Replacing the toilet with the dismantling of the old one: preparation, fastening and connection. Do-it-yourself toilet installation: installation video, step-by-step instructions What tools are needed to install a toilet bowl

20.06.2020

You will need:

toilet bowl with cistern and fittings;
a set of fasteners and a flexible eyeliner;
eccentric cuff or corrugation;
adapter collar 123 × 110 mm (for connection to a cast-iron socket);
gas burner or building hair dryer (for disconnecting a cast-iron pipe);
tile adhesive or repair compound (for sealing a hole in the floor);
perforator or impact drill;
drill for concrete with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
tile drill 8 or 10 mm;
kit wrenches and a hacksaw;
hammer and dowels;
tape measure and marker;
screwdrivers and knife;
silicone sealant and rags;
bucket and sponge;
WD‑40 multipurpose grease or equivalent (if required).

If you are installing a new toilet, and not changing it, proceed to the next step.

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Turn off the faucet at the entrance to the tank or (if not) the faucet at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible hose and then press the drain button. Take a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet so that the remains of sewage inside the siphon. Use a sponge to remove water from the bowl.

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Unscrew the fixing screws of the toilet bowl, with which it is bolted to the floor. With a sharp knife, cut the sealant around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the outlet of the siphon and move the toilet away. And plug the sewer socket with a bag or rags so that the smell does not penetrate into the room.

If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First remove the mounting bolts, spraying them with WD‑40 if necessary. Then, with a screwdriver, crumble the cement chasing along the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, preheating it with a burner or a building hair dryer, and remove the toilet bowl.

Sometimes it's easier to split ancient plumbing with a hammer or puncher, and then remove the pieces from the sewer pipe. If you decide to take drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Use a repair compound or tile adhesive to fill in the resulting depression and wait 6-12 hours for complete curing.

3. Assemble the cistern fittings

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Unpack the toilet and carefully read the instructions. Lay out all the details on the cardboard from the box so as not to scratch. Put on the threads of the drain and fill valves cone gaskets with a narrow part towards the holes.

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Reinstall the valves and tighten the plastic nuts by hand and then another quarter turn with a wrench. Make sure that the drain valve does not touch the walls of the tank (otherwise the float will stop and will not shut off the water when filling). To do this, check its course by hand or turn the tank over.

4. Install the tank on the bowl

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Place the largest rubber pad on the shelf and place the tank on top, lining up the mounting holes. Slide the conical washers on the bolts with the narrow part down and insert the fasteners into the holes.

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Install plastic and metal washers from below, and then evenly tighten the nuts by hand so that the tank stands up without distortion. Put the lid on the tank, insert and wrap the drain button by hand.

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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place, try to sit down. To save space, you can press as close as possible to the wall, but not close - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.

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Align the drain with the sewer socket. If you use a straight pipe for connection, measure with a tape measure and cut off the required fragment. Remove the burrs around the edge with a knife. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff - try on how they become.

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Remove a bag or rag from the sewer outlet. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or and insert the pipe into it, and then into it - the toilet drain. Install the corrugation or eccentric collar in the same way.

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On an old cast-iron sewer, first insert a special adapter collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the socket cleaned and lubricated with sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.

7. Attach the toilet to the floor

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Move the bowl to the provided place and mark the fixing holes on the floor with a marker. If there are hidden brackets in the toilet, circle the bottom of the perimeter, and then measure the desired distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.

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Drill holes in the floor. First, tile with a special drill for ceramics, and then with an appropriate drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.

Apply the silicone in a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching the edge of 2-3 cm, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens a little.

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Then install the plumbing in place and, putting plastic washers on the mounting bolts, wrap them with a key. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst - it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Put decorative caps on the bolt heads.

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Fill the joint of the bowl with the tiles with sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, because the white one turns yellow and gets dirty over time.

If there are pipes under the tiles or you can’t drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet onto the silicone.

To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you need to wait at least a day until the sealant completely hardens.

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Using a flexible hose, connect the filling valve fitting to the tap next to the tank. Position the hose so that it is not kinked or strained. Wrap the nuts with a wrench, but not very tightly - they only press rubber gaskets.

9. Install a toilet seat

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Gather the hardware. If the mounts are labeled "left" and "right", do not confuse. Insert the rubber bushings into the holes, place the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them according to the width of the toilet seat holes.

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Tighten the fixing bolts with plastic washers from below. Put the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until it clicks.

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Open the tank faucet, wait until it is full, and make sure that the valve shuts off the water supply. Press the drain button. Make sure that there is no flexible connection on the nuts, and that the drain is connected to a pipe or corrugation and the sewer outlet.

The final chord of the bathroom renovation - installation plumbing devices. If desired, this part of the work is quite realistic to do on your own, without resorting to plumbers. Installing a modern toilet is much easier than a Soviet-style product.

From this material you will learn how to properly install a mounted (hanging) or floor standing toilet at home with your own hands, you can study the detailed instructions and instructional video for installation.

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare tools and materials. What do you need to install besides a new toilet? You will need:

impact drill or hammer drill;
drill (the diameter of the drill is selected depending on the diameter of the fasteners);
if the installation is on tile- tile drill;
hammer;
chisel;
screwdrivers;
set of wrenches;
wrench;
putty knife;
retractable knife;
marker or pencil;
roulette.

It is also highly advisable to have protective goggles to protect your eyes from dust.

Additionally, you will need:

silicone sealant with a gun or in a special tube;
FUM tape or plumbing linen;
metallized tape;
stuffing box;
corrugation;
tap;
flexible hose for connecting the tank to the water supply;
polyethylene film;
bucket and rag;
repair solution;
dowels, if they are not provided with the toilet bowl.

