Sealing joints and cracks in a cast-iron pipe. How to fix a leaking pipe with your own hands A cast-iron sewer pipe burst

01-12-2012: Ludmila

Please advise, the cast-iron sewer, the last 9th floor, the pipe leading to the roof has longitudinal cracks from which condensate oozes (leaks), especially in winter. The pipe is heavily colored oil paint, I covered it with something before. How to put it in order?

01-12-2012: Dr. Lom

Judging by the fact that bad smell You are not complaining, the cracks do not open completely and therefore you can simply cover the cracks with silicone plumbing sealant. However, before applying the sealant, the pipe surface should be thoroughly dried; the sealant will not stick to the wet surface, however, this is true for any repair method.
In general, I added longitudinal cracks and methods for their sealing to the list of possible defects for cast-iron pipes, see other methods in the article.

16-03-2013: natasha

Please tell me, in our kitchen there is a sewer pipe, it does not flow, but there is an unpleasant smell from it. Can you tell me how to insulate it so that there is no smell,

16-03-2013: Dr. Lom

If the joints of the pipes of the riser are not tight, then during normal operation of the sewer they may not leak, but in this case there are no obstacles for sewer gases. Those. you still need to check the tightness of the joints or just cover them with sanitary silicone, as the joints are dry.

08-05-2013: MiSchum

Hello. I have the following problem.
The joint of the cast-iron outlet to the riser with a socket + a plastic toilet tee 100 through a rubber cuff.
The plumbers set up the whole thing, but they didn’t apply silicone or anything, they didn’t clean the pipe in the socket, as a result they flooded the neighbors.
Everything is complicated by the fact that when draining sewage from neighbors, water flows into our sewer all the time, i.e. it is unrealistic to dry it before docking with a plastic tee.
While smeared good layer ordinary plumbing sealant on the rubber cuff on all sides, and pressed the plastic tee back. It seems not to flow, but I read that such a connection is not durable and sooner or later it will flow again.
Now I’m thinking of covering it inside the joint (I can get there through the tee) with a hydraulic seal, as well as outside the joint. How long will this method work?
Thank you.

08-05-2013: Dr. Lom

As a rule, if it was possible to eliminate the leak, then additional sealing is not required. silicone relatively new material and I can’t say anything for sure about its reliability, but based on personal experience use, at least 20 years of silicone will last.
Nevertheless, any additional sealing is an increase in reliability, you can use any additional sealing methods, in particular, and indicated by you.

17-05-2013: Olga

Hello! How can you seal a 3x3cm hole hermetically in the lower part of the plug of a cast-iron sewer pipe under the toilet bowl, what is the best way to seal it thoroughly? The hole cannot be dried.

17-05-2013: Dr. Lom

Without seeing the situation, it is difficult to say anything definite. Usually, if it is not possible to dry the hole, then a clamp is placed or a wooden chop is clogged. If things are really bad and nothing fits, then try using a hydroseal. Although hydraulic seals are intended mainly for working with concrete and stone, if the seal is made correctly, then after curing, it will reliably grab onto the metal.

19-06-2013: Irina

Hello! I have a big hole in a cast-iron drain, a pipe in the form of a knee and a hole on the outside, it was made out of necessity by the housing office workers, and now it’s leaking. I live on the 7th floor of an 8-story building brick house Built in 1959. They offer me to wrap it with a rubber bandage and wire, but they themselves say that this is temporary. And I want to do repairs, what can you suggest more capital

19-06-2013: Dr. Lom

Of the capital - only a complete replacement of the knee.

09-07-2013: Ruslan

Hello! I myself am an experienced plumber myself and not long ago I encountered such a problem. 110 the plastic one had to be plugged, but leave a sealed hole of 35 mm for the drain pump hose. My question is how would you do it, thanks in advance!

09-07-2013: Dr. Lom

I would first insert a 110x50 adapter, and a suitable rubber cuff into the adapter. In cramped conditions, you can choose an adapter that occupies a minimum of space.

05-11-2013: Alexander

Hello! such a problem .. The sewer pipe in the toilet, there is no plug on it, which is held on by two bolts !! There is no such thing anywhere in stores! They advised plastic with a cuff, but they all have a diameter of 110., this one does not fit. What can be done ??? I wrapped it with plywood with a gasket, but the smell is still not pleasant

05-11-2013: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, there is no cover on the revision. Try covering up the gaps between the hatch and the plywood with silicone, or even cover them with plasticine.

04-05-2014: Turgenev

It is bad and painstaking to close up a crack with cottage cheese, but cover it with chalk, and then liquid glass soak. When it dries, you need to ignite blowtorch, liquid glass will harden and will serve happily ever after. The color will remain white.
And it's even better to change an apartment, a hole in the sewer is unfortunately.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Good day!
We have such a problem. When drilling a through hole with a puncher (drill 12), a cast-iron sewer riser was pierced. The pipe (diameter 100 cm) is covered with plasterboard with ceramic tiles on it. The pipe itself is treated with resin and painted on top (the old one will peel off). The impact hole turned out just in the place where the ventilation grate, i.e. there is access to damage. It was decided to quickly buy a cold welding "White Titan", having previously sanded a little around (you know, when it whips out of a hole you can't prepare much), applied the mass mashed according to the instructions and pressed it with a clamp. The next day I decided to remove the clamp and see how this welding "works". In general, without a clamp, water began to ooze from under it. Then after some thought I decided to do the following. Having cut out a square of approximately 7x7 cm with a chisel from sheet metal (having previously bent it), I also cut out the same square from rubber about 3 mm thick and acquired two clamps (101-121 mm) for installing downpipes. Having made a new portion of welding (after removing the old one, quite easily), I covered the hole, covered everything with a sandwich from a 7x7 square of rubber and steel on top and pulled it together with two clamps. Now I’m sitting and thinking if a crack could have gone down the pipe along the resin, for example, maybe a puddle has already gathered there. Probably, to calm my conscience, one of these days I will carefully dismantle the bottom tile and check for the presence of liquid / moisture at the bottom behind the skin. Are the measures taken above sufficient, and how long will they last? Will the hole be wasted by water and corrosion over time? They write that the natural loss of cast iron from corrosion is 0.1 mm per year.

28-07-2014: Dr. Lom

If, as a result of the breakdown, a crack did not form on the pipe, then the measures you have taken should be enough for a long time. That's just cold welding, if water constantly gets into the hole, it is unlikely to seize normally. In general, the clamp can stand for 5 and 15 years, but sometimes it will be necessary to check its condition. As for the loss of cast iron by 0.1 mm per year, I hear it for the first time. So for 50 years nothing would have been left of cast-iron pipes, and in some places they serve for 100 years.

