Cast iron bath repair: how to repair enamel damage. We are restoring an old cast-iron bathtub! Restoration of enamel on their own Preparing for repair

Upper layer enamel in steel and cast iron baths wears out over time. Unpleasant spots, cracks, chips, yellowness appear on the surface. Of course, such a bathtub can be thrown away and replaced with a new one, but restoration will prolong the life of your plumbing and save your family budget.

Restoration can be carried out using various methods, including:

• application of two-component enamel. The two components are the hardener and the enamel itself. The mixture is applied to the surface like a regular paint;
• filling the bath with acrylic (glass). After sanding and thorough degreasing, the bath is filled with acrylic. After 2 days, the updated plumbing is completely ready for use;
• bath-in-bath installation. This method is to install acrylic liner completely identical to the old bathtub. The insert is attached with glue or foam and allows you to use the restored bathroom for a long time.

Bath preparation for enameling or acrylic application

Although these methods have their own characteristics, the preparation procedure is completely identical. It is necessary to remove the layer of old enamel and achieve maximum adhesion of the future coating to cast iron / steel.

Find out what are, and also check out the types and tips for choosing, from our new article.

The following materials and accessories must be prepared:

• cleaning powder;
• solvent;
• cloth-based abrasive paper (for example, P24);
• fast-hardening polyester putty for automobiles;
• polyethylene, newspapers and masking tape;
• vacuum cleaner (or a wide soft brush);
• grinder + grinding wheels;
• the cloth is clean and does not leave lint;
• hair dryer for construction;
• screwdriver.

Step 1. We clean the entire surface of the bath with a brush and abrasive(powder).

Step 2. We take sandpaper and clean the bath until there are risks from the abrasive. There is no need to rinse off the cleaning agent when sanding. Instead of sandpaper, you can use an angle grinder with a special attachment. This will greatly simplify the work and speed up the preparation process.

Step 3. After sanding, wash off all the crumbs and soap film well. Etch the bath using oxalic acid. We neutralize the acid with soda.

Step 4. Filling the bath hot water to the sides. We wait for about 10 minutes, open the drain so that the water glass, and then wipe the bath with a cloth dry. You can warm up the vessel with a building hair dryer. So the moisture will sooner evaporate and the bath can be further prepared for restoration.

Step 5. We examine the bathtub for major defects, potholes. We apply car putty, and after it dries, we grind it with fine sandpaper. We remove the dust with a vacuum cleaner / soft brush, after which we thoroughly degrease the entire surface of the plumbing with a solvent and wipe it with lint-free napkins.

Step 6. Unscrew the shower hose. We wrap the spout and taps in polyethylene so that drops of water do not get into the bath during operation.

Step 7. Armed with a screwdriver, dismantle the grate and siphon under the bathroom. We substitute the dishes under the drain hole, into which drops of acrylic or enamel will flow.

Strapping diagram. 1 - overflow pipe; 2 - drain pipe; 3 - metal wedge of the support; 4 - floor siphon; 5- sewer bell; 6 - metal grounding strip

Step 8. We seal all surfaces that adjoin the vessel to be restored with masking tape. Floor standing next to washing machine, cover the sink with plastic or old newspapers.

We begin the restoration process.

Enamel application

You can enamel not only a bath, but also a shower tray made of steel and cast iron, a washbasin, a kitchen sink. The entire surface of the sanitary ware is restored, as well as individual areas, if necessary.

This method of restoration is short-lived, but quite economical. will serve you for a couple of years, after which you will again have to think about staining or replacing it.

Note! The enamel is pungent chemical smell, therefore, all work can only be performed in personal protective equipment for the respiratory system.

Step 1. Open the enamel and hardener. Pour them into a convenient container, mix with a mixer until smooth (see the exact proportions on the package).

Step 2. With a brush, begin to apply the enamel, making first horizontal and then vertical strokes. We carefully paint over the entire bath.

Advice! To prevent bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for one day!

Step 3. Without waiting for the first layer to dry, apply the second. Gently stretch the smudges with a brush.

Step 4. Paint over the bottom of the vessel again.

The bath will be ready for use in about 5 days. Until this moment, it is advisable not to turn on water and prevent dirt from getting on the painted surfaces.

