Self-construction of a bath stove is not the easiest, but quite feasible undertaking that requires thorough preparation and a thoughtful approach. By reading the information below, you will learn about important nuances sauna stove design, and also consider milestones erection of a brick structure.

The sauna stove can have different dimensions, selected mainly in accordance with the area of ​​​​the serviced premises. Most often, furnaces are built with a base measuring 890x1020 mm (3.5x4 bricks) or 1020x1290 mm (4x5 bricks) and a height without taking into account the chimney 168 cm or 210 cm, respectively. The second option is better suited for steam rooms with increased ceiling height.

The most preferred option for a brick oven for a bath is a model with a water circuit (tank for heating water). It does not make sense to bring many projects - they are almost identical, only the location of the tank for heating water changes. The most popular options are the bottom-tank brick oven and the top-mounted brick sauna stove.

The following images show diagrams of a brick oven with a lower water tank.

Schemes of a brick oven with a lower water tank

Schemes of a brick oven with a lower placement of a water tank (ordering)

The following images clearly demonstrate the design of a brick stove for a bath with a tank at the top.

Making the project safe: the basics

Before proceeding with the study of further information on the arrangement of the sauna stove, you need to consider and remember the key safety provisions, the violation of which can lead to extremely adverse consequences.

Traditionally, the stove is built near the wall opposite to the shelves in the steam room. The design of the furnace must be created so that between the heating parts of the finished unit and everything that supports combustion, a minimum distance of 30-40 cm is observed. If special protection is provided, for example, from asbestos cardboard, this figure can be reduced to 15-20 cm.

The use of a heat insulator in the construction of a furnace - an example

There must be a gap between the chimney and the floor/roof elements that are in contact with it, which is subsequently filled with refractory material. Most often, asbestos is used for protection. From above, said gap with insulation is closed with a steel curly plate.

For additional protection, the floor area in front of the furnace firebox is covered with a metal sheet about 10 mm thick. It will protect the floor material from fire in case coals fall out of the firebox.

The standard option for placing the stove in the bath space is shown in the following image. Here you can also see the order of organization of the water circuit, which can be taken as a basis if the supply warm water will be provided by the forces of the furnace unit, as well as the features of connecting and removing the chimney.

What is the oven made of?

Set for self erection brick sauna stove includes the following items:

• brick;
• clay for the preparation of masonry mortar (you will also need sand);
• a container for preparing a solution;
• tools for marking (pencil, rope, square, tape measure, etc.) and masonry (trowel, pick, mallet, etc.);
• insulation materials (roofing material, asbestos);
• elements for the manufacture of a water tank and a chimney pipe (if planned self assembly, but much more advantageous in terms of time and labor costs is the purchase of ready-made units).

The issue of choosing a brick for masonry deserves special attention. The strength of this material, first of all, should be higher than ordinary white or red bricks. The ideal option is fireclay bricks with the highest refractory properties.

By key performance characteristics a brick based on fireclay clay is noticeably superior to the nearest "brothers", but it costs much more. In view of this, in order to keep the total costs for the construction of a bath stove within reasonable limits, fireclay bricks are used for laying areas that are subject to the most intense heat.

In places warming up to more modest indicators, it is advisable to use a solid red brick, designed to perform the work in question.

For example, external walls, chimneys, various decorative elements, etc. can be laid out from such bricks.

Important! You can distinguish solid ceramic bricks by marking in the form of the letter "M" and the accompanying numbers indicating the value of the maximum load per 1 cm2. For laying a brick oven, you should use a material grade of at least M-150.

You can distinguish a real high-quality stove brick by 3 key features.

Video - Choosing a brick for laying the oven

What mortar to use for masonry?

masonry brick sauna stoves traditionally performed on clay mortar. It is best if a kind of clay is used for its preparation, which is the basis of the brick used, i.e. red or chamotte. In this case, brick and masonry will give the same thermal expansion during the heating process, which will ensure the longest possible life of the finished building.

Useful advice! It has been established that the thinner the masonry joint is made, the higher the quality of the furnace will be as a result. However, consideration of this issue also needs to be approached wisely: ideal masonry is obtained with a joint thickness of 0.5 cm. Reducing the value below the mentioned indicator will contribute to a noticeable decrease in the service life of the furnace.

In addition to clay, sand is included in the composition of the solution. It must first be sieved so that material with grains of sand no larger than 1-1.5 mm eventually goes into the solution. The millimeter value is the most preferred. It is also important that the sand does not have silt inclusions and is of a uniform color. For sifting, use sieves of the appropriate fractions.

Separate requirements are also imposed on water, which is also used in the process of preparing masonry mortar. First of all, it must be clean, contain the minimum possible amount of mineral inclusions, and not have a musty smell. It takes about 15-20 liters of water to lay 100 bricks.

Before preparing the solution, the clay must be put in any suitable container (for example, a large basin), crushed and poured clean water in such an amount that the result is the most homogeneous mass, not too thick and not very liquid. Thoroughly mix the solution, kneading the resulting lumps. Leave the mixture of clay and water for a day, then strain, and rub the resulting lumps through a sieve.

Sand is added to the prepared solution last. On average, a liter can of sand is added to a bucket of water, but this moment must be carefully controlled, because. the amount of river sand in the solution directly affects the fat content of the latter. In addition, the required amount of sand may vary depending on the initial fat content of the clay. If the masonry mixture is too greasy, the stove may simply collapse during operation. A lean (non-greasy) mortar will not allow achieving the desired quality of adhesion of bricks, as a result of which the scenario already considered will be repeated.

There are several simple ways to determine the fat content of clay in artisanal conditions.

Take 500 g of clay and mix it with water. Mixing is best done by hand, until a mixture is obtained that has a uniform consistency and does not stick to the hands.

Important! For laying a sauna stove, you can only use a solution of medium fat content.

Roll the mixture prepared earlier into a ball the size of a small apple. Lay the molded product on any flat, hard surface and gently press down on it with a plank. Press down slowly enough to fix the formation of cracks.

If the clay ball has disintegrated without cracking, the clay is non-greasy. The appearance of a half-diameter crack indicates that the clay is too oily. In the case of a solution of normal fat content, the crack will take approximately 0.2 of the diameter of the clay ball.

Preparation of furnace mortar - tips

Video - Preparation of a mortar for laying a furnace

The sequence of the construction of the sauna stove

Regardless of the chosen configuration of the brick sauna stove, the procedure for its construction remains identical for all situations: from the foundation to the arrangement of the chimney and finishing. In the following table, you can find important information about each stage of the event in question.

