How to do ventilation in a Russian bath: general rules and detailed schemes for the device. Ventilation in the bath: the best schemes and professional advice Wooden scraper for bath ventilation

23.06.2020

Being indoors, a person absorbs oxygen, exhaling carbon dioxide. Everything seems to be as usual, but if such a room means a steam room, where hot steam is constantly swirling, then fresh air in this case has nowhere to come from. In such a room it is impossible not only to rest, but even just to be. After all, the body gradually relaxes, the amount of oxygen, in turn, decreases, and by the time there is nothing to breathe, a person may simply not reach the door.

According to safety standards, the replacement of air in the steam room should occur many times a day so that the people who are there can relax and cleanse themselves. Otherwise, a person will not be able to restore strength and will return home tired, with migraines and oxygen starvation. That is why the bath must be equipped with proper ventilation, because what can cope with the microclimate better than it? Neither herbs nor various incense will be able to add a couple of "usefulness" if there is no air circulation.

So, today we will talk about how ventilation is provided in the steam room with your own hands.

Improperly equipped ventilation can lead to certain consequences.

Even with good ventilation, the tree is subjected to enormous loads, so it often lasts no more than twenty years. Without fresh air, the service life will be reduced several times.
If carbon dioxide is not removed from the steam room, then its use will do more harm than good. In addition to carbon dioxide, combustion products accumulate there, and fungi and mold are permanent “guests” of any room with insufficient ventilation.
If the steam room is not ventilated, then soon it will be filled with the smell of rotten wood and stale air.

Another important function of air circulation is heat transfer. The point is that the air high humidity does not conduct heat well and as a result, the stove will only heat the space around it. That is why the ventilation inlet is usually located behind the stove, almost above the floor itself. This contributes to the fact that already heated air is distributed through the steam room; if the ventilation inlet is located in another place, it will supply the room cold air thus disrupting heat transfer.

The exit must be installed on the opposite side of the entrance.

Note! A common mistake is often encountered: the entrance and exit are placed on the same level. This creates a vicious cycle that barely affects most of the room. As a result, it will be too cold below, and too hot under the ceiling.

When arranging a bath, it is important not only right choice any ventilation scheme. Of great importance is the diameter of the ventilation holes. It is calculated as follows: for every 24 cm of the hole there must be one cubic meter of the room, otherwise there will be no circulation.

It should be noted that it is desirable to equip the inlets and outlets with plugs to regulate the intensity of air exchange. Mines should be laid even during the construction of the bath.

Bath ventilation methods - which is better?

The steam room can be ventilated both by natural air movement and artificially, using a specially installed fan. Artificial ventilation is rightfully considered simpler, because it is possible to properly equip the entrance / exit only with special knowledge and considerable experience.

Note! Not every duct fan is suitable for providing artificial air ventilation. The installed model must tolerate high humidity and temperature changes well, otherwise the electronics will break, which is extremely dangerous in a conventional wooden structure, which is often a Russian bath.

The technology of arranging ventilation in the steam room

To begin with, we note that the air flow primarily depends on the furnace. So it's worth finding out how it works.

Where does the ventilation of the bath begin?

It is worth noting that the firebox can be located both in the steam room itself and in the next room. Brick or stone is used for lining the furnace. A 5 cm gap is required between the lining and the metal.

Often, a firebox is installed in the rest room - so the garbage will not accumulate, and you will not have to run to the steam room every time in order to throw firewood. And now - directly to work.

First stage. Forced ventilation

A special channel is equipped for it, located above the floor. The channel should be located at the firebox where it is laid a metal sheet protecting the tree from coal ingress.

Step one. First you need to build a special box, which would be about 1/5 more than the chimney. The box is displayed outside, and not under the floor, otherwise unpleasant odors will constantly hover in the steam room.

Note! When the firebox is located directly in the steam room, two boxes are needed at once - the second will be convection.

Step two. Next, you need to equip a special podium near the wall, in which holes are made for air flow. For this, three rows of bricks are laid out with an “edge” - one under the wall, the second in the middle, and the third at the edge.

Step three. Masonry is being made for a furnace 25 cm high up to the very brick screen, in the upper part of it (masonry) must be blocked. In place of the immediate location of the furnace, you do not need to put the last two bricks - so fresh air will go into the furnace itself. The end must be laid with a brick.

Step four. The convection box must be brought to the end. A blower is installed on its end. It is necessary to put something under it, otherwise it will constantly rub against the floor when opening / closing etc.

Step four. After the construction of the podium, you can install the oven. This is best done on special metal corners, which will evenly distribute the load on the box. It remains only to overlay the oven and install a screen with several holes. These holes will be ventilation, which will allow you to warm the room with hot air.

Second phase. Outflow ventilation

We have already considered the construction technology of the main heat pump. It remains only to take care of the outflow of air. Perfect option- install the outflow box diagonally with respect to the inlet, which will allow you to ventilate the steam room as efficiently as possible.

Step one. If the brick shirt of one of the walls goes, for example, into the rest room, then you just need to bring out another door there. So you can kill two birds with one stone: take the air out of the steam room and heat the dressing room (of course, if the box is installed correctly).