Glass restoration or bulk bath

Such a two-component mixture is quite convenient to apply, does not have a pungent odor and has increased strength characteristics. The starch spreads by itself, and a monolithic even film forms on the surface of the bath. At the same time, the starkril does not dry too quickly, which means that work can be done without haste and fuss.

Step 1. Knead the glass in a convenient container with a mixer.

Step 2. Add the glass from the common dish to a small glass and pour it onto the top edge of the tub. As soon as the trickle reaches the middle of the wall, we begin to move the glass around the perimeter, periodically pouring the mixture into the glass.

Step 3. We repeat the process starting from the middle of the walls. It is not worth saving the mixture, the excess will merge into the container under the hole, and the coating will turn out to be even and smooth.

If bubbles form on the surface, they can be smoothed out with a plastic spatula or brush.

The polymerization process takes up to 4 days. The exact instructions for proportions and drying times are indicated on the glass packaging.

When the surface has completely hardened, you can remove films, newspapers, scotch tape, install a siphon (old or new, at the discretion of the owner) and use a bathroom that has been restored with your own hands.

Video - Bath restoration with liquid acrylic by the "filling" method

Bathtub to bathtub or acrylic liner

If you do not want to carry out hygiene procedures for several days, using a basin or visiting a bathhouse, then the method of inserting the acrylic liner will suit you perfectly. The process of self-restoration in this way takes no more than three hours, and you can use the bathroom the very next day.

In addition, the liner made of durable sanitary acrylic significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the bath, as a result, the water cools very slowly.

For the best result, it is important not only to select a suitable liner, but also to properly distribute the adhesive (Henkel foam and sealant).

Step 1. Armed with a screwdriver and a grinder, dismantle the strapping elements.

Step 2. Preparing the bath for installing the liner. We clean the entire surface with sandpaper, a grinder, remove the debris with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the surface. Wipe all drops of water dry. This measure is necessary to improve the adhesion of the adhesive foam to the sanitary ware.

Step 3. The inserts are transported with a technological edge, which we carefully cut with a grinder before installation.

Step 4. After the edge has been cut off, insert the insert into the bath and make markings for the technological holes. To do this, draw circles with a marker, sticking your hand under the bath and outlining the drain and overflow holes.

Step 5. By marking, we make drilling of technological holes.

Step 6. Apply two-component foam and sealant. We insert a bottle of sealant into the gun and distribute it around the drain and overflow holes. Next, we take the foam, inject it into the balloon with a syringe special composition, which will not allow her to swell excessively. From bottom to top, apply foam in stripes to the bottom, walls, sides of the restored vessel.

Step 7. Insert the acrylic liner into the bath, gently press it with your hands, leveling it. Remove excess sealant and foam.

Step 8. We install the siphon (piping).

Step 9. Fill the bathtub with water so that the foam, while solidifying, does not displace the light liner. The next day, you can drain the water and use the updated bathroom.

In your free time, you can install a decorative screen under the restored bathtub, as well as protective sides on the edges in contact with the walls.

Before starting your hygiene procedures, do not forget to remove protective film from the liner.

Video - Installing an acrylic liner. DIY bathroom restoration

How to repair chips or minor repairs to a damaged bathtub

Sometimes small chips appear on the surface, cracks from falling heavy objects, scratches. And in this case, there is no need to make a complete restoration, it is enough to carry out minor repairs in the proper sequence.

Previously, such defects were eliminated by mixing glue with tooth powder or by applying epoxy to the chip and sprinkling it with porcelain dust. But such methods are extremely unreliable, and it is better to refuse them.

Step one. Preparing the chip for repair. To begin with, we apply a rust converter to the chip, wait, wash off the composition with water. Then we clean the chip with powder or dishwashing liquid. We rinse with water and wipe dry.

Step two. Using acetone or another solvent, degrease the defective area. Dry and warm the surface with a hairdryer.

Step three. Using automotive putty, coat the chip. We wait until it dries and sand it with sandpaper.

Step four. We cover the putty place with two-component acrylic or automotive enamel.

