Wood mallet. How it's done, how it works, how it works

  • 16.06.2019

Wooden mallet.



12/11/2014. 8 cells

Subject: Making a mallet for carpentry.

Lesson Objectives:

- To acquaint students with the product of a mallet for carpentry.

- To consolidate skills in drawing up a work plan for products, reading a drawing, a technological map.

To develop cognitive interest, speech correction, through the implementation of a correctional task and practical work, vocabulary enrichment.

Cultivate independence, diligence and a culture of communication.

Lesson type : combined.

Equipment : notebook, textbook, workbench, marking tool, sandpaper, hacksaw, planer, drilling machine, flow charts.

Vocabulary : mallet This is a large wooden mallet.

Drilling machine, chisel.

DURING THE CLASSES

1 . Organizing time .

1. Greeting.

2. Checking the readiness for the lesson and the organization of jobs

Installation for the lesson to activate mental activity.

(decipher the proverb)

Teacher: “Without labor there is no good »

2. Actualization of basic knowledge.

Front poll:

    What tools do you need to make a mallet?

    Why can a notch become clogged with chips when planing?

    Why does the quality of all work depend on markup?

3 . Learning new material.

Teacher: We will get acquainted with the carpentry tool - a mallet, and also consolidate the knowledge of drawing up a plan for practical work of the sequence of making a carpentry mallet.

corrective exercise.

Task: Determine the longest and shortest segment.

Summing up the completed task.

Teacher: Guys, what kind of wood should mallets be made from.

(made of hard, viscous wood)

Teacher:

The strength of the workpiece, and hence the product, depends on the age and type of wood, on the place of the cut and the conditions for obtaining and storing the material. Wood species can be easily identified if you know them characteristics. For example, the presence or absence of a kernel, growth rings, sapwood width, heart-shaped rays, color, smell, texture. For the wooden parts of the tools, any hard wood that grows in our area is suitable. But when choosing a workpiece, one must remember that the wood must be damp without cracks and knots. For processing hardwood, all the tools of a carpentry workshop are used.

And so the guys use dense, viscous hardwood to make a mallet.

Let's make a plan for making a mallet. Routing.

Plan:

1. Select materials for the head and handle.

2. Mark and cut blanks. The blank for the head is taken in length for 2-3 mallets at once, so that it is more convenient to plan.

3. Cut the blank for the head to size.

4. Make a handle.

5. Mark the head, drill a blind hole and clean it with a chisel.

6. Saw off the head from the workpiece and process the ends.

7. Fit the end of the handle to the hole in the head, make a cut, make a wedge.

8.Put the head on the handle.

9.Clean the mallet.

Equipment : hacksaw, planer, drilling machine, chisel, sandpaper, product template, technological map.

Fizminutka to strengthen the muscles of the eyes.

Starting position - sitting at the desk.

    Close eyes.-3 seconds.

    Shut your eyes tightly. - 5 second.

    Perform frequent blinking. - 5 seconds.

Repeat 5-6 times.

Work in a notebook.

Exercise.

    Record the date and topic of the lesson.

    Write down a work plan.

(Today we will replenish vocabulary words, read aloud and write

4. Fixing:

1. How is the mallet head connected to the handle?

2. What is the length of the blank for the head of the mallet?

3. How do you make holes for the handle in a mallet?

Teacher: (Continued study of the topic)

Based on the consolidated and acquired knowledge, we proceed to practical work for making mallets

Briefing.

And before starting work, let's repeat the TB with the tool that you have to work with, that is, the TB with a hacksaw, the TB with a chisel, the TB with sandpaper, TB with a drilling machine, TB with a planer.

5 . Practical work.

Current teacher briefing.

Checking the quality of work.

self control .

Work analysis, analysis common mistakes and establishing their causes.

6. Summing up.

I think that today's lesson gave you the knowledge to make the main parts of a carpentry tool.

And if you, in later life, choose the profession of a carpenter, then this knowledge will be useful to you.

Evaluation of student work in class.

Mind cleaning.

Kiyanka - This is a large wooden mallet.

Drilling machine

Chisel

The product itself is a non-inertial mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-picked wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.

First, a blank is glued from the blocks under the head of the mallet. Between the details are laid plates of bog oak (veneer). Gluing was carried out at the moment "carpenter".

After the glue dries and gives more rectangular shape, with a Forstner cutter, through holes connected to each other are selected.