28-07-2014: Ivan

Yes, the hole was wet, because the pipe is located vertically, and there are 8 more floors on top. But in the instructions for welding, the possibility of working under water was indicated. Immediately below the clamp, I wrapped the pipe with toilet paper, using it as a leak indicator. As long as it's dry.

04-08-2014: Angelina

Hello,
Cracked sewer pipe. The depth (height) of the crack is 11 cm. It cracked in the wide part of the pipe, which from above finds (enters it) onto the pipe coming from the top floor, I see it coming out of the ceiling. The case takes place on the 2 (3) floor of a 12-storey brick building built in 1955. A solid pipe does not go to the floor. Approximately 110 cm from the floor, it enters a wider “neck”, and under the “neck” there is a “hatch” on four large bolts. Turned off hot water for prevention, after switching on and the current heat, it is very hot in the toilet, it began to flow through the pipe during rush hours in the morning and evening. Puddles form on the floor, there is no obvious smell now, but when it was very hot it was a little. Because it is very hot in the toilet, plywood shelves 2 cm wet through and dry out overnight. The plumber came and said that they would mint.
Advise, please, to agree to minting, or to insist on a replacement. And how can I check the correctness of the work.

04-08-2014: Dr. Lom

Agree to caulking, if that doesn't fix the leak, then insist on a replacement. It is easy to control the work - if the leak is eliminated, then the work is done correctly. More details in the article "Rules for the installation of sewerage."

15-11-2014: Nika

good afternoon, I have a problem, the tee in the toilet cracked 1 mm and length 1.5 cm how can it be repaired is it possible to wrap it with liquid glass with cement with a bandage for nothing how to dilute cement and liquid glass advise how best

15-11-2014: Dr. Lom

Judging by your description, the crack is really small. If water does not ooze through the crack, then you can simply wrap the pipe with a bandage, after pouring cement on the bandage or on the crack and moisten the bandage a little. If you use liquid glass, then you do not need to moisten the bandage, the role of water in this case will be performed by liquid glass. I will not tell you any special proportions, you will see them yourself.

07-12-2014: Timothy

Hello! Please advise how to solve the problem in this situation. We live in a block Khrushchev on the 5th floor. Water began to drip from the ceiling. They called a plumber. repaired fan pipe in the attic, gouging the wall from the side of the entrance (they decided not to touch it from the bath - there are beautiful suspended ceilings). In spring/summer/autumn it didn't drip. Now, after the onset of cold weather, it began to drip again. They called a plumber. They said that they forgot to close up a hole from the attic, through which warm air rises from us (we can’t see it, since the ceiling is hinged). The hole was filled with construction foam. It seems to drip less, but it still drips. We slipped a mobile phone with a camera into the hole of one of the bulbs (after unscrewing it), took pictures. It can be seen that the rail to which the ceiling is attached is raw, i.e. water still flows from the attic. Please, prompt, in what there can be a problem. Hot water, cold water and heating do not go to the attic.

07-12-2014: Dr. Lom

Options 2. Or is it condensate or precipitation flowing down the fan ventilation pipe due to a poorly sealed joint on the roof. In any case, the mounting foam does not have waterproofing properties and the joint of the pipe with the ceiling above your ceiling should be sealed with at least a cement-sand mortar from above.

11-12-2014: Igor

Good day. Do not tell me what or how to eliminate in cast iron bath small holes less than 1mm. (water seeps through them)

01-03-2015: ruslan

I have strong condensate on the cold riser pipe, the neighbor upstairs (on the 4th floor) has the same thing, he drowns me slowly. Water is constantly making noise through the pipes, that is, water is constantly being withdrawn. I went up several times to my neighbor on the fifth floor, but it was to no avail, the family is dysfunctional and to repair their drain tank toilets are not collected (we have everything new and repaired) they are not allowed into the apartment. My question is - will it help if I put a heater on my neighbor's pipe? or how to remove condensate from pipes? I think it can stick around the pipe with plasticine and make a drain out of it into a separate container, although it may not hold on cold pipe

02-03-2015: Dr. Lom

To begin with, you should contact the operating organization. She should be more interested than you in ensuring that water does not drain uselessly into the sewer.
Further, it is possible, in principle, to insulate the riser, but not only with a neighbor from above, but also in your apartment, although it is much better to eliminate the cause of condensate. As a temporary measure, you can put a clamp on the pipe and fix a tin or plastic of the appropriate shape with it so that condensate flows from it into a separate container. Plasticine is unlikely to help here.

08-06-2015: Egor

Good day!
I have a problem: a leak at the junction on the drain between the cast-iron sewer pipe and the plastic corrugation. There are suspicions that the rubber transitional cuff does not hold. I bought a new set of corrugations with a cuff, but the leak at the junction with cast iron continues. What to do with this leak?

08-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Look at the article "How to join plastic and cast-iron sewer pipes", it describes possible options.

09-06-2015: Igor

Good day!
Tell me how to tightly drown out the cast-iron outlet of the sewer under the sink? I need to lay it with tiles (after cutting it flush with a grinder). The problem is that the drain goes inside the concrete wall, and we have one sewer pipe for 2 apartments, the neighbors use the sink actively) I don’t use this drain and I want to remove it, but I can’t figure out how to do it ...
Must be very secure. Welding? Stub? It will not work to pour concrete, the neighbors have a 15-20 cm tap into a common pipe. Of course, I can carefully hammer a wooden wedge with sealant or epoxy, but what will happen later when the piece of wood rots and the neighbors once again clog their bath?

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

In fact, the installation of one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards, so you'd better contact the operating organization with a request to redo the sewer wiring. If the pipe is really clogged, then it will have to be cleaned and possibly from outside your apartment.

09-06-2015: Igor

What problems I may have I represent.
JEC won't help! This design feature"Khrushchob" series 1-510. Everyone is happy with our unbearable series, but this is a general channel. pipe with neighbors just got me!
Still, answer my specific question, the more it will not oblige you with anything: What would you drown out
an old (50 years old) cast-iron branch with a diameter of about 50. The condition of the pipe is good. Gas welding? Metal plug for solution? The water in my outlet will be once every six months, when the neighbors have another blockage. The cable from their drain will not pass into my plug and there is simply nothing to clean from my side.

09-06-2015: Dr. Lom

If the water in your outlet is once every six months, then a wooden chop will last for 20-30 years, maybe more. You can try to put a plastic plug with an appropriate seal. And to cook cast iron, and even hermetically, is not an easy task.

