How to properly apply putty on the walls. Wall puttying technology for leveling wallpaper: which mixture to choose, how to apply, how many layers and how good the finish is How to plaster walls with putty

27.06.2020

When planning a major overhaul in an apartment or house, as well as when moving into a new housing that does not have finishing, you will definitely have to decide on putting the walls in order. Of course, you can invite a team of builders and “unfasten” them a decent amount, sometimes without even having a guarantee that the work was done with high quality. However, in order to be sure that all the finishing layers applied to the walls will not fall off in a couple of weeks, it is better to carry out all the construction processes on your own, of course, having studied their technology in advance.

- not such a simple task as it seems at first glance. It is possible to align the walls to the ideal only after the skill appears in the process of applying the compositions to the surface. Therefore, before starting such work, after reading the instructions, it is recommended to practice on small sections of the wall that are not visible, for example, in places that are guaranteed to be covered by large furniture

What putty to buy?

Wall puttying should not be considered a secondary process that can be skipped. If it is not carried out qualitatively, then all surface irregularities will show through any finishing coating, whether it be wallpaper, decorative plaster or coloring.

Puttying is usually the final process in preparing walls for any decorative coating. The main task is to achieve an almost perfectly even and smooth plane due to a thin layer of putty on the surface of the walls, which fills in the existing flaws and eliminates irregularities. To obtain the desired result, two types are used - this is the starting and finishing.

The composition of the starting putty includes a mixture of dry materials of coarse grinding. Such a solution is used to pre-treat the wall, leveling out the most serious flaws and at the same time creating a good basis for applying the finishing layer.

The finishing, finishing mixture is made on the basis of a fine powder, most often gypsum. Subject to technology preparation of, the timing and correctness of its application, it is possible to make the surface of the walls of the room perfectly smooth.

Sometimes, to tidy up the walls, universal mixtures are used, which are suitable for both primary, rough leveling and finishing, that is, one composition is applied in several layers.

Putty can be purchased dry or ready-to-use. Ready-made formulations, of course, are easy to use - they are produced on oil-glue, drying oil, latex, polymer and other bases. But they did not gain much popularity among private masters because of the rather high cost, which is far from accessible to everyone.

But dry putty mixtures are on sale in a wide variety, so that you can even get confused at first. Some parameters of putties are summarized in the table presented to the reader's attention. In more detail, you should get acquainted with each composition directly when choosing, reading the instructions attached to each package.

Name indicator	Established standards for brands
	LS 10/90	HP 35/65	HP 50/50	LS 65/35	Fine Coat 50/50	termonite	For blocks
Recommended thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10
Recommended water consumption in l/25 kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7
Ultimate compressive strength, MPa, not less than	16	8	4	2	4	6	20
Ultimate bending strength, MPa, not less than	2	2	1	1	1	3	3
Adhesion (adhesion) with the base, MPa, not less than	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5
Average density. solution kg/m3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13
Notes:
LS 10/90 belongs to the category of adhesive compounds;
HP 35/65, 50/50, 65/35 and putty for blocks - leveling compounds;
"Fine Coat 50/50" and "Termonit" - finishing compositions

When purchasing putty, you need to consider and study its packaging, paying attention not only to its characteristics, but also to the expiration date. If the material is overdue, then it should not be taken, since in this case the money will be thrown away. You should not buy putty mixture stored in high humidity conditions, even if its expiration date has not yet expired. Wet or damp-spotted packaging is a sure sign of a spoiled mixture.

It is recommended to purchase putty compositions for the starting and finishing layers, made by the same company, as they provide good mutual adhesion and compatibility, which will allow you to get a better result.

Prices for popular types of putty

Putties

Materials and tools

It is very important to prepare well for work so that in the process you are not distracted due to the lack of any material or the necessary tool.

So, for work you will need:

Starting and finishing putty mixes.
Primer composition.
A plastic container for mixing putty, if it is purchased dry.
A special paint bath for working with a primer.
Construction roller and two brushes - wide and narrow. They are necessary for applying a primer in hard-to-reach places e.g. in corners or behind radiators.
Spatulas:

- wide in 500 ÷ 600 mm or even 700 ÷ 800 mm - for applying the finishing layer of putty;

- narrow 100 ÷ 150 mm - for taking putty from a container and applying it to a large spatula, as well as for leveling the composition in the corners.

- angular - to align the corners when they are putty.

Rule for controlling the evenness of the wall.
Drill and nozzle-mixer for mixing the mass.
Electric grinder (vibratory or eccentric) or hand grater for troweling and sanding the applied putty.
A spotlight or portable light bulb to reveal poorly aligned areas on the wall.
Construction knife.

Preparing walls for plastering

Before applying putty, the wall must be carefully prepared. If old plaster or pieces of wallpaper remain on it, they must be removed. You will also have to clean the wall of oil or water-based paint.

After removing the old coating, cracks or bumps may appear on the wall. In order for the putty to lay flat and not crack after drying along the cracks, it is necessary to seal them.

- Before filling the detected cracks, they must be expanded as deep as possible into the wall so that they do not repeat their direction after applying the putty.

- After expansion, the crack is cleaned of dust and pieces of plaster - this process can be carried out with a small brush.

- A starting putty or sealant is applied to the dried crack. The repair mixture must be pressed as deep as possible into the crack, and leveled from above with the level of the wall surface.

- After the putty or sealant has dried, you need to walk along the top of the repaired crack with a grater to finally level it with the wall.

If the wall, then all its joints should be glued with a fiberglass mesh, on top of which a thin layer of putty is applied. Holes from recessed heads of self-tapping screws, which drywall fixed to a wall or crate must also be filled with putty mixture, otherwise rust from them will appear through any decorative finish.

