.

MDF panels are quite heavy, so the total weight of the door after sheathing must be calculated in advance and hinges must be prepared with a significant margin of safety.

When lining metal doors with pressed panels, special care must be taken in the areas of seam welding, and also take into account deviations from the standard shape of its wings. You can identify such a deviation and determine its size by comparing the size of the diagonal lines.

Laminate finish

Laminated panels, in fact, also refer to the type of glued-pressed boards, consisting of wood fibers. A special film is applied to the surface of such plates at high temperature, which has high strength, antistatic properties and the ability to repel water. Thanks to this film, the panels, even with a small thickness (about 7-8 mm.), Can withstand mechanical loads and temperature changes well.

The film is available in different color scheme, with a pattern and plain, and therefore allows you to decorate the doors as you want the owners of the room. Laminate is easy to use, easy to maintain, but still sensitive to excessive moisture, and therefore not suitable for cladding street entrance doors.

Clapboard lining

Natural lining gives the door leafs natural aesthetics, neatness and pleasant appearance. It resembles ordinary wooden slats, but has special fasteners along the edges that allow you to assemble individual elements into a single canvas. The thickness of the rails can vary from 6 to 20 mm.

Traditional lining is made from edged boards trees of different species: spruce, aspen, linden, pine and others. There are also modern modifications of lining made of chipboards, as well as plastic. Depending on the type of wood, the method of attaching the rails to each other, as well as their thickness, the lining is divided into ordinary and eurolining.

The lining for lining the entrance doors is pre-treated with an antiseptic agent, and after completion of the work, they are coated with fire-resistant varnish.

For apartment doors, as a rule, inexpensive and not very dense pine is used, and outdoor structures are sheathed with durable clapboard made of larch or oak, famous for their resistance to water and extreme temperatures. You can also use plastic lining - it is inexpensive and does not rot, but it will have to be changed often, as it quickly fades in the sun.

In the composition of sheets of polyvinyl chloride plastic, called vinyl plastic, includes thermal and light stabilizers that increase their resistance to adverse effects and improve performance. For lining door panels, a special brand of vinyl plastic is used - VD, called decorative. The panels of this brand have a thickness that is ideal for work - it is 1.5-3.0 mm.

Viniplast - a panel consisting of two layers: PVC and fiberboard of increased hardness.

Vinyl plastic sheathing tolerates temperature fluctuations well, is resistant to mechanical stress and belongs to materials that are safe for human health.

Artificial leather, also called leatherette or vinyl leather, is considered the most inexpensive material for door trim. Of course, it cannot compete with more solid materials with its strength, resistance to damage and protective properties, however, it also has a number of advantages:

• small price;
• a large selection of colors;
• Lots of embossing and texture options.

Viniliskin is sold in rolls of various sizes and widths. The standard dimensions of the material correspond to the width of a typical door and range from 110 to 150 cm.

Vinyl leather upholstery options

Unlike wood-based materials, artificial leather is not afraid of water - it can be mounted on doors to wet rooms. However, it is not necessary to sheathe street structures with it, since the resistance to mechanical stress of the leather substitute is low. The foam lining gives the lining insulating properties, and decorative carnations can create a beautiful decorative pattern.

On the sequence of work related to the application of popular finishing materials on the front door, can be found in the relevant article entitled "Options for finishing the front door":

There are situations when you have to repair wooden doors. After all, nothing is eternal, and even wood, which is considered durable material, needs renovation. In this article we will talk about situations in which you need to repair the door. Most defects can be eliminated even by a home master, without the involvement of expensive specialists.

Eliminate door skew

If you have a skewed wooden door, this section will help you deal with the problem. Skewed doors appear due to a number of operational or technical qualities of the material. For this reason, the first step is to find out the cause of such a deficiency.

During operation, even the most expensive types of wood require inspection and preventive maintenance: lubrication and adjustment of hinges, surface cleaning, coating of functional elements with special mixtures.

The cause of malfunctions or damage to the door structure may lie not only in improper operation or mechanical failure. Quite often, the problem lies in the quality parameters of the product, violation of its production technologies, installation or storage conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to buy doors from reliable and trusted companies that guarantee a specific period of operation and provide certificates of compliance with Russian standards.

The main reasons for the distortion of doors made of natural wood include:

• high indoor humidity
• constant dampness
• significant temperature fluctuations.

