Finishing the bath: the choice of material and the principle of operation. Bath do-it-yourself interior decoration Interior decoration of a bath from a bar

The arrangement of the bath requires a careful selection of materials for construction. Finishing the room from the inside is especially important, because the comfort of operation depends on it. This task can be carried out using a variety of materials and finishes, each of which has its own characteristics.

Interior decoration of the bath: purpose and features

The classic Russian bath includes three main rooms: a steam room, a washing room and a vestibule. Additionally, there may be a lounge, billiard room and other facilities. In any case, interior decoration is necessary, which not only creates comfort, but is also needed to create an optimal atmosphere and keep warm.

The bath building can be built from timber or another type of wood. This material is available, in demand and effective. Log buildings for summer use do not need complicated finishing. A bathhouse on a log house should have well-caulked lower crowns; from the inside, the walls do not require additional materials. This is due to the fact that wood is able to "breathe", removing moisture and steam to the outside. The use of synthetic insulation will disrupt this process. However, thermal insulation is necessary for a winter bath, clapboard trim is appropriate. Log walls look aesthetically pleasing and without additional finishing.

The construction of foam blocks is reliable, it is used at any time of the year, but needs interior decoration. In the steam room, the lining is almost always used, under which layers of hydro and thermal insulation are placed. In the rest room and locker room, it is appropriate to use ceramic tiles, PVC panels, lining. Walls made of foam blocks are pre-treated with antiseptic compounds. The floor is often finished with ceramic tiles with an anti-slip surface, which provides comfort.

Brick is rarely used for the construction of baths, but such structures are reliable, very durable, and environmentally friendly. Brick buildings do not need outdoor decoration, but inside you can use porcelain stoneware for the floor, ceramic tiles, lining. In the locker room, the walls are often trimmed PVC panels, but they are not suitable for the steam room due to the high temperature in the room.

Wooden lining made of larch is a universal solution for the interior decoration of the bath. This material is affordable, practical and durable. If a more reliable coating of walls or floors is required, then porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles are used. A bath made of any building material requires an interior finish that will provide comfort, aesthetics and protect the main walls from moisture.

Interior finishing options

All bath rooms are exposed to high humidity, which requires a careful choice of material for interior decoration. There are several basic options, each of which has certain properties. Advantages, disadvantages, purpose and features of operation must be taken into account when choosing an option for interior decoration of a bath from any material.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of materials

Material	Advantages	Flaws	Optimal application
Clapboard made of wood	Eco-friendly, nice texture, the possibility of combining with other materials, variety of wood species	Difficult installation and maintenance exploitation, durability, fire hazard	For walls in any room of the bath, built from any material
Ceramic tile, porcelain stoneware	Durability and reliability, resistance to mechanical and chemical influences, wide choice, durability, environmental friendliness, fire safety	It's important to follow the rules installation, high cost, uncomfortable texture	In any room of the bath for finishing the floor, walls, firebox
PVC panels	Affordable price, variety of colors, easy installation, easy maintenance during operation	fragility, low stability to high temperatures, brittleness	For dressing room, rest room, shower room

Photo gallery: lining options

Log walls make the bath cozy and do not require additional finishing. The combination of lining and ceramic tiles - practical solution
All surfaces inside the steam room can be finished with clapboard
The lining is easy to mount both on the ceiling and on the walls Clapboard trim is convenient for a small steam room Clapboard can be easily combined with stone and tile Relaxation room is easy to decorate luxuriously

Choice of finish

The interior decoration of the bath performs not only an aesthetic function, but also provides comfort, an optimal atmosphere in the premises. Therefore, materials for arranging a steam room, shower room, rest room or other space must meet the following requirements:

• environmental friendliness, non-toxicity, safety for human health when the material is heated;
• resistance to mechanical, temperature loads;
• easy care during operation;
• simple installation technology.

Popular materials such as wood and ceramic tiles meet these requirements. They are easily combined with each other, allowing you to create a comfortable and safe environment inside any bath room.

When choosing a material, its purpose is taken into account. The tile is appropriate for the floor and walls, and the ceiling is decorated with planed boards and clapboard. This combination is optimal for a shower room, and in a steam room, often all surfaces are made of wood. This allows you to create comfort and spectacular atmosphere of the Russian bath. Suitable for drier conditions stretch ceiling, but do not make drywall constructions. This is due to high humidity in all areas of the bath, and drywall is unstable to moisture.

Wood and lining from different breeds wood are popular materials for interior decoration of the bath. This is due to the fact that wood is available, environmentally friendly, and the installation of elements does not require special preparation. For a bath, such wood species as larch, aspen, abachi, alder are optimal. They are durable, resistant to moisture and temperature extremes.

Preparation: calculation of the working area

Before starting work, you should calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsurfaces that need finishing. Lining is used for walls and ceilings, and the floor is built from boards. For a quality finish, high quality wood with the lowest resin content is required. Therefore, pine is rarely a material for arrangement, as it releases resin.

The decoration of each room consists of several stages. Installation is done first floor covering, which is a flooring made of boards with a thickness of 50 mm. The elements are laid on logs 300 mm high, which are installed on a sand cushion, equipped on the ground. After that, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls and ceiling is calculated, which they plan to finish with clapboard. To do this, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall, ceiling and add up the data.

Material selection and calculation

Larch lining is the best solution for finishing a steam room or a washing room. Under the influence of time, humidity, its wood becomes harder, which makes the interior decoration durable. When choosing a lining, you should pay attention to the following features:

• lining for finishing a steam room, washing should be marked "class Extra" or "class A". Such material is devoid of large knots, has a uniform structure, a flat surface;
• wooden elements should not have signs of decay, cracks, deformation. Smooth and dense lining is easy to install and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• finishing requires not only lining, but also steam and heat-insulating materials. Finishing is carried out only after the installation of these layers;
• the thickness of the board must be at least 12.5 mm, the tenon of 8 mm corresponds to the depth of the groove. Humidity of material - no more than 12%;
• high-quality material has a flat, smooth surface.

