How to make a blind area around the house?
At the completion of construction activities for the construction of the building, it seems that the building is completely ready. The desire to do internal improvement and move in faster makes the developer miss some of the nuances. One of these moments is the blind area around the house, which significantly extends the life of the building, protecting the base of the building from moisture.
There is an erroneous opinion that the blind area of a private house is not a necessary element of the structure. However, do not put off its construction until "tomorrow". After all, it is gradually decreasing load bearing capacity at an unprotected foundation, which is deformed as a result of intensive absorption of moisture.
The blind area of the house is one of the important aspects in creating a long and comfortable operation of the house itself.
Used in construction various options edging, performed around the perimeter of the building. To ensure a long service life of the building, reliable protection of the base, it is important, following the technology, to properly make a blind area around the house. Let us dwell in detail on its purpose, parameters and varieties. We will select the materials and tools necessary for the work. Let us examine in detail how, according to construction technology, a blind area is made around the foundation of the building.
Why do you need to make a blind area
The blind area of a private house is a structural element around the building, made with a slope along the perimeter of the foundation. It performs serious functions, the main of which are:
- reliable protection foundations of the building from the effects of precipitation;
- drainage of water along the perimeter of the foundation of the building into the storm sewer;
- reducing the depth of soil freezing around the building, which reduces heat loss;
- prevention of swelling of the soil at a negative temperature;
- prevention of damage to the foundation surface by plant roots;
- ensuring the finished look of the building by creating a transition between the plinth and the ground.
Having finished construction works, it is necessary to complete the edging along the contour of the building before the onset of cold weather, so that the soil layer saturated with moisture does not violate the integrity of the base when freezing.
After heavy rains or snowfalls, or snowmelt, water may accumulate near the building
Design parameters
- The width of the edging, which is more than 60 cm. To ensure ease of movement, it is necessary to expand the track to 100 cm.
- The excess of the width above the roof contour is more than 20 cm. This contributes to the ingress of precipitation to the surface.
- A closed path configuration that completely encircles the building. The foundation around the perimeter must be protected.
- The slope of the surface towards the soil is in the range of 1–10%, which corresponds to a slope of 1 to 10 cm per meter of width. With an increased angle, the probability of slipping during glaciation is high.
- The thickness of the surface layer of concrete pouring around the building, which is 7–10 cm. The parameter depends on the depth of soil freezing, increases to 14 cm at increased loads.
- The device of the border, which makes it difficult to damage the base by the root system of plants.
- Elevation of the edging above zero mark at the level of 50 mm. This makes it difficult for precipitation to flood along the outer edge.
Compliance with regulatory requirements will ensure comfortable conditions operation and durability of the structure.
When creating a drain, creating a blind area is a must
The blind area around the house - the necessary materials and coatings
A blind area is made around the building using various materials:
- concrete pavers. Specialized stores offer material various colors, original configuration. The presence of rounding significantly reduces the likelihood of chipping off the edges. The dimensions of the paving stones allow to perceive the loads associated with the movement. Edging elements improve aesthetic perception. The material is resistant to deep freezing, temperature changes and allows you to quickly complete the masonry with filling the gaps between the elements with sand;
- natural stone. Stone paving stones are made from natural granite of various shades. The material is supplied in the form of chipped or sawn blanks. Products are offered in a standard cubic shape or in the form of a parallelepiped. Laying is carried out similarly to paving stones, cast from concrete, on a previously prepared base up to 50 mm thick from fine gravel or sand. After sealing the seams, the formed stone mass is compacted;
- concrete. The use of concrete mortar is an inexpensive solution that provides watertightness and high strength. For pouring, the soil is prepared and the wooden formwork for concreting is installed. Expansion joints are also made along the contour of the building. A concrete surface is well perceived, decorated with multi-colored pebbles 1–5 cm in size;
To create a strong durable blind area, you will need to correctly select high quality materials and strictly observe the technological aspects of construction
- paving slabs. The ease of use of the plates lies in the possibility of simple replacement of damaged elements. Square-shaped tiles with a side of up to 0.5 m and rectangular products up to 1 m long are made. Along with the standard gray color of products, you can purchase multi-colored material with a smooth or decorative texture. With a multiple of the dimensions of the edging to the width of the plates, trimming can be avoided and work can be done quickly;
- rubble. An easy-to-manufacture option used when groundwater is located close to each other and performed around the building drainage system. Along with crushed stone, expanded clay and ordinary gravel are used. For ease of movement, the layer of material should be carefully compacted with preliminary installation of geotextiles. It hinders the growth of weeds, protects the material from mixing with the soil.
Concreting is widely used. Get your tools ready for the job necessary materials:
- A shovel, a wheelbarrow and buckets, necessary when extracting a layer of soil and transporting materials.
