Do-it-yourself device for a manual milling cutter. Work with a manual wood router

21.07.2022

Any products made of natural wood are highly valued due to their environmental friendliness and uniqueness. To create real masterpieces from such a natural material with your own hands, you need to have a manual router and have the necessary skills to use it.

In addition, additional devices for the milling cutter are also important, allowing you to produce parts of any complexity exactly as they were intended by the author. for such a tool, woodwork is a fairly simple design, the execution of which does not require special skills or material resources, the main thing is to have a desire. But thanks to their use, the processing of various parts will become much easier.

Tool table

The very first necessary device that makes it possible to work comfortably with such a hand tool is a milling table.

The simplest design of the table consists of a tabletop, which can be a sheet of chipboard or other similar material with holes for installing tools, as well as a guide that is attached to the table with clamps.

Having made ordinary legs, we get the main fixture for our hand tool - a table on which any other fixtures can be installed.

Parallel stop

A similar device for a manual wood milling machine often comes with equipment. But there is always the opportunity to do it yourself. What is it for? The fence itself makes it possible to cut the material in a straight line. But it often happens that the incision needs to be made not straight, but, for example, arcuate.

In this case, it is advisable to make a milling stop, one of the sides of which will be straight, and the other will repeat the shape of the part. In this case, it will be possible to cut wood in different ways. Each master creates templates for such stops with his own hands “for himself”, depending on the purpose of using the milling machine.

Router guides

One of the main components of a manual wood carving machine is its guides. You can make them yourself from ordinary bars.

In the case of using one guide, it must be tightly attached to the base on which all the necessary work will be carried out. To make the whole structure more reliable, at the same time eliminating the possibility of template displacement, it can be additionally fixed with side stops.

If you use such a device for a manual machine, which we made with our own hands, you can always make additional grooves in several products.

Homemade guides are:

T-shaped;
On hinges, can be folded like a book;
L-shaped.

Quite convenient to use are guides that look like skis. You can use them with any type of manual router, making work with a wooden blank as accurate and clean as possible.

Devices for processing bodies of revolution

If, when working with such a machine, you have to process certain bodies of rotation, for example, balusters, poles, and the like, then in this case the process of processing them with a manual milling cutter will become much easier when using another device. It consists of:

corps;
a movable carriage on which the tool itself is installed;
disks with which you can set the desired angle of rotation;
screws that securely fasten the workpieces.

Using such a device, the products will rotate slowly, which will make the processing process more convenient. Thus, you can make a device with your own hands that will become a complete replacement for a lathe.

compasses

Such devices for a manual milling machine ensure its movement along the required circle. The design of a do-it-yourself compass is very simple, it consists of the main part - a rod, which is attached at one end to the base of the tool, and a secondary one - a screw that is inserted into the hole of the hand router.

A compass with two rods is distinguished by a higher efficiency in use. Having made it from some transparent material, for example, plexiglass, a metric scale can be applied to the surface of the device, which will make its use even more convenient.

Using an angular lever with a scale, copying is carried out on the workpiece being processed. In this case, it will be possible to center the ring along the cutter with your own hands in the process of work. Angle arm with support plate ensures accurate workpiece edges. The design of such a device for working with hand tools consists of a set of probes, a base plate, as well as chip protection.

Small extras

Usually, in the kit for the hand tool itself, there are some minor devices that make it easy and convenient to work with non-standard-shaped parts. You can always make such devices with your own hands or slightly improve the existing ones to suit your needs and requirements.

Copy rings. Such accessories are ordinary round plates that determine the movement of the device along the workpiece, which is installed on a table or other base. The diameter of such rings is selected depending on the diameter of the cutters.

The diameter of the template will also depend on the selected ring. They are selected in inverse proportion - if the diameter of the cutter is larger than the diameter of the ring, then the template is smaller than the finished product, and vice versa.

Devices for working with a manual machine on narrow surfaces will not allow the router to move to the sides, passing exactly in the center of the products.

Devices for creating spikes. Such accessories are most often used in the manufacture of furniture to create connecting spikes on the details.

In addition, additional devices for the milling cutter are also important, allowing you to produce parts of any complexity exactly as they were intended by the author. Home-made fixtures for such a wood tool are fairly simple designs, the execution of which does not require special skills or material resources, the main thing is to have a desire. But thanks to their use, the processing of various parts will become much easier.

Tool table

Milling table with stops

The very first necessary device that makes it possible to work comfortably with such a hand tool is a milling table.

Having made ordinary legs, we get the main fixture for our hand tool - a table on which any other fixtures can be installed.

Parallel stop

In this case, it is advisable to make a milling stop, one of the sides of which will be straight, and the other will repeat the shape of the part. In this case, it will be possible to cut wood in different ways. Each master creates templates for such stops with his own hands “for himself”, depending on the purpose of using the milling machine.

Router guides

One of the main components of a manual wood carving machine is its guides. You can make them yourself from ordinary bars.

If you use such a device for a manual machine, which we made with our own hands, you can always make additional grooves in several products.

Homemade guides are:

T-shaped;
On hinges, can be folded like a book;
L-shaped.

Quite convenient to use are guides that look like skis. You can use them with any type of manual router, making work with a wooden blank as accurate and clean as possible.

Devices for processing bodies of revolution

corps;
a movable carriage on which the tool itself is installed;
disks with which you can set the desired angle of rotation;
screws that securely fasten the workpieces.

Compasses for milling cutter

A compass with two rods is distinguished by a higher efficiency in use. Having made it from some transparent material, for example, plexiglass, a metric scale can be applied to the surface of the device, which will make its use even more convenient.

Small extras

Devices for working with a manual machine on narrow surfaces will not allow the router to move to the sides, passing exactly in the center of the products.

Devices for creating spikes. Such accessories are most often used in the manufacture of furniture to create connecting spikes on the details.

How to make do-it-yourself tools for a wood router?

Device - parallel stop

This device, as a rule, is already sold with a router. Therefore, there is no need for its independent development and creation. For a reliable stop of the processed material, this element is used. With it, the movement of the cutter becomes rectilinear relative to the base surface, which can be a table guide, rails or straight edge detail .

Such a device makes it possible to quickly mill a variety of grooves and edge processing, holding the material firmly.

Guide bar

If you need to make a straight cut with a router, then you can not do without this device. To make it, you need any flat board, for example, you can use a piece of chipboard .

First you need to find out the distance from the edge of the milling base to the center of rotation, and it is always the same. To do this, screw a guide to the unnecessary part of the material and make a trial cut. Then you should measure the gap from the edge of the cut to the tire, to which the radius of the cutter is added. As a result, it will be possible to obtain the required value. For example, it is 59 mm, and the diameter of the groove cutter is 14 mm, that is , its radius is 7 mm .

Then you should draw a line under the cut, from which we retreat a distance of 52 mm (59-7), and draw another one. On it we fix the guide and carry out the cut.

