A ceramic tile floor base is a practical option for wet rooms. This is due to her high operational characteristics- aesthetics, durability, resistance to moisture, decay and deformation.
Often homeowners have doubts about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. Of course, it is possible, but with strict observance of the installation technology of the facing material.
Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor
Ceramic tiles and wood are practically incompatible materials, since wood, like any material of organic origin, cracks and deforms over time. It can also swell and crack, even if well fixed.
If you put a layer of tile adhesive, or make a cement screed directly on the floorboard, then the movement of wood will certainly lead to peeling of the tile, cracks in the screed and, consequently, loss of money and time for the next floor repair.
The main task is to make such a shock-absorbing layer between the wooden floor surface and the tile, which will compensate for the micro-movements of the base, without transferring them to the tile adhesive layer.
The demand and popularity of ceramic tiles allows them to be widely used for facing old wooden floors. Ceramic laying is allowed on the following types grounds:
- frame,
- log,
- lumber,
- shield.
Laying tiles on a wooden floor requires taking into account the specifics of the surface, its high-quality preparation and compliance with the installation technology.
Based on the results of the preliminary inspection of the wooden base, the following activities are carried out:
- The surface is in good operating condition without damage - floor preparation and tiling in progress.
- The surface is damaged or deformed - installation is not possible. To begin with, a full or partial restoration is carried out with the replacement of damaged areas.
A damper layer is arranged between the tile and the base to cushion the possible movement of the floor. It also provides additional floor protection against increased moisture and prevents premature aging of wood.
Difficulties when installing floor cladding
Neglect of the basic rules for preparing the base and laying floor ceramics can lead to:
- To deformation, cracking and damage to the cladding as a result of wood movements.
- To the defeat of rot and mold in rooms with high humidity.
In the process of installing tiles, novice masters may encounter some difficulties:
- Insufficient rigidity of the base due to the mobility of wood for fixing floor ceramics.
- Insufficient access of oxygen to the lower part of the floor structure.
- Uneven distribution of ultimate loads over the entire surface area.
Installation of floor tiles in wooden house after completion of construction, as well as the arrangement of floors with wooden floors, is not carried out. Works are possible only after complete shrinkage of the building after 3-4 years. If the house is built of brick, reinforced concrete or cinder block, then flooring can be done at any time.
Features of laying tiles in the bathroom and in the kitchen
Often ceramic tiles are used to protect the wooden surface in rooms and buildings with high humidity - an entrance hall, a shower room, a kitchen, a corridor, a bathroom, a bathhouse and a swimming pool.
The main difference is that in the bathroom, kitchen and other functional areas, the air is oversaturated with moisture and steam. This requires the arrangement of additional waterproofing of the surface. For these purposes, PVC film or bitumen-based roofing material is used.
An excellent alternative is moisture-resistant drywall and cement chipboards up to 2 cm thick. Waterproofing materials are mounted on a pre-installed bituminous roofing material with fixation on self-tapping screws.
Important! The gaps between the waterproofing material and the walls are carefully filled with mounting foam. This will provide additional strength to the base.
The prepared surface is primed, after which the tiles are laid.
Wooden base preparation
Before performing facing work, it is necessary to properly prepare the wooden surface. The device of a multilayer floor cake will ensure the solidity and ventilation of the base, reduce the load on the wood.
Dismantling first. wooden structure gender. Deformed and damaged elements are replaced with new ones. If necessary, the laying step of the lag is reduced and the surface is leveled. Additionally, the structure is treated with antiseptic compounds.
Instructions for the preliminary preparation of a wooden floor provides for the following steps:
Stage 1 . Dismantling of the base and preliminary cleaning of the paintwork. Surface cleaning is carried out in three ways:
- Chemical. Treatment of wooden floors with chemicals that help dissolve varnishes and paints.
- Thermal. Heating the base with a building hair dryer and dismantling the coating with a metal spatula.
- Mechanical. Dismantling the coating with a power tool - a grinder with a nozzle, a grinder or medium-grain paper.
Stage 2. Checking the condition of individual elements of the floor structure - logs and beams, replacing with new parts and leveling the surface.
Stage 3 . Antiseptic surface treatment. The tree is susceptible to increased moisture and temperature changes, therefore, it requires maximum protection against rotting, deformation and mold damage. Processing is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, observing the interval and intensity of application.
Stage 4 . Arrangement of a heat-insulating layer. For insulation, expanded clay of fine fraction is used to fill the free space between the lags in the floor. For supporting natural ventilation a 6 cm technological gap is provided between the lower part of the log and the insulation.
Stage 5 . Subfloor installation. For these purposes, a clean and even board is used, which is fixed to the base with galvanized self-tapping screws. The surface is leveled with a thin layer of putty. The distance from the wall to the floorboard is filled with foam.
Instead of a floorboard, 12 mm plywood or chipboard sheets can be used after pre-treatment with antiseptics.
Waterproofing layer under the tiles
Careful waterproofing of the surface will ensure a long service life of the floor cladding. For these purposes, a practical, wear-resistant and reliable material is used, resistant to moisture penetration and condensation.
The surface is treated with heated drying oil or latex-based impregnation, on top of which a special damper tape is overlapped. It provides the necessary cushioning and compensation for the movement of the wooden base.
The double-sided cushioning tape is installed with the elastic side against the wood, and the strong side against the tile. An additional benefit of using a damper layer is to maintain natural ventilation and prevent moisture ingress.
Methods for leveling the floor surface
To lay tiles on a prepared wooden floor, it is necessary to equip a reliable monolithic surface. This can be done in three ways:
- dry way,
- method of pouring cement-concrete screed,
- express way.
Dry leveling
A fairly popular way to obtain a flat surface using moisture-resistant drywall, plywood and OSB boards. Such materials are characterized by increased strength and static, resistant to deformation and decay.