After the sealing joints have dried, they proceed to applying a primer with antiseptic properties to the walls. This layer will give additional surface strength, increase the adhesion of materials and extend operational period finishes.

It is poured into a special tray, from which it is easy to draw it onto a roller (brush) for application to the wall surface. It is very important to treat all hard-to-reach places well, otherwise it is from there that the putty may subsequently peel off.

The primer applied to the walls should dry well.

Prices for different types of primer

Primer

Putty preparation

If a dry mixture is purchased, then it must be properly prepared, as it must be uniform in consistency and resemble thick sour cream.

For mixing the mixture, an ordinary plastic bucket is suitable, into which water at room temperature is poured. Usually, a bag of putty weighing 25 kg requires 9.5 ÷ 10 liters of water, but to find out for sure, you must read the instructions before opening the bag with the mixture.

If the selected mixture is made on a gypsum basis, you should not knead it too much, since its "life" is very limited. The time of use of the mixed solution can also be found in the instructions for its preparation.
After pouring the powder into the water, the mixture is kneaded using a mixer attachment fixed in the drill chuck.

After the first portion of the mixed solution has been used, the bucket and mixer must be thoroughly rinsed, otherwise the next solution may turn out with solid inclusions left over from the first batch. It is clear that such an operation is repeated constantly throughout the work.

Applying the starting putty

On the primed surface, the starting putty is applied with a wide spatula, on which the mixture is applied for convenience and evenly distributed with a small spatula.

from the corner and down up smooth movements without strong pressing on the spatula, which should be held at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. It is this position that will help to apply the putty evenly, without leaving marks on it from the corners of the tool.

Putty strips are applied to the surface overlap, that is, the strokes should overlap each other by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

After applying putty to a certain area, using the rule, its evenness is checked. The rule is carefully, without pressure, carried out along the putty surface. The plane of the tool with its even edge should collect the excess putty mixture and reveal obvious cavities. The flaws will be especially visible if the wall is illuminated with a light bulb in such a way as to create a moving shadow.

If differences are found, then you should once again walk along the surface of the wall with a wide spatula to level them. This can be done while the putty on the wall is still wet.

When applying the starting layer, you need to pay special attention to the corners, since they are constantly the “weak point” when leveling the walls. Therefore, very often a special spatula in the form of a right angle is used to level these difficult places for plastering.

One of the trickiest tricks is leveling the corners.

After applying the starting layer, the walls are rarely perfectly even, although this should be strived for. Small errors are allowed, which can cover the finish layer.
Upon completion of the application of the starting layer on all the walls of the room, it is necessary to wait for it to dry - only then proceed to the first grout. Using an electric grinder or a manual grater with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh fixed on it, all irregularities from the coarse-grained starting mixture are removed from the surface of the walls. In addition, the grout will be able to even out small flaws left from the corners of the working surface of the spatula.

Grouting is carried out by movements along the trajectory of the spiral. You must be careful and try not to miss a single centimeter of the putty surface.

If, after grouting, irregularities deeper than 2.5 ÷ 3 mm are found on the illuminated wall, then a second layer of the same mixture is applied to the first starting layer. It can be applied to the entire surface or only to certain areas where defects were found.

Finishing layer of putty

The final layer of putty is applied after the starting one has completely dried, according to the same principle - that is, from the corners and down up.

The mixture is also applied with a small spatula to a large one, distributed along its edge, and applied to the wall with clear movements with a little pressure. The layer of the finishing mixture should not be thicker than two millimeters, and the remaining excess putty and lines from the edges of the spatula are gently stretched and smoothed by passing over them again.

In order to see all the defects at once, it is recommended to create combined lighting coming from several light sources in the process of work, or use a mobile light bulb on a wire so that you can bring it to the wall to be leveled from different sides. When creating such lighting, cast dynamic shadows will immediately reveal under-aligned areas of the wall.
Finishing putty is applied in two layers. The second is applied after the first has completely dried.
When the second layer dries, it is rubbed in the same way as the starting one, using a grater or a special power tool with a fine-grained sandpaper or abrasive (start with grain 200 and usually end with 400). If surface defects are found, it is permissible to apply another finishing layer to its individual sections.
The corners of the room must be repaired and sanded very carefully, as flaws will be especially noticeable on them. To remove them, two spatulas are used - angular and rubber. The first one immediately forms an angle, and the second one gently smooths out the excess putty.

After completion of puttying and grouting, the walls are covered with one or two more layers of primer, and only after that can a decorative finish be applied.

If the walls are planned after leveling, then the process of applying putty must be approached with particular care, since the surface must be leveled to the ideal. If the room is decorated with wallpaper, then they are to some extent able to hide small defects, but when painting, on the contrary, flaws will appear - this must be foreseen and made a choice decorative coating in advance.

After completing all the work on leveling the walls with putty, all the tools that were used for the process must be well cleaned, rinsed and dried, as it will definitely be needed to tidy up the other rooms of the apartment.

To achieve the desired result when leveling the surface of the walls with putty, it is recommended to follow some rules and recommendations. Some have already been mentioned in the article, but it makes sense to take them out separately in the form of a final summary:

If there is not enough experience in this type of work, you should not buy a large amount of materials. To try whether it will be possible to carry out these works on your own, you can purchase a small amount of putty by weight, learn how to prepare a mortar and try a small section of the wall.

Having made such an experiment, it will be possible to immediately understand whether it will be possible to perform puttying large surfaces, or still it is worth entrusting the work to professionals.

The work on applying and leveling the putty should be carried out under lighting from several lighting fixtures installed at different ends of the room.
The starting putty is applied with a thickness of no more than 4 ÷ 5 mm, since layers that are thicker can peel off, and there is also a high risk of cracks appearing on them.
Before applying each subsequent layer, you need to make sure that the previous one is completely dry. The drying period of the putty directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer, the level of humidity and the temperature in the room.
It is forbidden to accelerate the drying of putty walls by installing heaters or creating a draft in the room, as these influences can lead to delamination of the applied composition from the walls.
After applying each of the layers, it is imperative to check all surfaces using the rule, making marks of places that require additional adjustment.
Getting perfectly even corners is possible only if a special spatula is used to align them.