Some installation methods require the use of cement mortar.

Suspension

Do-it-yourself installation of a suspended (hinged) toilet bowl is carried out as part of a major overhaul, before the start of finishing work. The set of tools for installing the device must include a level.

When choosing an installation location, it is important to consider that the shorter the pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer, the better it will be easier to clean in case of blockage. The toilet bowl is attached only to the main wall, otherwise it simply will not withstand the load.

The first and most important stage of any installation is marking. The installation location of the toilet bowl must be coordinated with the outlet of the toilet bowl in order to obtain the optimal slope of the pipe.

Most likely, during the marking process, the frame (installation) will have to be moved several times. Experts advise install the frame so that the drain tank is located about a meter from the floor.

Sewerage and water supply to the installation site of the toilet are brought before the installation of the frame. Elementary logic suggests that after fixing the frame, any work becomes almost impossible. Before installing the frame, leveling is carried out using a level. on all planes.

For precise adjustment of the position of the frame, adjustable legs are provided in its design. The frame is fixed to the floor with anchor bolts to fix the structure to the wall. additional brackets may be required.

When the frame is installed, the toilet bowl is attached. The recommended height of the bowl is about 40 cm from the floor., however, if such an arrangement is inconvenient for you and your family, the height can be chosen empirically.

After that, the walls are finished and the niche is “sealed”. When masking a niche it is important to provide access to the tank in case of emergency. The bowl is installed last.

You can watch the installation rules and the installation process of a hanging (hinged) toilet bowl with your own hands on the video:

Sooner or later there is a need to change the plumbing. Recently, many owners prefer to do the installation work on their own. Further in the article we will deal with how to properly install the toilet.

general information

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you must select it. The main criterion in this matter will be the size of the room. So, for a typical bathroom, a "compact" toilet bowl model of imported or domestic production is suitable. Experts recommend purchasing a product similar to the one that stood before or with the same type of fastening system. It must be said that the assembly different types toilets are different. As a rule, the differences consist in the need to connect special equipment and additional functions. Modern models are equipped with fairly detailed instructions for different languages, including in Russian.

Important Points

Before purchasing a new toilet, you should carefully inspect the old product. You need to pay attention to:

Release angle. Released today various models. The angle can be oblique, straight or vertical. You should measure the height of the outlet to the floor. If the output does not match in the model of the selected product, it will be possible to additionally purchase a drain transitional corrugation.
Water connection. Traditionally, a bottom or side eyeliner is used. A flexible hose is installed. When choosing a new plumbing fixture, you should consider the length of the liner. Before installing the toilet, you should purchase a new hose.
Mounting method. An old toilet can be fixed to the floor with two bolts. In this case, you need to purchase another set of fasteners. In some bathrooms, the appliance is cemented into the surface. In this case, it will be necessary to break the floor screed until a wood insert appears.

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should also check the method of blocking the water supply to the tank - from a common riser or locally. In the first case, you will have to contact local plumbers. It is also necessary to assess the condition of the sewer and water pipes throughout the apartment. It is possible that before you install the toilet, you will need to replace any elements. Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

Drill and drill with a diameter of 10.
Hammer.
To assemble the tank - 2 wrenches.
Silicone sealant.

Preparation for dismantling

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you should remove the old product. Dismantling is carried out in several stages:

Dismantling

First of all, remove the mount to the floor. Bolts (if the old toilet is screwed on) are unscrewed. If the toilet is filled with cement, then the screed breaks if possible. If this is difficult to do, you will have to hit the plumbing object at the fixation points. After the toilet is removed, it must be tilted back. This is necessary in order to drain the remaining water from the cavities. Next, you need to disconnect the socket. The corrugation is simply removed. If a cast-iron or plastic socket is installed, then it must be disassembled to the first connection or cut to size. This is done after the toilet is removed.

Next, a corrugation should be inserted into the sewer socket. From the side of the joint, the element must be lubricated with sealant. The socket should be cleaned from the inside and also lubricated. The corrugation is inserted until it stops. After that, it is better to plug the entrance with an old rag or close it with a special plug to prevent the spread of sewer smell.

old mounts

If the floor is even (flooded with a screed or tiled), before installing the toilet on a tile or cement base, remove the old fixing elements. If the new product has similar fasteners, then the parts are installed in the old places. The old plastic dowels are drilled out. New ones are inserted in their place. Holes can be wider than dowels. In this case, the product will not be fixed securely. To prevent this, new holes should be prepared. The toilet assembly is attached to the place of fixation. Next, you should note the attachment points, taking into account the dimensions of the product, the length of the corrugation and the eyeliner. Dowels must be carefully hammered into the prepared holes. Items should fit easily. From proper preparation holes will depend on the further stability of the toilet.

Screed

If the plumbing product was flooded with mortar, then before installing the toilet bowl, it is necessary to make a new base. After removing the old product, the wooden lining will be visible in the recesses. The floor is leveled with a thick cement mortar, a toilet bowl is placed on top and screwed. After the screed dries, the bolts are finally tightened. One point should be taken into account here. Wood lining can rot over time. If the installation of the bar is not expected, then the screed is poured and allowed to dry for 2-3 days.

