Find the lining of the ceiling with a wooden clapboard. We sheathe the ceiling with clapboard: the choice of material and the procedure for working

20.06.2020

The ceilings from the lining look simply gorgeous, in modern style and emphasize the individual design of the room. The characteristic stripes that form as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious, and the ceilings are perfectly even.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with it and in fact everyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of frame for the ceiling

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate the uneven and ugly surface from your future new ceilings. Also, the frame will allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the whole structure with good strength.

Useful information:

The lining on the ceiling is sewn on top of the frame, so in any case you will need a crate, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is made much easier than the frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both and simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and on the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of mounting the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Clapboard - panel

Imitates an ordinary wooden beam and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology contributes to better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various fumes. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration, it is used more often than Lining-Calm, since eurolining is much cheaper in cost.

Clapboard - Calm

The material has a perfectly smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front of the board. It is used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Clapboard - American

It imitates laying boards with an overlap, as a result of which the junction between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used in outdoor decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with clapboard, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your clapboard ceilings are impeccable.

Ordinary hammer.
Screwdriver, or drill with a chipper.
and building area.
Accurate roulette.
Jigsaw or hacksaw.
Scissors for metal, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for the ceilings from the lining must be selected according to the calculations made earlier. Beam for wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the beam, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will also hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 bars.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the bars, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into the concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here the family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of components of the frame will increase much and you will need additionally:

Guide profile - UD.
The profile underlying the frame is CD.
Mounts "Crab" and "P" - shaped mounts.
Self-tapping screws for metal.

To mount the lining itself on the frame, you can use construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then ordinary nails can be used.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall by 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using a water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will verify the horizontal position of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary in advance and to increase fire safety.

Wooden bars are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the bars should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only refined, but also improved, for example: then in this case the step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” mineral wool or other heat and sound insulating material are also 60 centimeters wide. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use the water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls from different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. we clearly align the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the bars. Next, with a step of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the bars, checking our work with the help of a level at different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to put wooden linings, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining along it.

If you are not sure about the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional transverse bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. It can be strengthened and only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to install all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That's the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, the metal profile for creating various kinds of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. So I don't really want to repeat myself.

Lining made of wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards must be prepared and cut to size identical to the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lining lamella for a specific place.

Important! If you plan to mount the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, then you need to use doboy so that the hammer does not damage the lock and the front of the board.

When your lining ceiling is in the process of being set, it is necessary to mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. After the ceiling is ready, it will be more difficult to cut holes, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly knocking, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along the entire length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, you should not put the lining on the glue, since you will already have a durable and strong construction.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The main difference will only be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent board must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now ceiling plinths are often made, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before sheathing the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finish. As a result, the overall level of the ceiling will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more closely to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the junctions.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to fix a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The plinth is usually mounted with liquid nails. There are also special clips.

Clapboard ceiling decoration is both a beautiful, practical and functional solution for any room. Consider the advantages and disadvantages, the secrets of choice and phased technology do-it-yourself wooden lining installation.

The content of the article:

The modern range of facing materials for the ceiling is very extensive and diverse. Along with plastic panels and plasterboard sheets, the most relevant cladding options can be safely attributed to a profiled board made of natural wood. It is not difficult to explain the popularity of clapboard ceiling decoration: it is absolutely environmentally friendly, beautiful and easy to install and maintain.

Advantages and disadvantages of lining the ceiling with clapboard

Ceiling cladding with natural wood panels is rightfully considered a classic of the building genre. Compared to competitive finishing materials lining has many undeniable advantages:

Excellent performance. The wood finish is strong, reliable and durable. With proper pre-installation preparation and correct subsequent care, it will last at least 12-15 years.
Ecological cleanliness. Unlike synthetic "relatives", lining made of natural lining is not only harmless, but also useful for the inhabitants of the home. Due to its hygroscopic properties, wood is able to purify the air and normalize the level of humidity in the room.
Ease of installation. A distinctive feature of the finishing profiled board is the presence of special grooves and ridges. Thanks to these structural elements, ceiling cladding is carried out easily and quickly, even without the involvement of assistants.
Practicality and functionality. Sheathing the ceiling base with clapboard allows you to mask minor flaws and flaws made during construction or repair. In addition, behind the coating of decorative panels, you can hide electrical wiring, pipes, ventilation ducts, sound or heat insulating layer.
Aesthetic appearance. The wooden lining ceiling looks solid, stylish and spectacular, and, importantly, it is compatible with almost any room design.
Construction budget savings. Using a natural board for ceiling cladding, you can save a lot on the purchase of starting and finishing finishing materials - plaster, putty, paint, wallpaper, etc.

The disadvantages of such a finish include the following:

Competent lining of the ceiling with clapboard implies the mandatory construction of a frame crate. Constructions of this type noticeably "steal" the height of the living space.
The next disadvantage of wooden cladding is the low level of fire safety. To protect the material from the destructive and dangerous effects of fire, it is carefully treated with protective flame retardants before installation work.
It should be borne in mind that natural lining, valued for its strength and durability, may slightly change geometric parameters and deform due to incorrect operation or careless maintenance.

