Decorating the sauna stove with decorative stone. Installing a stove in a bath with a remote firebox: we install the stove with our own hands

23.06.2020

What is the best way to decorate a wall behind a wood-burning stove in a sauna? Welded metal stove, metal 4mm thick. From the stove to the wall about 20-25cm. The better to finish the wall so that the lining does not get charred and does not catch fire. Are soapstone or coil slabs suitable? And can they be glued directly to the lining?

You're right. For the safe functioning of a metal oven, the distance specified by you (20-25cm) to wooden surface the wall is not enough. Metal furnaces are characterized by active heat radiation, turning red from heating at the peak moments of the furnace. The wooden surface of the wall, or the ceiling partition, heating up to 100 ̊С, is guaranteed to catch fire. This is especially true for wood in a steam room, where it is constantly dried to minimum moisture values.

One of ideal options for a metal stove in a bath is shown in the photo. The stove is partially covered with bricks on three sides, which allows additional heat accumulation. Also on the wall there is a screen made of fireproof material. It can be a layer of basalt cardboard or cotton wool, with a galvanized sheet on top of it.

Double wall protection

It is better to connect the heat-insulating material of the screen with “grooves”.

Alignment of joints of thermal insulation

Talcochlorite is an excellent decorative material. It is most often used for cladding stoves and fireplaces, and sometimes even for laying stoves. Its main pluses in our case become minuses. This material perfectly accumulates and transfers heat, as evidenced by the heating of the surface on which it is installed. Therefore, if your choice fell on this stone, we can suggest replacing part of the wall (or the flammable inner lining) with brick. It can even be decorative. And on this area, you can already put soapstone tiles on heat-resistant glue for lining stoves and fireplaces.

The same recommendations apply to coil products. In a high-quality performance, this protection option will not only look harmonious and be the highlight of the sauna, but also provide you with almost 100% fire safety.

Option with talcochlorite

Easy and safe steam for you!

How to decorate the wall behind the sauna stove: cladding options

What material is better to use for finishing the wall behind the wood-burning stove in the sauna, so that the lining does not get charred and does not catch fire. Sauna stove and wall cladding

Protecting walls in a bath from stove heat: how to make a protective screen or sheathing correctly

When you heat the bath for taking procedures, the surface of the stove can heat up to 300-400 degrees. In the process, it emits infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The radiated heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it touches the walls, which are located near the wall. If the walls in your steam room are made of wood, the heat will cause them to char. And this can cause fire and fire. Despite the advertisements of various wood protection products and other options for eliminating this problem, the most effective insulation method has been and remains the arrangement of a protective screen and sheathing made of non-flammable materials.

In what situations do you need wall protection?

There are situations where wall protection near the stove is not needed. For example, if there is a safe distance between the stove and the nearest surface from the point of view of fire regulations. This distance should be enough to scatter infrared rays so that they are weakened and their number does not damage the wall.

fireproof distance from the metal stove to the walls of the bath

The distance from the wall is considered safe:

to a brick oven (with masonry in ¼ bricks) - not less than 0.32 m;
to a furnace made of metal not lined - not less than 1 m.
to a metal furnace lined with bricks or chamotte inside - not less than 0.7 m.

Such a safe, fire-prevention distance can basically only be organized in steam rooms with impressive parameters. In more miniature family-type steam rooms, when there is a need to save every centimeter, it is not a justified luxury to install the stove at such a distance. Therefore, for such small steam rooms, it is better to use screens or special sheathing to protect the walls.

Protective screen around the oven.

The shield is an insulating shield that covers the sides of the oven and reduces the amount of heat rays. Screens can be made of bricks or metal. They are mainly used for metal furnaces.

Option number 1 - metal screen.

The most commonly used protective screen is made of steel or cast iron sheets, bought ready-made. It is mounted around the stove, 1-5 cm away from the walls of the firebox. There are side and front screens, choose depending on which side of the stove you need to close. Often, manufacturers make ovens already equipped with a screen - a casing.

bath walls protection - metal screen

The protective screen makes it possible to reduce the temperature of the outer surfaces of the stove to 80-100 degrees, thereby reducing the safe distance to 50 cm.As a result, the distance from the firebox to the wall, including with an assembly gap of 1-5 cm, will be 51-55 cm. The screen protector is not difficult, it is usually equipped with legs that just need to be bolted to the floor.

Option number 2 - a protective brick screen.

With this screen, you can close all the side parts of the oven, thus making the outer casing for it. As a result, the stove will stand in a brick casing.

Or you can simply separate the oven and the fire hazardous surface with such a screen.

The material for the screen used as wall protection is a corpulent fireclay brick... For binding, take a solution on cement or clay. Craftsmen advise to lay the brickwork in half a brick (thickness 12 cm.) But if you do not have enough material, you can make a screen in ¼ of a brick (6 cm.), But this will lead to a decrease in the thermal insulation performance of the protective wall by half. And then you need to take such changes into account when calculating the safe distance.

protection of the walls of the bath - brick screen

When laying, small holes should be left in the lower part (sometimes with furnace doors). They will serve to create air exchange in the space between the stove and the screen.

The height of the brick screen must exceed the height of the stove by at least 20 cm. There are times when the protective screen is laid out to the ceiling.

They make such a screen not close to the stove - you need to leave 5-15 cm. In order for the protection of the walls to be a reliable optimal distance between the screen and the wall, it should be from 5 to 15 cm. Using a protective brick screen, you can reduce the distance from the stove to the wall to 22- 42 cm (stove + 5-15 cm gap + 12 cm brick + 5-15 cm gap + wall),

Non-combustible wall cladding for protection.

Any wall that is adjacent to a red-hot stove is not immune to spontaneous combustion. To prevent overheating of the walls, it is advised to use special sheathing, which consists of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Bath construction

The claddings, which include non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets, have proven themselves very well. So on a wooden surface you need to attach thermal insulation material, and already on top of it is a sheet of stainless steel. Someone uses galvanized steel, but there is information that when heated, it can emit harmful substances. So it's better to use stainless steel.

To increase the efficiency of such cladding, you need to polish the metal sheet well. A specular surface will improve the reflection of heat rays from the wood and naturally prevent it from heating up. Another plus is that by redirecting the hard IR rays back to the steam room, the stainless metal makes them softer and easier for people to perceive.

reflective wall cladding

Under a sheet of metal, you can install the following material for thermal insulation:

Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation and increased hygroscopicity. It is safe even in the extreme conditions of the steam room, and it does not burn.
Basalt cardboard - basalt fiber in the form of thin sheets. Refractory, sound and heat insulating material.
Asbestos cardboard is a refractory heat-insulating material in sheets. It is characterized by excellent strength, durability and the ability to protect surfaces prone to fire from ignition.
Minerite - non-combustible stoves, which are made specifically to create screens near stoves, fireplaces and other surfaces in a bath or sauna that can easily catch fire.

The following sheathing scheme is popular:

Wall - ventilation gap 2-3cm. - insulation 1-2 cm. - metal sheet. The safe distance from the stove to the wall is at least 38 cm.

Ceramic bushings are used to fix the cladding to the wall. They do not heat up and additionally serve to create a ventilation gap between the wall and the layer of heat-insulating material.

If you did not manage to install the stove at a safe distance, then you need to make the cladding in two layers of heat-insulating material. In this version, the sheets are fixed through the bushings, maintaining a gap of 2-3 cm, and the top sheet is covered with a metal sheet.

Russian bath project

Reflective sheathing is an excellent protection against heat and fire from wood walls, but it may not always look nice and appropriate in a steam room. If you have a steam room with a certain design or decor, you can disguise such a covering with heat-resistant tiles. For laying such tiles, you need to use heat-resistant glue.

Wall protection near the lined stove can be made of the following materials:

Terracotta tiles are made from fired clay and have excellent strength, heat resistance and durability. Terracotta can be matte or glazed, with shades ranging from pastel yellow to brick red.
Clinker tiles are clay tiles similar to facing bricks. Its structure is denser than that of terracotta. Maybe we love the color, even white or black, or not at all usual for tiles - blue or green.
Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. A characteristic feature is an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front part.
Porcelain stoneware is a tile of increased strength and heat resistance. Different way processing the front side forms a different surface. Porcelain stoneware can imitate stone, brick or wood. The color palette includes natural shades, from white to black.
Talcochlorite is a natural mountain stone of gray or green hue. Distinctive features: fire resistance, water resistance, strength.

protective sheathing with cladding

Using fire retardant wall tiles will not provide thermal insulation. The walls will heat up anyway. The tile serves only as one component in such a design:

Wall - ventilation gap 2-3 cm. - refractory material in sheets - tiles. The distance from the stove to the tile should be at least 15-20 cm.

Refractory material can be:

Fire-resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKLO) - gypsum plasterboard, which includes fiberglass. It does not deform under the influence of heat.
Minerite is a non-combustible fiber cement board. In addition, it is moisture resistant, not subject to rotting or decomposition.
Glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) is a slab material, which includes fiberglass and magnesia binder. Such material is famous for its properties for heat and sound insulation, and resistance to temperature extremes and the influence of water.

If the wall is protected in compliance with all the rules and the organization of the ventilation gap, then such a sheathing will have a low rate of heat absorption, and the wall will almost not heat up. In addition, the use of tiles for cladding will well mask the protective layer, and you will not spoil the style and design of the steam room.

Protecting walls in a bath from stove heat: how to make a protective screen or sheathing correctly

protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove. why is it needed and what is the distance from the walls to the stove fireproof. Protective screens, protective sheathing and sheathing with cladding

Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove: the rules for the construction of protective screens and sheathing

During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the stove heats up to 300-400 ° C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures their charring begins. And there it is already a stone's throw from the fire! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and claddings made of non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed at all?

The need to install protective skins and screens does not always arise. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest flammable surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the infrared rays are scattered, weakened and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer lead to its damage.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick kiln (quarter-brick masonry) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal kiln (not lined) - not less than 1 m. decreases to 0.7 m.

Thus, compliance with fire-prevention distances is more possible in large saunas, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the established safety distances must be reduced by means of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the oven

Shields are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Screens are metal and brick. Typically used for metal ovens.

Method # 1 - metal screens

The most common shields are factory made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one side or the other of the oven, side or front (front) screens can be purchased. Many metal ovens are initially manufactured with protective shields in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens allow reducing the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100 ° C and, accordingly, reducing the fire-safe distance to 50 cm.The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installation of protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily bolted to the floor.

Method # 2 - brick screens

The brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of the metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a brickwork casing. In another case, the brick screen is a wall separating the oven and the flammable surface.

For laying the protective screen, solid fireclay bricks are used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (120 mm thick). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be a quarter brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the thermal insulation properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

In the lower part of the shield, small holes are left (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry is carried out all the way to the ceiling.

The brick screen is installed not close to the walls of the stove, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen can reduce the distance from the stove to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm. (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible wall cladding

Walls adjacent to the hot oven walls are susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent them from overheating, special sheathing is used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option # 1 - reflective sheathing

Claddings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a sheet of stainless steel. Some people use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can emit harmful substances. It is better not to risk it and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

To be effective, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirrored surface helps to reflect heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents it from heating. In addition, a sheet of stainless steel, directing infrared rays back to the steam room, turns hard radiation into a softer one, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation under a stainless steel, you can fix:

Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Has increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
Asbestos cardboard - sheet refractory heat insulator. Possesses high strength and durability, protects combustible surfaces from ignition.
Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates) specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, easily combustible surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of cladding using a metal sheet is such a "pie": wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the cladding to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the cladding is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, minerite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is closed with stainless steel.

Option # 2 - cladding with cladding

Of course, the protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects the wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finishes. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the fireproof cladding is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tiles are laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

Terracotta tiles - made of baked clay. Differs in strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
Clinker tiles are also made of clay, they look like facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, from white to black, including green and blue tones that are unusual for clay.
Tiles are a kind of ceramic tiles. Usually it has an embossing on the front surface in the form of a pattern or ornament.
Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. The range of colors includes all natural shades, from white to black.
Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fastening refractory tiles directly to walls will not have a thermal insulation effect. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tiles. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the stove.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in cladding:

Refractory gypsum board (GKLO) - gypsum board supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists heat stress without structural deformation.
Minerite is a fiber-cement board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
Glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) is a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and glass fabric. It has heat and sound insulating properties, does not deteriorate under the influence of water and temperature extremes.

