How to make drainage with your own hands under the house. Reliable protection against fatal destruction - drainage around the house

23.06.2020

If stains or traces of moisture are visible on the walls of the room, this is a sure sign of poor waterproofing. To avoid premature destruction of the building, the appearance of mold and rot, it is imperative to equip drainage around the house.

Purpose

Drainage is a drainage system that is used to eliminate excess fluid around a house, garden, or yard. Moisture can appear near the house due to various conditions: high levels ground water, strong melting or a special type of earth (clay, crushed stone, loam). Also, the drainage system is used in courtyards, where, due to the inconvenient location of the house, the water cannot leave on its own or, on the contrary, drains too quickly, leaving the ground dry and lifeless.

When to install drainage around the house:

If liquid collects in the basement during snowmelt or heavy precipitation;
If your area has a high level of groundwater;
When the foundation of the house is regularly washed away with water;
A capillary network appears on the floor or some areas of the building are prone to mold.

Drainage installation can be easily done by hand, in most cases a perimeter foundation drainage system around a private house is used. For more complex cases, it is possible to use a complex system of natural type. This is the arrangement of a number of drains, in which there are main (main) and additional ones. This technique is used on swampy soils or a very large piece of land.

How to do

There are two types of dehumidification that are used most often by craftsmen:

Surface;
Deep.

Surface or storm is a drain, which is protected by a special mesh. Water enters the pipeline after rain, as well as snowmelt. The system is at a certain angle to the building, which allows you to remove moisture in any quantity. Such surface drainage works well in warm regions with high average annual precipitation.

Photo: surface drainage

The deep system is more complex, but it is also considered much more effective than the surface one. The depth of the laying is determined by calculating the ratio of the size and depth of the foundation and the level of soil freezing. Soil type also plays a big role. To drain groundwater in this way, a separate pipeline or simply a paved trench can be used.

Without fail, wells are equipped at a certain distance from the drains, into which wastewater is collected. After that, it can be used for irrigation or simply go into the deeper layers of the earth.

The right device drainage around the house also involves the development of a project (diagram with structural details). Using this drawing, you will be able to determine which type of system is most preferable for you, as well as draw up an approximate estimate for the work. You can use the services of specialists, or develop a scheme yourself.

Related video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DloSGrkFtYA

Step-by-step instructions on how to make proper drainage around the house:

Calculate the communication distance from the foundation. It is very important that the drains do not touch the already laid sewer and water supply pipes. It is possible to lay wall drainage, it will run almost close to the base of the building, or more distant - at a distance of 1.5 - 2 meters from the wall;
After you need to dig a trench. Its depth depends on the level of groundwater, the preferred type of drainage system and the level of ground freezing. You can get all the necessary data from the geological bureau of your region;
It is necessary to dig in a place where the sewer does not pass, otherwise there is a possibility of a violation of its tightness;
The drain must be connected to a septic tank or a drainage well. To equip it, a cylindrical hole is dug at the lowest point of the site, in which a plastic barrel or concrete rings(depending on your needs). Installation is carried out simultaneously with the installation of drains, that is, the trenches must be connected to the septic tank. If everything is done correctly, then high waters they themselves will drain into a prepared place;
When the trench is ready, sand is poured onto its bottom, which will act as a filter layer. There are several options for arranging the drain itself. You can lay it with construction debris, placing large stones on the bottom and reducing their size as they approach the surface. Some craftsmen use drainage from plastic bottles, brushwood, boards for such purposes. For country house you can use improvised means, for example, bricks, but for a residential country cottage it is better to work with plastic pipes;
After you need to do the insulation of the drainage around the house. If you are organizing a drainage system from improvised materials, then thermal insulation will not be needed, but when working with a plastic pipeline, it is necessary. For this, communications are covered with geotextiles. The laying technology is similar to the insulation of sewer pipes - each drain is wrapped in material and additionally reinforced with clamps;
After the drainage site is filled up or covered with a mesh, depending on whether it is superficial or deep. With a deep arrangement, it is necessary to make the embankment a slide so that depressions and pits do not appear when the earth settles. In a large area, the ditch can be covered with a blind area. For example, a slate sheet or a brick path, then the drain will be completely invisible to prying eyes;
Every six months, you need to inspect the septic tank, clean it of silt and dirt.

Tip from homeowners with gardens: Fertilizer can be placed at the bottom of the trench, then the wastewater will become a source of essential minerals. In this case, it can later be used to water the garden and vegetable garden.

If the size of the local area allows you, then you can make a much simpler drainage system. In the lowest place of the land share, a hole is dug under the lake, it is naturally filled with water. With the right approach and organization, in the future it will be possible to make an excellent landscape design with interesting elements. For example, launch fish into an artificial reservoir or decorate it with lilies and other water-loving plants. For the fact that the ode will flow into the "pit", she will leave the house. If you solve the problem in this way, then do not forget to regularly clean the lake so that it does not flood and turn into a swamp

Price

The cost of arranging drainage around the house depends on the materials with which you will make the drainage system (for example, the price of construction waste is cheap). To work in the country, you can take the most affordable filters: wooden boards (fold them crosswise and install them with their ends on the walls of the trench), stones, fragments of bricks, slate. For the drainage system of a wooden or brick residential building, it is worth taking more complex and expensive materials - plastic pipes, old metal communications, even a pipe made of plastic bottles is suitable for low rainfall.

Be sure to take care of the insulation. If it is not possible to buy geotextiles for drainage, then cover the pipes with unnecessary rags or even humus. This will help keep the system from freezing during the cold season.

If you ask any experienced builder, developer, landscape designer about what needs to be done, first of all, on a site that has just been acquired and not yet built up, the answer will be unambiguous: the first is drainage, if there is a need for it. And this is almost always the case. The drainage of the site is always associated with a very large amount of excavation, so it is better to do them right away so that later you do not disturb the beautiful landscape that any good owners equip in their possessions.

Of course, the easiest way is to order site drainage services to specialists who will do everything quickly and correctly, using special equipment. However, this will always come at a cost. Perhaps the owners did not plan these expenses, perhaps they will violate the entire budget planned for the construction and arrangement of the site. In the proposed article, we propose to consider the question of how to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, as this will save a lot of money, and in most cases it is quite possible to do these works yourself.

Why is site drainage needed?

Looking through the estimates and price lists related to the drainage of the site, some developers begin to doubt the appropriateness of these activities. And the main argument is that earlier, in principle, no one "bothered" much on this. With such an argument for refusing to drain the site, it is worth noting that the quality and comfort of human life have greatly improved. After all, no one wants to live in dampness or in a house with earthen floors. No one wants to see cracks in their house, on the blind areas and paths that appeared after the next cold season. All homeowners want to improve their yard or, to put it in a modern and fashionable way, to make landscaping. After the rain, no one wants to "knead the mud" in stagnant puddles. If so, then drainage is definitely needed. You can do without it only in very rare cases. In which cases we will describe a little later.

Drainage? No, I haven't heard...

Drainage is nothing but removal from excess water from the surface of the site or from the depth of the soil. Why is site drainage needed?

First of all, in order to remove excess water or from the foundations of buildings and structures. The appearance of water in the area of \u200b\u200bthe base of the foundation can either provoke a movement of the soil - the house will “float”, which is typical for clay soils, or, in combination with freezing, frost heaving forces may appear that will create efforts to “squeeze” the house out of the ground.

Drainage is designed to remove water from basements and basements. No matter how effective waterproofing is, excess water will still seep through building structures. Basements without drainage can become damp and encourage the growth of mold and other fungi. In addition, precipitation in combination with the salts present in the soil very often form aggressive chemical compounds that adversely affect building materials.

Drainage will prevent the "squeezing out" of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater. Without drainage, a wastewater treatment system will not last long.
Drainage in conjunction with the system and around the buildings ensures that water is quickly removed, preventing it from seeping into the underground parts of the buildings.
Drainage prevents waterlogging of the soil. In areas equipped with well-planned and made drainage, water will not stagnate.
Waterlogged soil can cause rotting of the root parts of plants. Drainage prevents this and creates conditions for the growth of all garden, garden and ornamental plants.
With heavy precipitation in areas that have a slope, the fertile soil layer can be washed out by water flows. Drainage directs water flows into the drainage system, thereby preventing soil erosion.

Water erosion of fertile soil in the absence of drainage is a serious problem in agriculture

If the site is surrounded by a fence built on a strip foundation, then it can "seal" the natural ways of water drainage, creating conditions for waterlogging the soil. Drainage is designed to remove excess water from the perimeter of the site.
Drainage helps to avoid the formation of puddles on playgrounds, sidewalks and garden paths.

When Drainage Is Necessary Anyway

Consider those cases when drainage is needed in any case:

If the site is located on a flat area, then drainage is mandatory, since when a large amount of precipitation falls or snow melts, the water will simply have nowhere to go. According to the laws of physics, water always goes under the influence of gravity to a lower place, and on a flat landscape it will intensively soak the soil in a downward direction, which can lead to waterlogging. So, from a drainage point of view, it is beneficial for the site to have a slight slope.
If the site is located in a lowland, then its drainage is definitely needed, since water will drain from higher places to those below.
Strongly sloping sites also require drainage, as rapidly draining water will erode the top fertile soil layers. It is better to direct these flows into drainage channels or pipes. Then the main part of the water will go through them, preventing the soil layer from washing out.
If the site is dominated by clayey and heavy su clay soils, then after precipitation or snowmelt, water will often stagnate on them. Such soils prevent its penetration into the deep layers. Therefore, drainage is required.
If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, then drainage is indispensable.

If the buildings on the site have a heavily buried foundation, then it is likely that its sole will be in the zone of seasonal groundwater rise. Therefore, it is necessary to plan drainage at the stage of foundation work.
If a significant part of the site area is covered with artificial coverings made of concrete, paving stones or paving slabs, and if there are lawns equipped with an automatic irrigation system, then drainage is also needed.

From this impressive list, it becomes clear that drainage to one degree or another is necessary in most cases. But before you plan and do it, you need to study the site.