Most often, this problem is faced by owners of summer cottages, rural houses or country cottages used seasonally. Due to the lack of heating in winter, the internal elements of buildings become damp and freeze, and with the onset of heat, condensation forms on them. Summer heat causes moisture to evaporate from the wood and warp.

Even in apartments and houses of permanent residence, a wooden door needs special protection from distortion, the use of penetrating impregnations and effective coatings.

If the door is already skewed, this can be corrected, but the door will have to be removed from its hinges. To do this, you will need a planer, which you need to remove extra millimeters of wood from the ends of the canvas, as well as paint and varnish. In the event that the doors are severely warped, then it can be repaired with felt or rubber gaskets. The width and dimensions of the gaskets are selected individually, taking into account the actual state of the structure and pre-made measurements. Fixation of the tapes of the cushioning material is carried out with small nails, special glue, furniture or construction stapler. The fastening method depends on the characteristics of the door leaf and the level of its operational load.

Replacement of wooden doors

The procedure for replacing a wooden door is not an easy one. Before undertaking such work, you need to think carefully, perhaps the shortcomings can be corrected without a complete replacement of the door.

In the event that the doors are badly warped or badly scratched, replacement is indispensable. To start installing a new door, you need to remove the old one. For this job you will need:

• a hammer
• nail puller
• chisel
• wood cutter.

Before starting dismantling, furniture and flowers must be removed from the room. What cannot be endured should be covered from dust with a cloth or plastic wrap. In the case of replacing the front door, the work should be carried out only in dry weather.

Next, you need to remove the trim on both sides of the door frame. If the architraves look good and you want to reuse them, then you will have to work very carefully. You can update them by puttying and painting.

After dismantling the platbands, it is the turn of the door itself. You can use a screwdriver to remove the door. It is necessary to unscrew the screws screwed into the door itself and into the jamb. In the jamb, most often, they twist the longest screws that pass through the base of the box. You need to be careful, because the doors weigh a lot. This work is best done by two people.

Using a hammer, you need to beat off around the entire perimeter old plaster. If the door frame is in good condition, then you can not change it, just plaster it.

Now you can separate the old door frame from the opening. It happens that the nails are well hidden, in which case you need to insert a nail puller into the gap between the box and the wall. Gently pull the box towards you by moving the nail puller higher and higher. After that, you can dismantle the box. In addition, you need to remove the threshold if you intend to change it.

It happens that the old box sits quite firmly in its place and it is not entirely difficult to dismantle it. In this case, you will need to cut the top crossbar and threshold with a hacksaw. After that, the sawn box will easily move away from the opening.

Before starting the installation of a new door, you should carefully examine the working surface of the opening for the presence of nails, as well as remove various debris.

Experts advise to carefully read the manufacturer's instructions. It will definitely contain tips that will help you install the door correctly. The top layer of stretch film should not be completely removed. installation work. It will protect the door from scratches, dust. Further actions are carried out in this order:

• assemble the box is not difficult
• the finished box must be inserted into the doorway and the edges are fixed vertically and horizontally with wooden wedges. Also don't forget to use the level
• after you have leveled everything, you can begin to fix the box with mounting foam. The threshold can also be fixed with foam
• foam must be applied on a damp surface. This condition accelerates chemical reaction foam and shortens the final fixation time. Drying lasts up to 24 hours
• when the foam dries, you can proceed with the installation of platbands. First you need to fix the top trim, and then the two side ones. Installation is carried out with nails without hats at a distance of 100-150 mm from each other.

Upholstery of wooden doors

The beautifully restored door looks great. Updating the door system with your own hands is quite simple. How to sheathe wooden door? The following materials are suitable for this work:

• laminate
• plastic
• lining
• dermantin.

Today, laminate can imitate stone, wood, ceramic tiles. Due to the huge variety of proposals, you can update the door for any interior. In addition to decorative qualities, the laminate has high heat and sound insulation performance. However, hygroscopicity does not allow it to be used for entrance doors, only for interior doors.

Lining - these are wooden slats with special grooves that facilitate the process of their installation. The thickness of the boards can be from 6 mm to 2 cm. During the manufacturing process, they are treated with antiseptic preparations. This type of decor is best used indoors. Finishing a wooden door with such material will provide you with a high level of sound and heat insulation.

MDF is made from pressed granular chips. The thickness of the slabs for covering the door leaf is 16 mm. MDF is covered with a PVC film, as a result of which it is resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. MDF wood door cladding is a good option for exterior door cladding.