The protective sheathing with the mandatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low heat absorption coefficient, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of cladding makes it possible to disguise the protective "cake" and maintain the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

Protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove: the device of protective sheathing and screens

We figure out how to protect the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove. Arrangement of protective sheathing and special screens. Fire safety technical rules.

How to decorate the stove in the bath

In recent years, metal stoves have gained great popularity among the owners of home baths. The reason for this was the ease and speed of installation, affordable pricing policy. However, they have a number of disadvantages, ranging from unpresentable appearance and ending with the likelihood of a fire. Furnace decoration in the bath is performed to reduce negative factors.

During operation, the temperature of the metal furnace in the bath reaches about 400 0. A metal heated to such a temperature can cause a fire in nearby wooden structures... For fire safety purposes, there are permissible distances from the metal source of heating to the wall established by SNiP. In the absence of protective screens, the distance should be at least 1 meter.

In large rooms, it is not difficult to maintain such a distance. But if the question concerns a small home bath, every centimeter of space is important.

To reduce the permissible distance, a number of measures are carried out:

install protective screens around the oven itself;
sheathe sections of the walls located in the immediate vicinity of the ignition source.

Metal screens

Installation of steel sheets allows you to reduce the fire hazard distance. From a wooden surface to a steel screen, it is enough to withstand 50 cm.

Protective screens made of metal can be either factory-made or self-welded. During installation, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap between the heating part of the furnace and the metal screen. The presence of the ventilation duct contributes to the heating of the casing to 100 0. Factory screens are equipped with legs and fasteners, using them, it will not be difficult to install the sheets.

Brick screens

There are two options for installing a brick screen:

a brick partition is erected only between the wooden wall of the bath and the metal stove;
the oven is laid with brick walls on all sides.

It is enough to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the wooden wall and the brick screen.

Wall cladding with heat-reflecting screens

Reflective sheathing is a heat-insulating material covered by a stainless steel sheet on top. This option allows you to reduce the distance from the protective coating to the working surface of the oven to 38 cm.

As a protective layer that does not allow the wood surface to catch fire, use non-combustible, durable materials with low thermal conductivity:

basalt wool(basalt canvas, basalt slabs, basalt cardboard), sometimes it is called stone wool. Made from rock (basalt), it is an environmentally friendly material. Does not emit harmful compounds when heated, withstands temperatures up to 600 0, without collapsing and without losing its properties. Possesses good water repellency, absolutely does not absorb moisture and does not corrode adjacent materials;
minerite slabs- the main component in them is cement. They are able to withstand a temperature of 600 0, however, the operating temperature at which the properties do not change is 150 0. Well absorbs and releases moisture. Minerite is harmless to the respiratory tract when heated;

asbestos boards or asbestos board... It is considered by some to be a carcinogenic material that is harmful to health, but this has not been scientifically proven. Asbestos dust can be harmful to the body if inhaled. Asbestos closed on top with a metal sheet has established itself as a good thermal insulation material;
expanded vermeculite slabs do not contain asbestos, are made of mountain mica. They have a low specific weight, high mechanical strength. Such slabs can be applied with a layer of plaster and veneered. ceramic tiles.

The top of the insulating layer is covered with a sheet of stainless steel. In some cases, galvanized iron is used, but it is "transparent" to infrared rays. The polished steel surface is capable of reflecting heat rays, directing them back into the bathhouse.

They mount metal sheets on ceramic mounts that are not exposed to strong heat. For free circulation of air currents, preventing heating of the wooden wall, it is necessary to provide a ventilation gap. For this, a ventilation gap is provided between the insulating layer and the wall. The screen is mounted, leaving a distance above the floor and above the ceiling.

Cladding followed by cladding

Provide aesthetically presentable view baths can be decorated by decorating the heat-insulating layer with refractory tiles, the installation of which must be carried out on heat-resistant glue.

To ensure high thermal insulation protection of the wooden surface from the heat of the furnace, refractory materials are mounted on it, which can be used as:

glass magnetic sheets resistant to high temperatures and high humidity environment... They are characterized by high elasticity and mechanical strength. When heated, they do not emit toxic substances;
expanded vermiculite sheets;
minerite slabs.

Facing types: tiles

The following types of tiles have proven themselves well for facing heat-insulating areas:

Terracotta tiles... Eco-friendly unglazed tiles made of colored clay without mechanical impurities by long-term firing in ovens. Possesses increased heat resistance, does not emit when heated harmful substances and specific odors. During operation, it does not lose its original color. Has a color palette from gray to beige. Has textured options for wood and stone. Able to keep warm for a long time.
Clinker tiles made from shale clay. It is fired at a temperature of about 1200 0 in one cycle. Does not harm health during heating. Such tiles are durable, have increased resistance to abrasion and discoloration. The available colors range from black to white.

Porcelain stoneware tiles... Artificial finishing material, consisting of clay, quartz sand and kaolin. It withstands a humid environment and high temperatures well, does not deteriorate under "thermal shock". It has a long service life. Manufacturers produce glazed, matte, polished, structured porcelain stoneware under leather, wood, stone.
Soapstone tiles... Natural material of mountainous origin, often gray, but interspersed with brown, cherry, yellow and green shades. Withstands repeated heating and high humidity, well accumulates and gives off heat.

Construction of a brick casing around a metal plate

The brick casing for shielding the furnace is heavy, and a prerequisite for its installation is the presence of a foundation.

Foundation device

If the brickwork around the metal stove is made in the already built bathhouse, the floor covering will have to be dismantled.

The size of the concrete base is calculated by adding the size of the brickwork 20 cm + ventilation gap 10 cm + horizontal dimensions of the metal stove.

Installation is started by picking out a layer of the earth. The depth depends on the degree of freezing of the soil and is about 60 cm.

In case of close occurrence groundwater on the bottom and on the sides of the pit, geotextiles or roofing material are laid, well smeared with bituminous mastic.

A sand cushion is installed on the base of the resulting pit. The sand is laid wet and tamped thoroughly. A layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured on top and compacted.

Another layer of sand 15 cm thick is poured.

collect a reinforcing lattice from reinforcement or metal rods, with a mesh size of 10 * 10;
poured with concrete mortar, not reaching the edges of the pit by 10 cm;
after that, the concrete needs time to "mature" within three weeks;
several layers of roofing material are laid on top of the concrete base and a heat-resistant slab is installed;
a continuous row of bricks is laid, which should not protrude beyond the boundaries of the refractory sheet, voids in the masonry are also unacceptable. The excess solution is immediately removed;
the second row is laid in the same way as the first, but with an offset of the seams;
compliance with the horizontal plane is considered a prerequisite.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

The ready-made solution can be purchased at the store or use a sand-clay mixture. To determine the best ratio of sand and clay, a small batch is made from which a cylinder or bar is formed. Pay attention to possible appearance cracks, the absence of which is an indicator of quality.

Clay used for masonry is preferably used from deep layers, without earth and mechanical impurities.

To give the clay the required consistency and plasticity, it is kept in water for several days, after which it is rubbed through a sieve to remove debris.

A ratio of clay to sand 1: 1 is considered good, liquid is added to it in small portions.

A high-quality mixture does not stick to the trowel and does not drip from it. When carrying a trowel over the solution, the left trace should not blur or have a torn structure.

To improve the quality of the masonry, rock salt is added at the rate of 0.1 kg per bucket of ready-made mortar. It is also good to add cement and chamotte powder.

Furnace lining technological process

The laying of the protective casing around the metal plate is carried out:

red solid brick, which has a high degree of heat resistance and a long operational period;
fireclay brick, which has the same characteristics, but a higher cost;

ceramic refractory bricks: all the positive properties of solid bricks are inherent in it, but at the same time it has a more aesthetic appearance and can be used as facing.

In some cases, laying is carried out hollow brick, but it must be borne in mind that it has the worst heat retention characteristics.

It is advisable to soak the brick before starting work. Dry brick is able to quickly absorb the liquid fraction through the capillaries and does not allow the binder part of the solution to penetrate inside to increase the adhesion of the masonry. In the summer, this method is not difficult.

If the construction process takes place in the autumn-spring period, it is quite problematic to dry the wet brick in the finished product in cold, humid weather. To heat for drying means to strike a blow to the strength even before the oven starts operating: uneven heating will destroy the seams. It is also impossible to leave the oven undried for the winter, the cold will tear the masonry under the influence of negative temperatures. In this case, a more liquid solution is made and the surface of the brick is slightly moistened.

With insufficient construction experience, for the convenience of maintaining a horizontal plane, a cord or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the masonry. The disadvantage of this method is the need to raise the line with each row.

You can pay 30-50% less for light, depending on what kind of electrical appliances you use.

Furnishing the stove in the bath - how and with what material to finish the stove in the bath

Furnishing the stove in the bath in this article, you will learn about the finishing of the stove: the material for covering the stove depends not only on the preferences of the owner of the bath, but also on some other factors.

When is protection needed at all?

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick kiln (quarter-brick masonry) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal kiln (not lined) - not less than 1 m. decreases to 0.7 m.

Protective screens near (around) the oven

Shields are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Screens are metal and brick. Typically used for metal ovens.

Method # 1 - metal screens

Installation of protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily bolted to the floor.

Method # 2 - brick screens

In the lower part of the shield, small holes are left (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry is carried out all the way to the ceiling.

Protective non-combustible wall cladding

Option # 1 - reflective sheathing

As thermal insulation under a stainless steel, you can fix:

Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Has increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
Asbestos cardboard - sheet refractory heat insulator. Possesses high strength and durability, protects combustible surfaces from ignition.
Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates) specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, easily combustible surfaces in baths and saunas.

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the cladding to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the insulation and the wall.

Option # 2 - cladding with cladding

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

Terracotta tiles - made of baked clay. Differs in strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
Clinker tiles are also made of clay, they look like facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, from white to black, including green and blue tones that are unusual for clay.
Tiles are a kind of ceramic tiles. Usually it has an embossing on the front surface in the form of a pattern or ornament.
Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. The range of colors includes all natural shades, from white to black.
Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in cladding:

Refractory gypsum board (GKLO) - gypsum board supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists heat stress without structural deformation.
Minerite is a fiber-cement board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
Glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) is a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and glass fabric. It has heat and sound insulating properties, does not deteriorate under the influence of water and temperature extremes.

During melting or using the bath, the surface of the stove gets very hot, the temperature can reach 400 degrees and above. In this case, the stove itself will be a source of strong radiation of infrared rays, which quickly spread over the entire area of the bath and heat all its walls, but especially those that are located near the stove.

Due to the very high temperature, the walls of the baths made of wood can begin to char, which will further lead to their fire. To insulate wooden walls and ceilings from fire, fire retardants or chemical fire protection agents are often used. Shielding using non-combustible materials is recognized as the most effective ways to protect the walls of a bathhouse, including wooden ones, from heat.

When the walls of the bath are required to be protected from fire

The distance between the stove and the adjacent wall must be safe, that is, it must be sufficient so that the infrared rays affect the surface less strongly, and there is no fire in the bath.

SNiP III-G.11-62. Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for the production and acceptance of works. Download file

SNiP III-G.11-62

The safe distance between the sauna stove and the walls is determined on the basis of fire safety standards SNiP III-G.11-62 for the operation of stoves installed in rooms with walls or ceilings prone to burning:

SNiP 2.04.05-91. Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning. Download file

SNiP 2.04.05-91

Based on SNIP 2.04.05-91, a safe distance from the top of the stove to the ceiling is established:

with a ceiling protected by a steel sheet 10 mm thick, laid on asbestos cardboard or on plaster laid on a steel mesh and a furnace ceiling of 3 rows of bricks - not less than 250 mm,
with a protected ceiling and a heat-insulated ceiling of the top of a metal furnace, not less than 800 mm,
with an unprotected ceiling and a stove with an overlap of 2 rows of bricks - not less than 1 m.
with an unprotected ceiling and non-insulated ceiling - not less than 1.2 m.

It is clear that a safe distance of 1 m between the stove and the wall can only be ensured in saunas with a large area. In private baths with a small area, every centimeter of usable area is saved, so the stoves are placed at a short distance from the walls, and a brick screen is built to protect against heat, or sheets of metal are used as cladding, as well as other non-combustible materials that significantly reduce the permissible safe distance.

Protective screens

Bath walls are usually protected from thermal infrared radiation by protective screens. As such screens, brickwork or metal shields, coupled with insulating materials, are used. The protection is installed on the side surfaces of the sauna stoves and / or on adjacent surfaces.