Table. The procedure for the construction of a sauna stove

Stage of work	Description
	There are several types of foundations for a sauna stove. You are offered the most optimal and popular option. Do the following: - mark the site for the future foundation by driving in pegs in the corners and around the perimeter of the base to be equipped, and pulling a rope between them to make it easier to navigate. Select the site dimensions in accordance with the design dimensions of the furnace base; - dig a pit with a depth of about 60 cm. At the same time, expand the lower 10-15 cm in relation to the main part of the pit by 5-10 cm in each direction. After concreting, such a platform from below will provide a higher resistance of the entire structure to ground movements; - fill the lower expanded part of the pit with sand and compact it, spilling it with water for better compaction; - pour a 10-centimeter layer of gravel or broken brick over the sand and tamp it down as well; - mount the formwork along the contours of the pit. To assemble it use wooden planks and screws; - lay the reinforcing mesh in the pit. For its assembly, it is optimal to use steel rods with a diameter of 1-1.2 cm. The rods are tied into a mesh with cells of 15x15 cm. At the intersections, the reinforcement is fastened with knitting wire or special modern clamps, which is more convenient. Between the walls of the pit and the reinforcing mesh, an approximately 5-centimeter gap is maintained. A similar gap must be maintained between the bottom of the pit and the reinforcing mesh. The most convenient way to do this is with the help of special clamps-stands; - pour concrete mortar into the pit, prepared from 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of clean sand, 4-5 shares of gravel and water in an amount corresponding to about half the mass of cement. The concrete is poured in an even layer to such a height that the pouring does not reach the ground surface by about 150 mm. Be sure to align the “top” of the fill with a level; - let the filling stand for 3-5 days (preferably 7-10) to gain strength and dismantle the formwork. Fill the resulting voids with compacted fine gravel; - cover the hardened concrete platform with molten bitumen and lay a layer of roofing material on top, carefully leveling it and pressing it to the binder. Then repeat the procedure again. The resulting two-layer waterproofing will provide reliable protection brick oven from ground moisture. The previously mentioned 15 cm gap between the upper edge of the foundation and the ground surface will be leveled by means of a starting solid row of bricks.
	Detailed recommendations for this stage were given earlier.
	The laying of the bath stove is carried out in accordance with the previously prepared order - the main component of the project of the unit in question. The step-by-step procedure for building a brick oven will be discussed further in the corresponding section. The arrangement of additional elements (in this case, it is a chimney, since it will be proposed to make the water tank built-in) depends on the specifics of a particular project and is considered individually in each case.
	A fully laid out oven cannot be immediately put into permanent operation: the device must be given time to dry. During the drying period, the doors and windows in the room should be open - the stove will dry faster. After 4-5 days after the completion of the laying of the furnace, it can be started to heat with small chips for a maximum of 10-15 minutes daily. The furnace is performed 1 time per day. Escaping condensation indicates that the unit is not yet completely dry.
	At the request of the owner, can be performed finishing. There are enough options. The most popular are the following: - tiling (clinker, majolica, terracotta or marble). One of the more popular options. Differs in rather low cost and simplicity of implementation; - brick cladding; - stone finishing. Well suited porcelain stoneware, granite, marble or serpentine; - plastering. The primordially Russian method, which is concurrently the most elementary and budgetary; - tiling. A labor-intensive finishing method that allows you to get truly unique design compositions.

Video - Construction of a sauna stove

Sauna stove project: step by step ordering

As an example, the procedure for erecting a furnace equipped with a built-in water tank will be considered. The dimensions of the structure at the base are quite impressive - 1020x1290 mm (corresponding to laying 4x5 bricks), height - 2100 mm. At will, the owner can change the dimensions in accordance with the conditions and characteristics of the equipped steam room. The design image of the erected structure is presented below.

An oven with the indicated design dimensions will allow providing temperature indicators at the level of about 45-50 degrees in the process of washing and up to 100 degrees and above during soaring in a space of up to 10-14 m2. One firebox of such a furnace will be enough for up to 10-12 visitors to comfortably take a steam bath and wash thoroughly. The volume of the built-in tank (in the diagram shown on the edge on the right) is about 180 liters.

To improve the quality of heating and placement of stones above the fuel chamber of the furnace, pipes are laid in the amount of 6 pieces (visible next to the water tank) with a diameter of 50 mm. The length of pipes to be laid specifically for this project is 1050 mm. The installed pipes become very hot during the operation of the furnace and continue to transfer thermal energy for some time even after the completion of the furnace.

Above the stones is a double door. Through the opening it closes, water succumbs to the laid cobblestones, due to which steam is formed.

We proceed directly to the study of the design order.

Table. Ordering a brick sauna stove

Stage of work	Description
	As noted, it becomes continuous and does not have any significant features. The scheme of directly laying bricks is shown in the image.
	At this stage, the formation of the ash chamber begins (dimensions and location are shown in the image) and the corresponding door is installed (highlighted in red in the diagram). Important! The dimensions of the hole intended for installing the door must exceed the dimensions of the mounted frame on each side by 5 mm. Fixing this, as well as other doors in the oven, is done as follows: - the asbestos cord is inserted into the prepared hole and smeared with masonry mortar. A cord with a diameter of 0.5 cm will suffice; - on 4 sides, the door frame is equipped with lobes - wire, previously twisted from 3-4 rods 10-12 cm long. 10-centimeter wire cuts with a diameter of about 0.5 cm are attached to the ends; - the prepared structure is inserted into the hole along the masonry and fixed with mortar. The wire embedded in the masonry provides reliable and high-quality fixation of the door.
	The laying of the ash chamber continues.
	From refractory bricks (yellow in the diagram), the base of the firebox is laid out and 2 grates are installed. The installation of gratings is carried out in grooves specially cut for this.
	The formation of the fuel chamber itself begins. The chamber is completely lined with refractory bricks.
	The fuel chamber door is installed.
	The laying of the fuel chamber continues.
	Actions are similar to the 7th row.
	The combustion chamber door is closed.
	Quarters of refractory bricks are laid at each of the side walls. Openings are formed between the bricks, the dimensions of which should allow the pipes mentioned earlier to be laid. At the same stage, in the places indicated on the diagram, a place is being prepared for installing a water tank.
	On the same row, the previously mentioned pipes are laid in the gaps between the quarters of refractory bricks. Holes around pipes are easiest to seal with basalt cardboard.
	Also on the 10th row, a water tank is being installed.
	In this and the following images, the water tank is not shown to better show the features of the masonry, although the tank should be present. Previously laid pipes are covered with ordinary (not fireclay) bricks.
	The furnace array rises higher.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one. This image shows the water tank. The allocated space above the pipes is filled with cobblestone.
	2 strips of steel are placed above the water tank (placement and dimensional ratio can be estimated on the diagram) so that it can be covered with bricks.
	The water tank is closed. The designated space is left free. In the future, water will succumb to the cobblestones through this opening.
	The construction of the furnace array continues, similarly to the previous row.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Similar to the previous one.
	Laying is carried out similarly to the previous row. The diagram is shown with a door installed for an opening through which water will flow. In general, the installation of this door had to be done earlier - when laying the row marked with red lines. The door was not shown in the diagram in order to better understand the principle of masonry. To cover the door, 2 steel strips are laid on top - the technique is already familiar to you from the previous stages of the work.
	The door is closed. Preparations for shutting down the furnace begin. The area to be covered is large enough. To successfully cope with this stage of work, it will be necessary to lay 2 steel strips. The thickness of the strips is quite large - about 1 cm. For their laying, recesses are cut out in the bricks (marked in the diagram). Under the strips, it is desirable to put gaskets made of basalt cardboard.
	The mentioned strips are laid with 1-2 mm gaps (marked in the diagram), due to which the thermal expansion of the metal during the operation of the furnace will be compensated.
	The oven is closed. At this stage, you need to leave a hole for installing a chimney pipe (marked in the image). On the hole is done seat for installing a smoke damper, which is also seen in the diagram.
	At the same stage, the smoke damper is installed.
	Furnace floor construction is in progress.
	Similar to the previous one.
	The formation of a chimney pipe begins.
	Pipe formation continues. Further, laying is carried out in a similar sequence until the pipe is brought to the design height (determined individually, in accordance with the characteristics of a particular room).