17-06-2015: Valentine

Good afternoon! Please tell me how you can seal or seal a crack in a cast-iron drain pipe ... you can crawl up to the crack from the inside + humid environment?

17-06-2015: Dr. Lom

The article just describes the possible options and in particular cold welding. There is no objection to cold welding if there is time for it to harden.

17-06-2015: Vasya

Good evening! Cleaned out debris today drain pipe in the bathroom with a sanitary cable (9 mm), after which a leak was found on the pipe from below (the house is over 40 years old, “Khrushchev”). It is dangerous to open water in the bathroom itself and the sink, in the kitchen - the water drips specifically, and, at odd hours, dissatisfied neighbors from below will come ... The plumber from the house management, who came about five hours after the call, said that it was necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the faucet in the kitchen. Cast iron - on plastic. And - at our expense. And I have two questions for you. Firstly, is it at our expense, and not at the expense of the Criminal Code and thanks to regular deductions for overhaul, should work be done to replace the pipe (maybe you know about this?)? And, secondly, is the plumber right that it is necessary to change the pipe from the toilet to the kitchen, and is it really possible to do it yourself, without paying for the services of this friend from Uzbekistan? Thanks in advance for your replies!

18-06-2015: Dr. Lom

Your questions are valid and not new. Theoretically, you can demand from the Criminal Code not only the replacement of a leaky pipe, but also the cleaning of a clogged sewer, and not do it yourself. And in life, at best, they will put a clamp on a leaking pipe and offer you to wait a few years or decades before overhaul. And the fact that a plumber from the Criminal Code offered you to change the pipe at your expense is nothing more than the use of your official position. In the sense that for such work you can call any plumber from outside or even do it yourself. There is nothing difficult in replacing a pipe section from cast iron to plastic; it is not necessary to change the entire pipe to the riser, although it is desirable. Just in case, look at the "Mixed Sewer" section.

18-08-2015: novel

Good night!
If you don't help, just break boxes and change pipes)))
The upper floor of the stalinka, 5 years ago, did a complete renovation, the pipe was replaced with plastic 110, through the cross in the ceiling it joins with the old cast-iron one (of course, through a rubber coupling). Everything was ok. The neighbor downstairs made repairs in his toilet (didn’t change the pipes) and ... it started when I had a large drain pressure, it drips ... then it doesn’t drip for half a year, then it drips again for 2 days, then again it doesn’t drip for a month - another. But if we are not long time(village for a week) upon arrival, he begins to drip heavily. The cross includes a toilet drain and a drain from the bath-sink-washer. I examined the crosspiece - there are no cracks, I smeared it with sealant as best I could, it didn’t leak for several months, then again. I've already broken my head on the forums. The dudes from the offices and from Avito...can't tell. The neighbor screams, let's break (I have a cross in the ceiling immured). HELP WITH ADVICE!!

18-08-2015: Dr. Lom

Roman, I don’t think I can reassure you and suggest an option without dismantling the boxes. First, you never found the leak, and this is very important. It follows from your description that the crosspiece is new, plastic, and, as I understand it, was subsequently filled with a screed. The junction of a plastic cross with a cast-iron pipe is located in the ceiling. Also, from your description of the problem, it can be concluded that the maximum leakage occurs when you use the bathroom. In this regard, it is important to know exactly where the neighbor is dripping. It may not always drip at the place of leakage, often water penetrates through the ceiling where it is easiest to do it - at the place where the pipes pass through the ceiling, or at the lowest point of the ceiling, resulting from the deflection of the ceiling.
In addition, it is possible that the ceiling has rotted water pipe, but at the same time, water still flows down the sewer.
And finally, there are no reliable ways to eliminate the leakage of sewer pipes from the inside; as a rule, the leak is eliminated from the outside.

23-08-2015: Olga

firstly, thank you very much for your work. now, secondly, in the answer of 06/09/2015 you wrote: "In fact, the installation of one outlet for 2 apartments is prohibited by modern standards" - if it doesn’t make it difficult for you, you really need a link in which document there is such a ban. the issue of repairing the cast-iron sewerage of the early 50s is being resolved, and it seems that we have just such a tap for 2 apartments. how is it generally correct to call it - is it exactly "removal" as a construction term? I will be very grateful for the answer.

24-08-2015: Dr. Lom

1. What is a branch, riser, release - you can see in the article "Calculation internal sewerage. Theoretical background", there is not only a description but also a picture for a better understanding.
2. According to SNiP 2.04.01-85 * p.17.5: "Connect sanitary appliances located in different apartments on the same floor, one branch pipeline is not allowed. "But perhaps by branch pipeline you meant a riser.
3. Repair of sewerage, made according to the old standards, is not always a simple matter. See for example the article "Repair of sewerage in Stalin".

28-09-2015: glory

Hello

28-09-2015: glory

I changed pipes from cast iron to plastic, and fell apart cast iron pipe, that is, the cup of the pipe is completely, now I can’t put the pipe at 110, when the unit is flushed, everything flows. And the pipe can’t be changed, it goes to the riser. What to do

28-09-2015: glory

That is, the cuff has nothing to hold on to

28-09-2015: Dr. Lom

It looks like you will have to change the tee or cross, after discussing this with your neighbors. More details in the article "How to disassemble a cast-iron sewer riser (part 1)". I don't know of any other reliable way.

06-11-2015: Evgenia

good evening, help with advice. The sewer riser is leaking, which is located in the shaft in the wall. The house is 5 floors. I'm on the second. They said that part of the pipe needs to be changed. everything. is it cast iron and I think it’s a lot of weight?

08-11-2015: Dr. Lom

Theoretically, the pipes should be attached to the walls and thus the load from the pipes should be transferred to the walls. In this case, there is nothing wrong with replacing part of the pipe. But how things are in your house, I do not know.

27-02-2016: Dmitriy

Hello! It's just a disaster in our apartment - we can't get rid of the intense sewer smell in the bathroom. Smells from the can area. riser, cast-iron. Everything was disconnected from the riser, in all branches of the cross there are PVC corners and plugs. All joints were redone, both on the riser itself (chasing) and on the bends (cuff, sealant). Now nothing is flowing, the smell is the same .. the plumbers shrug. I have two questions: 1. Is it possible to replace the can riser with the same cast-iron one in one apartment of a multi-storey building, is there a neighbor from above and neighbors from below? 2. How to clean the outside of the riser from factory bitumen before applying a layer of liquid rubber to the riser (exclude the option of microcracks), neither a brush, nor a solvent, nor a sandpaper help much? Thank you. To understand the scale of the disaster, we made repairs in the apartment, and we have not been able to live in it for almost half a year. Zhekovsky plumbers, not knowing what to do, close their eyes and say that there is no smell.