Protective screen made of metal

Most often, in private baths, to protect the interior partitions from high temperatures and fires, an ordinary fence is mounted, made of metal sheets, which are installed near the stove (a five-centimeter gap is left between the surfaces of the casing and the stove). Metal screens are mainly side or frontal. A protective shield made of any metal significantly reduces the thermal effect of the furnace on the wall surface. Thanks to this metal protection, the temperature at the wall is reduced, which significantly reduces the safety distance.

Specifications screens Teplodar and installation diagram

Metal screens can be installed on legs using anchor bolts to secure the structure to the floor. Commercially available metal reflective screens are already equipped with mounting frames for vertical fixing.

Red kiln brick protective shield

Brick fences often cover the side surfaces of the stove, making the outer skin like a casing. This separates the combustible surfaces and the red-hot heater.

From time immemorial, a tradition has developed to build stoves from brick or stone. Such a structure heated up for a long time, but at the same time it radiated soft heat, and subsequently cooled down for a long time. Modern metal ovens heat up quickly, emit hard infrared radiation, and hot oven walls burn oxygen in the bath. In addition, a metal stove is more fire hazardous. In view of these aspects, it can be concluded that it is advisable to combine masonry or brickwork with steel structures.

A solid fireclay brick is well suited for the construction of a protective casing. A mixture of cement or mixed with refractory clay will serve as a good bond for it. The masonry-screen made of fireclay bricks, according to the value of the safe distance, is made about 12 cm thick (0.5 bricks) or 6.5 cm (0.25, respectively). However, expensive chamotte brick is very rarely used in private baths to protect wooden walls, most often the red stove is preferred.

Before finishing (facing) the metal stove with red stove bricks, the base is first built.

It is imperative to take into account: if the stove is located near the load-bearing wall, then there must be a distance of at least 5 cm between the stove foundation and the building foundation.To ensure that these two foundations are not connected to each other, and the heat from the steam room is not lost, insulating material is laid between them ...

The surface of the foundation should be 15-20 cm below the level of the finished floor of the bath. After installing the foundation (it needs to be allowed to dry for 30 days), a moisture-insulating material is laid on it in 2 layers - roofing felt or roofing material. Then, a brick is placed on the clay-cement mortar in 2 rows, shifting the bricks together in such a way that the seams of the masonry are covered with a brick lying on top.

This completes the work on the arrangement of the base.

On top of the foundation, a heat-proof base should be made, consisting of:

a sheet of metal fixed on top of a layer of heat-insulating material;
two rows of bricks laid on a wooden floor;
heat-resistant ceramic tiles.

Before you impose a brick on the iron stove, you need to prepare the necessary mortar for masonry. The best option for brickwork around a metal kiln would be a simple clay mortar (raw materials should be mined at a depth of more than two meters) with sand. The kneading process is not complicated. The clay is first soaked, then, already soaked, it is carefully rubbed through a sieve. The sand is sieved and mixed with soaked clay. The viscosity and plasticity of the mortar should be such that it does not squeeze out of the seams during laying. You can add 5-10% cement to the solution for strength.

The foundation of the protective screen can be made in a quarter of a brick, making sure to leave small holes in its bottom and in the middle part - special windows that create air circulation between the brick screen and the installed stove (sometimes they are equipped with fire doors). In this case, the bath will heat up very quickly.

It is best to cover the stove with half a brick. If the screen is made into a brick, then it will take a very long time to warm up.

Attention! It is very important to take into account the requirement for fire safety - the distance between the walls of the metal furnace and the brickwork should be 3 - 10 cm.In order for the brick screen to be more durable, a reinforcing mesh must be laid through a row, or perhaps in each row. The verticality of the corners must be checked with a plumb line, and the laying of the rows with a building level should be checked for horizontalness.

You can lay out a brick screen up to the ceiling. The main condition is that its height should be more height stove by at least 20 cm.

For more reliable protection of wooden walls from high temperatures, a permissible distance between the wall and the constructed brick screen has been established. It should be less than 15 cm, but more than 5 cm, while the distance from the stove to any of the walls can be 20 - 40 cm.

Non-combustible sheathing

To protect the walls from a hot stove, sheathing is often used, consisting of various special thermal insulation materials.

Reflective stainless sheathing

Special non-combustible thermal insulation or protective sheathing is made of stainless steel sheets that perfectly protect the wooden surface of the walls in private baths from fires. For the construction of such a simple screen, first a heat-insulating material is attached to the wall, and only then a stainless steel sheet is attached from above.

To increase the efficiency of the cladding, it is advisable to polish the stainless steel sheet well to mirror shine... The mirrored surface of the stainless steel significantly improves the reflection of heat rays emanating from the stove, preventing heating of the wooden walls. In addition, by redirecting hard infrared rays back, the mirrored stainless metal will turn them soft and safe for human perception.

Metal screens for a bath are easy to make with your own hands. The main thing is not to forget about using a heat insulator between the wall and the sheet of metal (minerite or asbestos cardboard will do)

Sheathing with cladding

The stainless steel mirror cladding looks beautiful and perfectly protects the walls from fire, however, in some cases it may not be appropriate in the bath and over time the mirror surface will become dull, will not be able to reflect the rays of high quality and will not look as beautiful as it originally did. To solve the design problem in a bathhouse for many years, heat-resistant cladding will help, for laying which heat-resistant glue is used on brick cladding.

For wall cladding located next to the stove, you can use the following heat-resistant materials:

Attention! Any tile that is used for wall cladding will not be able to provide complete thermal insulation, it is only one of the components in the protective structure, consisting of a refractory material and a small (2-3 cm) ventilation gap between this refractory material and the wall.

As a refractory material, you can also use a fire-resistant gypsum board, or fiberglass, which will not deform under the influence of heat, from a non-combustible fiber cement board - minerite or from a special tile material - a glass-magnesium sheet.

Of course, the best option for cladding wooden walls is brick cladding. With such protection of the walls from high temperatures, the stove can be placed almost close to the wall. However, it is not always possible to use new smooth bricks for laying and lay beautiful masonry around the stove. Sometimes a previously used brick is chosen for the protective screen in order to further refine it with a beautiful material.

Facing a brick screen - step by step instructions

You can refine and make the appearance of any brickwork more aesthetic with the help of a refractory and durable natural material.

Terracotta tiles, also called terracotta for short, are very heat resistant ceramic product from kaolin clay, fired at a temperature of about 1000 degrees. This wonderful material is absolutely non-flammable, it does not change its properties even from high (up to 1300 degrees) and low (up to -25 degrees) temperatures, does not change its beautiful appearance from the action of water or sunlight.

To finish the brick protective fence, you will need Terracotta heat-resistant materials: glue, paste, as well as finishing grout, which will be used to fill the joints.

You will also need a sheet of drywall (choose GKL 9.5 mm) for the spacers of the plates, which must first be cut into small squares.

Tools. We stock up on the following accessories:

In advance, you need to dilute in a bucket with water and knead with a mixer a convenient and very reliable in terms of fire safety reinforced adhesive mixture "Terracotta".

Initially, the bricks for the screen are laid around the stove in a classic dressing, carefully removing excess mortar.

Attention! After finishing the laying of the rough wall, it is imperative to wait 24 hours for the brickwork to dry and gain initial strength.

Terracotta flagstone "Classic" is an amazing stone in its unique beauty. He looks very rich and massive.

It can be easily sawn with a diamond wheel or split with a hammer and then, spread on it with a thick layer of Terracotta mastic, stick it on the brickwork. Terracotta flagstones are heavier than terracotta tiles, but significantly lighter than natural stone.

When facing with flagstone, cut plasterboard squares are used as an inter-tile distance and a fixer for tile movement. The rough chipped edge of the limestone will not allow for a 10mm gap everywhere, and this will further give the stone veneer a natural feel.

Having brought the process of stylizing a wall like a wild stone to perfection, you can proceed to tiling. It is necessary to lay rectangular terracotta tiles on the brick, starting with the masonry of the corner elements, thanks to which the decorative cladding will look like the classic stove masonry.

Corner elements must be glued from bottom to top, while the horizontal lines of the corners must be checked only in level.

Attention! For gluing and setting of Terracotta mastic it is necessary that at least 10 hours or more have passed.

After the mastic dries, you need to remove the squares inserted as fixers from the drywall and proceed first to filling, and then to jointing the joints between the plates.

This work will require a heat-resistant wide-joint grout, which is a unique white compound designed to fill the joints between slabs of different decorative surfaces that may be strongly exposed to elevated temperatures.

The grout must be poured with water and stirred with a mixer to obtain a homogeneous solution, similar in consistency to thick sour cream.

Attention! The time to use the grout solution is about 1 hour.

It is necessary to fill the tile joints with a construction gun, the nozzle of which must be cut obliquely so that an oblong hole is formed.

The pistol tube is filled with the prepared grout solution using a narrow spatula.

Then, carefully inserting the nozzle, it follows, smoothly and with low intensity, moving the construction gun along the length of the joints, squeeze out the grout and fill the joints so that the level of the filled grout is level with the level of the tile. It is possible to fill the joints between the slabs vertically or horizontally.

Attention! Special grout for joints should not get on the front surface of the finish. If it happened that the mixture still got on the decorative facing, then you should not immediately remove the composition, but you must wait at least 2 hours until it hardens a little and then you can easily remove the contaminating fragment. The dried mixture must not be removed tangentially from the boards or smeared.

After completing all the work on filling the joints, the grout will "mature", acquiring molded pliability or slight crumbling after 2 hours. After this time, you can confidently proceed to the final part - the process of distributing the hardened grout and its alignment in the tile joints - decorative jointing, the purpose of which is to give the decorated surface an attractive look.

To begin with, from the seams, using a simple flat screwdriver, transversely deepened into the seam, it is necessary to remove the excess amount of grout slowly maintaining a constant depth. To remove excess grout mass, you can also use a small diameter metal ring, with which you can evenly remove the grout like shavings.

The remaining grout in the joint can be gently spread by light pressure with a gloved finger, giving the grout the appearance of a flat surface without indentations or roughness.

The work on lining the thermal shield of the brick walls has been completed.

The first heating of the stove in the bath can be started only 24 hours after all the necessary work has been done with grouting between the tiles.

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 1

Video - Heat-resistant screens for sauna stoves. Part 2

Video - Installing a bath stove with a protective screen

Video - Protecting the walls of the bath with terracotta tiles

Video - Protecting wooden walls of a bath from heat

How to protect the walls of a bath from the heat of the stove - technologies and materials

When planning the construction of a bath, it is important to remember to create safety inside the premises. First of all, this concerns fire safety. By melting a bath, the stove can be heated up to 300-400 ° C, which is significantly higher than the combustion temperature of wood, from which a bath is most often built.

All the heat from the oven is released into the room, but the main heat is absorbed by the nearby walls, which leads to their charring and fire. It is extremely important to avoid such consequences, therefore in this article we will tell you in detail how to isolate the stove in the bath from the wall. See also: "Sauna stoves Heat - types and design features".

Do you need protection in your bath

Protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove is not always required. For example, you can provide a distance between the wall and the stove to achieve fire safety without additional protection. The fact is that at some distance the infrared rays emitted by the oven begin to scatter, which significantly reduces their impact on the nearest surfaces.

The distance from the stove to the wall in the bath varies depending on the type of stove:

0.32 m and more - the distance for a stone oven with a quarter brick masonry;
0.7 m and more - the required distance between the wall and the metal furnace lined with chamotte or brick from the inside;
1 m or more is a safe distance for a metal unlined furnace.

At first glance, it seems that creating such a distance is much easier than installing additional protection, but this is fundamentally wrong. Maintaining a safe distance is advisable only in large steam rooms, but in small private baths, the stove, including indents, will occupy most of the room, so it will be much easier to use insulation.

Protective screens

Speaking about fire safety in the bath, first of all, it is worth highlighting the protective screens, which are used to isolate the stove in the bath from the walls.

Protective screens are special panels made of non-combustible materials (metal or brick) that significantly reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Most often, this method of insulation is used for metal furnaces. See also: "How to make a screen for a sauna stove - options and solutions from an expert."

On the construction market, the most common metal protective screens made of steel or cast iron. Many manufacturers of iron furnaces provide for thermal insulation of their products, providing them with special casings.

It is quite simple to choose protective screens, because depending on the insulated side of the oven, you can purchase a front or side panel. Installation of such screens will also not cause difficulties, because the manufacturer provides special legs that are easy to attach to the floor.

Next, it's worth talking about the installation rules. The panels themselves are installed at a distance of 1-5 cm from the stove, however, a distance is also required to the adjacent wall. The protective screens reduce the radiated temperature to 80-100 ° C, which allows them to be installed 50 cm from a parallel wall.