Dry leveling of the surface is different:
- Increasing the thermal insulation characteristics of the base.
- Simplicity and accessibility of the technological process of laying insulation.
Among the disadvantages are:
- A significant rise in the floor level, which is unacceptable for small rooms with low ceilings.
- The visual difference between a smooth and unfinished surface.
Dry leveling is performed according to the following scheme:
- Thermal insulation installation, processing protective compounds and fixing the paint mesh with an overlap.
- Backfilling of a leveling dry mixture of expanded clay chips, sand and other binders. Uniform distribution of the mixture over the entire surface.
- Installation of the selected material - plywood or boards - in a checkerboard pattern so that the joints between the individual elements do not match.
- Cleaning the surface and joints with a grinder and processing with a deep penetration primer mixture.
Wet screed
The method of leveling the surface is similar to creating a conventional screed for decorative trim.
The floating screed is prepared from leveling polymer and cement-sand mixtures.
Its main advantage is the creation of a monolithic base, resistant to the movement of a wooden structure. And the disadvantages include: an increase in the height of the floor pie, significant labor and financial costs.
Work on the arrangement of a wet screed is carried out in the following order:
- Increasing the strength of the base. If the logs are located in increments of 50 cm from each other, then it will be necessary to check and replace the deformed sections with the reinforcement of the structure with the help of bars.
- Installation of intermediate flooring from the board. For these purposes, solid floorboards up to 4 cm thick are used, which are fixed on logs in compliance with technological gaps of 1 cm.
- Installation of plywood or slabs up to 12 mm thick like brickwork. Technological gaps between individual elements are 3 mm.
- Arrangement of a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film or oiled paper over the entire surface of the floor with fixation on double-sided tape.
- Pouring a ready-made leveling mixture or cement-sand screed up to 10 mm high over the entire surface.
Express way to level the surface
It is used to level the surface, which is in excellent operating condition or has minor visual defects. For work, moisture-resistant cardboard is used, which is fixed to the draft board using self-tapping screws or special polymer-based glue.
The main advantages of the method include simplicity and low cost of installation, resistance to temperature changes in wood.
The process itself is carried out as follows:
- Before installing drywall, the horizontalness of the floorboards is checked. Differences are eliminated by improvised means: waxed paper, roofing felt or fiberboard.
- Drywall is mounted on the surface brickwork in two layers. It is important to ensure that the joints between the rows do not match.
- A gap is provided along the perimeter of the base, and the seams between the individual elements are filled with sealant.
- The base is carefully treated with a primer mixture.
- The gap is filled with mounting foam, after which the plinth is mounted.
Laying ceramic tiles
The technology of mounting tiles on a wooden surface is quite simple for independent development. First you need to prepare working tools and materials:
- Ceramic tiles.
- Crosses for tiles.
- Tile adhesive.
- Construction mixer.
- Spatula with teeth.
- Rubber mallet.
- Tile cutter.
- Level.
Several options for mounting tiles are available: rectangular and checkerboard masonry, herringbone, rhombus or pattern.
Important! First, dry laying of the material on the surface is performed to select the optimal installation method.
The main stages of laying tiles on a prepared base:
- Drawing markings around the perimeter and dividing the room into four zones diagonally.
- Preparation of the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions per 1 square area.
- Application of the mixture with a spatula and even distribution on the surface for mounting two elements.
- Installing the tiles on the adhesive mixture with soft tapping with a hammer for tight shrinkage of each element. Placing crosses in the seam space to adjust the width of the seam.
- Next, the material is laid to fill the entire surface of the floor.
- Checking the quality of masonry with a building level.
- After the adhesive mixture has completely dried, remove the crosses and grout the tile joints.
A well-laid tile on a wooden floor will allow you to get a reliable and practical coating that will last for decades. The main thing in this matter is to observe the installation technology, as well as take into account professional advice and recommendations.
Usually found in all old apartments, but also often settled in a new home. At the same time, such a base can be equipped in any room, from the bedroom to the bathroom. As you know, tile is one of the best materials that can withstand prolonged exposure to moisture without harming itself, which is why it is this coating that is laid in bathrooms and in the kitchen. But how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, if one is equipped in all rooms? After all, there is an opinion that such a coating and a tree are incompatible.
Experienced craftsmen who have been decorating rooms for many years say that ceramic tiles and a wooden base are incompatible things. Many people think that it is pointless to cover the wooden base with tiles, as the floors will be cold and unpleasant, unlike the cozy ones made of wood.
Another factor influencing the opinion of experts is that under a layer of tile adhesive and the tile itself, the base simply will not “breathe” properly, which will quickly become unusable. The formation of the opinion that wood and ceramics are incompatible was also influenced by the fact that the service lives of these materials are quite different from each other - wood will become unusable much faster than ceramics, and the mobility of the wooden base will significantly affect the fact that a rather fragile tile can be damaged.
That is why the use of tiles on a wooden base in order to reduce the impact of moisture on the latter is a rather controversial issue. Although it is this argument that is often given in favor of arranging a tiled flooring based on wood.
On a note! If the tile will be laid in a house under construction or already built, but a new house, it is best to mount this type of coating on - just do not equip wooden floors where it is planned to install this type of coating. Also, tiles cannot be laid on a newly equipped wooden floor, since the tree will “get used” to the operating conditions for 2-3 years, lie down and will “play” for a long time.
It is important to remember that the tile coating, due to the severity of the adhesive / finishing material, significantly increases the pressure on the floors, and if they are made of wood, they may not be designed for such additional weight and will quickly become unusable - they will break.
It is believed that the wooden base for the tile is good because it does not have to be further leveled, and this is somewhat true. Indeed, a series of preparatory work will only be carried out if the floors are already quite old and need some repairs. Relatively fresh wood usually lays well, does not warp, and is one of the best options for evenness of the base for demanding tiles. Everything else speaks far from being in favor of the close proximity of ceramics and wood. In general, it is only wise to lay tiles if the wood is really constantly exposed to significant water.