Criteria for choosing lining for finishing the ceiling

Sheathing wooden board is presented on the construction market in a huge assortment. To determine the choice of this material, you should have a clear idea of its varieties and properties. The main criteria by which modern lining is distinguished are the type of wood used, its grade and section profile.

The type of wood when choosing lining for the ceiling

Traditionally, softwood or hardwood is used for the manufacture of lining:

Softwood. This category includes pine, spruce, fir, larch and cedar. Products from the listed raw materials are practical, durable and resistant to moisture and fungi, so they can be used for finishing ceilings in both residential and utility rooms and utility rooms. The only thing is that such lining is not recommended for the interior lining of saunas and baths, since with a sharp increase in temperature, fragrant coniferous wood releases an abundant amount of resinous substances that can provoke spontaneous combustion of the material.
Hardwood. This category includes oak, beech, ash, aspen, alder and linden. Such wood lends itself perfectly to mechanical processing, tinting and artificial aging techniques. Due to its high decorativeness, it is suitable for covering ceilings in rooms for various purposes - from terraces and balconies to bedrooms and children's rooms. A distinctive property of hardwood is resistance to temperature fluctuations and dampness. That is why lining ceilings of this type are often equipped in rooms with high and variable humidity.

Classes of lining for finishing the ceiling

A separate topic is the range of lining. Depending on the quality of the source wood, all molded lumber is divided into several classes:

Class "A". Lumber marked with this marking is characterized by the presence of small single knots and small non-through cracks. It is worth noting that, according to established standards, the listed flaws are allowed only in invisible zones and areas ( back side and the end of the board).

Class "B". The lining, belonging to this class, has noticeable roughness and not smooth, shallow longitudinal grooves and resin bags. On the front surface of such products, you can find traces of mechanical stress - chips, scratches, notches and burrs.

Class "C". The lumber of the last class includes edged boards with noticeable mechanical damage and pronounced wood defects - extensive knots, short through cracks, spots of a contrasting shade and open resin pockets.

Note! For finishing cladding of ceilings in residential premises, experts recommend using the lining of the first two classes. As for materials marked "B" and "C", it is better to use them to create an intermediate frame or a rough binder.

Tree profile when choosing lining for ceiling decoration

Depending on the type of profile connection, all wooden lining intended for finishing ceilings and other planes in residential premises is divided into ordinary and "euro". The first is cheaper than the second, but at the same time it is significantly inferior to it in terms of configuration and processing quality:

It differs from the traditional European-style lining correct geometry, as well as a more complex and deep tongue-and-groove connection that prevents the formation of gaps between adjacent boards even with significant temperature and humidity shifts.
An important difference between European and classical lining is in terms of humidity. In the production process, the first one undergoes mandatory drying in automated chambers, due to which the wood acquires the necessary strength and plasticity.
The next argument in favor of eurolining is the presence of special ventilation ducts, acting as air ducts and responsible for the full outflow of accumulating condensate.

Do-it-yourself technology for mounting lining on the ceiling

Sheathing the ceiling with a wooden board is a task feasible for any interested craftsman. Thanks to convenient locking connections, the assembly of the cladding is quick and extremely simple. Let's take a closer look at how to fix the lining to the ceiling so that the finish is beautiful and durable.

Preparatory work before finishing the ceiling with clapboard

At the first stage of work, a number of certain preparatory measures should be performed:

To begin with, the old sheathing and finishing materials are removed from the base ceiling. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Small cracks found in the floor slab are sealed with a putty mixture, deep cracks are embroidered with a grinder and concreted with a cement-sand mortar.
To prevent biodestruction of wooden finishes, the prepared base must be covered with a deep penetration antiseptic composition. The primer of the ceiling is carried out in two stages using a fleecy roller equipped with a telescopic rod. The recommended time interval between the first and second application of the protective emulsion is 2-3 hours.
At the same stage of work, the lining purchased for finishing the ceiling is released from the packaging wrapper, sorted and laid out in one layer on a flat horizontal surface in the room being installed. Such a simple procedure will help prevent cracking, warping and shrinkage of the purchased material.

Marking the surface for mounting lining on the ceiling

At this stage of work, it is necessary to prepare for the subsequent arrangement of the frame system and correctly mark the ceiling surface. The main purpose of the markup is to determine the horizontal, indicating the plane of the wood finish, and drawing parallel lines on all walls around the perimeter of the room.

It is most convenient to mark the ceiling with a laser tool, however, as an alternative, it is acceptable to use a conventional building level. With the help of the latter, the lowest point of the base base is determined and, starting from it, marks are made on the walls around the perimeter of the room.

To apply a closed contour, use a marker or a coloring paint cord. It is important that the laid line converges at a single point, and any displacements indicate errors in the marking process.

The height of the interceiling space should not only mask the unevenness and errors of the floor slab, but also allow the free installation of all communications, insulating materials and built-in lighting devices. As a rule, when finishing with clapboard, the ceiling is lowered by no more than 7-10 cm.