Brick screens

The fencing of the stove in the steam room can also be made of bricks. A brick screen can be installed on all sides of the metal oven, forming a protective sheathing. Also, such a screen can be installed only between the flammable surface and the oven, representing a protective wall.

Having decided to lay such protection, use solid fireclay bricks, for which you can use clay or cement mortar. Usually, masonry in half a brick (120 mm) is used, however, due to a lack of material, a masonry of a quarter brick (60 mm) is suitable. When using the last installation method, remember that the thermal insulation properties of such a screen are reduced, so the distance to the wall should be increased.

Such finishing of the iron stove in the bath is also carried out in compliance with some rules:

In the lower part of the shield, it is necessary to provide special openings that will ensure air convection between the furnace wall and the brick;
The height of the brick wall should exceed the height of the furnace by 20 cm, but often it is led to the very ceiling;
Observe the distance between the oven and brick screens of 5-15 cm;
There should also be a distance of 5-15 cm between the flammable surface, for example, a wall and a brick protection.

Non-combustible wall cladding

The second option for protecting walls from fire is special cladding, which are made of non-combustible materials. The working element of this protection, reflecting IR rays hazardous to combustible surfaces, is a reflective material, for example, stainless steel.

There are also options for decorative finishes that preserve the aesthetic purity of your bath. One of the advantages of this method is that protecting the walls in the bath from the stove will not only avoid fires, but also keep the heat inside the room. See also: "Finishing the stove in the bath - the choice of material for decorative cladding."

Reflective wall cladding

You can assemble this version of the protective sheathing yourself. To do this, you need a non-combustible thermal insulation material, which will be discussed in more detail below, as well as a stainless steel sheet.

Stainless steel can be replaced with a cheaper option - galvanized, however, when heated, it can emit harmful substances, so we strongly do not recommend using it. Before starting work, fix the insulation on the wall, then cover it with a metal sheet.

To make such thermal insulation for the sauna stove as productive as possible, polish the metal surface. This will allow better reflection of the infrared rays back into the steam room, moreover, the reflected rays will be better perceived by a person.

You can use the following materials as thermal insulation:

Basalt wool absolutely safe for a bath. It retains heat well, in addition, it is highly hygroscopic and does not burn at all;
Basalt cardboard- a good option for a bath. It is a thin sheet of basalt fiber that retains heat well and does not burn;
Asbestos cardboard- strong and durable heat insulator, which is also suitable for a bath;
Minerite for a bath Is also great stuff. Non-combustible plates are specially made for shielding hot surfaces in baths and saunas;

Before sheathe the wall near the stove in the bath, familiarize yourself with the correct technology for its construction. The most important thing is the order of installation and the observance of the clearances.

The ideal design has the following structure:

Wall;
Ventilation gap of 2-3 cm;
Insulation 1-2 cm;
Stainless steel sheet.

Remember that the total distance from the wall to the stove should be more than 38 cm. For fixing, use ceramic bushings to help form ventilation gaps. If the distance between the wall and the stove is minimal, then two layers of minerite slabs must be used, between which a gap must also be left.

Sheathing with cladding

This option is practically no different from the previous one, however, if you do not know how to decorate the wall behind the stove in the steam room so as to preserve the beauty of the room while creating a safe environment, then this option is undoubtedly for you. Protect the walls with heat-resistant decorative materials laid over thermal insulation.

The decoration around the stove in the bath can be done with the following materials:

Clinker tiles made of baked clay. It is characterized by high strength, heat resistance and durability. One of the advantages of this option is also a rich color palette, which includes not only black and white tones, but also blue or green colors;
Terracotta tiles also made of clay, however, it is inferior to the previous version in terms of density and the number of possible color solutions;
Talcochlorite is a good option for a cladding for a bath, made of rocks of green and grayish shades. Possesses good heat resistance and strength;
Tiles- ordinary ceramic tiles, characterized by good heat resistance and a pattern on their surface;
Porcelain stoneware- heat-resistant tiles imitating natural stone or wood.

The tile will not dissipate heat, protecting the walls from fire, so it cannot be attached directly to the wall. We recommend using the following construction:

Wall;
Ventilation gap;
Refractory material;
Tile (the distance from the tile to the stove must be at least 15 cm).

Such a "pie" will allow you to create reliable protection walls from the heat, preserving the beauty of the room.

One of the following options can be used as a refractory material:

Fireproof drywall- made of the same materials as conventional drywall, but with the use of fiberglass;
Minerite slabs for a bath - absolutely not exposed to moisture and heat.
Glass-magnesium sheet- slabs made of fiberglass and magnesia binder. It is excellent at keeping back heat, moisture and noise.

This option will perfectly protect your bath from the possibility of fire, as well as insulate the room, preserving its aesthetic component.

How to sheathe the inside of the wall in the bath

The question of how to sheathe the walls in the bath has its own specifics, which is associated with the peculiarities of the bath conditions. The bathhouse in terms of the interior differs significantly from any other premises, for example, from a residential building. Naturalness in design and performance are taking the lead.

The problem of how to sheathe the walls in the bathhouse inside is complicated by the fact that a number of materials are simply dangerous to use at elevated temperatures.

What is the specifics of bath wall cladding

The classic Russian bath has several rooms with different functions and conditions:

The dressing room is the first room of the bathhouse, into which the door from the street enters and from which the door to the steam room leaves. Thus, although the high temperature is not specially maintained in the dressing room, heated steam from the steam room enters here. Here, as a rule, is the entrance door of the furnace combustion chamber, where firewood is loaded. This element also contributes to an increase in temperature. At the same time, a door that periodically opens outward encourages the penetration of frosty air in winter. In other words, there is a characteristic condition in the dressing room: a sharp temperature drop.
The main room is the steam room, where the sauna stove is located. In the steam room during the bath procedure, a high concentration of superheated steam is maintained at temperatures up to 70 degrees and humidity over 60%. To this should be added hot water hitting the walls. A stove creates a particularly dangerous zone: the wall at the place of its installation and next to the passing chimney must have increased heat resistance and be fireproof. An important requirement for any materials used to equip a steam room is the absence of harmful emissions when exposed to high temperatures.

The washing room (if there is one in the bath) has an entrance to the steam room through which steam penetrates. A certain high humidity is provided by a container for washing or a shower, but the temperature usually does not exceed 30 degrees. The nook, where the shower cabin is equipped, stands somewhat apart - there is a direct effect of water here.
Finally, the rest room. Its design differs little from the improvement of ordinary premises. However, one should not forget about the possibility of steam penetration, contact of the wall covering with a damp body and wet clothes. In general, in this room, preference is already given to interior furnishings, which set you up for relaxation and rest.

Features of the arrangement of the walls of the steam room

The wall cladding in the steam room should include such mandatory elements as thermal insulation, steam protection and waterproofing. Mineral wool or expanded polystyrene is usually used as thermal insulation.

Waterproofing is made of polyethylene film or roofing material. For reliable protection of walls from the action of steam, polymer films coated with aluminum foil are used. Such layered protection protects the walls from operational factors and allows you to save heat and steam in the steam room.

The outer wall covering of the steam room is almost always made of wooden parts. The most popular is the lining, which is wooden planks. With their help, cladding and inner surface walls.

When you decide to sheathe the walls in a steam bath with clapboard, you must take into account the material from which it is made. Coniferous wood should not be used. The fact is that when exposed to superheated steam, resinous substances are released, which are not always useful for the human body. In addition, hot resin can burn you. It is better to use hardwood, which has less resin. Moreover, the resin of trees such as linden or birch even has a healing effect on the human body and is recommended for certain diseases.

When cladding walls in a steam room, linden and ash are considered the most optimal. In addition to the safety of secretions, they do not heat up to high temperatures and retain their color in bathing conditions for a long time. In addition to linden and ash, birch, aspen, and poplar are widely used.

Lining is recognized as the best facing material for steam rooms. The technology of its installation is quite simple. Waterproofing is applied to the wall surface and a lathing made of wooden slats 2x4 cm in size is mounted. The lathing posts are fixed in increments of 40-60 cm. Thermal insulation is applied between the battens of the lathing, and a vapor barrier with a layer of foil is applied on top. The lining strips are attached to the crate with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be insulated and buried in the wood to avoid burns when washing in the steam room.

The stove creates a special zone in the steam room. A temperature is created around it that is capable of igniting a combustible material. The question of how to sheathe the wall near the stove in the bathhouse has a specific solution. Directly in the zone of contact of the wall with the furnace, a heat-resistant protection is created from asbestos, expanded clay, refractory (chamotte) bricks. The distance from the stove to the wooden part of the wall should be at least 45-55 cm. Thermal insulation is usually provided by brickwork. In the area of the stove, the walls in the bath can be sheathed with flat slate, which will successfully replace asbestos fiber.

How to equip other premises

In the dressing room, there is no longer a high concentration of steam, and the temperature, as a rule, does not exceed 30 degrees. In this room, you can also think about saving money on wall cladding. The most attractive option is wood: lining, timber, board. However, cheaper conifers can be used in the dressing room, and their aroma in this room will create a high-quality moral preparation for the washing procedure. The danger zone in the dressing room is also created by the stove (the combustion chamber comes out here).

It is also necessary to fix material of increased heat resistance around the stove.

The washroom is also characterized by a low temperature. The use of coniferous wood is quite appropriate here: pine, spruce, larch. Given the slightly increased humidity, larch, which has a higher moisture resistance, looks preferable. In this room, the wall decoration with ceramic tiles also looks normal. This is especially true of the shower cubicle, where, even with a general wooden decoration it is better to revet the wall area with tiles.

The arrangement of the rest room is already a design issue. In this room, the main task is to create a cozy atmosphere. Even the issue of thermal insulation and waterproofing becomes unnecessary, and protection from steam is not necessary. Most often, in the Russian bath and the rest room is made out with wood, with the emphasis on cheaper conifers with a beautiful texture. The structure of the wood can be emphasized with a tinting impregnation. However, here it is quite possible to apply finishing with chipboard and drywall. In the design of the restroom, you can, in principle, use any material. It is only worth thinking carefully about the advisability of pasting wallpaper, since the likelihood of touching with a wet body is high.

Screens for a metal stove in a bath

Recently, metal stoves have been used more and more often for kindling a bath. During kindling, their surface heats up to 400 degrees Celsius, while it emits certain rays that can provoke the start of a fire. This is why it is so important to install screens between the metal oven and the wood paneling. For these purposes, non-combustible materials are selected. Which? Let's figure it out together.

Situations in which wall protection becomes vital

It is not always necessary to use protective screens around the oven. In situations where, at the stage of installing the furnace, the safe distance between the described object and the flammable surface was observed, it is not necessary to build additional protection. And that's why. The outbreak of a fire becomes possible if the infrared radiation of the wood paneling oven is reached. If the stoves are moved to the required distance from the walls, the infrared rays still reach them and scatter.

Determining a safe distance is easy. It is different for brick and metal stoves.

If a brick oven is laid in a quarter of a brick, the safe distance to the walls is considered to be 32 cm.
If a metal stove is installed in the bath, not lined inside, there must be at least a meter to the walls from it.
When a lined metal oven is installed in the bath, the safety distance is reduced to 70 cm.

Possible options for the safe installation of ovens and protective screens are shown in the photo.

Number 1 - shielded metal furnace.
Number 2 - wall made of combustible material (wood).
Number 3 - protection made of a metal sheet (asbestos-cement cardboard must be placed under it).
Number 4 is a galvanized steel roofing sheet installed up to the ceiling.
Number 5 - steel sheet, the thickness of which is at least 1 mm.
Number 6 - brickwork, the thickness of which is 55 mm (quarter brick) or 120 mm (half brick).

Note! It is possible to maintain a fire-prevention condition only in spacious baths, where the issue of saving space is not at all worth it. Only large spacious bath complexes can afford to operate stoves without protective screens; it is simply inappropriate to install metal stoves in family steam rooms at a distance of a meter from the nearest wall. Therefore, the use of protective screens becomes necessary.

Installation options for protective screens

What are protective screens in a bath? These are shields that allow you to insulate the surfaces of the walls on which the stoves are installed. There are two types of protective screens: metal and brick.

The easiest way is to install steel or cast iron sheets made at the factory on the walls in the bath. You can find side screens or front sheets on sale. They are installed around the heating object at a distance of 5 cm from the walls of its firebox. The photo shows what a metal protective screen looks like. The ready-made screen is installed quite simply, it has metal legs, they are attached to the floor with ordinary bolts.