Studying the site for relief, soil type and groundwater level

Each site is individual in terms of relief, soil composition and groundwater level. Even two sites located nearby can be very different from each other, although there will still be a lot in common between them. Modern construction requirements suggest that the design of a house should begin only after geological and geodetic surveys have been carried out with the preparation of special reports that contain a lot of data, most of which are understandable only to specialists. If they are “translated” into the language of ordinary citizens who do not have education in the field of geology, hydrogeology and geodesy, then they can be listed as follows:

Topographic survey of the area where it is supposed. The photographs must show the cadastral boundaries of the site.
A characteristic of the relief, which should indicate what type of relief is present on the site (wavy or flat). If there are slopes, then their presence and direction are indicated, it is in their direction that water will flow. Attached is a topographic plan of the site indicating the contour lines of the relief.

Characteristics of the soil, what kind of soil it is and at what depth it lies on the site. To do this, experts drill exploratory wells in different places of the site, from where they take samples, which are then examined in the laboratory.
Physical and chemical properties of the soil. Its ability to be load-bearing for the planned house, as well as soil in combination with water, will affect concrete, metal and other building materials.
The presence and depth of groundwater, their seasonal fluctuations, taking into account exploration, archival and analytical data. It is also indicated in which soils water can appear and how they will affect the planned building structures.

The degree of heaving of soils, the possibility of landslides, subsidence, flooding and swelling.

The result of all these studies should be recommendations on the design and depth of the foundation, the degree of waterproofing, insulation, protection from aggressive chemical compounds, and drainage. It happens that on an impeccable-looking site, experts, in general, will not allow building such a house as the owners intended. For example, a house with a basement was planned, and a high GWL forces specialists to recommend not to do this, therefore, instead of the originally planned strip foundation with a basement, they will recommend a pile foundation without underground facilities. There is no reason not to trust both these studies and specialists, since they have indisputable tools in their hands - measurements, drilling, laboratory experiments, statistics and calculations.

Of course, geological and geodetic surveys are not done free of charge, and they are done at the expense of the developer and they are mandatory on a new site. This fact is often the subject of indignation of some owners, but it should be understood that this procedure will help save a lot of money during the construction and further operation of the house, as well as maintaining the site in good condition. Therefore, this seemingly unnecessary and expensive bureaucracy is necessary and very useful.

If the site is purchased with existing buildings that have been in operation for at least a few years, then you can also order geological and geodetic surveys, but you can do without them, and learn about groundwater, its seasonal rise and unpleasant impact on human life on other grounds. Of course, this will be with a certain degree of risk, but in most cases it works. What you should pay attention to?

First of all, this is communication with the former owners of the site. It is clear that it is not always in their interests to talk in detail about problems with flooding, but, nevertheless, you can always find out if any drainage measures have been taken. This will not be hidden for anything.
Inspection of the basement can also tell a lot about something. Whether it was done there redecorating. If indoors elevated level humidity, it will be immediately felt.

Getting to know your neighbors and interviewing them can be much more informative than talking to the former owners of the site and the house.
If there are wells or wells on your site and neighboring ones, then the water level in them will eloquently report on the GWL. Moreover, it is desirable to observe how the level changes in different seasons. Theoretically, the maximum water should rise in the spring after the snow has melted. In summer, if there were dry periods, the groundwater level should fall.
Plants growing on the site can also “tell” a lot to the owner. The presence of plants such as cattail, reeds, sedge, horse sorrel, nettle, hemlock, foxglove indicate that groundwater is at a level of no more than 2.5-3 meters. If even during a drought these plants continue their rapid growth, then this once again indicates the proximity of water. If licorice or wormwood grow on the site, then this is evidence that the water is at a safe depth.

Some sources speak of an old way of determining the level of groundwater, which was used by our ancestors before building a house. To do this, a piece of turf was removed in the area of interest and a shallow hole was dug, on the bottom of which a piece of wool was laid, an egg was placed on it, and covered with an inverted clay pot and the removed turf. After dawn and sunrise, the pot was removed and watched as the dew fell. If the egg and wool are in dew, then the water is shallow. If dew fell only on wool, then there is water, but it is at a safe depth. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then the water is very deep. It may seem that this method is akin to quackery or shamanism, but in fact it has an absolutely correct explanation, from the point of view of science.
The growth of bright grass on the site even during a drought, as well as the appearance of fog in the evening hours, indicates the proximity of groundwater.
The best way to independently determine the groundwater level at the site is to drill test wells. To do this, you can use a regular garden drill with extension cords. Drilling is best done during the highest rise of water, that is, in the spring after the snow melts. First of all, wells should be made at the construction site of a house or an existing building. The well should be drilled to the depth of the foundation plus 50 cm. If water begins to appear in the well immediately or after 1-2 days, this indicates that drainage measures are mandatory.

Beginner's Geologist's Kit - Garden Drill with Extension

If, after rain, puddles stagnate on the site, then this may indicate the proximity of groundwater, as well as the fact that the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, which prevents the water from going deep into the ground. In this case, drainage is also necessary. It will also be very useful to update the fertile soil to a lighter one, then there will be no problems with growing most garden and garden plants.

Even a very high level of groundwater in the area, although it is a big problem, is a problem that can be completely solved with the help of well-calculated and well-executed drainage. Let's give a good example - more than half of the territory of Holland lies below sea level, including the capital - the famous Amsterdam. The groundwater level in this country can be at a depth of several centimeters. Those who have been to Holland noticed that after rain there are puddles that do not soak into the ground, because they simply have nowhere to soak. Nevertheless, in this cozy country, the issue of draining the land is being solved with the help of a set of measures: dams, dams, polders, locks, canals. The Netherlands even has a special department - Watershap, which deals with flood protection. The abundance of many windmills in this country does not at all mean that they grind grain. Most mills are pumping water.

We do not call for a special purchase of a site with a high level of groundwater, on the contrary, this should be avoided by all possible means. And the example of Holland was given only so that readers could understand that there is a solution to any problem with groundwater. Moreover, in most of the territory former USSR settlements and holiday villages are located in areas where the groundwater level is within acceptable limits, and you can cope with seasonal rises on your own.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great variety of drainage systems and their varieties. Moreover, in different sources, their classification systems may differ from each other. We will try to talk about the simplest, from a technical point of view, drainage systems, but at the same time effective ones that will help solve the problem of removing excess water from the site. Another argument in favor of simplicity is that the fewer elements any system has and the more time it can do without human intervention, the more reliable it will be.

Surface drainage

This type of drainage is the simplest, but, nevertheless, quite effective. It is intended mainly to drain water coming in the form of precipitation or snowmelt, as well as to drain excess water in case of any technological processes, for example, when washing cars or garden paths. Surface drainage is done in any case around buildings or other structures, sites, places of exit from the garage or yard. Surface drainage is of two main types:

Point drainage designed to collect and drain water from a specific place. This type of drainage is also called local drainage. The main locations for point drainage are under roof gutters, in pits in front of doors and garage doors, and at the locations of irrigation taps. And also point drainage, in addition to its direct purpose, can complement another type of surface drainage system.

The storm water inlet is the main element of the point surface drainage

Linear drainage needed to remove water from a larger area compared to a point. It is a collection trays and channels, mounted with a slope, equipped with various elements: sand traps (sand traps), protective grilles , performing a filtering, protective and decorative function. Trays and channels can be made from a variety of materials. First of all, it is plastic in the form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). And also materials such as concrete or polymer concrete are widely used. Grates are most often used plastic, but in those areas where increased load is expected, stainless steel or even cast iron products can be used. Work on the organization of linear drainage requires concrete preparation of the base.

Obviously, any good surface drainage system almost always combines elements of point and linear. And all of them together are combined into a common drainage system, which may also include another subsystem, which we will consider in the next section of our article.

rain gutter prices

storm water inlet

deep drainage

In most cases, surface drainage alone cannot be dispensed with. To qualitatively solve the problem, we need a different type of drainage - deep, which is a system of special drainage pipes (drains) , laid in those places where it is required to lower the level of groundwater or divert water from the protected area. Drains are laid with a slope to the side collector, well , artificial or natural reservoir on the site or beyond. Naturally, they are laid below the level of the base of the foundation of the protected building or along the perimeter of the site at a depth of 0.8-1.5 meters to lower the groundwater level to non-critical values. Drains can also be laid in the middle of the site with a certain interval, which is calculated by experts. Typically, the interval between the pipes is 10-20 meters, and they are laid in the form of a Christmas tree, directed to the main outlet pipe-collector. It all depends on the level of groundwater and their quantity.

When laying drains in trenches, it is imperative to use all the features of the site relief. Water will always move from a higher place to a lower one, so the drains are laid in the same way. It is much more difficult if the site is absolutely flat, then the desired slope of the pipes is given by giving a certain level to the bottom of the trenches. It is customary to make a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe for clay and loamy soils and 3 cm per 1 meter for sandy soils. Obviously, with sufficiently long drains, it will be difficult to maintain the desired slope on a flat area, since the level difference will already be 20 or 30 cm per 10 meters of the pipe, so the necessary measure is the organization of several drainage wells that will be able to receive the required volume of water.

It should be noted that even with a smaller slope, water, even at 1 cm per 1 meter or less, will still, obeying the laws of physics, try to go below the level, but the flow rate will be less, and this can contribute to silting and clogging of drains. And any owner who has laid sewer or drainage pipes at least once in his life knows that it is much more difficult to maintain a very small slope than a larger one. Therefore, you should not be “embarrassed” in this matter and boldly set a slope of 3, 4 and even 5 cm per meter of the drainage pipe, if the length and the planned difference in the depth of the trench allow.

Drainage wells are one of the most important components of deep drainage. They can be of three main types:

Rotary wells – suit where the drains make a turn or there is a connection of several elements. These elements are needed for the revision and cleaning of the drainage system, which must be done periodically. They can be as small in diameter, which will only allow cleaning and washing with a jet of water under pressure, but they can also be wide, which provide human access.