Also, for restoration, you can use a ready-made repair kit for the bathtub, which includes acrylic paint, hardener, a few sheets of sandpaper, epoxy putty, polish and detailed instructions... The approximate cost of such a kit is from 900 to 1300 rubles.

Video - Repair of chips and even through holes in a metal bath

When a person buys a new bathtub, he does not even think about the fact that after 5-7 years he may have problems with its operation. Over time, foci of corrosion, dark spots and even real holes can appear on it. All this leads to the fact that it is simply impossible to do without repairs. Many people wonder how to repair a bathroom.

After prolonged use, any bathtub will lose its shine and whiteness, as a result of which restoration will be necessary.

In fact, there are several options for solving the problem. You can simply purchase a new bathtub. There will probably be no problems with her. There is an option with the call of restoration specialists. Fortunately, today there are no problems with this. But in this situation, you will have to shell out a large amount of money. The bathtub can be repaired by yourself. This method of solving the problem is considered the most troublesome, but the least expensive. About that, will be discussed further. Of course, before proceeding directly to the execution renovation works, you need to thoroughly prepare.

Tools and materials

The first stage of the preparatory work will be the acquisition of all the most necessary tools and materials. To work, you need the following:

• a respirator that will protect the body from the harmful effects of paint;
• brush;
• epoxy enamel;
• grinding tool;
• color color scheme;
• special detergent.

Always wear protective gloves and a respirator when restoring the bath.

This "combat" kit is enough to make repairs in the bathroom yourself.

Back to the table of contents

Preliminary preparation

So, all the tools and materials have been collected, which means that you can proceed directly to the implementation of the entire set of activities. When choosing an enamel, be sure to pay attention to the manufacturer. The best performance characteristics are enamels made in Finland. Domestic manufacturers do not always give a person good options for purchase. Kohler is necessary in cases where a person plans to make his bath colored. You should always remember that one coat of paint will not completely change the old color in which the bathtub was painted.

All preparatory work basically boils down to the fact that the bath will need to be degreased, as well as to create a special rough coating. It will increase the area of ​​contact of the old coating with the new one. This will have a positive effect on fresh paint application. Of course, the bathtub in the form in which it looks initially cannot be repaired. First you need to remove all gaskets and drains from it. They will interfere with the restoration work.

You may need a special tool to remove them. It all depends on specific method fastening. As a result, a bare metal body should remain. It needs to be processed using a special detergent which will degrease the surface without any problems. You need to process it with this material twice so that it is completely fat-free. Then you can move on to creating a rough layer.

Bathtub restoration process includes treatment of its surface with special degreasing solutions.

It is processed using a grinder, on which a grinding wheel is preliminarily put on. The sanding tool will remove any chips that form on the surface of the material. Next comes the cord brush. It will allow you to remove the dirt that has accumulated here over many years of operation from all cracks and chips. The result should be a rough surface. You can run it with your fingernail. If he touches something, then all the work is done correctly. If the surface remains smooth, then it is worth continuing to carry out all the activities.

The bath is then treated again with detergent. It is simply poured into it and then aged for 30 minutes. Then everything should be drained. Any selected product must be washed off with exclusively hot water. The bathtub needs to dry thoroughly. This will take a couple of hours. Then the vacuum cleaner comes into play. It removes all excess dust from the surface of the equipment.

Back to the table of contents

The main stage

Now everything is ready to apply the enamel to the prepared surface. To begin with, you should spread old newspapers on the floor. They will protect it from paint ingress. The enamel itself in the jar is set on the floor. Both active components are poured into it, and then the resulting mixture is simply stirred. Stir the enamel with a wooden stick. For work, it is worth using a stiff brush that has an impressive width. It is better to choose a tool that has a width of 7 cm. In this case, the work will simply seem easier.

First, the enamel is applied to the edges of the bath, and then you can gradually move to the sides.

Next, you need to draw a brush along the bottom. The enamel is shaded here. Now you can safely proceed to the main stage of applying the primer layer. It is applied by alternating horizontal and vertical movements. The second coat should be applied using the same method. Moreover, its application is carried out on a not yet dried surface. It is worth paying special attention to the side surfaces of the bathroom. They are handled carefully.