It is also important to correctly calculate the amount of material. Lining is often calculated in square meters. In this case, its number is equal to the area of ​​​​working surfaces. This figure should be increased by 5%, since material damage is possible during operation, so lining is purchased with a margin.

To work, you need bars or thin slats. If the thermal insulation of the bath was carried out outside, then only the installation of vapor barrier and finishing are carried out inside. Therefore, you need to purchase a vapor barrier film that will provide comfort indoors. Otherwise, the insulation is carried out from the inside and you will need a heater, a waterproofing film and bars for the crate.

Video: how to choose a lining

Tools and Consumables

The construction and arrangement of any object requires the use of reliable tools. Of particular importance in the construction of a bath is the quality of fastening materials, because the durability of the finish depends on it.

List of tools and consumables:

• construction stapler with staples;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• building level;
• nails;
• self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coating;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• hacksaw.

Tools need to be prepared in advance, and fasteners purchased with a margin. This makes it possible to securely fix all materials and elements.

Step-by-step instructions for interior decoration of the bath

Wall decoration is carried out after the installation of heat and vapor barrier. To do this, you need to attach vertical or horizontal bars to the wall, the distance between which is equal to the width of the insulation used. A waterproofing film is fixed with brackets over the racks, and then the insulation is also fixed on the brackets or glue. After that, a vapor barrier layer is attached, which protects the supporting structures from condensate.

Sheathing the walls of the bath from the inside involves the following steps:

1. Rails are fixed on top of the vapor barrier film, the distance between which should be 50 cm. A gap of 3 cm should be left between the vertical rails of the frame and the ceiling and the same distance from the floor side. This is necessary for the shrinkage of the structure.
2. TO wooden surface without internal insulation the slats are fastened with self-tapping screws, and to the brick base - with dowels. At the same time, it is important to control the verticality of the rails with a plumb line, and check the plane with cords stretched between the extreme bars. Clamps are installed on the back side of the lining board, after which the panel is attached to the crate with nails.
3. Next, a canvas is assembled from the lining, inserting one element into the groove of the other. A clamp is attached to the back wall of each panel, with the help of which the lining is fixed to the crate. You can also fix the parts simply on nails, deepening their hats into the wood. The step between the fasteners is about 60 cm. It is important to connect the parts tightly, but leave a gap of about 2 mm, as the wood swells from moisture.

Lathing when lining walls with clapboard is necessary for walls made of any materials. The bars allow you to create a ventilation gap, and the vapor barrier film ensures the removal of moisture. This preserves the quality of the supporting structures and the appearance of the finish. The ceiling is sheathed with clapboard using the same technology, having previously fixed the vapor barrier film.

Video: preparing the ceiling for clapboard cladding

Finishing a bath with clapboard is a popular method of arrangement. At the same time, wood is successfully combined with ceramic tiles, stone. Therefore, the interior decoration of the bath can be varied, but it is important to choose the installation technology suitable material.

Building a bath is only half the job. After the construction is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the decoration. Interior decoration performs not only an aesthetic function. It includes a whole range of functions for the protection of walls, floors, ceilings. It is also necessary to make bath furniture to complete the interior of the room. To perform the work, you can invite a team of specialists. However, if there is a desire and some knowledge in this area, everything can be done independently. In the article we will tell you how to make the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands, show photo and video instructions.

Interior decoration begins with the choice of material. Most often, a tree is used for this. But not every wood material is suitable. This is especially true when it comes to a steam room, where there will always be high temperatures and high humidity.

Some materials release substances hazardous to health at high temperatures.

1. Pine. Pine wood releases resins at high temperatures. These substances can be hazardous to the health of people who bathe in the bath. Therefore, in no case should pine boards be used.
2. Fiberboard and chipboard. These materials release toxins and can lead to poisoning. Plus, they swell.
3. Linoleum. It is not used for the same reason. He highlights harmful substances, rots and collapses.

What can not be used in the steam room is perfect for the dressing room and rest room. It is best to finish the dressing room with pine. Wood will give a pleasant aroma to the room and make it possible to enjoy a real Russian bath.

The lining made of linden and larch is best suited for finishing the steam room.

For a steam room, it is better to use larch. This is a very durable material that will last for years. It does not collapse from high temperatures and humidity. Another good option for a steam room is linden.

It is better to use wood in the form of lining. The panels are easy to install, "breathe" and can be easily replaced. Lining is an ideal finishing material, especially when you consider that a heat-insulating layer will be located under the finish.

Finishing process

Before you make the interior decoration of the bath, you need to understand the intricacies of the process. Finishing wood and brick bath produced in almost the same way.

Work starts from the bottom up: from the floor to the ceiling.

1. The floor is laid first. It is not recommended to use oak boards here, they are very slippery. It is better to use a larch edged board. It is better to raise the floor in the steam room by ten centimeters to ensure heat retention.
2. The shelves must be raised above the level of the oven by 10-15 cm.
3. After that, you need to sheathe the walls. The lining is installed on the crate.
4. When the walls are decorated, you can start working on the ceiling.
5. Finishing is completed, now it is necessary to proceed with the installation of various equipment and furniture for the bath. All this can be bought.