The laying is completed. The principle of operation of such a furnace is extremely simple: when burning fuel, hot gases heat the walls of the furnace and a water boiler installed inside the structure, pass through the laid pipes and stone filling placed on top of them, and then go into the chimney.

Video - Brick sauna stoves projects

This article is devoted to the consideration of the main features of a permanent brick bath stove "RusSauna" developed by Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov, distinguishing it from other bathing stoves of constant action of this author .

Therefore, here we only briefly list these features.

Majority brick ovens I.V. Kuznetsov have the following distinctive features:

• kilns by I.V. Kuznetsov- these are bell-type furnaces, working on the principle of free movement of gases(SDG);
• firebox in the furnaces of I.V. Kuznetsov is part of the lower hood of the furnace and is combined with it into a single whole through a continuous air gap, located in one of the walls of the firebox and called "dry seam";
• inner space lower hood of the furnace with a firebox, usually, lined with refractory fireclay bricks. The purpose of the lining is to protect the outer walls of the furnace, made of solid clay bricks, from exposure to high flame temperatures;
• the inner lining is separated from the outer lining of the furnace by temperature air gaps. The purpose of the temperature gaps is to prevent the destruction of the outer brickwork of the furnace by the lining, which expands when it is heated by the flame of burning wood;
• firebox many of the furnaces of I.V. Kuznetsov in their upper part contains a lattice made of fireclay bricks. This lattice (received, in the terminology of the author, the name "catalyst") is designed to increase the completeness of combustion of volatiles emitted by burning wood, and to achieve higher temperatures in the firebox.

All brick sauna stoves by I.V. Kuznetsov, both intermittent and continuous, are designed for placing a heater inside the stove.

Recall that bath stoves of periodic action suggest their initial heating, and only then the start of taking bath procedures. In bath furnaces of periodic action, the stone laying for vaporization can only be located inside the furnace, and it is heated directly by the flame of burning fuel.

Bath stoves of constant action suggest the possibility of heating the stove while taking bath procedures. In bath furnaces of constant action, the stone laying for vaporization can be either in a closed metal container or in an open metal container. In the first case, the container with stones is completely inside the furnace, in the second case, the container is only partially in the furnace, and the stones placed in the container are outside. In continuous furnaces, stones are heated indirectly through the metal wall of the container in which they are placed.

Model of a brick bath stove of constant actionreplaced the previously developed I.V. Kuznetsov to similar furnaces of constant action.

Main differencesthis oven model was:

• metal tank application for stones specific design;
• place and method of installation of the tank in a brick oven;
• the absence of a "catalyst" - a fireclay grate in the upper part of the firebox;
• advanced internal secondary air supply systeminside the ovenfrom the ash space to the top of the firebox and a specially shaped smoke chamberfor afterburning combustible gases emitted by burning wood;
• actual replacement of the 2nd furnace hood with a small smoke chamber(hog).

In order to make it easier to understand the changes made by I.V. Kuznetsov to the design of his existing permanent brick bath stoves, I propose first to consider in general terms the design of the drawings of 2 models of such stoves available in open press:BIK P1 3.5×4 met And BIK 41.

On the fig.1 And fig.2shows sections of two models of continuous furnaces by Igor KuznetsovBIK P1 3.5×4 met And BIK 41 with metal tanks for stone laying placed inside these furnaces.

Fig.1. Sauna furnace of periodic action by I.V. KuznetsovaBIK P1 3.5×4 met

Rice. 2. Bath stove of periodic action by I.V. KuznetsovBIK 41

From the drawings it can be seen that how the ovenBIK P1 3.5×4 met, and oven BIK 41 are 2-x bell-shaped. Metal ovens for stones are located inside the ovens and differ only in size. Oven for stones in the ovenBIK 41larger ovens for oven stonesBIK P1 3.5×4 metdue to the fact that in the ovenBIK 41the upper cap is made smaller in size, is located behind the stone tank and is shifted to the right wall of the furnace.

First ( lower) furnace capBIK P1 3.5×4 met(fig.1)ends 21stnext to red ceramic brick, and second ( upper) cap with overlap occupies from the 23rd to 30th rows and is located directly above the lower cap. Row 22 is the overlap of the lower cap.

In the oven BIK 41 (Fig. 2)the lower cap occupies space with2nd to 17th rows, 18th and 19th rows - overlapping part of the lower cap, 20-25 rows - the upper cap, 26-30 rows - overlapping the 2nd part of the lower cap and the entire upper cap(Fig. 2).Those who wish to verify what has been said can refer to the site of I.V. Kuznetsov ( BIK P1 3.5×4 met; BIK 41).

Under the metal tanks for stones in the 11th (BIK 41) And 12th (BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met) ranks is fireclay brick lattice ("catalyst" according to the terminology of the author of furnaces). The purpose of the "catalyst" is to mix the furnace gases with the air supplied to the firebox. Mixing furnace gases with air to increase the completeness of combustion products of thermal decomposition of wood emitted by burning wood. In addition, heated to high temperatures " catalyst "becomes a powerful source of beam (radiation) radiation towards burning firewood, which contributes to their heating and more intensive release of volatile combustible gases from firewood.

Air is supplied to the firebox for burning firewood from the blower compartment through a grate and a slot located in the 5th row of the firebox bottom in front of the stove door. This gap originates in the 4th row of the hearth of the firebox.

In the furnace BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met gap in front of the furnace door has a width of 2.5 cm, and in the BIK 41 oven - a width of 1 cm.

The metal tanks for stones themselves have the shape of a parallelepiped placed vertically with support on the smaller side. On one of the side surfaces of these tanks there is a rectangular loading opening for stones, which has the shape of a rectangular tunnel and connects the internal cavity of the stone tank with one end, and the opening of the stove door with the other side.

Stones are placed in the tank through this hole. Through the same hole, water is thrown onto the stones during the giving and steam exits into the steam room.

Furnaces BIK P1 3.5 × 4 met and BIK 41 belong to brick bath furnaces of continuous operation. Such stoves are called stoves, the design of which allows them to be used while taking bath procedures and at the same time not to stop (either if necessary or if desired) the process of burning firewood (to heat the stone laying that cools down when serving). In such furnaces, the possibility of getting into the steam room of furnace gases during soaring is excluded.

TO positive aspects In the case of permanent stoves, one can attribute the absence of soot and ash settling on the stones of the heater during the heating of the stove and, as a result, the inability to get into the steam room of these combustion products during the supply of water to the stove.

There is nothing terrible in this, since in periodic brick sauna stoves this factor is eliminated by one or two pours of boiling water on the heater before the start of soaring with an open pipe damper and while simultaneously covering the door of the heater immediately after supplying water to the heater. All ash and other solid unburned deposits from the process of burning wood from stones are carried away by steam through chimney in atmosphere.

In addition, the possibility of fireclay dust from the walls of the firebox getting into the steam room when serving is excluded. In batch-type brick sauna stoves developed by I. Kuznetsov, this probability remains. Whether this is good or bad - I find it difficult to answer. Studies on the effects on the human body of such emissions have not been conducted. Therefore, it is up to the user of such a sauna stove to decide on the benefits or harms of this factor.

For some bath lovers, the weak side of intermittent brick bath stoves is considered to be an insufficiently high heating temperature of a stone laying in a metal box. The temperature of the stones in the kilns BIK P1 3.5×4 met And BIK 41 rarely exceeds 400ºС. This is due to the fact that the stones are still heated indirectly, through the metal walls of the stone oven. In this case, the convective component of heat transfer is almost completely excluded from the process of heating stones. The radiative component of the heat of the flame of burning wood reaches the stones significantly weakened by the walls of the tank.