Arrangement of a frame for a ceiling from a lining

At the end of the marking work, they begin the construction of the supporting frame. For the manufacture of battens, a metal profile or planed beams with a section of 50x50 mm are used. You can also use the substandard lining found during sorting. The main thing to remember is that all wooden elements frame structure subject to mandatory antiseptic.

Let us consider in more detail the rules for arranging a frame for a ceiling from a lining:

The crate is installed, according to the markup, in the direction perpendicular to the position of the future cladding. With longitudinal fastening of the lining, the frame planks are fixed across the room, with transverse fastening of wooden sheathing, the frame is mounted along the room.
The prepared elements of the supporting structure are fixed in the next order: first, the edging rails are attached, then the intermediate ones. To fix the details of the crate, dowels and screws are used.
The optimal distance between adjacent rows of the frame system is 30-40 cm. To avoid the possibility of sagging of the facing fabric, the structure is additionally strengthened with the help of transverse jumpers or suspensions.
During the construction process, the crate is periodically checked for flatness. If necessary, all errors are corrected with the help of placed bars or pegs of appropriate sizes.

Note! Before installing the lining in the subceiling space, all cables, wiring, the bases of built-in lamps, as well as heat and sound insulating materials, are carefully laid.

Mounting lining on the ceiling

Next, proceed to the direct sheathing of the frame structure. In order to quickly and reliably form a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, the panels are fastened with the help of hidden metal clamps. Such fixing elements are both invisible and reliable: on the one hand, they are attached to the underside of the finishing board, on the other - to the crate.

The installation of wooden panels starts from one of the corners of the room, while technological gaps (up to 10 mm) must be left between the walls and the extreme strips for possible thermal expansion of the material and unhindered ventilation in the ceiling niche.
The first bar is attached on both sides to the frame bars with the help of furniture stapler. The second board is inserted at a slight angle into the grooves of the first, inserted all the way and fixed in places where the crate lies with the help of clamps.
Fastening of subsequent panels is carried out similarly to the first two. For reliability, each installed bar is gently tapped along the entire length with a mallet.
During the set of a wooden ceiling, through holes of the desired configuration are cut out in the necessary places to output the supply wires. To trim the lining, use an electric jigsaw or a hand saw.
Upon completion of the facing work, all gaps between wooden paneling and walls are sealed with additional elements right size. Decorative clips or small furniture nails are used as fasteners.
If desired, the wagon trim is coated with protective compounds based on natural oils or beeswax. Such impregnations emphasize natural beauty wood, give it a soft matte finish and protect against mold and woodworms.

Getting Started installation work, it is necessary to de-energize the room to be lined by turning off circuit breakers in the electrical room.

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard - look at the video:

Having studied step by step technology mounting the lining on the ceiling and competently organizing the finishing process, even a novice master will be able to turn a scattering of wooden planks into a beautiful and reliable cladding.

Today, such a finishing method as lining the ceiling with clapboard has become widespread. With the help of aesthetic, decorative and beautiful material it will be easy to transform the space, refresh the room.

What is a lining

Lining for ceiling sheathing is represented by thin boards with a special type of connection, when a protrusion of another element is inserted into the groove of one plank.

The variety of types and qualities of the material makes it suitable for installation in rooms with different operating conditions, and it is easy to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands. Panels are made from:

solid wood;
MDF boards;
plastic.

For example, for a bathroom or kitchen, it is preferable to install plastic that is resistant to moisture, is not afraid of fungus, and is easy to wash. wooden slabs or MDF is better to use in living rooms.

Types of construction lining

Wooden lining - natural material(from deciduous or coniferous species), the main quality criteria of which are:

strength;
hardness;
class;
fire resistance.

Wooden lamellas are divided into several classes:

extra class or premium. Such boards are characterized by ideal smoothness and the absence of any defects. When finishing ceilings with premium eurolining, you don’t have to adjust the parts to each other;
class A. There may be minor defects:

- slight roughness in some areas;

- small inclusions of resin on the surface;

- small non-through cracks;

B-class. This type is characterized by the presence of a significant number of defects. End pieces may have small chips. It is better to sheathe rooms with these panels country cottage, balcony or loggia;
Class C- the lowest grade and cheapest category of material. In this case, only rotten boards are prohibited. Ceiling sheathing with clapboard of class C is recommended for basements, attics or utility rooms.

Its benefits include:

no need to carefully prepare the ceiling space for decoration;
ease of installation will allow you to hem the ceilings with MDF panels with your own hands;
ease of care;
a variety of options for MDF lamellas allows you to choose suitable color or texture that organically fit into the overall design and style of the room.

MDF lining is made on the basis of the method of pressing wood fiber and further imparting to the material the right sizes and forms.

The disadvantages include low performance characteristics, since over time the surface of such panels begins to crack, acquires a dark shade.