Advantages

Linden lining is a rather expensive material. However, it is best to choose it for finishing the steam room. Linden lining has a number of advantages, it:

• resistant to moisture and temperatures;
• "breathes";
• looks aesthetically pleasing;
• durable;
• smells good.

clapboard

1. Before starting work, the surfaces must be carefully leveled. If they are uneven, then the lining will turn out to be “waves”.
2. The material must be brought and left for one or two days to adapt to the microclimate.
3. Work begins with the installation of lathing. To do this, you need slats, which must be installed at a distance of 70 cm from each other. The outermost rails are attached first. The work uses a plumb line and a level. Self-tapping screws must be taken galvanized or stainless, because ordinary ones will very quickly collapse from corrosion. If the walls in the room are perfectly even, then you can try to install the lining without the crate. It is fastened with screws or special brackets directly to the wall. However, if there is no confidence in the evenness of the walls, then it is better not to risk it.
4. After installing the crate, you can begin the installation of the lining. This is a very simple process, it is accessible even to a beginner. The work is carried out using fasteners that are resistant to corrosion and high temperatures. This is the most easy way for novice masters who are interested in how to decorate a bath inside without special knowledge.

The need for vapor barrier

Bath - a place where there is always high humidity. However, a number of materials are perfectly ventilated. The question naturally arises, is it necessary to put a vapor barrier here? It all depends on what materials were used in the construction of the structure and in its decoration.

If a lining is installed, and the bath itself is wooden, then the vapor barrier may be redundant. The walls "breathe" so well. In brick structures, you will most likely have to install a vapor barrier. However, if the design provides good ventilation, you can do without it. The question of installing a vapor barrier is individual, and only the master can solve it.

Tile

Tiles are an inexpensive and practical material. True, it is better not to use it in the steam room, but in the washing and dressing room it will be just right. This material does not need to be replaced for a long period of time. The tile does not collapse from moisture and high temperatures, it does not rot and does not require maintenance.

There are several varieties of bath tiles, but there are two main types.

1. Glazed (enamelled).
2. Unenamelled.

For a bath perfect choice there will be a glazed type of tile. Such material is the most resistant to various influences. Non-enameled tiles do not tolerate temperature changes that occur constantly in the bath.

When choosing a tile, it is better to focus on those samples that have a rough surface. This will prevent slips and falls.

Leaning against the wall, it is better to be sure that it will not cause slipping. Therefore, not only the tiles on the floor should be rough, but also the tiles on the walls.

It is necessary to pay attention to what kind of base the tile has. It's better if it's smooth. A porous base can cause the spread of fungus.

As for the shape, the tiles are produced as traditionally squares and rectangles, as well as asterisks. Meet among the varieties and complex designs. It is better for a beginner to take a rectangular tile, as it fits very simply.

When buying, you need to know exactly how much material is needed. In this case, you need to buy 5-10% more tiles than required. After all, it is a very brittle material.

1. First, the tiles are soaked in water for a few minutes. This technique will save the master a decent amount of glue. The fact is that dry tiles will absorb adhesive, while wet tiles will not.
2. Laying tiles begins with the most noticeable corner in the room. In order to determine it, you need to look at the interior of the bath from the entrance.
3. Tile adhesive is applied to the surface. After the tile is put in place, you need to besiege its edges with a mallet. To apply glue, you will need a special spatula-"comb".
4. Spacers must be placed between tiles.
5. When the glue is completely dry, it remains to wipe the seams.

The tile looks great both on the floor and on the walls. The tiled mosaic looks especially beautiful. In some cases, the tiles need to be cut. It's not very difficult if you have a cutting tool. After the completion of the work, it remains only to choose furniture for the bath.

Bath is an amazing place for relaxation and recuperation. Therefore, it should be not only hot, but also comfortable. Each owner strives to give his bathhouse an attractive appearance both outside and inside. In this article, we bring to your attention some tips on how to equip, the interior decoration of which is no less important than the construction itself.

So, if you are planning to do the interior decoration of the bath yourself, then this article will come in handy for you. Here you will find and professional instructions for different types of finishes, and step by step photos important finishing works, and detailed videos that will help you solve your tasks at the highest level. Our advice will help you not to deviate from the principles of building technology when cladding, sheathing, etc.

Finishing inside the bath is the most important stage of construction. Its quality and level of performance determine not only the aesthetic characteristics of the bath, but also the atmosphere of coziness and comfort, the degree of convenience. In addition, the materials used for finishing directly affect the creation of a special microclimate in the bath and its healing properties. The main task of finishing is to make your stay in the bathhouse as pleasant, comfortable and useful as possible.

A modern Russian bath involves the presence of several rooms:

• vestibule;
• steam room;
• washing.

If you have built a large bath, then it is quite possible to equip an additional rest room, a billiard room, a kitchen area, a playground, a pool and much more in it. Theoretically, you can plan and build any bath, equipped with everything that you think is necessary and useful. However, this does not affect the basic defining requirements for the bath:

• all rooms should have an attractive and practical design;
• in the steam room there should be hot and pleasant steam;
• in the washing should be comfortable and safe.

Finish renders big influence on the functionality of the bath. Even if you used high-quality material for construction, which does not require mandatory interior decoration, it still needs to be done in the bath. Properly selected materials will allow you to create optimal conditions for comfortable rest, as well as significantly extend the life of walls, floors, ceilings. Materials are selected in accordance with the purpose and characteristics of a particular room. How best to finish the steam room, washing, vestibule, read below.

When planning the finishing of a steam room, take into account the following features of this room:

• The constant presence of heated steam coming in a concentrated and dense stream;
• Temperature fluctuations, heating to high temperatures;
• High level humidity.

The conditions in the steam room are, one might say, extreme. Many materials are simply not designed for use in such an environment. However, the modern widest range of finishing materials makes it possible to choose an option that will the best way to meet even such harsh conditions. We recommend paying attention to the sheathing board. Its characteristics must meet the following requirements:

• Low heat capacity, the ability to quickly warm up and not accumulate heat;
• moisture resistance;
• High aesthetic characteristics;
• Pleasant smell, no tar when heated;
• Resistance to fungus and mold;
• Air purification.