Step two. Box construction. This box must be made with an area of 125 cm² (+ 10%) and installed approximately 30 cm above the floor surface. Next, the ventilation duct should go through the wall to the ceiling and go outside.

Note! For the construction of the structure, you can use ready-made ventilation ducts, sheathing them with clapboard after assembly. So the products will look more natural, not differing from the general background.

About heating and ventilation

If the lower doors are open during the operation of the furnace, then the air, penetrating through them, warms up and leaves the room through the upper ones (but not completely - some of it drops and heats up again). The lower door should be opened even before the oven is melted in order to ensure its “acceleration”.

At the same time, the steam room will heat up until the hot air reaches the bottom of the box, after which it will begin to squeeze out cooler air, which, in turn, comes out and heats everything that comes in its way. This is how the steam room is ventilated and heated at the same time, and this is how proper ventilation should function.

Note! The convection doors open every time someone is in the steam room. These doors, being connected to neighboring rooms, warm them up.

As a conclusion

Few people know that when insulating a chimney in a bath, they deprive themselves of another source of heat. Of course, you should not leave a red-hot chimney in a “bare” form, you need to make a brick casing around it, building a blower door on the second row. And if you equip a second door on top, then a real heat pump will come out, which will both warm up and ventilate the room.

Video - Do-it-yourself steam room

Baths have always been famous for their healing properties. But in order to obtain a healing effect, it is necessary not only to listen to the advice of doctors, but also to organize the correct ventilation system in your own bath.

Those who have been in the classic rustic baths made of wood are unlikely to remember the presence in such paired exhaust vents. In fact, they are not there. After all, a small amount of fresh air entering the bath from cracks in the floor, window or doorway, can provide the needs of 2-3 people.

But a bathhouse designed for a large capacity, and even more so a brick one, must necessarily be equipped with a ventilation system to fulfill the following important points:

fresh air intake, which prevents the accumulation of carbon dioxide in the steam room and preserves the health of people in the bath;
air circulation, which allows you to dry the room after bath procedures. This prevents the appearance of unpleasant odors in the bath, the growth of mold fungi and helps to increase the life of the building without the need to replace wood elements;
uniform distribution of heated air in the steam room of the bath.

Moreover, if the hood is arranged correctly, it should not lead to the following unpleasant consequences:

to a drop in temperature in the steam room during bath procedures;
violation of the correct stratification of air by temperature - the coolest layer should be at the bottom;
removal from the steam room of clean air, and not saturated with carbon dioxide.

It is easy to breathe in a steam room with good ventilation, and it is pleasant to relax

How is bath ventilation

It is correct to provide for the bath ventilation system even at the construction stage, because it is at this moment that you can make the hood correctly and independently with the least labor and material costs. In addition, the process of making holes in the finished structure can lead to a decrease in the strength of the walls.

Air exchange in a bath is provided by means of two openings.

The supply opening is located at the bottom and provides fresh air to the bath.
The exhaust opening is located at the top on the wall opposite the supply opening. Thanks to the exhaust, the exhaust air is removed from the steam room. However, if the opening is located very close to the ceiling, then hot air is quickly removed from the room, which leads to a decrease in the temperature of the steam room.

This design allows you to adjust the direction of the air flow. At the moment when the bath is heated, all three holes are in a closed state. When people are steaming, the supply and lower exhaust openings are open. After bath procedures, all ventilation is in the open state, which allows you to dry the bath well.

Ventilation in the bath can be mechanical. In it, the air in the steam room circulates thanks to the injection equipment. In a more complex and expensive version, special devices monitor the air supply process, which, if necessary, start the ventilation system. The use of a mechanical hood allows you to place holes on any of the walls, as well as correct errors in the organization natural ventilation.

In any case, to ensure air exchange in the bath, there are several exhaust schemes that differ from each other in the location of the holes.

Video - Ventilation in a bath with an oven - air conditioning

Methods for ventilation in the bath

Let's describe some of the most popular and simple ways to arrange ventilation in a steam room. They can be either with the use of fans, or carried out in a completely natural way.

Method 1

This is the one described above natural ventilation scheme with one inlet and two outlets. The inlet in such a system is made in the wall immediately behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor surface.

To connect the outlets to each other, a box is used, which is made of wooden planks, a corrugated pipe about one meter long is laid in it. The holes themselves are provided with plugs that allow you to adjust the air flow, as described above. In addition to the plugs, you will also need gratings to prevent insects and rodents from entering the bath through ventilation.

This system is applicable for small baths.

Method 2

This is another simple and most common scheme for ventilating the bath space. In it, the supply hole is located behind the stove just above the floor (about 0.3 m). The hood is located at the same height, but on the opposite wall and is equipped with a fan that forcibly draws out the exhaust air.

Method 3

Method 3 is somewhat similar to the previous one. Only the air inlet is arranged at a height of half a meter from the heater, and the outlet is just above the floor (about 0.2 m). The hood is equipped with a fan.

Method 4

Method 4 is used for baths in which the steam room has only one wall facing the street. In this system, air inlet and outlet openings are located on the same wall opposite the stove. Air enters into the lower hole, located at a height of 30 cm from the floor, and exits into the upper one, which is located 30 cm below the ceiling and is equipped with a fan.