Now we must not forget about the third layer. It is applied with the addition of one more component to the enamel. All actions are repeated in the same way, that is, in the same way as was done in the previous case. It should be borne in mind that all the enamel should lie on the surface as evenly as possible. This effect can be easily verified. The same brush is taken in hand, which is held over the surface. As a result, if the tool slides evenly, then everything is done clearly in accordance with the instructions. If, after work, some enamel remains in the container, then it just needs to be poured onto the bottom. Then it is smeared over the surface. This action will definitely not be superfluous. The thicker the layer, the more reliably the bathtub will be protected.

After about 15 minutes, you can start removing all smudges. This is done with the same standard brush. All smudges are simply smeared with movements from the bottom up. The work may not end there. If the smudges form again, then with them you need to do the same thing as described above. Then the bathroom is simply closed for 4 days. After this period, you can safely start using it. She will certainly delight everyone with her appearance. Self repair, as is clear, requires a maximum investment in time, but it becomes the most effective, since a person does everything exclusively for himself.

A cast-iron bathtub is a thing of long-term use. But over time, even the most high quality coverage loses its visual appeal. Changing a cast iron bath is troublesome, so the question arises, how to repair a cast iron bath?

Of course, repairing a bathtub is quite laborious and requires patience. However, many people prefer to carry out a restoration rather than change the bathtub to a new model. There are three main ways to restore the appearance of your bathtub. Consider each of them.

Applying new enamel

To complete the work you will need:

• Drill with attachment for removing old coating.
• Oxalic acid.
• Composition for surface degreasing.
• Enamel.
• Brush for applying enamel.

The work is performed in the following sequence.

• The surface of the bath is cleaned from the layer of the old enamel. The easiest way to do this is with a drill with an appropriate attachment.
• If there is scale on the surface, remove it with oxalic acid.
• The surface is thoroughly cleaned from dust and degreased.

To make it easier to collect dust, cover all surfaces in the bathroom with old newspapers or sheets.

• Hot water should be taken into the prepared bath and kept for ten minutes. Then drain the water and wipe the surface thoroughly and let it dry well.
• Prepare the enamel by mixing the main component with a hardener.
• Apply the first layer of enamel to a dry bath surface. Let it dry for 20-30 minutes.
• Apply the second and third layers, remembering to allow time to dry.
• The last fourth layer is fortifying. After its application, the repair can be considered complete.

It will be possible to use the bathroom after applying the enamel no earlier than three days later.

Sanding the bath and applying new enamel

Why is this method good?

• It allows you to change the color of the bath at your discretion, choosing the desired shade.
• The work can be successfully completed independently, even with modest experience in construction.

Disadvantages of this method the restorations are much larger:

• The method is laborious, a lot of dust is formed in the process of cleaning the enamel.
• The resulting coating cannot be compared in strength to enameling in the factory. It will need to be handled with extreme caution, but in this case, the new coating will last no more than 20 months.

Using an acrylic liner

Bath repair using acrylic liner

To complete this work you will need:

• Sanitary acrylic insert to fit the size of the bathtub.
• Two-component assembly foam or special mastic.
• Silicone sealant.

This recovery method is one of the simplest and most effective. To implement it, you should purchase an acrylic bath insert.

A good result can be achieved only if the acrylic liner is of high quality. Therefore, when buying, you should definitely require the presentation of a certificate.

Repair procedure:

• First, prepare the insert by making drain and overflow holes in it.
• The space near the holes made are lubricated with a sealant.
• The liner is secured in place with two-component foam or special mastic.
• The foam should be applied evenly over the entire surface of the liner, otherwise voids will appear in which the acrylic will bend.
  The consequence of such a flaw will be the rapid appearance of cracks.

The advantages of this method:

• can be carried out without much labor and quickly enough.
• Provided that a high quality liner has been used, the bathtub will be able to serve for a long time.
• The surface of the acrylic liner is smooth and shiny, it is resistant to wear and does not fade during use.

The disadvantages include the need to carry out work before finishing the walls in the room... Otherwise, you will have to beat off the tiles located around the perimeter of the bath.