And finally, a few words about precautions when carrying out such construction and finishing works:

To carry out the puttying of walls and ceilings, it is necessary to prepare not only tools and material, but also suitable clothing and equipment. So, when working with putties, plasters, primers, paints, it is necessary to protect hair and skin.

A scarf is usually tied on the head, and you can use it as a working uniform. old clothes covering the body as much as possible, which is not a pity to get dirty. Hands are recommended to be protected with thick rubber gloves.

When carrying out grouting work, it is imperative to protect the respiratory tract and eyes, since a lot of fine dust will fly. To do this, you need to purchase a respirator and special glasses at the hardware store.
If the walls in the room are high, you need to take care of a reliable stable staircase or build a goat for this. The latter are preferable to have, since they allow you to immediately cover a large finishing area, and they do not have to be rearranged often.

And in conclusion, according to the tradition of our portal - a visual video lesson on leveling the walls with putty:

Video: the first steps in working with putty mixtures

It should be noted that the alignment of the walls is to some extent even a creative process, but quite laborious. Therefore, if there is no predisposition to such events, then it is better not to take it on, but to entrust the execution to professional plasterers. But if there is a great desire to try your hand and at the same time even save money, then you should take a chance and do everything yourself.

So that no one is deceived, let's say right away that puttying is a rather long and labor-intensive process that requires strict adherence to the sequence of actions, patience, diligence and care. It also requires not only the moral and physical preparation of the master, but also very specific actions with the surfaces being processed, which we will definitely talk about today.

So, first of all, you need to look at the walls with which we will work. In most cases, these will be plastered surfaces, as well as those made of drywall and similar materials. If it's just in front of you Brick wall without plaster, then it will not be possible to putty it, since the applied layer is measured in millimeters, and much more may be required for normal alignment.

Another thing is if you have to work with monolithic slab surfaces, in panel houses- here it is quite possible to do without alignment, if they are installed qualitatively, vertically. Since, in fact, both surfaces will be concrete, and in the case of plaster, gypsum is also possible, the work will be done in the same way.

The easiest way to work with drywall surfaces. Here the procedure will be somewhat different, so we will describe it separately.

The next point we pay attention to is the purpose of the room itself. This parameter will affect the selection of the type of putty. Consider the most common and popular.

Types of putties

1. Gypsum mixes presented on the market building materials in a huge range. It is they who are the best-selling, as they have a small price, good performance characteristics harmless and hypoallergenic. This material is used for dry rooms. For bathrooms and similar places with high humidity, they are not taken, since flora in the form of black mold begins to multiply very quickly in gypsum.

Of the positive properties, it is worth noting that this putty "breathes", that is, it passes steam through itself, due to which a natural microclimate is established in the room, and excess moisture is removed through the walls. The surface obtained from gypsum putty is somewhat rough, has good adhesion to paints, wallpaper and other finishing materials.

2. Polymer blends have a number of advantages. In particular, it is worth noting that the material is supplied mainly in a ready-to-use form and has an ideal consistency. The mixture is homogeneous and allows you to easily obtain perfectly smooth surfaces. Perfectly lays down on gypsum boards and can be combined with starting gypsum surfaces.

The material is supplied in buckets or hermetically sealed bags, which allows the putty to be used for a long time after opening them - it is enough to re-seal the container. Such mixtures are not afraid of storage in wet places, unlike gypsum, supplied dry, in bags that get wet easily.

The surface of the polymer putty is not afraid of water, and cannot pass steam through itself, so its use is justified in wet rooms. Due to its structure, the material can be applied in thinner layers, which significantly reduces consumption and eliminates the initial difference in price with cheaper putties. In doing so, you get a smooth surface almost immediately and reduce the need for sanding, which, believe me, means a lot.

There are other types of putties, for example, facade ones based on the same polymers or cement. We will not talk about them today, as we are considering options for internal repairs.

We continue to inspect the walls. The next step is to determine their evenness. To do this, we need a rule or some long, even rail. It must be applied to the walls in different directions in order to identify inflowing or protruding places, and to determine the degree of evenness of the surface. If the errors are insignificant, then you don’t have to worry about leveling, but if they are noticeable, then, without re-plastering, you can use coarse grinding mixtures, which can be applied in thicker layers. Here we smoothly move on to the types of mixtures for their intended purpose.

Prices for various types of putties

Putties

Starting putty

Starting - in fact, this is already gypsum or cement plaster. These mixtures have a coarse grinding, which allows them to be applied in layers up to 5 cm, depending on the manufacturer and the characteristics of specific compositions.

Advice! All the necessary information is available on the packages, be sure to read before buying.

Due to such mixtures, with the help of a rule, without placing beacons, rather gross shortcomings of plasterers can be corrected.

Note! In general, if you plan to paint the walls, then it is worth getting confused over the alignment of the walls quite strongly, since such surfaces have one very unpleasant property. When sunlight falls on them at an angle from a window or from any other source, all the differences become noticeable, which is quite striking. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve, if not perfect evenness, then at least smooth and imperceptible transitions.

Finishing putty

Make smooth from the starting putty smooth surface impossible. For these purposes, finishing mixtures with the finest grinding are used. It is not difficult to understand that it is not allowed to apply them in large layers. The material is used to eliminate minor irregularities in the base and create a smooth surface.

Finishing putty "Volma"

Finishing mixtures have good plasticity and softness, which makes it easier to work with them. The average production time of the material after mixing is 30-40 minutes.