We install the toilet ourselves

A new product is attached to the prepared attachment point. Fasteners are twisted alternately - one and the second should be tightened evenly. The product is assembled with cistern. Usually, modern models made in the form of a compact design. In this case, the toilet and cistern are already connected to each other. When installing products equipped with automatic system collecting and draining water, usually there are no difficulties. However, attention should be paid to the assembly and adjustment of the float valve. This element is responsible for the volume and pressure of incoming water. The next step is to fix the flexible eyeliner. One end is screwed to the water pipe. Then you should open a faucet a little and drain a little water. This is necessary to flush the pipe from the inside. Next, the water closes, the second end of the hose is connected to the toilet. Here it is necessary to check the reliability of the rubber pads located under the nuts. Here's how to properly install a toilet.

System check

After completing the installation, you need to check the work. Water opens in the system. While it is being drawn into the tank, you should carefully inspect all the joints, check for leaks. Next, you need to drain the water several times. This checks that there are no leaks in the sewer connections. After a few hours, everything should be carefully examined again. Here's how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands.

custom design

Often there is so little space in the bathrooms that many owners decide to install a hanging toilet. It should be noted that the installation of this product is somewhat more complicated than the one described above. How to install a wall hung toilet? More on this later.

General information

The product itself and the tank are mounted on the wall. For this, a supporting frame is used - a frame. It is usually mounted in a wall (in a niche) and closed decorative panel. The depth of the niche will depend on the width of the tank. In this case, technical gaps of 1-1.5 cm should also be taken into account. The sewer pipe, which also closes in a niche, must have a horizontal socket. If there is no possibility to equip a recess in the wall, then the frame is installed close to the surface. From above it can be sheathed with drywall and tiled like walls. The design of the hanging toilet bowl allows you to disguise all communications. Outside there will be only the product itself and the button for flushing.

Frame installation

The height of the assembled frame is usually 1.3-1.4 m. The lower part of the frame should be equipped with adjusting screws. Brackets are installed on top. With their help, the vertical position of the frame is adjusted. The drain button is located at a height of about a meter from the floor. The toilet seat should be at a level of about 40-42 cm. Partly the exact dimensions will depend on the preferences of the inhabitants of the apartment, partly on the model of the product itself and the position of the sewer pipe. As a rule, there is free space under the structure. It is quite convenient when cleaning the room. The supporting frame is installed strictly in a vertical position. For alignment, use the level. The future location of the frame can be determined using plumb lines. After that, holes are drilled in the wall and floor. Dowels are inserted into them. After that, the frame is installed and the horizontal position is adjusted with the screws. Vertical alignment is carried out by brackets. After giving the frame the required position, it is fixed with lock nuts.

The final stage of frame installation

How to install a tank? In this case, the element is not fixed to the toilet bowl. Installation is carried out on the frame. After installation, the tank should be connected with a flexible hose to the water pipe. Then it is necessary to adjust the elbow-shaped adapter in length. It connects the socket of the outlet pipe and the outlet of the toilet bowl. After that, the pins are mounted for fastening, in fact, the bowl of the plumbing fixture. Corners are installed around the perimeter of the frame. The lining will be fixed on them. All the necessary holes are cut out on its front surface - for pins, pipes and a release button.

Finishing the installation of the toilet

The product is attached to the selected place after the frame sheathing and other Finishing work. At the installation site of the toilet, the wall must be perfectly flat. A special paste must be applied to this place. White cement, Portland cement or white cement can be used as a leveling mixture. The paste should have the consistency of a thick slurry. A gasket is put on the pipes and pins (it is supplied in the kit), then the toilet bowl is hung and pressed tightly against the wall. At the same time, tighten the nuts. The protruding paste must be carefully removed. In conclusion, a few words must be said about how to install a toilet seat. Actually, there is nothing complicated here. The seat is usually attached with two bolts. Included with the product you can find these fixing elements.

In cases where there is a desire to save on the services of specialists or just learn a new building skill, information on how to properly install a toilet will come in handy.

What you need to install

Before you install the toilet with your own hands, you need to take care of the availability of a number of tools:

perforator or impact drill;
drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm (depending on the diameter of the dowel for fixing the toilet bowl);
tile drill (if installation is done on a tile or ceramic plate);
wrench;
set of wrenches;
hammer;
sealant (either in a special tube or together with a sealant gun);
screwdrivers (flat or Phillips, depending on the design of the toilet);
transitional cuff made of rubber 123x100 (if you need to connect to a cast-iron socket);
a set of fasteners for installing a toilet bowl (if it is not included in the kit);
rags and a container for draining the remaining water from the old toilet.

Before you install a toilet, you need to do some preparatory work. For example, you need to decide how exactly to connect the new toilet bowl with the sewer socket. The following options are possible:

Corrugated cuff. This method is the most economical, but in this case the toilet cannot be attached close to the socket. This matters if the bathroom is small.
Straight cuff. It firmly and hermetically connects the bowl of the structure with the socket of the sewer system.
Eccentric cuff. It is convenient if the connection centers of the system and the socket are displaced.

Next, it is advisable to replace the old flexible water supply. The choice of liner is based on the distance from the connections on the cold water pipe to the connection of the toilet filler mechanism. To this length should be added 15-20 cm.

If necessary, you need to pre-purchase adapters for threads at the junctions of flax or FUM tape.

In the case when under the old toilet bowl is preserved wooden stand, it must be removed. A nail puller or puncher will help with this. The resulting void can be sealed with a cement composition, preferably a quick solidification, and a spatula.

Video - Self-installation of the toilet

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

First you need to turn off the water. Disconnect the flexible hose, flush the toilet.
Then you need to unfasten the drain tank. You can carefully, or you can use a hammer (in case the old toilet is no longer needed).
You can quickly remove the toilet bowl with a hammer and a perforator.