This is no less popular material than natural wood or chipboard. The production of this type of lamellas is based on the extrusion method, in which a viscous PVC mass is squeezed out through special holes.

from a wooden beam. To do this, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room, stepping back 10-15 cm from the wall surface. Fix them with nails or self-tapping screws every 60 cm.

Important! The fastening of the timber should be carried out perpendicular to the location of the lamellas.

The distance between the bars is 60-100 cm if a wooden lining is installed, and 40-60 cm when it is planned to install plastic panels.

The bottom edges of each beam should be parallel to the floor and be on the same level with other beams. Pulling a nylon thread along the underside of the transverse slats, the remaining bars are attached. To strengthen the structure, jumpers are mounted from a bar of the same size;

from a metal profile. If such a frame is installed, then first the UD profile is attached to the dowels along the horizontal line. On opposite sides, the CD profile is fixed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall surface in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the CD profiles will be perpendicular to the UD profile strips and the lining. The profile is fixed to the ceiling on U-shaped suspensions with a distance of 40-60 cm.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame by any of the methods, wires are brought to the locations of the lighting fixtures.

Installation of lining

The first panel is fixed by pressing firmly against the wall. Next, the crest of the next lamella is inserted into the groove of the previous one and reinforced with fasteners at the points of contact between the lining and the frame.

On a note! Holes for lamps are cut out in the process of lining the ceiling with clapboard. Otherwise, damage may remain on it that is difficult to disguise.

Final stage

After making the ceilings from the lining, it is necessary to adjust the lamellas in length and cut down the corner joints. The gaps at the junction of the walls and ceiling are masked with skirting boards. Decorative plugs should match the interior of the room in color, so it is recommended to buy them together with the panels.

This method of decoration is often used in the Provence style. Emphasizing its direction, the lining looks especially original and impressive. Designers advise applying a layer of special paint to the clapboard-trimmed ceilings, giving them the effect of aging.

Gray larch panels are well emphasized, and a colorless varnish will give the coating extra shine and beauty.

If you first study the technology, how to properly sheathe the ceilings with clapboard, then installation will not take you much time and effort. As a result of the work, you will get an original and beautiful ceiling.

Clapboard ceiling decoration video

How and how to sheathe the ceiling, so that it is not only beautiful, but also practical, and, if possible, environmentally friendly, is of interest to many. From the variety of finishes, experts distinguish clapboard sheathing, a material that is one of the most common ways to finish the ceiling.

Peculiarities

Interesting origin of the name building material. Previously, transport wagons were sheathed wooden slats, which then began to be used in interior decoration. So there was a generalized name for a wooden material.

Its main feature is naturalness. The room, in which the ceiling is finished with wooden clapboard, breathes. A natural microclimate is formed in it due to such a property of wood as absorbing moisture when it is in excess and releasing it when it is deficient.

Distinctive features are:

naturalness and naturalness;
durability and reliability in use;
heat and sound insulation;
security;
resistance to decay processes;
ease of care;
ease of installation;
originality of appearance;
complete safety for health;
a great opportunity to hide communications.

Wooden lining is the ancestor of such products as metal and plastic lining. A feature of all types is its shape and installation. A classic of the genre - wood paneling is suitable for finishing various surfaces, including the ceiling. The existing drawback - weak moisture and heat resistance is easily eliminated today. The necessary impregnations will easily cope with this problem.

The plastic version of the ceiling sheathing is primarily budgetary. Produced by seamless technology, attractive and graceful. However, it has a number of serious drawbacks. Chief among them is its fragility. Over time, it loses its snowy whiteness, fades and turns yellow. Subjected to mechanical stress and temperature reactions.

Lining, made of sheet steel and aluminum, is more often used in the decoration of the facade of a house, but it can also be used in utility, courtyard buildings. Aluminum product is almost forever, which can not be said about the analogue. Inexpensive material - short-lived. Minor damage to the protective layer leads to an irreversible process - damage to thin metal.

Due to the many types of lining, it is suitable for finishing ceilings in rooms with different operating requirements and aesthetic requirements.

How to choose material?

There are many manufacturers of this material, but the quality of the products sometimes wants to leave the best. In order not to make a mistake in the acquisition, you should carefully examine it at the time of purchase. Pay attention to every little thing.

Packaging - you should be alerted if the lining is sold packed in a film. This fact indicates the low quality of the goods, since the seller is not allowed to tear the film and pull out the panel for inspection. Also foil-covered panels are exposed to humidity due to lack of ventilation. This packaging negatively affects the quality of even first-class materials.

If possible, scrupulously check the plate itself. A slight curvature jeopardizes the result of the work performed. It is better to refuse such a product. First, there will be difficulties during installation. Secondly, even after mounting it, there is no guarantee that it will last a long time.

If visual inspection is beyond doubt, inspect the surface. Shear waves may appear on the board. The most thorough inspection is necessary for docking structures (grooves and ridges). In no case should they contain chips or cracks.

It is desirable to have a clip for inspection that can detect waves. If any are found, the kleimer cannot be installed as needed. Please note that the assembly is easy when trying to connect the individual panels.