27-02-2016: Dr. Lom

Perhaps you are digging in the wrong direction. The fact is that often the cause of the appearance bad smell is the failure of water seals and the likelihood of this is quite high if your neighbor from above removed the ventilation part of the riser and installed a non-return air valve instead.
For starters, look at the article "Unpleasant smell in the bathroom or toilet. Causes of occurrence, how to get rid of it."

31-03-2016: Sergei

Good day! Help advice. The bathroom has recently been renovated and replaced. cast iron sewer 100 for plastic. After 6 months, plumbers from the house came and said that I was "heating" the basement (I live on the first floor). They claim that when joining plastic with cast iron, I damaged the cast iron and to fix the problem they want to change the riser to the very basement, and for this it is necessary to hammer the tile and concrete around the cast iron with a perforator, thereby breaking my repair. I didn't let them do it. And by the way, everything is dry behind my riser. After my "investigation" it turned out that the same hole in the riser is located, so to speak, at the very ceiling of the basement, drowning from the bottom of my apartment. Please tell me if it is possible to carry out work on the dismantling of a cast-iron pipe from the basement, so to speak from the bottom up, and not as they offer me. And will it be possible to dock my pipe with the basement pipe from below (in order not to break anything in my bathroom)?

01-04-2016: Dr. Lom

It is possible that during the repair you really damaged the cast-iron pipe below your outlet and the hole that you found in the basement may not be the only one. In this regard, for a quality repair, in particular, to replace the pipe in the floor and properly seal the joints, it will be necessary to break the floor. However, this would still have to be done, even if the cause of the leak was not your repair.

In general, basement flooding can cause additional uneven subsidence of the base and the consequences can be much worse than tiles broken around the riser.

29-05-2016: Olesya

Hello, today I found a hole in the cast iron sewer pipe in the toilet. The pipes are about 50 years old. The only piece of pipe that has not been changed fits the riser and connects the toilet drain to it. The hole is even, the size of a 50 kopeck coin. Its edges are strong, the entire section of the pipe is also strong. Is it possible to close it with cold welding, as you advised many, and what caused the formation of a hole?

29-05-2016: Dr. Lom

In fact, the diameter of the hole is large enough and I would advise you to put a clamp. However, I don’t know where exactly you have a hole, perhaps cold welding will withstand all possible loads. Why is there a hole in the pipe? large diameter, I don’t know, I can assume that this is somehow connected with a factory defect or unforeseen point loads on the pipe.

10-06-2016: Olga

Good day! Your advice is very much needed. A crack is oozing in a cast-iron horizontal drain pipe (kitchen sink-bathroom-washbasin). How can you solve this problem yourself? If using two-component products, do I need to scrape the paint down to the metal? I am attaching a photo. Sorry about the pipe. Tenants live there, the attitude is appropriate. They will repair it themselves, because of the remoteness I cannot control the work. P.S. This crack did not form in one or two days? Apparently, it is necessary at least sometimes to paint the pipes and keep everything dry? Thank you in advance. Photo http://prntscr.com/bekbfn

10-06-2016: Dr. Lom

In fact, judging by the photograph, there is not one crack (part of the bell is missing, another part is chipped off) and the best option it would be to completely change the pipes. Nevertheless, you can try to seal them, but at the same time you do not need to use the sewer for at least a few hours. And the crack was formed not because the pipes were not painted and wet (they are always not painted and wet inside), but for other reasons, which, however, make no sense to discuss here.

15-06-2016: Olga

Thank you very much!
If glued, then as you advise in your article? Do you need to peel off the paint around?
Could it really be that horror that you reported about (part of the bell is missing, another part is broken off) could exist from the moment the house was commissioned (more than 30 years)? And what is surprising, there has never been a leak ... It turns out that instead of a normal pipe, the builders put some kind of stub, and covered up the holes? V Soviet times so they handed over at home ... I'm in shock ...
Of course, as soon as possible, you need to change the pipes.
In the meantime, temporarily, at least somehow stick.
Still, the cause of the crack is the physical wear of the metal?

15-06-2016: Olga

Sorry, after.
You write "them to seal." Does it mean that there are several leaks? I see only one crack in the photo ... Can you tell me which piece of pipe should be glued?

15-06-2016: Dr. Lom

The photo I'm judging by is not very high quality, so of course I could be wrong. Nevertheless, I see in the photo a coupling to the right of the tee, in which on the right socket there is a longitudinal and transverse crack on top and on the left socket there are several cracks on the side. Moreover, by the nature of the cracks, it can be assumed that a part of the left socket has already been chipped off, i.e. there are cracks on the bottom and it just lies on the screed. As for the missing part of the bell, here I hastened, taking the colored mortar with which the joints were sealed for part of the bell.

The cause of cracks may be factory defects, which were subjected to heavy loads during installation or operation.

I judge the presence of a crack only by the presence of rust, i.e. if there is rust, then there is a crack or a leaky joint. Whether this crack allows water to pass through is a completely different question. For example, cracks on the top of the right socket of the coupling most likely do not allow water to pass through. Nevertheless, these are cracks and over time they will only increase until the coupling crumbles completely. It is desirable to remove paint and rust before sealing cracks.

04-07-2016: Daria

I am a resident of the 9th floor, neighbors come from the 8th floor and say that we drown them, the husband goes down there one drop flows down the cast-iron pipe, tells them this is condensate, didn’t you think? time passes, it’s dry in our bathroom, everything except the sewerage has been replaced, a neighbor comes from the 5th floor and says you drown us, they called the locksmith of the management company, he walked along the riser, returned to us and says you need to change the kitchen-bath-sewer branch it drowns everyone, call a paid master let him replace it. I called three at the same time, everyone was advised to contact the manager, as she should serve the sewer. The asking price was set at 10,000. I have an expensive repair in the bathroom from the previous owners .. what should I do? if my apartment is dry!!! my husband and I went down to the 7th floor - the neighbors are dry, there are no complaints, on the 6th floor in the toilet it runs along the pipe and along the wall, which drowns as much as 5th floor.

04-07-2016: Dr. Lom

Daria. Your comment is very emotional, but it is still impossible to determine the cause of the leak and complaints from neighbors down the riser.

And since you inattentively read the materials of the site, you will have to resolve all issues with a representative of the Criminal Code. All the best.

