We raise the floor on the loggia without leveling the floor. Leveling the floor on the balcony and loggia: tips and tricks

  • 23.06.2020

Quite often, apartment owners adapt the balcony as an additional room. Naturally, in this case, it is necessary to carry out a series of operations in order to give the loggia a more residential look. In addition to insulation and finishing, it is also necessary to level the floor. As a rule, the foundation in such rooms is in a far from ideal condition, so it is rarely possible to do without this operation.

There are two ways to level the floor on the balcony - using a concrete screed or using a log device. Let's consider both methods in more detail.

For leveling the floor on the balcony using a screed device you will need a primer, building level, tape measure, pencil, guides), a rule or rail, a wide metal spatula, a dry mix for leveling, a container for mixing the solution.

After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, you can get to work.

Foundation preparation

Initially, it is necessary to remove all things from the balcony, clean the base from dirt and dust. You should also check the condition of the floor. If there are weak areas, destruction of materials, then they should be cleaned. Strong cracks and chips are repaired cement mortar.

The composition must be applied to the entire surface of the floor with a brush. The use of a primer will provide more reliable adhesion of other materials to the surface, protect against various negative influences. environment. The surface is left until the composition is completely dry (drying time is indicated on the package).

In order for the base to be even, it is necessary to determine the so-called " zero mark". According to it, the height of pouring the concrete screed will be determined. To determine the height, choose the most high place On the floor. According to the value obtained, the corresponding points are plotted along the entire perimeter. To mark them evenly, it is necessary to use a laser or bubble building level. This stage is very importance, since the evenness of the screed obtained later largely depends on the correct marking.

Installation of beacons

After determining the height level of the screed, guides (or beacons) should be installed. They will be further aligned. The guides are attached to the solution. Lighthouses should be placed in the transverse direction (in width) in increments of approximately 50-60 cm.

Before proceeding to further work, it is worth waiting until the solution on which the guides are attached grabs.

For pouring, you can use a cement-sand or concrete mortar. The mixture is poured between the beacons, and then leveled with a rule or rail. Thus, the entire surface is filled. You need to align with short movements, holding the working tool with a little pressure. You need to work until the screed is completely flush with the beacons. It is recommended to use a large metal spatula to obtain a perfect surface.

After that, the screed is left to dry completely. This may take up to several weeks.

Leveling concrete floor

You can also use the log device to level the floor on the balcony. This method is quite easy to perform on your own, and the production time is much shorter compared to the creation of concrete or cement-sand screed. To carry out the process, you will need plywood (it is better to take a thickness of 20 mm), a drill or a screwdriver, a puncher, a wooden beam with a section of 40x40 mm or 30x40 mm, a hacksaw or a hand circular saw, a building level, tape measure, pencil, wood screws and dowels .

Walkthrough. Leveling the floor on the loggia along the logs

  1. Foundation preparation. All dirt and dust should be removed. The surface can be additionally treated with a primer, which will protect the surface from destruction and the influence of negative environmental factors.
  2. Determining the level of the leveled base. The process is carried out similarly to the above algorithm: the most high point, according to which marks are made building level.
  3. Waterproofing installation. It is recommended to lay waterproofing between the lags. It can be films, or liquid mastic. Mastic is applied to the surface with a brush. The film is attached with adhesive tape.
  4. Log installation. Logs are installed in increments of 50 cm. The height of the crate must correspond to the marks made. For an even location in low places, bars are placed under the logs. The accuracy of the installation must be constantly checked using the building level. The crate is attached to the base with dowels. Moreover, the deeper the fasteners are installed, the more reliably the bars will hold. Therefore, it is recommended to choose dowels with a length of 80 mm. In order for the crate to serve for a long time, it is recommended to pre-treat the bars with a special protective impregnation. She will provide reliable protection from negative environmental influences.
  5. Plywood laying. Plywood is laid on the crate and attached to it with wood screws (it is recommended to choose fasteners 65 mm long). Hats should be drowned in the thickness of the material. As a rule, sheets need to be cut. For this, the width of the balcony is measured, which is then deposited on plywood. After that, the sheets are cut according to the marks made with a hacksaw for wood or circular saw. When laying, it is necessary to provide a technological gap of 3 cm. Plywood can be replaced with chipboard or OSB (also 20 mm thick). OSB and plywood are of higher quality and more reliable, so it is recommended to choose them.