Carefully, so that the fragments do not fall into the sewer system, use tools at the place where the toilet bowl is attached to the floor and the junction of the device with the sewer. Then the old bowl must be removed, pouring out the water that remains.

Wood plank removal and floor leveling

After the old toilet is removed, you need to thoroughly clean the sewer socket from dirt and rust. Install a rubber transitional cuff 123x100 into the socket, pre-coated with sanitary sealant.
Then plug the hole with a rag so that odors do not interfere with further work.
Next you need to remove wooden board and fill the resulting void with repair staff.
Align with a spatula to the level of the floor.

Marking and installation of dowels

Put the bowl of the new toilet bowl in the planned place. Mark out through the holes in the bowl on the floor so you can see where to drill. The holes in the toilet bowl are located at an angle, in which case you also need to drill at an angle.
After marking, the toilet can be removed. Next, you need to drill holes in the previously marked places and insert the dowels.

Toilet cistern attachment

In accordance with the instructions that came with the toilet, you need to install the fittings for the drain tank. There are some peculiarities in this procedure.
Tighten the drain and fill valve nuts by hand while holding the valve itself, thereby preventing it from turning and damaging the gasket.
The valves must be installed so that during operation the moving elements do not touch each other and the walls of the tank.
In case of uncertainty, a sanitary sealant should be used as the walls of the tank and gaskets.

The drain mechanism is available in a collapsible type to facilitate the installation process.

Installing the toilet bowl

The connecting cuff is attached with a petal part to the adapter cuff 123x100, inserted into the socket pre-treated with sealant. The outlet of the toilet bowl is inserted into the adapter sleeve until it stops.
It is necessary to turn the cuff so that the toilet bowl takes a flat position, and all the holes of the fasteners coincide.
The bowl is fixed to the floor surface with screws with plastic washers. In cases where the floor surface is uneven, use spacers made of pieces of plastic to level the toilet before finally tightening it.

Connecting the bowl and drain tank

Before you install the drain tank on the bowl of the structure, you need to put a gasket between them. For reliability and to avoid displacement of the gasket, it is better to glue it to the bowl with sealant in advance.
After attaching the tank to the bowl, tighten the screws evenly. After that, install the tank lid and the drain button. Then fix the flexible eyeliner.

System Function Check

At the end of all work, you need to check - draw water into the tank and make a test drain. The amount of drained water can be adjusted, how to do this is written in the instructions.
Inspect all components for any leaks. If they occur, check the tensile strength and, if necessary, disassemble the assembly, re-treat with sealant, then tighten properly.
If the cause is a defective part, purchase new part and replace.

Final stage

Install the toilet seat and fill the gaps between the toilet and the floor surface with sealant.

Doing such work with your own hands is not difficult if you follow the above recommendations and rules. Good luck!

The reasons for replacing the toilet can be different: changing the old one, repairing or rearranging appliances. You can hire experts, but if you want to save money, it's better to figure out how to install the toilet yourself without their help.

Installing a toilet is not such a difficult task, but you will have to master several technological operations and follow some rules.

Choosing a new toilet

Scheme of installing a toilet bowl in an open way.

First of all, you will need a new toilet. When choosing a toilet, you need to pay attention to its size and connection. The best option is to purchase a toilet, like that, which stood earlier. This is important because you will be sure that you will not have problems with the connection, since all the holes will match. But often you want to buy something completely different, in which case you will expect difficulties with installation: the necessary spare parts for fasteners may not be available or it will be necessary to redo the sewer system if the toilet is mounted, for example, on the wall. The classic version of the toilet bowl is a floor-standing toilet bowl, in which the outlet pipe is located at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. If you had a toilet bowl of a different design, it is better to make a drawing of it in order to avoid mistakes when buying. But you, of course, can buy any model you like, especially since some come with detailed instructions on their installation.

When buying a new toilet bowl, you must take into account the distance between the edge of the toilet bowl and the side wall, it should not be less than 20-25 cm, and the size of the toilet bowl is selected accordingly. The second parameter to consider is the distance from the floor to the axis fan pipe, which is indicated in the characteristics of the toilet. If the socket is too high, then you will have to raise the floor level, which is quite laborious. If the old toilet functioned without problems, then the new one should be installed in the same place.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

To install the toilet, you will need to stock up:

Diagram of the structure of a compact toilet bowl.

puncher to make holes in the floor;
dowels;
a set of wrenches;
screwdrivers for mounting the drain tank;
silicone sealant;
large wrench;
tape:
polyethylene;
a piece of thin rubber or old linoleum;
pencil or marker.

For drilling holes, it is better to use a hammer drill, if it is not available, then you can rent it. If you use a conventional drill, setting it to shock mode, you can ruin the tile, and the process can drag on for a long time. Perforator one hole is made without special efforts within 2-3 minutes.

Removing an old toilet

Before installing a new toilet, you need to dismantle the old one, you can handle this yourself. There is an option to use the old toilet bowl again, for example, in the country. But in terms of economy - this is not the best option. All plumbing fixtures are designed for a certain service life, so they can quickly fail if you do not change parts. Replacing parts with new ones can cost as much as buying a new economy class toilet. Therefore, if the toilet has served most of its life, it is better not to reuse it.

Before dismantling, it is necessary to clean the pipelines. The easiest way is to pour hot water into the sewer pipes with some detergent. If you simply drain the water from the tank, this will not help much, since the old plumbing is being dismantled, and therefore there are deposits inside that will prevent dismantling. For flushing pipes, you need to take 2-3 buckets hot water and dilute one bottle of whiteness or domestos in them, then all this must be poured into the toilet. Now you can start dismantling.