We clean them to an oval shape and fill them with lead shot. It can be seen from below that another flat part is glued in (the exact same one will close the cavity on top)

The ends are also glued with plugs. The blank is first shaped roughly - with a planer, and then finished on a grinder.

The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the "head" it has a rectangular section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to prevent splitting, they end with holes.

The handle is put on glue, wedged and, after the final gluing, it is polished again, this time by hand.

Finishing - colorless AQUATEX balm oil coating

A real man's rattle has learned! Her weight was 827 gr. When struck, it does not bounce on impact and, with small dimensions, has a large weight.

According to the sensations during work, it's like slapping asphalt or wet clay with your palm.

In general, the thing turned out not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish.

Do-it-yourself mallet aslan wrote on March 9th, 2018

In general, now there is a large selection of mallets, mallets purchased from white rubber are excellent for work. White because it does not leave black spots from use. I have one. I have another homemade one, made from a pillow from a truck. In general, I have a total of more than 25 hammers, sledgehammers and mallets.


But I am of the opinion that it is more pleasant to work with a beautiful instrument. And I decided to make myself a beautiful mahogany mallet. Well, why not? Someone will say that this is foppishness, but I enjoy working in the workshop. If lace on a mallet brought me pleasure, I would attach them :)

Someone will be outraged, guys, you won’t be nice to everyone. Yes, I use hand tools.

I decided to make the handle from a stick from an oak pallet, and decorate the headband with a sapele. A drawing was downloaded from the Internet

It’s not that I didn’t have anything to make a pen out of at all, but first you need to look at the pattern of wood. Someone told me that it looks like Japanese oak. I haven't been to Japan so I can't confirm.

I cut oak and sapele into a rough cut.

Sliced ​​and forward, with a planer. I have both a thickness gauge and a jointer (it’s dangerous to approach it with such a chip), but I do it for my own pleasure, don’t I?

I will have a sapele around the edges, and inside the same oak. We collect a block for glue. The handle is made on a reverse wedge, i.e. when working, it will only fit tighter. The handle is not glued.

Now we form bevels with a chisel and a planer, and also chamfer.

I decided to stick strips of veneer on the handle, otherwise it turns out somehow rustic + there is a mark from the nail. The stick is from the pallet. After knocking down the chamfers on the handle, so that it lies in the hand.

And here is our result after oil coating.

I use a mallet. It lies well in the hand, you immediately take it correctly, the hands feel the orientation of the shock part due to the rectangular handle.

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing such a product as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones, and whether there is an ideal version of the mallet.

Rubber mallet - both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of the most different forms. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the "engine" of the chisels in the process of hewing parts. This happens as follows: in one hand, the master holds the chisel, attaching it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, which he hits on the end of the chisel handle, giving it the necessary force for chiseling. The lightness of the material avoids severe injuries to the hands and spares the tool itself.

In terms of shape, there are two types of mallets - a mallet turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a mallet, which resembles a sledgehammer in shape, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first one is in its convenience, because no matter what point of the mallet you hit, this will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the brush. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitor the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not work to make such a tool without a special workbench.


Lacks of materials - imperfect mallets!

Beaters have a significant drawback - since they are made from a workpiece with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use working part after some time, such a mallet resembles a real washcloth, no matter what kind of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers bring to our attention improved, in their opinion, tools. For example, a “casing” made of bronze is put on a chiseled mallet.

To some extent, a really durable tool is obtained, but the chisels themselves cease to be such! After several visits, they will already have a shabby look, and not a mallet. Under such a tool, you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be an ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the blows are very gentle for the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - the rubber tends to spring when struck.

It turns out that there is no perfect mallet? After all, it is necessary to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of cushioning upon impact;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet offered ideal option, but the masters themselves learned how to do it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber ...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What are the options for creating a mallet? If you have already purchased turning tool, then at least you can wrap several layers working area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge with carpentry glue to the wood at the beginning of winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the dimensions of the material allow, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bits with a worm clamp or, in extreme cases, make a winding of strong twine. From above, you can nail the protruding edges to the end of the mallet with small cloves or simply cut it off - if you glued the layers well, then this option will last a long time. However, it is much better to make a mallet completely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather, in the market you can look for trimmings from sellers, which they will gladly give, if not for nothing, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Cooking the Pen

It is best to take a hardwood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut is also suitable. If it is possible to grind it on a lathe, then do it to get a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a ledge in the middle of the handle so that there is a support for the skin layers. If a lathe no, you can wind several layers of rope to stop.