Clean air enters the room, collides with the stove, heats up, rises and is directed through the outlet to the outside.

Method 5

Method 5 is suitable for baths in which there are small gaps of half a centimeter between the floor boards. The inlet is located behind the stove. The cooled and exhausted air descends to the floor and exits through cracks in the underground, where there is an exhaust hole in the basement wall, connected to a ventilation pipe that discharges air flows above the roof.

Method 6

If in your steam room the stove is heated for the entire period of the bath, then the blower can itself perform the function of ventilation, or rather, the hood. In this case, only an air inflow hole is needed, which is located near the floor opposite the stove. The blower should be slightly lower than the finished floor.

Step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation

When arranging a bath with ventilation, it is important to observe the following conditions:

if the bath is adjacent to a residential building, then the air flow should go in the direction from the housing to the steam room;
the exhaust hole is connected to a box or pipe, which is necessarily brought out above the roof of the bath;
the hood should not be done over the shelves in order to exclude the effects of a draft on steamed people.

In general, the ventilation installation process can be described as follows.

Step 1

In selected places, at the construction stage, or prepare after construction, inlet and outlet openings, the cross section of which should be 10-20 cm.

Step 2

Prepared holes are equipped with boxes made of metal, plastic or wood.

Step 3

Install an exhaust fan if necessary.

Note! For baths, it is necessary to use ventilation equipment made of heat-resistant material and with a protection class of at least IP-44.

Step 4

Mounted on grille holes and plugs.

Step 5

The outlet is connected to a pipe that is led out above the roof.

Note! In addition to ventilation of the room, it is necessary to ensure air circulation under the floor. To do this, at the construction stage, holes are made in the basement on opposite sides, which are covered with gratings to protect against rodents.

In such simple ways, you can arrange bath ventilation, ensuring a long service life of the steam room and a comfortable stay in it.

Video - Ventilation scheme in the bath

To the question of what a bath should be, any person will answer the same way: hot and “light”. This is an obvious fact for everyone. Therefore, the majority approaches the process of insulation with all responsibility, using all kinds of methods and materials to ensure maximum heat retention inside. It is not surprising that this creates the effect of a thermos.

They don’t provide the second component of an excellent bath, they miss it and wonder why the “steam” failed, and instead of a healing effect, the opposite result was obtained. Unfortunately, even experienced people forget about such an important point as.

But its significance should not be overestimated: during the heating of the furnace, oxygen burns out, and instead of it, CO2 is released, under the influence of which high chance of "burning out". Our blood is supersaturated with carbon monoxide, there is a possibility of disorientation or loss of consciousness (not to mention the more unfortunate consequences). Therefore, a system is needed that provides oxygen supply and additionally regulates the temperature regime inside the steam room.

In addition to the functions of replenishing oxygen, ventilation allows you to dry the building, stopping the negative effects of excess moisture and steam, which can lead to the appearance of mold or rot on the structures, as well as bad smell or feeling musty. Lack of exhaust can destroy wood in just 2-3 seasons.

A ventilation device is required in any baths, not only brick and block ones, wooden ones are no less demanding for drying. An exception may be baths with slots, but here they cannot be called baths: they will not retain heat.

REFERENCE. Of particular note is the possibility of using natural ventilation, which does not require the use of expensive materials and equipment (however, it is also not worth leaving a gap on purpose). How to organize this process we will tell in this article. We will not ignore the device of the forced supply and exhaust system.

Ventilation in the bath in the steam room: why is it necessary?

Above, we have already talked about the danger of a closed environment from the point of view of the impact carbon monoxide, and also mentioned the need to create a microclimate for drying the steam room after its use. Ventilation in the bath, in the steam room will definitely increase the comfort of staying there and extend the life of the building.

A distinctive feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. At the same time, the temperature regime also varies, which is lower than that of the sauna. However, warm air saturated with moisture warms up much faster. human body and has a softer and more gentle effect (there is no spasmodic effect on blood vessels, it can be visited by the elderly and children).

The device of the furnace is quite specific: as a rule, stones are placed inside, access to them can be obtained by opening the door. This ensures that the stones retain heat for a longer time, and they are more difficult to pour, even with inept water consumption.

Ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath. The most important thing is to keep the balance, because the steam has a “shocking” character, escaping from the stove immediately after water has been splashed on the heater. If it is not designed correctly, then you can miss all the steam.

In the Russian steam room, vents are most often used, which are installed at the bottom of the walls and ensure the safety of the heat that accumulates near the ceiling.

Ventilation in the steam room: requirements

When ventilation is designed in a steam room, the requirements for it are simple. You must adhere to the following rules:

coolness should be near the floor, and heat near the ceiling;
even temperature level, without fluctuations;
The “exhausted” air must be replaced with fresh, enriched oxygen.

Ventilation in the steam room: device

It is based on the laws of physics: the influx of fresh air from below displaces hot air from above through the corresponding holes, thereby ensuring air exchange. In this case, a rarefaction of air occurs (pressure decreases), and cool air is drawn in. It, in turn, gradually heats up, rushes up, and further along the cycle. This is how ventilation works in a steam room, its device is quite simple. More .

Natural or forced?

In order to answer the question: natural or forced ventilation for a steam room - it should be disassembled in each of the types.