Toilet installation diagram.

The tank is most easily dismantled, difficulties may arise with the lower fasteners. IN Soviet times it was not common to bolt the toilet bowl to the floor, most often the toilet bowls were installed on the mortar. Since the same plumbing fixtures were installed throughout the country on concrete floors with nondescript tiles, the described method was widespread. You can break such a base only with a puncher and a hammer. Don't forget your goggles, as shards of faience can get into your eyes. If the toilet was installed relatively recently, then to dismantle it, you need to unscrew the screws with which it is bolted to the floor.

When dismantling the old toilet, some water may spill out, so you need to prepare rags and buckets in advance. Next, you need to seal the sewer pipe using a piece of polyethylene and tape. Polyethylene should simply be wound around the hole and secured with tape. This procedure is necessary in order to avoid overflowing if too much waste flows from above. The intake opening must be cleaned before sealing. If the sewer is cast iron, then you can use a hammer and a spatula. If the pipes are plastic, then they can be cleaned with a sharp knife.

After dismantling the old toilet bowl, it is necessary to clear the place where it will be installed new device. If the floor surface was damaged during dismantling, the imperfections can be filled with a repair mortar. It is not necessary to wait for the complete drying of the solution, since the defects are usually small, and there are support points for the base of the toilet bowl. For complete drying cement mixture it takes a month, after which the surface under the toilet will be a monolith.

Installation of a new toilet

The toilet must be installed on a special gasket, for this a thin sheet of rubber or a piece of old linoleum is suitable. The toilet bowl is placed on the found material, and the place where it stands is outlined with a marker, places for fasteners are allocated. Then, with a sharp knife or scissors, all this is cut out. The gasket is placed on the floor, applying a thin layer of silicone sealant under it for structural reliability. The sealant fills in irregularities and provides good tightness, which will prevent moisture and dust from collecting. After completing this operation, you can start drilling. Drilling can be carried out along the gasket, or before it is installed. With a glued gasket, installation is easier, as it is a kind of guide. First you need to position the toilet so that it is easy to connect to the pipelines, then circle the place on the floor and glue the gasket there. This will be the guideline.

Sometimes you need to lift the toilet a little. For example, if there are two toilets in the system - one in the toilet and the other in the bathroom. So that the water does not stagnate at the lowest point, one of the toilets must be raised by 3-4 cm. A two-inch board is taken for the stand, which is cut to size, a rubber gasket is placed on top of it. All this is held together with silicone sealant.

There are two ways to fix the toilet to the floor: long metal dowels or large plastic bolts. Dowels are considered the easiest and most convenient way, they are easier to buy than specialized sanitary fasteners. The sanitary set consists of 2 long screws, 2 plastic dowels, 2 washers, 2 silicone washers and 2 decorative plastic caps to be put on the screw heads. First, holes are drilled, and then dowels are hammered into them. Next, the toilet is installed and screwed to the base. The first stage is completed, the connection of pipelines remains.

Fittings for the drain tank are easy to install, you just need to fasten the necessary nuts. Installing the corrugation is more difficult. The corrugation is a special polymeric accordion pipe designed to connect the outlet of the toilet bowl and the entrance to the sewer. Previously, there was no such accordion pipe, and builders had to adjust the toilet to the sewer inlet in such a way that the pipelines connected exactly. The junction was wrapped with a kind of fur coat, for which rags, plaster and paint were used. Corrugation simplified the sealing process.

It is very important to lubricate all joints well with sealant. Novice craftsmen often lubricate only the lower part of the connections with the corrugation, coupling and sewerage. Over time, the sewer can become clogged, all drains can go through the top edge, which was not lubricated with sealant. At correct installation it is necessary to apply a thick layer of silicone sealant on both sides of the corrugation with a strip about 2-3 cm wide. The corrugation connects the outlet and the neck of the sewer, while the joints must be pressed down well. After installing the toilet, do not use it for 4 hours, so that the sealant takes a good fit. The toilet must be installed securely and firmly.

How to install a toilet yourself without the help of specialists

You decide to make repairs with your own hands, then you need to know how to install the toilet yourself. In this case, you can save your money, as you will not resort to the help of specialists.

How to install a toilet with your own hands

From our article you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. This is a fairly simple operation, provided that you are able to shut off the cold water supply, and the supply and sewer pipes do not need overhaul. In this case, we will install a toilet bowl with a lower cistern. This option is easier, since most of the weight of the tank in this case falls on the toilet. When installing a toilet with an upper tank, you will need reliable fasteners to support the weight of the latter (this is not a problem for brick walls, but in the case of walls made of hollow materials, you will have to resort to special tricks).

1. If during the repair undertaken in the bathroom the floor height has changed somewhat, it is necessary to compensate for the difference with the help of an eccentric cuff - the so-called corrugation for the toilet bowl (for sewage) and a flexible hose (for supplying cold water). Large height changes will require the skills of a professional plumber.

2. If the floor in the bathroom is not even enough, it is better to install the toilet bowl on silicone sealant. Small wooden/plastic wedges can also be used, but sealant is essential here as it distributes the weight of the toilet evenly.

3. If the sewer pipes go down, through the floor, and not through the walls, you will need a rectangular elbow or a flexible corrugated cuff. This is not the only difference, but the main one.

Assembly and installation of the toilet bowl

2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the inside of the tank. The sequence of actions depends on the type of drain system used in the model you have chosen.