Step 2: Prepare the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the same size from the leather. To begin with, make one layout and mark the required amount on a piece of material for it - depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 such circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the larger it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: Stringing Layers

Make a hole in each layer so that you can string the skin onto the handle. We connect each layer with the next, we try to press the layers to each other as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and smeared with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.

Step 4: Attach the washer

So that in the future the leather layers would not be able to fly off, a large washer - metal or wooden - should be fixed from the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to pick optimal size for your handle so that it does not crack.

That's all! The skin will not scatter into small chips during operation, the blows actually get stuck in this material and do not create as much noise as when working with conventional wooden tool. Of course, messing with such a tool makes sense when you are constantly working with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden mallet is quite suitable!



How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you do not even need a drawing of a mallet - everything is very simple! Find three reasonably large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder wood species, except for the handle, as they split from constant blows. Adjust all trimmings to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and circle its contour. Then cut the bar with a tape or in such a way that the resulting two pieces fit snugly against the handle. It is important that the handle and these two cuttings have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and cut off the excess. How to walk sandpaper and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted directly to labor.

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing such a product as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones, and whether there is an ideal version of the mallet.

Rubber mallet - both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of various shapes. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the "engine" of the chisels in the process of hewing parts. This happens as follows: in one hand, the master holds the chisel, attaching it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, which he hits on the end of the chisel handle, giving it the necessary force for chiseling. The lightness of the material avoids severe injuries to the hands and spares the tool itself.

In terms of shape, there are two types of mallets - a mallet turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a mallet, which resembles a sledgehammer in shape, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first one is in its convenience, because no matter what point of the mallet you hit, this will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the brush. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitor the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not work to make such a tool without a special workbench.

Lacks of materials - imperfect mallets!

Beaters have a significant drawback - since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use, the working part of such a mallet after some time resembles a real washcloth, no matter what kind of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers bring to our attention improved, in their opinion, tools. For example, a “casing” made of bronze is put on a chiseled mallet.

To some extent, a really durable tool is obtained, but the chisels themselves cease to be such! After several visits, they will already have a shabby look, and not a mallet. Under such a tool, you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be an ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the blows are very gentle for the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - the rubber tends to spring when struck.

It turns out that there is no perfect mallet? After all, it is necessary to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of cushioning upon impact;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet offered the ideal option, but the craftsmen themselves have learned how to make it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber ...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What are the options for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, at a minimum, you can wrap several layers around the work area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge with carpentry glue to the wood at the beginning of winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the dimensions of the material allow, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bits with a worm clamp or, in extreme cases, make a winding of strong twine. From above, you can nail the protruding edges to the end of the mallet with small cloves or simply cut it off - if you glued the layers well, then this option will last a long time. However, it is much better to make a mallet completely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather, in the market you can look for trimmings from sellers, which they will gladly give, if not for nothing, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Cooking the Pen

It is best to take a hardwood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut is also suitable. If it is possible to grind it on a lathe, then do it to get a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a ledge in the middle of the handle so that there is a support for the skin layers. If there is no lathe, then several layers of rope can be wound to stop.

Step 2: Prepare the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the same size from the leather. To begin with, make one layout and mark the required amount on a piece of material for it - depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 such circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the larger it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: Stringing Layers

Make a hole in each layer so that you can string the skin onto the handle. We connect each layer with the subsequent PVA wood glue, we try to press the layers to each other as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and smeared with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.

Step 4: Attach the washer

So that in the future the leather layers would not be able to fly off, a large washer - metal or wooden - should be fixed from the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to find the optimal size for your pen so that it does not crack. That's it! The leather will not scatter into small chips in the process of work, the blows actually get stuck in this material and do not create as much noise as when working with a conventional wooden tool. Of course, messing with such a tool makes sense when you are constantly working with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden mallet is quite suitable!

How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you do not even need a drawing of a mallet - everything is very simple! Find three reasonably large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder wood species, except for the handle, as they split from constant blows. Adjust all trimmings to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and circle its contour. Then cut the bar with a band saw or bow saw so that the resulting two pieces fit snugly against the handle. It is important that the handle and these two cuttings have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and cut off the excess. Properly go over with sandpaper and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted directly to labor.

  • See handle bracket chrome.