In a metal tank, the heating of the heater occurs mainly due to conductive heat transfer between the stones in contact with each other, and to a lesser extent due to radiant energy, but not from an open flame, but from the re-radiation of radiant energy by the heating stones themselves and the walls of the oven tank.

Let me remind you that conductive method of heat transfer (by using the mechanism of heat conduction) involves the transfer of heat between bodies in direct contact with each other. Heat is transferred from a hot to a colder body due to the greater magnitude and intensity of the oscillatory movements of its atoms (molecules) of a heated solid.

convective heat transfer involves the transfer of thermal energy from a heated air environment to a colder solid body due to collisions of heated air molecules with such a body. Since there is practically no air movement in a closed oven for stones, the transfer of its thermal energy by this air to the heating stones is minimized.

Radiative component of heat transfer is caused by radiant energy emitted by a heated medium. In a stove, such a medium is the hot gases emitted by burning wood.

However, in continuous sauna stoves, the radiant energy of burning wood is first absorbed by the walls of the stone oven, and then re-radiated by them both into the tank and out.

Part of the thermal energy of the flame of burning wood, absorbed by the metal walls of the oven tank, is transferred to the stone lining due to conductive heat transfer.

And part of this energy is re-emitted in the form of radiant heat inside the tank to the stones both by the walls of the metal tank itself and by the stones themselves at each other.

Thus, in continuous stoves, stones get less heat energy released by burning wood than a similar heater, but directly heated by the flame of burning wood.

As a result, the heating temperature of the stones inside the metal tank is, as a rule, lower than the temperature of the heater located inside the batch furnace directly in the flow of burning gases.

In batch ovens, the heater is located in the upper part of the firebox and is directly heated by the flame of burning wood. At the same time, the radiant component of burning firewood plays the main role in heating the stone lining. The second and third places in the amount of transferred heat are shared by the convective and conductive components of heat transfer. The ratio of these values ​​​​to each other depends on the type of materials laid in the heater (stone, cast iron), their geometric shape (parallelepiped, ball, ellipsoid, etc.), dimensions.

However, the indisputable advantage of brick stoves with continuous operation is the fact that the stones inside the oven tank installed in such an oven always remain clean, they do not have deposits of soot, ash and fireclay dust, which is inherent in stoves with periodic action!

When submitting to located inside the tank heater portions of boiling water for steam generation, those present in the steam room are not threatened to receive, along with a portion of steam, a portion of soot, ash and fireclay chips flying out of the oven!

In addition, the stones in the tank are heated in a more gentle thermal regime, which directly affects their service life. The service life of a stone backfill in continuous furnaces at least 2 times higher the same indicator for batch ovens.

Even scattered over time under the influence of high temperatures during operation stones heaters in continuous ovens no way cannot affect the quality of the fuel combustion process.

convection channels bath furnace of constant action for the passage of furnace gases, formed at the stage of laying the furnace, remain unchanged during the operation of the furnace. They are not clogged with crumbling stones of the heater. The furnace continues to operate in the same thermal and gas-dynamic conditions, provided for by its original design.

To increase the thermal energy stored by such a heater in order to extend the steaming modes, they put up to 60% cast iron in the form of bars, brake wagon shoes, balls, etc.

I want to note that the temperatures of heating stones up to 350-400ºС is quite sufficient to obtain superheated water vapor, from which you can get excellent steam bath conditions with the presence .

The question is how many people and how long are going to bathe and get the appropriate conditions required for soaring. For a family of 4-6 people, such a furnace is able to provide the required modes for 5-6 hours of soaring. At worst, what prevents you from flooding the stove and heating the stones that have cooled down from the sacrifices? After all, a continuous oven allows you to do this. 🙂

Another bottleneck Kamenka, enclosed in metal cabinets-ovens in bath stoves of constant action, was their property of being ejected to the outside after falling on an already cooled stone laying, in addition to water vapor, also non-evaporated small drops of water.

There were several reasons for this phenomenon:

1) a decrease in the power of vaporization of the heater that has cooled down from the heater (the impossibility of converting the portion of water supplied to the heater into a gaseous state in a few seconds);

2) the surface of the stove, limited in area, participating in vaporization (the surface of stones on which portions of thrown water fell), and which was determined by the design features of the stone oven (in particular, the shape and size of its loading opening);

3) the limited in size (practically closed on all sides) volume of the oven for stones with the cooled down heater contributed to the release of, in addition to steam, the droplet-liquid fraction of water portions thrown onto the heater.

Presence in the air the steam room, in addition to water vapor in the form of a gas, also a suspension of droplet-liquid water did not contribute to the creation of conditions favorable for obtaining an atmosphere of "light steam".

Now let's briefly touch on the issue of heating the steam room with the brick oven itself.

Let me remind you that the main task of the sauna stove in the Russian steam bath is heating up to the required high temperature of the stone laying . The second task of the sauna stove is to heat the steam room. In doing so, it must be observed an important condition: in the process of heating the stones in the oven to the required temperature, in no case should we overheat the steam room. By the time the stones are heated to the maximum temperature possible under these conditions (in our case, not lower than 35 0-400ºС) the temperature in the steam room and all enclosing elements (ceiling, walls, shelves, floor) should not exceed 45-50ºС.

The heating of the steam room with a brick oven is carried out mainly due to the creation of radiant heat transfer by the walls of the oven and heated convection air flows.

Why did the oven get its name?"Russauna"?

The answer to this question is simple. The stove of this design allows you to get steam modes that are typical not only for a Russian bath, but also modes inherent in a dry-air sauna!

So for a Russian bath, this stove allows you to get steam modes in the temperature range Т=45-65 0 С and relative humidity φ=60-90%. If desired, using this model of the stove in the steam room, you can get modes close to the modes of a dry-air sauna - air temperature up to T=90-100 0 С with low relative humidity φ=5-9%.

As you know, in steam rooms with a metal stove (saunas), air convection is necessarily present. Ascending air currents in a sauna with a metal stove are formed in the convection channels formed by the walls of the firebox and the protective metal casing of the stove. Due to the convection of air, the heating of the steam room is accelerated. Air convection is also present when taking bath procedures.

In the steam room of the Russian steam bath, convective air flows are reduced to almost a minimum. The heat content of the air in the steam room is increased by supplying water to hot stones, and even then only during the bath procedures, and not during the preparation of the bath.

In a Russian steam bath, the air temperature is rarely raised to values ​​exceeding 60ºС. To withstand such a temperature at values ​​of absolute air humidity, component d=80-100 g/m 3 for every cubic meter of steam room space, maybe not everyone. The relative humidity of the air under these conditions is φ=60-75%.

But there are lovers of bathing at temperatures 70-80ºС and at the same time wishing to obtain the same absolute humidity d=80-100 g/m 3(relative humidity φ=30-40%).

Here we will not characterize these conditions: good or bad. In the end, everyone chooses for himself what he likes. We will only note the fact that the sauna stove makes it possible to get in the steam room as the modes inherent in the classic steam Russian bath (T=50-60ºС,d=80-100g/m3, φ=60-75%), as well as temperature and humidity regimes, which occupy an intermediate position between the regimes of a classic steam Russian bath and the regimes of a high-temperature dry-air sauna (T=90-100ºС, d=40-60 g/m3, φ=5-9%).

In other words, who loves it hot, he can easily get the conditions T = 70-80ºС in his steam room, d=80-100 g/m3, φ=30-40%.