- A device for manual tamping, which allows compaction of the array.
- Building level for level control.
- Materials for waterproofing protection.
- Wood for the manufacture of formwork.
- Steel reinforcement or finished mesh with a square cell side of 10 cm.
- Screened sand.
The blind area should be formed with a slope. So the water will drain from the walls of the building
- Crushed medium size.
- Portland cement brand M300.
- clay.
- Extruded polystyrene foam for insulation.
- Construction cord and pegs for marking.
The blind area of a private house - features and types of structures
Regardless of the type of construction and manufacturing technology, the blind area is a path along the perimeter of the building. Consists of the following layers:
- underlying. The basis is fine gravel, clay or sand. The damping layer forms a compacted base for the outer cover;
- finishing. It is a top coat that protects the foundation from moisture penetration. Provides aesthetic perception.
There are various options for how to make a blind area around the house. The blind areas are divided into the following groups:
- Rigid. Formed by pouring a reinforced concrete mass or asphalting a previously prepared reinforced surface. This is the only design option that allows you to perform insulation. They are distinguished by a long period of operation, equal to the period of use of the building. The disadvantages include the complexity of the arrangement, elevated level costs, the use of tar for asphalting, the need for finishing to provide a decorative effect.
Gravel backfill. Layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm
- Semi-rigid. They are a multi-layer pillow based on crushed stone and sand bedding. For finishing on a compacted surface are installed different kinds tiles, cobblestones, paving stones or porcelain stoneware. Design features do not allow to produce insulation and arrange semi-rigid foundations on heaving soils. Reduced costs and ease of arrangement are associated with the absence of the need for pouring concrete. Simplified construction technology, reduced consumption of materials bring the semi-rigid base to the leading position.
- Soft. The base layer between the soil and the outer material is formed by a cushion consisting of several compacted layers. The outer layer is made of a layer of gravel or small crushed stone, the use of which can significantly reduce the level of costs and time required to complete the work. Despite the limited resource of operation, the soft protection device around the building is widely used with a lack of finances.
How to make a blind area around the house - stages of work
0 ratings
The blind area around the house is a wide "tape" with a hard or bulk coating. But that's just the visible part complex design. Many perceive the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house as a kind of path along the wall, and although such use may be included in the list of functions, the main purpose of the structure is different.
Blind area around the house from paving slabs
Why do you need a blind area
Among the regulatory documents, there is no separate standard, SNiP or a set of rules on how to make a blind area around the house correctly. There are several documents that define its purpose, requirements for the width and angle of inclination, interaction with other elements of the removal of atmospheric water from the site on which the building stands.
According to the regulations, there must be a waterproof pavement around the building, which is created as part of the mandatory water protection measures against local soaking of the soil in the area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation of the house.
That is, we are talking about protecting the soil, not the foundation. To protect the materials of the foundation itself, the foundation is waterproofed, because in addition to atmospheric waters, there are also groundwaters that rise high during the rainy season and during snowmelt (the so-called perch).
And the earth must be protected from getting wet, because under the influence of moisture, many types of soils (clay, loam) lose some of their bearing properties and simply cannot withstand the design load from the building. To prevent soil erosion, they arrange a blind area, which, however, also protects the foundation in parallel, removing part of the load from the waterproofing layer, which protects concrete base at home from getting wet.
In addition, the blind area around the house is an element of the architectural appearance of the building and part of the landscape of the site. There are quite a few ready design solutions, allowing you to mask the blind area, and when using a hard coating, use it as a track.
Beautiful blind area, turning into a path, as part of landscape design
blind area requirement
None normative document there are no requirements that would link the dimensions of the blind area with the roof overhang. Moreover, there are no requirements for exceeding the width of the blind area by 20-30 cm in relation to the projection of the removal of the cornice. When building a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands, you do not need to focus on these numbers.
The regulations provide only two minimum widths. And they depend on the soil:
on sandy - from 70 cm;
on clay - from 100 cm.
This is exactly what is stated in the manual on construction control schemes for supervisory services.
With unorganized drainage, the side roof overhangs of houses up to two floors should be less than 60 cm. If the house is on sandy soil, then the difference in the width of the blind area and the size of the roof overhang can be 10 cm, and not contradict the requirements of the standards.
That is, it turns out that the parameter 20-30 cm is just a statement of the real ratio of two sizes for most cases. But not for everyone.
Video description
Clearly about the requirements for the blind area at home on the video:
If the soils are subsiding, depending on their type, the standards impose other requirements on the width:
I type - more than 1.5 m;
II type - more than 2 m.
And in any case, the blind area should be 40 cm wider than the sinus of the pit.
The slope angle can be in the range of 1-10%, but in the case of subsiding soils, the minimum angle is 3°, which in terms of 5.2%.