Natural the microclimate is formed independently in the presence of planned vents (openings), or slots, when the processes of air convection described above start in the building.

The advantages include: low cost of implementation, the absence of extraneous noise / vibration from working devices and the use of natural features. Possible difficulties: errors in the placement of holes, as a result: lack of traction (the opposite - the appearance of excessive drafts); the penetration of extraneous (with a high degree of probability - unpleasant) odors from the street.

Forced ventilation system uses equipment and materials that create artificial air movement in the required direction. Regulated by special control units. This is a very expensive solution that requires competent design and further implementation. When properly placed, it is guaranteed to provide a measured circulation of air currents.

Meet combined types for a bath: steam room ventilation, combining both of these areas and having the pros and cons of each option.

If you decide to do ventilation on your own, but it is better to stop at natural - it is more in line with the spirit of the bath than the use of intricate devices. However, we do not dissuade you from using forced supply and exhaust ventilation.

Ventilation in the steam room of the bath: scheme

Ventilation in the steam room of the bath - system diagram. It consists of two openings: one of which is inlet, and the other is exhaust (you can make several exits). When choosing the size of the exhaust opening, you must be guided by several rules:

the largest should be at the maximum distance from the furnace(so that the heat does not go outside in a forward flow);
the rest can be launched around the perimeter of the ceiling;
the size of the holes is calculated based on 24 square meters. see for each cubic meter premises. Most often, the diameter does not exceed 30 cm, but the number is 2 or more.

The traction force is determined by the height difference between the supply and exhaust openings.

IMPORTANT! Do not place the holes exactly opposite each other, this will inevitably cause drafts.

Ventilation in the steam room of the Russian bath: scheme

Ventilation is provided in the steam room of the Russian bath by a scheme in which there are vents with adjustable plugs, taking into account the above rules. Or the use of salvo ventilation, which we will discuss later.

Bath: ventilation of the steam room (if the oven is in the dressing room or rest room)

About the bath, ventilation of the steam room, in which the stove is located in a different room than the steam room, you will most likely have to think about forced ventilation, which will ensure the movement of the flow in the right direction.

As shown in the diagram:

Sauna: ventilation of the steam room (if the oven is in the steam room or the steam room is connected to the washing room)

It is provided by heating the cold air coming from the outside from the furnace and pushing it away from the heat source, and returning it back after hitting the walls. Air movement can be stimulated by the use of additional fans.

For a bath, ventilation of a steam room - the organization of drying a bath is especially important, since the water in the washing room can have a truly destructive effect on Decoration Materials and gender. In addition to the main one, enhanced floor ventilation is required: by installing an exhaust opening between the finished and subfloor, the installation can be accompanied by the installation of a fan.

REFERENCE. Make sure that the fan does not get water in order to eliminate the risk of a short circuit.

More than 10 different bath ventilation schemes.

Where to place supply and exhaust openings

There are several simple rules– where to place supply and exhaust openings:

the supply air (from which freshness comes) should be located below, closer to the floor;
exhaust - located away from the stove, closer to the ceiling.

Wherein it is desirable to place the supply opening near the furnace so that in the cold season the air warms up a little before entering the steam room.

The height at which the holes are placed is about 30 centimeters: from the floor or ceiling.

Will be effective installation supply valves in the foundation (under the floor). The use of a valve system or the installation of an additional protective grille on the opening will protect you from the possible penetration of rodents. In this case, it is better to lay the floor with small gaps for freer access of oxygen. If you want a smooth and even floor, then you can get by with special ventilation windows that can be covered with decorative wooden gratings.

IMPORTANT! When placing the valve on the foundation, it is necessary to ensure that freshness is taken from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise unpleasant odors will come along with the air.

Common layouts include:

for baths with continuous oven: the inlet opposite the stove is 30 centimeters from the floor, and the furnace blower will play the role of an exhaust hood;
for baths with poured floors: air inlet 30 cm from the floor behind the firebox, and “working out” leaves after cooling through the cracks in the floor;
the location of both holes on the same wall: opposite the stove, but one is near the floor, and the second is near the ceiling. A fan is installed at the exit. Justified where the wall with holes faces the street.
hole arrangement at the same height but on opposite walls(do not output in one line!), The fan is installed in the same way. It is considered not very effective, since the heat will go outside almost immediately, and the drying of the room will be faster due to the open door.

Wall ventilation in a steam frame bath

Frame wall pie. More about insulation frame walls see .

It is carried out by leaving a ventilated gap between the finishing materials and the vapor barrier, it can reach 5 cm. Ventilation of the walls in the steam room frame bath provided with a counter-lattice. Corrugations ventilation system should be designed in advance to place the insulation with the calculation of the place for the pipes.

What can not be used for ventilation in the steam room?

Refuse to use plastic elements:

corrugation;
boxes;
plugs.

This is something that cannot be used for ventilation in the steam room - they do not withstand high temperatures, they will melt, releasing harmful substances and acquiring an unaesthetic appearance.

But in the washing room or dressing room, their use is not forbidden.

Only wood can be used as plugs for vents or hatches: metal can burn from heat or rust from moisture.