Circle milling

For such purposes, use compasses. With their help, the milling cutter can move in a circle. The simplest of these is a device consisting of a rod, one end of which is equipped with a screw with a pin, and the other is fastened to the base of the tool. Of course, it is better to use a compass equipped with two rods.

In general, there are many branded and even home-made devices for cutting circles for a router, which differ from each other in ease of use and dimensions. Quite often, compasses have a mechanism changing the radius of the circle. As a rule, it is a screw with a pin at the end, moving along the groove of the router.

When it is necessary to mill a small circle, the pin should be located under the base of the tool. In these cases, other devices are also used, which are fixed down to the base of the device.

But for cutting circles, it is not necessary to buy a milling compass. Instead, you can use a parallel stop. To do this, the device is attached to the groove on the sole. A screw is screwed into it, which is recommended to be equipped with a sleeve so that its diameter matches the size of the hole. That's all the compass is made. The radius can be adjusted with a stop.

Devices for replication and copying

To create a series of identical products use:

Angle lever;
Copy sticks.

There is a scale on the angle lever, the division value of which is 1/10 mm. It allows you to center the stop ring under the cutter, which helps to accurately reproduce the shape of the part on the workpiece during copying. It is often equipped with a chip guard and a support plate for the best edge finish.

Using copy templates and rings

Copy rings - a round plate with a protruding rim that slides along the base surface along the template. Such a device provides an accurate path for the movement of the cutter. Basically, this element is installed to the sole of the workbench. At the same time, there is several ways to mount it:

Installation of special antennae in the holes on the sole;
Screwing the ring into a threaded recess.

The use of a template also allows you to achieve more efficient and accurate work. It is attached directly to the workpiece with double-sided tape, and then both parts of the fixture are pressed to the machine with clamps. Moreover, experienced millers are advised to check how tightly the ring is pressed against the edge of the template.

In addition, with such a device, it is possible to process not the entire edge, but only the corners. Consequently, pattern processing procedure- an excellent option for cutting grooves for the product.

Dust extractors

Professional craftsmen, in order to ensure dust removal, specially buy a technical vacuum cleaner, which is connected via an adapter with a hose to the router. Moreover, it does not interfere with the control of the tool, and the marking and the place of processing of the product are always open for visual inspection.

It is very difficult to work without a suction unit. But not everyone decides on such a purchase, since it is too burdensome in terms of money, and besides, it is not always justified. True, there is another solution, you can get rid of dust with a household vacuum cleaner.

Between the milling machine and the vacuum cleaner are installed sealed tank. He will capture the bulk of the dust. It is equipped with an additional hose, and a fabric mesh is inserted inside. Moreover, these designs can be purchased ready-made or do it yourself. By the way, a home-made device will help to collect even large construction debris and wood dust with a household vacuum cleaner.

Slot milling device

Such a device is used for processing longitudinal grooves on poles, balusters and other bodies of revolution. The principle of its work is the following. A baluster is installed in the body and fixed. With the help of a locking screw and a disk, the workpiece is fixed in a strictly defined position.

After that, the carriage is set in motion, and the milling a groove along the length of the product. Then the part is unlocked, rotated to the required angle, locked and the next groove is created.

Woodcarving instructions with a milling cutter

For novice craftsmen, working with a hand tool may seem difficult, since the process of controlling it seems difficult. That is why, before you start milling, you need to familiarize yourself with the principle of its operation.

Router Assembly

The first step is to check the place of attachment of the cutter in the machine, as a rule, a collet chuck is used for this. First you need to select the desired cutter that matches the size of the cartridge. If necessary, you can replace it.

But when deep machining is required, a version with an extended shank is used, which is inserted into the chuck hole and secured with a key. This must be done carefully without applying force, otherwise you will pinch, which is not the norm for the router to work correctly. Although it is worth trying to reach a good stop so that the cutter does not stagger. It remains only to clamp the spindle lock and you can proceed to work.

After that, the router turns on, you need to get used to the sound and feel the start. Often, it is because of surprise that many begin to make a marriage.

Depth Selection

In addition, you will need to install a milling depth limiter. First, the machine is applied to the product from the edge, while the cutter should not come into contact with the material. It will have to be pressed until it reaches the required depth, after which position is fixed .

For a more accurate value, a stepwise limiter is used. You can find out its step in the manual for the router. In this case, the knob turns to the desired number of degrees.

First of all, the required speed is determined. This is done according to the table in the instructions, based on the diameter of the cutter and the material being processed.

If you have never worked with a router before, then it is better to try your hand at a draft version. In addition, it will help to set the desired parameters. directly in processing mode .

It is also desirable to compare the results after the tool has moved clockwise and counterclockwise, towards itself and away from itself. When milling a product around, the correct direction is counterclockwise, and on its flat side, on the contrary, away from you. Then you can already start carving the main workpiece.

Homemade fixtures for a manual milling cutter. Learn how to work with a hand router

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Milling fixtures

For full-fledged work with a manual router, in addition to the tool itself, the material and the corresponding set of cutters, you must have one more component - fixtures. In order for the cutter to shape the workpiece in accordance with the master's intent - cutting the material exactly where it is required - it must be in a strictly defined position relative to the workpiece at any given time. To ensure this, numerous devices for a manual milling cutter serve. Some of them - the most necessary ones - are included in the tool kit. Other milling devices are purchased or made by hand. At the same time, home-made devices are so simple that for their manufacture you can do without drawings, using only their drawings.

Parallel stop

The most used device, which comes with the kit for almost every router, is a parallel stop, which ensures the rectilinear movement of the cutter relative to the base surface. The latter can be a straight edge of a workpiece, a table or a guide rail. The parallel stop can be used both for milling various grooves located on the face of the workpiece, and for processing edges.

Parallel stop for a manual router: 1 - stop, 2 - rod, 3 - router base, 4 - rod stop screw, 5 - fine adjustment screw, 6 - movable carriage, 7 - movable carriage stop screw, 8 - pads, 9 - screw stop stop.

Edge milling with rip fence

To set the device in working position, it is necessary to push the rods 2 into the holes of the frame 3, providing the necessary distance between the support surface of the stop and the axis of the cutter, and fix them with the locking screw 4. For precise positioning of the cutter, you need to release the locking screw 9 and turn the fine adjustment screw 5 set the cutter to the desired position. For some models of the stop, the dimensions of the supporting surface can be changed by shifting or expanding the support pads 8.

If one simple part is added to the parallel stop, then with its help it is possible to mill not only straight, but also curved grooves, for example, to process a round workpiece. Moreover, the inner surface of the bar located between the stop and the workpiece does not have to have a rounded shape, repeating the edge of the workpiece. It can also be given a simpler form (figure "a"). In this case, the trajectory of the cutter will not change.

Stop for milling rounded surfaces

Of course, the usual parallel stop, thanks to the recess in the center, will allow you to orient the router along the rounded edge, however, the position of the router may not be stable enough.