Water intake wells - their purpose is absolutely clear from their name. In those areas where it is not possible to divert water into the depths or beyond, it becomes necessary to collect water. These wells are designed for just that. Previously, they were mainly a structure made of cast-in-place concrete, concrete rings or plastered cement mortar bricks. Now, plastic containers of various sizes are most often used, which are protected from clogging or silting with geotextiles and sprinkling of crushed stone or gravel. Water collected in a water intake well can be pumped out of the site using special submersible drainage pumps, can be pumped out and taken out by tankers, or can be settled in a well or pool for further irrigation.

absorption wells designed to drain water in the event that the terrain of the site does not allow moisture to be removed beyond its limits, but the underlying soil layers have good absorbency. These soils include sandy and sandy loam. Such wells are made of large diameters (about 1.5 meters) and depths (at least 2 meters). The well is filled with filter material in the form of sand, sand-gravel mixture, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or slag. To prevent the ingress of eroded fertile soil or various blockages from above, the well is also covered with fertile soil. Naturally, the side walls and the bottom are protected by sprinkling. Water, falling into such a well, is filtered by its contents and goes deep into sandy or sandy loamy soils. The ability of such wells to remove water from the site may be limited, so they are arranged when the expected throughput should not exceed 1-1.5 m 3 per day.

Of the drainage systems, the main and most important is deep drainage, since it is it that provides the necessary water regime for both the site and all the buildings located on it. Any mistake in the design and installation of deep drainage can lead to very unpleasant consequences, which can lead to the death of plants, flooding of basements, destruction of house foundations, and uneven drainage of the site. That is why it is recommended not to neglect geological and geodetic studies and ordering a drainage system project from specialists. If it is possible to correct flaws in surface drainage without a strong violation of the landscape of the site, then with deep drainage everything is much more serious, the price of a mistake is too high.

Well prices

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

For self-execution of the drainage of the site and the buildings located on it, you need to find out what components will be required for this. Of the widest selection of them, we have tried to show the most used at the present time. If earlier the market was dominated by Western manufacturers, who, as monopolists, dictated high prices for their products, now a sufficient number of domestic enterprises offer their products, which are in no way inferior in quality.

Details for surface drainage

For point and linear surface drainage, the following parts can be used:

Name, manufacturer	Purpose and description
Tray drainage concrete 1000140125 mm with a steel stamped galvanized lattice. Production - Russia.	Designed for surface water drainage. Capacity 4.18 l/s, able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	880 rub.
Tray drainage concrete with cast iron grate, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same as in the previous example. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1480 rub.
Concrete drainage tray with steel galvanized mesh grid, dimensions 1000140125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and throughput are the same. Able to withstand loads up to 12.5 tons (B125).	1610 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with plastic grating. Production - Russia.	The purpose is the same, the throughput is 1.9 l / s. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15). The material combines the advantages of plastic and concrete.	820 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 25 tons of load (C250).	1420 rub.
Polymer concrete drainage tray 100014070 mm with steel mesh grating. Production - Russia.	throughput is the same. Able to withstand up to 12.5 tons of load (B125).	1550 rub.
Tray plastic drainage 100014560 mm with a galvanized stamped lattice. Production - Russia.	Made from frost-resistant polypropylene. Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	760 rub.
Plastic drainage tray 100014560 mm with cast-iron grate. Production - Russia.	Throughput 1.8 l/sec. Able to withstand loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1360 rub.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With plastic grid. Production - Russia.	Designed for point drainage of water flowing from the roof through the downpipe, and can also be used to collect water under yard, garden watering taps. Can be connected to fittings with diameters of 75, 110, 160 mm. Removable basket provides quick cleaning. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a plastic grate - 1000 rubles.
Completed plastic rainwater inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300300300 mm. With cast-iron grate "Snowflake". Production - Russia.	The purpose is similar to the previous one. Withstands loads up to 25 tons (C250).	For a set together with siphon partitions, a waste basket and a cast-iron grate - 1550 rubles.
Sand trap - plastic with a galvanized steel grate. Dimensions 500116320 mm.	Designed to collect dirt and debris in surface linear drainage systems. It is installed at the end of the line of gutters (trays) and later it joins the pipes of the storm sewer system with a diameter of 110 mm. Able to withstand loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with gratings 975 rubles.

In the table, we deliberately showed Russian-made trays and storm water inlets, made of materials that differ from each other and have different configurations. It is also worth noting that the trays have different widths and depths and, accordingly, their throughput is also not the same. There are a lot of options for the materials from which they are made and sizes, there is no need to list them all, since it depends on many factors: the required throughput, the expected load on the soil, the specific scheme for implementing the drainage system. That is why it is best to entrust the calculations of the drainage system to specialists who will calculate the required size and quantity, and select the components.

There was absolutely no need to talk about possible accessories for drainage trays, storm water inlets and sand traps in the table, since in each individual case they will be different. When buying, if there is a system project, the seller will always tell you the ones you need. They can be end caps for trays, mounts for gratings, various corner and transition elements, reinforcing profiles, and others.

A few words should be said about sand traps and storm water inlets. If the surface linear drainage around the house is implemented with storm water inlets in the corners (and this is usually done), then sand traps will not be required. Rain inlets with siphon partitions and waste baskets do an excellent job with their role. If the linear drainage does not have storm water inlets and goes into the sewer drainage pipe, then a sand trap is required. That is, any transition from drainage trays to pipes must be done either with the help of a storm inlet or a sand trap. Only this way and not otherwise! This is done so that sand and various heavy debris do not get into the pipes, as this can lead to their rapid wear, and both they and the drainage wells will become clogged over time. It is hard to disagree that it is easier to periodically remove and wash the baskets while on the surface than to go down into the wells.

Surface drainage also includes wells and pipes, but they will be discussed in the next section, since, in principle, they are the same for both types of systems.

Details for deep drainage

Deep drainage is a more complex engineering system that requires more details. In the table we present only the main ones, since all their diversity will take up a lot of space and attention of our readers. If desired, it will not be difficult to find catalogs of manufacturers of these systems, select the necessary parts and accessories for them.

Name and manufacturer	Purpose and description	Approximate price (as of October 2016)
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites. Wrapped with geotextile to prevent clogging of pores with soil, sand, which prevents clogging and silting. They have a full (circular) perforation. Made from low pressure polyethylene (HDPE). Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	For 1 r.p. 48 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 60 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 115 rub.
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-walled in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 r.p. 190 rub.
Single-wall corrugated drainage pipes made of HDPE with a coconut coir filter with diameters of 90, 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of manufacture - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and sites on clay and peat soils. Coconut coir has increased reclamation and strength compared to geotextiles. They have circular perforations. Rigidity class SN-4. Depth of laying up to 4 m.	219, 310, 744, 1074 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
Two-layer drainage pipes with Typar SF-27 geotextile filter. The outer layer of HDPE is corrugated, the inner layer of HDPE is smooth. Diameters 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for removal of excess moisture from the bases and sites on all types of soils. They have a full (circular) perforation. The outer layer protects against mechanical stress, and the inner layer allows, due to its smooth surface, to remove more water. The two-layer design has a stiffness class of SN-6 and allows you to lay pipes at a depth of up to 6 meters.	160, 240, 385 rubles. for 1 r.m. (depending on diameter).
PVC pipes for sewerage are smooth with a socket with an outer diameter of 110, 125, 160, 200 mm, length 1061, 1072, 1086, 1106 mm, respectively. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for organizing an external sewer system, as well as storm sewer or drainage systems. They have a stiffness class of SN-4, which allows them to be laid at a depth of up to 4 meters.	180, 305, 270, 490 rubles. for pipes: 1101061 mm, 1251072 mm, 1601086 mm, 2001106 mm respectively.
Well shafts with a diameter of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Are intended for creation of drainage wells (rotary, water intake, absorption). They have a two-layer construction. Ring stiffness SN-4. The maximum length is 6 meters.	950, 1650, 3700, 7400 rubles for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Bottom-plug of wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells: rotary or water intake.	940, 1560, 4140, 7100 for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Inserts into the well in place with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for insertion into a well at any level of sewer or drainage pipes of appropriate diameters.	350, 750, 2750 rubles for inserts with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm, respectively.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 340 mm. Country of origin - Russia.		500 rub.
Hatch polymer concrete for drainage wells with a diameter of 460 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	It is intended for installation on drainage wells. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons.	850 rub.
Polyester geotextile with a density of 100 g/m². Country of origin - Russia.	Used to create drainage systems. It is not subject to rotting, influence of a mold, rodents and insects. Roll length from 1 to 6 m.	20 rub. for 1 m².

The presented table shows that the cost of even Russian-made parts for drainage systems can hardly be called cheap. But the effect of their use will delight the owners of the site for at least 50 years. It is about this service life that the manufacturer claims. Considering that the material for manufacturing drainage parts is absolutely inert with respect to all substances found in nature, it can be assumed that the service life will be much longer than stated.

We deliberately did not indicate the previously widely used asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes in the table, since apart from the high price and difficulties in transportation and installation, they will not bring anything. This is yesterday's age.

To create drainage systems, there are still a lot of components from various manufacturers. These include tray parts, which can be throughput, connecting, prefabricated and dead-end. They are designed to connect drainage pipes of various diameters to wells. They provide connections for drainage pipes at various angles.

For all obvious benefits tray parts with sockets for pipes, their price is very high. For example, the part shown in the figure above costs 7 thousand rubles. Therefore, in most cases, inserts into the well are used, as indicated in the table. Another advantage of tie-ins is that they can be done at any level and at any angle to each other.

In addition to those parts for drainage systems that are indicated in the table, there are many others that are selected by calculation and during installation on site. These may include various cuffs and o-rings, couplings, tees and crosses, check valves for drainage and sewer pipes, eccentric transitions and necks, bends, plugs and much more. Their correct selection should be dealt with, first of all, during the design, and then make adjustments during installation.

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

Video: Drainage wells

If readers find articles on drainage on the Internet that say that it is easy to make drainage with your own hands, then we advise you to immediately close this article without reading it. Making drainage with your own hands is not an easy task. But, the main thing is that it is possible if you do everything consistently and correctly.

Site drainage design

drainage system- a complex engineering object that requires an appropriate attitude. Therefore, we recommend that our readers order the design of the drainage of the site from professionals who will take into account absolutely everything: the relief of the site, the existing (or planned) buildings, the composition of the soil, and the depth of the GWL, and other factors. After the design, the customer will have a set of documents in his hands, which includes:

Site plan with its relief.
A scheme for laying pipes for wall or ring drainage, indicating the section and type of pipes, the depth of occurrence, the required slopes, and the location of the wells.
The drainage scheme of the site, also indicating the depth of the trenches, types of pipes, slopes, the distance between adjacent drains, the location of rotary or water intake wells.