Today, there are several classes of lining:

• C-class. Differs in low cost. But for finishing the bath, its characteristics are not high enough.
• B-class. Such material may have contrasting spots, cracks, minor damage, resin pockets. This class includes material on which, for every 1.5 m of length, there are no more than four knots;
• A-class. May have shallow cracks. There should be no cores in the cut. No more than one knot per 1.5 m of length is allowed on each panel.
• Premium class. The highest quality and corresponding cost. The color is uniform, cores and knots are absent.

The most common profiles are eurolining, thorn-groove, Softline, Calm.

Linden lining shows excellent results as an interior finish for a bath. Its density is quite low, due to which it does not heat up very much in the steam room. However, it does not emit tar. Linden panels provide excellent sound insulation.

And also lining from other types of wood is suitable for solving this problem. For example, cedar and aspen have proven themselves well.

When choosing one or another material for sheathing, carefully inspect the panels. The wood must be dry, well-treated, and free of nicks, knots, and other obvious defects. A high-quality material must meet these requirements, and only it will provide an aesthetic, reliable, durable finish.

Additional processing by special means does not require the material for sheathing the steam room. Do not use antifungal, antiseptic compounds or paints and varnishes. All these products are harmful to humans, and when heated, they will begin to actively release their wood, making bath procedures more dangerous than useful.

Before proceeding with lining the clapboard, the steam room must be insulated. Available and time-tested material that is suitable for this purpose - mineral wool. It is the most sought after in this area. Another option, no less effective, is basalt wool. It successfully copes with the effects of high temperatures, so it will last a little longer than mineral wool. But if we talk about the ideal insulation for a steam room, then one cannot but recall the cork agglomerate. Among its advantages are hypoallergenicity, resistance to fungi and rot, fire resistance.

The floor in the steam room should be pleasant to the touch, non-slip, not cold and not too hot.

The washing room is designed not only to take a shower and wash yourself properly at a comfortable temperature. The washroom should have a place to relax, so you can leave the steam room for a while, treat yourself to massages, face and body masks and other relaxing and enjoyable treatments. It is necessary to think over all these possibilities before starting finishing work, and even better - at the construction stage.

In any case, the choice of finishing materials should be carried out taking into account all these functions of the washing room. The best option is wood or ceramic tiles. If for a steam room you can choose among hardwoods, then only conifers are suitable for a washing room - pine, spruce, larch. It is very easy to explain this choice. Softwood is resinous and highly water-repellent. Therefore, under washing conditions, it will perform better than hardwood, and will last for many years, while maintaining a pleasant appearance.

Particular attention should be paid to the selection of material for finishing floors in the washing room. The main qualities of the finished floor in this room - comfortable temperature and anti-slip properties. To achieve this result, the base for the floor is made of concrete, and ceramic tiles are laid out on it. In order to prevent strong slipping, wooden pallets or removable logs are placed on the ceramic floor. After each visit to the bath, they are taken out into the air to dry. However, the floor in the washroom can be completely wooden, but ceramic tile as the main finish is a more practical and durable option. She copes well with an abundance of water, various cosmetics, shampoo, etc.

A high level of humidity is maintained in all areas of the bath. This is the most important aspect that must be considered when choosing finishing materials. For the vestibule and other rooms, you can use any type of wood. But don't limit yourself to wood. Other materials are also suitable for high-quality and stylish finishing of the vestibule, rest room and other bath rooms:

• Porcelain stoneware;
• Plaster;
• Natural stone;
• fiberglass wallpaper;
• Majolica.

Various combinations of these materials open up wide possibilities for aesthetic and practical decoration of the baths. For example, the combination looks very solid and beautiful natural stone and wood. Do-it-yourself bath will allow you to translate non-standard creative ideas into reality. The interior decoration, the photo of which is presented on this page, will help you choose the best materials and their combinations.

The ceiling of the bath must withstand high temperature loads, as well as cope with the flow of hot wet steam. Do not forget about the need to protect the floors from heat and steam with the help of heat and vapor barrier materials. For this purpose, you can purchase building membranes or aluminum foil. If you put them hermetically, then their effectiveness will be equally high. It is not recommended to perform a vapor barrier using foil with a layer of cotton wool, because this material has a thinner thickness, so it is much more difficult to work with it during the sheathing process. The same applies to foil with a layer of polypropylene foam. This material, when exposed to high temperatures, releases substances toxic to humans, therefore it is unsuitable for use in bath rooms.

Each joint of the vapor barrier and thermal insulation is glued with aluminum tape to ensure complete tightness. Sometimes, when performing work, the material is pierced, torn, etc. If this happens, then the hole formed in the material must be immediately sealed with aluminum tape, because later you may simply not remember about it or not find the damaged place. As a result, the vapor barrier will be leaky and of poor quality.

The steam room requires a pipe hole. It is equipped with a box with a stainless steel frame filled with expanded clay.

Cutting the ceiling for a pipe hole must be carried out taking into account maintaining a sufficient distance from hardwood floor to the outer contour of the pipe, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the chimney used.

To make a pipe hole you will need:

• 2mm stainless steel sheet
• galvanized box;
• Clamp clamp.

Cutting the ceiling is carried out mainly in order to ensure the fire safety of the ceiling slabs. In addition, in this way, the elements of the chimney receive additional support and are securely fixed in place. Cutting allows you to design the outlet of the pipe.

The box 400x400 mm is installed from the side of the attic. A sheet of stainless steel 500x500 mm is attached to it from below, from the side of the steam room. Near the steel lining, the pipe is fitted with a clamp, preventing the pipe from coming into contact with the furnace. This significantly extends the life of the furnace, since the entire load from the pipe falls on the upper steel circuit.