04-08-2016: Evgeniy

Hello help advice.
The situation is like this 9-storey panel house 4th floor shared bathroom, changed the sewerage from the bathtub and washbasin to plastic, the tee to which the toilet is connected remained cast iron, but there was a snag. When the plumber was changing the pipes, I noticed how he loosened it a little, about 1-2 mm didn’t say anything, everything installed the money, took it and left, I thought it was normal,
But now I have doubts about whether this is normal or not. Everything works fine, it seems to be leaking nowhere. Help with advice, if this is bad, what action should be taken? and can it be fixed somehow? or in
there is nothing to worry about and I'm just an alarmist?

04-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In general, if nothing flows anywhere, and even more so there are no cracks, chips or other noticeable damage, then everything is fine. However, if in doubt, ask an upstairs neighbor to flush a couple of buckets of water down the toilet to put maximum stress on the riser. If there are no leaks, then I think everything is fine.

15-08-2016: Johnn

Hello need help.
Under the apartment (wooden floor, which once collapsed) from the neighbors, I learned that the knee of the sewer riser is flowing.
the knee is cast iron, on the outside there is a hole about the size of a matchbox. A rubber sheet was attached to the hole with a wire. How to get rid of the leak forever and with what ?? (it is not possible to completely encircle or wrap the knee.

16-08-2016: Dr. Lom

In your case, the most reliable way is a knee replacement, everything else is half measures. Alternatively, you can try to weld the overlay, if possible.

27-08-2016: Alexei

Hello! I have such a problem; began to change cast-iron pipes to plastic ones in the apartment due to leaks wherever possible and found what, at the entrance there is a crack along the entire length of the riser! The nuance is that the crack runs along the bottom of the pipe, and the pipe itself is below the floor level ((! The question is how can this crack be repaired from the inside of the pipe so that plastic can be inserted there later ???

28-08-2016: Dr. Lom

If the pipes are in such a deplorable state, then it is better to replace them completely, including the tee or cross in the ceiling. Everything else is half measures.

27-09-2016: Julia

Hello! Please tell me how you can close a crack 20 cm long (it seems to be not hollow) in a cast-iron sewer parking lot, access to it is open only from above, as it is covered with tiles in front, we live on the last 5th floor, a strong smell due to cracks.

27-09-2016: Dr. Lom

You will most likely have to knock down the tiles to gain access to the pipe. I do not know of any other reliable methods other than those described in this article.

13-10-2016: Oleg

Hello! Tell me the proportion of the polymer cement solution (cement + water + PVA glue), which is described in the article.

13-10-2016: Dr. Lom

It depends on the consistency of the glue and how strong the solution you want to end up with. Sometimes, when PVA glue is completely liquid, then water can not be added at all. Well, if approximately, then for one part of water with glue (or just glue) two or three parts of cement, i.e. one to two or three.

12-11-2016: Daria

Good day! My mom moved into an apartment where the riser was painted with gray paint (the kind you paint over rust). For a while, everything was fine. But, probably after six months, streaks began to appear under a layer of gray paint (the paint swelled and there was something liquid inside). Here and there Mom peeled off those layers of paint left behind from the cast-iron sewer pipe and found that under them there was only foul-smelling water and metal. Now there are many long rusty smudges along the entire length of the pipe. There are no leaks on the pipe at the joints. I heard somewhere that sewer pipes made of cast iron must be coated with something before painting. I have an assumption that the previous tenants somehow removed the protective coating from the cast-iron pipe, and then painted it aesthetically - gray paint. Tell me, please, how to properly and, most importantly, how to restore the coating of a cast-iron vertical riser in order to put it in order?

12-11-2016: Dr. Lom

As a rule, cast-iron risers are processed either with bituminous varnish (Kuzbass varnish). Before application, it is desirable to clean the riser from rust and condensate.

23-03-2017: Katia

How can you seal up a cold water leak at the junction between a plastic pipe and cast iron. The cast-iron pipe has rusted to nothing. They called the plumber from the house, he put a clamp on rubber and wire, gave a list of what to buy. The apartment is rented, not our owner does not itch. We have a plastic pipe, and under us lives a granny who has not been changed and she is not going to change. Please tell me what you can fix because there is no strength to twist the towels. It leaks terribly.please

23-03-2017: Dr. Lom

Unfortunately, I don’t know of any other methods other than those outlined in the article and in the comments. See also the article "How to dock plastic and cast iron sewer pipes."

11-01-2018: valentine

WHAT CAN YOU FINISH THE SLOT UNDER THE TEE WIDTH 1MM LENGTH 9CM WINDING GAUGE NOT FOR WHAT CAN A = IMPREGNATE WITH LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND SHUT IT INTO THE SLIT ADVICE I DO NOT KNOW THE PROPORTIONS OF LIQUID GLASS WITH CEMENT AND WHETHER IT IS NECESSARY TO ADD WATER HELP WITH GOOD ADVICE

02-03-2018: Svetlana

Good afternoon, Please advise, the last fifth floor, I replaced the background pipe from cast iron to plastic, but from the ceiling (roof, so to speak), to the connection with the plastic pipe, there was a piece of cast iron 10 centimeters, I recently discovered that the pipe is wet, I'm going to make repairs to put a new one tiles, well, sew up the fan pipe, and there is moisture, what to do? It seems to me that the whole point is in this remaining small piece of an old cast-iron pipe, maybe there is a way to process it with something or cover it in some way so that there is no moisture on the entire pipe, Please tell me,

02-03-2018: Dr. Lom

I can assume that this is condensate, which often happens on cast-iron pipes in winter. Now you are unlikely to get rid of it, and in the warm season you can glue the remaining piece of pipe with some kind of heat-insulating material. It is not possible to completely get rid of condensate, but it will be much less. However, condensation is also possible on the exhaust part of the plastic pipe.

18-08-2018: Stanislav

Hello, such a problem. When dismantling the old cast-iron knee of the toilet, the bowl of the riser was damaged - a hole in the bottom of the cup somewhere from 5 kopecks. How can you fix it.

18-08-2018: Dr. Lom

As an option, I can offer the following: a rubber "patch" with a diameter of 2 cm more than the diameter of the hole (preferably glued), then a bandage of 5-7 layers is wound and impregnated with epoxy.

14-12-2018: Egorych

Hello!
In the toilet, a cast-iron coupling began to leak, connecting 2 vertical pipes of the riser.
I wrapped it in 3-5 layers with a bandage and a solution of tile adhesive (Ceresit).
In the place of my winding, strong condensate is observed during the morning and evening flows of water from the neighbors (I have a 2nd floor in a 9-story building).
What to do? Wrap a few more layers of bandage with a solution?