Guide bar

The guide bar is similar in function to the rip fence. Like the latter, it provides a strictly rectilinear movement of the router. The main difference between them is that the bar can be set at any angle to the edge of the workpiece or table, thus providing any direction of movement of the router in the horizontal plane. In addition, the tire may have elements that simplify the performance of certain operations, for example, milling holes located at the same distance from each other (with a certain step), etc.

The guide rail is attached to the table or workpiece with clamps or special clamps. The tire can be equipped with an adapter (shoe), which is connected to the base of the router with two rods. Sliding along the profile of the tire, the adapter sets the rectilinear movement of the cutter.

Sometimes (if the distance of the tire from the router is too close), the bearing surfaces of the tire and the router may be in different planes in height. To align them, some routers are equipped with retractable support legs that change the position of the router in height.

Such a device is easy to do with your own hands. The simplest option is a long bar fixed to the workpiece with clamps. The design can be supplemented with side stops.

By placing a bar on two or more aligned blanks at once, they can be grooved in one pass.

Milling grooves on two workpieces at once

When using a bar as a stop, it is inconvenient to place the bar at a certain distance from the line of the future groove. This inconvenience is devoid of the following two devices. The first is made from boards and plywood fastened together. In this case, the distance from the edge of the stop (board) to the edge of the base (plywood) is equal to the distance from the cutter to the edge of the router base. But this condition is met only for a cutter of the same diameter.. Thanks to this, the device quickly aligns with the edge of the future groove.

The following fixture can be used with cutters of different diameters, plus when milling, the router rests with its entire sole, and not half, as in the previous fixture.

Slot Milling Attachment

The stop is aligned along the edge of the hinged board and the center line of the groove. After fixing the stop, the folding board leans back, making room for the router. The width of the folding board, together with the gap between it and the stop (if any), must be equal to the distance from the center of the cutter to the edge of the router base. If you focus on the edge of the cutter and the edge of the future groove, then the device will work with only one cutter diameter.

When milling grooves across the fibers, at the exit from the workpiece, when milling an open groove, cases of wood scuffing are not uncommon. The following devices will help minimize scuffing, which press the fibers at the exit of the cutter, preventing them from chipping off the workpiece.

Two boards, strictly perpendicular, are connected with screws. Different cutters are used on different sides of the stop so that the width of the groove in the fixture matches the width of the groove of the part to be milled.

Another open slot milling fixture can be pressed tighter against the workpiece to further minimize burrs, but it only fits a single diameter cutter. It consists of two L-shaped parts connected on the workpiece with clamps.

Slot Milling Attachment

Copy rings and templates

A copy ring is a round plate with a protruding collar that slides along the template and provides the necessary trajectory for the cutter. The copy ring is attached to the sole of the router in various ways: it is screwed into a threaded hole (such rings are in the photo below), the antennae of the ring are inserted into special holes on the sole or screwed.

Installing the copy ring

The diameter of the copy ring should be as close to the diameter of the cutter as possible, but the ring should not touch the cutting parts of the cutter. If the ring diameter is larger than the cutter diameter, then the template must be smaller than the finished parts to compensate for the difference between the cutter diameter and the copy ring diameter.

Edge milling using a template and copy ring

The template is fixed on the workpiece with double-sided tape, then both parts are pressed with clamps to the workbench. When you have finished milling, check that the ring is pressed against the edge of the template during the entire operation.

You can make a template for processing not the entire edge, but only for rounding the corners. In this case, using the template shown below, it is possible to make roundings of four different radii.

First you need to cut the corner

In the figure above, a cutter with a bearing is used, but the template can also be used with a ring, only either the ring must exactly match the diameter of the cutter, or the stops should make it possible to move the template away from the edge by the difference in the radius of the cutter and the ring. This also applies to the simpler version shown below.

Corner template

Rounding a corner using a template

Templates are used not only for milling edges, but also for grooves on the plate.

Slot milling with a template

The pattern can be adjustable.

Do-it-yourself tools for the router, or buy ready-made ones?

We will try to answer this question in our article.
For those who make wooden products on their own, a milling cutter (especially a manual one) is an indispensable tool. By itself, a power tool, even equipped with an excellent set of cutters, is completely useless without additional devices. It is impossible to hold a working milling cutter within a given trajectory with your hands.

The rotating cutter will move randomly, reacting to tool vibrations and the structure of the material being processed. Even the owner of steel muscles and a hawk's eye will not be able to work with this tool without the use of guides and fixing devices.

This is what a wood cutter looks like

Elementary devices are usually included in the power tool kit, but with their help you can perform only simple tasks. More complex guides and templates have to be purchased for extra money, and many of them can be made by hand.

The main thing is to have an idea of how this device looks and works. There is no need to look for ready-made drawings and complex technical calculations. Any master himself knows better how to make this or that device. In this case, the efficiency and convenience of work will be higher, not to mention the savings.

Mechanical assistants for a manual router

The most common fixture that is included in the basic kit.

Parallel stop

Accessory - rip fence

The design is so simple that it is not difficult to make it yourself. Relative to the line of passage of the cutter, a guide plane is selected (in some cases it can be a flat edge of the workpiece itself), along which the cutter moves. As a stop, any even oblong object connected to the tool by a fixed bar can be used. For reliability, there can be two rods.

The surface of the guide must be smooth, for free sliding. The stop needs to be calibrated.

To do this, a control groove is cut in the workpiece, the distance to it is measured relative to the edge of the workpiece, and the zero mark is fixed. By moving the stop along the bar, you can set any distance with high accuracy.

IMPORTANT! When using two rods, it is necessary to ensure their simultaneous fixation.

The parallel stop is used for milling grooves and processing the edges of the product, including the selection of a quarter. It is also possible to cut blanks of the same width. Compared to an electric jigsaw, the cut obtained with a milling cutter is more even and of high quality. Only the cutter should be of small diameter, to save material.
The device can be used when processing rounded surfaces. To do this, a gasket with a cutout in the form of an obtuse angle is installed between the stop and the rounded end of the workpiece.

Guide bar

This device does not differ in its function from a parallel stop, and is designed to ensure directional movement of the cutter along a given path.

A useful assistant when working with a router - a guide bar

The main difference is the ability to choose the angle of movement of the router. To do this, the guide is fixed on the surface to be treated using clamps or suction cups. You can make such a device yourself from a profile or a corner of a suitable size. It is good to use an old curtain rod. The main thing is to ensure the free movement of the carriage along the guide. For a more stable fixation, it is better to use not one, but two rods. If the width of the workpiece being processed is greater than the length of the parallel stop bar, a guide bar is indispensable.

Using such a device, you can mill grooves along a broken line or cut the edge of a product along a complex path. To do this, the router stops at the break point, the guide is attached, which rotates at a given angle relative to the previous direction. In this case, the cutter remains in the workpiece, acting as the axis of rotation. The guide is then fixed again and milling continues in the new direction.

More advanced models have the ability to change the angle of inclination of the router relative to the vertical. This allows you to significantly expand the possibilities of using power tools.