It will be difficult to independently make a detailed design of the drainage system without knowledge and experience. That is why you should turn to professionals

Scheme of surface point and linear drainage indicating the size of trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, used sewer pipes, location of water intake wells.
Transverse dimensions of trenches for near-wall and deep drainage, indicating the depth, material and thickness of the backfill, type of geotextile used.
Calculation of necessary components and materials.
An explanatory note to the project describing the entire drainage system and the technology for performing work.

The project of the drainage system of the site is much lower than the architectural one, so we once again strongly advise you to contact the specialists. This minimizes the likelihood of errors during self-arrangement of drainage.

Wall drainage equipment at home

To protect the foundations of houses from the effects of groundwater, the so-called wall drainage is made, which is located around the entire house on its outer side at some distance from the base of the foundation. usually it is 0.3-0.5 m, but in any case not more than 1 meter. Wall drainage is done even at the stage of building a house, along with measures for warming and waterproofing the foundation. When is this type of drainage necessary anyway?

Prices for drainage systems

When the house has a basement.

When the buried parts of the foundation are at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters above the groundwater level.
When a house is built on clay or loamy soils.

All modern house designs almost always provide wall drainage. An exception can only be those cases when the foundation is laid on sandy soils that do not freeze through more than 80 cm.

A typical wall drainage design is shown in the figure.

At some distance from the base of the foundation, approximately 30 cm below its level, a leveling layer of sand 10 cm is made, on which a geotextile membrane with a density of at least 150 g / m² is laid, on which a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm with a thickness of at least 10 cm is poured. Instead of crushed stone, washed gravel may well be used. Crushed stone is better to use granite, but not limestone, since the latter tends to gradually erode with water. A drainage pipe wrapped with geotextile is laid on a crushed stone pillow. The pipes are given the desired slope - at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe.

In the places where the pipe turns, inspection and inspection wells are necessarily made. The rules allow them to be done through one turn, but practice suggests that it is better not to save on this and put them on every turn. The slope of the pipes is done in one direction (in the figure from point K1, through points K2 and K3, to point K4). In this case, it is necessary to take into account the terrain. It is assumed that point K1 is at the highest point, and K4 at the lowest.

Drains are inserted into wells not from the very foundation, but with an indent of at least 20 cm from the bottom. Then the small debris or silt that has fallen will not linger in the pipes, but will settle in the well. In the future, when revising the system, you can wash out the silted bottom with a strong jet of water, which will carry away everything unnecessary. If the soil in the area where the wells are located has a good absorbing capacity, then the bottom is not made. In all other cases, it is better to equip the wells with a bottom.

A layer of crushed stone or washed gravel with a thickness of at least 20 cm is again poured over the drains, and then it is wrapped around with the previously laid geotextile membrane. On top of such a “wrapped” structure made of a drainage pipe and rubble, a backfill of sand is made, and on top, after it is compacted, a blind area of the building is already organized, which is also called upon, but already in the system of surface linear drainage. Even if atmospheric water enters from the outside of the foundation, then, having passed through the sand, it will fall into the drains and eventually merge into the main collector well, which can be equipped with a pump. If the relief of the site allows, then an overflow is made from the collector well without a pump, which removes water outside into a gutter, an artificial or natural reservoir, or a storm sewer system. Under no circumstances should drainage be connected to a conventional sewer system.

If groundwater begins to "support" from below, then they, first of all, impregnate the sandy preparation and crushed stone in which the drains are located. The speed of water movement along the drains is higher than in the ground, so the water is quickly removed and drained into a collector well, which is laid lower than the drains. It turns out that inside a closed circuit of drainage pipes, water simply cannot rise above the level of the drains, which means that the base of the foundation and the floor in the basement will be dry.

Such a wall drainage scheme is very often used and works very effectively. But it has a significant drawback. This backfilling the entire sinus between the foundation and the edge of the pit with sand. Given the considerable volume of the sinus, you will have to pay a tidy sum for this filling. But there is a beautiful way out of this situation. In order not to backfill with sand, you can use a special profiled geomembrane, which is a sheet of HDPE or PVD with various additives, which has a relief surface in the form of small truncated cones. When the underground part of the foundation is pasted over with such a membrane, it performs two main functions.

The geomembrane itself is an excellent waterproofing agent. It does not allow moisture to penetrate to the walls of the underground foundation structure.
The relief surface of the membrane ensures that the water that appears on it flows down freely, where it is “intercepted” by the laid drains.

The design of wall drainage using a geomembrane is shown in the following figure.

On the outer wall foundation after measures for and insulation (if necessary), the geomembrane is glued or mechanically fastened with a relief part (pimples) outward. A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed on top of it, which will prevent soil particles from clogging the relief part of the geomembrane. Further organization of drainage is usually carried out: a drain is placed on a layer of sand, covered with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextile. Only backfilling of the sinuses is not done with sand or gravel, but with ordinary soil excavated when digging a pit or clay, which is much cheaper.

Drainage of water, "supporting" the foundation from below, proceeds as in the previous case. But water that has entered the wall from the outside through moistened soil or penetrated into the gap between the foundation and the soil will follow the path of least resistance: seep through the geotextile, flow freely along the relief surface of the geomembrane, pass through the rubble and fall into the drain. Foundations protected in this way will not be threatened for a minimum of 30-50 years. In the basement floors of such houses it will always be dry.

Consider the main stages of creating a wall drainage system at home.

Image	Description of actions
	After the measures for the construction of the foundation, its primary coating, and then rolled waterproofing and insulation, have been carried out, the geomembrane is glued with the relief part outward on the outer wall of the foundation, including its sole, using a special mastic that does not corrode polystyrene foam. The upper part of the membrane should protrude beyond the level of the future backfill by at least 20 cm, and the lower part should reach the very bottom of the foundation, including the sole.
	The joints of most geomembranes have a special lock, which is "snapped" by overlapping one sheet over another, and then tapping with a rubber mallet.
	A geotextile fabric with a density of 150-200 g/m² is attached over the geomembrane. It is better to use not needle-punched, but thermally bonded geotextiles, as it is less prone to clogging. For fixing, dish-shaped dowels are used. The fixing step of the dowels is no more than 1 m horizontally and no more than 2 m vertically. The overlap of adjacent geotextile sheets on each other is at least 10-15 cm. Dish-shaped dowels should fall at the junction.
	In the upper part of the geomembrane and geotextile, it is recommended to use a special mounting strip, which will press both layers to the foundation structure.
	The bottom of the pit from the outside of the foundation is cleaned to the required level. The level can be controlled with a theodolite with a measuring bar, a laser level and a handy wooden bar with marked marks, stretched and set with a tensioned cord using a hydraulic level. You can also “beat off” a horizontal line on the wall and measure the depth with a tape measure.
	Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is wetted with water and rammed mechanically or manually until there are practically no traces left when walking.
	In the designated places, inspection and inspection wells are installed. To do this, it is enough to use mines with a diameter of 340 or 460 mm. Having measured the desired length, they can be cut either with a conventional hacksaw for wood, or with an electric jigsaw, or with a reciprocating saw. Initially, the wells must be cut 20-30 cm more than the estimated length, and later, when designing the landscape, already fit it under it.
	Bottoms are installed on the wells. To do this, in single-layer wells (for example, Wavin), a rubber cuff is placed in the rib of the body, then it is lubricated with soapy water and the bottom is put on. It must go in with force.
	In Russian-made two-layer wells, before installing the cuff, it is necessary to cut a strip of the inner layer with a knife, and then do the same as in the previous case.
	Wells are installed in their intended places. Sites for their installation are compacted and leveled. On their side surfaces, marks are made for the entrance and exit of the centers of drains (taking into account slopes of 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe). We remind you that the entrances and exits of drains must be at least 20 cm from the bottom.
	For the convenience of inserting couplings, it is better to place the wells horizontally and make holes corresponding to the coupling with a crown with a center drill. In the absence of a crown, you can make holes with a jigsaw, but this requires certain skills.
	After that, the edges are cleaned of burrs with a knife or brush.
	The outer rubber cuff of the coupling is placed inside the hole. It should equally go inside the well and stay outside (about 2 cm each).
	The inner surface of the rubber cuff of the coupling is lubricated with soapy water, and then inserted plastic part all the way. The joints of the rubber part of the coupling to the well can be smeared with a waterproof sealant.
	Wells are installed in their places and aligned vertically. Geotextiles are laid out on a sand cushion. Granite crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm or washed gravel with a layer of at least 10 cm is poured on it. In this case, the necessary slopes of the drainage pipes are taken into account. Crushed stone is leveled and compacted.
	Perforated drainage pipes are measured and cut right size. Pipes are inserted into couplings cut into wells after lubricating the cuff with soapy water. Their slope is checked.
	A layer of crushed stone or gravel of at least 20 cm is poured on top of the drains. Then the edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped on top of each other and a 20 cm layer of sand is sprinkled on top.
	In the intended place, a pit is dug for the collector well of the drainage system. The level of its occurrence, of course, must be below the lowest drain in order to receive water from the wall drainage. To this pit, a trench is dug from the lower level of the inspection and inspection well for laying a sewer pipe.
	Shafts with diameters of 460, 695 and even 930 mm can be used as a collector well. A prefabricated well made of reinforced concrete rings can also be equipped. Inserting a sewer pipe into a receiving collector well is done in exactly the same way as drains.
	The sewer pipe leading from the lower wall drainage well to the collector well is laid on a 10 cm sand cushion and sprinkled with sand of at least 10 cm thickness on top. After compacting the sand, the trench is covered with soil.
	The system is checked for functionality. To do this, water is poured into the topmost well in terms of level. After filling the bottom, water should begin to flow through the drains into other wells and, after filling their bottoms, eventually flow into the collector well. There should be no reverse current.
	After checking the performance of the sinuses between the edge of the pit, they are covered with soil. It is preferable to use quarry clay for this, which will create a waterproof lock around the foundation.
	The wells are covered with lids to prevent clogging. Final pruning and installation of covers should be done along with landscaping.