This is achieved due to the fact that the tank for stones of a new design allows you to organize an additional convection air flow for heating the steam room, coming from inside the tank through one of the nozzles for outputting superheated steam to the outside.

This phenomenon becomes possible due to the phenomenon of some uneven heating of different sides of the tank inside the furnace.

If you bring your palm to the outlet of the holes in the tank for the release of steam, you can feel that heated air comes out through one of these holes, and the air from the steam room is sucked into the other hole.

If there is no desire to overheat the steam room due to additional air convection through the tank with stones, it is enough to cover one or both of these holes, for example, with one or two stones. When water is supplied to the stones through the funnel of a metal oven-heater, the necks of the steam pipes are freed from stones, thereby freeing up passages for overheated steam to enter the steam room.

As a rule, the upper surface of the tank is hidden with a layer of stones. These stones not only give the stove a more aesthetic appearance, but at the same time perform such an important function as shielding the steam room from hard radiation emitted by the heated upper surface of the tank (Fig.5).

Another indisputable advantage of the new RusSauna sauna stove became a factor of her elevated(compared to other continuous ovens) maintainability and ease of use.

If necessary, the stone oven can be easily removed from the oven and thus accessed to its interior for routine maintenance.

Since the stones are inside the metal tank, they do not have any mechanical effect on the fireclay walls of the firebox. The pressure from the spacer forces of the heated stones is experienced only by the walls of the tank. But this trouble can be dealt with quite easily.

To protect the bottom and side walls of the tank from the action of spacer forces created by heated stones, inside the tank can be laid horizontally and be established vertically along the walls cast iron grate. If a couple of grates install vertically in the middle of the tank between the stones, then in this case we can achieve more uniform heating of the stone lining in height . This happens due to the fact that cast iron has a higher thermal conductivity compared to stone, and therefore delivers heat faster from the bottom of the tank to upper layers heaters.

Installation/removal of grates in/from the tank/a is carried out through the filling hole located in the upper surface of the tank, which is further closed with a metal lid with a watering can for giving portions of water to the heater.

In I. Kuznetsov's continuous brick kilns of earlier years of design, such an operation (installation / removal of grates) was not so convenient due to the existing design of metal oven tanks.

In addition, in the brick ovens of the author of earlier years of production, the repair / replacement of the stone oven tank required partial dismantling of the outer brick and inner fireclay masonry of the oven. Which, you see, was not convenient and required much more labor.

Fig.5. Sauna stove "RusSauna" performed by A.M. Shalagin

Let's summarize briefly.

From the foregoing, it can be seen that the new model of the brick sauna stove developed by Igor Viktorovich Kuznetsov "RusSauna" has a number of strong points. The features of this stove not only eliminated the weaknesses of the previous bath stoves of constant operation, but also made it possible to obtain a wide range of temperature and humidity conditions in the steam room, which are typical not only for a steam Russian bath, but also close to the regimes of a high-temperature dry-air sauna.

In terms of its characteristics, this stove is as close as possible to the characteristics of batch-type brick sauna stoves, and even surpassed many of them in terms of its capabilities!

This oven model has become almost universal!

Well, that's all for now!

In the future, on the pages of the blog, we will consider the design features of this furnace model.

In baths designed for one family and heated with wood, brick stoves-heaters of periodic action are usually used, in which stones are heated by flue gases passing through them. Such furnaces are about 30% more economical than combined furnaces and allow faster heating of stones to the required temperature. With intensive heating of the furnace, the lower layers of stone filling can be heated up to 1000-1100 ° C, the upper layers - up to 500-600 ° C. At such temperatures, the soot burns out and the stones remain clean. The only drawback of intermittent furnaces is the need to wait for complete combustion of the fuel or to remove the remnants of unburned fuel, so that carbon monoxide did not get into the bath when the chamber was opened.

The most compact are metal stoves of a simplified design without a tank for heating water. On fig. 51 shows one of these structures. In a metal box - a body with doors - grates with a stove are laid on the shelves from the corners, forming the bottom of the combustion chamber. Bricks are installed on them along the perimeter of this chamber, forming a screen to reduce thermal radiation. Case thickness - not less than 4 mm. Steel gratings are laid on the bricks, fixing the bricks in a vertical position and serving as a pallet for stone backfill. All internal parts are installed through a removable cover. During the top-ke of the furnace, flue gases enter the pipe, passing through the stone backfill. Water is heated in buckets or rectangular tanks placed on the lid.

Rice. 51. Metal heater of periodic action1- frame;2, 3 - doors;4- shelf;5- grate;6 - plate;7 - bricks;8 - stones;9 - lid;10 - latticesteel

The most perfect heaters with built-in containers for heating water. They can replace the brick reinforcement of the combustion chamber from one or more sides, and can also be made in the form of a wall of the entire furnace.

The domestic industry does not yet produce metal batch furnaces. However, such a stove can be assembled from a washer stove and a metal barrel by making a steam door in the barrel and providing it with nozzles for connecting to a washer stove and a chimney.

On fig. 52 given appearance and a diagram of a metal heater of foreign design. The furnace has internal reinforcement. The damper and channels for supplying secondary air to the firebox provide more complete combustion of fuel and its economical consumption.

Rice. 52. Heater of foreign design1 - metal case;2 - reinforcement;3 - firebox door;4 - grate;5 - blower door;6 - dampersecondary air;7 - manhole cover; 8-smoke exhaust cartridgeside;9 - stones

On fig. 53,but the external view of a brick stove-chi-heater of a reinforced design without a water-heating tank is shown. The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The width of the gaps (the distance between the brick arches) is 5-8 cm.

For more full use heat, the stove is equipped with chimneys in the form of sinkholes and a common prefabricated chimney connecting the upper part of the stone chamber with chimney(not shown in the figure). In order to increase the strength, the furnace is enclosed in a frame made of steel corners. On fig. 53, b shows a diagram of a brick stove with a hot water boiler. The stone chamber has two doors. Sometimes chimneys are made that pass flue gases from the space around the boiler to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Rice. 53. Brick ovens-heaters of periodic actionbut- without hot water tank;b -with hot water boiler

On fig. 54 the external view and the scheme of the heater with a hot tray for the water tank are given. The foundation for it is laid 4 rows of bricks lower than for other structures. This ensures air heating below the floor (warm floor) and the installation of a water tank at floor level. The flue gases from the stone chamber enter the horizontal flues below the ash pan through the drain channel and enter the vertical flue. When the stove is kindled, the lower damper is opened, which communicates the stone chamber directly with the vertical chimney. After the appearance of draft in the pipe, the lower damper must be closed.

Rice. 54. Brick heater with a hot tray for a water tanka - appearance and design;b- laying order

A two-burner stove can have other sizes. It can also be replaced by two single-burner stoves with dimensions of 47x32 or 48X32 cm. Steel plates with a size of 15X5X0.3 cm (you can change the dimensions) are laid between the 3rd and 4th rows of bricks. It is advisable to take the rods for laying between the bricks of the 13th and 15th rows smooth, so that during thermal elongation they easily slide between the bricks. It is convenient to use crowbars for this purpose. Holes in the masonry at the ends of the rods must be sealed with asbestos cord and plastered on the outside. The inner rods can be closed from above with a blind plate. In this case, it is necessary to install a steam door on the side of the chamber, similar to the top-liver door. The stove above the stone chamber can be used to heat water in buckets.