Tarkett floor tiles prices
tarkett floor tiles
When the need arises
If there are so many "contraindications" for laying tiled flooring on a wooden base, then why is this an option? repair work does it have a place? It's simple - sometimes ceramic coating you just have to mount it on a wooden base. This may be in the following cases:
- in timber, log, frame houses;
- in case of constant exposure to water in large quantities on a wooden base;
- with fairly frequent wet cleaning in a room with a wooden floor;
- in bathrooms, kitchens, bathrooms, saunas, baths.
How to correctly lay tiles on a wooden floor
The key to the fact that the tile lying on the wooden floor will last for many years is only its correct installation, during which certain installation rules will be observed. Subtleties of technology and recommendations:
- for such work, only light tiles with a low density can be used;
- the base of the floor must be strong and reliable;
- the subfloor must be carefully checked and prepared if necessary;
- tiling can be done on a wooden base, equipped at least two years ago;
- to the wood from the bottom of the floor must be supplied Fresh air to avoid the onset of decay processes;
- the load should be distributed evenly;
- the base must be as stable as possible.
First of all, the base of the floor must pass a certain test. It is carefully examined, thanks to which it is possible to assess its condition. The floor should not sag, creak, crunch underfoot. The base should be as even as possible - all sagging floorboards must be replaced with new ones.
Attention! If you lay a tile on a sagging wooden floor, then it will definitely collapse under the pressure of the legs and furniture - it will begin to crumble and break, as the tree under it will bend and “walk”. It is important to make sure of the stability and reliability of the wooden floor even before purchasing the material and starting work.
Also when installing tiles small size on an unprepared and unreliable base, there is a risk that not the tile itself will crack, but the seams that will be between the individual elements of the coating. Because of this, moisture will begin to get under the tile layer, undermine the tree. And dirt will accumulate in open seams.
Also, the preparation of the base includes the replacement of floorboards affected by the fungus. The fact is that if they are not removed, the fungus will eventually spread throughout the base and significantly reduce its service life. The result is the destruction of the base and damage to the tile.
Important! Reconcile the wooden base and tile laying a layer between them will help, which will compensate for the movements of the floor and prevent them from adversely affecting the tile floor.
Good condition of the base
So, it was found that it is possible to lay tiles on a good reliable base. So how is the work done in this case?
Step 1. First of all, the base of the floor is prepared. All garbage is swept away from it, the wooden base is treated with special protective preparations for wood, which will help it fight bugs, fungus, and mold. Next, a layer of waterproofing material is mounted on the floor surface so that its individual strips overlap and are fastened with adhesive tape. Further, an additional leveling material is mounted on the surface, which will not “walk” as much as the tree itself, which means it will allow you to keep the tile intact. It can be plywood, moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet, etc. The material is attached to the base with self-tapping screws in increments of 15-20 cm. The joints of the material are coated with glue.
Step 2 The required number of tiles is calculated. The number of elements will directly depend on the size of individual copies of the material, as well as on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room being repaired. In order to find out the right amount of material, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is divided by the area of one tile. It turns out the total number of required material.
Important! It is necessary to buy ceramic tiles with a small margin in case of damage to part of the material during installation. Tiles - the material is quite fragile until it is laid on the base, and breaks easily.
Calculator for calculating the amount of adhesive for laying tiles
Ceramic tiles are an excellent material for flooring, especially in rooms with high humidity or with a high probability of liquids or other substances on the floor. Typical examples are bathroom, toilet, hallway, kitchen. They do not refuse to lay tiles in residential premises, if the floor is equipped with a heating system.
But what about the owners of private housing, in which all floors originally wooden? A similar question may arise for owners of apartments of old buildings, where the plank flooring is mounted on logs. Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?
You can immediately reassure those who are worried - this is a completely feasible operation that does not require complete dismantling of the coating to the ground or a concrete base, followed by pouring a thick concrete screed. True, you will have to work hard, since the success of such a reworking of the coating will mainly depend on the quality and strength of the wooden base.
Taking on the laying of tiles, if there is at least any, even the smallest, suspicion of the instability of the wooden base is the height of recklessness. This is explained simply:
- Wood is a fairly flexible material, tending to assume its original configuration after deformation. But what is "forgivable" wooden floor(slight deflection, springing, etc.), absolutely unacceptable for ceramics. Each individual tile is very rigid, not bendable. In the case of a “game” of the floor, it can simply crack.
- Another case, if, for example, ceramic tiles are small. cement-containing tile adhesive also does not like dynamic bending loads. It will definitely go into small cracks, begin to delaminate, and the tile, even retaining its integrity, will simply move away from the base.
At the same time, one should not forget that the load on the coating will increase significantly - in addition to everything else, the ceramic tile itself has considerable weight, mortars, other possible structural elements of the created multi-layer "pie" of the floor. Thus, the wooden base must have guaranteed static. This is what needs to be achieved at the first stage of work.
It is clear that the first step is always a thorough visual inspection, making efforts on the most problematic areas of the wooden floor in order to identify its possible vibrations and sources of squeaks. If there are any, then questions should not arise at all - the coating is subject to a thorough sorting and repair, and not only in places of instability, since strengthening the floor in one place does not guarantee that it will not appear in another. It is necessary to understand the cause, and eliminate it at the root.
Sometimes after dismantling the floor, a "terrible" picture appears
Moreover, experienced craftsmen always advise, in all cases of laying tiles on a wooden base, to carry out its complete enumeration. If a ceramic coating is planned, then one must think that this is on long term, and not for a year ÷ two. Where is the guarantee that the hidden floor with wooden flooring is a defect or the process of wood decomposition that has begun today, which does not manifest itself in any way today, will not be detected in just a month or even a year, when tiled flooring will it be fully installed? To carry out repairs, you will have to remove all the tiles, dismantle the wooden base - and all due to the fact that proper integrity was not shown during the preparation. Isn't it better to be completely, 100% sure of the reliability and stability of a wooden floor before you start laying tiles?