The collection well can be equipped with a check valve, which, even if it overflows, will not allow water to flow back into the drains. And also in the well can be automatic. When the GWL rises to critical values, water will collect in the well. The pump is set up so that when a certain level is exceeded in the well, it will turn on and pump water out of the site or into other containers or reservoirs. Thus, the GWL in the foundation area will always be lower than the laid drains.

It happens that one collector well is used for the wall drainage system and the surface one. Experts do not recommend doing this, since during intense snowmelt or heavy rains, a very large amount of water will be collected in a short time, which will only interfere with inspecting the GWL in the foundation area. Water from precipitation and melted snow is best collected in separate containers and used for irrigation. In case of overflow of storm wells, water from them can be pumped in the same way to another place with a drainage pump.

Video: Wall drainage at home

Ring drainage equipment at home

Annular drainage, unlike wall drainage, is located not close to the foundation structure, but at some distance from it: from 2 to 10 meters or more. In what cases is ring drainage arranged?

If the house has already been built and any intervention in the foundation structure is undesirable.
If the house does not have a basement.
If the house or group of buildings is built on sandy or sandy loamy soils that have good water permeability.
If other types of drainage cannot cope with the seasonal rise of groundwater.

Regardless of the fact that ring drainage is much simpler in practical implementation, it should be treated more seriously than wall drainage. Why?

A very important characteristic is the depth of the drains. In any case, the laying depth must be greater than the depth of the base of the foundation or the level of the basement floor.
The distance from the foundation to the drain is also an important characteristic. The more sandy the soil, the greater the distance should be. And vice versa - the more clay soils, the closer the drains can be located to the foundation.
When calculating the ring foundation, the level of groundwater, its seasonal fluctuations and the direction of their inflow are also taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that it is better to entrust the calculation of the annular drainage to specialists. It would seem that the closer the drain is to the house and the deeper it is laid, the better it will be for the protected structure. It turns out not! Any drainage changes the hydrogeological situation in the foundation area, which is far from always good. The task of drainage is not to completely drain the site, but to lower the GWL to such values that will not interfere with human and plant life. Drainage is a kind of contract with the forces of Mother Nature, and not an attempt to "rewrite" existing laws.

One of the options for the device of the annular drainage system is shown in the figure.

It can be seen that a trench has been dug around the house outside the blind area to such a depth that the upper part of the drainage pipe lies 30-50 cm below the lowest point of the foundation. The trench is lined with geotextiles and the pipe itself is also in a shell of it. The minimum underlying layer of crushed stone should be at least 10 cm. The minimum slope of drains with a diameter of 110-200 mm is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe. The figure shows that the entire trench is covered with rubble. This is quite acceptable and does not contradict anything but common sense, in terms of excessive spending.

The diagram shows that the inspection and control wells are installed through one turn, which is quite acceptable if the drainage pipe is laid in one piece, without any fittings. But still it is better to do them at every turn. This will greatly facilitate the maintenance of the drainage system over time.

An annular drainage system can perfectly "get along" with a system of surface point and linear drainage. In one trench, drains can be laid at the lower level, and sewer pipes leading from trays and storm water inlets to the well for collecting rain and melt water can be laid next to them or on top in a layer of sand. If the path of both one and the other leads to one collector catchment well, then this is generally wonderful, the number of earthworks is reduced significantly. Although, we recall that we recommended collecting these waters separately. They can be collected together in only one case - if all water from precipitation and extracted from the soil is removed (naturally or forcibly) from the site into a collective storm sewer system, gutter or reservoir.

When organizing ring drainage, a trench is first dug to the estimated depth. The width of the trench in the area of its bottom should be at least 40 cm; a certain slope is immediately given to the bottom of the trench, the control of which is most convenient to carry out with a theodolite, and in its absence, a horizontally stretched cord and a measuring rod from improvised means will help.

Washed sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is carefully rammed. It is obvious that it is impossible to do this in a narrow trench in a mechanized way, therefore, a manual rammer is used.

Installation of wells, tie-in couplings, adding crushed granite or gravel, laying and connecting drains is done in exactly the same way as when organizing wall drainage, so there is no point in repeating. The difference is that with ring drainage, it is better to fill the trench after crushed stone and geotextiles not with soil, but with sand. Only the upper fertile layer of soil is poured, about 10-15 cm. Then, already with the landscape equipment of the site, the places for laying drains are taken into account and trees or shrubs with a powerful root system are not planted in these places.

Video: Drainage around the house

Surface point and line drainage equipment

As in all cases, a surface drainage system can only be successfully installed if there is a project or at least a self-made plan. On this plan, it is necessary to take into account everything - from water intake points to a tank where rain and melt water will merge. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of pipelines and trays, the direction of movement along the trays.

The surface drainage system can be installed with an existing blind area, paths made of paving slabs or paving stones. It is possible that one of their parts will have to be intervened, but this still does not require complete dismantling. Consider an example of the installation of a surface drainage system using the example of polymer concrete trays and sand traps (sand traps) and sewer pipes.

To carry out the work you will need a very simple set of tools:

Shovels shovel and bayonet;
Building bubble level length from 60 cm;
Bench hammer;
Rubber hammer for laying tiles or paving stones;
Construction marking cord and a set of stakes made of wood or pieces of reinforcement;
Trowel and spatulas;
Roulette;
Construction knife;
Chisel;
Angle grinder (grinder) with discs of at least 230 mm for stone and metal;
Container for preparation of solutions.

We present the further process in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Given the plan or design of surface drainage, it is necessary to determine the points of water discharge, that is, those places where water collected from the surface will go into the sewer pipeline leading to the drainage well. The depth of this pipeline must be made below the depth of soil freezing, which for most populated climatic zones Russia is 60-80 cm. It is in our interests to minimize the number of discharge points, but to ensure the required drainage capacity.
	Discharge of water into the pipeline must be done either through sand traps or through storm water inlets to ensure the filtering of debris and sand. First of all, it is necessary to provide for their connection using standard shaped elements of external sewage to the pipeline and try on these elements at the installation site.
	It is better to foresee the connection of storm water inlets located under downpipes in advance, even at the stage of arranging wall drainage, so that when snow melts during the thaw and off-season, water flowing from the roofs immediately falls into the underground pipeline and would not freeze in trays, on blind areas and paths.
	If it is not possible to install sand traps, then the sewer pipeline can be connected directly to the trays. For this, polymer concrete trays have special technological holes that allow you to connect a vertical pipeline.
	Some manufacturers have special baskets fixed in the vertical water outlet, which protect the drainage system from clogging.
	Most plastic trays, in addition to a vertical connection, can also have a side connection. But this should be done only when there is confidence in the purity of the water being drained, since it is much more difficult to clean drainage wells and catchment tanks than baskets.
	To install surface drainage elements, you first need to select the soil to the required depth and width. To do this, with an already existing lawn, the turf is cut to the required width, which is defined as the width of the installed element plus 20 cm - 10 cm on each side. It may be necessary to dismantle the curbs and extreme rows of paving slabs or paving stones.
	In depth for the installation of drainage elements, it is necessary to choose the soil by the depth of the element plus 20 cm. Of these, 10 cm for sand or crushed stone preparation, and 10 cm for a concrete base. The soil is removed, the base is cleaned and rammed, and further filling is made of crushed stone of a fraction of 5-20 mm. Then pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled, which will determine the level of the installed trays.
	Surface drainage elements are tried on at the installation site. In this case, one should take into account the direction of the water flow, which is usually indicated on the side surface of the trays.
	Holes are made in the drainage elements for connecting sewer pipes. In plastic trays, this is done with a knife, and in polymer concrete trays with a chisel and a hammer.
	When fitting parts, it may be necessary to cut off part of the tray. Plastic are easily cut with a hacksaw, and polymer concrete with a grinder. Galvanized metal gratings are cut with scissors for metal, and cast-iron gratings are cut with a grinder.
	On the last trays, end caps are installed using a special adhesive-sealant.
	To install surface drainage elements, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes of sand concrete M-300, which are in the assortment of many manufacturers. In a suitable container, a solution is prepared, which should be dense in consistency. Installation is best done from discharge points - sand traps. Concrete is laid out on the prepared base.
	Then it is leveled with a trowel and a sand trap is installed on this pillow.
	Then it is exposed along the previously stretched cord. If necessary, the tray is seated in place with a rubber mallet.
	The correctness of the installation is checked by the cord and by the level.
	Trays and sand traps are set so that when the grate is installed, its plane is 3-5 mm below the surface level. Then the water will flow freely into the trays, the gratings will not be damaged by the wheels of the car.
	The level-mounted sand trap is immediately fixed on the sides concrete mix. The so-called concrete heel is formed.
	Similarly, drainage trays are installed on a concrete base.
	They also align with both cord and level.
	After installation, the joints are covered with a special sealant, which is always offered when buying trays.
	Experienced installers can apply sealant before installing the trays, applying it to the ends even before installation.
	When installing plastic trays in concrete, they can be deformed. Therefore, it is better to install them with installed gratings, which, in order to avoid contamination, are best wrapped with plastic wrap.
	If the surface is flat and has no slopes, then it will be problematic to provide the required slope of the trays. The way out of this situation is to install a cascade of trays of the same width, but different depths.
	After installing all the elements of surface drainage, a concrete heel is formed, and then paving stones or paving slabs are installed in place if they were dismantled. The surface of the paving stones should be 3-5 mm higher than the grate of the drainage tray.
	Between the paving stones and the trays, it is imperative to make a deformation seam. Instead of the recommended rubber cords, you can use a double-folded strip of roofing material and sealant.
	After the concrete has set, after 2-3 days, backfilling of the excavated soil can be done.
	After compacting the soil, the previously removed layer of turf is laid out on top. It must be laid 5-7 cm higher than the rest of the lawn surface, as over time it will compact and settle.
	After flushing the entire surface drainage system and checking its performance, the trays, storm water inlets and sand traps are closed with gratings. It is possible to expose elements to vertical loading only in 7-10 days.