The designs of brick stoves, both periodic and combined, are diverse. Everyone improves and adapts them in their own way, based on the availability and size of available appliances, hot water tanks, boilers, etc. Sometimes electric ones are used to heat water, gas stoves and water heaters, laundry stoves, and for heating the bathhouse and generating steam - heaters of a simplified design. They are convenient in baths with a usable volume of more than 15 m 3 for large families and in small public baths. For an example on rice. 55 another design of the stove-chi-heater is given, which allows you to simultaneously heat the steam room, washing room and dressing room. It is heated from the pre-bannik, the steam door goes into the steam room, and the heating shield - into the washing room. On the shield there are two lowering channels and one lifting channel passing into the pipe. A ventilation grill with a valve is inserted into the wall of the lifting channel from the side of the washing room to remove steam from the washing room. The damper can only be opened after the furnace has been completed and the dampers of both downcomers have been closed.

Rice. 55. Heater with heating plate1, 2, 3 - doors blower, furnace and for var;4, 5 gate valves for the drain and lift channels of the heating shield;6 - cleaning doors;7 - masonry of the combustion chamber from refractory brickswhose

V. A. Safin We are building a bath. - M .: Stroyizdat, 1990. - 192s.

The main place in the bath is occupied by a stove-heater. It can be permanent or intermittent.

Bake permanent action has thin walls and a small volume of stones. As a rule, it can maintain a temperature of 300 to 350 ° C and is equipped with an automatic control and regulation device. Such a furnace is heated with the help of electricity, solid, liquid or gaseous fuels. In this type of furnace, the combustion chamber and flue gas channels are fenced off with a steel wall or cast iron stove from stone fill.

Bake periodical action It has thick brickwork and a large volume of stones. The stone filling of the furnace in the lower part can be heated up to 1100 ° C, and in the upper part - up to 500 ° C. Furnaces of this type are heated, as a rule, with firewood. Maximum heat production with minimum fuel use is possible only if the fuel burns completely. This is largely facilitated by the use of grates. Through them, the air from the blower has uniform access to the entire surface of the fuel. It is possible to increase the efficiency of the furnace by increasing the volume of its heating parts and reducing the thickness and thermal conductivity of the walls.

The device of the stove-heater

The main part of any stove-heater is the firebox, which is a chamber for burning fuel. In fireboxes intended for solid fuels, a grate is located at a depth of 30 cm from the level of the door. The walls of the firebox should be slightly beveled so that, as it burns, solid fuel rolls onto the grate.

Under the grate there is an ash pan designed to collect ash and regulate the air entering the furnace compartment. Air passes through the layer of fuel and contributes to its complete combustion. You can increase or decrease the air supply using blower door.

To control the draft in the chimney or in the chimney, a valve is installed. It closes only after the fuel burns out completely. Otherwise, carbon monoxide accumulated in the oven can lead to severe poisoning.

stones in the heater, it is better to put it on a grate of steel rods located above the firebox.

In furnaces closed type at the level top row stones are made special steam door. It opens directly before using the steam room. You can heat water in tank or in serpentine. The tank is installed in the furnace, and the coil - in the firebox.

Continuous heater

The most convenient among the stoves of continuous operation is the stove-heater with electric heating.

To heat the bath, as a rule, an electric furnace of a closed type with metal box upstairs filled with rocks. Such an oven is capable of heating the air up to 110–120 ° C. In the sauna, the number of stones in the box should be minimal, and in the bath with wet steam, the maximum.

There are also no gaseous stoves on sale. Instead, many use convectors, heaters, fireplaces that run on liquefied gas. But they are not able to provide a high temperature. Therefore, in saunas, conventional stoves with a gas burner are installed.

Since gas is the most flammable fuel, liquid fuels are most often used in continuous heaters: furnace distilled fuel, diesel fuel, kerosene, fuel oil, coal tar, and in winter - only diesel fuel or kerosene that does not solidify in the cold.

Two methods are used in stoves for atomizing and mixing liquid fuel with air: spraying drops on the bottom of the burner and evaporation from a thin layer at the bottom of the burner.

On the rice. 60 the scheme of the furnace according to the first type is presented - with spraying. The burner in such a furnace can be made from an old engine piston by drilling several holes in it for air supply and filling it with stones. The dropper must be installed so that it is possible to control the flow of fuel. The tube that connects the dropper to the fuel tank must have a filter and two valves: at the tank after the filter to stop the fuel supply and at the stove to regulate it. On the rice. 61 the scheme of the furnace according to the second type is given - with evaporation. The principle of its operation is similar to the principle of operation of the previous furnace, with the only difference being that the fuel enters the glass not from above, but from below. In such a furnace, the fuel supply should be more carefully regulated, and the bottom of the glass should be located strictly horizontally.

Rice. 60. Scheme of a stove-heater with fuel spray: 1 - chimney; 2 - stones; 3 - furnace firebox; 4 - dropper; 5 - peephole; 6 - burner cup; 7 - firebox door; 8 - valves; 9 - tube for fuel supply; 10 - overflow tube; 11 - wall of the room; 12 - filter; 13 – fuel tank; 14 - drain tank

Rice. 61. Scheme of a heater-heater with fuel evaporation: 1 - furnace combustion chamber; 2 - burner body; 3, 4 - doors; 5 - hole for air; 6 - mixing ring; 7 - bottom of the hull filled with fuel; 8 - valves; 9 - filter; 10, 11 - pipes for overflow and fuel supply; 12 – fuel tank; 13 – level regulator; 14 - drain tank

Among imported stoves operating on liquid and gaseous fuels, Vesta (Germany) deserves special attention, which is available in six versions for steam rooms of various sizes, and more powerful Finnish stoves.

In Russia, unfortunately, such stoves are not produced, but heating and cooking devices using liquid fuel, for example, models 2403, can be adapted instead. machine-building plant and some other companies. In a small sauna, they can heat the air to a temperature of 130–140 ° C. A converted laundry stove can be used as a stove-heater. To do this, stones must be placed in the water tank, and the firebox must be overlaid with bricks from the outside.

But the simplest among ovens continuous action homemade stoves made of sheet steel with single and double walls are considered. Double-walled stoves are more convenient, as the space between them can be used to produce hot water.

The simplest designs of such furnaces are presented in rice. 62.

Rice. 62. Heater stoves with a built-in water tank: a - a stove with single walls; b - a heater with a side wall in the form of a water tank; c - a heater with water tanks and an air gap in the wall

The main advantage of metal stoves is that they quickly heat up the room, are safe, and take up little space.

Combined action stove

As a rule, combined action ovens are made of brick, but they can also be made of metal. They work most often on liquid fuel. They can be heated before using the bath or, if necessary, continue heating during washing.

In all brick ovens of this type, the firebox is separated from the stone chamber by heat-resistant material (cast iron or sheet steel). This allows you to get steam without stopping the furnace.

Most simple options combined heaters - without a water heater - are presented on rice. 63.

Rice. 63. Brick stoves-heaters without a water heater: a - using a metal box; b - using an exhausted boiler; 1 - blower door; 2 - grate; 3 – firebox door; 4 - plate; 5 - valve; 6 - metal box; 7 - stones; 8 - steam door; 9 - refractory bricks; 10 - boiler

But more convenient is a stove-heater with a built-in tank for heating water. To increase or, conversely, reduce the rate of water heating, a sheet of asbestos cardboard is placed between the tank and the stones.