Universal putty

Agree, buying and using different types of putty separately is not the best thing to do, since they have different properties, they need to be allowed to dry well, it is difficult to calculate the amount of material, and so on. Much easier to buy universal composition, which has a medium grind and has absorbed the best properties of starter and finish mixtures into you. With it, it is easy to make the surface smooth (although you have to grind more), and the layer can be applied if necessary up to 1 cm. The material is suitable for both plastered walls and drywall.

Having dealt with all the specified parameters, and choosing the most suitable material, you can smoothly go to .

What you need to know about preparation

In this chapter, we will analyze not only the actions performed with the walls before applying putty, but also the required fixtures and materials for work.

Working tool and materials

Without a good, reliable tool, any job turns into torment. Puttying is no exception. Importantly, almost all the necessary equipment will not cost big money therefore, everything can be purchased at the same time as the materials.

Table 1. Required tools.

Tools, photo	Description
	A spatula with a wide blade will be our main tool. It has the following requirements: 1. Blade width from 30-35 cm - this will allow you to work more efficiently, capturing more area in one pass. By using a smaller tool, you are consciously adding work to yourself. Having got used to one tool, you can try to master a larger one. 2. The blade must be perfectly even, so inspect it carefully before buying. 3. The metal is taken hard, thick enough so that it does not bend much when pressed. 4. Choose the handle that is most comfortable for your hand and grip. Average quality tool, which will meet all the criteria, will cost you 700-1000 rubles.
	The second spatula should be narrow. It is used for part-time jobs and picking up a mixture from a bucket. This tool, unlike the first one, is better to choose flexible. The average blade width is 10 cm. Interesting to know! Some craftsmen prefer to hold a trowel in their second hand, or even putty on it. It's like someone is used to it.
	You can use both a professional mixer and its substitutes in the face of an electric drill and a perforator with an appropriate nozzle. In any case, you should choose a tool with the ability to adjust the rotation speed.
	It is most convenient to knead the putty in a deep bucket. You can take a special building one, or use what was left from water-based paint or putty.
	When puttying, a brush is indispensable. The fact is that it is impossible to clean the bucket from the old batch with a spatula - there are always particles that will dry out, fall into the fresh mixture, and ruin it. If you try to putty it, then untidy furrows will constantly remain on the wall, which spoil the whole look and your nerves. Therefore, after each batch, the bucket is washed clean and brushed with water.
	Even the finishing putty must be sanded. To do this, we need such a grater or an electric grinder. As consumables, an abrasive mesh and sandpaper are used for them. The size of the abrasive fraction is selected in accordance with the type of tasks performed.

We use the following materials:

Construction mixer price

construction mixer

Wall preparation

So, let's imagine that we have a wall plastered with plaster in front of us. We perform the following steps in order.

Step 1 - cleaning the walls. No matter how hard the plasterers try, there will always be frozen influxes and particles of debris on the walls. So that all this does not interfere with puttying, the walls must be well pre-cleaned. We take some old spatula and systematically remove everything named from the walls. We advise you to probe the surfaces along the way with your free hand in order to find particles of gypsum that are invisible to the eye.

Advice! If the work takes place in the bathroom, it is best to use soil with antiseptic additives. It will eliminate mold, if any, and prevent it from multiplying in the future.

Usually it takes from 4 hours, depending on the material used. Before use, be sure to read the instructions on the package. We advise you to prepare in the evening so as not to waste time waiting for nothing.

It is better to prime the walls again so that they draw less moisture from the putty. This is very important, as a fast-drying mixture is very difficult to level and evenly distribute.

The walls are now ready for plastering. We will describe how this is done in the next chapter.

Deep penetration primer prices

Deep penetration primer

Wall puttying

To get perfectly smooth walls for painting, you will have to apply at least three layers of putty, or work very hard with a grater, grinding the surface. The best craftsmen make 5-6 layers - such difficulties are required not only for painting, but also when sticking expensive thin French wallpapers, for example. Each new layer will be thinner and thinner, better leveling the treated surface. The technique for applying them will be slightly different, but let's talk about everything in order.

Step 1 - prepare the mixture. So, we start by diluting the putty to the desired consistency. This is considered the consistency of sour cream, but you must admit that the concept is a bit vague. You yourself will understand the optimal density of putty when you start working. From our own experience, we can say that you need to achieve such a consistency that the mixture does not drain from the spatula, but at the same time stretches well.

Step 1 - preparing the mixture

You should knead in small portions if you took the spatula in your hands for the first time. You need to get a feel for the process before you start increasing the amount of material produced. Make sure that you have time to use up all before it solidifies in a bucket.

We collect the mixture from the bucket with the left hand (for right-handers) with a small spatula and evenly distribute it along the large blade.

Then, starting from any corner, stretch along the wall, pressing the spatula at an angle of about 45 degrees. We collect the excess mixture from the edges of the main tool with a small spatula and distribute it again. Something like this manipulation resembles sharpening knives against each other.

Do not try to immediately remove the putty evenly. Apply it in a thick layer and collect the excess only after 60 seconds with a clean spatula. So you get fewer grooves and get rid of the slippage effect of the mixture, which is especially important when puttying drywall. Go through the entire wall in this manner.

There is no need to wait for the first layer to dry completely. If this happens, then it will need to be sanded, primed again, wait for it to dry and only then apply a new one. All this is extremely long, inconvenient, and leads to unnecessary costs of materials, time and effort of the master.

It is much easier, while the first layer is still wet, but has already managed to seize so that the repeated drawing does not violate its integrity (15-20 minutes after application), immediately smear the next layer. Just do not forget to clean off the layers with a spatula if they remain.

Its thickness will be less. When applying to the spatula, you should press harder and keep it almost perpendicular to the wall, as shown in the photo above. In fact, we are making a “zero” layer, on a sdir. This technique allows you to fill the smallest grooves.