Note! On sale you can find ready-made metal furnaces, the design of which assumes the presence of a protective casing. It helps to reduce the temperature of the oven walls to 80 degrees. This means that the fire-safe distance to the wooden wall cladding can be reduced to 50 cm.

Brick protective screens

The brick screen is similar in design to a fireplace; it covers both the side surfaces and the back of the metal stove. A similar brick casing is assembled exclusively from fireclay bricks; a clay mixture is used as a binding solution. The casing is assembled using half-brick masonry. Experts assure that the norms allow the assembly of a brick screen in a quarter of a brick, but in this case its thermal insulation properties will be reduced by exactly half. The next photo shows options for installing brick screens for a metal furnace.

Note! Openings for air convection are left in the lower part between the screen and the screen wall. The height of the brick casing should be 20 cm higher than the height of the metal stove. Allowed to bring the masonry to the ceiling. Sometimes the use of such a technique becomes justified from a design point of view.

It is impossible to install a brick screen close to the oven. There should be a distance of five to fifteen centimeters between them. The photo posted above shows a diagram of the assembly of such a screen.

Layer between the wall and the metal screen

Any metal tends to accumulate heat, it will absorb it, even from a safe distance. Therefore, it is advisable to install non-combustible sheathing between a wooden wall and a metal screen (if it is hung directly on the wall). These are heat-insulating materials such as basalt wool, basalt cardboard, asbestos cardboard, minerite.

If it is necessary to create such a protection, a multilayer cake is formed (the diagram of the device is shown in the following photo):

Wall (ventilation gap 3 cm, formed by using ceramic bushings).
Insulation.
Stainless steel sheet.

Note! When using such protection (according to SNiP 41-01-2003), the distance from the wooden wall to the stove should be at least 38 cm. It is this indicator that makes it possible to save space in the steam room.

The use of such protection options can significantly spoil the overall design of the premises of the bath complex. Therefore, many are trying to find an alternative to the described sandwich. And she is. Heat-reflecting protection can be built using heat-resistant tiles, which are attached to the surface of the walls of the bath with heat-resistant glue. Most often used as the main decorative material:

Terracotta tiles.
Clinker tiles.
Stove tiles.
Porcelain stoneware.
Talcochloride.

If such a material is attached directly to the wall, it will still be very hot, therefore, in the case of wall cladding with decorative tiles, it is also necessary to build a sandwich (wall - ventilation gap - refractory material - facing tile). The distance from the wall, protected in this way, to the stove can be equal to 15 cm. The following photo shows the installation diagram of the cladding with cladding.

As a refractory element in a sandwich, are used different materials... It can be drywall, GKLO brand. Fiberglass is present in its structure, so the material keeps heat well. The next material is minerite - fiber-cement board. It does not burn, does not absorb moisture, does not rot in a humid environment, does not decompose under the influence of temperature extremes. Another option is the use of plates made on the basis of fiberglass and magnesia binder. Such a plate has good heat and sound insulation properties. She is also not afraid of sudden changes in temperature.

The use of such cladding allows you to skillfully mask protective screens, make them part of the main decor, and decorate the steam room in the same style.

Generalization on the topic

When installing a ready-made metal furnace in a bath, the construction of protective screens is considered mandatory. They help to mitigate the heat radiation generated by the object to be heated. For the manufacture of screens, non-combustible materials are used, they cover the walls, near which the furnace is installed. Protected from heat and floor. If it is necessary to make a steam room in a uniform design style, heat-resistant sheathing is used.

Non-combustible materials for baths and saunas

In the bath, it is advisable to use materials that do not support combustion. They are usually called non-flammable. Another requirement: when heated (not burning, but heating), they should not emit harmful substances. This requirement is relevant, since in some rooms of the bath, the air temperature under the ceiling can be 100 ° C and higher. The stove and chimney are even more dangerous in this regard - here the temperatures are even more solid. Fire safety in these places is provided by non-combustible materials for the bath. Many were developed specifically for bath regimes, in their name, in one form or another, the words "bath" or "sauna" are present.

A little about terms

To avoid confusion in the properties and scope of materials, let's understand the terminology. There are non-flammable materials (NG), there are slightly flammable (G1) and simply combustible (G2) materials.

Non-combustible materials under the influence of sources of ignition (sparks, open fire, electric discharge, etc.) do not burn. At all. For example, reinforced concrete, stone, brick and some other building materials.

Weakly (difficult) combustible materials are incapable of full combustion, nevertheless, they burn. These are fiberglass, asphalt concrete, drywall, etc.

There are also refractory and heat-resistant materials. Refractories can withstand exposure to open fire for a long time. They are used in furnaces for lining the furnace. As applied to baths, these are fireclay bricks and fireclay masonry mortar. Heat-resistant ones are able to withstand high temperatures, but they may not be able to withstand an open fire.

For thermal insulation of walls, floors and ceilings

In order for the steam room to gain temperature faster, keep it longer, it is often insulated. Moreover, both the walls and the ceiling. As we said, temperatures are serious, so not all materials can be used. The most commonly used mineral wool. It is suitable for fire safety requirements, however, there are difficulties with humidity: it does not tolerate getting wet. To solve this problem, a layer of vapor barrier is attached on top, which prevents moisture from penetrating inside.

Mineral wool

But glass, slag and rocks can happen as the material for mineral wool. Moreover stone wool(from rocks) there are also thin and ultra-thin ones. They all have different characteristics... What interests us most is that they can withstand different thermal loads... Mineral wool specifications of different origins are given in the table (BTV - thin basalt fiber, STBF - ultrafine basalt fiber).

If you look only at temperature conditions, then any of the materials is suitable for thermal insulation of walls in a bath: the minimum sintering temperature is slag, but it is much higher than the limit to which the walls or ceiling can heat up - more than 250 ° C. But slag wool can only be used in dry rooms, as it is very hygroscopic. Therefore, it is better not to use it in the steam rooms of Russian baths and washing rooms (in the steam rooms of saunas you can).

If we talk about the convenience of work, then it is inconvenient to work with slag and glass wool: protective clothing, respirators, gloves are required. Mineral wool made using any technology does not prick and is the best choice. Specifically, for a steam room, it is best to use mineral wool with a foil surface such as Isover-Sauna, URSA and TechnoNIKOL. It combines the functions of insulation and vapor barrier (as in the case of a separate vapor barrier, the joints are glued with tape).

How to properly insulate the bath, read here.

Foam glass

If the safety and harmlessness of the tribute is very important to you, pay attention to the foam glass. It is absolutely harmless, has a high melting point (450 ° C), does not burn, but only melts. Available in several types:

The last two types of foam glass are well suited for floor insulation and attic floors. Where expanded clay was previously used, you can fill in crumbs or foam glass granules. They practically do not absorb water (water absorption 2-4%), have low thermal conductivity.

Aerated concrete blocks

Another non-combustible insulation for walls is low-density aerated concrete. Houses or baths are built from high-density blocks, and low-density material is used for insulation.

For insulation, blocks with a density of D400 and below are used. There are two main disadvantages. First, a greater thickness of the material is required (two times more than the same mineral wool). In the context of small baths, this can be critical. The second - it is problematic to attach something to the blocks - low peel strength. But the material is non-combustible, environmentally friendly, inexpensive, easy to assemble.

Non-combustible sheet materials

One of the problems in the bath is the protection of the combustible walls from the heat of the stove. Traditionally, they are protected with a brick wall, metal sheets, under which a layer of heat-insulating material (mineral wool cardboard) is laid. However, there are other types of non-combustible sheet materials:

Calcium silicate sheets SKL. They consist of quartz sand, lime and silica components. They do not burn, do not contain or emit any harmful substances. They are not afraid of water - when immersed in water for 100 days, they do not change their size and properties. They are not affected by mold and fungi, they do not have thermal deformation.
Glass magnesite sheet (plate) LSU. This type of material has excellent characteristics: does not burn, has low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture, does not deform in a humid environment, does not rot, and is environmentally friendly. It is stronger than SKL; tiles can be glued onto it without preliminary processing. This type of material is with a laminated surface, then called SKP - magnesia glass plates or panels. Installation - on profiles used for plasterboard.

Any of these materials can be used to protect combustible walls from high temperatures near the oven. From SKL, you can make a pass-through node, sheathe the overlap with plastics, and insulate the pipe. In general, use wherever high temperature protection is required.

Characteristics of non-combustible sheet material LSU and low-combustible gypsum board and gypsum board

Bath wires

One of the most important points during the construction of a bath - correctly done wiring. This is especially true for timber and frame structures. All electrical wiring must be done strictly according to the rules:

laid in non-combustible boxes, cable channels or corrugated hoses;
when connecting wires, the use of twists is not allowed, only through soldering, connectors or contact plates;
in the steam room, special heat-resistant lamps are used;
the wiring is done with flame retardant cable.

The greatest number of concerns in terms of wiring is caused by the steam room. The combination of humidity, temperature, lots of wood and electricity is very fire hazardous. Therefore, many people strive to do without an electrician in the steam room at all, and make lighting with the help of fiber-optic lamps. Yes, they cost a lot, but they are safe - in the steam room there is only fiberglass, which conducts light, and the entire electrical part is in "dry" rooms.

In principle, there is no such thing as non-flammable (heat-resistant, heat-resistant) cables. There are flame retardant and flame retardant cables. Flame retardants are used in fire extinguishing and fire detection systems. They must remain functional for some time even when exposed to direct fire. They are useless in the bath.

Flame-retardant cables do not burn themselves, but they stop working almost immediately after exposure to open fire or high temperatures - they melt. So they should be used when distributing electricity in baths. The table shows their names.

VVGng is used for wiring in the bath. The letters LS added further indicate a small amount of smoke during combustion, which is also good and it is advisable to take just such a wire. The diameter is chosen depending on the total power of the electrical equipment installed on the line. This is usually 2.5 mm2.

For chimney insulation

The chimney from the sauna stove must be insulated. There are two cases when this event is necessary. The first is to secure the combustible materials of the floor and roof as the pipe passes through them. This item is always carried out and is mandatory. There are special devices for the passage of the pipe through the ceiling and the roofing pie, which are called so - the PPU ceiling-throughput unit. This is a box of a special shape, made of non-combustible materials - metal (stainless steel, for example) or the magnesite sheet described above. Read about the rules for the passage of the pipe through the ceiling and roof here.

The second case is not found in everyone. This is the pipe insulation of the attic when it is necessary to turn it into a living room. The second option is to reduce the formation of condensation. For these purposes, mineral wool is usually used, which is wrapped twice around the pipe, securing it with wire.

It is possible to make everything more "civilized" by building a brick sarcophagus around the pipe (brick is also a non-combustible material). This is an option for converting an attic into a living space. The brick screen will "work" as a heating shield, spreading heat. At the same time, it protects against burns.

If the brick does not pass by weight (it may be too heavy), you can make a box of non-combustible sheet material - SKL or LSU.

The stove in the bath is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a stylish element of the interior. Therefore her external cladding special attention is paid. Reliable and practical materials are presented on the construction market, from which the stove is finished in the bath.

Right choice suitable material depends on the design idea, interior style and financial capabilities of the customer.

Features of the decorative facing of the stove

A high-quality finish of a sauna stove must meet the basic operational requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature drops, ensure the durability and safety of the surface. The lined stove should quickly heat up the bath rooms and create a comfortable microclimate inside.

The lining of the stove in the bath has a number of advantages, among which the following are distinguished:

fast and uniform heating of the premises;
accumulation of heat for a long time;
minimal risks of getting burned from a heated oven;
overdrying of air does not occur;
simplicity and availability of maintenance of the finished cladding;
attractive appearance of heating equipment;
resistance to mechanical damage and deformation.

Types of oven cladding

Besides the fact that the stove is the main heating equipment, it also serves an aesthetic function.

The lining of the sauna stove is carried out using practical and durable decorative materials:

ceramic tiles;
refractory bricks;
artificial and natural stone;
decorative plaster;
tiles;
frame made of metal plates.

All materials are distinguished by high performance characteristics and installation features.

Ceramic tiles - elegance and durability

The best material for cladding a sauna stove is ceramic tiles. It is characterized by ease of installation, affordable cost and durability.