In some cases, the balcony needs to be insulated. In this case, it is necessary to provide for laying thermal insulation material. Can be used as a heater various materials: Styrofoam, mineral wool, bulk materials (expanded clay), polyethylene foam, etc. It is best to choose foam. It has excellent sound and heat insulation properties, is resistant to various environmental influences, including moisture, is durable, inexpensive, and easy to install.

When insulating the floor, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a waterproofing layer(film or special mastic). In this case, it is necessary to provide for the entry of the material onto the wall to a height of approximately 7-10 cm.

Next, the heater is installed. The fixing method depends on the type of thermal insulation material. The insulation must be laid tightly to each other and to the logs (with the second method of leveling the floor). Joints are recommended to be treated with mastic. Next, a vapor barrier layer is provided. This stage depends on the type of insulation. For example, when using foam, a vapor barrier device is optional.

The final stage is the device of the leveling layer: screed or plywood. Further, the floor on the balcony can be finished with decorative material.

Also, for the insulation of the balcony, it is possible to provide for the installation of the "warm floor" system. This procedure is carried out if the loggia will be used as a room for permanent residence.

Thus, there are two ways to level the floor on the balcony. Each of the methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of a concrete screed is to obtain a strong and durable foundation. This floor will last a very long time. However, this will be ensured if the technology is done correctly. In addition, the arrangement of a cement-sand or concrete screed may require long time to dry. It is not recommended to use this method alignment with wooden floors. Filling the screed can not be done when negative temperature environment.

Alignment by lags is characterized by simplicity and fast speed of the process. And even if something was not done quite right, the defect is easy to fix. When installing the floor on the logs, normal air circulation is ensured, and various communications can be laid under the base. However, compared with a screed, such a base may not last so long. In addition, the strength is an order of magnitude lower than the screed.

What hostess of the apartment will refuse an additional, albeit small, room, equipped from a balcony or loggia? But in order for the space to be used wisely, first you need to make sure that the floor in the future additional office or cozy winter garden fairly leveled. If you see that due to seasonal changes in the atmosphere, precipitation or low-quality materials appearance the floor on the balcony is slightly deformed, you should think about how to fix this situation. Of course, you can resort to the help of a construction team, but this is an additional cost. It is more expedient to do it yourself, it is only important to know how to level the floor on the balcony and loggia, following all the rules.

Leveling the floor on the balcony and loggia allows you to additionally insulate the space, lay down a solid foundation, and during operation, do not worry about the possible deformation of the furniture.

Preparatory stage

  1. To begin with, it is worth freeing the balcony from furniture, cleaning the surface and applying a deep penetration primer.
  2. Then it is worth designating the level of the floor by putting a "zero mark". On its basis, measurements of the thickness and the level at which the floor screed will be carried out will be carried out in the future.

This stage is important, the final appearance of the floors and the entire floor covering depends on its quality.

How to put a "zero mark"

During the operation of this device, professional skills will be required, otherwise inaccuracies in the calculations may appear due to the "human factor".

Before starting work with the hydraulic level, you need to make sure that there are no bubbles, otherwise the readings will be incorrect. It is better to work with the hydraulic level together: it is better to install one flask against the wall at a distance of a meter from the floor and draw a sign on the wall - this is the “zero mark”.

At the opposite end of the level, you need to put the next mark on the wall only after the liquid in the flask has completely calmed down. The main thing is not to move the first mark, but to carry out all operations only with the second flask. When you are done walking around the perimeter of the room with the flask, connect all the marks with a single line.

The liquid level in the first flask should always be at the “zero mark”, and the other end can be transferred for marking.

There is no need to be afraid of the high cost of this tool - from the moment you start using it, you will understand that these costs were justified. This device is simply irreplaceable in repair.

The device must be installed in the middle of the room and turned on. A light beam of light will immediately show the boundary from which further work will need to be carried out. The laser level can be used for any construction works that are associated with flat surfaces.

Normal building level

An alternative to an expensive laser level is a conventional building level set on a pre-aligned bar. Initially, you need to put a mark on the wall - this will be the starting point to which you need to attach the prepared bar. Marks must be placed along the entire length of the tool - all actions must be repeated until the marks are connected at the starting point. But when using this method, there is a high probability of errors, so it is better to use it as a last resort.