Economy solution: volley ventilation in a Russian steam bath

If you are not sure that you can correctly calculate the size of the entrances (exits) or their location, you can use the long-tried method - an economy solution: salvo ventilation in a Russian steam bath.

The essence of its application is to quickly ventilate by opening windows and doors wide open. They are opened to a short time(no more than 1-2 minutes), for maximum effect, it is best to use the opposite window and door.

This method does not require any financial costs: you use the elements that are in any bath.

IMPORTANT! Do not overdo it with ventilation, you can chill the bath a lot. This method is especially good for Russian baths, which are heated in black.

Do I need to hire specialists for calculation and design

If you want a proper, “easy” and hassle-free sauna, steam room ventilation plays an important role: from the longevity of the sauna to your own safety.

If a the bath room is combined with the house, has a rest room or dressing room into which the stove is brought out, or there are other reasons for using forced exhaust, then the answer to the question “do I need to hire specialists for calculation and design” will be unambiguous: it is necessary.

Otherwise, you can make a mistake in an insignificant detail, and the purchased calculation equipment for this reason will not work. And this, in turn, will cause additional costs.

In addition, in order not to violate the structure of the structure, it is better to design the ventilation of the steam room in advance, before the bath is erected, especially when the air inlet must be located on the foundation. Installing a ventilation system in an already built building is a troublesome and time-consuming process. It will require disassembly of almost all finishing materials, freeing up space for corrugations and so on.

During construction brick bath you can’t do without preliminary preparation at all, because not only wooden finishing materials are required, but also wall material - brick, which (some types, for example, silicate) is prone to absorption a large number water.

Conclusion

Ventilation and renewal of the internal climate are in any case necessary - this is the final conclusion, it is necessary, among other things, to ensure comfort when using the bath. The choice of natural or forced is up to you. We hope that, taking into account our material, you will be able to find the most suitable solution for yourself.

Check out for completeness: and.

Article in sections:

Ventilation in the bath is not only comfort, but also an urgent need. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

In the process, it is important so that no one gets burned. The danger of carbon monoxide poisoning is always present - it is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bath.
Besides air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes "waste", and it must be removed, replacing it with a new one, with a greater proportion of oxygen.
regulate the temperature, monitoring the condition of people, you can also use ventilation, especially when you need to do it urgently.
Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it needs ventilation. And with a competent device, you can also get fuel economy.
And, finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungus and decay.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and diverse in design. Of course, the question can be reduced to financial investments, but in reality you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the best solution in each case. We will consider all the possibilities and features of the device.

The ventilation system in the bath: what can it be?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided at once according to several parameters:

forced or natural;
exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
local or public.

Let us explain that the forced one differs from the natural one by the presence of fans that forcibly drive air in or out, the local one differs from the general exchange one in its local character, for example, the chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and the vents are part of the general exchange.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combination, these are indications of which air is directed where: the exhaust drives the exhaust air out, the supply air drives fresh air in, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse that has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video, as one of the options for organizing ventilation in the bath:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you can not install any devices at all, there are enough ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others - exhaust.

And in the bath there is a stove, and this is a very favorable circumstance for the direction of air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the blower, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Also, traction is improved by raising the finished floor just above the hole under the firebox.

The exhaust opening is usually made on the side that is opposite the wall with the supply opening, but this is not the only option.

Forced ventilation

If fans are placed in the same holes, then you can not be afraid of calmness or other weather conditions that adversely affect the air circulation in the bath.

In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the circuit itself, it is only a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can not put them everywhere, reinforcing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only good.

IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan drives the air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan in the supply opening and vice versa.

Bath ventilation device: principles of operation

Bath ventilation can be conditionally divided into permanently functioning (roofing, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacement of exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice, flow directions also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust holes can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.

Regardless of the location, the air inlets are always lower than the exhaust ones. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where does the air come from, where should it go?. If we take from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.

The calculation of the area of ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume needs a window with an area of 24 cm². Windows in no case are made directly opposite each other at the same height.

When the bath warms up, the vents in the foundation close, the dampers in the steam room move.
During soaring, the windows open slightly as needed.
After completion of the procedures, the bath is ventilated entirely.

Also prepared to help you (10+ different schemes).

Bastu ventilation in the bath

Bastu-type ventilation, named after convection Swedish baths, is gaining more and more popularity in Russian baths. It is easy to make and highly effective.

The air flow under the furnace is carried out using a ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, a damper is required that would block it.

For air outflow, a box is mounted, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonally from the furnace. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.

So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters the room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out from there if there is an exit. A working furnace actively sucks in cold air from the supply air duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises, heating up along the way from the stove. The excess volume in parallel begins to leave through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air is in the breathing zone, and the exhaust is at the bottom and leaves.

Video

See how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:

Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “turned off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the stove must work, because it is she who is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the bastu ventilation in the bath will not work.

Bastu ventilation is ideally used in the sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in the Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although you can put the bass in it, there are restrictions on its use.

Bastu ventilation in a Russian bath

Russian banya is not too high temperature and plenty of steam. Under such conditions bastu ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while soaring.

But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the bastu will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to "turn on" the bass at the last stage soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. Great ending to a run.

Bastu in the Russian bath useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no smells, no mold with such drying.