Batch stove

For heating with wood, the best are economical stoves-heaters of periodic action. Their only drawback is that it is possible to use a bath with such a stove only after the fuel has completely burned out, so as not to get poisoned. carbon monoxide.

A compact metal oven without a water tank is shown on rice. 64. The thickness of its walls should be at least 4–5 mm. Such an oven can be easily made from a commercially available laundry stove and a metal barrel.

Rice. 64. Metal stove-heater of periodic action: 1 - body; 2, 3 - doors; 4 - shelf; 5 - grate; 6 - plate; 7 - bricks; 8 - stones; 9 - cover; 10 - steel grating

But still, the most popular among furnaces of this type are brick heaters. On the rice. 65 two variants of such a furnace are shown: without a water-heating tank and with a water-heating boiler.

Rice. 65. Brick stoves-heaters of periodic action: a - without a water-heating tank; b - with a hot water boiler

Brick oven masonry

The transverse dimensions of the foundation must exceed the dimensions of the furnace itself by half a brick on each side. A gap filled with sand should separate it from the foundation of the wall, and the depth of the pit should be at least 50 cm.

The foundation for the stove is made, as a rule, from the same material as the foundation of the entire bath.

The surface of the foundation is leveled with cement mortar and covered with a double layer of waterproofing material.

For masonry, ordinary solid bricks are usually used, and for laying a firebox - refractory (when using firewood) or refractory (when using other types of fuel). Before use, ordinary bricks must be held in water for 1-2 minutes.

For laying ordinary bricks, a solution of clay and sand is used in a ratio of 1: 1. First, the clay must be soaked with water and after a day add enough water to it to bring it to the consistency of sour cream with stirring. After straining, sifted sand is added to the clay. The whole mass is thoroughly mixed. A mortar for masonry of refractory or refractory bricks is prepared from clay and fireclay.

The distance between ordinary bricks in the masonry should not exceed 4-5 mm, and between refractory and refractory - 3 mm. Every 4 rows it is necessary to wipe the inner surface of the masonry with a wet cloth. In order for the walls of the furnace to be even, after the second row, guide cords with plumb lines are installed in the corners, fixing them on nails driven into the floor and ceiling. It is not allowed to bind the laying of ordinary bricks with the laying of refractory or refractory bricks, since the degree of their expansion under the influence of high temperatures is different.

During the laying process, the installation of metal parts of the furnace takes place. To install the firebox door, you must first attach hooped iron paws to its frame, and wrap it yourself with a cloth or asbestos cord. The jumper above the firebox door is locked into a lock. Other doors and dampers are fastened to the masonry with a wire with a cross section of 2 mm.

When installing the grate and the slab above the firebox, a small gap must be left between them and the masonry and filled with sand.

If your bath will be heated with wood, then you can limit yourself to the minimum dimensions of the firebox: width - 25-30 cm, height - 35-40 cm; but if possible, it is recommended to increase the height of the firebox to 50–60 cm. So that coals do not fall out of the furnace with the door open, the bottom of the firebox should be below the frame of the furnace door.

The inside of the chimneys must not be covered with clay, so that when it dries, its pieces do not fall off and fall into the chimney.

The bricks of the upper three rows are laid flat with a dressing. If their vertical seams match, then the rows should be covered with steel sheets.

The chimney is built on the array of the entire furnace. It is laid out, like a stove, in half a brick and coated with cement or lime mortar. The height of the pipe above the roof should be at least 50–60 cm.

The brick pipe must be removed from the wooden parts of the bath by at least 25–40 cm, depending on whether they have fire protection or not, and the metal pipe, respectively, by 75–100 cm.

In addition, when installing a metal pipe, all wooden parts of the roof and ceiling are covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar and sheathed with sheets of roofing steel.

The joints of a metal or asbestos-cement pipe with brickwork are reinforced with a waterproof mortar. Outside the pipe must be covered heat-insulating material so that condensation does not form.

It is desirable to install a deflector (a metal cone) on the upper end of the pipe, which will protect it from rain and snow and ensure that gases are sucked in by the wind.

At the end of the work, the oven should be plastered with one of the following solutions, adding one tenth of asbestos to them: gypsum, lime, sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1; clay, sand in a ratio of 1: 2; clay, cement, sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 3.

Before plastering, the surface of the furnace must be properly prepared: clean it of clay, clear the seams to a depth of 7–10 mm, and then, having heated the furnace well, moisten it with water.

A plastered stove can be whitewashed with lime mortar by adding a little clay to it. The part of the pipe located in the attic must be whitewashed so that cracks are clearly visible on it.

backfill

For stone filling, natural cobblestones hardened by the sun and water, as well as stones of volcanic origin (basalt, granite, etc.), are best suited. But you can also use stones from siliceous rocks, which are found on the banks of natural reservoirs.

The main criteria for selection of stones should be the following: smooth Smooth surface, appropriate dimensions (at least 10–15 cm in diameter), high density, ability to withstand high temperatures, retain heat and not crack when in contact with cold water.

Large stones should be laid down, and smaller stones should be placed on top. In order for the bath to heat up faster, cast-iron chocks or steel blanks must be placed vertically between the stones.

Instead of natural stones, you can use pieces of broken ceramics, porcelain or burnt bricks.

Fire safety rules

In order for the use of the bath to give you only pleasure, and not be a source of big trouble during its operation, the following fire safety measures must be observed.

Wooden and other flammable parts of the bath should be insulated or located at a considerable distance from the hot parts of the stove and chimney. As insulators, it is necessary to use materials that are fireproof or have low thermal conductivity.

If a stove with thick walls is laid out on a combustible base, then the distance from the floor to the bottom of the ash pan should be at least 14 cm, and to the bottom of the smoke turns - 21 cm. In the same stove on a fireproof base, the bottom of the ash pan and all smoke turns can be gender.

Frame thin-walled stoves should be separated from the wooden floor with asbestos cardboard 12 mm thick and roofing steel stuffed over it. Metal furnaces are installed on a base consisting of two rows of bricks lying on a double layer of felt impregnated with clay mortar. On the floor at the furnace door they nail a metal sheet, which protects the floor from coals that have fallen out of the furnace.

Between oven and wooden wall or a partition there must be a gap of 13 cm, and between the nearest chimney and the wall - 25 cm. The gap between the stove and the wall is laid with a brick.

The combustible wall around the furnace door must be plastered or upholstered with roofing steel, under which felt is impregnated with clay mortar. The distance from the furnace door to the opposite wall must be at least 1.5 m.

The distance from the combustible ceiling to the upper floors of the heat-consuming furnace should be 35 cm for furnaces with a mass of more than 750 kg and 45 cm for furnaces with a mass of less than 750 kg. The same distance for a non-heat-intensive stove should be 1 m. The chimney and smoke channels should be at least 13 cm from the rafters, lathing, metal and wooden beams- by 25 cm.

The roof at the points of contact with the chimney is covered with iron or roofing steel.

Cracks in the stove and chimney should be repaired in a timely manner, as well as the smoke channels should be cleaned from soot accumulated in them.

Brick oven-heater of periodic action

Let us consider in more detail the technique of erecting a brick oven-heater of periodic action (Fig. 22). The firebox of such a furnace is made of refractory bricks and has a slotted vault designed for stone filling. The width of the slots can vary from 5 to 8 cm.

Rice. 22. Brick oven-heater of periodic action: but- without hot water tank; b- with hot water boiler

The furnace must be equipped with chimneys in the form of pits. To give greater strength, it is recommended to finish it with steel corners. The chamber for stones, as a rule, is equipped with two doors.