Plastic is different high level resistance to temperature extremes, ultraviolet radiation and humidity. It is easy to attach and easy to care for. The disadvantages of plastic include low strength.

There are several types of dermantin. Experts advise using leatherette made from synthetic fabrics. Such material has a wide list of advantages, including:

• elasticity (stretches easily)
• water resistance
• it does not crack under the influence of low temperatures
• high strength.

This material is suitable for both outdoor and outdoor inside entrance door. A synthetic winterizer, batting or polyurethane foam can serve as a lining for dermantin. The best option is still polyurethane foam. Dermantin is produced today in a fairly wide range of colors, which means that any buyer can choose the appropriate option.

Other types of repair work

During the operation of a wooden door, various breakdowns occur. Some are easily eliminated, while others have to be tinkered with. Consider the most common problems for different types doors. The most common problem with laminated doors is peeling. Most often this happens with low quality products. Do not save, buy doors from trusted suppliers. The only solution to this problem is 100% replacement of the decorative edge. It can be purchased in specialized stores. It is necessary to remove the damaged edge and fix a new one in its place. The new edge is attached in the same way as the old one.

Frequent breakdown for everyone sliding doors is the jumping of the upper rollers from the guide rails. This happens for the following reasons:

• loosening of the bar on which the upper guide rail is installed. For repairs, you just need to re-fix the top bar. You must remove the old fasteners and fix everything again with new dowels and screws.
• loosening of the adjusting mechanism of the carriages. In this case, you will have to re-adjust the door and place the locknuts under the adjusting bolts.

When the door stop breaks, you just need to remove it and replace it with a new one.

Now you know how to repair and how to cover a wooden door. Follow the advice of experts and you will definitely succeed.

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Finishing the doors in your home - a guide for home master

It is no secret that by entering a house or apartment, others judge the respectability of the owners. Today I will tell you how do-it-yourself door finishing is done simply and relatively inexpensively. And not only entrance, but also interior, on which harmony in the interior of the home depends.

First, we will talk in detail about how to finish the front door from the inside, around and partially outside. And for dessert we'll have a finish interior doors, more precisely, those options that are available to an ordinary home master.

We make a worthy entrance

We live in a time when a metal front door is installed in the vast majority of houses, apartments and offices. Wood products are certainly beautiful, but compared to metal, wood clearly loses in this sector. Therefore, further we will focus on the decoration of the metal front door.

Basic tools and materials

Working with a door, no matter if it is an entrance door or an interior door, requires at least a minimum set of tools. Do not be afraid, you will not need any machines or very expensive tools:

• If we are going to equip the space around the front door, then we definitely cannot do without a good electric drill, or better a puncher;
• Ideally, it is advisable to get a screwdriver, but if it is not there, then a set of screwdrivers will do;

• You will also need two hacksaws, for metal and for wood. Although it is better to have a jigsaw or a miter saw;
• Such obligatory things as a tape measure, a level, a square, a knife, a pencil, etc. should be in the set of every home master;
• It’s good if you bought an already insulated structure, otherwise you will also have to take a heater. As far as I have come across, PSB-S25 foam is best suited for a metal door, the thickness of the sheet is now easy to choose according to the thickness of the structure, but usually it is 40 mm;

Some small workshops lay glass wool in the door leaf, and take money as for full-fledged insulation. I categorically do not recommend you to use any kind of cotton wool, in a year it will sit down and there will be no sense from such warming. Styrofoam is the best option, not expensive and angry.

• You will also need mounting foam, silicone sealant and Liquid Nails universal glue. It is better to take this entire set in tubes for a construction pistol, of course, the pistol itself is also necessary;
• Self-tapping screws for wood, for metal, “Quick Installation” dowels, as well as metal or plastic starting profiles and other related fittings, are selected depending on the type of cladding in place.

The subtleties of arranging the door leaf with a solid sheet

Let's start with which door trim is cheaper. We do not take into account such options for finishing the entrance as painting. Everything is simple there - I bought paint, brushes and painted it. From what you can now freely buy on the market, 2 options remain:

1. waterproof ;
2. laminate.

If you do not take the elite sector, then the price of these materials is approximately the same. Difference in other:

• A sheet of waterproof plywood is faster and easier to install;
• Laminate looks much better. There are also laminated MDF door linings, but they will come out more expensive.