Installation of beacons

When you have a “zero” mark, you need to mark using a tape measure along all the walls, where the highest and most low level. Considering the thickness of the intended floor covering, set the mark for "clean floor". This mark shows the line of the future floor of the balcony or loggia.

When calculating the thickness of the floor covering, be sure to take into account all the components:

  • flooring;
  • the total amount of adhesive, substrates, etc.;
  • screed level;
  • the position of the floor (height difference you defined).

It is important to carry out these calculations in order to minimize the height differences that may occur. Based on these indicators, mark the highest point of the lighthouses along the entire perimeter and begin to set them up. The total coating layer at the highest point must be at least 3 cm.

Pulling and securing the rope

The next step is to fix the rope between two opposite marks. If the rope crosses, it will allow you to notice the places where it will come into contact with the floor. When, after the work done, you see such areas, the estimated level will need to be raised by 2-3 centimeters.

As beacons, you can use a drywall profile - it should be placed at a distance of 70 cm - so all the beacons will coincide with the points on the walls. For greater confidence in the result, the profile can be fixed with self-tapping screws or fixed with a mortar.

As soon as the screed dries, the narrow profile can be removed, and the screed solution can be poured from the resulting recesses.

Filling the screed

After installing the beacons, you can additionally install a damper tape, and then fill the floor with a cement-sand mixture. To increase the setting speed of the solution, alabaster can be added there. The mixture should be laid in even proportions between the profiles and leveled. Instead of the latter, any aligned rail can be used. The finished mixture should be smeared on the floor until it is aligned with the beacons around the entire perimeter.

If you use a cement-sand mixture to level the floor throughout the apartment with large differences in the upper point of the floor, there will be a significant load on the floors, so it is better to consider another material.

Leveling the floor with a log - an alternative to a concrete screed

This process is quite within the power of even novice craftsmen - it is necessary to make a crate, and boards are placed on top. Thanks to the crate, air exchange is maintained and the life of the floor covering is extended.

After determining the level of the future floor, production logs are installed at a distance of up to 50 cm. Coniferous beams can also be used as logs right size. They put under the lags wooden bars, and between them install parts of the roofing material to improve waterproofing. The logs are fixed to the floor using anchors, and then plywood sheets are laid on the surface using self-tapping screws.

Make sure that the logs are always installed horizontally by constantly moving the bars.

Properly done floor leveling on the loggia and balcony provides much more opportunities for the rational use of this space, so you should approach the leveling process with all care.


It is enough to figure out how to level the floor on the balcony in order to get at your disposal a few extra square meters, which can be used in a small apartment with great benefits.

A big success can be considered the presence of a balcony in the apartment. With the right approach to its arrangement, it can become additional room, in which it is easy to make an office, a modest home workshop or a small greenhouse.

Home workshop on the balcony

Of course, in order to bring such plans to life, you will have to insulate the balcony, make it good repair. But before that, you should take care of leveling the floor base. On old loggias and balconies, as a rule, it is indented with numerous cracks. And in new buildings, the floors are almost never perfectly even. Such are the realities of domestic housing construction.

You can now level the floor on the balcony different ways. Choice specific methodology depends on what will be the functional purpose of the updated loggia. Usually do-it-yourself leveling of balcony bases is done with a screed (wet or dry) or plywood coating and logs.

On the balconies open type(non-glazed and unheated structures) the floor base is most often leveled with a screed. When arranging it, it should be remembered that the floor must be done with a slight slope. Then, during the melting of snow or precipitation, all the water will drain, and not remain on the open loggia. The main thing here is not to overdo it. If you make too steep a slope, standing on such a surface will be very uncomfortable.

Before leveling the floors with concrete, the old coating must be dismantled. Perform this procedure as carefully as possible using a puncher.

Removing old flooring

In no case should damage to the balcony slab be allowed.

Note that the puncher is used to remove the old screed and on covered balconies. It is imperative to dismantle it, since in this case the new coating can seriously increase the load on the slab, and this often leads to the collapse of the loggia.