The elevation of the outer edge of the blind area above the site should be more than 5 cm.
Types of blind area
Before you properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands or order its construction, you need to decide on the variety. There are three options for the device of the top coating:
Hard cover. Represents a monolithic tape from concrete or asphalt concrete. In the first case, creating a blind area with their own hands, they carry out mandatory reinforcement, in the second it is not required, due to the resistance of asphalt concrete to bending loads.
The arrangement of the base and the filling of the blind area around the house is carried out according to the same technology as for the tracks, but taking into account the obligatory requirement for the slope from the basement.
Protection against water occurs due to the water resistance of both types of concrete. Therefore, it is important that there are no cracks or breaks in the coating on the surface. The second feature is that a gap is needed between the blind area and the base, which compensates for the thermal expansion of the monolithic coating.
Concrete blind area with an expansion gap at the base filled with sealant
Semi-hard coating. They are made from paving slabs, clinker bricks or paving stones. The device and method of laying is carried out by analogy with sidewalks and platforms made of these materials with the obligatory creation of a waterproofing layer as part of the blind area:
waterproof geomembrane, when laying on a dry sand-cement mixture;
concrete monolithic base.
Semi-rigid clinker brick pavement
Soft coverage. The classic option is the arrangement of the upper layer from a compacted layer of dense (waterproof) clay. Many people know how to make a blind area of this type: they used to do it around village houses, and even now such a solution is periodically used as an “economy option” around small country houses, but with a top layer of decorative (colored) gravel. To improve the waterproofing between clay and gravel, you can lay a waterproof film. You need to understand that the blind area is not just a decor, you should not save much on it.
Crushed stone coating as an economical option
Now a new type of soft blind area around the house based on a profiled membrane is gaining popularity. The general workflow here is as follows:
The membrane is laid in a trench with a depth of 25-30 cm.
The bottom of the trench is rammed with a slope from the foundation.
On top of the membrane, a layer of filtering geotextile is rolled out to the wall of the base of the house.
Then a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand is poured, and on top of it - fertile soil, which is sown lawn grass or plant ornamental plants.
This blind area is also called hidden. This is a beautiful solution, but with a significant drawback - it is not recommended to walk on a soft surface. However, you can always additionally arrange a path.
Hidden blind area with ornamental plants
Common mistakes when creating a blind area
Mistakes can occur at any stage. Therefore, it is very important to know how to properly fill the blind area around the house. But even with technology, you need to be careful.
For example, insufficiently compacted backfilling of soil leads to "unplanned" shrinkage and destruction of the integrity of the waterproofing layer or hard surface. The same consequences occur if, due to the negligence of workers, construction debris got into the backfill.
Transverse crack in the blind area, as a result of an error
At the stage of compaction of the bottom of the “trough”, it is necessary to observe the level of the bottom of the pit and its slope. This is one of the important conditions for how to properly make a blind area around the house. Irregularities in the bottom lead to an uneven thickness of the crushed stone layer, a difference in its bearing properties in different areas, which can cause cracks in the concrete. And if the slope of the trench profile is incorrect during the rainy season or snowmelt, the top water will literally drain to the foundation from moisture-saturated soil.
Another mistake is the lack of an expansion joint between the concrete blind area and the basement. At high air temperatures, internal stress forces arise in the concrete near the wall, which lead to the appearance of cracks. The same happens if transverse expansion joints are not laid or cut in the reinforced concrete blind area.
When preparing a concrete solution, it is unacceptable to use sand containing clay and dirty water. This will degrade the quality of the concrete, and reduce the life of the blind area.
If a tap for irrigation is provided in the basement of a private house, then a separate gutter must be laid under it. It is needed to drain water outside the blind area in case of leakage of shut-off valves or leaky hose connection.
Video description
Another mistake when installing the blind area on the video:
The maximum slope angle of the blind area is 10%. And with an organized drainage of water from the roof, trays should be laid under downpipes with a slope of more than 15%. This requirement of the regulations is sometimes ignored.
Determining the thickness of the blind area
On the site of a private house, concrete, prefabricated semi-rigid or soft coating is used. The thickness of the semi-rigid coating is set by the material for the blind area around the house: clinker bricks, tiles or paving stones. But the size of the concrete pavement must be calculated. At least in order to calculate the volume of the solution and the depth of the trench for all layers.
Knowing the standard width of the blind area and the minimum level of elevation of the outer edge above the site, it is possible to calculate the only parameter that is not regulated by the standards - the thickness of the hard coating, taking into account its slope.
The minimum thickness of reinforced concrete is about 70 mm - the thickness of two bars with wire binding plus the thickness of the concrete layer on all sides is more than 30 mm.