3. Make sure all parts are securely fastened, but do not overtighten the bolts and screws.

4. In most cases, bolts are sold with the cistern to attach it to the toilet. Be sure to put washers and rubber cones on before inserting bolts into their holes.

Installation of a toilet bowl with a cistern installed

6. Insert the corrugated cuff (corrugated extension) into the sewer pipe, making sure that it fits snugly. In our example, a simple straight connecting cuff is required. (When connecting the toilet to a cast-iron pipe, you will need an adapter collar with a diameter of 110 mm. See photo. It must be liberally lubricated with silicone sealant and inserted into a pre-cleaned cast iron pipe see photo. Only then can a corrugated plastic cuff be inserted into it.

7. Move the toilet to the sewer pipe. Make sure that its outlet is flush with the installed nozzle. Most likely, the way it is. But if not, and the offset is quite large, then you will need to use an eccentric bellows.

8. Gently place the toilet in its place by placing the cuff over the outlet.

9. Make sure the tank is level with a spirit level along the back wall. Through the back wall of the tank, mark the places on the wall where you have to make holes for fixing it.

10. Do the same with the toilet itself: check its levelness with a spirit level and mark the mounting holes on the floor, trying to be as accurate as possible.

11. Mark the edges of the base of the toilet with a pencil on the floor. Knowing the exact position of the “leg” will come in handy when you finish the preparatory work and proceed to the final fixing of the toilet.

12. Move the toilet away from the wall. Drill holes for mounting the tank, focusing on the marks on the wall. Select (taking into account the material of the wall) and insert the dowels.

13. Drill holes in the floor at the points you marked. When drilling ceramic tiles you will need a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit. At the beginning of drilling, the pressure on the punch should not be large; after passing through the tile layer, the pressure can be increased. Insert the dowels into the holes. If the floor is wooden, as in our case, they are not needed.

14. Before installing the toilet in place, apply silicone sealant to the floor along the line marked with a pencil, corresponding to the border of the base of the “leg”.

15. Put the toilet in its place. Screw the cistern to the wall by inserting washers between the screw heads and the cistern wall. Don't overtighten the screws.

16. Screw the base of the toilet to the floor. In this case, the same rules apply: firstly, do not forget about the plastic washers, and secondly, do not tighten the screws too tight.

Connecting the water and finishing the installation

17. Connect the tank to the cold water pipe. With a high probability, you will need a flexible connecting hose for this. The connection point depends on the position of the inlet pipe on the new tank.

18. Turn on the water by opening the shut-off valve and check for leaks at all connections. Also check the tightness of the junction of the toilet with the sewer and coat all connections with silicone sealant.

19. Install the toilet seat as designed. If necessary, adjust the seat to exactly match the shape of the toilet.

20. Apply silicone sealant around the base of the toilet. Smooth out any unevenness with a damp sponge, achieving a neat look.

How to install a toilet with your own hands - step-by-step instruction A photo

Follow our step-by-step instructions and you will learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands and what is needed for this.

How to install a toilet yourself

With "straight" hands, most of the housework can be done independently. This category of work includes the installation of a toilet bowl. Knowing the sequence of actions, installation or replacement can be done by hand.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation is a task of medium complexity

Types of toilets

In this article, we will consider not the features of the flush or the shape of the bowl, but those design features that determine the list installation work.

According to the installation method

The toilet itself consists of a sanitary bowl and a drain tank. The bowl can be floor mounted or suspended. If the bowl is hanging, then the tank goes concealed installation- built into the wall. In the case of a floor bowl, there are three options for fixing the tank: on a special shelf on the bowl (compact), separate, connected with a flexible hose, in the installation (hidden in the frame wall).

Typical sizes of toilet bowls of different designs

The advantage of a floor-standing toilet with a conventional flush tank is ease of installation. It can be installed without starting repairs. The disadvantage is that compared to the hanging one, it takes up more space, looks more heavy. Accordingly, for suspended models, installation is difficult - it is necessary to fix the supporting structure - installation - in the wall. Perhaps it is only during the repair.

Release to the sewer

The choice of toilet for release into the sewer depends on the location of the sewer pipe. They happen:

with horizontal outlet;
oblique release;
vertical.

Types of outlets (outlets) of the toilet bowl

If the pipe is in the floor, a vertical outlet is optimal. If the exit is in the floor, but is close to the wall, the oblique toilet is most convenient. Horizontal option universal. Using a corrugated pipe, it can be connected both to the wall and to the floor.

Installing a toilet bowl with a compact cistern (floor version)

They usually bring a toilet bowl, a cistern separately from the store, drain device and float. Before installing the toilet, everything except the float must be assembled.

What does a floor-standing toilet with a "compact" cistern consist of?

The process begins with the installation of a drain device. It comes assembled, you only need to install it in a hole in the bottom of the tank. A rubber gasket is placed between the drain device and the tank.

We install the drain mechanism inside the tank, placing a pre-rubber gasket

FROM reverse side the plastic washer that comes with the kit is screwed onto the nozzle. It is tightened by hand, then - using a key, but very carefully, since it is easy to break the plastic. To prevent the drain device from spinning, it must be held by hand.

Tighten the nut carefully

The next step is to install the mounting screws on the tank. They are also included in the standard package. These are long thin screws made of galvanized or stainless steel. They are inserted into two small holes at the bottom of the tank, rubber gaskets are put on, then washers, and only then nuts are screwed on.

Install the mounting screws on the tank

Before installing the tank on the toilet bowl, a gasket (included) is placed under the tank. To prevent odors from leaking out of the sewer, it must be “planted” on a sealant. First we coat it on one side, put it on the toilet bowl, coat it on the other, put the tank.