When the balcony railing and its floor base do not have a rigid connection with each other, the slope of the screed is taken within 4–5 °. But if there is a curb on the end of the loggia slab, or if the floor and the fence are a single structure, it will be necessary to equip a special drain for water with your own hands. It is easy to do in two ways:

  • install a PVC pipe on a convenient section of the screed and make a slope towards it;
  • lay a small groove along the wall, and punch a hole at its end through which water will flow.

Before all these works, the floor should be well cleaned, all debris should be swept off it, and then all gaps and cracks on the base should be sealed with gypsum or cement mortar (a mixture of the selected material with water), and then treated with a primer. After that, proceed to the installation. It is done if the balcony is open. Monolithic loggias do not require the installation of a formwork structure. Be sure to caulk the joints between the base and the installed formwork (then concrete mix won't run down).

We proceed directly to leveling the floors. The procedure for doing the work with your own hands is as follows:

  1. Place the reinforcement grid (make it from any steel wire of small thickness) on the floor base. Mount special beacons along the longest wall of the loggia. They are made from metal rods. Installation of beacons is carried out in increments of about half a meter. Their installation is carried out smoothly (use a laser or conventional building level). The level of the screed you want to fill must match the top ends of the beacons. For most balconies in standard city apartments, two beacons are usually mounted. This is quite enough. Beacons are fixed with plaster or cement mixture. However, they must be strictly horizontal. The mortar for fastening beacons will dry for about 3 hours.
  2. Make a mixture of and cement. The recommended ratio of these components is 3 to 1. Then add water to the resulting composition. As a rule, 2 liters of liquid per 10 kg of cement-sand mixture are sufficient. In practice, you need to ensure that the solution is similar to sour cream of high density. It is most convenient to mix the components with a mixer worn on a drill. If there are no such tools, mix the mortar with your own hands using a trowel. If desired, a small amount of expanded clay chips can be added to the resulting composition. It will improve the adhesion of the mortar and make the floor base a little warmer.
  3. Spread the cement-sand mixture in parts on the floor. It should cover the mounted beacons by 4–5 cm. Leveling the layer is done by the rule.

Leveling floors with a wet screed

So you made a screed with your own hands. Now you need to patiently wait until the solution is completely dry. It is recommended to spray the flooded surface with water every day. This procedure will give the screed additional strength. And in very dry and hot weather, it is advisable to cover the concrete layer with burlap or plastic wrap. This is done in order to protect the screed from cracking.

Formwork is dismantled 36–48 hours after pouring the screed. Beacons are allowed to be left in solution. Complete drying of the concrete is observed after a couple of weeks. After that, level the surface made with a wooden or foam float, and then you can proceed with the installation of tiles, laminated boards, linoleum or other floor covering on the loggia.

The implementation of such a screed on the loggia is very simple. Anyone can make it with their own hands home master. You will need to purchase metal profiles(in the form of the letter P), universal self-tapping screws, slag (replacement - coarse sand or expanded clay), waterproofing film (made of polyethylene), floor slabs (OSB, GVL or GSP), masking tape (or better construction tape), rule , polyethylene edging tape and a grater.

The scheme for performing the screed according to the dry method is given below:

  1. Clean the balcony, sweep away dust and debris, seal existing cracks with cement mortar, mounting foam blow out the gaps between the walls and the stove.
  2. Place the edge tape around the perimeter of the balcony. It will be an excellent sound insulator.
  3. You protect the base of the floor from moisture - lay a polyethylene film on a concrete slab, wind it 10 centimeters onto the wall surfaces, and fasten the edges of the waterproofing material with tape (adhesive tape).
  4. Mount the profiles (they play the role of beacons) with a wide part up along the walls. It is not necessary to fix these products. But the horizontal position of their location must be controlled.
  5. Fall asleep between the beacons 5–7 cm of expanded clay (sand, slag), carefully level the material with the rule, and then additionally pass over the surface with a grater. At this stage, you need to lay paths on the loggia in order to move along it without any problems. They are made simply - place sheets of GVL or plywood on the floor.

Dry floor screed

The next step is the installation of plates. It is advisable to purchase such products that have special grooves for laying. This need is connected with the fact that the plates are not attached to the base of the floor. They need to be pressed as tightly as possible to the wall surfaces so that they can withstand serious loads without problems. In the grooves, the joints between the plates are treated with glue for construction work and additionally fastened every 7–10 cm with self-tapping screws.