Remember the order of work - finishing after installing the front door. That is, the loot should be thoroughly and finally fixed, and the canvas itself should open and close freely. It is also desirable that the locks and the peephole have already been embedded.

First, let's talk about how interior decoration entrance door waterproof plywood. It makes no sense to veneer the outer side with such plywood, in this case it is easier to paint it.

In order not to return to this issue, we will first talk about insulation, because by and large the lining can be changed, and the insulation will remain the same.

The metal door is arranged extremely simply: a welded frame made of a profiled pipe or corner, on the facade of which a solid sheet of metal with a thickness of 2 mm or more is welded. As for the jambs of the front door, they are often welded from a powerful corner with a wing size of 50 mm or more.

All fittings must be removed from the finished structure. That is, a peephole, handles and pads for locks. At the same time, it is not necessary to dismantle the mortise lock itself, it will not interfere with us.

Suppose we are dealing with a frame made of a profiled pipe with a section of 40x40 mm. Then we should buy polystyrene with a thickness of 40 mm. A high-quality construction is not just a frame, there must be stiffening ribs inside, between which we will lay the insulation.

It is most convenient to glue the foam with polyurethane foam, they are perfectly “friendly” and hold everything tight. To do this, apply foam around the perimeter and in the center of the cell.

The foam must be cut a few millimeters more than the cell for which it is intended, because the sheet must enter as tightly as possible. If for some reason there are gaps, this is not a problem, but then they will also need to be filled with foam.

After the internal cavity of the structure is filled with foam and foamed where necessary, all the foam that has come out should be cut off, after which we proceed to the installation of the guide U-shaped profiles.

In this case, metal profiles will be used. These guides are attached along the perimeter of the frame from a profiled pipe to self-tapping screws for metal.

The thickness of these profiles should be 2 - 3 mm more than the thickness of the sheet of waterproof plywood you have chosen. This is due to the fact that in addition to the plywood itself, you need to leave more space for the caps of the self-tapping screws with which the profile will be attached.

But there is one subtlety here. Guides need to be fixed not around the entire perimeter, but only on three sides, on the sides and bottom. The point is to then push our plywood into these profiles, as if into a pencil case. In order to cover the upper edge of the door leaf, we simply cut out the profile and set it aside.

You are unlikely to succeed in buying a sheet of waterproof plywood clearly under the door leaf, so we will cut it with an electric jigsaw to the required dimensions from a standard sheet, this is approximately 2.5x1.5m.

I do not advise you to take ordinary FC plywood, although it is cheaper, it is afraid of moisture and may begin to peel off over time. But if for some reason you make such a decision, then first cover the sheet once with a layer of yacht varnish completely, on both sides. This will strengthen the top layer. After that, the front side will need to be varnished a couple more times.

A sheet of plywood cut to size will need to be carefully tucked into our kind of pencil case. I would not advise you to do this alone. If somewhere the sheet is skewed, then the thin profile may be damaged.

After our sheet of waterproof plywood is tucked in, you will need to take the top edge cut earlier from the U-shaped profile and simply glue it. Do not worry, she will hold on tight, because, in fact, she has nowhere to go. But, if for some reason you want to replace the lining, you can do it without much difficulty.

Waterproof plywood looks pretty decent, but if this kind doesn't suit you, then you can install some kind of thin sheet with decorative trim. Only then either the plywood needs to be taken a little thinner, or the profiles should be a little wider. Alternatively, you can use a 6 mm thick MDF sheet.

Video of finishing with waterproof plywood.

Laminate cladding

Of course, initially a laminate is a floor covering, but as it turned out, finishing the front door from the inside with a laminate looks great and is relatively inexpensive. Plus, no one bothers you with the same material to line the vestibule of the front door and slopes, but I will talk about this in a separate chapter, but for now we are trimming the door leaf itself.

Floor laminate is different quality The higher the grade, the stronger the coating and the better the wear resistance. But in our case, you can take the most common laminate No. 31. It makes no sense to pay more, because this is not a floor, but in appearance they are all the same.

In order to mount laminate planks on a vertical surface, we will need a wooden crate. Such a crate is attached from the inside to the frame and stiffeners of the door leaf with self-tapping screws.

Since we initially agreed that the frame of our metal structure was welded from a 40x40 mm profiled pipe, then we also need wooden bars 30x40 mm or 20x40 mm. I do not advise you to take thinner, they can split during installation.

But first you will need to decide how the laminate will be laid, vertically or horizontally. Depending on this, load-bearing wooden blocks are installed perpendicular to the direction of laying the front planks.