Compasses for milling cutter

The purpose of this device is clear from the name. It is used for milling grooves in a circle or cutting circles.

Want to make a perfect circle? Need a compass for a milling cutter

The principle of operation is simple. As a leg of the compass, a guide rod with a groove or a plate with calibrated holes is used, which allows cutting circles of any diameter. In the center of the proposed circle, a hairpin is fixed, around which the entire structure moves. But the other end of the guide is a milling cutter.
Factory compasses for a milling cutter can have a variety of designs. Rod with support platform and hinge (double rod design is more stable), slotted plate or calibrated holes.

Template for cutting circles

The main thing is to ensure reliable fixation of the central stud, otherwise the structure may move due to vibration and the workpiece will be damaged.
You can make such a device yourself from any durable and even material, for example, textolite.

Homemade tool for cutting circles

A carriage with a fixing device moves in the propylene groove; holes are provided for fastening the router.
There are also more complex devices for forming ovals. It is based on the same design as in the compass, but instead of the axis of rotation, a support with a cross groove system is used. Moving along them, the virtual axis is constantly shifting, as a result of which a regular oval is formed.

Device for cutting oval holes with a router

With this tool, you can make oval cuts both around the nozzle and next to it. The possibilities for choosing the trajectory of the cutter are practically unlimited.

Copy sleeve

Sometimes it becomes necessary to mill a complex pattern or replicate the same cutouts. For convenience and increase the speed of work, pre-made templates are used. For example, a template is often used - a tenon cutter.

Copy sleeve or copy ring

Or it becomes necessary to cut several identical recesses for the door hinges.
To move the router along the contour of the template, copying rings are used. The sleeve rests on the template, and the cutter exactly copies its profile.

IMPORTANT! The diameter of the copy sleeve is larger than the working diameter of the cutter.

Therefore, when manufacturing a template, an allowance is made for the difference in radius ( Radius, not diameter!)
When the cutter moves inside the template, the cutout will be smaller. When moving outside the template - correspondingly more.

Standard copy rings are included with the router. However, it often becomes necessary to make such a fixture for a specific cutter diameter or original template. Such work does not present great difficulties. It is necessary to draw a drawing, and order the product to a turner. In this case, it is imperative to ensure the free passage of the cutter through the bushing.

IMPORTANT! When installing the copy sleeve on the supporting surface of the router, it must be centered. For this, special centering cones are used.

Installing the copy sleeve on the router

Router Templates

These fixtures are rarely made for milling a single part. The exception is the restoration of a rare product or the restoration of a complex structure, a replacement for which cannot be found. In most cases, templates for the router are used for mass work of the same type:

cutting recesses for door locks and hinges
production of paneled door surfaces
production of figured architraves
cutting studs for joining wooden products
production of identical blanks in the production of furniture

Sample templates of various shapes

With repeated use, the template wears out quickly, and the accuracy of manufacturing parts decreases. Therefore, the template material must be durable and resistant to abrasion. Multilayer plywood and textolite have proven themselves well. More responsible templates are made of metal.
Self-made templates are used everywhere. The main thing is to accurately determine the difference in the dimensions of the template and the finished part after processing.

IMPORTANT! There are no universal templates. Each matrix is made for a specific router, copy sleeve and the cutter itself.

Wood nozzles

The processing of wooden surfaces and blanks gives the widest creative possibilities for using the router. Professional carpenters and joiners use stationary machines, but you can literally work wonders with a manual router. To do this, there are nozzles for wood, specially designed for high-quality processing of various types of material.

Various milling cutters (nozzles for wood) for wood processing

With the help of such nozzles, you can give any shape to the end surface of the workpiece, cut out an imitation of a panel on the door plane, make skirting boards, cornices, door frames, glazing beads and much more. Moreover, the same nozzle allows you to perform different curly cuts, depending on the angle of application.

An example of the different shapes that can be made with nozzles

An experienced craftsman often makes cutters for each type of work on his own. To do this, according to the template, it is necessary to sharpen each cutting edge of the cutter at the same angle. It is painstaking work, but you will get a completely exclusive tool that meets your requirements.
However, industrially made wood nozzles offer a fairly wide selection of shapes that satisfy the needs of most carpentry masters.

Special kits

Separately, there are kits for performing special work - for example, a device for tapping loops. The device is a custom-made or customized template for this type of milling, equipped with specially designed fasteners that fix the tool on the end of the door leaf.

Homemade device for tapping loops

As a rule, such templates are made independently. Any carpenter of a narrow specialization tries to have an individual set, especially if the work is done on the territory of the customer.

Hinge cutters

There are also standard fixtures for loops, in the form of special cutters. To work with them, a template is not required.

Door hinge cutter

When doing home repairs, you can get by with simpler ways of cutting niches for hinges or grooves for a lock. It is enough to install a second parallel stop on the bars and then the router will be securely fixed at the end of the door leaf. This method is less convenient and not suitable for mass production of doors, however, for one-time work, it will save money on purchasing a special set.

Set of cutters for binding

A set of cutters specifically for a specific type of work

There are also sets of cutters, each of which cannot be used separately. In such sets, the sharpening of the tips is synchronized, and each next cutter complements the work of the previous one. Let's take a binding set as an example.

Binding made with a set of cutters

It is when using all the cutters from the set that you can get a joint without gaps.
To increase the versatility of use, type-setting cutters are available.

Universal type-setting mill

Several complementary cutting attachments are attached to the axle, the arrangement of which can be combined. At the same time, one set can perform work that requires as many mono nozzles.
Thus, using a variety of devices for a manual router, you can do complex woodwork with your own hands without using stationary milling machines. This issue is especially relevant when living in an apartment, when it is impossible to find a place to place the machine. And with the help of a manual milling cutter with a good set of nozzles and accessories, you can organize a mini-workshop on the balcony. Only when working indoors, it is necessary to ensure the removal of dust and sawdust.

To simplify the work with a milling machine, some auxiliary devices are often required. Making fixtures for a manual router with your own hands is quite simple, but you should understand what exactly is needed for a particular job. This is necessary in order for the cutter to follow a strictly defined path (this allows you to make a clear, not blurry pattern / line).

Homemade fixtures for a milling machine allow you to hold the workpiece in the desired position relative to the cutter.

Given that such auxiliary tools are usually quite expensive, they can always be easily made at home. In fairness, it is worth noting that some fixtures come with a milling machine. What is needed to work on it will be described below.

What and why

If the master has a milling machine, it is possible to cut grooves in various blanks without any problems and carry out a beautiful engraving. The features of the apparatus for domestic needs are the small dimensions of the device and the not very convenient layout of the machine. If small size is a positive feature, then the device and layout are not always thought out. This requires a special approach to the work process.

Simplification of manipulations with blanks will significantly improve the quality of their finishing.