Be sure to use the device, if one is available in the store, to measure the humidity of the lining. Take the time to examine your purchase - this will serve as a guarantee of the final result.

When choosing a finishing material, you need to have an idea of its specification. Wooden lining is divided into four quality categories. They have significant differences. It is impossible to choose a quality material without paying attention to them.

Class A products fully suitable for ceiling cladding. Errors are possible here, such as resin stains (no more than two), non-through cracks (one or two), one knot is allowed.
Class "B"- relatively good material. Its use in residential areas is undesirable due to aesthetic characteristics. This is an increased number of blind cracks, knots and resin stains.
Class "C" products is of low quality. It is used for facing only outbuildings. In this group, the criteria are completely different - falling knots, through cracks, resin pockets. However, this material is not a complete marriage.
Extra class products characterized by the complete absence of any defects. it perfect option for finishing ceilings.

This classification is a travel star when choosing a wooden lining. The type of wood affects the performance of the manufactured product.

Design

The white ceiling in combination with various materials looks unusual and original. Clapboard on the ceiling modern design popular and in demand, as the trend towards economical materials contributes to the creation of a unique style. And lining is just such a product, characterized by a natural texture, adequate cost and ease of installation.

To create it, use various breeds trees:

The originality of pine products in soft brown shades attracts customers and at an affordable price.
Lining made of spruce is an interesting budget material. The final step is painting the surface, since the structure of the tree is not too pronounced.
The main advantages of larch products are durability, rich shade and expressiveness of wood texture. This breed tolerates moisture well.
Linden, plastic in origin, has attractive golden hues.

Coniferous types of lining are durable, practical, resistant to moisture. Undesirable in rooms with a constantly high temperature. Since the emitted tarry substances can lead to fire. Deciduous species are processed and tinted.

White color, which is the basis in any style, is perfectly combined with other colors, is able to visually expand the space. Preference is given to oil and acrylic paints. By treating the surface with a solution that protects against moisture and insects, you can extend its shelf life.

Eurolining creates an elegant picture with the help of various combinations of diagonal stripes.

To add variety to the interior of the room, the created individual elements on the ceiling allow - around the chandelier, for example. An interesting note in the interior will be a ceiling made of plastic lining, different in texture and applied pattern. With the help of panels of contrasting colors, zoning of the room is possible.

Designer finds using this material will allow the owner to give a unique and individual character to his home.

narrow and long panels expand the space;
designs from lines harmoniously merge into any style;
a lattice structure with crossed slats creates the image of a ceiling made of beams;
lining looks great with plates of different widths made of plastic;

laying MDF panels in different directions, they achieve an excellent imitation of natural wood;
luxury in decoration is achieved by applying White color, diluted with gold or silver tone;
fashionable interiors prefer rack style;
the combination of wooden and painted ceilings looks spectacular.

There is an opinion about the suitability of such ceilings only on balconies or in country houses. It is erroneous.

In the living room, it is appropriate to use this material in the design of the ceiling. Lacquered strips can transform the surface. It is possible to design the image of beam ceilings as in alpine chalets or hunting lodges. This effect can be achieved by contrasting the color of the finishing elements.

It should be remembered: to get a solid image, you need to decorate the entire interior in the same style.. The painted lining will create a cozy atmosphere for relaxing in the popular Provence style, so necessary in the bedroom. A barely noticeable element of antiquity and unsurpassed charm will be acquired by a combination of forged furniture and lacquered details of the coating.

A more careful choice of such a product will avoid the negative impact on people suffering from allergic reactions to the emitted essential compounds. An ideal room with a lining ceiling would be a kitchen.

An excellent option would also be the design in the style indicated above. Here it is possible to use beige, white, blue tones for the color of the panels. The interior of the situation in the intended image will turn out beautiful. A room with stylish appliances and steel surfaces of household items will look advantageous.

A natural type ceiling would be appropriate in a kitchen with a decor made of natural stone or its imitation. The use of panels painted in a color that matches other objects is suitable for decorating a corridor. Don't lose sight of the extra details and overall look of the interior.

The nursery and the office are designed by analogy. In the nursery, a careful and scrupulous approach to such a coating is also needed. The only room in the house where it is not recommended to install a lining ceiling can be a bathroom.. Excessive moisture may damage the coating.

Calculation

Calculating the required amount of this material for finishing the ceiling is easy, but painstaking. And the calculation must be done carefully so that the end result does not bring grief in the form of additional costs (time, money, nerves). It is advisable to purchase goods with some margin. You need to start with a well-defined plan for the direction of fastening the elements. Record all this on the drawing.

With the help of these records, it is easier to carry out the calculation of the consumable product. The ceiling area is calculated elementarily: the width is multiplied by the dyne (as an example - ab - 3x4 = 12). For an accurate calculation, you need to know the dimensions of the selected sheathing material. These data must be indicated on the packaging of the material and comply with state standards. By dividing the ceiling area by the area of one board, you will find out how many panels you need.