In the vast majority, the laminate is decorated under a tree and the direction of the fibers is usually oriented vertically. But the planks of the floor laminate are short and you vertical mounting you will have to connect several planks to the end. I'm not saying it's harder, it just takes more time.

Horizontal installation is easier, here you will need to cut the strips along the width of the door and then connect them into a continuous sheet. The length of the planks of the floor laminate is usually just over a meter, and the width of a standard door leaf is 90 cm.

It is not so important from which side you will start the installation, the main thing is to leave a gap of about 2 - 3 mm between our type-setting laminated sheet and the edge of the slopes.

As you know, the laminate is connected according to the tenon / groove principle, and so the spike will need to be cut off from the starting bar. The plank itself on a wooden crate is fixed near the cut edge with small self-tapping screws in the bottom. The caps of these screws will then be covered with a decorative overlay.

The groove on the floor laminate is made with a small platform along the base, and in this platform we will fix the bar. Personally, I fix the laminate with a stapler, but if you don't have one, you can use small 20mm studs.

When the starting bar is fixed, the spike of the next bar is inserted into the groove of the previous one and is also attached to the wooden crate from the opposite side in the same way. The cladding ends with fastening along the perimeter of the L-shaped decorative profile.

If you are not satisfied with the appearance front side entrance, then a flat metal sheet is also easy to veneer with a laminate. Only in this case, the planks should not be mounted on a wooden crate, but glued over the entire area.

The typesetting sheet is glued clearly along the edges of the door. After that, a U-shaped or L-shaped plastic profile is glued to the end to match the color of the laminate. Moreover, this profile captures both the laminate itself and the metal door leaf on which it is glued.

We mount slopes and equip the vestibule

As a rule, in city apartments, new metal doors are mounted directly on the outer part of the opening, as a result, the owners get a small vestibule of about 30 cm between the old and new doors. Some masters call this part of the structure a portal.

I do not advise you to dismantle the old door after installing a new one. In quadrature, you will not benefit in any way, but this portal will retain cold air in winter.

Here we will continue to finish this portal of the front door. In this case, plastering will not be the best solution. It's long and messy, plus not everyone can do the job.

Personally, I prefer to finish the vestibule of the front door with the same floor laminate. Firstly, the laminate is suitable for lining the vestibule of both narrow and wide doorways. And secondly, any novice master will be able to cope with this, in total this will take a maximum of 1 day.

Before finishing the opening, it is not necessary to remove either old or new doors from their hinges.

Work begins at the threshold. The threshold of the front door is perhaps the most important sector. Often the gap between the floor of the house and the floor of our future portal is equal to the thickness of the construction jamb, which is about 50 mm.

The floor laminate is a hardy thing, but there must be a solid base from below. Some plant the cover just on mounting foam and small supports. But the foam is not designed for constant mechanical impact, and over time, such thresholds sag and the coating cracks.

To avoid such trouble, you need to install a crate of several wooden planks. I usually put the bars perpendicular to the jamb every 100 - 150 mm. Sometimes the bars need to be trimmed so that they stand in the same plane, but then the laminate will definitely not sag.

It is not worth fixing the bars on the “Quick Installation” dowels, they have nowhere to go anyway. Plus, before the direct installation of the laminate, the space around the bars is filled with mounting foam, it will act as glue.

We mount the threshold and ceiling strips parallel to the jamb. The width of one plank is often not enough, so you will have to cut another plank to length.

The mounting pads along the edges of the laminate must be cut with a jigsaw, as they will interfere. When cutting the mounting platform, the jigsaw is placed at an angle so as not to hook the front surface of the bar.

If the lower gap between the canvas and the jamb of the old door allows, then the laminate strips can be brought under the canvas. In this case, it will be necessary to cut grooves on the sides for the side protrusions of the jamb.

Now you connect the planks into a single plane, blow out the gaps between the wooden bars of the crate with foam and install the laminate. So that the foam does not squeeze our threshold up during expansion, you need to put some kind of load on it. At the last stage, we fasten the aluminum threshold around the edge.

We turn to the arrangement of the overlap of the vestibule. The crate is no longer needed here, since there will be no pressure on the lining. We will glue the laminated type-setting panel onto mounting foam.

But before work, you will need to prepare props. They are made from scraps of laminitis. A double-sided adhesive tape is glued to a small strip, after which this strip is cut with an electric jigsaw into "pyataki" of 2 - 3 cm.