Video description
What are the features of a hard and thick blind area on the video:
This size must be multiplied by the slope, once again multiplied by the width of the tape, divided by 100. This will be the height difference between the outer edge and the base. And now the height difference must be added to the thickness of the edge to get the thickness at the base.
If the thickness of the edge is 70 mm, the slope is 5%, the width of the blind area is 1000 mm, then the height of the coating at the base is 120 mm.
Technology for the manufacture of concrete pavement
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a blind area around the house look like this:
Preparation of a trench ("trough") under the blind area. The fertile layer is removed over the entire width (from 20 to 30 cm). Compact the bottom of the trench and form a slope. The area near the foundation is especially carefully rammed with backfill, while adding local soil - the thickness of the compacted layer in this place is at least 15 cm. The depth of the trench should be sufficient for the underground part of the hard coating, the thickness of the pillow (minimum 10 cm, recommended 15 cm) and insulation for the blind area around the house on heaving soils . If the trench after excavation fertile soil turned out to be deeper than the calculated one, then the difference is compensated by backfilling with compaction of either local soil or a layer of clay (the second option is preferable).
Trench under the blind area with a slope from the foundation
Pillow. For weak soils, the creation of a crushed stone base is recommended as the bottom layer. First, they fall asleep, level and ram the crushed stone of the middle fraction (40-70 mm). Then - small gravel (5-10 mm) to fill the voids of the previous layer. When crushed stone is compacted, it is watered. Sand is next poured, which is also leveled, watered and rammed. It is the sand according to the standards that serves as the basis for the blind area. The level of crushed stone preparation should have a maximum deviation of 15 mm per 2 m, sand - 10 mm per 3 m.
Waterproofing. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the sand. It does not serve to protect the soil, but protects the concrete from moisture loss during the period of its maturation. In the regulations, this layer is called "separating". To do this, use a geomembrane or polyethylene film 200 µm thick.
Video description
You can also use welded waterproofing - an example in the video:
Warming. When creating a blind area on heaving soils, the structure is insulated with extruded polystyrene foam. If two layers are laid, then the seams of the upper sheets are shifted relative to the seams of the lower ones.
Formwork. It is made from edged board and bar. At the same time, rails for transverse expansion joints are laid. Usually, these rails are mounted at the design level of the blind area with a given slope angle, and concrete is poured along them, like beacons. The width of the rail is 20 mm, the height in section is more than 25% of the thickness of the blind area. The approximate distance between the seams is calculated by multiplying the factor 25 by the thickness of the concrete at the base. Usually for concrete pavement temperature seams are combined with technological ones (one portion of filling between the rails). The expansion joint at the base is formed from folded strips of roofing material with a total thickness of about 5 mm.
Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area around a concrete house
Reinforcement. The easiest way is to lay a road mesh with a cell of 100x100 mm and a bar diameter of 4 mm. Neighboring cards (strips) are overlapped by one cell (or more) and tied with wire. The distance from the waterproofing or insulation is at least 30 mm. This size must be maintained in relation to all surfaces - the front, along the ends of the edge and relative to the base.
Concreting. Use concrete M200. After pouring, within four hours, the concrete must be covered. And for 14 days - moisturize.
Protection against destruction. To improve wear resistance and surface strength, ironing is carried out. There are two types: dry - after pouring, wet - simultaneously with filling expansion joints with sealant. After removing the slats (14 days after pouring concrete), the seams are filled bituminous mastic with the addition of mineral filler.
Note. As a reinforcement of the surface and giving an attractive decorative look, you can use the technology of stamped concrete.
Stamped concrete from the blind area to the walkway
If the blind area needs repair
If the concrete began to collapse, then, depending on the degree of damage, the recovery technology has the following form:
with a local character (up to 30% of the surface) and narrow cracks - they are poured with cement paste (the proportions of cement and water are 1: 1);
for local repairs and wide cracks - they are embroidered, the visible reinforcement is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, and sealed with a repair polymer cement mortar;
in case of crumbling and delamination, weak areas are cleaned and a cement-sand mortar screed layer is poured around the entire perimeter of the house (with the preliminary installation of a new border and the installation of a reinforcing frame).
When performing each type of repair, the surface of the blind area must be cleaned of dirt and debris, treated with a deep penetration primer.
As a summary. It is important to remember that the blind area is only part of the water protection measures. The most effective blind area in conjunction with storm sewer when water is collected in special receivers and piped away from the foundation.
Storm sewer system
As a result, the foundation will receive reliable protection not only from rain or melted snow, but also from groundwater.
And we hope you got answers to your main questions - how to make a blind area around the house and to whom to entrust it.
0 ratings
The blind area is a simple element that can significantly extend the life of a building. It is also an indispensable part of decorating the local area.
That do-it-yourself blind area around the house looks presentable, matching or matching the materials from which the sidewalk and the entrance to the garage are paved.
Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands and why it is needed at all, it would be useful to list the functions of this structure.
- Protective. A properly built blind area with your own hands protects the foundation from prolonged contact with the foundation. The design provides for the drainage of water directly into the sewer.
- Decorative. The blind area around the house gives the building a complete and solid look.
- Prevention of swelling of the soil. Reducing soil freezing will avoid swelling of the soil. What's the use? There will be no soil shifts around the foundation, which means that its integrity will not be violated.
- Thermal insulation. The blind area of the house significantly reduces the freezing of the soil and the foundation as a whole. Thanks to this, the floors will be warm and the heat will not leave the house.
- Protects the plinth from dirt.
Where you may need a blind area
The blind area must be built not only near each capital building, but also near small buildings. This will create a slope for water to drain and protect the foundation. Its importance is not exaggerated at all, since this structure, made of concrete and bulk materials, has already established itself as a reliable foundation protection for many years. This means that having learned how to properly make a blind area around the house, you will not once again spend money on repairing the basement, and the walls will not crack from constant exposure to moisture.
What are the blind areas
The blind area is built taking into account how you are going to operate it in the future. The first step is to decide whether it will only perform a decorative function or be used as a sidewalk. In the first case, the slope can be made large, and in the second - minimal. Depending on their characteristics, blind areas are of different categories.
Types of blind area:
- multilayer and two-layer;
- cast, prefabricated and bulk;
- soft and hard pads.
The following materials can be used:
- wood;
- tile;
- concrete;
- reinforced concrete slabs;
- bricks;
- cobblestones;
- asphalt.
3 conditions for efficiency
In order for your blind area for the house to be effective in terms of protecting the foundation from excess water, the following conditions must be considered.
- The first and most important rule is that the blind area should be made with a slope towards the site. The type of coverage affects the slope. A reliable concrete blind area should have a slope of at least 5-10 degrees.
- In width, it should exceed the overhang of the roof by 30 centimeters. On heaving soils, it is made no longer than one meter, on sandy soils - at least 0.6 meters.
- The correct blind area is built around the entire house without gaps. Since the settlement at the blind area and at the foundation is different, it is necessary to build an expansion joint, which is covered with sand, filled with bitumen or filled with sealant.
Popular blind area devices
When cladding the facade with panels, siding or stone cladding, the blind area plays an important role, since it is the basis for installing the cladding.
In its absence, a noticeable gap appears between the skin and the ground level. This, probably, should not even be talked about, because no one will finish their facade without a pre-built blind area.
Concrete is the easiest option
The technology involves the creation of 2 layers. The first layer is the underlayment. It is necessary to create an even compacted base. For this, the following materials can be used: fine gravel, clay and sand. The choice of materials for creating the sub-base depends on what materials will be used for the second layer. The coating must be waterproof and resistant to moisture.
- Markup. O required sizes structures discussed above. The earth is removed and compacted around the entire perimeter of the building. The earth is being prepared exactly for the marked width. For a concrete structure, the earth is taken out to a depth of at least 25 cm.
- Formwork. To create the formwork, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is used. A layer of clay is placed on the compacted earth, which is also compacted. After that, a 10-centimeter layer of sand is laid. To make a good seal, it is spilled with water. Now a layer of crushed stone of 60 mm is laid.
- Reinforcement. The use of reinforcing mesh increases the stretching of the blind area in tension and compression. In addition, it will be quite difficult to destroy it - maintainability and vandal resistance increase. Reinforcing mesh is purchased with delivery to the facility. The mesh is usually sold in sheets of 2x6 meters, which is very convenient. You can fold it in half so that the width is 1 meter, this is ideal for reinforcement. You can cut the mesh with an ordinary grinder into fragments 1x2 meters in size. You can also cut into 3 meter pieces, but due to heavy weight it is very inconvenient to carry them. The mesh is mounted in the formwork so that the distance from it to the crushed stone pillow is 2 cm. This is done in order to place the mesh inside the concrete, and not on the pillow. No difficulties should arise, because no matter how you ram the pillow, pebbles will always remain above the surface. The cut fragments of the mesh must be overlapped. Excess wires are bent or cut off by a grinder. Reinforcement is the fastest and easiest step. This is enough for 2 people.
- Pouring concrete. When pouring concrete, the mesh can strongly bend - the concrete will begin to squeeze it out. You will need to quickly tamp the area or, after solidification, start cutting off excess fragments. It should be noted that this is not an easy procedure.
Waterproof option
If you are planning to make a drainage system, then a permeable system is suitable for you. This is the easiest option. Geotextile material is laid in a compacted trench, on which expanded clay, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone are laid.