Each new layer will make the wall more even and smooth, but there will always be places that are invisible to the eye in overhead lighting. To eliminate flaws, direct oblique side light from any source onto the wall. This will allow you to show all the differences that are noticeable to the eye.

We putty until we get a perfectly flat wall.

As soon as you achieve a result that suits you, leave the wall to dry well - this will take at least 12 hours.

After that, the most “fun” part begins - grinding. Stock up on a hat, respirator, goggles and gloves, as there will be a lot of dust in the room. Next, using a grinding tool, we rub the walls to a perfectly smooth state, which can be controlled by stroking with the palm of your hand.

Finished surfaces are cleaned of dust with brushes and a vacuum cleaner, after which they are primed. Now the walls are completely ready for painting.

Video - Preparing walls for painting

How to putty drywall

Puttying the main area of drywall is carried out in the same way as we described above. The difference lies in surface preparation. If you have seen drywall sheathed walls, you should be aware of the existence of seams and open caps of self-tapping screws that must first be hidden.

For this, a special putty is used. One of the available and quality materials with desired properties is Knauf Fugen.

We glue all seams on the surface with fiberglass mesh. Perforated corners are installed on the outer corners, which can be strengthened with the same putty, self-tapping screws or staples through a stapler.

The diluted putty is hammered into the seams directly through the sickle with perpendicular movements, after which the excess is removed with a wide spatula. The task is to achieve the closure of the grid and not get out of the plane.

After the first layer has dried, a second one is made, which aligns the seams in the same plane with drywall.

Important! The embroidered end seams will protrude beyond the plane of the drywall, due to the lack of a cavity, so it is important to make the least noticeable transitions in these places.

Step 3 - embedding self-tapping screws on drywall. The same putty closes up the caps of the self-tapping screws. Everything is simple and very clear here.

Step 3 - embedding self-tapping screws on drywall

Video - Plasterboard putty

Today we will consider in detail how to apply putty on the wall. After all, a finishing material will be applied to this layer, and the surface must be prepared with high quality.
For example, after applying paint, all errors will be visible. Therefore, the plane must be even and smooth. When working, you must immediately determine how many layers of putty you need to apply.
After all, a very large layer is not immediately applied, it will be necessary to do this work in several stages. Also in the video in this article you can watch the whole process and then do everything yourself.

How to properly apply the finishing putty on the wall, now we will consider in more detail. Let's go through all the points.
Not only the quality of the coating, but also its appearance and durability will completely depend on the correct execution of this work. Before starting work, it is worth looking at the photo of the materials, you must initially choose the final type of finish according to the interior of the room.

Used material for finishing putty

For self-puttying the walls, you will need the following set of tools.

Drill with mixer attachment	In most cases, homeowners purchase dry putty and prepare it immediately before work. To stir the mixture with water, you will need to use a special mixer that will get rid of lumps in the mixture. When using such a mixer, you can get a homogeneous mixture that will be of high quality.
Spatulas of various sizes	For this work, you will have to use at least two spatulas - one small and the second large with a size of 50 centimeters. A small spatula is necessary for working in hard-to-reach places, which improves the quality of the application of the mixture.
Primer brushes and rollers	Many homeowners skip the wall priming step to save money. However, it is not recommended to do this, as the primer improves the strength of the finishing materials and improves the adhesion of the putty to the wall. To work with uneven walls, when you need to apply putty in a thick layer, use a rule that will allow you to easily level the putty on a large wall plane.
Laser or water level	In the process of work, it is necessary to align the walls, and a level is used to control this work. As a rule, before proceeding directly to work, special beacons are mounted, on which the finishing putty is subsequently leveled using the rule.
Sandpaper	To get perfect flat surface putty wall, you must use sandpaper, which is applied after the putty has dried (see How to sand the walls after putty and how to do it correctly). To obtain ideal results, we recommend using a sandpaper with an index of 240. The smallest skins are recommended to be used when applying the finishing putty. Whereas when laying the starting putty, coarse skins are used. To simplify the sanding of the walls, you can use a manual skinner, which can significantly simplify and improve the quality of this stage of work.
Empty container	Also, for work, you will need a container of 10 - 20 liters, in which we will stir the putty.

Choosing a putty for working with walls

How to properly apply putty on the walls is decided after choosing the material. Depending on its composition, putty is usually divided into cement, polymer and gypsum.
Let us consider in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each type of putty:

One of the advantages of using gypsum putties is the affordable cost and ease of leveling. Of the shortcomings, we can note only mediocre resistance to moisture, which somewhat limits the scope of the use of gypsum putty.
Cement putty, on the contrary, perfectly withstands prolonged exposure to moisture, but is subject to shrinkage.
Polymer putty does not shrink and has excellent moisture resistance. With the help of this finishing material, walls of various structures can be easily processed. The disadvantage of polymer putty is its rather high cost.

All putties, depending on the scope of their application, can be divided into decorative, starting and leveling. Also in recent years, universal putties have become popular.

Leveling starter putties are distinguished by their large grain size, moisture resistance and excellent strength indicators. It is recommended to use this putty immediately after applying the plaster. The thickness of the layer can vary from 3 to 20 millimeters. The thickness depends on the general condition of the treated surface.
To ensure maximum durability of the treated surface, it is recommended to apply a finishing putty to the leveling mixture. This will give the surface a perfectly smooth appearance.
Processing with finishing putty is not difficult and is carried out using emery skins. The application layer is usually from 3 to 5 millimeters.
Universal putties have the characteristics of a leveling mixture and decorative putties. They have a fairly high cost, but at the same time they can significantly simplify the work performed. Universal putties are recommended for use when working with walls that do not have significant flaws.
In specialized stores, you can easily purchase both ready-to-use mixtures and dry putties, which are distinguished by their affordable cost, ease of use and long shelf life.
Ready-made putties are easy to use, since you do not need to use a mixer, and the mixture already has a homogeneous structure. Working time is saved, and when performing repair work, there is practically no dust.
At the same time, it must be borne in mind that prepared finishing putties have a slightly higher cost than dry ones. You should also take into account the fact that ready-made putties shrink slightly, so they must be applied in a large layer.
The shelf life of finished putties is several months, so they must be quickly used in repair work.