Let such a prospect not be particularly frightening - compared to the complete dismantling of a wooden floor and pouring a new concrete screed to replace it, this procedure is much simpler, requires much less labor and financial investments.
So, the usual scheme of a wooden floor is a plank flooring mounted on logs. The logs themselves can be installed according to concrete base. Another option - they are a system of double wood flooring, with a rough and finishing floor and the space between them, which can be filled with thermal insulation material. With any kind of floor revision, the boardwalk will have to be completely removed in order to open the logs for their inspection, repair and alignment.
- If the condition of any of the logs causes even the slightest concern - there are cracks or areas with signs of wood decomposition, it is subject to unconditional replacement.
- In the case when the distance between adjacent lags exceeds 500 mm, it will be necessary to install additional bars, otherwise even the thickest batten can give a bend in this place.
- Be sure to align the lag horizontally. If they are securely embedded, and there is no way to change the height of the supports, this can be achieved. urging using a planer, or, conversely, building it up with a wooden plank.
- Of course, if there is a subfloor, it should also be given a certain repair - replace dilapidated or cracked boards, eliminate possible distortions, squeaks, etc. When it is ready, both it and the logs are covered with a layer of dense waterproofing film.
- If it has already become possible to get to the log and the subfloor, you should take the opportunity and treat all the details with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds. You should not attribute your unwillingness to carry out this procedure to the fact that such processing was carried out earlier, during the initial laying of the floor - the compositions are inexpensive, the process itself will not take much time, but the durability of the structure will increase for sure.
- Literally every board of the removed flooring is checked for integrity, the presence of weak areas, cracks, clogged and bent unnecessary nails, etc. All boards with significant defects should be disposed of and replaced with fresh ones.
- An important action that should not be forgotten is cleaning the boards of the finishing floor from old paint layers in case the subsequent laying of tiles is planned directly on them. Creating a reliable base for tiles involves working with a cleaned wood structure.
Such cleaning can be done in several ways:
So, paint or varnish can be removed in advance by scraping or using abrasive materials- grinding and polishing machines, sandpaper or special nozzles for a "grinder" or an electric drill.
Sometimes a chemical cleaning method is used - washing off the paint with the help of solvents. However, this is not the best option, because organic solvents are actively absorbed into the wood, violating its natural qualities and reminding of themselves with an unpleasant pungent odor for a long time.
The thermal method is widely used - using a building hair dryer or even a blowtorch. Under the influence of high temperatures, the paintwork either burns out or melts to such a state that it is easy to remove it with an ordinary scraper (trowel).
- Before proceeding with the reverse installation of the floorboards, it is possible to think over additional floor insulation. Expanded clay can be poured between the lags, mats can be laid mineral wool or styrofoam boards. Additional thermal insulation will never hurt anyone.
- The reverse flooring of the boards on the logs is not “solid”, but leaving a gap of 3-5 mm between them, it is necessary so that the wooden floor under the tiles has the opportunity to “breathe” and to compensate for possible linear fluctuations of the material. Another option is to drill through holes in the boards in random order. Be sure to leave a gap near the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, about 10 mm. All gaps left can be slightly closed with adhesive tape or mounting foam.
- After the final installation of the floorboards on the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, a thorough quality control of the coating is once again carried out. If no shortcomings are identified, you can proceed to preparing the base for laying ceramic tiles.
Several ways to prepare the base for laying tiles
So, a repaired solid plank base has been obtained. How to proceed further in order to fully adapt it to laying ceramic tiles?
1. The tile is supposed to be laid directly on top of boards
- First, you need to create a thin, but stable and reliable waterproofing layer. To do this, the wooden floor is thickly treated with hot drying oil, but this method is rather outdated, and besides, it is very unsafe, so it is better to use a latex impregnating composition. It is applied thickly with a wide brush on the floorboards, which immediately after that, without waiting for the composition to dry, are covered with a fine-mesh fiberglass painting mesh.
- When the latex composition is completely dry, for reliability, the mesh should be fixed on the floor surface with galvanized self-tapping screws with wide hats.
- The result is a durable waterproofing coating, which, in addition, has certain reinforcing properties.
- Now it is tedious to achieve good adhesion of the tile adhesive to the resulting base. You can do it this way. Preparing a solution consisting of 2 parts large-fraction sand, 2 parts of silicate glue (often referred to as "liquid glass"), and one part of water. After thorough mixing, the resulting composition is evenly applied in a thin layer over the entire surface of the floor.
After complete drying, a rough monolithic surface will be obtained, completely ready for laying ceramic tiles.
Video: an example of laying tiles directly on the boardwalk
2. It is planned to fill a thin screed
- If you read the opinion of many experienced craftsmen, then some of them are categorically against laying tiles directly on a plank base. Their suggestion is to pour a small light screed over it.
- The initial process - impregnation of the floorboards with a waterproofing composition, does not change.
- Further, along the perimeter, a damper tape should be glued to prevent deformation and destruction of the screed near the walls.
- A system of beacons is installed, based on the thickness of the screed of about 30 mm. Between the beacons, you can additionally lay a thin metal or fiberglass mesh.
- For screed, you can use a standard base cement-sand mortar with fine seeded sand (1: 3), but it is better to use special dry building mixes that have in their composition fiber optic microreinforcement and plasticizers. Such a screed matures faster and is more durable for such conditions. In addition, nothing prevents the use of the technology of pouring a self-leveling compound.
- After hardening and full maturation of the screed, it is treated with a primer, after which it can be considered ready for laying ceramic tiles.