Geotextile material is used to prevent crushed stone from being pressed into the base. Having chosen such a blind area, you should be prepared for the fact that it will have to be corrected regularly, and walking on it is not very convenient.
The use of paving slabs
To create a solid layer, crushed stone with sand can be used, on top of which the tiles are laid. Here you can not do without the creation of a drainage system. You can also create waterproofing at the base of the blind area with water drained into the sewer.
- We prepare the base. The earth is dug to a depth of tile size + 10 cm. To create the effect of water resistance, clay is used, which is laid at an angle to a height of 10 cm.
- PVC waterproofing layer, laid on top of the clay. Waterproofing is attached to the wall with a metal strip. Next, sand is laid with a layer of 4 centimeters, which is leveled and compacted.
- Only now you can start laying paving slabs. The solution should consist of concrete and water in a ratio of 1:4. The solution should be very thick. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner. After laying, 4 tiles are removed and a mortar is laid in their place with a layer of 4 centimeters. paving slabs set in place using spacers and a hammer.
- After laying all the tiles and removing all the wooden spacers, it is necessary to fill the seams with sand. For the most dense filling with sand, the tile is poured with water. Even a well-made seam during operation must be periodically covered with sand.
Concrete pavement repair
We have already figured out the question of how to make a blind area with our own hands, but what to do with its breakdowns? If damage is found, repairs should be made as soon as possible to prevent the spread of structural failure. Repair should begin with determining the boundaries of the damaged area.
Several significant potholes can be combined into 1 damage. The damaged asphalt pavement is cut to the full depth with wedges and cleaned of dust. The edges, walls and bottom are lubricated with liquefied bitumen and poured with concrete. The new coating is laid a little higher than the old one, which will provide a better connection between the sections.
To repair peeling cracks and potholes, the following are used:
- fine-grained concrete;
- cement-sand mortars;
- sealing pastes;
- rubber-bitumen mastics.
Saving on construction is a difficult stage, where the edge of quality / cost is important, so that in the future it will not go bankrupt for repairs, and at the same time, it is quite comfortable to feel comfortable during the operation of the structure.
The blind area should be built after the foundation, basement, walls, roof have already been finally built. Although, the blind area can be built at almost any stage of construction, after the walls have been laid. But the blind area after all stages of construction will cost the cheapest and least time-consuming, because in this case you save on calculations and errors, and the formwork can also be built from only three sides.
How to make a blind area?
A concrete blind area from 70 cm around the whole house will be the easiest option. For the construction of a high-quality blind area, it is necessary to take into account a number of rules:
- The width of the blind area should be greater than the protruding part of the roof, as a rule, by at least 20 cm. This is done so that moisture dripping from the roof does not deform land plot, which actively affects the quality of the foundation.
- The blind area should be continuous, monolithic around the entire house. Only in this case, the foundation will be safely protected from moisture, which, however, does not exclude waterproofing in any case.
- A wider blind area is also more functional with respect to moisture protection.
- The slope of the blind area will optimally provide a tap at 1.5 degrees. You can do more slope, but remember that it is possible to slip on a steeper slope in winter. The slope is formed at the stage of the underlying layer, it is also possible at the stage of laying the coating.
- The blind area, made in accordance with all the rules, determines the quality, economy and lack of repair for a long time, both the blind area and the basement.
The blind area is two structural layers
- The underlying layer is an even compacted base for the coating. For him, materials such as clay, fine gravel, sand are used. The material of the underlying layer directly depends on the coating material used. Thickness up to 2 cm.
- The coating must perform the task of complete waterproofness and resistance to the damaging effects of water. Use clay, concrete, asphalt, small cobblestone. Layer thickness up to 10 cm.
These layers are necessary for any blind area.
It is necessary to markup for future blind area
In our case, the width of the blind area is 100 cm. The soil along the entire perimeter of the house must be removed to a depth of 20-25cm. As a rule, the soil is removed here at the very beginning of the construction of the house. Dig should be under the entire width of the blind area of 1m. The calculation is also carried out from the material with which the blind area is laid. With respect to the blind area of concrete, a depth of 20-25 cm is needed, with respect to other materials - a different depth.
Some developers recommend immediately after digging a trench around the house, level the floor and walls, and then immediately cover them with herbicides. So that the roots of the plants do not then grow and do not damage the blind area. This is your own choice.
The formwork is made from boards. As a rule, boards 2 cm thick are used for this.
On the soil that we have compacted, a layer of clay a few centimeters should be laid. Then, it is necessary to level the layer and compact it.
A layer of sand is laid with a thickness of 10 cm. It also seals very well. To make compaction easier for yourself, dampen the sand with water. But not abundantly, so that the water does not reach the clay.
Then, there is a layer of rubble in 5-10cm.