Using liquid acrylic or pouring bath method

Bathroom renovation using liquid acrylic

To carry out the restoration in this way, you will need a special composition - liquid acrylic, which is sold under the brand name "Stakril". In fact, this method is similar to enameling a bath, but the material consumption is an order of magnitude higher, which means that the layer of the new coating will be thicker. Due to the use of a modern hardener, the material spreads evenly over the surface, so there is no need to distribute it manually.

Using this method As with the application of enamel, careful surface preparation will be required. It will be necessary to thoroughly clean the bath from the old coating, degrease, wash and dry it.

Acrylic coating, unlike enamel, is not applied with a brush, but poured over the surface (hence the name of the method). Pouring begins from the upper sides, then the walls in the lower part are processed and, last of all, the bottom.

When performing this work, it is required to disconnect the bathroom drain and place a container under the drain hole into which excess material will drain. This ensures that the acrylic is applied evenly.

The coating layer will be about 6 mm. It will be possible to use the bathroom 3-4 days after the completion of the work, since the new coating should have time to dry well.

The disadvantages of this method are its laboriousness, but the coating is of higher quality and more durable than when using enamel. This coating is more resistant to mechanical damage, and a wide range of colors of "Stakril" material allows you to choose the shade of the bath to your taste.

By applying one of the methods described above, you can successfully repair an old cast iron bathtub. Of course, if you plan to carry out repairs on your own, then doing this work will take time and significant labor costs. However, restoration is still cheaper and easier than replacing a bathtub.

After all, cast iron is a very heavy metal, and it is extremely difficult to transport and mount bathtubs made of this material. If there is no desire or opportunity to carry out the restoration work on your own, you can make an order in companies that are engaged in the restoration of the enamel of old bathtubs.

During the operation of a cast-iron bath, due to certain circumstances, damage to the enamel may occur due to mechanical stress and, as a result, the formation of rust stains. Appearance bathtubs becomes unaesthetic and the owner faces several ways to solve this problem, one of which is do-it-yourself restoration.

This procedure, although it is laborious, but at the same time, significant financial savings are achieved, the decoration of the walls and floors is not disturbed during dismantling, and the usual reliable, but updated bathtub remains.

Is it possible to perform a bath restoration?

It should be understood that the bath can be restored only if there are no clearly rotten areas that cannot be repaired. This applies to the bottom near the drain and where water remains permanently. On the front, the enamel may be in good condition, but due to rust penetrating through the damaged coating, the cast iron may rust. As a result, the thickness of the metal is not able to provide the previous performance characteristics... You can assess the maintainability by stripping the old enamel, and then tapping the surface with a wooden or rubber hammer to identify problem areas.

How to clean an old bathtub covering?

It is best to clean old enamel by applying an abrasive powder to the surface and rubbing or grinding with a grinding wheel. Abrasive nozzles on an electric drill should be used in cases of deep penetration of rust into the metal layer. In this case, it is advisable to perform circular or translational movements of the working part of the tool over the surface, so as not to accidentally grind off the excess layer. Also suitable are restorative compounds that are applied directly to the affected areas. When the cleaned dirt accumulates, it is removed. The procedure is carried out until the coating is removed, that is, to a shiny cast-iron surface.

Acrylic application

Full or partial restoration of enamel?

This issue is considered in each case individually, since it is necessary to take into account the condition of the enamel, the service life and the amount of damage. If upon delivery or installation new bath small chips were obtained, local processing is possible. But even in this case, problems may arise with the selection of the color tone and the creation of a certain thickness of the coating. That is, the traces of recovery will be, albeit slightly, but noticeable. After removing rust stains, the contrast will be more pronounced, as the enamel has acquired a yellowish tint. Therefore, in the conditions of taking quick measures to preserve the metal, it is possible to carry out partial processing and finishing, but to obtain the quality of the coating, a complete restoration is done.

Preparation of the bath surface for painting

After removing the enamel and removing the rust, wash off the coating residues and crumbs with water. Then the surface is degreased by applying special chemical mixtures, neutral to cast iron, by rubbing with a soft dry cloth.

Note!

When inspecting the bath, the wall thickness is checked and the possibility of further operation is determined.