This can be achieved by creating auxiliary tools. It is no secret that it is desirable to make a device for a specific job on your own, since often industrial products for these purposes are less convenient and practical. The creation of an auxiliary tool will allow you to produce it specifically “for yourself” - in size, shape, for certain purposes.

What is most often made to work on a milling machine:

Parallel stop. It ensures that the straight line of the groove is maintained during operation. Very often it comes with the machine. However, those devices that come with the tool often have a significant drawback - they are short and not wide.
Guides. Usually this is the tire. In its functions, it is similar to a pantograph. However, it allows you to give more space for "manoeuvre" when working. It can be installed at any convenient angle at any distance from the machine. This allows you to quickly and evenly cut through the cutter.
Copy ring. These devices allow you to provide the best and necessary trajectory for the movement of the cutter. They are often installed on its sole. To ensure all the necessary work, rings are made in such a way as to cover all the necessary needs.

Only the minimum necessary tools are listed here when working on a milling machine. There are other devices that are used for finer work, such as pantograph, clamps, etc. Since each master himself determines what he needs and what not, it is not worth considering other devices in detail. All that is required from the devices in excess of the above is done based on our own work experience. This is due to the fact that often people try to become like a super-master, doing and acquiring everything that is possible, but in most cases the tools just hang on the shelf. Therefore, we will dwell in more detail on how to make the listed products.

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Parallel stop

Usually this element is included in the design of the milling machine. It consists of 2 guide rods and a clamp between them. The cutter passes between the guides and is limited by their length.

Very often, the standard stops that come with the machine have very short guides, which significantly limits and complicates the work with long parts and workpieces.

Many manufacturers of milling machines also sell accessories for them, including numbers and stops.

However, the cost for additional devices (even if they suit a person) is often comparable to the price of the tool itself, which makes their purchase unprofitable. Therefore, often masters try to replace the factory focus with a homemade one.

For its manufacture, metal rods or pipes for guides will be required. Their diameter should be equal to the diameter of the latter. As a material for guides, it is best to use stainless steel or brass rods. If their diameter is larger than the holes for the guides in the machine, then the excess metal is removed on the turning tool.

Finished rods must be smooth so as not to obstruct the cutter's movement. To do this, they should be sanded and, if necessary, varnished or painted.

The next important element that is necessary to create a parallel product is the stop, which is attached to the guides (at the end).

To supply new guides with a stop, it is recommended to remove it from the parallel product that came with the cutter and install it on new guides.

If it is required to strengthen the emphasis or there is no possibility of dismantling the easel, in this case it is made independently. As materials, you should use stainless steel for the body and clamps, lead for the weighting agent.

The design can be any: it can copy factory devices or be of its own design and ideas. All this will provide the necessary comfort during work.

The elongated stop eliminates the possibility of vibrations, sudden stops, which significantly improves the quality of the cutter.

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Guide rails

The principle of operation of this device is very similar to the operation of a parallel stop. However, unlike it, guide bars are installed at any angle relative to the direction of the cutter.

This will allow not only to carry out an accurate and even cut, but also allow you to choose the direction of movement of the router. More advanced tires have markings, stoppers, which simplifies a number of operations.

For example, cutting holes at a certain distance from each other or cutting an interrupted groove, etc.

Ordinary boards can be used as a guide rail, which are attached to the surface with clamps or heavy objects are placed on them to fix them. Stop shoes can also be added to the tire, which limit the travel of the cutter. Often they are made shifting, which allows you to adjust the stroke length.

The most primitive tire can be an ordinary board or timber. It is used as follows: the workpiece is fixed with clamps to the working surface (it is important to place gaskets under the clamps), then a tire is placed on the workpiece at the right angle, and a cutter passes along it. However, for better and more convenient work, it is recommended to “upgrade” the board.

To do this, a groove is cut out in it along the entire length, which should ensure the fixation of the cutter stop. This will significantly expand the possibilities of using the bus. Next, stop shoes are made, which will limit the course of the cutter.

They are also made from timber. For a more aesthetic appearance of the instrument, they can be made wedge-shaped. Further, the shoes are equipped with a guide for a groove cut in the tire and mounted.

The use of various devices for a manual router significantly expands the capabilities of this unit, and also increases the comfort and safety when working with it. On sale there are ready-made models of devices designed to be used in tandem with a router, but, as a rule, they are expensive. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to make fixtures for this unit with their own hands.

If you fix a hand mill in a special way under the table, you get a universal carpentry machine that allows you to accurately and quickly process long and short pieces of wood. To make a table for a router with your own hands, you first need to prepare the necessary parts for assembling the entire structure. The figure below shows a cutting map, on which all the details of the future milling table are located. They are cut with a circular saw or format cutting machine.

The device can be made plywood, chipboard or MDF. The cutting chart shows a material thickness of 19 mm, but this is not a prerequisite. The table can also be assembled from slabs with a thickness of 16 or 18 mm. Of course, for the manufacture of countertops, it is better to use laminated or plastic-coated sheet materials that will allow the workpiece to easily slide over the surface.

It should also be noted that this homemade table is designed for installation on goats. If you need a desktop version, then the sides (5) need to be made much wider than 150 mm. Their width should be slightly larger than the height of the machine so that it can fit under the table top.

If the details of the table are cut out of plywood or MDF, then their ends should be sanded. The ends of parts made of chipboard will need to be covered with a melamine edge using an ordinary iron.

Countertop manufacturing

The router can be installed on the table with or without a mounting plate. Countertop preparation for direct fastening to it the unit occurs as follows.

Since the base plate is 900 mm long, its center will be 450 mm from the edge. Put a point in this place and use a square to draw a line.
Detach the plastic cover from the sole of the device.
Find the center of the cut on the overlay and draw a line through the center of the sole using a square.
Place the overlay on the center line of the main plate so that the center of the sole coincides with it, and mark the center of the future hole in the tabletop with a pencil.
Next, mark up the mounting screws.
Drill holes through which the unit will be attached to the table. Be sure to countersink them so that the screw heads are slightly recessed into the countertop.
Drill a 38mm center hole.
The next step should make a parallel stop. Using a jigsaw or router, make semicircular cuts on the front wall of the stop, as well as on its base.
Screw the gussets to the stops. Below is a drawing that shows all the indents for placing scarves.
Screw the connecting strips to the bottom of the table top.
Assemble the milling machine using the diagram below.

Fixing the unit with a mounting plate

When installing the machine on the main plate, its thickness significantly reduces the overhang of the cutter. Therefore, to install the unit on thick worktops, it is customary to use thinner mounting plates made of durable materials (steel, duralumin, polycarbonate, getinaks or fiberglass). The plate is made as follows.