Attention: When choosing a material, you should first of all think about the environment in which the coating will be located. If indoors high humidity. Then, when buying, the instructions for the material should be studied. It must be moisture resistant.

Preparing the walls for work

When applying putty, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the walls:

We prepare the walls for puttying

The surface must be absolutely clean, so any stains of soot, paint or grease must be removed. In the event that traces of peeling plaster are found, it is necessary to carry out deep surface preparation.
It is also not recommended to start work in the presence of frozen sections of the walls, which worsens the quality of the applied putty.
Before starting repair work, it is required to cover the wall with a primer. This will ensure maximum adhesion of the wall and putty mortar. The walls are primed with a small roller, which allows you to evenly apply the primer solution. One coat of primer is sufficient.

In specialized stores, you can purchase starting, lighthouse or finishing putty. Consider the scope of use of each of the materials.

Starting putty

As a starting putty, a coarse material with a large grain size is used. As a rule, there are no difficulties with finding and buying such material.

We apply the starting putty

Starting putty is designed to work with walls that have significant differences and numerous defects. Depending on the specific conditions, the thickness of the starting putty layer can be 1.5 centimeters.
You can apply the material in several layers, you just need to wait for the complete drying of the previous layer.
For the maximum quality of the work carried out, special masking nets are used, which allow you to firmly fix the putty on the surface of the walls and prevent the material from crumbling and exfoliating in the future. The walls, when using a paint grid, are puttied solid. The surface becomes even, which reduces the complexity of subsequent surface treatment.

Lighthouse wall putty

The difference in the use of this type of putty is the need to use beacons, which can be used as a metal, gypsum or wooden lath.

Apply lighthouse putty

All beacons are leveled and attached to the walls with gypsum mixture. Surface treatment with finishing putty can only be started after the complete hardening of the gypsum fixation of the beacons.
Spatulas and a long rule can be used to apply putty, which makes it easier to work with large walls.
To control the quality of the work performed, it is necessary to use the level

Finishing wall putty

After applying the starting or lighthouse mixture, they begin to perform the finishing putty.

Apply the finish in a thin layer

Attention: This work is carried out with the help of special compounds that have a minimum grain size, which, after appropriate processing, allows you to get a perfectly smooth surface of the walls.

It is necessary to apply the finishing putty with a minimum layer, which will ensure a spectacular appearance of the coating and save costs for repair work.
To reduce material consumption, it is necessary to level the surface even when applying the starting putty, which will reduce the complexity of the work performed. In this case, you will be relieved of the need for a long and laborious sanding procedure.

Puttying cracks in the walls

To eliminate existing cracks in the walls, it is recommended to use special gypsum putties.

This material is flexible and easy to work with.

One of the features of gypsum plasters is their hardening time and the need for pre-treatment of surfaces before applying the plaster.
To improve adhesion, it is recommended to scratch existing cracks with a sharp object, which will subsequently improve adhesion to gypsum plaster.
You can also use a primer, and then putty cracks.

Attention: The primer of the walls must be done necessarily. Then the adhesion of the surfaces will increase significantly and this will increase the life of the finish.

Putty application technology

If you use dry putty, you must prepare it in full accordance with the instructions.
The sequence of preparation of putty:

Pour a small amount of water into the used container.
Stir the mixture with a spatula.
Next, you will need a drill with a mixer attachment, with which we will mix the mixture and gradually add water.

Attention: According to its consistency, the prepared mortar should be elastic and stick to the spatula.

We apply the prepared starting putty to the walls. This is easiest to do with a large spatula.
It is necessary to apply the mixture in medium portions, evenly distributing it over the surface.
It is necessary to hold the spatula at an angle of 30 degrees to the surface.
To avoid the appearance of bumps and transitions, subsequent layers must be applied with an overlap.
In the event that there are certain defects when applying the starting putty, they can be eliminated by using the finishing material.
For the best possible application of putty in the corners, it is recommended to use a small angled spatula. With this angled spatula, you can accurately level the applied mixture in hard-to-reach places.

Attention: Remember that the putty dries after a day, so work can be started 24 hours after applying the previous layer. The thickness of the starting putty layer should be about 2 centimeters.

Before proceeding with further wall decoration, it is necessary to wait for the material to dry completely. It takes about 12 hours for the finishing putty to dry.
Only after that you can start grinding the surface with sandpaper. Sanding can also be done using a special grinder, which simplifies this work.

Attention: If you plan to apply several layers of putty, it is necessary to treat the surface with a primer before applying each new layer.

How to putty walls for wallpapering or painting

Finishing putty how to apply before wallpapering, now we'll talk. The walls must be leveled with two layers of putty.
If the walls have significant differences, it is recommended to use three or more layers of material:

If it is planned to paint the walls, they must be leveled not only with the help of starting plaster, but also with finishing.
Treat the surface with the sandpaper as carefully and accurately as possible, which will allow you to get rid of the existing surface imperfections.

Putty procedure:

Apply a thin first layer of leveling putty.
Next, two or three more layers of putty are applied.
Wait about a day for the material to dry.
A finishing putty is applied, which allows you to eliminate minor defects.
After the putty has dried, rub the wall with sandpaper.

Now you know how to apply finishing putty on the walls. The price of the material is not so high, but everything must be done with high quality. Then the coating will please you and not change for a long time.