Online calculator programs will come to the rescue. You only need to know the basic parameters of the panel - width, length, height and thickness. Based on practice, it is noticed that the results of two similar measurements do not have significant differences. The accuracy of measurements will save the budget allocated for repairs, protect against unnecessary trimming. However, do not forget about the rule of rounding up the fractional value and adding 15% of the strategic reserve of material to it.

You can immediately calculate the cost of the material. When buying, you need to know the parameters of the lining and the required quantity. And do not forget about the factors that affect the cost: the price depends on the size of the lining, with an accurate measurement of which it will be possible to purchase the necessary cash. Now it's time to start the installation work.

Mounting

To perform any work, you need to carefully prepare. No special skills are required, there would be a desire. But to assemble a tool, without which nothing will work, you need. You will need several types of building level. No roulette will have to work, as they say, by eye, which is absolutely unacceptable. You need a hammer, a hacksaw, a jigsaw and a screwdriver.

In the event that the crate is made of a metal profile, it is better to use scissors. When installing the skin, use a drill with a percussion mechanism or a puncher with a concrete ceiling. Minimum Diameter drill - at least 6-7 mm. In terms of time, the sheathing will take a little time if the correct calculation and clear markings are made. There are two types of caracas for mounting panels - wooden and metal. The first option is considered more optimal. It's cheaper and easier to work with.

Wooden crate will require:

beam 4x4 cm, respectively, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling;
brackets;
wooden or plastic wedges;
self-tapping screws.

For metal frame needed:

metallic profile;
suspension;
fasteners;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

If necessary, the lining should be dried before installation. Clean the ceiling itself from dirt, dust and old plaster. Find key cue points using a level. The first will be the lowest point of the ceiling, which is transferred to all walls and connected along the perimeter with one line. These are the reference points for the crate bars.

A small nuance: in places where the guides did not fit to the ceiling, use wedges.

Ceiling surface cladding is a construction event, to which high requirements are initially imposed. This is due to the characteristics of the materials used and the fact that in most cases, a homeowner who decides to make the ceiling lining on his own will need experience and the availability of specialized tools. Regardless of the type of materials used, the ceiling cladding technology is generally similar and involves the arrangement of the frame and its subsequent cladding. However, the materials used in the process of finishing ceilings are different, and their choice is determined by the characteristics of a particular method of finishing. Despite the fact that carrying out finishing activities using most methods requires certain skills of a specialist in this field, there are those that are available to everyone, including beginners, and the most common of them is clapboard ceiling lining. It is widely used on construction sites, being the material of choice in the process of carrying out both external and internal finishing works. The World Wide Web offers a lot of information on this topic, however, this article, being the most complete and structured, will most effectively answer the question: “How to sheathe a clapboard ceiling?”.

Clapboard ceiling: the main types of material

Despite the fact that the construction market provides the consumer with the freedom to choose among a variety of inexpensive polymer materials for interior decoration, which have won the trust of developers, today there are many true connoisseurs of natural wood. The commitment of craftsmen to the use of this material is due to its aesthetic characteristics, environmental safety and ease of use, and there are legends about the unique woody aroma in a room where the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, in the literal sense of the word. In addition, the thermal insulation characteristics of wood make it possible to create a balanced microclimatic environment in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard.

Wooden lining: material specifics

The lining is a facing board, the specificity of which lies in the tongue-and-groove fixation system. In the last century, it was used only for lining wagons, for which it got its name, later becoming a material widely used for both exterior and interior decoration. In the postwar years, being one of the most budget options, lining was the only available finishing material. Over the past decades, lining not only has not lost its former popularity, but has also established itself as a reliable facing material. Subsequently, along with the advent of new technologies for the manufacture of lining, the scope of its application has expanded significantly.

The production of lining is a multi-stage process, including the manufacture edged board with its subsequent industrial drying, application of tongue-and-groove joints, careful grinding of material surfaces and, finally, sorting of finished products. These features of production determine the advantages of the material, such as the possibility of obtaining strong connection panels without gaps, attractive appearance, and therefore, the material does not need additional processing, and its decorative characteristics are much higher than operational ones.

There are various classifications of natural lining, suggesting the division of the lining in accordance with a variety of features. Among them are the quality of the finished product, the type of wood used for the production of lining, and the scope of its use, and other equally relevant parameters. Let us consider in more detail the most common classifications.

Ceiling from lining photo

For the manufacture of lining, the following types of wood are used:

Noble wood species, among which oak and ash deserve special attention;
Soft breeds - among them alder and linden;
Universal species - spruce and pine (in this case, the thickness of the profile is 12.0 x 25.0 mm, width - 90.0 x 150.0 mm and length up to 6 m).

In accordance with the scope of use, several types of lining are also distinguished:

"Eurolining" - a type of lining, more often exported to European countries and characterized by a smooth front surface and the presence of a deep tongue-and-groove system;
"American" - a kind of lining, using which you can imitate overlapping, popular in America;
"Panel lining" - a type of material, the appearance of which has obvious similarities with a bar;
"Block House" - a profile that has external similarities with a rounded beam.