These nickels will play the role of temporary props. Just remove the protective layer from the adhesive tape and stick the support on the door jamb according to the markings. To hold the top panel, it is enough to support it by 3 points on each side.

First, glue 3 supports to the top beam of the outer structure. After that, we insert the upper platform into the opening, blow out the foam, press it to the base and fix the panel with the same supports on the adjacent jamb.

The crate for the side panels is also not needed. Therefore, we install mounting supports along the perimeter of the jamb, put mounting foam inside and, having attached the connected panel to the wall, fix it with mounting supports with reverse side, 5 - 7 props for each jamb.

In order for the foam to take better, the base should be sprinkled with water.

Often, after installing a metal structure, unpleasant cracks filled with foam remain outside along the perimeter of the jamb; naturally, they will need to be repaired.

I use any finishing putty. After dilution, all these cracks are smeared with a spatula, and the excess is wiped off with a damp cloth. Everything takes no more than 10-15 minutes.

Now we just have to seal the seams at the junctions of the planes in the vestibule. For this, a transparent silicone sealant is usually used. After filling the seam, the sealant must be leveled with a rubber spatula or just with a finger, otherwise it will be ugly.

Video of installation of slopes of entrance doors.

Arrangement of interior doors

Finishing interior doors is a creative activity and, in my opinion, not so difficult.

• Firstly, there is no need to finish the thresholds in the room, because they most often do not exist. The only exception is the threshold balcony door. But a one-piece plastic balcony block is usually installed there and there is no talk of any additional finishing at all;
• In addition, the jambs of interior doors, or rather the architraves covering them, often have a rather modest size and it takes many times less time to finish them than on the vestibule of the front door;
• And most importantly, a monolithic or paneled interior door is much lighter than the front door, which means that it is easier to work with it. Especially when you consider that we have a metal structure installed at the entrance.

As a rule, the question of how to decorate interior doors is of interest to people who have started redecorating and not going to invest at this stage serious funds in the complete replacement of all important components of the house. Therefore, I will focus on budget options finishes.

Preparatory processing and staining as one of the simple options

It is better to reanimate the wooden canvases and jambs of the interior door. The fact is that there are still hollow boxes, where the frame is made of wooden slats sheathed at best with plywood or MDF, and most often with fiberboard sheets in general.

It is cheaper to buy a new door here than to finish an old box with expensive materials. These items are considered disposable.

For those who are not in the know, a paneled door is a canvas with decorative square and rectangular inserts or overlays, as a rule, it is a prefabricated structure. We are interested in it from the side that decorating these islands looks much more spectacular than finishing a flat canvas.

We will start from the fact that we are dealing with a wooden canvas, the lining of which is in a deplorable state. Ideally, it is better for a novice master to remove the canvas from the hinges and lay it on some platform to make it easier to work.

Platbands are also desirable to remove. You should be left with only a bare frame of interior doors. After all, you most likely have no experience in this matter, which means that there is a high probability of damage to the wall. And it will be problematic to decorate the line of junction of platbands to the walls.

Of course, there is an option to paste over everything around with masking tape, but it does not give one hundred percent protection. They are used either by professionals who are confident in their abilities, or by housewives who are not able to disassemble the door structure, but want to do everything beautifully.

First of all, you need to remove old paint. Rubbing with emery, even large ones, will take a very long time. Therefore, for these purposes, I use a metal scraper with replaceable blades, plus I heat the surface with a hairdryer.

On the market, this tool is not expensive. And emery is useful for cleaning up problematic, curly elements.

When the paint is removed, the wood must be sanded to a perfectly even state. Because the scraper will leave furrows on the canvas.

After that, all cracks, chips and other serious defects on the tree should be repaired. Previously, a mixture of furniture varnish with small sawdust was used for such purposes, now it is easier to buy a special putty for wood, and the color of the putty can be matched to any type of wood. When the putty dries, this place is polished again.

Now apply the first layer of varnish or paint and leave to dry. After the coating dries, it will need to be lightly sanded again with fine emery. You should not be too zealous, it is enough to spend a couple of times with a sandpaper. This is necessary to remove the pile.

In principle, everything, then you can apply subsequent layers of coating. With continuous staining, it is enough to paint over the canvas 1 more time. And if you varnish your doors, then you may need up to 5 to 7 applications to achieve a good result. Keep in mind that each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has dried.