Now all you have to do is cut off the parts of the film and edging tape that rise above the floor base. Dry screed is ready. Believe me, it is as strong and reliable as wet.

Wooden logs make it possible to level the floor, raise it to the required height, and also insulate it with high quality. To perform work, you need to stock up on plywood, ordinary thin boards, GSP or GVL slabs, self-tapping screws, mineral wool, expanded clay or other heat insulator, dowels. Then do everything according to the instructions:

  1. Clean the floor on the balcony from debris.
  2. Waterproof the base with a polyethylene film or modern material penofol (do not forget to put the edges of the material on the walls).
  3. Mount on the insulation layer wooden logs. The optimal cross section of such bars is 5 by 5 cm. If the base needs to be raised higher, use products with large sizes. You can also fasten several logs in height using self-tapping screws for this purpose. The bars are connected to the floor base every 0.5 m with dowels. The distance between the walls of the balcony and the outermost wood products is usually taken no more than 10 cm.
  4. Place the selected insulation between the lags. As a heat-insulating material for open structures, it is recommended to use expanded clay and foam plastic. Basalt wool and glass wool, popular among home craftsmen, are best used on closed balconies.

Leveling the floor with wooden logs

When laying the heat insulator, try not to leave gaps between the pieces of material. They cause cold bridges.

The final stage of work is the finishing of the constructed leveling structure. Do this operation from the materials that you like the most. Most commonly used OSB boards and GVL. Well, lay terrace boards, linoleum, carpet, tiles or laminated products on the rough surface.

Congratulations on a perfectly flat floor base on your balcony!

The problem of how to level the floor on the balcony often arises when an attempt is made to transfer the balcony or loggia into the category of living space. In principle, such an operation differs little from a similar event in any other room, but some important specific features must be taken into account. Such work can be done in a variety of ways. And, most importantly, with your own hands. At the same time, with a lack of experience, it is better to consult a specialist.

What is the specifics of the problem

What is the difference between a balcony and other rooms in the apartment? It is not originally intended as living space, and therefore does not have the necessary thermal insulation. His gender is nothing but reinforced concrete slab, which has a connection with the load-bearing wall only on one side, while the entire area outside the apartment forms a console. Of course, the calculation of the strength of the balcony provides for the possibility of people staying on it and storing things, but all the same, the mechanical strength of the floor slab cannot be equated with the parameters of the floor. In other words, large volumes of heavy building materials such as concrete can create excessive and dangerous overloads.

The floor on the balcony is arranged with your own hands, taking into account the purpose of the architectural detail. If the whole range of measures is taken to insulate it and turn it into a full-fledged living room, then the floor must also have all the necessary warmth and appropriate design and smoothness. When the balcony remains a place with a person periodically going out to it (for example, for a smoke break), leveling the floor is just repairing a worn, cracked coating. Under such conditions, we can talk about lower quality requirements, but more serious ones - to influencing factors: temperature difference, high humidity(up to water leakage), exposure to low temperature, high.

A specific parameter is the floor level on the balcony itself. It often has little to do with the floor in the adjacent living room, and therefore is often significantly below its level. Taking into account such specifics, before leveling the balcony floor, it is necessary to decide whether and how much to raise it. The choice of design largely depends on the height of the floor covering.


An example of a balcony floor plan

Which method and material to use must be decided taking into account a number of parameters. So, a concrete screed has a large specific gravity and significantly makes the structure heavier, therefore it is considered that with a lifting height of more than 5-6 cm, it is dangerous to use it. With this in mind, a concrete screed is used where the layer thickness is 4-5 cm. With a high floor level rise, the lag system is more often used. A concrete screed does not provide quality even with a layer thickness of less than 3 cm, because. high risk of cracking. For small thicknesses, self-leveling (self-levelling) mixtures are recommended.

On open balconies where precipitation is possible, the use of plywood or chipboard is not practical. Preference is given to various screeds, ceramic tiles, tile wood materials with moisture resistant filling (OSB). Finally, the choice of material for leveling the floor also depends on the type of finish coating:, carpet,.