When operating a surface drainage system, it is imperative to periodically clean the storm water inlets and sand traps. If necessary, you can remove the protective grids and rinse the trays themselves with a strong jet of water. Water collected after rains or snowmelt is the most suitable for further use for watering the garden, vegetable garden or lawns. The groundwater collected by a deep drainage system may have a different chemical composition and may not always be used for the same purposes. Therefore, we once again remind and advise our readers to collect groundwater and atmospheric water separately.

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Site deep drainage equipment

We have already described in which cases deep drainage of the site is needed and found out that it is almost always needed in order to forever forget about the problems of stagnant puddles, permanent dirt or the death of various plants that cannot tolerate waterlogged soils. The complexity of deep drainage equipment is that if the site has already been landscaped, trees and shrubs have been planted, there is a well-groomed lawn, then this order will have to be violated at least partially. Therefore, we recommend to immediately organize a deep drainage system on the acquired new construction sites. As in all other cases, the project of such a drainage system must be ordered from specialists. Independent incorrect calculation and execution of the drainage system can lead to the fact that waterlogged places on the site will be adjacent to dry ones.

In areas with a pronounced relief, the drainage system can become a beautiful part of the landscape. For this, organized open channel or a network of channels through which water can freely leave the site. Rainwater from the roof can also be directed into these channels. But readers will certainly agree with the authors that the presence of a large number of channels will bring more inconvenience than benefits from their contemplation. That is why closed-type deep drainage is most often equipped. Opponents of deep drainage may argue that such systems can lead to excessive drainage of fertile soil, which will negatively affect plants. However, any fertile soils have very good and useful property- they retain exactly as much water in their thickness as necessary, and plants growing on soils take from it exactly as much water as is necessary for their root system.

The main guiding document for the organization of the drainage system is a graphic plan of the drainage system, which indicates everything: the location of the collector and storage wells, the cross section of the drainage pipes and their depth, the cross section of the drainage trench and other useful information. An example of a drainage system plan is shown in the figure.

Consider the main stages of creating a deep drainage site.

Image	Process description
	First of all, the site is marked, in which the position of the main elements of the drainage system is transferred from the plan to the terrain. Drainage pipe routes are marked with a stretched cord, which can immediately be pulled either horizontally or with a slope, which should be in each of the sections.
	A pit is dug under the storage drainage well of the required depth. The bottom of the pit is compacted and 10 cm of sand is poured and compacted on it. The body of the well is tried on in place.
	In the direction from the well towards the beginning of the main collector pipe, a trench is dug, the bottom of which is immediately given the desired slope specified in the project, but not less than 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the pipe. The width of the trench in the bottom area is 40 m. The depth depends on the specific project.
	From the collector trench, trenches are dug for drains, which will be connected to the collector pipe. The bottom of the trenches is immediately given the desired slope. The width of the trenches in the bottom area is 40 cm. The depth is according to the project. On clay and loamy soils, the average depth of drains is 0.6-0.8 meters, and on sandy soils - 0.8-1.2 meters.
	The locations of rotary and collector inspection manholes are being prepared.
	After checking the depth and the required slopes, 10 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of all trenches, which is then wetted and compacted manually.
	Geotextile is lined at the bottom of the trenches so that it also goes onto the side walls. Depending on the depth of the trench and the width of the geotextile fabric, it is fixed either on the walls of the trench or on top.
	The wells are installed and tried on in their places, the places where the couplings are inserted are marked. Then the wells are removed and the necessary couplings are cut into them to connect the drains, the bottoms are mounted.
	Wells are installed in their places, leveled. A layer of crushed granite or washed gravel with a fraction of 20-40 mm, 10 cm thick is poured into the trenches. The crushed stone layer is compacted, the necessary slopes are created.
	The necessary sections of drainage pipes are cut off, which are completed with plugs (if necessary). In most cases, drain-beams are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and collectors - 160 mm. Pipes are laid in trenches and connected to well couplings and fittings. Their depth and slopes are checked.
	A 20 cm layer of crushed stone or washed gravel is poured over the drains. After tamping, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextiles previously attached to the walls of the trenches or from above.
	The drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, in various places where drains are laid, a large amount of water is poured into the trenches. Its absorption into the crushed stone layer and flow through the rotary, collector wells and getting into the main catchment well are controlled.
	A layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, at least 20 cm thick. The sand is compacted, and on top of it, the trenches are covered with fertile soil - 15-20 cm.
	Covers are put on the wells.

Even if the deep drainage of the site was done without a project, it is still necessary to draw up, on which to indicate the location of the drains and the depth of their occurrence. This will help in the future when carrying out any excavation work to leave the system intact. If the relief allows, then the catchment wells may not be arranged, and the water collected by drains is immediately sent to sewers, reservoirs or a collective storm sewer system. Any of these steps must be coordinated with the neighbors and the administration of the villages. But the well is still desirable, if only to control the GWL and its seasonal fluctuations.

The collector well for collecting groundwater can be made overflow. When the water level in such wells becomes higher than the overflow pipe, part of the water flows through the sewer pipe into another storage well. Such a system makes it possible to clean water in the storage well, since all the dirt, silt and debris settles in the collector overflow well.

When well-known thinkers, called great ones, whose statements are constantly quoted and cited as examples, put their thoughts on paper, they probably did not even suspect that they were writing about deep drainage. Here are some examples:

The collective image of the thinker, which is known to most people, as Kozma Prutkov said: "Look at the root!". Great phrase talking about deep drainage! If the owner wishes to grow in his area garden trees, then it is simply necessary to know where groundwater lies, since their redundancy in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system has a bad effect on most plants.
A very famous thinker and “generator of wisdom” Oscar Wilde also said, without knowing it, about deep drainage: “The greatest vice in a person is superficiality. Everything that happens in our life has its own deep meaning.
Stanisław Jerzy Lec said the following about depth: “A swamp sometimes gives the impression of depth.” As well as possible, this phrase fits the drainage, since without it the site may well turn into a swamp.

You can cite many more quotes from great people and connect them with drainage, but we will not distract the readers of our portal from the main idea. For the safety of houses and the comfort of their inhabitants, the creation of ideal conditions for the growth of the necessary plants, the arrangement of a cozy landscape, drainage is definitely needed.

Conclusion

It should be noted that residents of most regions of Russia are unspeakably lucky if the issue of drainage is raised. An abundance of water, especially fresh water, is much better than its lack. Residents of arid and desert regions, after reading such an article, would sigh and say: “We would have your problems!” Therefore, we simply must consider ourselves lucky that we live in a country that does not lack fresh water.

As we have already noted, you can always “negotiate” with water using the drainage system. Modern market abundance offers just a gigantic range of various components, allowing you to create a system of any complexity. But in this matter one must be very selective and careful, since the excessive complexity of any system reduces its reliability. Therefore, we again and again recommend ordering a drainage project from specialists. And the independent implementation of the drainage of the site is quite within the power of any good owner, and we hope that our article will help in some way.

Every homeowner understands that drainage around the house is one of the main procedures. The drainage of the house forms a protection against flooding, which will prevent subsequent deformation of the base of the house (foundation). It also excludes the possibility of distortions of windows and doors, and any defects will not appear on the walls.

At first glance, the procedure for creating drainage around the house seems difficult, but it is possible to do it yourself. This article will answer the question: how to make drainage around the house?

What is drainage around the house? This is a design that removes excess moisture from the building. This design can be arranged in different ways. But most often the system is made of pipes. The water goes through the pipes.

According to many people, one blind area around the structure is enough to create an effective catchment. But this is wrong, because professionals strongly recommend creating an entire drainage system that will provide better protection from water.

In total, there are three ways to remove water (drainage):

public method. In this case, open ditches are used, the depth and width of which is 50 centimeters. The drainage depth must be sufficient. This is the easiest system that you can create yourself. But the ditches make the appearance of the site unpleasant. Also, after a certain period of time, the trenches crumble and can no longer be used. Therefore, they must be further strengthened with the help of different trays.
Sleeping method. Ditches that have been dug must be covered with rubble. You can also use broken brick instead of large gravel. Sod is covered from the top of the ditch. The main advantage of this design is its huge operational life. The period increases if you use geosynthetics during installation, namely geotextiles. But there are disadvantages, which are that the structure cannot be technically maintained during use, and the system also has a low level of throughput.
private method. In this situation, the system consists of perforated pipes that are laid inside the ground. This is the most better drainage around the house, but it is difficult to do it yourself, you will have to resort to the help of specialists.

The main types of drainage design

In total, there are several varieties of the drainage system. Let's consider each type separately.

wall construction

The system is created around the base of the structure (foundation). Wall drainage must be installed if the building has a basement or basement. It is necessary to carry out the installation of the wall structure during the arrangement of the foundation of the building, when the foundation pit has not yet been filled up. If the mounting is carried out later, then you will have to perform additional work, which you need to spend time, effort and money.

The laying of the system is carried out along the foundation. Pipes must be removed from the corners of the building to manholes. At the point of the system, which is the lowest, a well is created for the output. In this well, water will be diverted outside the boundaries of the site.

To make additional protection for the foundation of the house, it is necessary to equip a clay castle, which should be located at a distance of 90 centimeters from the building.

Ring or trench design

This design is installed at a distance of two or three meters from the base of the structure. This type of drainage system is used for buildings that do not have basements or basements. Or the building should be located on a clay soil layer.

Also, a clay castle is created between the base of the structure and the drainage structure for additional protection. It is necessary to lay drainage at a depth of 50 centimeters from the foundation point, which is the lowest. Drains should be laid on large gravel.

Preparatory work before installation

Before you start creating drainage around the house, you need to prepare the base of the building:

First, it is necessary to treat the outer part of the foundation with a bitumen-kerosene primer.
Next, you need to apply mastic from bitumen.
Then the reinforced mesh is laid into the bitumen. The cells of the reinforced mesh should be 2 × 2 millimeters.
As soon as the bituminous mastic dries. Its drying time is approximately 24 hours. To close the reinforced mesh, you need to apply an additional layer of coating.

Rules and nuances of creating a structure

The main elements of the system are specially designed drainage pipes. They are made of plastic, and their maximum diameter is one hundred millimeters. If your budget does not allow them to be purchased, then ordinary sewer pipes can be used as their replacement. It is only necessary to select pipes of the required diameter, making holes in them.