Patina application

Patination is one of the ways to highlight the relief. If you play with colors, then in this way you can achieve the effect of aging. For example, we will take a pure white painted door and apply patina in fragments.

• Gray-violet is taken as the starting material. acrylic paint and add a little Brown. The composition must be liquid, so you need to slightly dilute it with water;

• We will apply this liquid mixture with a regular brush, along the contour of the panels, into the recesses. In order to highlight decorative inserts and make them more contrasting;

• After the paint dries, we take fine-grained emery and carefully process the painted surface. Thus, the texture will appear and the surface will become more expressive;

• Next, we need to fix the result. For this, matte acrylic varnish in an aerosol can will be used, it is easier to work with it. Spray the varnish evenly, holding the spray can at a distance of 25 - 30 cm over the entire surface;

• The meaning of patination is that a dark background is applied to a light base and after that it appears in some way. In this case, we used emery, but there are options when cleaning is done using special washes. Although without experience, I do not advise taking on such things.

Video on applying patina.

vintage decor

Vintage is considered quite sophisticated and sophisticated style. Its beauty is that the panels can be designed in accordance with the tastes and color preferences of the owners. This will be a truly exclusive option, "sharpened" for a specific person.

• We start everything as usual: remove the canvas, cook, sand and paint. But in this case, we need a slight touch of antiquity. Therefore, after the acrylic paint dries, the surface is cleaned with large emery;
• For decor, we will need to prepare some pictures on paper in advance. Most often, old newspapers, magazines, music books, etc. are used;
• Next, the surface to be treated is covered with a layer of PVA glue and our pictures are randomly glued onto it. Pictures should lie without wrinkles. You can smooth them with a foam roller or with your hands;
• When everything is dry, the canvas will need to be coated a couple of times with clear acrylic or furniture varnish.

As you probably already understood, the whole “trick” is that you can pick up any pictures:

• Newspapers will go under romantic antiquity;
• For a catchy, flashy design, you can use bright flowers;
• In the nursery, decorate the doors in a cartoon style. Moreover, it is not necessary to paste over the entire canvas, you can decorate, only islands of panels.

Conclusion

I am sure that after reading the article you yourself will be able to ennoble your door structures. The main thing is to set a goal and there will be a solution. The photo and video in this article contains materials on the topic of door finishing.

With a metal door, no other option can compete in strength and durability. But her appearance leaves much to be desired. Therefore, to decorate the front door, so that it looks harmonious in the interior, a variety of materials are used. Most often, wood or MDF, laminate are used for sheathing, artificial leather is also popular. Each of these materials has its own specifics and installation features. Next, consider how to sheathe an iron door, and how it is better to do it.

Before finishing the entrance iron door with any material, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary tools. Depending on the product chosen, you may need glue, Moment Universal, a tape measure, a stationery knife and scissors, a marking pencil will do. Pliers, a hammer and a stapler will also come in handy. If plating is planned MDF panels, then you need to take self-tapping screws, a drill and a jigsaw.

To preparatory work include the following:

1. Dismantling the door. It must be removed from the hinges to make it more convenient to work. The canvas is laid on any supports, the easiest way is to put 4 stools.
2. Removal of all accessories. It is necessary to dismantle the handles, peephole, locks, hinges.
3. Surface cleaning. If the upholstery of the iron door is being replaced, the old coating is removed. After that, the surface is thoroughly cleaned from remnants of upholstery and dirt.
4. Measuring the size of the canvas and preparing the upholstery.

After that, you can start upholstery. Previously, metal painting was used, but the paint, in addition to protecting against corrosion, does not perform the function of noise and heat insulation.

Faux leather

The use of leatherette is a method of decorating the entrance canvas, proven by many generations. Sheathing of entrance metal doors with this material has been practiced for a long time. The current skin substitutes outwardly differ little from natural product but are much cheaper.

In addition to the low price, the advantages of this material are:

• resistance to external factors: ultraviolet, high humidity, temperature changes;
• elasticity, ease of installation;
• ease of care and cleaning, artificial leather can be washed with non-aggressive detergents;
• excellent decorative properties: you can choose any color and texture;
• together with a heater, it is possible to make high insulation from noise and the penetration of cold air into the room, while any insulation layer can be made.

The main disadvantage of dermatin is its low resistance to mechanical damage. Pets can easily ruin this upholstery.

Also, for upholstery, you will have to buy an additional lining - foam rubber with a thickness of 1 to 2 cm or more modern version- isolon.