How a concrete screed is made

To perform a concrete screed, it is desirable to have your own tool. You will need:

  • trowel;
  • putty knife;
  • Master OK;
  • metal rule;
  • paint brush;
  • construction mixer for mixing mortar;
  • solution container;
  • measuring bucket;
  • construction level;
  • roulette;
  • metal ruler;
  • roller

The simplest and most common way to level the floor is a concrete screed, i.e. pouring sand-cement mortar over the entire floor area. First, the floor height is marked, with the first mark being placed in the highest corner. Then, using the level, horizontal lines are drawn around the entire perimeter of the balcony. If the floor is arranged on an open-type balcony, then a slight slope towards the street is provided - for the outflow of trapped sedimentary water (a slope of about 8-10 mm is considered sufficient for each meter of floor width).


Work begins with a thorough cleaning concrete slab. In the presence of cracks, putty is used to seal them. Then a thin layer of primer is applied, which will improve the adhesion of the concrete mortar and the base.

Residents of modern panel houses know firsthand what an insufficient area of ​​an apartment is. Most people strive for more comfortable living, that is, to increase living space. This can be done through the use of a balcony or loggia. But in most cases, these rooms are cold and not suitable for organizing living space. To make them more comfortable, it is necessary to carry out finishing work, the main of which is the arrangement of the floor on the balcony with your own hands.

How to choose flooring materials

There are the following options for arranging the floor on the balcony, each of which involves the use of special building materials:



Balcony floor made of plywood with insulation

In addition to the above options, it is possible to install a floor heating system. This is the most expensive type of flooring, but it also provides comfortable temperature inside the balcony at any time of the year. Depending on budget and cost utilities, choose water or electric option equipment. In this case, the floors on the balcony must be pre-prepared. That is, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing, insulation, leveling.

Before you make the floor on the balcony with your own hands, you need to purchase necessary materials. If the budget for repairs is small, it is recommended to opt for options such as screed and tiles, concrete base with laminate or linoleum. You can also make insulated wood flooring. If the budget is quite large, then you can not deny yourself anything and equip a balcony according to last word technology.

Underfloor heating system - the most expensive type of floor arrangement on the balcony

On a note! The use of tiles is possible only if the surface is pre-levelled.

Preparatory work

After it has been decided what to make the floor on the balcony from, you can proceed to preparatory work. First of all, it is necessary to remove from the balcony all the furniture, things stored there and everything that can interfere repair work. If there is any flooring or old coating on the floor that has become unusable, it should be removed. Then the plate should be cleaned of fungus and other contaminants, and then covered with a special antiseptic composition to prevent the development of harmful microorganisms.


Dismantling the old flooring on the balcony

Next, you need to check the coating for evenness. To do this, you can use the building level, which is applied in different places throughout the floor area. You can also pre-pour water on the floor to find out uneven places, and then check the level deviation. Most flooring options require screeding. this work includes the following operations:

  1. Installation of beacons. The first step is to draw the floor on the balcony with transverse lines every 60 cm. Then cut the beacons (metal profiles) along the width of the balcony and install them on dowels and screws. Alignment of profiles occurs with the help of the same building level and small wooden or hardboard bars, which are placed under the lighthouses. The products are fixed with cement mortar, they also fill the places where the bars were.
  2. Solution preparation. If a dry mix was purchased, then the preparation of the solution must take place in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. For self-preparation, you need to take 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement. First, the dry ingredients are mixed, after which water is added. After preparation, it is recommended to let the solution brew and mix again after 15 minutes.
  3. Application of the mixture. The finished solution is applied to the floor with spatulas and leveled, taking into account the beacons. Then the flooring is left alone for 2 hours, after which the beacons are removed and the resulting strobes are filled with a solution.
  4. Grout. At the very end, a day after applying the material, the surface is treated sandpaper and then coated with a primer. Then you can proceed to further work on the design of the floor.

How to fill the floor on the balcony without beacons:


The finished surface is primed, after which you can proceed to further finishing work, for example, lay a laminate on the balcony.

Warming

Depending on the presence of a thermal insulation layer and the type of material used, different results can be achieved on the balcony. In most cases, before leveling the floor on the balcony completely, a heater is laid that does not change the size of the interior space.