Lubricate the gasket with silicone, put on the toilet

Lubricate on the other side

We install the tank on the shelf of the bowl, passing the screws into the corresponding holes. We put washers, nuts on the screws from below, tighten them. At the same time, make sure that the tank is level.

Installing the bowl on the bowl

Next, we put a float - a device for controlling the water level in the tank. There are two holes in the top of the tank. Here we insert the device into one of them. It is mounted on the side from which the water supply will be connected.

We put a float in the tank

We wind a little flax on the outlet pipe, coat it with sanitary paste, install a corner (brass or stainless). Do not tighten the connection strongly, do not clog that the pipe is made of plastic.

Floor mounting

The toilet is almost assembled, you can put it in place. The toilet bowl is connected to the sewerage by means of a corrugated adapter. At the ends, it has rubber seals that fit snugly into the pipes and onto the toilet outlet.

Corrugation for connecting the toilet to the sewer

If sewage pipe plastic, the corrugation is simply inserted until it stops. If the riser is cast iron, and not yet new, so that the smell does not seep through the microcracks, the pipe is cleaned to metal, washed and dried. A layer of sealant is applied around the circumference on a dry, clean metal (a little more in the lower part), then a corrugation is inserted. For greater certainty, you can go through the sealant on the outside of the joint.

In order for the installation of the toilet bowl on the old cast iron to be airtight, a layer of sealant can be laid under the corrugation

In any case, we insert a corrugation into the sewer pipe.

We insert the corrugation to the stop

The second end of the corrugation is put on the outlet of the toilet bowl. This is the connection of the toilet to the sewer. Everything is so simple. There is only one caveat. So that it can be removed later, the corrugation outlet and the outlet of the toilet bowl are lubricated with soap moistened with water, only then the bell is put on. If this is not done, it will be problematic to remove the toilet without damaging the corrugation. But you still have to drill holes for fasteners. It will be much more convenient to remove, rather than trying to move a partially fixed device.

Putting the corrugation on the outlet, we expose the toilet as it will stand. Having installed the lid on the tank, we check that there is a place for it. Next, you need to sit down, check the comfort of use, if necessary, correct the position. Then they take a pencil or marker, inserting it into the holes in the sole, mark the places for installing fasteners.

Mark places for fasteners

Having removed the toilet bowl, holes for the dowels are drilled in the marked places. If the kit comes with plastic fasteners, do not use it - it will break in a few days. It is necessary to immediately put powerful dowels.

If the toilet is installed on a tile so that it does not crack, it is better to pierce the glazed surface. They take a self-tapping screw, mark it, hit it with a hammer several times. This is what is called "pinching". Then they take a drill or a puncher and drill a tile, turning off the shock mode. After the tile is passed, you can turn on the perforation mode.

Drilling holes for fasteners

Put in holes plastic stoppers from dowels. They must be in the same plane with the floor. If there is a thicker edge, cut it off with a sharp knife.

We sweep the floor, removing dust at the installation site of the toilet. We put it in place, insert the dowels into the holes, twist them with the appropriate key. It is necessary to tighten the bolts alternately on one side, then on the other. Tighten until the toilet becomes firmly, without play.

The final touch is the connection to the water supply. Connect outlet water pipe with a tap installed on it with a corner on the tank, which was connected earlier. This requires a flexible hose. At its ends there are union nuts (American), so there will be no problems with fastening. Tighten well, but without fanaticism.

How to install a wall hung toilet with installation

For installation wall hung toilets the outlet of the sewer pipe should be located near the wall. The specific distance from the wall is indicated by the manufacturer, but it should be small - from the far edge of the order of 13-15 cm. If the exit is from the floor, there is a solution - a special overlay with which the drain is transferred closer to the wall.

The installation of a wall-hung toilet begins with fixing the stops to the wall to the installation frame. They are attached two at the top and at the bottom. With their help, the distance to the wall is adjusted, the frame rises and starts.

Install top stops

The upper stops are in the form of rods, adjustable with a socket wrench and a screwdriver. The bottom stops are more like plates, they are also adjusted with a socket wrench but with a side head.

Bottom stops and height adjustment

The assembled frame is attached to the wall, its center is exposed above the middle sewer outlet. The mark on the frame rises or falls to the height required by the manufacturer (there is a mark on the frame, also indicated in the passport, usually 1 meter).

Align height and away from wall

With help bubble level the horizontal and vertical installation of the installation for the wall-mounted toilet bowl is checked.

By adjusting the height of the stops, an equal distance from the wall, set by the manufacturer, is set. How convenient it is to do, look at the photo.

The specified distance to the wall is set

The exposed frame must be fixed to the wall. In appropriate places put marks with a pencil or marker, drill holes. They are equipped with plastic housing dowels. Most of the hanging toilets are imported, and they recommend planting the dowel bodies on the sealant. IN drilled hole some of the sealant is squeezed out, a dowel is inserted. Then, before installing the fastener itself, the sealant is applied to the plastic case.

In a fixed installation, you can put connecting elements - branch pipes, couplings. They are all included and simply snap into place.

Pipes and connectors are installed

Pipes from the tank and sewerage are installed

Next, metal rods are installed on which the toilet bowl will be held. They are screwed into the corresponding sockets, silicone seals are put on top (in the lower photo these are two rods above the sewer outlet).

Toilet holders are installed, the sewer pipe is fixed

The sewer pipe extends to the desired distance, is fixed in a predetermined position with a bracket. It covers the pipe from above, is inserted into the groove until it clicks.