14-12-2018: Dr. Lom

Generally, bandage and tile adhesive are not waterproofing materials, so water may continue to ooze after adding several layers of bandage with mortar.
The most reliable option in this case is to call plumbers, but as a temporary measure - bandage with wire or bandage with epoxy.



There are several ways to help fix this problem. The choice of method for repairing the system is influenced by the size of the defect, the strength of the pipeline and the presence of longitudinal cracks, as well as chipping.

If your pipe joints are leaking, follow these steps:

• turn off the sewage system during repair work;
• dry the pipe joints with a rag or hair dryer;
• remove cement from joints;
• caulk the gap between the nozzles with linen plumbing winding;
• make a solution of police cement and PVA glue;
• coat the crack at the junction with a solution, there should be several layers;
• do not use the sewer for a day.

Instead of a solution of police cement and PVA glue, you can use a special silicone sealant, then you will have to not use the sewage system for only three hours. You can also use baby clay, epoxy, raw rubber, or waterproof glue to lubricate the joints.

If the crack is in the cast-iron sewer pipe, then it is imperative to talk with the neighbors in order to implement a comprehensive repair and avoid further breakdowns in the sewage system.

You can close the crack with:

• - eliminates leaks in small holes (important: use only short wooden wedges, as long ones will create obstacles inside the fittings), drive in this chop at the breakage point, then wrap the pipeline with gauze and impregnate with epoxy;
• several layers of gauze - wrap the pipeline with gauze, if the leak is small, soak the gauze with epoxy or cement, apply gauze to the problem area, completely wrapping it to the state of a cocoon, wait a day until the cement dries;
• use a rubber bandage to temporarily fix the breakage, be sure to make 20 tight turns over the bandage with copper or aluminum wire;
• a special clamp to stop any leaks (note: for nozzles with a diameter of 5 cm you will need a clamp, which will cost up to $ 8), wrap a gasket around the hole, cover the rubber with a clamp and tighten it;
• - it helps if the hole is very large, cut the rubber gasket to the size of the coupling, put it on and tighten it.

If a longitudinal crack or a small chip has formed, then it will be more difficult to repair them.

If the breakdown is in the exhaust pipe of the riser, then the reason for this situation is the icing of the inside of the pipe during the cold season. Simply put, the pipeline froze internally due to the expansion of the frozen water. To fix this problem, use a sealant. You will need:

1. Widen the crack by making a recess for the sealant.
2. Degrease the damaged area.
3. Dry the broken area.
4. Apply silicone sealant.
5. Thermally insulate the pipeline in order to avoid further breakdowns, the formation of longitudinal cracks and chips.

If your home has a strong unpleasant odor, then more drastic action will be required. In order to eliminate chips, use a special two-component adhesive (" cold welding"). Spread the leak with this glue, let it harden well, then sand it.

Sewage from cast-iron pipes is installed in most multi-storey buildings of the Soviet construction. Maintenance and even more so, the planned repair of these systems is rarely done by anyone. Therefore, the risk that the pipes will become unusable and may leak increases every year.

Many residents do not wait emergency and change the cast-iron pipeline to. Those who do not have such an opportunity use the old and hope for the best. If the pipe leaked at the junction or a crack appeared on it, do not rush to panic. You can fix this kind of problem yourself, without replacing the entire pipeline or part of it.

Repair of a cast-iron sewer pipe

A small leak can be repaired with special clamps or repair sleeves. To do this, you need to buy a clamp of a suitable diameter in any hardware store, put it on the pipe in the right place and tighten it. As an alternative to a purchased clamp, a piece of rubber is quite suitable, which you need to wrap around the leak and tighten it with wire. Eliminating the breakdown in this way takes a few minutes.

The next method, using cement, takes more time and the pipeline can be used only after the cement has hardened (about a day). So, you need to stock up on cement and bandage. The bandage is cut into equal parts, about 40-50 cm long, and the cement is diluted in water or liquid glass.

Next, the bandage is lowered into the prepared solution and, after it is well saturated, they are wrapped around the damaged area and sprinkled with dry cement. This work is repeated until a small “cocoon” is formed on the pipe, which can be treated with liquid glass (silicate glue) from above. Also, instead of cement, you can take epoxy resin, all stages of work will be the same.

A small crack can also be sealed with ready-made silicone-based sealants. To do this, it is necessary to slightly expand the damage, giving it a ∨-shaped shape. Then clean, degrease and dry. After that, pour the sealant into the crack, wait for it to dry and you can use the sewer.

A high-quality sealant can be prepared independently by mixing 3 parts of copper oxide with two parts of phosphoric acid. This mixture should be applied to a fat-free surface immediately after preparation, as it hardens very quickly.

Also, as a patch, you can use a special mixture - "cold welding". Stages of work: cleaning and degreasing the repaired area, applying a "patch" and a rubber seal over it.

How to seal the joint of a cast-iron pipe

If the sewer pipe leaked at the junction, then this situation can be corrected as follows:

1. Mint - remove the remnants of cement and tow.
2. Dry with a hair dryer and remove dirt.
3. Stuff the linen plumbing winding tightly into the resulting gap.
4. With an aqueous solution, with polymer cement and PVA glue, coat the joint several times.
5. After 24 hours, the sewer can be used.

If you use silicone sealant instead of flax and mortar, then the system can be used much earlier.

On a note!

Do not close up cracks and holes with improvised means: plasticine, chewing gum, glue and other things. All this will fix the problem, but for a short time. Also, do not hammer chopsticks into the holes, since cast iron is a brittle material and this can lead to even more damage.

In conclusion, I would like to note that if a crack appeared in one place of the pipe, it is possible that soon the same thing will happen in another. And all these patches, no matter how high-quality they may seem, are a temporary fix for the problem. Therefore, it is better to start new ones immediately, by contacting specialists or on your own. Otherwise, the next leak can lead not only to minor repairs cast-iron pipes, but also large-scale flooding and subsequent repair of a neighbor's apartment.

Video: How to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe

Any engineering systems are subject to periodic breakdowns. Separately, it is worth highlighting accidents in heating systems, since there is a risk not only of being left without heat supply, but also of flooding the premises. To prevent the onset of sad consequences, it is necessary to eliminate the leak in the heating pipe as quickly as possible. To repair correctly, you should know the basic ways to solve the problem with various scales of damage.

Causes and consequences of accidents

The vast majority of heating systems are made using metal pipes. For a long time, only they were considered suitable for supplying a coolant heated to high temperatures. Steel pipes, traditionally used in heating systems, are susceptible to corrosion from exposure to water and steam. Progressive corrosion damage over time can lead to small leaks that, if not properly repaired, can lead to major leaks.