Another classification of wood panels involves their separation depending on quality:

"Extra" - panels included in this category are characterized by high quality, the absence of dark spots and knots, which leads to the highest cost of the material;
Category "A" - small knots can be found on the surface of the panels included in this group, which significantly affects the price of this material and makes it affordable for most buyers;
Category "B" - panels of medium quality, the most suitable for finishing work in the country, balcony or recreation center;
Category "C" - low-grade panels, the surface of which is characterized by a large number of dark spots and knots.

Important! Among the variety of wooden panels, experts recommend giving preference to products made from cedar, aspen or linden. However, for ceiling sheathing, you can use not only wooden, but also plastic panels.

Plastic panels: a brief description

The traditional classification of plastic panels involves their division into seamless panels and panels with a marked seam, as a result of which the surface of the ceiling is characterized by an appearance similar to a wooden covering.

Important! Unlike wooden lining, plastic panels do not need additional processing, which must be carried out before or after finishing the ceiling with lining. This is due to the initial practicality of plastic lining and the variety of its colors, allowing you to pick up a plastic lining that imitates a wooden surface.

Seamless plastic lining characterized by the presence of a hidden tongue-and-groove system, which makes it possible to make the seams almost invisible after the installation of the ceiling covering. Also, in the process of producing seamless lining, the manufacturer focuses on reducing the number of joints between the panels, increasing their width, which is five times the width of traditional panels;
Plastic lining with a dedicated seam has external similarities with wooden lining, differing from it in that, unlike the latter, it does not need additional processing.

Important! Giving preference to plastic lining, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the main features of PVC panels:

Although plastic panels are designed to hide existing unevenness in the finished surface, and therefore, they bend easily, excessive stress constantly acting on the panel can lead to cracks. A damaged panel is not suitable for restoration;

Plastic panels are moisture resistant, however, ultraviolet radiation, constantly affecting the material, can cause it to fade.

MDF panels: specifics of use

There is another type of lining - MDF panels, which are lining made from fiberboard. The production of this variety is based on the method of pressing wood fiber, followed by giving the material the required shape and installing the tongue-and-groove system. If the size and shape of MDF panels are generally standard, then the color scheme has practically no restrictions. The principle of surface sheathing using this material is similar to that when using wooden lining. Due to the fact that one of the disadvantages of MDF panels is low moisture resistance, and constant exposure to moisture can cause them to deform and collapse, lining of this type can only be used in rooms characterized by a low level of humidity, and is not suitable for arranging false ceilings in bathroom or kitchen.

Wooden lining is a universal material, combined with almost any finishing materials that are relevant today. As for finishing country houses, saunas and baths, in this case, lining is the material of choice for finishing events. The owners of apartments also have wooden lining in good standing, it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, as well as for partial or complete finishing of the kitchen or living room.
If you are seriously thinking about using wood when decorating a room and, in particular, a ceiling, check out this article, which will discuss how to mount the lining on the ceiling so that it is not only reliable, but also stylish and harmonious;
The ceiling, sheathed with wooden clapboard, should organically fit into a holistic interior concept, combining favorably not only with the floor and furniture, but also with home textiles. This advice will be especially relevant if you plan to decorate the interior in a classic or rustic style;
So that the surface of the ceiling sheathed with clapboard is not monotonous, it is recommended to install the rails in different directions, which will help create a certain pattern on the ceiling. To increase the decorative effect created, you can use slats or decorative beams of a different color;
Suspended ceiling - ideal for the living room. For its installation, you can use not only a long board, but also ready-made modules. Panels used for mounting false ceiling in the living room, can be decorated with carvings, paintings or stained-glass windows - thanks to the use modern technologies, manufacturers offer a lot of options.

What to do if you have purchased a wooden lining?

After you have purchased a wooden lining, experts do not recommend immediately proceeding with the installation of the ceiling. In this connection, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the following tips according to the preservation of the original quality of the material:

First of all, it is necessary to release the purchased lining from the packaging;
Next, the panels are carefully laid out on a flat surface, it is better if they are wooden boards;
Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, wait for the time required for the lining to dry completely. At the same time, it is important to know that the lining must be dried as much as possible, which will positively affect their quality. Drying of the panels must be carried out in the room where the installation is planned.

Important! Experts do not recommend rushing to install the lining on the ceiling and let it dry completely. The most optimal time for complete drying of the lining is considered to be a time period of three months, however, if you cannot wait too long, the time can be reduced to several weeks.

Importance this council should not be underestimated, since ideally the humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out and the humidity of the panels should match. Otherwise, non-compliance with these recommendations may lead to deformation of the panels. In this sense, the practicality of MDF panels and plastic panels is much higher, since they do not need pre-drying. To carry out the installation of plastic lining on the ceiling, it is enough to leave it for two or three days in a heated room, where work will be carried out and boldly proceed with the installation activities.