Before applying a new coating, the bath is heated with a poured hot water within 15 minutes. Then the water is drained, and inner surface wipe dry with a soft cloth for painting. As a result, the surface should remain free of lint, dust and other foreign matter.

Acrylic coating

One of simple ways To create an ideal bathtub cover, it is a method of pouring an acrylic solution onto the surface - a glass bottle. It is a two-component mixture of hardener and acrylic. When applied to the surface, the composition polymerizes and forms a thin uniform layer with a thickness of up to 5 mm. It has various degrees of viscosity and fluidity, which allows you to select with high precision the required option for creating layers of a given thickness. Also, for beginners, delayed polymerization will be convenient, which gives a little time to eliminate minor errors.

Method of creating acrylic coating

1. Prepare the mixture according to the instructions.
2. Take a container and fill it with liquid acrylic.
3. The mixture is slowly poured onto the edges of the tub until it reaches about the middle of the wall height, after which the stream is moved further around the perimeter.
4. Having passed the entire perimeter, the procedure is repeated starting from the middle until a continuous coating is formed.

Acrylic coating

Advantages and disadvantages of self-leveling coating

The acrylic coating has high strength and therefore is able to protect the bath from external mechanical influences and significantly increase the service life. The method of its application is quite simple and even in the absence of experience in carrying out such work, difficulties will not arise. The coating is smooth and sufficiently thick due to its ability to fill in irregularities and small surface defects. When applied, there are no pungent odors and therefore does not need to be applied protective equipment respiratory organs. However, the drying time can be at least three days. Renovating an old cast iron bathtub in this way is very expensive.

Types of enamels for painting

This method is classic and successfully used for the budget restoration of the enamel coating of bathtubs. There are two types of enamels: professional and regular. The first is used by specialists with extensive experience in enameling. This is due to the fact that the composition of the mixture has high fluidity and to apply a layer of a certain thickness, it will be necessary to paint in several layers. At each stage, a layer of the same thickness is created without streaks and streaks. With experience, it is possible to carry out a partial restoration of the old coating with high precision. Ordinary enamel is thicker and the entire coating is painted at one time, but with minor errors.

Coating

The process of applying enamel to the bath

First, you need to prepare the necessary composition of the mixture. To do this, it is poured into two containers for mixing two portions in equal amounts, since the restoration of a cast-iron bath with enamel is carried out in two layers. The first part is mixed with the hardener in the amount described in the instructions for use. Then it is poured into a spray bottle and the first layer of enamel is evenly applied to the surface. This procedure can be performed with a brush, but it will take more time to create a layer of a given thickness. After that, they wait until it dries and immediately apply the second layer in the same way. The bathroom can be used no earlier than after 7 days.

Using the bath insert

The method is a radical solution in cases where the state of the cast-iron bath was brought to a non-operational state: there are rusty holes or significant damage to the surface, and the owner decided that it was better to restore it than to replace it with a new one. The special insert is an acrylic frame that is inserted into the cast-iron bath and glued onto a special adhesive.

Note!

The insert is made at the factory according to individual sizes, so it will be extremely expensive.

In place, adjust to the level, coat it with glue, put it in the bath, and coat it with sealant on top. In a day, the bath is ready for use.

Conclusion

The restoration of the operational state of the bath requires an analysis of the economic feasibility of such an event. It includes the amount of time spent, the availability of experience in carrying out such work and the availability of the necessary tools. Therefore, before restoring the cast-iron bath, its condition is assessed and the choice of possible methods of applying enamel is carried out.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath restoration video:

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When the cast-iron bathroom began to lose its whiteness, roughness and grayness began to appear in some places, or the surface was covered with cracks, chips formed, then the question is rightly brewing - how to repair the bath so as not to replace it with a new one.

This method exists, and more than one. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Features of DIY bath repair

One of the ways to restore the bath to its original appearance is to try to repair the bath with your own hands. This procedure is rather painstaking and laborious. If you follow all the rules for when, you can achieve an excellent result, and the updated bathroom will serve at least another couple of years.

Such a short service life of the coating is due to the fact that in production the enamel is hardened or applied to a hot bath. At home, enameling is more like painting. But all the same, it is this method that helps out the owners, if, for example, you just need to postpone the time of purchasing a new product.