Bath floor ventilation

The floor in the bath needs to be completely dried after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of the correct flow, with a slope that will divert water into the sewer. Of course, there are several floor options.

For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, the gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only to drain water, but also to dry the boards. And the opening of the air in the foundation will help in this, which we will discuss below.

A dry floor does not imply gaps between the boards, because it is mounted from a tongue-and-groove board. So, the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. It will be necessary to dry from above by means of salvo ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system that is provided in the bath, for example, forced supply and exhaust.

Useful video

Look at what dampness can lead to on a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:

The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects the ventilation of the floor.

And the floor is well blown during the operation of the furnace, if (as already mentioned), raise its level above the blower, and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.

Bath foundation ventilation

Actually, everything starts with it, because it is mounted when laying the foundation. To do this, scraps of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and in this form are laid among the reinforcement, fastened with a knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground. After stripping, the sand is removed.

There can be two such holes in total, laid on opposite sides of the base. However, in reality, one must take into account whole line various factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.

Useful video

See what the lack of ventilation for floor and foundation ventilation can lead to:

Before designing ventilation, take into account:

remoteness of the bath from the reservoir;
location (on a hill or in a lowland);
surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
wind rose of this section;
bath area.

It is clear that if the bath in the lowland or around solid buildings, you need to do more holes and even from all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but put a grille-blinds or damper.

CAREFULLY! Rodents can get into unprotected vents, so it is recommended to also tighten them with a metal mesh.

Holes provided with plugs are usually left closed during procedures, but they are opened to dry.

Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:

Due to differences in the temperature and humidity conditions of each of the bath rooms, ventilation in them is organized differently.

sinks

The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and supplied with a deflector from above. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof, the air tends to the outside, carrying excess moisture with it.

The reason why you have to bring it to the roof is simple: if moist air is immediately driven out into the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.

steam rooms

attic

Attic ventilation is a special song. It is done at the stage of installation of the roof.

1- ceiling 2- spotlights 3- roof ridge

IMPORTANT! It is not true that for attic ventilation it is enough for a window on the pediment. These windows will not replace the supply and exhaust system in the roof.

Supply holes are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and the upper part of the wall, where the rafters rest on the Mauerplate), and exhaust holes are made on the ridge. There should also be openings on the gables, but they are small and very high.

It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of \u200b\u200bthe attic. It is optimal that the first be 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50, exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than supply.

This system is suitable for those baths in which the attic is cold. And there are also baths with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.

For ventilation of the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for the functioning of both, aerators and spotlights are needed.

Aerators are installed either on the area of the roof slope, or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for the flow of air. These are siding panels for sheathing roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of the ventilation holes and the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.

IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only ordinary or only ridge aerators.

Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Particular attention is paid to the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.

baths in the basement or basement of the house

Part of the owners country houses takes a basement or basement under the bath. Such an arrangement of a hot and humid room makes special demands on ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.

Note that the redevelopment of the former residential or utility premises includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, it is more expensive than the bath included in the project of a house under construction.

One way or another, you need do not forget about the ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensate. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a basement deflector.

The location of the basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.

A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it's not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was mentioned above.

shower

If there is a shower cabin or an open shower in the bath, it is worth installing forced ventilation nearby, which will speed up the drying process.

If we assume that the air flow is provided by the existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can put the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. (You can do the same if there is a bathroom in the bath.)

dressing room

The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bath. So ventilation in it is necessary in the same way as everywhere else in the bath. One air is located at the bottom, the other at the top. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper - for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room with the help of a door and (if any) a window.

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Why do we need a ventilation system in a Russian bath? Here's a simple explanation: inside you are surrounded by hot steamy air. When breathing, a person consumes oxygen and releases carbon dioxide. Therefore, in the absence of normal ventilation, you can simply suffocate from a lack of oxygen. Professional builders often say that a ventilation system is not required in a brick bath. But this does not mean at all that the flow of air from the outside is not needed at all, but indicates the presence of it. natural circulation and that no additional costs are required to ensure the supply of oxygen to the room.

The need for ventilation in the bath

In those days when the very concept of "ventilation" did not yet exist, baths, like all other buildings, were built without the use of any special measures to provide fresh air. But there were objective reasons for this. The main material in the construction then was wood, the lower part of the crown was free. At the same time, air entered the bath through the cracks between the logs. The temperature inside the bath was regulated simply by opening or closing the door. So simple and pretty effective way provided by our ancestors.

Previously, doors and windows were simply opened to ventilate bath rooms.

Currently, in the construction of baths, other building materials and technologies are often used, which leads to a different approach to the design of engineering systems. If a ventilation system is not initially provided for in the bath project, negative consequences may make themselves felt in the very near future. First of all, this is the premature destruction of materials that provide thermal insulation of the premises. When ventilation is of low efficiency, after a fairly short time it will be necessary to replace both the insulation and facing materials walls and floors.

The change in air temperature in a wide range and its high humidity are the main factors that determine the wear of the materials used. In addition, it may appear bad smell, since the existing microclimate inside the bath contributes to the appearance of mold and fungi. Without use chemicals it is impossible to remove this smell, but their use in the bath is unacceptable. Well, and most importantly - in the absence of a sufficient flow of air from the outside, the concentration of carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide) and carbon dioxide (carbon dioxide) quickly increases inside the room, and this, as we have already said, can lead to poisoning people.