Warming without changing the coating

In this case, we are talking about installing a floor heating system. electric type. Installation is carried out as follows:

  • First of all, foamenol foam insulation is laid over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe balcony.
  • The rolled part of the underfloor heating system is rolled out on the prepared base.
  • The edges of the material adjacent to the wall should be treated with bituminous insulation.
  • On the opposite side, it is necessary to bring the contacts and solder them.
  • All exposed conductive parts must be insulated.
  • The thermostat should be connected to the network, and the temperature sensor should be placed under the heating element, while fixing the wire with tape.
  • A hole is drilled next to the outlet for the control panel and a strobe for connecting the cable.
  • Power is supplied from a nearby outlet.

Important! After all the above actions, a test run of the system should be carried out, and only then the final coating should be laid.

Insulation with a change in floor thickness

The first step is to mark the surface. To do this, draw 3 longitudinal lines with an indent from the walls of 5 cm and from each other by 40-60 cm, depending on the width of the balcony. Then brackets are installed along the lines every 30-40 cm. Wooden bars are mounted in the installed fasteners and fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the installation of transverse logs is carried out (usually no more than 4 pieces are required, spaced at an equal distance from each other). Installed lags are checked by level, after which mineral wool or penoplex is laid between them. From above, the structure is covered with plywood, which is installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 15 cm.


Penoplex is one of the most popular materials for floor insulation on the balcony.

Arrangement of flooring

The last step in arranging the floor on the balcony is the installation of a finishing coating. There are several ways to carry out this operation, but the most popular is the tiled floor.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles on the balcony begins with the preparation of the mortar. It is recommended to use branded products, as home-made mixtures may be too low quality. The prepared solution is applied to the floor with a figured spatula and stretched over the surface. The tiles are pressed to the floor and checked with a building level. Next to it, the next element is laid, and crosses are installed between them, with the help of which the seams will be formed.


Tiles allow you to emphasize the individuality of the balcony interior

In areas near the walls, trimming of the material may be required. To do this, it is better to use a tile cutter, the use of a grinder in this case is traumatic. After installing the entire tile, you must wait a day for the solution to dry, and then fill the seams with a special grout.

Terrace board laying

First, longitudinal logs are installed without rigid fixation, transverse beams are mounted on them, fastened with self-tapping screws. Then, special clips are installed on the transverse boards, which come with the terrace board. The material will be installed in these clamps. The side on which there is a groove is put into clips and so on until the entire roll is lined. The correct installation of each element is checked by the building level.


When laying terrace board lags need to be installed

Floor painting

First you need to prime the surface. Firstly, the adhesion of the coating will increase significantly, and secondly, paint consumption will decrease. Then the material is poured into a convenient container, a roller is dipped in it and the floor surface is painted over, starting from the far corner. After a few hours, when the paint dries a little, a second coat should be applied. After these procedures, no more work will be done, so you can mount the baseboard. Although some prefer to additionally varnish the floor.


Linoleum laying

A sheet of material is rolled out on the floor and the excess is trimmed. To do this, the edge of the roll is pressed against the wall and cut off just above the floor line to leave a margin. Then the material is removed and a special glue is applied to the surface. Linoleum is again laid on top of the prepared base and pressed firmly to the floor. Further, the entire surface is rolled with a roller, and excess glue is removed with a rag.


Laying linoleum is a fairly simple procedure that does not require special skills.

Installation of laminate or parquet

The first step is to lay a substrate of polyethylene or cork. The material must completely cover the surface to be treated. Fragments of the substrate are fastened with ordinary adhesive tape. Laying parquet or laminate on the balcony starts from the far corner, while the spike should be pressed against the wall surface. Then they pick up a row adjacent to the balcony railing.

On a note! Wooden pegs should be inserted into the gap between the wall and the material to form an expansion gap. This gap is necessary so that during the set of moisture, the floor covering does not swell.


Installation of laminate and parquet requires attention and a responsible approach to business

Conclusion

Flood concrete screed and installing flooring on a balcony is quite simple, since its area is small, and the requirements for the quality of the finished coating are lower than for indoor surfaces. The only difficulty that a novice master may encounter is the installation of a warm floor system, so it is better to entrust it to specialists. Everything else can be done on your own, it is only important to follow the above instructions and check the results of the work with the level as often as possible.