3. The floorboards will be covered with plywood (chipboard, OSB)
If there is no desire to dilute dirt with a screed, the room does not belong to the category high humidity, but has a fairly intense dynamic load, then the plank base can be covered with plywood sheets 10 mm thick. The thickness may be more, but we should not forget that this is an extra load on the logs and floorboards. By the way, here you can save on the floorboard - it is enough to lay it with an interval of even up to 150 -200 mm.
The work is carried out in next sequence:
- The plank base, after antiseptic impregnation, is covered with a waterproofing material. In the case described, this role can be played by waxed, waxed or bitumen-impregnated construction paper, or even ordinary polyethylene film not less than 200 microns thick.
- Plywood sheets are laid out staggered, so that between them there must be a compensation gap of 5 to 10 mm. A similar gap is left around the perimeter of the room along the walls.
- The plywood is attached to the plank base with self-tapping screws, with a pitch of no more than 150 - 200 mm, both along the perimeter of the sheet and along its plane. The heads of the self-tapping screws must be completely recessed into the thickness of the material.
- After laying the plywood over the entire area of the room, the expansion gaps between the sheets and along the walls are sealed with sealant or mounting foam. Excess material after it dries is cut off to the floor level.
- The next step is to create a waterproofing reinforcing layer and prepare the surface for laying tiles. Here, in se in exactly the same way as described above for a wooden floor: latex impregnation → paint mesh → treatment with a silicate-sand composition.
After that, you can proceed directly to laying the tiles.
4. Wood floor close up gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)
This method is somewhat similar to the one described above (with plywood), but it also has its own characteristic features:
- As a rule, GVL are equipped with a locking part for pairing adjacent sheets. In these places they are connected with a special adhesive and self-tapping screws. The use of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter of the GVL and in its center is not required.
- If the strength of the wooden base of the floor allows, and the operational features of the room require special reliability of the coating, GVL can be laid in two layers. In this case, the second should be oriented perpendicular to the first. Coincidence of joints is not allowed.
Approximate scheme of the resulting "pie" with two layers of GVL
- The GVL surface after treatment with a primer does not need any additional manipulations - it is ready for laying ceramic tiles.
The very process of laying tiles on a prepared wooden floor surface in principle, it is no different from conventional technology, which is discussed in detail. The only thing you should pay attention to is the brand of tile adhesive. It is best to choose a composition “for complex surfaces”, and for some adhesive mixtures, the instructions for use directly indicate the possibility of their use for laying tiles on a wooden base. Such installation of tiles will be more reliable.
Quality and service life floor covering largely depends on the correct preparation of the base. According to the standard, only ideally can serve as the basis for ceramic tiles. Smooth surface, which can hold not only its stable position, but also the weight of ceramics.
For a long time it was perceived as a meaningless procedure. The fact is that wood is not inherent in constancy - under the influence of temperature and moisture changes, it can narrow or expand, change its size. And floor ceramics, in turn, are extremely sensitive to linear changes, so they will quickly become unusable. Chips and cracks will appear on its surface, the seams will begin to crumble, and the tile itself will gradually lag behind the base. But there are special schemes in construction, with which you can "reconcile" these materials.
Laying ceramics on a wooden base is considered impractical for a number of reasons.
- The wooden floor, as noted above, is not static, while static is one of the main conditions for laying tiles.
- With linear expansion, durable ceramic elements will chip easily.
- The service life of tiles significantly exceeds that of boards and timber.
- If you lay moisture-repellent floor ceramics (namely, this is used in the bath), then the wood under it will not “breathe”, which will subsequently begin the process of decay.
- Finally, tile is a “cold” material, and wood is “warm”, and there is not much point in combining them.
In addition, in terms of aesthetic indicators, wood may be inferior to tiles, although this point is not so important, since ceramics are used mainly not because of the beauty of the patterns, but for sanitary and hygienic purposes. Laying tiles is advisable only in rooms with increased level humidity to protect floors from the harmful effects of moisture (for example, in a shower, a wooden bath).
But whatever the reasons, there is a need for laying tiles on a wooden floor. In this case, it remains to find out how this can be done, as well as to choose the most appropriate technology.
Important information! It is highly undesirable to lay ceramics on a new wooden floor, because you need to wait until the intensive shrinkage is completed. As a rule, this takes at least two to three years.
Stage one. Preparation of materials and equipment
First you need to purchase tiles. This issue has already been discussed in detail in the article about that, so today only the basic requirements will be briefly considered. You should focus on the geometry and marking of the material.
- The moisture absorption of the tiles used for arranging the floors in the bath should be minimal, since the material will be in permanent contact with water. The higher the porosity of the material, the more moisture it will absorb.
- Wear resistance can be determined by marking, the seller can help with this.
- It is not difficult to determine the quality of a tile - this can be done even by its external characteristics. This includes plane, feature geometry, and angle exposure. Laying uneven ceramics is a difficult and time-consuming procedure, which is why it is so important to determine the quality of the material in advance. To do this, it is enough to take two products and attach them to each other “face to face”: if they fit snugly, and all the corners coincide, then this is a really good tile and it can be used for arranging flooring in the bath.
- The design of ceramics is also important. The concept of design includes color, pattern, texture and form.
- Finally, do not forget about the purpose of the tile. Floor tiles are very different from wall tiles. The floor material is more durable and resistant to mechanical stress, has a rough surface, in addition, it has a low moisture absorption rate.
An important role is also played by the selection of tile adhesive.
The range of adhesive compositions is huge, but all of them are conditionally divided into two categories - dry and ready-made mixtures. Ready-made formulations are more expensive, but during the dilution of the dry mixture there is a risk of making a mistake with the proportions. When buying glue of a particular brand, you should pay attention to the presence of the following properties:
- resistance to aggressive substances and temperature changes;
- moisture resistance;
- frost resistance (if the bath is used irregularly and the temperature there may drop below 0 ° C).