AT small room steam room without supply ventilation you can suffocate

Putting it all together, one can easily understand that instead of a healing effect, a completely opposite result is obtained. The above factors are enough to prove the importance of an effective ventilation system in the bath.

Rules for arranging ventilation in the bath

There are the following schemes of the applied ventilation systems:

natural, in which the occurrence of air movement is due to the presence of a natural pressure drop outside and inside the room;
mechanical, which is created special devices operating in automatic mode;
combined, appearing due to the pressure drop created by the supply of excess air by the fan.

In this case, it is necessary not only to supply air inside, but also to remove it from the room, which is ensured by installing ducts in the opposite direction from the inflow channel.

A ventilation system is also required in other areas of the bath, such as a shower room, dressing room and relaxation room.

Natural ventilation occurs due to the fact that cold air from outside the room displaces warmer air, and it goes up through specially created channels.

The floor must also be ventilated due to the fact that moisture always gets on it. If you haven't ventilated your floor well, get ready to replace it every 4-5 years. To ensure a long service life, it is necessary to make vents in opposite corners of the plinth, as well as ventilation holes in opposite walls to ensure air inflow and outflow. To protect against rodents and other small animals, cover floor vents and wall openings with bars. When installing the stove, be sure to ensure that the level of the clean floor is above the blower of the stove, thereby creating a hood effect. Flooring must be carried out with gaps between the boards of at least 5 mm. And after you finish using the bath, you must definitely dry the room.

One of the popular ways is Bast ventilation, when fresh air enters through the hole under the stove, and is removed through the hole under the ceiling, located opposite the doors. In this case, a wooden box lined with foil is used.

With any variant of the ventilation system, certain rules always work to ensure full air circulation and high level microclimate comfort. One of the simplest options is to install two channels - inlet and outlet, the cross section of which is determined based on the following requirements: for each square meter the area of the room requires a channel with a cross section of 24 cm 2. Very often, experts deliberately underestimate the cross section of the channels, explaining this step by reducing heat loss. However, this entails only a violation of the normal operation of ventilation. To speed up the outflow of air, it is allowed to install two exhaust ducts or one line of a larger cross section. The channels can be located either opposite each other or on the same wall, but at different angles.

The gaps between the floorboards can serve as ventilation holes in the floor.

In the process of preparing the bath, a large air circulation is not required, as this reduces the rate of heating of the premises. To reduce it, install plugs on the channels or close the dampers.

In the case where materials with high air permeability are used, the floor boards should be laid with a gap of 2–3 mm between them. The air will freely pass through the cracks and thereby carry out the function of drying and ventilation.

When designing the system, it is foreseen that the air supply must be mainly provided by the intake from the outside of the room, otherwise the formation of an unpleasant odor cannot be avoided.

Exhaust ducts must be made only of metal or wood. If plastic is used, when it is heated, toxic substances will be released, and the service life at high temperatures of such boxes is very short. They are only allowed to be used in locker rooms and showers.

Exhaust ducts can be made of metal or wood

Schemes of the device of ventilation ducts in the bath

Ventilation ducts under the floors must be made immediately at the protective sheet of metal in front of the stove. And the ratio of the dimensions of the box and the chimney should be about 1–1.2. This system has its advantages, as it provides easy adjustment of the air flow and does not allow the appearance of odor in the steam room. In the case when the stove is located directly inside the steam room, this type of ventilation is most suitable. In this case, the system turns out to be much more complicated, since two boxes are used - the first one provides air ventilation, and the second one supplies air for burning wood in the stove. In this case, the channels can be placed in the foundation, on which the furnace will be installed in the future.

The ventilation option must be chosen with great care, as this affects the level of comfort inside the room.

There are several options for arranging ventilation in the bath:

Depending on the configuration of the bath rooms, different ways location of ventilation holes

Preparing to install a ventilation system

After deciding on the use of a particular scheme of the ventilation system, it is required to complete its drawing. Using a simple pencil and a ruler on a sheet of paper, mark the locations of all inlet and outlet channels, as well as ducts for organizing air flows.
When designing ventilation ducts take into account the following requirements:

inlet and outlet ducts must be the same length. Otherwise, a sufficient level of air circulation will not be provided;
the cross-sectional size of all channels must also be the same;
it is impossible to have the inlet and outlet channels at the same level opposite each other, because in this case there will be no air circulation.

After drawing up the drawing, markup is carried out inside the room. Using a tape measure and a marker mark the location of the channels. Holes in walls and partitions between rooms are easily made with a special crown using an electric drill.

On the drawing, you need to indicate the dimensions of the room and the exact location of all ventilation openings

For the manufacture of ventilation systems, ordinary plastic plumbing or sewer pipe or a special galvanized metal pipe with a diameter of not more than 10 centimeters. An umbrella made of the same galvanized metal is installed on the exhaust pipe that goes to the roof of the bath to protect it from getting inside the system of precipitation.

Inlet channels that are at or near the ground require gratings to keep out rodents and other small animals.
We should not forget about such useful things as dampers, which are used to manually adjust the air circulation. The dampers can be mounted on ventilation ducts as an independent part of the structure.