The scale of the consequences can be very different. At best, moisture will accumulate in the damaged area. When the hole expands, water may begin to drip, you will have to substitute a basin or other container under the leak. With more extensive damage, the formation of a powerful flow of hot coolant is not excluded, threatening not only flooding, but also burns.

How to fix a crack in a cast iron sewer pipe

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the pipes at the time of the seasonal start of the heating system. According to statistics, leakage occurs most often during this period. This is due to the application of high pressure. The absence of visual manifestations of corrosion centers contributes to the occurrence of a leak.

It is recommended to carry out urgent repairs if even slight signs of possible problems appear. Careful attention to the condition of the pipelines will allow you to avoid leaks and wait without incident for a convenient moment to replace the damaged section with a new one.

Not immune from leaks and modern plastic pipes, which are now sometimes used in heating systems. And leaks can occur not only at the joints. There are cases when, by mistake, negligence or other reasons, pipes were purchased, designed for cold water. It is quite clear that for a long time such a material will not be able to resist the elevated temperature of the coolant.

Damage to plastic pipes can be even more dangerous. If on metal pipes usually moisture begins to accumulate first, then the plastic inflates, it breaks, and large volumes of water immediately enter the room.

Leak elimination technique

After finding the location of the leak, it is necessary to determine the extent of the problem that has arisen and decide on a way to eliminate it. It should be noted that most of the proposed options can only be considered as temporary measures to postpone overhaul heating systems until a convenient moment.

If it is possible to call a qualified specialist to immediately replace the damaged area with a new one, this method should be chosen. No improvised sealing can give a 100% guarantee of protection against repeated leakage and flooding.

In most cases, self-liquidation of detected leaks can be dispensed with without turning off the coolant supply. However, this is only true for minor damage. In case of a serious accident, when water does not just flow, but gushing from the pipe, it is impossible to do without turning off the heating.

repair of plastic pipes / repair of plastic pipes

It is better to decide in advance what to do if the heating pipe has flowed. A clear plan will help avoid panic and minimize damage.

If a pipe break occurs in an apartment building with central heating, you will have to contact a specialist from the operating organization to turn off the system. In this case, independent repair work does not make sense. One can only try to make every effort to minimize the negative consequences of flooding while waiting for the arrival of the repair team. In such a situation, the best choice would be to replace the damaged area with specialists.

Repair work

Typically, a leak in the pipe body occurs when there is an undetected manufacturing defect. The walls of the heating pipes are quite thick. The occurrence of through corrosion in a well-made pipe is possible after many decades of operation. However, even with strict control, there is a possibility of installing defective pipes with shells and an underestimation of the wall thickness.

There is a risk of encountering unfair actions of organizations that purchase materials for the repair or replacement of heating pipelines. In pursuit of profit can be acquired Consumables that do not meet the requirements normative documents, which significantly increases the risk of accidents during the subsequent operation of the heating system.

Local damage to the tube is called a fistula. Eliminating the consequences of its occurrence is usually not associated with large labor costs. There are two ways to seal the damaged area: mechanical and chemical.

Mechanical termination

The most popular practice was to seal the hole with a rubber gasket. Depending on the size of the fistula, various options are used.

A small hole can be securely sealed with a metal self-tapping screw with a rubber seal placed under the cap. No need to make the elastic pad yourself, ready-made self-tapping screws with a sealant can be purchased at most hardware stores.

COLD WELDING! HOW TO USE? Application example

Repair is carried out in accordance with the following algorithm:

• The surface of the pipe is cleaned from traces of corrosion with a file or an angle grinder.
• A pilot hole for a self-tapping screw is drilled at the location of the fistula.
• The hardware is screwed in with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

Instead of a self-tapping screw, you can also use a screw, but then you will need to make a rubber gasket for the head and thread the hole made at the site of the fistula. This approach makes sense if the defect in the pipe slightly exceeds the diameter of the working part of the self-tapping screw.

A rubber gasket can be applied to medium and large holes and pulled with a clamp. On sale there are ready-made clamps with rubber inserts. If you could not find them, any piece of dense and sufficiently elastic sheet rubber will do, for example, from a car or bicycle tube, a medical tourniquet to stop arterial bleeding. The patch is pressed against the previously cleaned pipe with one or more clamps. Suitable for universal hose clamps.

To increase the reliability of sealing larger fistulas, wide clamps in the form of clips can be used. They are made of sheet steel and are tightened with a few screws. This method is ideal for cracks oriented along the pipe axis. The same clips are also used in the case of the formation of several fistulas at a short distance from each other.

Glue Cold welding DIAMOND Universal 58g

Even more reliable sealing can be achieved if you purchase cast metal bandages with elastic pads. They are detachable clamps that are put on the pipe. The mating parts of the structure are pulled together by screws. The bandages are highly rigid, do not deform when tightened, and therefore provide a tighter fit of the rubber insert to the pipe surface.

A good alternative solution is the use of self-vulcanizing adhesive tape. This versatile product is great for emergency pipe sealing. The advantage of this product lies not only in the reliable isolation of the damaged area, but also the possibility of using it in hard-to-reach places. Rubber gasket can only be applied to a flat section of the pipe, and special tape can be used on bends, shoulders, tees and elbows. The way to use it is quite simple:

• The surface of the pipe must be cleaned and degreased.
• Separate tape from protective film, press firmly against the pipe and wind, stretching in the longitudinal direction.

Repair of major damage is carried out in a fundamentally different way. A conical wooden chop is hammered into the fistula opening. This can be done under the pressure of water with the necessary precautions. It may not be possible to stop the flow completely. However, this option is often the only possible way to reduce the consequences of flooding in case of strong coolant breakthroughs while waiting for repairmen.

A similar method is used to repair major damage if it is impossible to promptly replace the pipe. To close a hole in a heating pipe, it is necessary to turn off the coolant supply, drill the fistula to the nearest larger diameter and hammer a metal chop into it. The protruding part of the chop is scalded in a circle by electric welding. This repair method is considered quite reliable and durable, therefore it sometimes acts as an alternative to replacing the damaged area.

Chemical sealing

If a heating pipe is leaking, it will not be possible to cover the hole with the first glue that comes across. Currently, a wide range of sealants are produced to eliminate leaks, which can be used on both metal and plastic pipes. Silicone-based formulations have earned the greatest popularity. They are characterized by a high degree of adhesion and resistance to high temperatures.