After the box and the steel sheet have found their places, the inside of the box is insulated and covered with expanded clay. This will prevent heat loss through the duct contour.

Steel sheet on the ceiling provides additional protection against high temperatures.

We bring to your attention an instruction that will help you complete the lining of the ceiling in the bath with clapboard quickly, economically and efficiently:

• The ceiling is sheathed with slats 2x4 cm. They are fastened with a distance of 40-45 cm. In those places where the frame is attached, ventilation gaps of 10 mm must be left.
• Horizontal slats are placed on the walls perpendicular to the lining;
• Fastening panels begins with one of the walls. The first bar is exposed with the groove out. The spike of another panel is hammered into it. The order of connection of the spike and groove can be changed, it is not fundamental.

When sheathing, use rubber pads and a mallet to handle the material gently and gently without damaging it.

• Fasten the planks using special clamps. Kleimers are attached to the rail with a screw or nails. You can also use a construction stapler, it will be even more convenient. With the help of a stapler, the fastening is reliable, and the time to complete the work is significantly reduced.
• There should be gaps between the sheathing and the wall, up to 2.5 cm in size. They are necessary for additional ventilation and to prevent deformation of the finish. To mask the gaps, it is enough to nail the ceiling plinth. The first panel and the last are attached with inconspicuous nails. It is necessary to hammer in such nails at an angle, and drive the hat tightly into the wood.

Do not forget that the sheathing should be carried out along strictly vertical lines. A level check is required after each panel installed. If there is no level at hand, then you can simply measure the distance between the wall and the edge of the sheathing. It should be equal along the entire length of the bar.

If the values ​​obtained as a result of the measurements diverge, then the lining must be knocked out so that the measurements converge. Otherwise, the skin will turn out uneven and sloppy. Stuffing is done with a piece of panel, which is driven into the groove with a mallet or hammer to fit the size.

You can achieve perfect evenness in another way. The wooden lining is fixed and sharp wood chips are hammered under it.

The only material suitable for wall cladding in a steam room is wood. It is also suitable for other bath rooms, but other materials can also be used in them - stone, tile, etc. In the vestibule and the relaxation room, you can create original ensembles by combining various materials.

Clapboard wall cladding

According to the main parameters, wall cladding with clapboard is performed in the same way as ceiling decoration.

• The first stage is to fill a thick beam around the perimeter in a horizontal direction. Step - 80-100 cm.
• In the recesses between the bars you need to put a heater. For example, mineral wool. It is cut with a sharp knife into appropriate pieces. It is not necessary to tamp the heater.

Note! All work with mineral wool should be carried out with gloves, a respirator and goggles.

• Then a vapor barrier is laid, each joint is glued with aluminum tape.

Pay special attention to insulation in corner joints.

• Don't forget to leave gaps for ventilation. To do this, you can fill the remote rail. The crate is created at right angles to the lining. Therefore, if you want to sheathe the walls, placing the lining vertically, then the crate must be nailed horizontally.

First of all, rails for the frame are installed in the corners of the walls in a vertical position. Care must be taken to ensure that their position remains strictly vertical. In order to facilitate the alignment of the horizontal slats, string can be pulled between the vertical slats at the ceiling and floor.

• With separate bars, you need to separate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door and the window;
• Now you can go directly to the paneling.

It is recommended to fasten the lining for baths from one corner in the vertical direction. Due to this, it will be easier for water to drain from the walls, without lingering in the grooves of the panels. If you like a horizontal pattern, then the panel spike should be directed upwards so that moisture does not collect or linger in the grooves. In this case, you need to start work by fixing the boards to the ceiling. The crate in this situation is performed in the vertical direction.

The lining is directly fastened with kleimers, nails, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler. If you are using self-tapping screws or nails, then insert them at an angle, driving the caps deep into the wood. Ventilation gaps of about 2 cm should remain between the ceiling and the sheathing, the floor and the sheathing.

A common problem that people face when doing self-cladding of the walls of the bath with clapboard is the need to cut the material. It's easy to do. You can cut the lining with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw.

The last panel on the wall is cut to the desired size and fixed to the crate. The next wall starts with a panel where the comb is cut off. It should fit snugly against the last rail of the previous wall. In the corners, the elements must be adjusted especially precisely. Determine the exact angle values ​​before sawing the batten or panel. Draw a line with a pencil on the material to avoid mistakes. There should be no seams at the corners of the panels.

The most important moment when performing finishing work inside the bath is the insulation of the furnace. The following materials are suitable for solving this issue:

• Stainless steel sheets of appropriate size;
• Minerite is a special material with high heat-resistant characteristics. It is a mixture of cement, reinforcing fiber and mineral fillers. With a close location of the stove near the wall, the mineralite must be put in two layers. If at least 40 cm remains between the oven and the wall, then one layer will be enough.
• Ceramic heat-resistant tiles;
• Solid red brick. They need to lay out the walls from the floor to the base of the pipe or higher;
• Profile iron is the cheapest option.

Ceramic tiles are the best option for finishing all bath rooms, except for the steam room. Considering the modern variety of models and collections, it will not be difficult to make the design of a rest room or washing room not only practical, comfortable and durable, but also aesthetic. The most important argument in favor of tiling is its excellent moisture resistance.

Laying tiles is carried out step by step. The first step is preparation. The second is the direct execution of work.

Preparatory stage

The preparation of concrete or cinder block walls consists in removing dust, dirt, plastering and leveling. The preparation of wooden walls is to perform waterproofing. construction stapler ruberoid is nailed onto wooden panels, roofing felt. A chain-link mesh is sewn on top of the waterproofing, on which a concrete solution is densely placed.