Initially, the bath must be prepared by degreasing and cleaning its surface. This is done simply, but a more laborious process will be further grinding the surface with a grinding wheel or sandpaper... Next, it is necessary to apply the enamel in two layers, and breaks between layers of 15 minutes should be taken.

Bath restoration - repair of chips can be performed with nitro enamel, super cement glue or BF-25 glue with dry whitewash. But it is better for this type of work to be performed by a master.

There are currently three more methods available:

1. Repair of old bathtubs with a special polymer composition using a brush. Performed manually by the wizard. Most often, the warranty for this type of repair is one year, but the coating can last for 3 years.
2. (bath in the bathroom).
3. Bulk bath - stakril.

Let us examine the second and third methods in more detail.

Acrylic bath liner

This method is the most expensive way to restore a bathroom, but it is also the most durable. After this type of restoration, the bathtub can be used for another 15 years, of course, if proper care is provided.

This method can also be used to repair chipped baths.

When restoring a bath with an acrylic liner, the specialist performs the following work:

• Elimination of the strapping.
• Bath preparation.
• Edge trimming.
• Hole marking and liner fitting.
• Application of 2-component foam around the perimeter of the product and sealant in the drain area.
• Direct insertion of the liner.
• Installation of piping and filling the bath with water.

During the day, the bath must be left full, then the water is drained and the product can be used.

Bulk bath - stakril

This method of bath restoration is not as expensive as repair steel bath with an acrylic liner. It takes no more than six hours of continuous work, but the bottom line is worth it.

Stages of preparing the bath for the application of bulk, liquid acrylic or glass:

• The tub fittings must be removed.
• It is necessary to thoroughly prepare the surface of the bath. Preparatory work very similar to working with enameling a bath. Initially, a stain and rust remover is applied to the bathtub. It is important to read the instructions for the selected tool to work with it.
• Next, the surface of the bath must be cleaned sandpaper until matt.

Bath preparation for restoration

• Re-clean the bath with pemolux. Between stripping, you need to thoroughly rinse the bath with a large volume of water.
• Dry the bath. For additional degreasing, it can be treated with Thinner 646.

For reference. Bathtub refurbishers prepare the bathtub surface slightly differently. Before cleaning, they carefully study the surface and only then (depending on the condition of the product) begin to clean the bath, using different means.

There is no need to describe all the nuances, since there are a lot of them. For this reason, the simplest method of surface preparation is described.

Preparation and direct application of the bulk bath composition

Bath before and after restoration

The enamel for the pouring bath contains two components - a hardener and a base. To dilute the material, add the hardener to the container with the base and mix thoroughly. It takes about 5-10 minutes to stir. Next, you need to let the finished mixture brew for another 10 minutes and mix thoroughly again.

Renovating an old bath is generally straightforward. First you need to pour a strip of the mixture along the side and introduce the mixture with a spatula under a tile or other finishing material, depending on what the walls of the bathroom are decorated with. Then the remaining solution must be applied in a spiral over the entire surface of the bath.

Renovated bathroom care

Bathroom care should be carried out in accordance with the following rules:

1. Various hard scourers can damage the finish. You can also not use acid-containing products, for example, Sanox.
2. You cannot clean the bath with cleaning agents that are designed for cleaning tiles and toilets, as they contain various abrasive substances and acids. As a result of exposure to these drugs, the enamel quickly collapses, the bath rusts and turns yellow.
3. It is forbidden to allow a prolonged accumulation of water in the bathroom, it must drain freely. It is necessary to keep the bath dry when not in use.
4. Faucets and showers must be functional, otherwise water leaks will lead to rust and yellow permanent deposits.
5. It is also not recommended to soak colored laundry in the bath.
6. The coating can be destroyed by placing metal basins in the bathtub. If you cannot do without this, then you need to put a wooden pallet or soft rags under the basin.

The bathroom will last longer if there is no very sharp temperature contrast, in other words, it is not recommended to run cold and then hot water.

As a result of this impact, cracks and chips appear on the bath.

Bathtub restoration is always much cheaper than purchasing a new one. Therefore, carefully following our advice, feel free to tackle the restoration of the coating of the old bathtub.