For facing work, the following types of tiles are used:

Clinker room. It is made of red clay with the addition of a fireclay component, a melting agent and a dye.
Majolica. Material with a pressed base, covered with a protective glaze layer. This type of tile stands out for its rich colors, decorative patterns and ornaments.
Terracotta. Cladding material, which is similar in performance to majolica. Important differences are the porous structure and the absence of a protective glaze. Terracotta is characterized by durability, increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. This type of tile is made in a round shape.
Marble. Such material stands out for its increased wear resistance, practicality and availability of installation, it is devoid of almost all disadvantages.

Choosing this type of finish, the owners of stoves ask themselves an important question, what kind of tiles is better to cover heating equipment. Experts believe that the best option is a material with a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion and a dense structure - clinker tiles.

Refractory bricks: reliability and safety

Decorating a sauna stove with bricks is the simplest and most affordable option for owners who decide to do the cladding on their own.

The material has a number of advantages:

fast and safe heating;
accumulation and maintenance of heat for a long time;
resistance to increased moisture;
low cost and ease of installation.

The following types of stones are used for facing work:

granite;
marble;
coil;
porcelain stoneware;
talcochlorite;
jade.

Decorative stones are able to withstand an unlimited amount of heat, they accumulate well thermal energy and maintain the set temperature for a long time. In addition, this material is resistant to acids and alkalis.

Artificial elements are not inferior to natural stones in their performance characteristics. With their help, you can qualitatively overlay the stove in the steam room or the fireplace in the house.

The technology for laying stones is simple, therefore it does not require additional preparation. Non-standard shapes of elements can cause some difficulties in the fitting process, therefore, it is recommended to lay out the material on a flat base before installation. The stones are numbered and fixed on the surface of the oven with an adhesive.

Decorative plaster: simplicity and affordability

A simple option for cladding a Russian stove is to plaster surfaces. Over time, the decorative and protective properties of the plaster composition decrease, which will require frequent renewal of the cladding.

Important! Decorative plaster is only used for brick ovens and is not suitable for metal appliances.

Plastering a stove in a bath is simple, all work is performed in the following order:

the surface is cleaned of dust, debris and residues of the joint solution;
the seams are cleared 10 mm deep;
before the lining begins, the oven warms up;
a mesh of metal rods with fixation on a wire is installed on the surface;
the surface is moistened and the primary layer of the plaster mixture is applied;
after the plaster has hardened, a second layer is applied.

The thickness of each subsequent layer does not exceed 6 mm. The plaster mortar is applied with a trowel, leveled over the surface with a spatula. When plastering the surface, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of defects - air bubbles and sagging.

After solidification upper layer thoroughly cleaned until a flat surface is obtained.

Tiles: originality and practicality

The use of tiles is an old way of lining stove equipment for a bath. Tiles are tiles made of pottery plastic clay by firing in a kiln at a temperature of over 1000 degrees. On the back of the tile there are grommets designed to fix the material to any surface. Tiles are presented in several categories:

with a smooth surface;
majolica;
with glazed surface;
with a relief surface.

The tiles are distinguished by high performance characteristics - durability, practicality, strength and high heat transfer.

Tiling work should be entrusted to professionals who will perform well the installation of the material on the surface of the stoves.

Metal frame: accessibility and safety

The sauna stove can be clad with a metal frame, which is installed on top of the device and covered with protective shields. The steel frame provides reliable protection of the furnace portal and an optimal level of air heating in the room.

This cladding has the following advantages:

accumulates the released heat energy;
quickly heats the air and walls in the room;
differs in an affordable price and ease of installation.

A serious drawback of such a cladding is the likelihood of getting burns in direct contact with the surface. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing metal frames for stoves in baths in order to avoid possible injury.

Competent choice of decorative material for cladding and compliance technological process will ensure the correct operation of the sauna stove and the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

When is protection needed at all?

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick kiln (quarter-brick masonry) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal kiln (not lined) - not less than 1 m. decreases to 0.7 m.

Protective screens near (around) the oven

Shields are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Screens are metal and brick. Typically used for metal ovens.

Method # 1 - metal screens

Installation of protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily bolted to the floor.

Method # 2 - brick screens

In the lower part of the shield, small holes are left (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

The brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the oven. Sometimes the masonry is carried out all the way to the ceiling.

Protective non-combustible wall cladding

Option # 1 - reflective sheathing

As thermal insulation under a stainless steel, you can fix:

Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Has increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
Asbestos cardboard - sheet refractory heat insulator. Possesses high strength and durability, protects combustible surfaces from ignition.
Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates) specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, easily combustible surfaces in baths and saunas.

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the cladding to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the insulation and the wall.

Option # 2 - cladding with cladding

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

Terracotta tiles - made of baked clay. Differs in strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
Clinker tiles are also made of clay, they look like facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, from white to black, including green and blue tones that are unusual for clay.
Tiles are a kind of ceramic tiles. Usually it has an embossing on the front surface in the form of a pattern or ornament.
Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. The range of colors includes all natural shades, from white to black.
Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in cladding:

Refractory gypsum board (GKLO) - gypsum board supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists heat stress without structural deformation.
Minerite is a fiber-cement board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
Glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) is a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and glass fabric. It has heat and sound insulating properties, does not deteriorate under the influence of water and temperature extremes.

How to protect the walls of a bath from the heat of the stove - technologies and materials

Do you need protection in your bath

The distance from the stove to the wall in the bath varies depending on the type of stove:

0.32 m and more - the distance for a stone oven with a quarter brick masonry;
0.7 m and more - the required distance between the wall and the metal furnace lined with chamotte or brick from the inside;
1 m or more is a safe distance for a metal unlined furnace.

Protective screens

Speaking about fire safety in the bath, first of all, it is worth highlighting the protective screens, which are used to isolate the stove in the bath from the walls.

Metal protective screens

Brick screens

Such finishing of the iron stove in the bath is also carried out in compliance with some rules:

In the lower part of the shield, it is necessary to provide special openings that will ensure air convection between the furnace wall and the brick;
The height of the brick wall should exceed the height of the furnace by 20 cm, but often it is led to the very ceiling;
Observe the distance between the oven and brick screens of 5-15 cm;
There should also be a distance of 5-15 cm between the flammable surface, for example, a wall and a brick protection.

Non-combustible wall cladding

Reflective wall cladding

You can use the following materials as thermal insulation:

Basalt wool absolutely safe for a bath. It retains heat well, in addition, it is highly hygroscopic and does not burn at all;
Basalt cardboard- a good option for a bath. It is a thin sheet of basalt fiber that retains heat well and does not burn;
Asbestos cardboard- strong and durable heat insulator, which is also suitable for a bath;
Minerite for a bath Is also great stuff. Non-combustible plates are specially made for shielding hot surfaces in baths and saunas;

The ideal design has the following structure:

Wall;
Ventilation gap of 2-3 cm;
Insulation 1-2 cm;
Stainless steel sheet.

Sheathing with cladding

The decoration around the stove in the bath can be done with the following materials:

Clinker tiles made of baked clay. It is characterized by high strength, heat resistance and durability. One of the advantages of this option is also a rich color palette, which includes not only black and white tones, but also blue or green colors;
Terracotta tiles also made of clay, however, it is inferior to the previous version in terms of density and the number of possible color solutions;
Talcochlorite is a good option for a cladding for a bath, made of rocks of green and grayish shades. Possesses good heat resistance and strength;
Tiles- ordinary ceramic tiles, characterized by good heat resistance and a pattern on their surface;
Porcelain stoneware- heat-resistant tiles imitating natural stone or wood.

The tile will not dissipate heat, protecting the walls from fire, so it cannot be attached directly to the wall. We recommend using the following construction:

Wall;
Ventilation gap;
Refractory material;
Tile (the distance from the tile to the stove must be at least 15 cm).

Such a "cake" will allow you to create a reliable protection of the walls from heat, while preserving the beauty of the room.

One of the following options can be used as a refractory material:

Fireproof drywall- made of the same materials as conventional drywall, but with the use of fiberglass;
Minerite slabs for a bath - absolutely not exposed to moisture and heat.
Glass-magnesium sheet- slabs made of fiberglass and magnesia binder. It is excellent at keeping back heat, moisture and noise.

This option will perfectly protect your bath from the possibility of fire, as well as insulate the room, preserving its aesthetic component.

Building a bathhouse is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: complete the decoration, install the stove, arrange furniture, etc. High-quality finishing of the premises will make the bath procedures truly soulful and as pleasant as possible.

The bathhouse traditionally has several rooms with different indicators humidity and temperature, respectively, there are a number of restrictions for the use of some finishing materials.


Steam room. High temperature and humidity.	1. Wood. Decorating with a pair of lining made of wood is considered a classic. This material is best suited for wall, floor and ceiling decoration. It requires processing with special impregnations (it is impossible to cover wood in the steam room with varnish and paint not on a natural basis). 2. Stone. It is often used for wall cladding behind the furnace, at the same time being a fire cut. The solution is practical, durable, and quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical treatments. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform the steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric stoves, because direct contact with water and excessive moisture will have a detrimental effect on the material. 4. Brick, facing. Can be used for wall cladding behind the stove. Combines well with wood wall cladding. 5. Porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface for finishing the floor and / or wall behind the oven. Recommended as a top coat for insulated screeds. It is better not to put tiles on a wooden base in a steam room. 6. Mosaic. Traditional material for finishing hammams. It is not often used in Russian and Finnish baths.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for wall and ceiling cladding. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles of all types. 6. Plaster.
	1. Porcelain and anti-slip tiles, mosaics. Recommended in combination with an elastic anti-fungal moisture resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life in the shower is rather short. The best type of wood for finishing a shower room is larch. 4. Moisture resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Plasterboard can be used to protect the walls made of laminated veneer lumber from moisture. It is permissible to paint the gypsum fiber board with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. Not a bad option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Decorating wooden walls with plastic panels is permissible only after complete shrinkage. 6. Moisture resistant plaster. Finishing can hardly be called budgetary; additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring to life unique patterns by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum.
	Any available materials are suitable for decoration.	It is not recommended to trim the wall adjacent to the steam room with wood or plastic. Better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster.

Consider several ways to decorate the bath inside.

Wall and ceiling decoration with clapboard

An example of finishing the ceiling of a rest room with clapboard

Lining is used very often for wall decoration. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budgetary ones made of aspen or linden. Often, bath owners combine different types of wood, the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for covering the dressing room; in a steam room it is not the best choice.

The combination of lining from different breeds wood for walls and ceilings

The lining is fastened vertically or horizontally, and patterns are laid out from the rails, fixation is made to the battens of the sheathing. Foil vapor barrier must be used. But it is already difficult to surprise someone with such a finish.

If you have a sufficient amount of free time and material, a share of diligence and accuracy, pay attention to method of mounting the lining "herringbone".

Step 1. Calculation of the lining. Calculate separately the area of each wall in the steam room (it is necessary to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. It is possible not to deduct the area of the doorway, since it is necessary to provide for a stock of material, taking into account the scraps.

When buying lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of the finishing material. Divide the total area of your steam room by the area of one package and get the number of packages you need for finishing.

If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel without taking into account the width of the spike, and then calculate the number of panels for finishing. It is better to purchase material with a margin.

Important! Do not use knotted lining to decorate the steam room. The density of the knots is higher than the density of the solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.

Step 2. Preparing the lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store in a heated room. You can start finishing in two days.

During this period, prepare the workplace and tools:

jigsaw or circular saw;
level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
finishing nails, hammer;
wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
mallet.

Step 3. It is better to fasten the lining with the spike up. Based on this, we make the layout of the panels.

The herringbone can be angled up or down.

The photo shows a way of laying "herringbone" with a downward angle

Cutting must be done at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the lathing bars. For convenience, you can create a template and perform markup on it.

Step 4. We begin to fix the lining from the top. We fix the first panel with finishing studs through and through. If the bath is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the cladding, which will be covered with a plinth.

Insert the second panel with a thorn into the groove of the top panel, precisely align the ends of both panels. Fastening is carried out with a kleimer. We insert the kleimer into the groove, hammer three finishing nails into the holes of the kleimer through the doboinik. One panel will need at least two cleats, depending on the length of the lining.

We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. It is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters here. Lastly, from above and below, we fasten the triangles cut from the lining, fixing them with nails through and through.

We mount the next row in the same way, but change the direction of the lining.

After installation, the joints of the panels are closed with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it with finishing nails strictly vertically.

There is one more way of laying the "herringbone". The technology resembles the laying of parquet. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel, excluding the tenon. Fixation is done with clamps or construction brackets.

Herringbone wall cladding method

Method of mounting lining "rhombus"

As a crate, it is better to use not a timber, but boards. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling decoration.