Then, in both cases, it is necessary to nail an even beam. It will become the basis of a fine finish. Instead of a bar, suitable and metallic profile. Do not forget to check the horizontal and vertical rows during the laying process. For horizontal, use the building level. For vertical, you can use a plumb line.

Instructions for laying tiles in the bath

You can prepare a tile fixing solution yourself. To do this, you need to mix cement and sand in a ratio of 1:5. But you can also buy a ready mix. It is recommended to give preference to a special adhesive designed for laying tiles in rooms with high humidity and temperature fluctuations. Tiles must be immersed in water before laying to remove air. Thanks to this, the tile will adhere much better to the solution.

Start of work - from the attached level. The first row must be laid out especially diligently, because it is he who determines the evenness of all subsequent rows and the accuracy of the entire lining.

Glue is placed on the reverse side of the tile. Use a notched trowel for this. Glue can also be applied to the wall. Then the tile is carefully applied to the wall and pressed down so that the adhesive protrudes slightly beyond its edges. You can adjust the position of the tile with a rubber mallet.

It is important to maintain an equal distance between the tiles. Therefore, after you lay adjacent rows, fix special plastic crosses in the corners of the tiles. This will keep the same gap both in length and in height.

It will take a couple of days for the tiles to dry. After that, you can remove the level and wipe the seams. The color of the grout should be in harmony with the color of the tile.

The final stage is the removal of grout residues, cleaning the tile and giving it the final aesthetic appearance.

With the help of ceramic tiles, you can realize the most daring creative fantasies. You can lay it evenly, diagonally, offset, patterned. The easiest and fastest way is to lay the tiles in even rows.

If you decide to tile a complex pattern or pattern, it is best to transfer it to the floor or wall so that you can immediately see where which tile should be located. This will allow you to accurately complete the cladding and give your bath a truly original and unique look.

An unusual and very stylish solution for a bath is terracotta tiles. They are ideal for this type of room, as they are resistant to both temperature and moisture. At the same time, they allow you to create an original and interesting design, eco-friendly, practical and stylish. The laying of this material has its own characteristics, primarily due to its significant weight. This tile requires a special adhesive. Mastic will work too.

The installation process consists of the following steps:

• Mastic is densely distributed on the stove. This material will require much more adhesive than conventional ceramic tiles;
• We apply the plate to the wall, press down and align;
• We continue to work in the same order with the rest of the plates;
• To align the joints between the tiles, pieces of drywall can be inserted into the seams;
• Do not forget to regularly check the parallelism and evenness of the rows with a level;
• 10 hours after the installation is completed, you can start processing the seams. It is performed with a heat-resistant grout for wide joints. The composition is diluted with water to the density of sour cream.
• Then pieces of drywall are removed from the seams;
• The grout is applied with a construction gun. The spout must be cut at an angle of 60º so that the width of the hole is 8-10 mm;
• The seams are carefully filled with grout. It should not fall on the plates themselves or other surfaces.

Handling a pistol requires experience. So be very careful with it. If the grout still gets on the tile, then do not try to remove it immediately. You will only spread the composition over a larger area. It is better to wait a little while the grout dries. So, you can gently scrape it off.

• The direction of applying the grout can be any;
• Two hours later, you can move on to the stitching, which will provide a finished look to this finish.
• Jointing is done with a 7-8 mm screwdriver or a wire ring;
• After that, you need to walk along the seams with a finger in a clean glove.

The wooden floor in the bath does not need additional finishing. A concrete floor involves laying ceramic tiles with a non-slip coating.

Laying starts from one of the corners. In this case, the ideal evenness of the rows is not required, because the floor in the bath is made with a slope towards the drain. But the approximate location of the tiles is still worth noting on the floor by level before you start laying them.

The work is carried out in the following order:

• The solution is distributed on the floor with a spatula in accordance with the size of the tile;
• The teeth of the spatula on the solution are imprinted with a pattern that provides it reliable connection with tiles;
• Tiles are laid out. In the process of work, its position is adjusted with a rubber hammer. Don't forget about slope formation! Tiles for the first row must be dry. And it is desirable to pre-soak all other elements in water.
• Corner elements are cut to required dimensions using a tile cutter;

Finishing- the final stage of construction. It is wrong to include work on insulation in it. That's when it comes to facing floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, then this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define terms if we want mutual understanding.

This article will focus mainly on interior decoration. steam rooms, but the finish will also be partially affected washing. If the site has thematic articles that reveal a particular issue on the subject, read it, there will surely be useful information, and for your convenience we have made links.

Steam room design

If it's about finishing options for finishing the steam room in the bath, then it would be worthwhile to classify them somehow and talk about them from different points of view. That is, you can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or you can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.

Floor

In the steam room, the floor comes in three versions:

• tree;
• tile;
• concrete.

The latter option is generally not intended to be walked on with bare feet, but in rubber slippers or on ladders, people walk on such a floor. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. The wooden floor can be torrential or dry, you can read about the features of both options.

We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.

poured wood floor- these are boards fixed on logs without docking. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.

dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue-and-groove.

Either floor can be painted after installation is completed. acrylic varnish, or sauna floor impregnation. This will make the floorboards water repellent and the floor itself more durable.

Tile is also rightfully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as it should be with the pouring option, and the dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still a tree, but it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).

IMPORTANT! The main argument against a tiled floor is that you can slip on it. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.

Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look like the decoration of the steam room in the bath was left halfway. To give some kind of completeness, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.

How to finish the walls and ceiling

We've united for a reason walls and ceiling into one category - they are usually made from the same material.

If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, it is a tradition, secondly, it is useful, and thirdly, it is pleasant and beautiful.

But in general, the design of the steam room in the bath, if we talk about the walls and ceiling, comes down to the choice lining. True, some leave walls made of timber or a log house uncovered, but this is if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.