It is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the gravel in which the part will be laid. Its diameter should be larger than that of the holes made.

According to the experience of many people, the drainage system around the house can be done independently. To perform this procedure, you must follow the following rules and nuances:

The pipe must be covered with gravel for 30 centimeters. In order to prevent the system from becoming clogged, elements are used that are wrapped in filtration material. Or, instead, geotextiles are laid.
If deep drainage will be located under the road where cars move, then pipes made of metal should be used for the structure, which are connected by couplings to other elements.
In order to freely clean and maintain the building during operation, manholes are installed at key points, as well as every ten meters.

Step-by-step instructions for installing drains

Even at the design stage of the site, it is necessary to consider the drainage system. Such a plan will help determine the exact location of perforated pipes, as well as calculate the right materials and components. Consider a step-by-step instruction:

We carry out marking on the site according to the prepared plan. A drainage scheme around the house should be prepared. It is necessary to identify the highest and lowest point of the earth's surface. This must be known to cover the entire area.
Next, you need to dig ditches of the required depth. The width of the ditch should be such that perforated or sewer pipes and large gravel can fit into it.
Then you need to organize the slope of the structure. Take measurements of the height differences, after which you should set the poles at the required points. At the bottom of the ditch, you need to carefully pour sand until the necessary slope is formed.
The bottom of the ditch must be compacted. After that, it is necessary to fill in the crushed stone by ten centimeters, then the alignment is carried out again. Further, the bottom of the trench must be lined with geotextile, from the top of which a layer of gravel must be laid. You have to control the bias. Next, prepare the recess small size to lay perforated pipes.
Perforated elements are laid on the prepared area, after which they should be tightly connected. Do not forget to check the selected slope of the pipeline. The check is carried out using a rope that is stretched along the moat.
Then produced installation of manholes.
If no filtration material is attached to the pipes, they must be wrapped with geotextile., and fastening is carried out using a polypropylene tape.
The structure is backfilled with coarse gravel. The width of this layer should be 20 centimeters.
Pipes must be brought to the manhole. From it, water will flow into the ditches.
The filtration layer must be wrapped with geotextile. In this case, you need to make a small overlap.

The final stage of the procedure is backfilling the drainage system with river sand. To make everything look aesthetically pleasing, the sand also needs to be compacted.

Manholes

A well-made manhole is the key to an effective drainage system around your structure. A manhole is needed to maintain and clean the drainage structure. Without a well, the system will gradually become clogged and eventually become unusable.

It is possible to purchase a ready-made component on the construction market, or you can create it yourself using a piece of plastic pipe of the required diameter. The manhole should be wide enough so that a person's hand can go down there to clean the drainage system.

At the point of the drainage structure, which is the lowest, a catchment well must be installed. The most popular structures are made of reinforced concrete. The depth of the manhole should be such that the sand at the bottom should not interfere with the water flow. Only sometimes it needs to be cleaned.

Building materials and tools

As with any procedure, construction tools and materials will be needed to create a drainage system. The first construction tool is a shovel, with which ditches are dug. The next main component is plastic pipes that will drain water.

You will need manholes, a specially designed hacksaw for metal elements. We need transport that will carry out the transportation of large gravel, a heat insulator is also needed, namely geotextiles. Pipes are being laid on this heater. And you will need a small amount of sand.

Cost of work

The price depends on the materials that you will use for installation. If you need to equip the drainage system at their summer cottage, then you can use available materials e.g. boards, slates, stones, brick remnants.

If your house is made of brick or wood, then in this case it is necessary to use materials that have a higher price, for example, plastic pipes, metal communications.

The total cost also includes thermal insulation, which must be taken care of. The best heat insulator for drainage is geotextile, if it is not available, then ordinary rags or humus can be used. Thanks to this, the structure will not freeze in the winter season.

Outcome

Well-prepared drainage around the house can provide protection for the building from groundwater which have negative consequences. Drainage around the foundation becomes most necessary when it is necessary to protect the basement from the flood.

Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house comes in various types, so you need to choose the right type that is right for your conditions and soil cover. Prepare a plan for future installation.

Work should preferably be carried out at the stage of building the foundation of the building. During mounting, you must follow a clear algorithm of actions. Each type of drainage uses its own materials. So, for example, if the system is located under the road where vehicles move, metal elements will be needed for installation.

For the garden plot, you can use publicly available building tools and materials. As a heat insulator, it is best to use geosynthetics, namely geotextiles. If this is not possible, then you can use ordinary rags.

Specialists will perform the work without problems and with high quality, observing every rule and nuances, but if you try, you can do everything yourself. You will be satisfied with the result, your room will be comfortable and protected from the negative effects of groundwater. Now you know how to make drainage around the house with your own hands.

For comfortable living, preventing damage and increasing the service life, buildings are equipped with a drainage system. And in some cases, taking into account the climatic conditions and the state of groundwater at the construction sites, it is impossible to do without such work. How to make drainage around a private house, what types of structures are used, as well as the procedure for performing work, we will now consider.

Drainage systems are engineering communications located outside buildings, designed to remove moisture from the foundation or from the site, which can manifest itself as a result of exposure to groundwater, as well as flood water and precipitation.

Conditions under which drainage must be done:

The soil in the building site is characterized by a high content of clayey rocks.
High rainfall in the construction region.
The terrain on the site, as well as its location, contribute to the accumulation of moisture and do not allow it to go beyond it.
High ground water level.
Nearby buildings have heavily buried foundations.

If groundwater is close to the surface for the improvement of the adjacent territory, as well as creating favorable conditions for growing plants, drainage is arranged around the entire site.

Types of systems

Structures are divided according to the method of their installation and the intake of excess water, as well as location options in relation to buildings. Depending on the purpose of the system, the type of foundations of buildings on the site, drainage communications are available in two versions.

1. Directly at the wall of the building - the drainage is mounted if the building has a deep foundation in the ground. This is due to the need to equip a large basement or basement. This design prevents moisture from entering, therefore, flooding of the premises and the subsequent destruction of the building. Installation is carried out below the level of the base of the foundation.

If the drainage system around the house is located at the walls, this does not mean that external waterproofing is not necessary. Preparatory work and installation of drainage systems should be carried out simultaneously with the start of construction. Therefore, when digging a pit or trench, you must immediately make a reserve, according to the width of the intended communications.

If the soil is characterized by a large amount and a high level of groundwater, and the building is located on slab foundation, arrange reservoir drainage in the form of additional bedding of crushed stone. In this case, the moisture under the building will be discharged to the wall drainage system.

2. Indented from the walls - they arrange communications if the buildings stand on a shallowly buried foundation and the composition of the soil does not allow water to quickly absorb and leave. Therefore, the drainage of the house is laid at a shallow depth. As a rule, communications are laid behind the foundation blind area or, depending on the characteristics of the site, at a distance of up to three meters from the building.

According to the installation method, drainage systems for a private house are divided into two types:

Closed - with this method, the storm channels are completely hidden and moisture enters them directly from the ground.
Open - an option when water penetrates into the system not only from the soil, but also flowing down its surface. In this case, the drainage channels can be open or protected by gratings. As a rule, such communications have a shallow occurrence. In addition to removing moisture from buildings, in this way it is possible to make drainage around the site if it is flooded or heavily swamped.

Structural elements and materials

Wells - perform a number of functions:

Collection and disposal of water.
Monitoring the working condition of structures.
Maintenance.
Settling filter.

Depending on the purpose, their diameter can be from 30 centimeters to one meter. For deep drainage, concrete rings or ready-made plastic wells of industrial production are used. You can use plastic pipes of large diameter.

Trays - used for open drainage, they are made of concrete and plastic, and also laid out with brick or stone.
Lattices - for a drain of water and protection of trays from hit of large subjects. They can be made of plastic, concrete or cast iron.
Pipes and connecting elements - use products into which moisture can penetrate through their walls. Usually, a corrugated plastic is used.

If it is not possible to use special pipes (drains), the question arises, how to make a drainage pipe yourself? To do this, you can take asbestos or ordinary plastic pipe with a diameter of 70 to 150 millimeters, depending on the size of the communications and the planned volume of water. Using a drill or a knife, make holes in it, the size of which should not exceed the diameter of the rubble.

Crushed stone - for backfilling and the formation of a drainage layer, material of a large fraction is used, made of hard rock.
Sand - used as backfill and compaction of the bottom of the trench. Pure material of river origin should be used.

For proper operation of communications, each layer of backfill must be at least 15 centimeters.

Geotextiles are used to reduce the ingress of clay deposits and soil into the structure.
Profiled two-layer membrane or geocomposite - the use of a membrane makes it possible to reduce the cost of natural bulk materials and facilitates the installation process.
Waterproofing materials are used when the structure is located directly at buildings, for preparing walls located below ground level and for processing trays if they are made of concrete.
Pumps - if it is not possible to divert water by gravity.

It should be noted that, depending on the relief on the site and the requirements for the method of moisture removal, drainage country house may simultaneously include structural elements that are present in closed and open types of drainage.

Equipment and tools for the production of works

Construction level, for determining the angle of inclination, as well as the upper and lower points. If communications are of short length and do not occupy a significant area, a water level can be used.
Bayonet and shovel, in case large volume works and application possibilities, you can additionally involve an excavator.
Construction wheelbarrow and buckets for the delivery of bulk materials.
Drill - useful if you need to make drains yourself.
Trowel and trough, for preparing the solution.
A set of tools for the bricklayer when it is necessary to perform the installation of bricks or stones.
Roulette.

Materials, as well as tools, should be selected taking into account the structure to be arranged, as well as the working conditions.

When is the best time to install a drainage system

In order to save time, as well as optimize the cost of installing utilities, you should take care of the drainage system in advance and carry out installation in parallel with the main construction work on the construction of the building. For high-quality performance of work, drainage around the house should be carried out in the warm season, during the period of water recession and the least precipitation.

Procedure

To correctly determine what type of drainage around the house to apply on the site, the following points must be taken into account and analyzed:

Relief - what is the difference from the top to the bottom point, as well as the presence of depressions on the surface of the territory being developed.
The depth of the foundation foundations and the level of groundwater.
Soil type.
The possibility and method of removing moisture outside the site.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine exactly where and what structural elements will be located. For this, a drainage scheme around the house is being developed. If you have experience and knowledge in this area, you can develop it yourself, otherwise you can order it from specialists.