It is not uncommon for chimneys to be arranged in such a way that they allow flue gases to pass from the area around the duct to the lower part of the stone chamber.

The construction of a massive brick stove-heater should begin with the laying of its foundation. To prevent the furnace from settling and tilting due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation must be deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions must be larger than the furnace ones by half a brick in each direction, i.e., in general, per brick. The distance from the furnace foundation to the wall foundation must be at least 5 cm, and the gap between them must be filled with sand. The bottom of the pit should be tamped and leveled using a special level. The most suitable foundation is considered to be concrete or rubble concrete. In dry ground, it can be made from bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Master's advice

For the preparation of lime mortar, slaked lime and sifted sand are used in a ratio of 1: 2 to 1: 3. Cement mortar, in which the ratio of cement and sand is 1: 3, is recommended to be prepared in small portions in order to have time to apply it before setting.

To mix a lime-cement mortar, you will need cement, lime and sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 10.

The foundation surface should be poured with cement mortar, leveled with a lath and covered on top with waterproofing roofing or roofing felt in two layers.

The main material for laying such furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the first grade. It is strictly forbidden to use perforated and silicate bricks, as they quickly collapse. Refractory and refractory bricks are most suitable for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Refractory bricks are used for burning firewood, and refractory (chamotte) bricks are used for burning hard coal, liquid fuel, gas.

The basis of high-quality masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams. This is necessary so that combustion products do not enter the bath room, which can cause carbon monoxide poisoning. Masonry seams should be filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal. If ordinary brick is used, then the joint thickness should not exceed 5 mm, and for refractory and refractory bricks, it should not exceed 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution can be spread by hand, with a trowel it is allowed to spread it only to the floor of the firebox and the bottom of the smoke channels.

It is necessary to ensure the smoothness of the internal surfaces of the furnaces. For this, chipped and hewn bricks have rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a damp bast brush or rag.

You can proceed to the laying of the next row only after all the bricks of the previous row have been laid. It is recommended that prior to laying on the mortar, it is recommended to make an approximate layout of bricks without mortar.

After the first row is laid, the correct angles should be checked using a special square or cord. After laying the second row at the corners of the oven, it is necessary to arrange guide cords with cut-offs. They should be hung with nails from the ceiling, and wound on nails from below, recessed into the seams between the two lower rows.

When laying bricks, it is important to follow the rules for their dressing: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick located next to it. It is strictly forbidden to bandage the laying of ordinary bricks with the laying of refractory or refractory bricks, since when the temperature rises, they have different expansion.

Furnace appliance doors, valves, grates, stoves and water boxes must be installed during bricklaying. The door frame should be mounted in the masonry using special paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The legs must be attached to the frame with rivets. Before fixing in place, the frame should be wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. If there is no asbestos between the frame of the firebox door and the brickwork, then a gap of 3–4 mm wide must be left around the entire perimeter. This is necessary so that the frame, when heated, cannot push the masonry apart. In order to ensure the strength of the lintel, the firebox door must be closed in the “locked” manner, that is, when the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks. Other doors and damper frames must be fixed to the masonry with wire.

The grate is mounted with slots along the firebox. To expand the lattice between its edges and masonry bricks, it is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 mm. It must be filled with sand. The same gap should be made between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

One of the most important parts of the furnace is the firebox. For firewood firewood, its smallest width should be one brick, i.e., be 25 cm, and the minimum height should be 35 cm. The greater the height of the firebox, the better conditions fuel combustion. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm. In the lower part of the wall, the firebox should be made with a slope towards the grate so that the coals rest on the grate during combustion.

The design of smoke circuits affects the uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace. Their inner surface must be even.

It should not be covered with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and can clog the chimney.

The upper wall of the furnace (roof) consists of three rows of bricks, which are laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the upper walls coincide, they should be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

The pipe for the heater must be mounted, i.e., located on the stove array. In this case, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and pipe, as well as the flow area of ​​the smoke channels and pipes must be at least half a brick. The pipe must be brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface. For this, it is recommended to use a cement or lime mortar, but not clay, as it is easily washed out by rain and condensate that forms inside the pipe.

In order to comply with fire safety, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the brick surface of the stove and the combustible structure, i.e., the wooden parts of the bath. It should be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and more than 25 cm with the existing protection. If the furnace and the pipe are made of metal, then these distances should be increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. Between the brick pipe and wooden elements roofs, a free distance of at least 10 cm must be left. When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt, pre-impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally sheathed with roofing steel. There should not be a gap between the pipe and the roof, so it should be closed with a galvanized steel apron. On a wooden floor in front of the furnace door, it is recommended to install a metal sheet measuring at least 70 x 50 cm.

Master's advice

Solutions of the following compositions are suitable for plastering the furnace - gypsum: lime: sand (2: 2: 1); clay: lime: sand (1:1:3); clay: cement: sand (1:1:3); clay:sand (1:2). Regardless of the choice of solution, it is recommended to add 0.1–0.2 parts of asbestos to it.

From the book Bath Building Tips the author Khatskevich Yu G

From the book How to build a rural house author Shepelev Alexander Mikhailovich

From the book Construction of a bath and sauna author Shukhman Yuri Ilyich

From the book Stoves for baths and saunas with their own hands author Kalyuzhny Sergey Ivanovich

From the author's book

From the author's book

From the author's book

From the author's book

BRICK MASONRY Used mainly for laying foundations and walls. It can be 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2, 3 or more bricks thick, or 120, 250, 380, 510, 640, 770 mm, respectively. The thickness of the masonry depends on the purpose of the structure and local climatic conditions. Performed on various

From the author's book

6.2. Classical brick Actually, the classic brick stove-heater is considered in the section on designing a bath, since it is proposed to design there, that is, “dance from the stove”. There are many similar constructions in the corresponding literature. masonry

From the author's book

Compact stove-heater A compact stove-heater (Fig. 12) of continuous operation can be arranged on the basis of the so-called laundry stove. To do this, stones must be loaded into the tank instead of water, and water can be heated in a bucket mounted on stones. Stove-heater

From the author's book

Metal stove combined with a kitchen stove The dimensions of the metal stove combined with a kitchen stove are 40 x 50 cm. During its operation, the temperature in the steam room can be maintained up to 100 °C. These ovens don't require a lot of space to set up.

From the author's book

Small-sized stove-heater with the top placement of the tank hot water tank(Fig. 15, 16). The volume of the chamber for stones and the capacity of the tank are 40 liters each. The tank is located on the slab next to the stones. Regulation

From the author's book

Small-sized stove-heater with a lower tank placement The design of a small-sized stove-heater with a bottom tank placement (Fig. 17, 18) differs from other small-sized stoves in a larger furnace length and a capacious stone chamber volume (50 l). In addition, she has

From the author's book

A stove-heater for small family baths In small bathhouses, it is enough to install one stove, which should be located in the center of the bath so that most of it with the stove is in the washing room (Fig. 19, 20). For building a stove

From the author's book

A stove-heater without a water heater When installing a stove-heater without a water heater (Fig. 21), a metal box or a cast-iron boiler can be used as an impenetrable partition. The stones will heat up very quickly, since its surface is washed by hot

From the author's book

Universal stove-heater designed by A. Suzdaltsev The universal stove-heater designed by A. Suzdaltsev (Fig. 24) has an internal firebox and a chamber attached to it with filling of stones, fenced off by a cast-iron stove. The water heater is