All of the above requirements are met by two-component adhesive compositions made on the basis of epoxy resin or polyurethane.
Important information! Such compositions are elastic only for 1 hour after dilution, and therefore it is recommended to dilute them in small portions.
The waterproof composition "Diola D-307", intended for laying massive ceramic tiles, is excellent for a bath.
Glue “Diola D-307”
It is important that the selected adhesive is highly elastic. The fact is that the operating conditions in the bath are not simple: heating and, as a result, expansion of materials alternates with cooling. And the higher the elasticity of the adhesive, the greater the differences will be able to withstand the floor covering.
If it is planned to lay porcelain stoneware tiles, then the selected adhesive composition must have high adhesion - at least 28 kg / cm². This is explained by the significant weight of porcelain stoneware and almost zero hygroscopicity. If we talk about specific brands, then for laying tiles - both porcelain stoneware and ceramic - the Ceresit SM 17 composition is often used.
"Ceresit SM 11" is somewhat less popular, but if the SS-83 elasticizer is not added to this glue, then the adhesion will be significantly less than that of "Ceresit CM 17".
Table. Consumption of tile adhesive
Important information! Some builders refuse to use tile adhesive, preferring to use a home-made composition in their work: sand + cement (proportions - 3: 1) + PVA glue.
In addition, the work will require the following equipment:
- tile cutter;
- mounting level;
- plastic crosses (to create the required gap of 2-4 mm between the tiles);
- electric drill with mixer nozzle;
- notched trowel (tooth height should be approximately 8 mm).
Now you can proceed directly to the workflow.
Stage two. Foundation preparation
The wooden floor is a multi-layer structure, which is completely or partially made of wood. These are not only boards, but also a system of beams and logs laid under a plank floor, so before starting work, all elements must be carefully inspected and checked. Often the preparation of the base for laying is carried out:
- on the logs that remained after the removal of damaged or worn boards;
- on flooring made of moisture-resistant plywood and installed on logs;
- on the plank floor, if it is still usable.
The condition of the floor can only affect the number of repair operations, but not the choice of one or another arrangement scheme.
Schemes of wooden bases with tiles
The fact is that ceramic tiles are attached to any surface according to the standard scheme, while the differences may lie solely in preparatory activities. However, the result should be a flat and smooth surface that can support the weight of the floor tiles. There are several leveling methods suitable for a plank floor in a bath.
Method number 1. Dry leveling
The most popular way of leveling wooden floors, which is to create a static sub-layer, consisting of plywood or any other moisture-resistant material produced in sheets. There are several ways to dry leveling, let's get acquainted with them.
The final stage of dry leveling should be the installation of plywood sheets or particle boards.
Of course, waste wood pressed products or dowels are also subject to linear movement, but not as much as natural wood.
The ceramic tiles will be fixed over the leveling sheets not with ordinary tile adhesive, but special composition based on polyurethane.
Important information! Before laying ceramics, the plywood coating should be sanded along the seams. After that, the joints between the plates must be filled with sealant (as an option, you can use the glue that was purchased to fix the tiles) and treat the surface with a primer that is compatible with the selected sealing material.
Among the advantages of this method of alignment, it is worth highlighting:
- the possibility of improving thermal insulation qualities by laying insulating material between the lags - mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, etc .;
- high installation speed;
- minimization of the load on the floor, which does not have the strength that reinforced concrete counterparts have.
As for the shortcomings, here it is only one: a certain proportion of the height of the room will go to leveling. And between the finished area and the rest of the floor there will be a drop, from which you will later have to make a step or threshold.
It is worth noting that according to building codes the floor covering in hygienic rooms, which are washing and steam rooms, must be underestimated by at least 2-3 cm, otherwise, in case of leaks, water will flood adjacent rooms. With dry leveling technology (plus the thickness of ceramic tiles), the surface will rise noticeably above the rest of the floor, so it is undesirable to use it (technology) in a bath.
Video - Adjustable floor
Method #2. Wet screed
This is a kind of simplified way of traditional floor leveling. The screed is poured in a “light” form due to the fact that the bearing capacity of the plank floor is clearly not enough for a full-fledged leveling layer.
Important information! There is another feature of this method - when pouring the solution, it is cut off from the walls and the underlying base. In other words, it should be a kind of floating floor variation with a mandatory expansion gap around the entire perimeter.
With such a scheme wooden elements structures under the influence of temperature changes will move, while the screed itself with ceramics laid on top of it will remain motionless.
The thickness of the leveling layer should be 30 mm. It is undesirable to increase this thickness, since the weight will increase along with it. Only slight deviations in one direction or another (a few millimeters) are allowed.
Video - How to level a wooden floor
Fill algorithm cement screed given below.
Step 1. The floor is dismantled to the beam in order to inspect all the elements. If there is any doubt about the reliability of any element, it must be dismantled and replaced with a new one. If the distance between the lags exceeds 50 cm, then the system is reinforced by installing another beam. There should still be a slight gap (about 10 mm) between the ends of the log and the walls. At the end of the inspection and repair work, all wooden elements are treated with an antiseptic, then the floor is assembled back.
Step 2 A flooring is being constructed under the future screed. To do this, you can use old boards (provided that they are still suitable for use) with a thickness of 40 mm. When fastening between the boards, a ventilation gap of 10 mm remains. A similar gap also remains when using unedged boards to replace defective floorboards. After all, if the boards are laid back to back, you will have to drill holes in them for ventilation.
Step 3 On top of the boards - perpendicular to their direction - quartered moisture-resistant plywood from 1.2 cm in thickness is attached (other boards made from pressed waste from the woodworking industry are also suitable). The material is fastened by analogy with brickwork with glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (the latter are twisted in increments of 20 cm). A slight gap remains between the plates (about 3 mm), there should not be any cruciform joints. Do not forget about the drain hole (if it is planned), which is often arranged in the center of the room.