From a sheet, for example, textolite, cut a square blank 300 x 300 mm.
On top of the plate, fasten the plastic pad removed from the sole of the router.
Choose a drill that matches the diameter of the mounting screws and drill holes in the plate using the plastic pad as a template.
Lay the plate on the countertop and circle it with a pencil. After that, inside the resulting outline, draw a square with cut corners, as shown in the following figure.
This figure with bevelled corners must be cut with a jigsaw, having previously drilled a hole in it for the saw to enter.
After cutting the inner part around the outer contour, fix the planks using clamps. They will serve turning cutter template. The thickness of the bars must be sufficient so that when setting the working depth, the thrust bearing of the cutter is in the area of the edge of the guides.
To mill a recess, attach a break-in cutter with an upper bearing to the collet of the unit.
Set the working depth. It must be equal to the thickness of the plate intended for mounting the unit.
Mill this section of the countertop according to the established template in several passes.
Place the plate in the groove you made. It should be flush with the surface of the base plate. If the insert sticks out a little, add a little more insertion depth with the micrometer screw and re-cut with the cutter.
Mark and drill holes for fixing the plate at the corners of the sample.
Place the mounting plate in the prepared seat and, holding it, turn the table top over. Then drill holes in the plate for fasteners. To hide the bolt heads, countersink holes on the front side of the lining.
Also, all holes on the reverse side of the tabletop, intended for fixing the plate, should be expanded for fitting self-locking nuts with a drill with a diameter of 11 mm. The nuts must be planted in the holes obtained with epoxy glue (bolts can be screwed into them for alignment).

Stop improvement

The rip fence can be modified to make setting up the router table more convenient and quick: to do this, you need to cut C-rails into the tabletop. The profile can be made of aluminium. For insertion, a straight groove cutter is used. The profile is placed in the prepared groove and screwed on with screws.

Next, you should choose bolts with a hex head of such a size that it can enter the C-shaped profile and not rotate in it. Drill 2 holes in the base of the rip fence to match the diameter of the bolt.

You should also cut the C-profile into the front stop bar to fix various clamps and protective covers on it.

The emphasis is screwed to the tabletop with the help of wing nuts.

On the back side of the stop, you can make camera for connecting a vacuum cleaner. To do this, it is enough to cut a square out of plywood, drill a hole in it for the nozzle of the vacuum cleaner and screw the resulting cover to the scarves.

You can also add to the emphasis safety shield, made of MDF or chipboard and a small rectangle of plexiglass. To select the grooves, you can use a jigsaw or a router with an installed groove cutter.

In order to be able to process small parts, it is necessary to make clamps and clamps from plywood or MDF.

It is made on a circular saw with a pitch between cuts of 2 mm.

If desired, you can make a milling table with tool boxes.

Making the table base

If you want to make a stationary machine out of a manual milling cutter, then you can’t do without making a solid base. Below is a cutting chart with the parts printed on it that will be required to assemble the table base. The dimensions of the parts will need to be corrected if using sheet material of a different thickness.

All details of the table for a manual router are assembled with the help of confirmations. For ease of movement of the table, rollers can be attached to its bottom. If you slightly expand this table and attach a circular hand saw in its free part, you get universal table for milling cutter and circular saw.

To make the machine take up less space, it can be made according to the principle of a book table with tabletops descending on both sides.

Homemade fixtures for the router

To expand the functionality of this unit, quite expensive devices are commercially available. But the owners of milling cutters, in order to save money, try to make various devices with their own hands, which work no worse than factory ones.

A simple tenon cutter for a router is made from two pieces of plywood and a pair of telescopic furniture rails. The milling cutter is installed on a platform with a hole for the tool. The platform is attached to the workbench at an angle (for more convenient positioning of the equipment in height), as shown in the photo below.

So, the tenoning device is made in the following order.

Cut out 2 pieces of plywood that are the same size. The size of the device can be any.
Place two telescopic guides parallel to each other along the edges of the first platform and fasten them with screws.
For more accurate positioning of the guides, two strips of the same length can be screwed between them.
It is necessary to push the reciprocal strips and put a second platform under them flush with the first. Put a pencil on the second platform points through the bar, and then draw a line through them.
Remove the strikers from the guides by pressing on the plastic “antennae” located on their reverse side.
Lay the mounting strips on the marking platform so that the line passes through the center of the holes for the fasteners, and screw them with screws.
Carefully align the 2 guides and slide them in (you should hear a click). If you insert the part skewed, you will break the telescopes, and balls will fall out of them.
Between the vertical stop with the unit and the movable table, it is necessary keep a certain distance. This is done so that when lowering the cutter, it does not touch the table platform. Since in this case the maximum overhang of the cutter will be about 25 mm, it is possible to temporarily lay a bar of the same width between the table and the stop, that is, 25 mm. The bar will allow you to place the structure parallel to the vertical stop

.
At the next stage, holding the fixture, drill 2 holes for the dowels. They will allow you to quickly position the tenon cutter on the workbench. When the holes are ready, insert a couple of dowels into them. Now you can remove the bar laid between the stop and the fixture.
Now that the movable table is fixed, it is necessary to install a vertical stop on its upper platform, as shown in the following figure. For rigidity, the stop is supported by two scarves.
When all the elements of the tenon cutter are fixed, you can begin testing. Place the workpiece on the fixture table and press it against the stop. Set the desired cutter height, turn on the machine and mill the workpiece.
After the first pass, turn the workpiece 180 degrees and repeat processing.
Rotate the workpiece 90 degrees, placing it on the edge, and repeat the operation again.
Rotate the part 180 degrees and finish the spike.

As a result, you will get a smooth and high-quality spike.

By changing the height of the cutter relative to the stud cutter platform, studs of various thicknesses can be obtained.

Copy sleeve

If your router did not come with a copy sleeve, then it can be made in just 30 minutes from improvised means. For homemade, you will need a metal or duralumin washer, which can be made from sheet metal, and a plumbing threaded extension.

The copy sleeve is made in the following way.

Choose a nut suitable for the thread of the extension and cut it with a grinder so that you get a thin ring. After that, level it on the grinder.
It is necessary to make a round platform for the bushing from sheet metal or aluminum 2 mm thick. Depending on the model of the unit, the hole in its sole may have different shape. In this case, the site should have cuts on the sides, which are ground on a grinding machine.
After grinding off the washer on both sides, place it on the sole of the unit.
Put the unit vertically without removing the washer and mark with a pencil the places for fasteners through the holes in the sole of the unit.
The places marked with a pencil must be punched for accurate positioning of the drill.
First, drill holes with a thin drill, and then with a drill that matches the diameter of the mounting bolt.
Put the washer on the threaded extension and tighten the ring nut. Clamp the part in a vise and cut off the excess thread flush with the nut using a grinder.
Clamp the part in a vise with the other side and shorten it a little.
Align the part on the grinding wheel, insert it into the sole of the machine and fix it with screws. The ring nut should be just below the sole of the unit.

Guides for working with a router

If you need to select a very long groove in the workpiece, then you will need a device for the router, which is called a tire. Ready-made metal tires can be bought in specialized stores. But they are also easy to make with your own hands from plastic, plywood or MDF.

The thickness of the material should be about 10 mm so that the parts can be pulled together with screws.

The guide for the unit is very simple.