The ventilation hole is conveniently equipped with a damper, thanks to which you can independently regulate the air flow

Calculation of ventilation for baths of different sizes

When calculating the required section of the ventilation duct box, a well-known ratio is used: for each cubic meter of the volume of the premises, a ventilation duct (inlet and outlet) with a cross section of 24 cm 2 is required. Often used standard sewer pipelines made of polyethylene and having a diameter of 10 cm (radius of the pipeline is 5 cm). The cross-sectional area of such a pipe is 3.14x5 2 \u003d 78.5 cm 2. In order to calculate how much ventilation of a room can be provided by one box with such a cross section, the resulting value of the box section must be divided by 24 cm 2. We get: 78.5 / 24 \u003d 3.27 m 3.

Through the ventilation pipe brought outside, the air from the premises will be vented to the street, giving way to fresh air.

Suppose that in the bathhouse the steam room has dimensions of 2x2 m, and the dressing room - 1x2 m. The height of the ceilings is the same everywhere and is 2 m. The total volume of the premises is 2x2x2 + 1x2x2 = 12 m 3. Now we determine how many inlet channels will be required to ensure full ventilation of the premises when using a sewer pipeline: 12/3.27=3.7. We take the value equal to 4. That is, it is necessary to perform four input channels.

After determining the location of the channels, marking, drilling of holes and installation of boxes is done.

Vent sizes

The cross-sectional area of ventilation ducts depends on the size of the bath rooms: dressing rooms, steam rooms, showers and rest rooms. An important point is not only the correct determination of the cross sections of the channels, but also the provision of the possibility of their adjustment. To do this, the installation of plugs or valves is provided.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that with a large cross section of the channels, heating the premises to the required temperature and then maintaining it will be a rather difficult task. main reason this is the absence or difficulty of adjusting the flow sections of the input channels.

The cross-sectional area of ventilation ducts is calculated from the already mentioned ratio: 24 cm 2 per 1 m 3 of the room. To ensure circulation, the exhaust channel can be made slightly larger than the inlet.

If the size of the channels is below the required values, there will be a problem with overheating of the premises and with an excess of the concentration of harmful gases.

Required Tools

The following tools are required for mounting the ventilation system components:

electric drill;
crown for wood / metal with a diameter of 100 mm;
construction gun under a tube with sealant.

Step-by-step instructions: how to make ventilation in the bath with your own hands

The process of installing ventilation in the bath depends on the type of room in which the work is carried out.

The dressing room should be warm, dry and have enough fresh air. For this, only one outlet ventilation duct is usually installed in it. To increase air circulation, a fan is brought into it. The channel is most often performed opposite the door to the steam room at a height of no more than 50 cm above the floor. Additionally, the ventilation duct is equipped with a plug that closes when the bath is not in use.

In the case when the furnace door and the furnace blower are located in the dressing room, an inlet channel is also required, which provides air supply from the outside to the furnace. Typically, such a channel is mounted below the level of the finishing floor of the dressing room. Installation is carried out before the boards are laid on the floor. Outside, a grate must be installed at the entrance.

In the dressing room, most often they install only one outlet ventilation duct or simply open the window

How to make ventilation in the steam room of the bath

The operation of the ventilation system of the steam room has its own characteristics compared to other rooms, since inside it climatic conditions pretty extreme. Despite the fact that ventilation ducts are usually covered or completely closed during procedures, ventilation must still be present to saturate the room with oxygen, remove carbon dioxide, ensure uniform heating, and other tasks. For example, one of the most effective and common systems for steam rooms is Bastu ventilation.

With a Bastu-type ventilation device, fans and pumps are installed in the steam room

Video: installation of ventilation valves in the steam room

How to make a hole in the wall of a log house

The whole process consists of several steps:

If the wall is made multilayer due to insulation, then the hole is made as follows:

The drill makes a hole through.
Then the channel of the required diameter is marked.
Along the entire length of the marked circle, holes of small diameter are drilled.
Next, the jumpers are removed with a chisel or jigsaw and the internal fragments are removed.

Video: how to drill a hole in a wooden wall

Installation of pipes and gratings

For the manufacture of ventilation ducts, it is better to use pipelines made of galvanized metal. If plastic pipes are used, they must be designed for operation at elevated temperatures in order to avoid destruction of the material.

A sliding box, grate or fan can be inserted into the vent

The installation process itself consists of several stages:

The pipe is wrapped in heat-insulating material and installed in the hole made. The gaps between the wall and the pipe are filled with sealant or mounting foam to provide protection against moisture penetration.
Next, protective grilles are attached using self-tapping screws or industrial moisture-resistant glue.

In order to assess the performance of the ventilation channel, it is enough to bring a lit match, candle or smoldering wick to it. By the direction and speed of smoke movement, one can determine the efficiency of the installed ventilation ducts. If the air speed is insufficient, it is recommended to install fans in the ducts.

Video: Bastu ventilation in the bath

Still not sure if a ventilation system is required in the bath? And you don’t need to think, it is definitely required. But remember that the choice of ventilation system scheme will be determined based on many aspects of the design of the bath itself, as well as the personal preference of the owner.