Step 1. You need to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. Draw a straight line between the corners of 30 degrees, breaking the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a thorn is located on the two edges of the rhombus. We cut out the workpiece. We connect two triangles to make a rhombus. We fix the rhombus with finishing nails through to the crate (two nails for each triangle, we do not drive in the carnations completely).

Step 2. We take the whole panel of the lining. We apply it to the rhombus, connecting its spike to the groove of the board. On the board we make markings for cutting.

We are leading a straight line to the thorn. On the lining spike, draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings to the other side of the panel spike.

We saw the board according to the markings. To do this, turn the lining over with the pencil markings down, put the edge circular saw on the line marked on the thorn. We turn on the saw and make a cut.

We take the second lining board. We attach it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no thorn). We carry out markings for cutting, observing the accuracy of the angles. We carry out the check with a protractor and a long ruler. We cut along the markings.

Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on the table or on the floor, nailing the wooden elements with finishing studs to a piece of FSF plywood.

Step 3. We continue to work. Haste is unacceptable. It is important to accurately mark and cut, to join the corners. We mark or number each element so that in the future it will be more convenient to mount it on the wall or ceiling.

Step 4. When the decorative element reaches the right size, you need to take out the carnations and disassemble all the panels that were collected on the table.

We will assume that the insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the crate is full. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the rhombus will be located. Accordingly, the center can be located only on the plane of one of the beams or sheathing boards. We nail the central rhombus to the crate by driving the finishing studs into the thorn. For convenience, it is better to use a doboinik so as not to break the lining with a hammer.

We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows from a mallet and fix them in the same way.

Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further cladding can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular

The joints of the rhombus can be closed with a thin wooden plinth, nailing it through with finishing galvanized nails.

On a note! By placing the lining panels in different directions, combining the lining of different types of wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. Wood of the "elite class" is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, eucalyptus.

When the cladding is complete, saturate the wood with a protective compound.

Video - Decorating premises with clapboard, the result of laying boards in different directions

Video - Lining ceilings

Mosaic wall decoration

If the walls of the bath are wooden, of course, you cannot put tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant drywall will act as a basis for the mosaic. This material is quite hard, does not deform in high humidity conditions, does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, it is completely safe.

The frame for drywall is similar in structure to the frame for the lining. For its arrangement, we will prepare a timber of 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic, galvanized self-tapping screws, perforated corners. We will carry out the marking using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.

The timber must be antiseptic on its own or purchased material that has already been processed. Store the timber indoors

Step 1. We fix the timber under the ceiling with self-tapping screws (if an interior partition is being made, then the upper timber must be fixed to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the lower beam. They must be in the same plane.

Step 2. We fasten the lower beam to the wall with self-tapping screws for wood.

If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, the fastening is carried out with dowels along the pre-drilled holes in the wall.

Step 3. We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length of the vertical posts. We cut the timber with a jigsaw or a saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We fasten the rack to the upper and lower beams with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 4. At regular intervals, install the following racks in the same way. We check that the racks are in the same plane.

Step 5. We cut the timber to a length equal to the distance between the posts. We fix intermediate jumpers between the posts with corners and self-tapping screws.

Frame made of metal profiles

Step 1. Using a laser level, we check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor, measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places with a tape measure.

Step 2. If the differences are significant, we knock down the protrusions with a puncher. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the plane check operation again.

Step 3... Using the rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we retreat from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). A profile will be located along this line. We fasten the PN 50x40 profile to the floor with dowel-nails.

We draw a line along which the profile will be located

Step 4. We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with dowel-nails 6x60 mm.

Step 5. We fix the PN profile to the ceiling. The top and bottom profiles must be in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make docking, that is, we insert one segment of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.

Insert the profile into vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontalness of the upper guide, for this we insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.

If necessary, move the upper profile a little and only then fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install the fasteners at intervals of 50 cm.

Important! The laying of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before the start of finishing work.

Step 6. Install intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The distance between the profiles is taken taking into account the dimensions of the drywall sheet. For example, from the extreme post we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and set the fourth post so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (corner) profile.

Step 7. We check the position of the vertical posts with a level and begin fixing the profiles with suspensions.

We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. Mark the points for drilling holes with a marker. We drill holes with a puncher, insert dowels into the holes, attach suspensions and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We bend the shelves of the suspensions, screw in the self-tapping screws "bugs" to attach the suspension to the profile.

First, we fix the suspensions in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the suspensions is about 50-60 cm.

On a note! To prevent the vertical profiles from shifting or turning along their axis during the installation of suspensions, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Step 8. We install jumpers. We mark the profiles for cutting. According to the markings, we cut the profile with a grinder.

We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

Installed jumpers. They are necessary if the size of the drywall sheet is less than the height of the walls.

On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.

Installation of drywall sheets on the frame

Consider an example of installation on a metal profile frame. Installation of sheets on a wooden frame is carried out in the same way, the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Do not allow direct contact of drywall with the floor; plastic linings will be placed under the sheets. It is also not necessary to fasten the sheets tightly butt-to-end; it is better to leave a 1 mm gap between the edges for the convenience of filling.

For cladding, we use sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum board 12 mm thick. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The step between the screws is about 15-17 cm. Screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.

First, we fix the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and along this line we carry out fasteners. We recessed the caps of the self-tapping screws into the sheet by 1 mm.

Puttying seams

The joints of the sheets must be putty using a mesh and a moisture-resistant putty. If the edges of the drywall have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is embedded in the putty mixture. After the putty dries, the seams are rubbed with sandpaper.

Mosaic wall decoration

To fix the mosaic on the walls of the bath, it is better to use a moisture-resistant glue, for example, "Ceresit CM 115".

Step 1. Cooking glue.

The room temperature should be from +5 to + 30 ° С. The recommended water temperature for the adhesive mixture is from +15 to + 20 ° C.

Gradually add the dry mixture to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of the mixture is required. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer or a drill with an appropriate attachment. Drill or mixer rotations should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, we pause for 5 minutes and repeat the mixing.

Advice! You should not cook a lot of glue at once, the time of its application is limited to 20-30 minutes. Do not dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens slightly, you need to mix the mixture well.

Step 2. We apply glue to the wall. We begin to glue the mosaic from the upper left corner. We collect some glue with a regular trowel and apply the mixture to the edge of the notched trowel. We distribute the glue evenly over the drywall.

Step 3. We unpack the mosaic, take one piece and press the mesh to the glue. Gently straighten it so that there is the same distance between the elements. We roll the entire fragment with a roller or a wide rubber spatula.

It is important to keep the installation level so that the rows are even. The area of the applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.

You can only cut the mesh; it is not recommended to deform the pieces of ceramic or glass themselves.

Step 4. After 24 hours (or more, depending on the drying rate of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout. To fill the joints, we use a moisture-repellent compound with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.

For 2 kilograms of dry mixture, you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Pour the dry mixture into water gradually. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat the mixing of the grout. The finished solution must be consumed in two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water, so as not to deteriorate the properties of the grout.

Apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber trowel, spreading it diagonally. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or cloth. Remove the remains of grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry cloth.

Mosaics can be used to decorate a shower room or dressing room completely or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware.

Talcochlorite is highly valued by bath attendants for beneficial features... The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from soapstone have a healing effect for the body.

Talcochlorite is used to decorate stoves and walls in a steam room, but nothing will prevent you from decorating with tiles from this stone, for example, a relaxation room in a bathhouse or a shower room.

Talcochlorite is available in various variations - tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. Manufacturers offer skirting boards, curbs and soapstone corners as additional elements. If you are going to finish the wall in the steam room, you will need heat-resistant glue for stone (used for facing stoves, fireplaces), and when facing a shower room, it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.

The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. Tiles are laid from the bottom up, observing the horizontal rows. The glue is applied with a notched trowel, the tiles are gently pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and under joining. The second method is suitable for tiles with a regular shape and a smooth surface. Tiles are cut with a grinder with a diamond disc. Grouting is done with a heat-resistant stone mixture.

The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.

Combination of smooth soapstone tiles and torn stone tiles

Video - Mining and processing of talcum powder

Video - Technology of gluing decorative stone

Remember - the interior decoration of the bath should be not only exclusive, but also practical. It is important to Decoration Materials did not contribute to the development of mold and mildew, were easy to clean, were safe for health and as durable as possible.

The steam room is the most important room of the bath, because there is no bath without a steam room. Traditionally, around this small room, for convenience, additional spaces are designed, of which there can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower room, a recreation room, a pool, etc. A unique and attractive design can be developed for each bath room.

Getting started finishing the hottest and wettest room, you need to remember that the work will be not just the external decoration of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of tasks:

preparation of the walls;
thermal insulation is applied;
thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
external finishing is carried out;
design developments are brought to life, which give the interior completeness and aesthetics.

Steam room decoration is divided into several important stages and proceeds sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correctness of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. Therefore, the first two critical steps:

choosing a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless in case of temperature changes;
selection of the most suitable material for decoration, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

The choice of insulation and vapor barrier

Baths have been built from century to century, ancestors used natural materials for their insulation: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, available and as ecological as possible, they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. For warming the steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which rock waste is used as a raw material. Such material is produced both in rolls and in slabs. It is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms, ecological, and is distinguished by its durability.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply irreplaceable for thermal insulation of those places of the wall and ceiling, which are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never decays, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and at the same time does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to building a steam room.

As for vapor barrier materials, foil films become the most effective at 100% humidity and maximum temperatures.

The choice of material for finishing

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, they take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but the main ones are operational qualities:

hygiene,
resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
safety and complete absence of toxins,
durability and reliability.

Attention! In the production of a steam room, it is prohibited to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various types of wood-based panels. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances emitted by artificial materials can seriously harm your health.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room is the lining, wooden planks, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used for arranging Russian-style baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions call for the use of hardwoods, as they do not emit resin in the heat.

Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength, such a tree does not rot or crack.
Lining of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give you relaxation.
Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, this breed is very durable.
The alder finish ensures not only durability but also odorlessness.

Hardwoods dry out quickly and therefore are not threatened by the fungus. High-quality lining has a minimum number of knots that can be harmful to health when touched by a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases gums that can cause severe burns if they come into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, be sure to check pine boards for the presence of so-called "resin pockets".

The decoration of baths and saunas with valuable abachi wood obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Preparation for finishing work

TO installation work start after the supply of electrics, when all the other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need the following materials and tools:

building level,
binding device,
puncher,
screwdriver,
hammer,
lining under the crate,
kleimers. and self-tapping screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, they start work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To prevent heat loss, even the smallest gaps are closed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have drops, then they must be leveled with wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently appear at different heights.

Installation of battens and insulation

P / pIllustrationComment


1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which has been leveled in advance.
2		And only then the lathing from the bar is attached. Use well-dried 60 × 27 mm and 50 × 25 mm beams without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The installation distance should not be more than 1 m. It is great if it is about 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted on the wall along the level. After that, according to the principle of racks, the extreme bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure a loose installation of the structure. The gap that forms between the floor plane and the stand provides for the "movement" of the tree during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is closed with a plinth). After installing the bars-racks, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve for attaching bars of a smaller section to them. This method of fastening is called floating, it will help to avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire lathing is adjusted to the level and fixed, if necessary, linings are applied.
		For semicircular or curved surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, not a whole bar is used, but its parts.
5		Insulation is placed in the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or deform, so it is secured with polypropylene twine.
6		Then the second layer of vapor barrier is placed with the rough side to the insulation, it is fixed with a stapler.
7		So that the tree is not subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing a wood preservative

The acquired wood preservative must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, infectious agents and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When buying, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Of the domestic means of protection, "Neomid" has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, it can be used for fire retardant impregnation and protection of the affected areas of the tree. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for the steam room and protects the wood from decay.

100% natural linseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the most successful ecological choice.

Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Due to the high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensation, prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stains, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

Treating wood with an antiseptic

For work you will need:

short-haired brush or brush,
White Spirit,
warm water,
soap.

The surface to be trimmed must be clean and dry. Before processing, the tree is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will lay down more tenaciously.

It is necessary to impregnate the timber and lining from all sides, after which the tree should dry out (48 hours). Before use, it is recommended to heat linseed oil of TM "GreenTherm" in a steam bath to 40 ° -45 ° C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or cloth.

Attention! The brush should only be shorthaired. They do not paint with oil, they rub it in, so a brush with long hair will not work for work.