Step 4 Plywood flooring is covered with waterproofing material. For this, it is desirable to use glassine, paraffin or bituminous paper, although a thick plastic film is also suitable. Roll insulation is overlapped (5-10 cm) and fastened with adhesive tape to create a monolithic "carpet".
Along the entire perimeter, the material should go onto the walls by at least 10 cm; for convenience, it is also attached with tape there.
SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings. Download file
Step 5 A damper tape 100 mm wide and approximately 8-10 mm thick is laid along the walls.
Step 6 A screed is poured over the reinforcing mesh from a ready-made leveling compound or a home-made leveling mixture. To prepare the latter, sifted coarse sand is mixed with liquid glass in a ratio of 1: 1. Water (1:4) is added to the dry mixture without any impurities and additives.
Before pouring, the drain hole is protected by a small formwork. If the work is carried out in a washing or steam room, then special guide rails can be installed to obtain the required slope in the direction of the drain. When the solution has completely hardened, you can proceed directly to laying the tiles.
Method number 3. Express Leveling
This method involves attaching sheets of moisture-resistant drywall (GKVL) to the boardwalk with a two-component adhesive composition based on polyurethane. Due to its elasticity, the structure of the composition will not be disturbed even with wood deformations. Traditionally, before starting work, an inspection and repair of the structure is carried out.
Important information! It is desirable to lay drywall in two layers, and the seams of the first layer should not coincide with the seams of the second. This simple procedure will increase the rigidity of the flooring.
The plasterboard base is equipped in the same way as in the previous methods (using floating floor technology), so a technological gap should be left around the entire perimeter. The joints between the sheets are filled with sealant, after which the entire surface is primed with a universal primer. After laying ceramic tiles, the gap is filled with the same sealant and covered with skirting boards - so moisture will not seep in and spoil the building material.
Video - Laying tiles on a wooden floor
Each of the above methods of preparing the base may need to be adjusted to suit the specifics of the room. In reality, there are many more methods, but the principle is the same for everyone: the substrate should not interfere with the wooden base to “breathe”, and it, in turn, should not destroy the rigid base with the tiles laid on top of it.
Stage three. Bathroom tiling
The procedure is not much different from creating a tiled floor in other rooms, the difference lies only in the grout and adhesive mixture used. In addition, a slope towards the drain hole is necessary, but these are rather features of the floor itself; However, this should be kept in mind when finishing work. If the surface is not prepared, then in order to obtain a slope, it will be necessary to significantly increase the consumption of the adhesive composition. In the case of the dressing room, everything is much simpler: no slope is needed, the main thing is to maintain the horizontal and align the tiles relative to each other.
First you need to perform a "fitting" to determine how best to lay the tiles. Cutting will have to be done in any case, although it is desirable to place the cut elements along the periphery of the room. The number of tiles to be cut is determined in advance. If it is insignificant, then it is quite possible to use a tile cutter for cutting; it is more convenient to perform multiple cutting with a grinder.
The algorithm for further actions is the same as in the case of traditional laying technology.
Step 1. In a room of the correct form, laying should begin from the most visible angle. In case of irregular geometry, you need to determine the middle by crossing the diagonals and start from there. To do this, the room is divided into 4 identical segments. And if we are talking about a steam room or a sink, then it is better to start laying from the drain hole - it will be more convenient to observe the slope.
Important information! Often, a building level is used to check the horizontalness of the tile, but for the steam room and sink, as noted above, the slope is important. Two options are possible here: either pull the rope, which will serve as a guide, or intentionally melt the required edge. Sometimes a special bar is made for this, having the desired slope. The bar lies on the tile, and on top of it - the building level.
Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain
Step 2 After that, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, glue is prepared. The composition quickly hardens, so you need to dilute in small portions - about 1 m² each.
Important information! For a bath, it is better to use not mastic, but a special cement glue. It is advisable to replace the usual grout with an elastic silicone compound that has a suitable color.
Step 3 Using a spatula, the diluted solution is applied to the surface.
Step 4 Tiles are laid on the floor treated with glue, special plastic crosses are inserted into the connecting seams (the latter, in extreme cases, can be replaced with ordinary matches). Horizontalness is periodically checked.
Important information! If a plinth is made from a tile, then it goes beyond the line of the lining (the latter, as it were, is superimposed on it). So moisture from the walls will not flow behind the baseboard.
Step 5 Correction and alignment can be carried out before the glue hardens. Longitudinal/transverse directions are corrected by slight shifts. "Sunken" elements are removed, the required amount of the mixture is added, after which they are laid back. A damp cloth is used to remove adhesive from the tile surface. After hardening, you can start grouting.
Video - Laying tiles
Stage four. Grouting
After one or two days, you can start grouting. This will require a special anti-fungal grout and the appropriate tool, i.e. a rubber spatula.
As soon as the grout sets (it takes about half an hour), the surface is carefully rubbed with a dry cloth to remove dry gypsum. After that, you can proceed to further finishing the bath!
Increasingly, you can see tiles as flooring not only in the kitchen or bathroom, but also in other rooms. Sometimes at the same time it becomes necessary to lay the material on the old surface, and the question arises of how to put the tiles on the wooden floor with high quality. You will learn about all the possible nuances of this process in our article.
Previously, this approach to laying ceramic tiles in the house was not recommended for the reason that wooden surface was considered insufficiently rigid and solid. Due to the unreliable foundation, the structure can become mobile, and the concrete screed laid on top can quickly deform, and the tile can fall off. In addition, themselves wooden planks susceptible to decay. but modern technologies and materials solve the above problems, making it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor. The basis of this process is the correct preparation of the wooden base.
Surface preparation
The preparation of a wooden floor for tiles begins with the elimination of defects on the surface. This will help make the floor harder and more durable. It is from the reliability of the old coating that the durability of the new one will depend. To achieve the expected result, several steps must be taken.