In order to strengthen the blind area - reinforce it fiberglass reinforcement with gaps at the joints of 10 cm. Reinforcement makes it possible to achieve stability of concrete not only in compression, but also in tension. Land displacement occurs frequently, so reinforcement is required in any case.
At the junction of the blind area with the walls of the basement, a seam must be made. It's called compensation. Also, this seam is called deformation or temperature. This seam will protect the basement and blind area from soil subsidence and further destruction. In this case, the blind area will go down, but when moving, it will not damage the base, since all the mechanical impact will fall on the seam. The width of such a seam is up to 1.5 cm. It should be made from a mixture of fine gravel and sand, bitumen, mastic, or two layers of roofing material. Someone even uses a tourniquet made of polyethylene foam. The diameter of such a bundle is a quarter larger than the width of the seam. Thus, the jute fits very tightly into the gap for the seam.
Features when placing the tourniquet - it must go into the gap completely, and leave some space on top. Those. there should be a depth free from everything on top, which is equal to half the width of the seam. A piece of plywood will allow you to carry out this process faster.
In our case, a simple sealant was used.
Filling the blind area should be done every 2 meters across the expansion joint. They keep the blind area from breaks in winter period. Wooden slats placed on edge are perfect for these purposes. The surface of the rails should be flush with the surface of the blind area. The slope of the blind area should also be taken into account, and therefore, place the slats either under the slope, or make the slats pre-oblique on the edge, to match the slope. In order to protect wooden inserts from decay, they should be treated with bituminous mastic.
Expansion joints should also be installed in the corners of the house. Those. at the corners of the blind area.
Concrete, in addition to pouring, should also be compacted and leveled. Reiki will help you navigate the height of the concrete pour. It remains to wait until it completely hardens.
Ironing gives the greatest strength to the formwork. Ironing, performed by the wet method, will help the blind area to achieve the greatest water resistance.
The last stage - we cover the concrete surface with a fabric material, gradually, as it dries, wetting the fabric with water. This will help keep the concrete from drying out until it has completely hardened. If you have to lay the blind area during the rainy season, then you can do without moisture.
After 2 weeks, the blind area will be ready.
Concrete pavement repair
With the correct laying of the foundation, basement and blind area of the house, for many years you will not have any problems. But what if they appeared? For example, the blind area is cracked? Yes, even significantly.
Small cracks will be enough to fill the stakes concrete mix in a ratio of 1:1.
Cracks of larger sizes should be cut down to the entire depth of their formation, the recess should be cleaned of dust, dirt and other debris, and filled with liquid mastic (2/3 bitumen, BND-90\130, 10% crushed slag and 15% asbestos material). Then sprinkle the filled cracks with any sand.
If the destruction of the blind area turned out to be even more significant, then it should be fully restored, with the help of a fresh portion of concrete and a couple of simple manipulations. The surface must be cleaned of dirt and primed. For the latter, a cement mortar is suitable. Lay the fresh mixture and level it. Then, it is necessary to prevent the fresh concrete mixture from drying out until it is completely cured. Those. stably moisten it, at the slightest drying, and cover with a film of polyethylene.
Repair of the blind area is best done in the spring or autumn. Need cool weather. During the summer period - you should choose the morning as the most prosperous time for work. Because due to high temperatures, the concrete will expand, and the cracks will decrease. In winter, concrete work is not possible.
Do not forget that the brand of concrete also affects the strength level of the blind area. It is easy to find a 500 brand of cement on sale, which we then divide into the desired proportions. With the highest density of 500 marks, the blind area will turn out to be very strong, and it will really last for decades. If only because it is the 500 grade of cement that is used for the construction of large bridges and tall buildings over 30 floors.
Video instruction for the construction of the blind area
The blind area around the house is a special design that is designed to remove precipitation and protect the foundation from premature destruction. Also, the blind area is necessary in conditions of heaving soil or in areas with high level groundwater, which can undermine the foundation. Let us consider in more detail how the do-it-yourself blind area is performed, as well as what options for its implementation are most effective.
In addition to protecting the foundation, the blind area also performs practical and design functions. Very often it is used as a track, so it must have sufficient hardness and abrasion resistance. When choosing a blind area, you should also consider landscape design and the exterior of the house. The correct blind area around the house helps to favorably emphasize the architectural style of the building, to make the adjacent territory more accurate and practical.
Filling the blind area can be carried out simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. However, it can be made even after graduation. finishing works. If this point is neglected, over time, cracks may appear in the foundation, and the thermal insulation performance of the structure will also decrease. Thus, the role of the blind area at home should not be underestimated. This is one of the main stages of building a house, which directly affects the quality of the building. 
Paving around the house
Before starting the construction of the blind area with your own hands, you need to decide on the materials from which it will be made. Most often, concrete, asphalt, bricks, wood, reinforced concrete slabs or tiles are used for these purposes. The correct blind area around the house should have at least two layers. Upper layer contains the main coating, and the lower one is a pillow of sand, fine gravel, carving or clay.