Cut into three strips on a circular saw. One wide, about 200 mm, and 2 narrow - 140 and 40 mm each.
Also make a small plank of the same material, about 300mm long and 20mm wide.
Lay a piece 140 mm wide on a wide strip, align it along the edge and twist both parts with screws.
Lay on top of the wide strip, opposite the screwed part, a narrow strip 40 mm wide. For precise positioning, lay a 20 mm wide bar between the upper parts and screw the narrow strip to the lower part with screws. Thus, you get a long tire with a groove 20 mm wide.
Take a bar 20 mm wide and screw it to the sole of the apparatus, as shown in the following photo. For sampling the groove is selected straight or shaped groove cutter and fixed in the collet of the apparatus.

When all fixtures are ready, follow these steps. Place the workpiece to be processed along its entire length on the workbench, place the tire on it, securing it with clamps. Insert the bar attached to the base of the router into the groove of the guide. Start the machine and mill the workpiece along its entire length.

If you want to choose a deep groove, then the processing takes place in several passes, so that the equipment is immersed in the workpiece gradually.

In the presence of a milling machine, work on inserting loops, forming complex holes, recesses, woodcarving, etc. is really simplified. But this does not mean at all that it is necessary to have professional and expensive equipment: it is enough to have a simple manual device.

The only thing you need is to be able to handle wood and use power tools. In addition, you need to have a desire, otherwise there will never be a result without it. Those who have no desire to work simply buy furniture or hire craftsmen to, for example, install a new door and embed locks. Any work, especially with a power tool, requires certain knowledge, and especially safety precautions.

The milling device is intended for processing both wood and metal. With its help, it is possible to form recesses or holes of any configuration. This greatly simplifies tasks such as tapping hinges and tapping locks. To do this with a chisel and an electric drill is not so easy, and it takes a lot of time.

There are stationary milling devices and portable (manual). Manual electric cutters are considered universal devices, with the help of which, in the presence of nozzles, it is possible to perform operations for various purposes, it is enough just to change the position of the part relative to the device or vice versa.

Stationary devices are used in factories or factories where mass production of wood or metal products is established. Under such conditions, the cutting nozzle is stationary, and the workpiece moves along the desired path. When using a hand tool, on the contrary, the part is fixed motionless and only then it is processed, although there are parts that require fixing a hand tool. This is provided for in the design, therefore, it is considered more universal. This is especially true when you need to process a large number of parts, and it is not possible to use a stationary machine.

Homemade milling machine - a horizontal platform with a hole in the center, from below to which a manual fixture is attached.

There are many types of milling machines, but for use at home or for starting a business, universal models are more suitable. As a rule, they are equipped with a set of cutters and various devices for performing various kinds of operations. The only thing is that with a manual router, simple operations can take much more time than with a stationary machine.

With the manual milling device it is possible to:

Make grooves or recesses of arbitrary shape (curly, rectangular, combined).
Drill through and non-through holes.
Process ends and edges of any configuration.
Cut out complex shapes.
Carry out drawings or patterns on the surface of parts.
Make a copy of the details, if necessary.

Copying parts is one of the functions of any electric milling machine.

The presence of such functions makes it possible to simplify the production of the same type of furniture or the production of identical parts that are not related to the production of furniture. This is one of the main advantages of this tool. As a rule, for the production of the same type of parts, it is necessary to install copy machines that are designed to perform only one operation, which is not always profitable, especially in small enterprises.

Getting Started and Caring for the Instrument

To understand how this device works, you should familiarize yourself with its main parts and their purpose.

Composition and purpose of the main nodes

The manual milling fixture consists of a metal case and a motor, which is located in the same case. A shaft protrudes from the body, on which various collets are put on, serving as adapters. They allow you to install cutters of various sizes. A cutter is inserted directly into the collet, which is fixed with a special bolt or button, which is provided on some models.

The main elements of a manual milling device and their purpose.

The design of the milling fixture provides a metal platform, which has a rigid connection with the body. It is attached to the body with two rods. From outside the plate has the smooth covering providing smoothness of the movement in the course of work.

The manual milling fixture has some characteristics that can be adjusted:

Due to the handle and scale setting the depth of milling. Adjustment is carried out in increments of 1/10 mm.
By adjusting the speed of rotation of the cutter.

At the initial stages, when the tool is mastered, it is better to try to work at low or medium speeds. Although you should always remember that the higher the speed, the better the work. Especially when it comes to responsible, visible areas that cannot be masked.

In addition to these levers, there is also a button for turning the product on and off, as well as a lock button. These elements are considered the main ones that ensure the quality and safety of work. There is also a parallel stop, which contributes to ease of use. It can be rigidly fixed or with the ability to adjust the shift of the working area, in the direction from the center.

Caring for your handheld router

Usually, a factory product falls into the hands of a person tested and lubricated, so no additional measures should be taken. Only in the process of its operation it is necessary to monitor its cleanliness and serviceability. At the same time, it should be regularly cleaned of dust and change the lubricant, if the passport says so. Especially lubrication is needed for moving parts. Alternatively, you can use aerosol lubricants, but you can get by with the usual ones, such as Litol. The use of thick lubricants is not recommended, as chips and dust stick to them. If aerosol lubricants are used, then this factor can be eliminated.

Lubrication also requires a sole - a smooth part of the body. Regular lubrication will ensure the desired smoothness of movement.

Despite this, the purchased item should definitely be checked for build quality and the presence of lubrication.

Unfortunately, not all manufacturers, and especially domestic ones, care about build quality. There are cases when, after the first hours of operation, screws or screws are unscrewed from the product, as they were not tightened properly.

Rotation speed adjustment

The operation of any tool is associated with certain conditions related, first of all, to the nature of the material being processed. It can be plywood, composite material or ordinary wood. Depending on this, the rotation speed on the electrical appliance is set. As a rule, the technical data sheet always indicates the operating parameters of the device, depending on the technical characteristics and characteristics of the surfaces being processed, as well as the cutters used.

Processing speed indicators when using various cutters.

Cutter fixation

The first thing the work begins with is the installation and fixing of the cutter. At the same time, one should adhere to the basic rule - all work is carried out with the cord removed from the outlet.

The cutter is set according to certain marks, and if they are absent, then to a depth not less than ¾ of the length of the cutter itself. How to install the cutter on a specific model, you can learn from the instructions, which must be present in the technical documents for the device. The fact is that each model can have its own design features and it is not possible to talk about this in the article.

Installing the cutter on the device before starting work.

There are models both simple and more "advanced", as they say. Some models have a shaft rotation lock button, which makes it easier to install the cutter. Some, especially expensive models, are equipped with ratchets. So it’s impossible to describe specifically the process of installing the cutter, and it doesn’t make sense, since everyone who is familiar with the operation of such devices will figure it out at the moment.