But there are a lot of types of lining so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.

ATTENTION! To begin with, let's clarify that imitation of a bar and a blockhouse (imitation of a log house) are also varieties of lining. After all, this word means, in essence, just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.

euro and non-euro

First of all, it varies tenon-groove connection design. Such types of lining are built on the differences between them, such as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, "American".

Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.

It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on the back of the lamella. They were not in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and eurolining has them.

ADVICE! For those who want to get creative with the interior decoration of the steam room in the bath, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with a chamfer or without a chamfer and one of the carved profiles.

You can read more about the types of lining and plating methods in this one.

Of course, there is also the decoration around the stove in the steam room of the bath, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.

Doors and windows

For doors and windows, the most important thing is not so much design as right choice wood.

After all, you can’t put a plastic door in a steam room, except perhaps glass, which are made for the sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door, necessary for the ventilation of the sauna). But if you cut the box, you can put glass door and in the Russian bath. And you won't have problems closing the doors.

But if the door is still made of wood, then high humidity will affect it primarily change in the volume of wood, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.

Here, in order to avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and someone will prefer a fake lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.

We separate inside the steam room

Since buildings come from different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to finish the steam room in the bath, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of the device of the insulation cake, and even the finishing does not depend on what the walls of your bath are built from.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bath from a bar or a log house

bar or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless it is arctic cold in your area, that is, if the thickness of the log or timber is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the main concern of the owner will be joint insulation between logs or beams, their sealing(which will be discussed separately). In addition, finishing works include protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identifying the decorative properties of wood - both are done using impregnation.

BUT! In the steam room, protective measures are limited to an antiseptic on the lower crowns and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful "moire" pattern that can be made more visible with varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes acceptable for processing steam.

Finishing with clapboard in a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

Finishing the sauna steam room, built from the materials listed in the title, in the vast majority of cases will be reduced to sheathing clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior "wooden". In addition, the lining is convenient and available material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to their tastes.

Baths not built of wood are accepted insulate. In this article, we will not describe the heat-insulating cake - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, spoilers: methods of heat-insulating finishing of a steam room in a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to secure it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through the groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of attaching to staples or nails using an air gun through clamps. As an option - you can mount on self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Kleimers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. Nice and handy addition.

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining with the help of clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with a clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical and horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice must run in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella in this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stresses inside the wood. In the future, it may crack.

In the same time horizontal fastening makes the dampening of the lamellas more uniform. The main thing is not to forget when attaching that the groove should be on top, and the spike should enter it from below. Then the water will not flow into the castle.

In addition to what has been said, the described types of lining installation have another feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear taller and the horizontal lower.

Options for washing and steam rooms: materials

Let's briefly go over the materials suitable for finishing in the washing bath and steam room.

Wood

In the photo: finishing the steam room of the bath with a tree (lining)

For the floor, you can use more resistant rocks, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor, the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.

However, it should be said that lindens and aspens low rates of resistance to decay and bioinfection (for example, by fungi). Therefore, we recommend that you still additionally protect the surfaces of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.

V car wash there is no point in using a tree, unless it is design solution. In this case, it is worth recommending just coniferous- They are more resistant to water.

A rock

An option for how to finish a steam room in a bath is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).

What types of stone are best suited for wall decoration in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no limits th - the main thing is that it should not be rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as an interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as a soup pot, but it has the same composition as salt in a salt shaker.

The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of enduring such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to overlay the stove with the same stone. The temperatures are different there. And you should focus on at least those stones, in the lining of which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, talcomagnesite .

Alternatively, you can trim part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped ones. pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out pretty nice decor. As you can see, even street boulders can come in handy.

In the photo: the interior decoration of the steam room of the bath with stones around the stove

V car wash stone can be used, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with finished ceramic tiles.

Tile

The tile in the steam room is used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, metlakh. It can generally be recommended for wet rooms. But all varieties of smooth glazed tiles should not be considered as a floor covering for a steam room.

V washing it is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for walls ... here, in general, you know better how sober visitors will wash in your washing room. If not really, then give up smooth tiles there, eliminating unnecessary opportunities to get injured.

In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bath inside with tiles

sealant

Special mention is made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in the bath.

Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it is log bath and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as to seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if used as heat insulator.

In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, because the tree tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which of the wood sealants withstand the temperature of the steam room well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).

We came across a report from one sauna owner who praised wood sealant. Perma Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate to seal cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.

As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.

Finishing around the stove

The space around the stove needs a special finish, for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.

Refractory board for wall decoration when installing a sauna stove

Therefore, a heat-insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, minerite or superisol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). To reflect heat, you can attach a sheet of stainless steel.

Tiles at the stove

If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles. Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, of which the seller will choose the right one for you.

Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it is worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.

And one more thing - you need to take into account what is in the baths on personal plot in winter, with a long non-use, the temperature can be minus.

Some types of tiles are not designed for a sharp change in temperature when melting a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.

Photo

Finishing the steam room of the bath

Interior decoration of the steam room and washing room together

Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside

Finishing baths and steam rooms semi-antique

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We have many other interesting and informative materials on a variety of issues related to the bath. We recommend using it to search for the material of interest.

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The steam room is the most important room of the bath, because there is no bath without a steam room. Traditionally, for convenience, additional spaces are designed around this small room, which can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower room, a relaxation room, a pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to finish the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will be not just an external decoration of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of tasks:

• walls are being prepared;
• thermal insulation is applied;
• thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
• external finishing is carried out;
• design developments are brought to life, which give the interior completeness and aesthetics.

