Insulation of wooden frame walls. What insulation is better to use for a frame house

20.06.2020

Gathered in a fairly short time, using the minimum labor resources. However, with all its advantages, it still has one small drawback. If you do not make high-quality insulation of walls and roofs, it will be possible to use it only in the summer, since it will not be suitable for year-round operation in our climate.

Insulation of a frame house - types of materials

The modern market offers a huge selection building materials for warming frame houses. Based on the foregoing, it is very important that the insulation retains its functionality for more than a dozen years, for this it is necessary to use only high-quality material.

Currently, thermal insulation materials are conventionally divided into two categories - organic and synthetic.

The former include natural materials of natural origin ( sawdust and shavings, compressed straw, etc.).
The second category includes types of insulation obtained by a high-tech production method, using various chemical components and compositions for this, namely: mineral wool, foam plastic, basaltin, and others.

The excellent thermal insulation properties of synthetic materials make them the undisputed winners in this group. They boast features such as:

good moisture resistance;
low thermal conductivity and flammability level;
no shrinkage and long service life;
ease of use;
safety for a person.

Home insulation is the most popular and well-established method. The material has an excellent sound absorption rate, retains heat well, and also has a high environmental friendliness class.

Wall insulation inside and out

There is no particular difference from where to start work on the insulation of a frame house, from the inside or outside. It's more convenient for someone here. For example, it is a little easier to install insulation from the street, but there is a risk that it may start to rain and then the work will have to be curtailed for a while.

Standard mineral wool insulation has a width of 600 mm. Therefore, when building a frame, this moment must be taken into account. In order for the material to fit snugly against the uprights, perfect size the step between them is 580-590 mm. Such a distance will not allow the insulation to slide down over time, as it will be tightly clamped.

According to the established norms, the thickness of insulation for a structure in the central region of Russia is 150 mm. Therefore, it would be advisable to use plates with a thickness of 100 and 50 mm.

Thus, instead of three plates, two will be enough in the design, thereby significantly reducing labor costs. Also material in 100 mm. less prone to deflection and therefore more securely attached to the structure.

Fastening vapor barrier and OSB boards

In order to prevent moisture from entering the insulation, it must be well protected from it. For this with inside the wooden walls of the frame must be covered with a vapor barrier film. Using a regular stapler, roll out a roll horizontal stripes and fasten it with an overlap 5 cm. to vertical posts. Make sure that the film is firmly attached to the surface everywhere;
Next, we need to close the vapor barrier film with OSB boards, which will be the base under interior decoration. Using ordinary wood screws and a screwdriver, we fasten the panels one by one, if necessary, cutting them with an electric jigsaw.

Insulation installation

Consider, as an example, the insulation of the frame with slabs based on mineral (stone) wool. The material is quite elastic, therefore, for its fixation, an additional method of fastening is not required, it is enough just to insert it between the uprights. The plates must be tightly held there due to the difference in size.

Installation of insulation is carried out in two layers, using a checkerboard pattern. The second should overlap the butt joints of the first, exactly in the middle. This method avoids the appearance of so-called "cold bridges", which contribute to the appearance of condensate and dampness on the inner surface. finishing which can lead to mold and mildew.

After all the slabs have been installed, they will need to be protected from rain and strong winds. To do this, by analogy with the internal walls, the external ones are sheathed in the same way.

The material used is a hydro-windproof membrane, it will reliably protect the walls from drafts and raindrops getting inside. To securely connect the membrane, fix it to the posts with a counter-batten.

Wall cladding outside

Depending on the material you choose for finishing, you need to properly prepare the base for it. For ordinary siding or a block house, moisture-resistant OSB boards are attached to the counter-crate, to which guide bars are nailed.

It is very popular among the population, which accurately imitates the structure of real wood.

Sectional diagram of insulation

In case the walls are sheathed with some other finishing material(facade tiles, artificial or natural stone etc.), to nail to OSB boards guide bars are unnecessary, the walls for finishing are left in this form.

Roof insulation

Not many people know that roof insulation plays a very important role in creating a favorable microclimate in the house. High-quality insulation of this element reduces the heat loss of the house by 25-30 % Therefore, it is very important to approach this issue with all responsibility.

One of the most common ways to insulate a roof is to lay the insulation between, and in order for the insulation to last for a long time, the roofing pie must have a ventilation gap.

The essence of the frame house process mineral wool quite simple and looks like this:

From the outside of the roof, a diffusion membrane is nailed to the upper base of the rafters, which is fixed with a counter-batten;
Further from the inside in two layers (each 100 mm.), using the same checkerboard pattern, insulation boards are laid. Pay special attention to the places of gables and the ridge part of the roof;
The insulation is necessarily closed with a vapor barrier film, which is fastened with horizontal stripes from the bottom up with an overlap 5 cm.;
The final stage is the filing of the ceiling with a finishing finishing material (lining, plywood, block house, drywall, etc.)

Floor insulation

Another place where there is a leak 15-20% so precious in our time of warmth. Of course, you can fork out and install a system in the house, especially since in our time there is plenty for this.