Calculation of the amount of material. Required Tools

The calculation of the required amount of material is a simple but rather laborious undertaking, and its implementation must be carried out at the proper level. Experts advise purchasing material with a certain margin so that there are no unpleasant surprises in the process of work.
First of all, decide on the direction of fastening of the elements, and then display this on the drawing. He will become yours faithful assistant with the correct determination and calculation of the required amount of material;
If the area of your room is calculated according to the scheme 2.5 x 3.3 m, purchase a material 3 m long and fasten in a width of 2.5 m, trimming the material by 50 cm, which will go to waste. If you choose a different placement, you will have to grind part of the element, which will be noticeable after the installation is completed;
In the process of considering the width of the configuration, it is important to remember the groove that runs along the edge of each part.

In order to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

Drill, screwdriver and perforator;
Hacksaw, as well as scissors for metal;
A hammer;
Roulette;
Building corner and building level;

To make a wooden frame, prepare a beam, the thickness of which is calculated based on the features of the selected design, but its cross section should not be less than 20 mm. In the case of installing additional insulation, its thickness must be added to the thickness of the timber.

Important! In the case of installing additional insulation, the material should also be taken with a margin. During the installation process, the insulation should not be pressed excessively - its fastening should be carried out freely, without additional clamping, since in the case of rigid fastening, the insulation will lose its properties.

If you are planning to install a ceiling from a wooden lining on a metal profile, be prepared for the fact that the costs will increase. In addition to the main material, additional elements will be required:

Profile UD, which is fastened around the perimeter of the entire room;
Profile CD, which acts as the basis of the frame;
Crabs, which are a cruciform mount and U-shaped fasteners;
Self-tapping screws.

Important! Despite the fact that some craftsmen prefer to fasten the lining with a stapler or nails, motivating this by the speed of the method. However, this fastening is considered insufficiently reliable, and therefore, experts recommend using proven self-tapping screws.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: step by step instructions

Ceiling frame installation

During the installation of the frame, it is important not to rush and follow all the recommendations, since in case of a violation of the arrangement of the elements, the geometry of the entire structure will be disturbed, which subsequently cannot be corrected.

In accordance with the instructions, first of all, they find the lowest corner in the room and, adding to it the height of the beam and the thickness of the lining, put a mark on this place and transfer it to other planes in the room. To facilitate this task, it is recommended to use a hydraulic level;

The resulting marks are connected with a nylon thread and the resulting level is beaten off on the walls in the room.

Important! If you use wood during the installation of the frame, pre-treat it with an antiseptic that will protect the material from mold and rot. This work it is recommended to perform in advance, as the material must dry out. The method of processing, as well as its terms, are indicated by the manufacturer of the antiseptic composition on the package.

To ensure the fastening of the lining to the ceiling, prepare a flat base surface on which the cladding will be fastened.

To do this, fasten straight bars with a cross section of 40 x 40 mm around the perimeter, constantly monitoring the water level;

To adjust them, use wooden plates of various thicknesses, which must be placed at the points where the bars are attached to the supporting ceiling panels;

After you have screwed in all the screws, a solid base is formed on the ceiling, which is limited by the surface of the bars;

If you are dealing with concrete floor before fixing the lining, carry out the following activities:

Install the dowels 8 x 40 mm, for which it is necessary, using a carbide drill, drill a hole 40-50 mm deep and insert the dowel. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, drill through the bars at the installation sites of the dowels;

Using a cord, beat off the lines on the ceiling along which the intermediate bars of the crate will be fastened, which should be located at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other.

Important! Due to the fact that even at the stage of installation of the facing surface there is a possibility of an error leading to a violation of flatness and the appearance of noticeable unevenness, it is recommended to use a fishing line stretched along the marked lines. This will eliminate the use of the building level.

To install the inner part of the crate, you will need an assistant who will hold the bars as close as possible to the stretched fishing lines and, if necessary, lay the adjustment plates. At this time, you will drill and screw the bars.

Important! If you are faced with the need for additional insulation, install block and roll thermal insulation materials between the lathing bars, over which you need to stretch a vapor barrier film that prevents the lathing from contacting moisture.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: how to fix the facing material

The next stage is lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house.
This stage is not particularly difficult, but despite this, you will need an assistant. If you are using long panels, this is a must.
Take the first panel and, attaching it tightly to the wall, fix it;
The next panel is inserted into the groove to the previous one and fixed at the location of the crate;
If it is planned to install holes for fixtures and pipes, they are drilled in the course of work, which eliminates the possibility of errors;
If, in the process of lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, you manage to make fasteners at the place where the ridge enters the groove, you will get a really harmonious ceiling covering by hiding the self-tapping screws;
If you are lining the ceiling with plastic panels, all the necessary holes must be drilled in advance, eliminating the risk of surface damage.

Important! Make sure in advance that all communications and electrical wiring are not damaged, since dismantling the surface is highly undesirable. As fasteners, use those made of stainless materials, which will avoid the appearance of stains from rust.

Important! During operation, take into account the temperature and humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out. In case of temperature below +10 degrees and high humidity, it is recommended to postpone installation activities.