Finishing the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. So the first two important steps are:

• the choice of a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless with temperature changes;
• selection of the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

Baths are built from century to century, the ancestors used natural materials for their insulation: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and as environmentally friendly as possible, they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. For warming the steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which rock waste is used as a feedstock. Such material is produced both in rolls and in plates. It is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms, environmental, durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply indispensable for thermal insulation of those places of the wall and ceiling, which are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rot, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to the location of the steam room.

Basalt wool - technical characteristics of the insulation

As for the most effective at one hundred percent humidity and maximum temperatures become foil films.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

The choice of material for finishing

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, they take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but operational qualities are considered the main ones:

• hygiene,
• resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
• safety and complete absence of toxins,
• durability and reliability.

Attention! In the production of a steam room, it is forbidden to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various kinds wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances emitted by artificial materials can seriously harm health.

The lining is considered the most suitable for finishing the steam room, wooden planks, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to build Russian baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwoods, as they do not emit resin when heated.

1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength, such a tree does not rot or crack.
2. Clapboard made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its the most unique properties will bring relaxation.
3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, this breed is very durable.
4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Deciduous species dry out quickly and therefore the fungus does not threaten them. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots that can be harmful to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, be sure to check the pine boards for the presence of so-called "tar pockets".

The decoration of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Prices for lining

Preparation for finishing work

TO installation work start after the supply of electricians, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need such materials and tools:

• building level,
• bonding device,
• perforator,
• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• lining under the crate,
• clamps and screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, they start work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To avoid heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled with wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently appear at different heights.

Installation of the crate and insulation

No. p / p	Illustration	A comment
1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which was previously leveled.
2		And then a crate of timber is attached. Well-dried beams of 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm are used without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The distance during installation should not be more than 1 m. It is great if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted on the wall according to the level. After that, according to the principle of racks, the extreme bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that is formed between the floor plane and the rack provides for the "movement" of the tree during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (with finishing steam room, the gap is closed with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach smaller bars to them. This method of fastening is called floating, it will help to avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire crate is adjusted to the level and fixed, if necessary, linings are used.
		For semicircular or curved surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole bar, but parts of it.
5		A heater is placed in the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or deform, so it is fixed with polypropylene twine.
6		Then, with a rough side, a second layer of vapor barrier is placed to the insulation, it is fixed with a stapler.
7		So that the tree is not subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing a wood preservative

The acquired wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, pathogens and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When buying, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Of the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, they can be fire-retardant and protect the affected areas of the tree. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for the steam room and protects the wood from decay.

Neomid 200 - impregnation

100% natural linseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the most successful ecological choice.

Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Due to the high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensate, prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stain, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

SATU SAUNAVAHA - wax

Prices for antiseptics for wood

wood preservative V33

Treating wood with an antiseptic

For work you will need:

• short-haired brush or brush,
• White Spirit,
• warm water,
• soap.

The surface to be treated must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will lie more tenaciously.

It is necessary to impregnate the timber and lining from all sides, after which the tree should dry out (48 hours). It is recommended to heat linseed oil TM "GreenTherm" before use in a steam bath to 40 ° -45 ° C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or a rag.

Attention! The brush should only be shorthaired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a brush with long hair is not suitable for work.

Excess oil, which the wood has not absorbed, is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between the application of 2-3 layers, technological breaks are observed for at least 12 hours. Especially carefully process the ends of the boards and timber. Drying takes 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%. Excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as you like, in accordance with the artistic design intent. But when finishing a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room - the highest temperature, and at the bottom - the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is uneven, the boards will very quickly "lead" high humidity. The logical choice is the horizontal placement of the boards.

If the lining is fixed horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along the entire length, bending deformation does not appear. Of course, different trim elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect the general form skins.

Lining fastening

Before starting work, you need to measure the steam room and cut the lining of the desired height.

The choice of type of fastening depends on the air temperature in the room.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps, not nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so you can get burned from them. Kleimers are completely invisible, while the lining fixed by them can be dismantled and mounted several times.

The lining of the steam room is made from the stove and bypasses the room around the perimeter. The correct mounting direction is from top to bottom.

The board is fastened with a groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The boards of the lining are assembled "groove into thorn", like a designer.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will drain freely, without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from decay. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws, in which case they can be easily dismantled and replaced without disassembling the entire sheathing structure. On the doorway, the trim is nailed using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the tree will begin to rot with reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay out a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choice of tiles or stone

For a good bath, with a smell natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, natural stone tiles are suitable: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for flooring and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic decoration is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made of clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors and fumes at all. For finishing the steam room, products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient are chosen. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors, it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Finishing inside the bath + ceiling insulation

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters, you need to prepare:

• level and tape measure
• 6 square meters ceramic or stone tiles,
• three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
• one pack of Terracotta grout,
• drill for stirring with a nozzle,
• construction gun,
• hammer,
• putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant glue from the Terracotta company is used in those areas where the temperature will not exceed 400 ° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic, it is used in places where heating is up to 1100 ° C.

First, prepare the base. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is laid, then a mesh, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

In the photo - waterproofing and mesh for applying the solution

A cement screed is made on the floor, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and a drain should be organized. Twine or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the floor or wall, and it will be possible to check the correct installation.

Before starting laying, ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

In the production of a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed well, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from the bottom up, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely chopped drywall instead of crosses. When arranging a drain hole on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

The floor tiles are mounted on glue with sand, glue without sand can shrink. All other rows are placed on the level already created with a slope.

On the reverse side of each tile, the mortar is applied in such a way that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor. Then it is seated with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant grout "Terracotta" is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is poured with water and mixed with a mixer. After that, the solution can be filled into the tube of the gun, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! Grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only after that it is easy to remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work was completed, it is already possible to carry out the first firebox.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room