- First of all, we remove the boards. If they do not have significant damage, leave them for the base. At this stage, the main thing is to open full access to the lags.
- Next, we examine the logs for evenness using the building level. If necessary, leveling: this is very important to obtain an even surface.
- Between the walls and lags we leave a free space of 1 cm and, using mounting foam, waterproof it.
- To obtain additional heat and sound insulation, we fill the space between the lags with expanded clay.
- If the previously removed boards are of good quality, you need to put them back. You can also lay moisture-resistant plywood up to 12 mm thick, which will not sag under the weight of ceramic tiles.
- To exclude rotting and mold on the logs and the main floor, we treat them with appropriate protective agents.
- When fixing boards or plywood to the logs, small gaps (about 5 mm) should be left between them to ensure ventilation of the wooden material.
- To protect the base from moisture, it is necessary to put a layer of hydro and vapor barrier on the subfloor. It can be polyethylene, parchment or bituminous paper.
Base device
There are several ways to arrange a base for laying tiles on a wooden floor. Let's take a closer look at each of them.
- Filling the floor concrete screed. In this embodiment, the installation of the screed has the same principle as when creating a simple floor, it differs only in greater lightness and less thickness. To do this, you need to put a metal mesh on top of the waterproofing layer and attach it with self-tapping screws to the subfloor. Next, we set the beacons according to the level and fill the screed with a layer of 3 mm.
- We strengthen the floor with a two-component polyurethane adhesive or a composition based on liquid glass. Masters advise using this method when using a low-quality base. If the wood floor begins to rot and warp, the adhesive will keep the ceramic tile from cracking. However, it is difficult to argue that such formulations are effective, because they are not yet widespread enough.
- We do laying on waterproofing sheets of moisture-resistant gypsum board (GKLV), cement-bonded particle boards (DSP) or gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL). The last option is the most optimal, since GVL sheets have a lower cost than DSP, and have greater elasticity than drywall. This material, in addition, has sound and heat insulation properties, and when using special impregnation, it also becomes moisture resistant.
To the draft floor, the sheets must be fixed with self-tapping screws. In this case, attention should be paid to the fact that the joints of the sheets pass over the boards, and not between the slots. After fastening with self-tapping screws, we glue the seams with special glue. If the rigidity of the resulting floor seems insufficient, it is better to put another layer. When the installation is completed, the sheets are covered with a deep penetration primer. Laying tiles can only be started after the soil has dried.
The tiling process
Before starting work, you need to check the level of the surface. You can start laying tiles with your own hands only if there are no significant deviations. Laying tiles on a wooden floor is carried out in several stages:
- tile preparation;
- creating a laying scheme on the floor;
- mixing the adhesive composition;
- laying tiles;
- sealing seams.
To complete these steps, you will need the following tools:
- notched trowel;
- rubber spatula;
- rubber mallet;
- tile cutter or glass cutter;
- two containers for composition and glue;
- building level;
- marking cord;
- roulette.
And to protect your hands while working with glue, it is better to use gloves.
First you need to calculate the number of tiles that you need to put on a wooden floor. To do this, you need to divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe room by the area of one tile. Considering the possibility of cropping and the spoilage factor, we add 10% to the final result. When buying tiles, do not confuse floor and wall tiles, as they look very similar in appearance, but have different properties. Floor tiles undergoes additional processing, making it more durable and less slippery.
Now you need to put a tile on the entire floor area in order to analyze its quality and appearance. Immediately in the tiles that need to be placed near the pipes, we make the corresponding holes.
We check the possibility of opening doors with a new level, which will be obtained after installing the material on a wooden floor. If opening the doors becomes problematic, remove them from the hinges and trim the bottom.
Next, you need to put the tile in water for 20 minutes to force the water out of it. If at the same time dark spots form on the surface of the material, it is not required to withstand it in water. In this case, simply wipe the inside of the ceramic tile with a damp brush.
We divide the wooden floor into 4 rectangular sections. To do this, using a coated cord, we draw lines between opposite walls so that they intersect in the center of the room. Focusing on the lines obtained, we lay the tiles in such a way as to minimize the number of cut tiles near the walls.
When laying tiles diagonally on the floor, the cuts will be much larger. If you lay out a whole tile along the wall, then you need to start work from the corner opposite to the front door. The window line should run parallel to the tile line. On the axes, the rows must be placed perpendicular to each other. The width of the joints is determined during the installation of crosses between the tiles.
Laying tiles on a wooden floor is done using a special cement adhesive. To create it, it is necessary to mix the dry mixture with water in the proportion indicated by the manufacturer. To improve adhesion to tiles, you can add 10% plasticizers to the solution. Given that the mixture dries in just a few hours, the composition should be prepared in small portions. Mixing is recommended with a construction mixer.
Apply the composition to the surface with a notched trowel in even stripes, starting from any corner of the room. Choose a spatula depending on the size of the tile. Apply glue to an area of no more than one square meter as it dries on the surface in just 15 minutes.
Laying tiles
We apply the tile to the surface with the applied adhesive composition. Press it firmly and tap it with a rubber mallet. Cover the prepared area and move on to the next until we finish the entire surface.
To maintain the same distance between the tiles, spacers can be used. Do not forget to constantly check the level of the laid tile, since after 10 minutes the glue will dry and it will be impossible to correct the position of the tile with your own hands. After laying, it remains to give the surface a finished look by sealing the seams.
If you still have questions about whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor, watch the instructional video, where you will receive tips on how to properly perform the laying technology.
How to understand: will the kitten be fluffy?
What kind of light alcohol can be drunk for pregnant women: the consequences of drinking
Why do the legs swell in the ankles and ankles of the feet in pregnant women: causes and methods of treatment
The wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle: scandalous and secret details of the marriage (photo) The future marriage of Prince Harry year NTV
How to close white plums for the winter