Not any silicone sealant is suitable for repairing heating pipelines. You should carefully read the instructions for use on the package.

The strength of the protective layer can be significantly increased if additional reinforcement is used with a special fiberglass mesh tape called sickle.

Repair is carried out in the following sequence:

Curing the composition will require from several hours to a day. To increase the reliability of sealing after complete hardening, the repaired area can be further tightened with a clamp with a rubber gasket.

It is not recommended to use two-component compositions of the so-called cold welding for the repair of heating pipes. Despite the claims of manufacturers, such substances are not very reliable. Use of homemade sealants and other folk remedies sealing leaks is strictly not allowed. In the heating system, the coolant is heated to a very high temperature and is under pressure. Only specially designed compounds can provide effective sealing in such difficult conditions.

The ability to quickly eliminate a leak in the heating system will significantly reduce the damage from a breakdown. Don't rely on people's councils , since there are reliable and repeatedly proven methods for sealing damaged pipes. It should always be remembered that in the vast majority of cases, the result of repair work is temporary. To prevent a recurrence of the accident, it is recommended to replace the defective section of the pipe with a new one as soon as possible.

Need a repair or broken cast iron pipe? This article details how to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe!

The use of cast iron sewer pipes is now almost complete, but in many apartments or houses they are still working out their service life. Durability, reliability and lack of noise still attract users, apartment buildings of the old buildings, cast-iron risers are installed almost everywhere. Replacing them is difficult, because for this it is necessary to completely replace the entire riser. It is easier to solve local problems that may arise during operation. Consider how to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe and how it is usually done.

Causes of cracks

There are two main reasons for the occurrence of cracks or fistulas in cast iron pipes:

• negligence of installers;
• brittleness of cast iron as a material.

Poor sealing of the joints of sewer products often causes leaks. They occur both on old connections and on transitions from cast iron to plastic pipes, if standard adapters were not used. Cement mortar was used to seal the sockets, and mixing ratio errors could cause leaks in weak areas over time. In such situations, it is easiest to repair cast-iron sewer pipes.

If a crack or hole has formed in the drain, the only cause can be mechanical impact - impact, damage received during unskilled installation or repair work. Many users perform some actions with their own hands.

Lack of professional training and a poor understanding of the properties of cast iron do not allow them to repair the cast iron sewer pipe properly. Careless actions, use of conventional hammers instead rubber mallets, falling pipes - from all these influences, cast-iron pipes burst and fail. Often cracks go unnoticed, or simply negligent plumbers install a product that is obviously defective in the hope that everything will work out somehow. Sewerage is a non-pressure system, so cracked elements are not detected immediately, sometimes after several years of operation.

There is another possible reason for the formation of holes - corrosion. A poor-quality casting with cavities or shells can rust through, especially if the drain system has been in operation for a very long time.

Ways to solve the problem

The most correct answer to the question - how to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe - will be to replace the section that has failed. However, this option is not always available, especially for residents of the lower floors. In most cases, you will have to sort out the entire riser, or perform a partial replacement with cutting and removing the problem area. It is impossible to use sewerage and water supply for the entire duration of the work, which is extremely inconvenient for all neighbors and very difficult to organize. Therefore, they usually prefer to temporarily plug the hole with something until it becomes possible to more quality repair. If the work is done carefully and efficiently, the drain system can serve for many more years without increasing the problem.

Consider how to repair a cast-iron sewer pipe without replacing the problem area:

1. The simplest, but quite effective way- installation of a rubber pad pressed to the crack with a clamp. A patch is cut out of a piece of soft rubber, which is applied to the crack and pressed with a standard or homemade clamp. It is recommended to use materials that are not subject to corrosion - nylon or copper.
2. Installation of a homemade bandage from a bandage impregnated with cement mortar. This method is more complicated and requires stopping the sewer for about a day, so it is used much less frequently. Most often they are used when it is impossible to do more simple methods. When creating a solution, water can be replaced with glue (liquid glass), and instead of a bandage, take old tights.
3. Use of a repair sleeve. Basically, it's a modified way to repair a pipe with a clamp and rubber. The coupling consists of two halves, completely enclosing a certain section of the element and tightened with bolts. It remains only to install a rubber gasket on the gap formed and press it with a coupling to completely seal the hole.

Cold welding

You can also mention one of the temporary (although often permanent) options - cold welding for cast iron sewer pipes. This is a two-component (most often) composition, mixed immediately before application. Before starting to cover up a crack with cold welding, the surface must be cleaned of rust and other deposits, degreased and dried. There are two types of such glue - liquid and thick mass, similar to plasticine. The first type is mixed with a hardener, and the second, before starting to close the gap, is intensively kneaded to achieve softness and elasticity of the material.

There can be quite a few ways to close a crack in a cast-iron sewer pipe. The basic principle of such a repair is to apply a fast-hardening composition to the problem area, filling the crack and applying it over a fixing bandage or clamp. New tools are constantly appearing on sale that allow you to solve the problem without calling plumbers and performing time-consuming and expensive repairs.

What materials can be used

To resolve the issue - how to plug the sewer pipe - the following materials can be used:

• rubber patch with collar;
• cement mortar;
• cold welding.

These materials and the methodology for performing the work have already been discussed above. There are other technologies for which the appropriate materials are suitable:

• self-adhesive tape. There are plastic or metallized types with a sticky layer, which are very easy to use, and the result is very effective. The only limitation is the difficulty (or impossibility) of winding some pipes with a tape due to a tight fit to the wall surface;
• silicone sealants. These are materials that are in a semi-liquid state, but harden in air and become rubber-like. They do not react at all to moisture, fill the entire cavity of the crack, and have a long service life;
• to seal the sockets use the usual linen sanitary napkin impregnated with PVA glue and cement. Before you close a hole in the sewer pipe, you need to clean it from the old filler or layers;
• a mixture of copper oxide and phosphoric acid in a ratio of 3:2. Such a composition is used to fill large holes or potholes. The solution quickly hardens, so you first need to prepare the area for application and only after that start mixing the components.

Most users try to use the simplest and most accessible materials that are at hand or on sale.

So, a cast-iron sewer pipe burst - what to do? First of all, it is necessary to carefully examine the entire surface of the riser available to the eye. Perhaps the number of cracks is greater than it seems at first glance. Then you need to decide on ways to solve the problem - change the section of the riser to plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, or seal it yourself using improvised means. If the most quick ways solutions to the issue are not suitable, you will have to go and negotiate with your neighbors for some time not to use sewerage and water supply. This is very uncomfortable, but sometimes there are no other options.