The procedure for sheathing a metal door with artificial leather:

1. Glue is applied to the door leaf. Apply the selected insulation to the surface and smooth it well. Excess material is carefully trimmed.
2. Artificial leather is cut according to the measurement, adding 12 centimeters in width.
3. When upholstering the inside of the door, leatherette is first glued along the upper end, and then, slightly stretching, smooth it to the bottom. Be sure to check if the material has shifted.
4. Next, they glue the door around the perimeter, starting from the hinges and ending with the doors with a lock and a handle. The work below should be the final stage.
5. If the upholstery is made on both sides, then it is necessary to ensure that the leatherette does not overlap, otherwise it will not last long in these places.
6. All excess is cut off, and the necessary holes for fittings are also cut out. They should be slightly smaller than the required size.
7. Mount fasteners and all accessories in place.

Laminate

This material is more associated with flooring, but in fact, it can be successfully used for lining an iron door. The thickness of the slats is 8 mm, while it includes four layers. The bottom one is made of waterproof paper impregnated with resins and paraffin. The next layer is wood fiber material. The upper ball is also paper, it is painted, a drawing is applied to it. The final fourth layer is a polymer film, it performs protective and antistatic functions.

Laminate, as a material for finishing iron entrance doors, has many advantages:

• low cost: although there are more expensive varieties of this material, the laminate is still cheaper than natural wood, although it is not inferior to it in terms of decorative properties and other indicators;
• a wide range of colors and patterns, most often such products are made as an imitation of natural wood of different species;
• resistance to ultraviolet: the laminate does not fade;
• good insulating properties (from noise and to keep warm).
• mechanical strength, resistance to scratches and damage.

In addition, laminate flooring is easy to care for, it can be wiped with soft detergent compositions. The only drawback of this practical material is the impossibility of decorating exterior doors that open directly onto the street. Laminate is contraindicated very coldy and especially high humidity air. Therefore, the material is best used for sheathing steel doors in apartment buildings.

The scheme for installing laminate sheathing looks like this:

1. First, a frame is made of wooden slats, they must match the color of the laminate used. It is fixed on the door leaf with liquid nails.
2. A sheet of the required size is formed from laminate panels by cutting it with a jigsaw.
3. Glue is distributed over the canvas, after which the laminate shield is pressed against the door.
4. In order for the materials to “grab” better, the laminate finish is pressed against the canvas with some kind of load, so it is left until it dries completely.
5. The last stage of sheathing an iron door from the inside is the installation of fittings.

Using MDF for decoration

MDF is obtained by pressing from wood chips. For the best decorative and protective characteristics apply additional coatings. Often MDF is laminated, covered with a thin film. Such material is in great demand because it is durable and resistant. Even more durable is the vandal-resistant plastic coating. In addition to them, MDF is covered with natural wood veneer.

Such material is more capricious in operation and care, but very beautiful. If desired, enamel or paint is applied to the MDF to improve the decorative properties.

MDF boards are distinguished by the following properties:

• it is non-toxic material, does not emit any harmful compounds;
• high strength;
• good insulating properties;
• the possibility of various color and texture solutions;
• ease of care.

Do not forget that MDF does not like moisture, it is impossible to clean such a coating with abrasive products.

MDF panels are mounted on the door leaf as follows:

1. Before sheathing the iron door from the outside, the metal must be cleaned, be sure to disinfect it with some kind of solvent.
2. Then a layer of paint is applied to make the material hold better.
3. Holes for self-tapping screws are made around the entire perimeter in increments of 10 to 15 cm.
4. Glue is distributed over the door leaf, the MDF panel is applied to the door and fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. Holes necessary for fittings are drilled, after which they are installed.

natural wood

Sheathing an iron door with wood is one of the most expensive options. For these purposes, wood species of different trees are used, supplementing it with impregnations and stains.

The main advantages of this finish:

• exceptional decorative properties: a door with such a sheathing looks solid;
• environmental friendliness, since wood is a natural material;
• high strength characteristics;
• good indicators of thermal insulation, as well as sound insulation.

At the same time, in addition to a rather high price, wood paneling there are other disadvantages: this material is quite heavy, wood does not tolerate moisture.

Sheathing a metal door with wood is no different from installing a MDF.

You can sheathe an old iron door with the most different materials. They make this element of the room more attractive in appearance and improve the insulating characteristics.

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