Wall priming, plastering, puttying are basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plaster, primer after plaster, putty, sanding, coating paintwork material or overlay wallpaper. Puttying the walls after plastering is considered a finishing preparatory operation.

Even though today plastering is provided by a wide choice of materials for internal works and exterior finish, and having done the work, you can achieve the ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing with gypsum plaster - the procedure is not necessarily included in the order of repair work) - financial expenses for such plastering works are extremely high.

The classification of putty materials was carried out according to several criteria. The sequence of grouping is determined by key factors and properties of putty, combining mixtures into the following classes:

Oil-glue. If you need the cheapest mixture - the group is suitable. It is not known whether oil solutions will continue to have a future, because they are already considered the last century. The main disadvantage is the manifestation of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.

Gypsum cement. Materials are much more expensive. Are intended for a full complex of finishing operations of the general orientation. In domestic products, most often, they contain more cement than gypsum. According to the cement and gypsum base, the main purpose of the powder was determined for the masters - having covered a layer of plaster with soil, you most likely putty the walls with the composition for further wallpapering.

Water-dispersion. Also from the category of gypsum cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, the container is a bucket. The advantage is that you do not need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the products are already ready for use.

Acrylic. After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except for oil) will appear.

Workflow steps

Surface cleaning

When is puttying the walls after old plaster, obsolete wallpaper and layers of paint must be removed. A special wash helps to eliminate the remnants of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls should dry out - they are left for about a day.

Drying is followed by a thorough visual check: missed small parts are cleaned with a mounting knife or a thin spatula.

Relief inspection

The relief plane is examined with a flashlight, wielding the building rule: it is applied to the surface, the flashlight shines along the wall. The smallest depressions and protrusions are obvious. Rough bumps should be beaten off on the spot with a planer or a sharp spatula, and the notches should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.

Related article: Peculiarities fiberglass wallpaper for painting

Instrument preparation

Before starting the repair process, the entire set of tools is scrupulously wiped with a rag from dust, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the wiped objects. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of solutions from previous batches on the mixer from a drill and a mixing container - lumps of old solutions need to be picked out.

Preparation of putty mixture

The process of preparing the solution is not complicated:

Running water is drawn into the container (the construction bucket is filled by a quarter, the usual one by a third).
Gradually fall asleep dry powder until the tip of the "iceberg" is above the water.
Wait up to 30 seconds until the powder absorbs water and sags: no dry formations should remain.
With a quick, measured movement, using a nozzle on a drill, kneading is carried out for 2 minutes. (a drill is preferred, but hand-drilling is also acceptable).
Expect 30-60 sec.
Re-mixing is done. The consistency is brought to the ideal - the solution is ready.

Under no circumstances should the finished solution be diluted with additional water or dry powder. We'll have to work with what we've got. In case of shortcomings, the putty composition will tolerate excess liquid, after solidification, it is always possible to walk around the area with an abrasive and do homework where necessary.

Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after kneading: it is better to knead in several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with a smaller one, calculating the amount that will be needed for one stroke.

Relief leveling

Small recesses and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, based on the size of the defect. Grouting is carried out with wide movements crosswise with the same effort to a flat surface without sags and burrs.

A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, pressing, stretch the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to a quick correct dispersal with periodic identical force exposure from several sides.

On the video: the process of puttying the wall with your own hands.

Hardening of the putty layer

When hardening putty, it is necessary to use all precautions, as for hardening plaster: through air currents, direct sunlight, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but the putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will only appear at the stage of wallpapering or painting.

Indoor air circulation should be adjusted, without drafts and temperature fluctuations. More specifically, you can open the room door, but leave the balcony door closed. For the corridor - to allow air to circulate from the living rooms, tightly shutting the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.

The instructions for use most often indicate the drying time of the coating up to 16 hours, in fact - 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to grind the layer not earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.

Puttying under the wallpaper

For the purpose of further wallpapering, the putty is initially carried out with a wide spatula, overlapping with each next layer up to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting "sausages" do not grind. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 o, constant pressure should be observed, which will help to distribute the material in an even layer of 2 to 4 mm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the more it leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more - to a thin one. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when it goes beyond its limits, bumps and discontinuities form on the surface.

The next step is to dry the layer, remove the sags with a jointer with an abrasive and check the smoothness with building rule and a lantern. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with an abrasive, recesses - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced master can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface becomes perfect.

At the end of the manipulations and a long solidification, a jointer with a mesh of size range 80-120 is passed along the wall (with an increase in the number, the abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked out in circular strokes, after which, loosening the grip, with crosswise movements in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.

Then the wall is again aligned with the building rule with a lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from under the rule, the surface is ready, after a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.

Puttying followed by painting

The technological process is different from puttying followed by wallpapering in one operation: after the final leveling and rubbing with abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it will be painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then the finishing mixture must be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.

Grouting occurs with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.

For mirror painting, the wall is polished with everything else with a grinding trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging of the material.

Related article: The technology of puttying concrete and plasterboard ceilings

The nuances of puttying corners and slopes

Inexperienced craftsmen are often advised to apply more than the required norm to the corners of the material, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when, before puttying, it is planned to ask to skim any area with a gun, physical costs can be reduced, while at the same time increasing the efficiency of the result.

Work plan:

When the silicone is used up, the tube must be unwound, the remnants removed and wiped with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving it empty.
The wall has dried up - the tube must be filled with putty and slowly squeezed out into the slot of the corner. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from the bottom up in one approach.
Then they work out with an angular spatula, leaning on the surface, similarly to plastering on beacons.
After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.

Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used when baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and tape fixation, the confectionery syringe is fixed in the gun like a glove.

At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angled trowel to choose from any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, and checks the smoothness with the building rule. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to step up to two times.