Excess oil, which the wood has not absorbed, is removed from the surface with a cloth and the next layer is applied. Between the application of 2-3 layers, technological breaks of at least 12 hours are observed. The ends of the boards and beams are especially carefully processed. Drying requires 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%. The presence of excess oil in areas with low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as you like, in accordance with the artistic design intent. But when decorating a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unevenly, because at the top of the room is the highest temperature, and below it is the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is carried out unevenly, the boards will very quickly "drive" high humidity. The logical choice is the horizontal placement of the boards.

If the lining is fixed horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along the entire length, bending deformation does not appear. Of course, different finishing elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect at all general form sheathing.

Fastening the lining

Before starting work, you need to measure the steam room and cut the lining of the desired height.

The choice of mounting type depends on the room temperature.

If the room is not cold, then clamps can be used, rather than nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface and can cause burns. Cleamers are completely invisible, while the lining, fixed by them, can be dismantled and mounted several times.

The lining of the steam room is made from the stove and bypasses the room around the perimeter. The correct direction of installation is from top to bottom.

The board is fastened with the groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. Lining boards are assembled "groove into thorn", like a designer.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will drain freely without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from decay. The lower boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws, in which case they can be easily dismantled and replaced without disassembling the entire sheathing structure. On the doorway, the trim is nailed using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will start to rot on the back side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not be in direct contact with the floor either. One smart solution is to lay out a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Bath decoration

Choosing a tile or stone

For a good bath, with a scent natural wood, a steamed broom and aromatic oils, finishing with tiles made of natural stone is suitable: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for the floor and for laying the heat-resistant screen next to the oven. Ceramic decoration is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made of clay have been considered the standard of environmental friendliness; they do not emit any odors or fumes at all. For finishing the steam room, choose products with high heat resistance rates and with the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors; it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Terracotta tiles in the bath

Installation of tiles

For an area of about 6 square meters, you need to prepare:

level and tape measure,
6 square meters ceramic or stone tiles,
three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
one package of "Terracotta" grout,
stirring drill with attachment,
construction gun,
hammer,
putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant glue from the "Terracotta" company is used in those areas where the temperature will not exceed 400 ° C. When laying tiles in the area of the firebox, it is necessary to take a heat-resistant mastic, it is used in places where the heating is up to 1100 ° C.

First, prepare the base. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is applied, then the mesh, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

A cement screed is made on the floor, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and a drain should be organized. Twine or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the floor or wall, along which it will be possible to check the correct laying.

Before starting laying, the ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

When producing a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed well, the solution should have the consistency of heavy cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from the bottom up, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely cut drywall instead of crosses. When installing a drain hole on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

Floor tiles are mounted on glue with sand, glue without sand can shrink. All other rows are laid on the level with the already created slope.

On the back of each tile, the mortar is applied so that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor, and then shrunk down with a spatula.

Heat-resistant "Terracotta" grout is used for the joints, which can withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is poured with water and mixed with a mixer. After that, the solution can be filled into the tube of the pistol, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! Grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does hit the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only after that it is easy to remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work has been completed, it is already possible to carry out the first furnace.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Decorating the steam room

For a long time in Russia, the walls of the bath were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, flax and moss, which are occasionally used today, were used. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of a bath seems like a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about this, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

For reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate the inside of the bath exclusively with natural materials - for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films, sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why should the walls be insulated in log structures? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, from which serious cracks are formed. And through them cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not beneficial to either health or finances in terms of unnecessary fuel costs. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is mezhventsovaya caulking.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation even during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of warming frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a structure cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can only be used with a low weight. And foam as an external insulation is simply irreplaceable for block buildings - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath itself looks like this:

Step 1. Creates a frame on the load-bearing wall.
Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least polyethylene film... They need to be overlapped, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

Alternatively, use special PU foam plates.

Insulation of walls outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And also high-quality external thermal insulation - this is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, moisture control and a guarantee against mold and bad smell... After all, the main task of external insulation of a bath is to shelter building structures, to protect them from contact with cold air and atmospheric precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a brick bath and different kinds blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden planks.

But good old mineral wool is most suitable as a heat insulator for such a "pie": it is environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The insulation process itself looks like this:

Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which you need to acquire are elastic, capable of withstanding significant pressure.
Step 3. The remaining joints between the boards are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
Step 4. The walls are covered with a roll-up waterproofing, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil-clad penotherm - expanded polypropylene, which is covered with aluminum foil and metal-sprayed levsan. It withstands temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates really effective insulation baths.

Reliable insulation of the stove in the bath from the walls is one of the most basic works in the construction of a bath. Protection of combustible surfaces allows you to avoid not only fire, but also deformation of the wall material. It is important for home craftsmen to know the basic requirements and step-by-step instructions for working on thermal insulation from various materials.

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First, let's figure out whether it is always necessary to protect the surfaces of walls and ceilings in a bath.

When is it necessary to insulate the walls from the stove?

If the stove is made of bricks, or is located at a distance of more than 1000 mm from the wall, it makes no sense to carry out a full cycle of thermal insulation work. In these cases, it is enough to make a protective screen from foil on moisture-resistant kraft paper. It is important to know the gaps between the wall and ovens with different surface materials:

the oven, laid out with a wall thickness of half a brick, is recommended to be moved away from the surfaces of the bath by 350-400 mm;
a metal stove, not lined with brick or a layer of thermal insulation, must be at least 1000 mm away from the walls;
It is recommended to install a steel stove with an extended part of the firebox and protected by thermal insulation at a distance of 700 mm.

But most individual baths are small in size and it is not always possible to withstand the required clearances. Therefore, the optimal solution to the problem is to protect the walls and ceiling with a reliable layer of thermal insulation made of non-combustible moisture-resistant materials.

Example of wall protection

SNIP requirements

Protection of the walls of the bath from the heat of the stove is carried out according to the requirements building codes... It is important for a home craftsman to know the main ones.

SNiP III-G.11-62

"Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of works. "

According to these standards, the gaps from the heater to the wall surfaces are:

the thickness of the lined wall panels of the stove is 24 cm, with a layer of plaster made from lime solution, or with the addition of a layer of cement, the thickness of which is 25 mm, as well as when applying a layer of asbestos and clay solution, 4 cm thick - the distance should be at least 13 cm;
the wall thickness of the half-brick stove and the application of a layer of lime plaster and the addition of asbestos, 25 mm thick or when protected with 4 cm thick asbestos-vermulite plates - distance from 300 mm;
when installing steel furnaces, with covering the furnace walls with a refractory material, the minimum distance to the plastered wooden walls is 700 mm, with a layer of gypsum and lime mortar of 25 mm;
when installing a steel stove in a bath with unplastered walls, the distance to them should be at least 1000 mm.

The inspector of the fire service checks and signs the permits for the use of the bathhouse when carrying out control measurements. Only after this procedure can you use the sauna.

SNiP 2.04.05-91

"Heating. Ventilation and air conditioning."

When purchasing an industrial design of a furnace, the installation requirements can be found in the instructions. Home craftsmen must know and fulfill several requirements:

the ceiling in the bath is protected by an asbestos slab, plaster and sheet metal, up to 1 cm thick, in this case the brick-built stove is made high so that the gap to the ceiling is at least 250 mm;
when installing a steel stove with a protective heat-insulating layer, maintain a gap to the ceiling of at least 700-800 mm, if the ceiling is plastered and protected with non-combustible materials;
in all other cases, the distance to the ceiling must be 1200 mm.

But the question arises before the home-made ones, how to sheathe the wall near the stove in the bath?

Wall insulation methods

Industry produces various materials and I want to choose the best option for price and quality. Let's analyze the main options for protecting surfaces in the steam room.

Fireproof drywall

This material is produced in the same way as ordinary drywall, but the outer surfaces are treated with special substances that make it impervious to high temperatures. At the same time, it is able to withstand the effects of open fire for 1 hour, without losing its properties and without emitting smoke and soot.

You can distinguish it by the color of the sheet marking. It is produced in red color. When buying, pay attention to 2 main characteristics of the material, which are indicated in the certificate:

limit of resistance to fire. This is the time of exposure to high temperatures until material breaks down. The higher this number, the more reliable the surface protection will be;
leaf weight. Sheets are used with a thickness of 12 mm, such drywall weighs more than usual, therefore it is important to take this characteristic into account, especially for laying on the ceiling.

Work on laying fire-resistant drywall is carried out according to the following scheme:

prepare the walls, for this they must be cleaned of dirt, remnants of the old finish layer. After that, it is necessary to prime the surfaces and level them with a solution;
fix waterproofing and thermal insulation on the walls;
we pass the walls and ceiling with impregnations that increase the fire resistance of surfaces;
we mark the place of installation of profiles for fastening drywall and fix the guides at a distance from the ceiling covering of the walls - 100 mm. The gap to the wooden floor is 50 mm. The frame is fixed with long self-tapping screws;
sheets of material are installed on the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which must be twisted flush with the surface of the sheets;
you can proceed to finishing work, but do not forget about the high humidity in the steam room, so you can treat the walls and ceiling with water-repellent impregnations. After that, the walls are putty, and a layer of decorative finish is applied.

The works on finishing the walls and ceilings of the bathhouse with the help of fire-resistant plasterboard have been completed.

Minerite

How to insulate the stove in a bath from a wooden wall? Many builders use the material "Minerite", which combines thermal insulation properties and protects surfaces from the effects of open fire.

These boards are manufactured with a fiber-cement backing and a hard face. Materials produced specifically for damp rooms and baths are not affected by humidity and heavy loads. With the help of Minerita plates, the wall covering is installed without gaps, it is not subject to deformation when heated, so there is no need to leave temperature gaps.

Plates can withstand heating up to 150 0, without changing their physical properties. Environmentally friendly when used in damp rooms and under the influence of high temperatures do not emit harmful substances and are resistant to the formation of fungi and mold.

Work on their installation is carried out similarly to the installation of drywall, but does not require the manufacture of a frame:

before work, we clean all surfaces from dirt and old coatings;
if necessary, we level the walls, especially the floors to prevent the sheet from bending;
slabs are laid on the floor or walls without gaps to the wall and fixed with self-tapping screws;
on the walls and floor, it is necessary to make a gap of 30 mm for air access. Therefore, self-made or industrial bushings are put on self-tapping screws. Therefore, when buying self-tapping screws, you must take into account the size of the indentation;
when installing slabs in a new bathhouse building, it is important to make small grooves or drill holes of a larger diameter in the place where the self-tapping screw passes. This is necessary to prevent damage to the slabs during shrinkage of the building.

After completing the work, the plates are putty and decorative finishing is applied.

Superizole

Fire-resistant material, consisting of quartz and quicklime with the addition of additives, is able to withstand temperatures of 120 0. It is used for decoration of fireplaces, walls, ceilings of a bath from the heat of the stove. When heated, no substances harmful to humans, unpleasant odors are emitted.

Plates with a thickness of 25-80 mm are fixed in the same way as drywall on glue, self-tapping screws or heat-resistant mastic. Thermal insulation of the stove in the bath with Superizol is not a cheap way to finish the coatings of a steam room, but you should not buy inexpensive Chinese stoves.

Stainless steel protective screen

For these purposes, screens with a matte or mirrored surface are used. Stainless steel sheets are an excellent solution both to protect the steam room coatings from fires, and as decorative trim premises.

But the material is quite expensive, so you can use a screen to protect the lower surface of the walls near the stove, and install a cheaper material on top.

Isolation of the sauna stove from a wooden wall using stainless screens is carried out according to the scheme:

General scheme

The screen is ready. It is better to use mirrored surfaces of screens, in this case, they will reflect heat, it will be faster and evenly distributed throughout the steam room. Thus, we create a protective screen around the stove in the bath, prevent burns and perform a layer of decorative trim.

What is the best way to choose?

The decoration of the wall from the stove for different types and sizes of baths is used in different shapes and materials. The main thing, in this case, is to ensure the fire safety of your steam room and to protect the walls from deformation at high heating temperatures.

Otherwise, it all depends on the capabilities and desires of the owners of the steam room. You can use heat-resistant tiles or expensive tiles, or you can simply close the walls and ceiling with mineral wool and a layer of metal foil. By leveling the walls with drywall sheets with surfaces not exposed to open fire, you can paint the steam room with heat-resistant paint with Minerita.

With a large bath, it is possible not to perform these works if the conditions of SNIP and fire safety are met. By making the concrete base larger than the stove and maintaining a gap of 1 m to the walls, you can safely use the stove and enjoy the steam. In any case, it is important to take care of safety and then your bath will serve you for a long time.

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