Ideally, the blind area around the house should be done simultaneously with the foundation. The width of the blind area should be about 80 - 100 cm or 20 - 30 cm more than the eaves. The wider the blind area, the faster the water is drained. In this case, one should remember about the slope, which should be 3 - 7ᵒС. A small drainage groove can be made around the perimeter of the blind area. This will eliminate the stagnation of water during heavy rains or during the melting of snow masses. 
How to make a blind area with your own hands
Making a blind area with your own hands is quite easy. The construction process does not require special knowledge and is carried out in several stages:
- Foundation preparation.
Do-it-yourself installation of a blind area begins with leveling the surface, removing plant roots, removing the top layer of soil with a shovel and cultivating the earth with herbicides. It is necessary to install restrictive boards around the perimeter and make a sand cushion. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the prepared surface, compacted and filled with water. Next, a layer of rubble or brick battle is poured.
- Waterproofing and insulation.
Insulation of the blind area allows you to increase the thermal insulation of the foundation, which is especially important if the house has a cellar or basement. Polystyrene foam, foam glass or foam plastic can act as a heater. The air gap between the concrete layer and the ground can reach 15 cm. The blind area is waterproofed using PVC film, bitumen or roofing material. 
- Installation of temperature cuts.
Temperature cuts can be made using storm trays or flat slate. Between the wall and the blind area, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint by placing roofing material, sealant or bitumen in it.
- Pouring concrete.
Concrete for the blind area can be made by combining 0.5 shares of water, 1 share of cement, 3 shares of sand and 4 shares of crushed stone. Cement is better to take brand M-300. Filling is carried out carefully within the bounding boards.
- Ironing.
After 15 - 20 minutes after pouring the solution, the surface is sprinkled with dry cement and smoothed with a spatula. Thanks to this technique, the blind area is stronger, smoother and more moisture resistant.
The blind area around the house can be made of concrete slabs. As in the first option, the base is prepared for this, after which the finished slabs are laid out, and bitumen is poured. Also recently, profiled membranes have become increasingly popular, which are placed immediately on the ground, covered with crushed stone, sand, after which any coating is installed.
Alternative blind area at home
The most popular option in our country is a concrete blind area 15 cm thick. If earlier this type of blind area was the most affordable, then in our time there is a wide variety building materials, insulation and waterproofing films, with the help of which the cost of the blind area around the house can be significantly reduced. Consider several alternative options for mounting the blind area with your own hands.
Soft blind area for difficult soils
Soft blind area is one of the most simple options blind area device, which can be used for heaving soils. It is carried out in several stages.
Blind area with rubemast
Rubemast is an inexpensive waterproofing material made on the basis of fiberglass or fiberglass with bituminous impregnation. With the help of rubemast, you can build a high-quality blind area, adhering to the following action plan:
Geotextile blind area to protect against weeds
Installation of a blind area from geotextiles is carried out in several stages:
Building a blind area in Finnish
This type of blind area is widely used in the construction of Finnish houses. It is fundamentally different from the technologies familiar in our area and is carried out according to the following principle:
- A corrugated pipe with holes is laid around the perimeter of the house.
- Gravel is poured over the pipe, foam plastic is overlapped and covered with soil.
- Next, the pipe is connected to the drain wells.
- At a distance of about 40 cm from the walls of the building, crushed stone and decorative pebbles are poured.
The variant of the Finnish blind area is quite effective, drains water well and prevents the foundation from freezing.
Russian blind area - cheap and cheerful
This version of the blind area is very unusual and was invented by Russian craftsmen. It is carried out using glass bottles in several stages:
- A thin layer of concrete is poured onto a small sand cushion.
- Next are the usual glass bottles and the next layer of concrete is poured.
- After that, reinforcement is performed, and the next layer is poured concrete blind area. If necessary, the surface is ironed, i. sprinkled with dry cement.
The advantage of this technique is the absence of expansion joints and low consumption of concrete. In addition, the bottles leave an air gap in the blind area, increasing its thermal insulation without additional insulation.
In general, there are quite a few options for the execution of the blind area around the house. If desired, it can be made of different heights, decorated with natural or artificial stone, tiles, covered with pebbles or gravel. 
Video blind area device
It is popularly told about formwork devices and pouring the blind area.
How to understand: will the kitten be fluffy?
What kind of light alcohol can be drunk for pregnant women: the consequences of drinking
Why do the legs swell in the ankles and ankles of the feet in pregnant women: causes and methods of treatment
The wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle: scandalous and secret details of the marriage (photo) The future marriage of Prince Harry year NTV
How to close white plums for the winter