Puttying tips (2 videos)

What you may need (25 photos)

Putty is one of the most affordable and fastest ways to prepare the surface of the walls for wallpaper. With the help of puttying, you can perfectly level the wall with potholes, cracks and other defects, so many people want to know how to properly putty the walls under the wallpaper in order to achieve the maximum effect. It is much easier to glue wallpaper on even walls than on curved ones - the glue is evenly absorbed and the risk of wrinkling of the canvas is reduced. In addition, putty eliminates minor irregularities that will be clearly visible under the wallpaper, especially in sunlight. In order to repair work carried out quickly and efficiently, it is necessary to observe some important rules, including when choosing a material for puttying.

To putty the walls before pasting the wallpaper, you will need the following set of tools:

Drill with a nozzle "mixer". The putty mixture is most often sold in dry form, and to bring it to the required consistency, it must be diluted with water. It is possible to ideally stir the composition to a homogeneous mass without lumps only with the help of such a nozzle. In the absence of a mixer, you can purchase ready-made putty, which does not require pre-mixing.
Spatulas of various sizes. For corners and other hard-to-reach areas, a small spatula is used, and for the rest of the surface, a tool 40-50 cm wide is used.
Brushes and foam rollers. These devices allow you to perform high-quality primer walls. This step is not recommended to be skipped, as a thin layer of primer ensures good adhesion between the wall and the wallpaper.
Rule. This tool is necessary when working with uneven walls, when the putty is applied in a thick layer and the likelihood of uneven distribution of the material over the entire surface increases.
Sandpaper. Used to eliminate transitions between layers, small bumps and depressions. Fine-grained paper and a manual skinner are best suited for these purposes, which facilitates the grinding process.

VIDEO LESSON: All about wall puttying

The choice of material for puttying work

Depends on the quality of the wallpaper general form interior, so the questions of how to putty the walls under the wallpaper and what material to choose will always be relevant.

Most often, the following grades of materials are used for puttying surfaces under wallpaper:

For those who first decided to carry out independent wall puttying, experts recommend using a ready-made water-polymer mixture, which is sold in plastic packages, has an optimal consistency and is easy to apply.

Primer as an important stage of puttying

A primer is a special composition that forms a waterproof film, so that the wallpaper adheres better to the surface.

There are the following types of primer solutions:

Acrylic. Suitable for all surfaces, including concrete, cement, wood, brick, plywood and plaster. The material does not have a specific smell, dries within 5 hours and is most often used for pasting wallpaper.
Alkyd. Used for finishing wooden walls in country houses. The drying time of this primer is no more than 15 hours.
Glyphthalic. Designed for finishing surfaces made of wood and metal in rooms with a low level of humidity, they dry out for about a day.
Perchlorovinyl. Suitable for concrete, metal, brick and plaster walls, drying time at room temperature is 1 hour.

Surface preparation for puttying

To successfully refresh the interior, you must clearly understand how to putty the walls under the wallpaper, otherwise all efforts will be reduced to zero.

Before you start puttying with your own hands, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the walls of grease, paint, dust, falling layers of plaster and wallpaper residues. When withdrawing paper wallpaper no difficulties arise, for this it is enough to moisten them well. But often situations arise when removing old wallpaper becomes a real problem, this applies to glass or canvases pasted on drywall. If the material fits snugly against the wall and does not form voids and bubbles, you can putty on old wallpaper, while the layer should not exceed 1 mm, otherwise the hardened putty may peel off along with the wallpaper.

Important! If fungal damage and mold are found on the walls, it is necessary to treat the surface with an antiseptic solution. Sharp protrusions and bumps should be cut off with a metal spatula, and large recesses should be pre-plastered.

The final stage preparatory work is the application of one thin layer of primer, after which it is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the solution and proceed with puttying.

Starting putty

Even if at first glance the walls seem even and need only partial processing, at least two layers of putty should be applied. For plasterboard walls, one layer will suffice, and at the same time, the joints of the material should be carefully repaired.

Starting puttying is designed to eliminate significant wall differences, hide strobes and holes, the layer thickness in this case can reach 1.5 cm. For starting finishing, special putty is used, which is designed to fill joints, seal breathing cracks and joints of floor slabs.

VIDEO: Starting wall puttying

Advice! In order to perform the starting putty as efficiently as possible, experts recommend installing a special paint grid on the wall and evenly distributing the mixture over it.

Each subsequent layer is applied after thorough drying and polishing of the previous one. If there are no significant defects on the walls, the stage of starting putty can be skipped.

Applying the final layer

If the wall is relatively flat, then one finishing layer will be enough; if the surface was previously plastered, then 2-3 layers of putty will have to be applied. The drying period of each layer can be up to 10-12 hours, after which the surface is polished to eliminate sagging and other irregularities. The final layer before pasting the wallpaper must be applied with a wide spatula, from 30 cm, moving crosswise with an overlap on the already treated area. In order for the layer to have an optimal thickness of 2-3 mm, and the putty does not leave bumps and uneven edges, it is necessary to hold the spatula at an angle of 25-30 degrees to the wall, while all movements must have the same pressing force. After each layer, it is necessary to check the surface for evenness with the help of a rule and a flashlight, and eliminate the identified defects with the next layer.

Another way to treat the corners is to apply a little more mixture on them, and after drying, remove the excess by grinding.

After the wall dries for about a day, until the material finally hardens, after which the entire surface must be treated with sandpaper or an abrasive planer.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself finishing putty for wallpaper

It should be noted that finishing putty is suitable for leveling old walls with significant irregularities and cracks, as well as before applying one-color paint, which makes wall defects more noticeable. In new houses, as a rule, such a need does not arise, and small irregularities are eliminated by repeated plastering. In addition, modern wallpapers are thick enough to independently hide existing flaws and level the walls.