The following points should be indicated on the diagram:

The length and depth of the communications in each segment and in general the entire structure.
Places of installation of wells, their purpose.
The top and bottom point, in the design.
Planned direction of moisture movement.
Places of turns and connection options between elements.

General installation rules:

The angle of inclination of the drains should be at least 1 centimeter per 1 running meter.
With a deep location of the structure, the leveling and drainage layer must pass water well.
The drainage well is installed at the lowest point.
Manholes mounted at every turn and at the convergence of drains, and with a large length of communications, in straight sections, they should be located at a distance not exceeding 20 meters.

Stages of installation work

Surface drainage around the house is mounted no closer than the foundation blind area is located.

Marking where the structural elements will be located and pass.
Section of a trench. The depth is calculated taking into account the dimensions of the tray or storm water inlet, as well as taking into account the thickness of the protective grid. In addition, ten centimeters must be added for the construction of a concrete base.
Leveling the slope and compacting the bottom of the trench.
Installation of a concrete base under the tray.
Installation of a storm water inlet or tray.
The device of the well (sand trap), at the lowest point of the structure.
Installation of ratchets on the tray.
Backfilling, gaps between the tray and the soil.

Wall-mounted, closed design option

The first point with the markup is the same as in the case of the surface location. If in a country house the drainage system was not installed initially during construction, then a trench must be dug directly along the plane of the wall, below the level of contact between the foundation and the ground by 30–50 centimeters.

At each corner of the building, places are dug for wells and connected by a trench.
The walls are cleaned of soil and the waterproofing coating is restored, using bituminous mastic.
A leveling layer of sand is poured and compacted. The thickness should be at least ten centimeters.
Geotextile material is being laid, with a margin of 60 centimeters on each side.
Crushed stone is laid, to a height of 10-15 cm.
Drains consisting of pipes are mounted.
Wells are being installed. Their upper level should protrude above the ground surface.
Pipes run into wells. After this, the holes into which the pipes enter must be hermetically sealed.
Crushed stone is poured onto the drains, to a height of up to 20 centimeters.
Close the pipe and crushed stone with the edges of the material and fix them with a tape that is not subject to decay.
The trench is backfilled and levelled.

It is important to control that the slope angle during excavation and leveling of trenches should always be directed towards the bottom point.

Is drainage necessary if the soil is dry and absorbs water well, and the house is not subject to flooding? Here you should know that the terrain and soil composition, as a rule, do not change, but no one is immune from climatic changes, for example, heavy rainfall. This is especially important in the spring when the snow melts. Therefore, it is better to prevent possible troubles.

Many have faced such an unpleasant situation when, after a downpour, it is impossible to go out into the courtyard of a private house or cottage. It is even worse when the entire crop is flooded with rain or melt water. And how to deal with such a scourge? Of course, for this you can also dig ordinary ditches through which water will be drained, but it will still be more acceptable not the easiest way - drainage in a summer cottage or the territory of a private house. But how to arrange it and how difficult it is to do such work with your own hands, now let's try to figure it out.

Read in the article:

Do-it-yourself water drainage methods from home: some practical tips

The issue of draining rain or melt water from the site is very relevant for all owners of houses, summer cottages, and even garages with a cellar or viewing hole. That is why the drainage device is very important. And for sure, it’s not worth explaining once again that without certain knowledge, such work is unlikely to be done. But still, it is not so complicated as to hire professionals for it, which means that there is an opportunity to save money. Now we will figure out how to remove water from the site with our own hands and what methods exist for this. In addition, it makes sense to deal with the prices of both drainage material and the prices for professional services.

According to the type of device, such drainage can be divided into internal, external and reservoir. In this case, both one of them and combined drainage can be used, in which two or three methods are used. To begin with, we will analyze the general rules for arranging each of them:

internal drainage- used for cellars and basements and serves to divert water that has already been absorbed into the soil.
External or open drainage removes water from the site directly during rain, not allowing it to linger on the surface.
Reservoir diversion- It is used almost always in the construction of a house. talking plain language- this is a kind of "pillow" under the building, which absorbs the accumulated water.

Draining a summer cottage is a rather laborious process, but sometimes you can’t do without it. This issue is especially relevant for areas located in lowlands, as well as with a high occurrence of groundwater.

Drainage - what is it? Precise definition and photo examples

To be precise, drainage is a system for draining rain and groundwater from a certain area in order to prevent flooding. Those. its device is necessary in most cases even at the construction stage. But still, finished buildings, around which drainage is not provided, can be protected. The main thing is to think through the whole system in detail, draw up a project and make some efforts to bring it to life.

In order to understand in general terms how the drainage system of a yard or building is arranged, it makes sense to consider a few photo examples.

Of course, the entire algorithm of operation of the drainage system associated with the device cannot be understood by looking only at the photo. This means that there is a need to consider all the nuances of drainage both from the local area, and from the cellar, and other buildings. Well, if you return to the question of why drainage is needed, then you can find a lot of answers to it. But the main function of water drainage, of course, will be to protect the foundation from destruction, and the cellars and yards from flooding.

Outdoor drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to secure the cellar and foundation

Of course, when arranging drainage on summer cottages you can get by with banal ditches. And yet, in our time there is a great variety of material that will help make drainage more aesthetically pleasing and beautiful. Yes, and completely hide the highway from the eyes is quite simple, if necessary. And since the drainage scheme as a whole depends on the purpose of the drained area, it makes sense to deal with the nuances, to understand how the drainage system should be arranged on the site, and what features the drainage from buildings or cellars has.

It's important to know! The blind area around buildings and structures, drainpipes and other similar devices are also part of the drainage, and therefore their role should not be underestimated. On the contrary, improperly organized drains from the roof of a building can significantly impair the removal of water from the local area, nullifying all the efforts of the home master.

So, let's start with the most important, from the point of view of necessity, drainage - around residential buildings.

How to make drainage around the house - practical tips and tricks

The main task before making drainage around the house is to choose the right place for the well, into which rainwater will drain. At the same time, it should be designed in such a way that it does not have to be pumped out periodically. Also, do not forget about the sand traps in the gutters.

In general terms, the work is carried out as follows. A shallow trench is dug around the perimeter of the building, connected to a well. At the same time, it must have a slope that can be measured using the building level. Further, the bottom of the excavated trench is covered with sand and rammed. Gutters are laid inside, which can be both open and closed with a special mesh. It prevents large debris and foliage from entering the drain.

Important advice! How the drainage will function depends on the slope of the gutter and its correctness. Therefore, it must be measured very carefully.

The nuances of drainage at their summer cottage

Such diversion of water is done in order to protect plantings from flooding. It is mainly used in places with swampy soil and where the occurrence of groundwater is quite high. The essence of the device of such drainage is as follows. It is necessary to dig along the trench section, about half a meter deep, into which you will then need to lay perforated pipes. For them, a sand cushion is made on a special fabric. Thus, excess water, again, will fall into the well.

Another way to prevent groundwater from entering the site can also be the installation of gutters around the perimeter. But the most convenient way will be the reservoir drainage device. In this case, gravel of various sizes is poured into the dug trenches, after which they are covered with turf. Today it is the cheapest of all methods of water disposal, and therefore the most common. It should be noted that with all the availability of site drainage systems, few people start such work. And this is a big mistake. After all, the mounted water drainage does not cause inconvenience, while positive qualities she has enough.

Video: how to make site drainage

Drainage of soil around garages and other buildings

How to make drainage in the garage and why it is needed are the most common questions that a home master faces when designing such systems. It must be understood that the removal of groundwater from the premises will not only preserve its foundation. Indeed, for many, the cellar is located in the garage, which means that it is necessary to protect it from flooding. Of course, there is another way out, such as installing a sealed box (caisson), but over time it will rot. Yes, and in the installation, this design is quite complicated.

But even in the absence of a cellar or viewing hole, drainage in the garage will not hurt. After all, in winter, melted snow will drip from the car, which, evaporating, will greatly moisten the air. And if there is a drainage system, the humidity will remain normal.

Drainage in the basements of houses - an excess or a necessity?

Some argue that if there is drainage on the site and around the house, then in the basement of the building it is completely useless. This is a fairly common mistake. Water can penetrate into it and below street drainage. And it’s not worth saying what consequences this can lead to - for sure everyone understands this well.

It is most convenient to carry out drainage at the construction stage, i.e. foundation laying. But even if this was not provided, there is still a way out. It is possible to divert water even in rooms with a concrete floor. We will dwell on the methods of performing such work in more detail a little later.

More details on how to make drainage - the need for the project

A responsible approach to such work should begin at the design stage, which is not surprising. After all, its functionality depends on the thoughtfulness and drawing up of a scheme for the future water drainage. That is why there is a need for careful drafting of the project with exact dimensions, as well as its subsequent strict adherence.

First you need to measure the site and in general terms consider the location of the highways. In this case, it is worth considering both the most flooded areas and the slope of the surfaces. The storm well must be located in the lowest place. Do not forget that at each connection (at the corners) there must be technical wells or cleanings. This is dictated by the need to settle sand and silt to prevent blockages of both the pipes themselves and perforation in them.

Then, before the drainage is properly done on the site, it must be marked out clearly according to the drawn up scheme.

Important advice! If you do not comply with the dimensions of the project, there is a risk that, with severe blockages and the impossibility of cleaning without dismantling, you will have to dig up half of the site in search of drainage lines. It is for this reason that it is worth keeping the sketched diagram.

Do-it-yourself device for a drainage well - how to do it right

To begin with, we will deal with the three main types of this part of the drainage system. He can be:

Lookout- used for visual observation and prevention of blockages;
Cumulative- excess moisture from the site accumulates inside. Such a device requires periodic pumping;
absorbent- water collected from the territory goes into the ground or into a nearby reservoir.

The fact is that before making a drainage well, it is necessary to take into account several factors, such as the slope of the soil, the depth of groundwater, the possibility of diversion into any reservoir, etc. Based on these data, a conclusion is made about the appropriateness of one or another type.

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