Milling depth adjustment

Each model has its own maximum cutting depth. At the same time, it is not always the maximum depth that is required, but a certain depth, which is set before work. Even if the maximum depth is required, then, in order not to overload the device, the milling process is divided into several stages, changing the milling depth in steps. For adjustment, special stops are provided - limiters. Structurally, they are made in the form of a disk located under the bar, on which stops of various lengths are fixed. The number of such legs can be from three to seven, and this does not mean that the more of them, the better. It is better if it is possible to adjust each of the legs, even if their number is minimal. To fix this stop in the optimal position, you should use the lock, in the form of a flag.

The milling depth adjustment process is as follows:

Thus, the workpiece is milled to a predetermined depth.

On high-quality expensive models, there is a wheel for fine-tuning the depth of milling.

With this wheel, you can more accurately set the depth without violating the previous setting.

This wheel (green in the photo above) allows you to adjust the depth in a small way.

Cutters for manual milling tools

A milling cutter is a cutting tool that can have an intricately shaped cutting edge. As a rule, all cutters are designed for rotational movements, therefore they have a cylindrical shape. The shank of the cutter, which is clamped in the collet, has the same shape. Some cutters are equipped with a thrust roller, so that the distance between the cutting surface and the workpiece remains constant.

Milling cutters are made only from high-quality metals and their alloys. If you want to process soft woods, then HSS cutters will fit, and if you need to process hard wood, then it is better to use cutters from harder HM grades.

Each cutter has its own technical characteristics, which provide it with high-quality and long work. The main indicator is the maximum speed of its rotation, which should never be overestimated, otherwise its breakdown is inevitable. If the cutter is dull, then you should not try to sharpen it yourself. Sharpening of cutters is carried out on special, expensive equipment. After all, it is necessary not only to sharpen the cutter, but also to maintain its shape, which is no less important. Therefore, if the cutter, for some reason, has become dull, then it will be cheaper to buy a new one.

The most popular cutters

There are cutters that are used in the work more often than others. For example:

Groove molds are designed to create recesses in an arbitrary place on the workpiece.

There are simple cutters, monolithic, made from a single piece of metal, and there are type-setting. Type-setting cutters consist of a shank, which serves as the basis for a set of cutting elements. By selecting cutting planes and installing them on the shank, using washers of various thicknesses, it is possible to form an arbitrary relief on the surface of the workpiece.

A type-setting cutter is a set of cutting surfaces and washers, which allows you to assemble the cutter of the desired shape.

In fact, there are a lot of cutters and this is only a small fraction of what is produced. All cutters differ in shank diameter, cutting surface diameter, cutting height, knife position, etc. As for manual milling equipment, it is enough to have a set of five most popular milling cutters. If necessary, they can be purchased at any time.

Rules for working with manual milling tools

Working with power tools requires special rules, especially when there are rapidly rotating elements. In addition, as a result of the work, chips are formed, which scatter in all directions. Despite the fact that most models are equipped with a protective shield, this does not fully protect against the flow of chips. Therefore, it is better to work with such a tool in protective glasses.

The photo shows a model where a vacuum cleaner is connected to remove chips.

General requirements

If you fulfill the basic requirements for safe work with an electric hand router, then the end result will please you with the quality of work and a safe outcome. Here are the conditions:

The requirements are not very difficult and quite feasible, and ignoring them means putting yourself in danger. And one more thing, no less important, is the ability to hold a milling tool in your hands and feel how it works. If serious vibrations are felt, then you need to stop and analyze the reasons. It is possible that the cutter is dull or a knot is caught. Sometimes it is necessary to correctly set the speed of rotation of the cutter. Here you can experiment: either add speed or reduce it.

Edge Processing: Using Templates

Processing the edge of a wooden board is best done on a thickness gauge. If this is not possible, then you can use a manual router, although this will take some time. These works are carried out both without a template and with a template. If there are no skills or there are very few of them, then it is better to use a template. For processing edges, straight edge cutters are used, both with one bearing at the end of the cutting part, and with a bearing at the beginning (see photo).

Edge cutters.

For the template, you can take an already processed board or another, even object. Moreover, the length of the template must be greater than the length of the workpiece, both at the beginning and at the end of the workpiece being processed. This will avoid unevenness at the beginning of the edge and at its end. The most important thing here is that the template or object acting as a template has a smooth and even surface. In addition, its thickness should not be greater than the gap between the bearing and the cutting part.

The width of the part is less than the length of the cutting part

At the same time, the longer the cutting part, the more difficult it is to work with the tool, since more effort is required. In this regard, it is better to start work with cutters that have an average length of the cutting part. The working principle for edge processing is as follows:

The template is attached so that it is at the desired height and has a flat horizontal surface.
The template is firmly mounted to a table or other surface.
The cutter with a roller is installed so that the roller moves along the template, and the cutter (cutting part) along the workpiece. To do this, perform all the necessary manipulations with the template, workpiece and tool.
The cutter is set in working position and clamped.
After that, the tool turns on and moves along the template. In this case, it is necessary to determine the speed of movement, which is determined by the depth of processing.
The milling unit can be both pushed and pulled: as it is convenient for anyone.

After the first pass, you should stop and evaluate the quality of work. If necessary, another pass can be made by adjusting the position of the tool. If the quality is satisfactory, then the clamps are removed, freeing the workpiece.

With this approach, it is possible to remove a quarter along the edge or in some of its parts. This is done by setting the cutting edge so that it goes to the required depth into the part.

A quarter taken on a furniture facade.

If you replace the cutter with a figured one and shift the guide, as well as use the stop, you can actually apply a longitudinal pattern to the part (in the photo below).

Drawing a longitudinal figured pattern on the workpiece.

If you use a similar milling technique (with a template), you can easily master the technique of working with wood in general. After some time, you can abandon the templates, as their installation takes a lot of useful time.

How to make a smooth edge without a template: experience is indispensable here.

The width of the part is greater than the length of the cutting part

Quite often, the thickness of the workpiece is greater than the length of the cutting part of the cutter. In this case, proceed as follows:

After the first pass, the template is removed and another pass is made. In this case, the already processed part will serve as a template. To do this, the bearing is guided over the machined surface. If the cutting part was again not enough, then you will have to make another pass.
For final processing, you should take a cutter with a bearing at the end, and the workpiece must be turned upside down, after which it is fixed with clamps. As a result, the bearing will move over the machined surface. This approach allows processing thick parts.

The bearing is guided over the machined surface while the cutting edge machine the rest of the workpiece.

In order to master the work of a manual milling tool, you will need a lot of rough workpieces, which you do not mind throwing away later. Nobody got it right the first time. For something to work out, you need to train hard.

Obtaining various curly edges

If a curly edge is required, which is most likely to be necessary, then first pay attention to the condition of this edge. If it is uneven, then it will have to be leveled and only then proceed to the formation of a curly edge, choosing the appropriate cutter.

Rounded edge.

It is necessary to prepare the surface so that the cutter does not copy the curvature along which the roller will move. In this case, a sequence of actions is needed, otherwise a positive result will not work.