Next, water is connected to the tank. Open the tank lid (it is latched), the plug on the side surface is removed. Right or left - depends on where you have water. A corrugated pipe is inserted into the opened hole, the counterpart is inserted from the inside, everything is connected with a union nut. Tighten without applying excessive force - it's plastic.

Connecting the installation to the water supply

A tee is installed inside the tank, a pipe (usually plastic) is connected to the desired outlet. They do this with the help of an adapter and an American.

Water pipe connection

A hose from the tank is connected to a special tee inlet. It is flexible, in a metal braid. Tightened with a cap nut.

Connect the hose from the tank

Install the cover in place. In principle, the installation for the toilet is installed. Now we need to close it. To do this, make a false wall of moisture-resistant drywall. It is recommended to put two sheets, but you can use one. Drywall is attached to the installation frame and to the mounted profiles.

Fixing the false wall to the installation frame is mandatory

The toilet bowl is put on the pins, its outlet goes into the plastic socket. The connection is tight, no additional measures are required. This completes the installation of the toilet with the installation.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation: floor-standing, hanging with installation, instructions with photos, videos

Self-installation of the toilet will save a substantial amount of money. With your own hands, you can install both a floor model and a pendant one, with an installation.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. And it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing in the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilet bowls are so different that they have a very different type of attachment, flush, sewer supply, etc. So, ideally, you need to start planning which toilet you have to mount with your own hands already at the design stage of the toilet.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation

And what to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it, avoiding the global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, step by step guide and a few tips from the masters will help save money and mount the toilet with your own hands without any problems.

Planning space in the toilet room

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet bowl that is to be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

whether it is necessary to dismantle the toilet bowl, which has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and supply of sewer communications and floor screed);
what are the dimensions of the new plumbing - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
what mount your future toilet has;
what is the way to flush the toilet;
At what height do you want to install plumbing.

If you know the answers to all these questions, it remains only to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet bowl.

Recall that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in form and its device.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet, which needs to be dismantled, is not wall-mounted, which means that it is attached to the floor. It will be possible to remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

Before breaking the toilet, you must turn off the water supply and unscrew the tank

Removing an old toilet

If the neck is disconnected from the pipe, and the toilet is firmly glued to the floor with mortar, then you need to take a chisel and carefully chip the pedestal from the mortar, you can use parts

If there are no plans for an old toilet, and you are seeing him off on his last journey, then after swinging it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to carry it out. You will also have to do the same if the fasteners of the old plumbing are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, evaluate the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron create many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet bowl and distributing sewer drains.

Self-installation of plumbing "step by step"

For normal operation, the toilet bowl needs a flat, lined or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

First, we connect the drain of the toilet bowl with the help of a corrugation to the outlet of the sewer pipe-riser. You can also use a hard tube. The best way- if the toilet drain enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to consider that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

Toilet installation - cuff

We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

Then we take a corrugated pipe and also apply silicone sealant

We install the corrugation in the pipe

Then we carefully move the toilet bowl and install its outlet into the corrugated pipe seal

To prevent water from getting under the toilet during mopping, this place can be sealed with silicone sealant

We fix on the floor: 3 types of fasteners

The first option for floor installation is anchors embedded in the screed. During the pouring of the floor, long anchors are fixed at the place where the toilet bowl and its fasteners will be located. After the screed dries and the floor is finished, a toilet bowl is attached to the anchor. This is the most hard way fasteners, since it is difficult to install the anchors so evenly that the toilet stands on them without problems. It often happens that inexperienced builders choose too short anchors, on which it is then impossible to screw nuts. The anchor embedded in the floor must be at least 7 cm above the finish surface in order to screw the toilet to it. Gaskets are required under all nuts so that the surface of the toilet does not crack.
The second option for securely fixing the toilet bowl on the surface during the overhaul of the toilet is installation on a wooden base. The main thing is that the board strictly matches the size of the base of the toilet bowl. When pouring the floor, the board is prepared by hammering nails into it. Then it is laid in the solution with nails down. After the screed has dried and the room has been finished, the toilet bowl, previously planted on a layer of epoxy resin, is screwed to the board using ordinary screws. Under them, rubber or polymer gaskets are also needed.

You can fix the toilet with a wall tank without screws, for one resin. True, with this method of fastening, it is first necessary to clean the surface of the tile so that the glue holds better. When using "epoxy" it is important to allow freshly installed plumbing to dry properly and gain a foothold on the floor surface.

Fixing the toilet to the wall

How to install the installation

Wall hung toilets are being used more and more. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). Wall mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. The cistern and pipes of the toilet in this case are behind a false plasterboard wall. If the mounted plumbing has an open tank, then it will be possible to fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe should be inside the wall. The same anchors embedded in the wall or in the supporting frame will hold the structure.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

After fixing the toilet bowl on the wall or on the floor, it remains only to assemble the toilet bowl. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fixed, or a pipe is connected to it from a tank hung on the wall.

Installing a toilet on a pedestal

It remains only to check if the toilet is working, and if there are any leaks. Turn on cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. Rinse and see if it flows from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you, for sure, can already handle it yourself.

Before buying plumbing, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the supply of the sewer riser, you must choose the same type as in the toilet that has worked out. Remember: no adapters will help to qualitatively connect the toilet bowl to the type of outlet that is not suitable for it.
Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet bowl for the final moment of repair: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that ugly streaks and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation was successful

Do-it-yourself toilet installation - step by step instructions!

Learn how to install a toilet bowl with your own hands. Step by step instructions, tutorials, photos + videos and the best tips from professionals!