However, why not try to warm it up first. After all, the floor is the place where a lot of interesting things happen.

You can’t even count how many kilometers your baby crawls along it, and then it will take its first steps in life on it. The time spent on yoga and reading interesting books, in addition to benefits, will also bring pleasure.

The sequence of floor insulation in frame house:

A layer of waterproofing film is rolled onto the subfloor. All joints are glued with reinforcing tape;
Between the lag for the floor, a heater is laid (thickness not less than 200 mm.). To eliminate the formation of a gap, the width of the insulation must exceed the distance between the lags by 1-2 cm;

Overlap insulation on top 5-10 cm. covered with a vapor barrier;
Further, depending on floor covering, the floor is covered with plywood sheets, or a finishing board is placed.

Conclusion

Today, there are many different modern materials that are suitable for insulating houses built on frame technology. However, numerous positive reviews owners show that it makes no sense to overpay for expensive materials in this case. With the protection of the house from the cold, mineral wool, which is quite affordable, does an excellent job.

Therefore, we can safely conclude that mineral wool is reliable, inexpensive and quite effective material for warming a frame house. Due to its environmental friendliness and fire safety, insulation can be used both inside and outside the house, and nothing else is needed.

To achieve a comfortable stay in the house during winter period it is necessary to think about insulation even at the construction stage. This will prevent the penetration of cold air into the room and ensure compliance with the temperature and humidity conditions. Insulation of a frame house can be done by hand. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate the house

With the help of thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

condensation from inside the premises;
the appearance of dampness, mold and fungus;
increase in heating costs;
non-compliance with the temperature regime of the dwelling and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

Besides competent technology insulation of a frame house can extend the life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

Home insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

mineral wool;
extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this heater. The first is based on the raw materials used to make:

basalt;
glass;
slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation release:

rigid boards;
roll material.

It should be noted that glass wool is produced only in rolls.

Rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable for floors. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both plates and rolls. Best for mansard roofing board material. This will allow you to easily insulate with mineral wool between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, it is necessary to decide which structures require this additional event.

With your own hands, you can protect the following elements of the building from the cold:

the floor of the first floor;
attic floor(if the attic is cold);
mansard roof;
exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be carried out both outside and inside. It is best to mount the thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure the competent work of the material. Warming wooden house mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow you to hold events in all weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation - a guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An external insulation scheme is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

the outer thermal insulation material must not form a vapor barrier. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between the two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
house wall thickening

Based on the foregoing, it follows that the thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases, when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Double layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate the walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Follow the following layer order:

interior decoration;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool insulation (2 layers with offset racks);
windproof membrane;
OSB-3 on the crate;
exterior decoration of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the obligatory presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. In order for the insulation to retain its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the racks of the frame. This reduces the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduces the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the racks of the frame, after which sheathing is performed on both sides.

Vapor barrier and wind protection during do-it-yourself work are located similarly to the previous cases: steam protection from the inside, and wind protection from the outside.

With thermal protection of the walls from the inside under hinged facade The layer order is as follows:

interior decoration of the premises;
vapor barrier;
mineral wool;
superdiffusion membrane;
wall construction;
facade decoration.

Floor insulation

For a wooden frame house, overlappings along the beams are characteristic. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the supporting structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but for their spreading, you will need to pre-install the lower crate or solid flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, the step wooden beams it is better to take overlaps so that 580 mm remains clean between them. This will provide maximum convenience for working with 600 mm wide plates and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing do-it-yourself activities, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is from the cold air side. In the case of intermediate floors, steam protection should be provided from the side of the ceiling.

Attic floor insulation

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on the skin and into the lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Also, workers must have special clothing that completely covers the arms and legs.

Pitched roof insulation

Do-it-yourself installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected with respect to a clear distance of 580 mm.

Work is performed in the following order:

installation of the truss system;
laying a waterproofing layer over the rafters;
thermal insulation;
installation of vapor barrier;
upper and lower crate;
laying roofing material;
ceiling interior trim.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, perform simple actions:

processing of all structures of a wooden house with the help of antiseptic formulations to prevent damage by various microorganisms;
cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
elimination of significant inconsistencies.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will provide the insulation with a reliable connection to the structures and the longest possible long service life.

AT last years for the construction of houses, a frame structure is increasingly being chosen, which is significantly cheaper in cost compared to the construction of brick, block, or log walls. In addition, the process of mounting the frame takes much less time than raising the main walls. However, without proper insulation, it will be impossible to live in such a house. Therefore, the question of which insulation is best for a frame house becomes relevant for all potential owners of such housing.

Thermal insulation in frame buildings should not only provide comfortable temperature regime indoors, but at the same time make the house quiet. Thus, heaters must also have good soundproofing qualities. In addition, there is also whole line important criteria, which must be taken into account when choosing materials for the insulation of the "skeleton". All this will be discussed in the proposed publication.

The main criteria for choosing a heater for a frame house

The first step is to figure out what properties the insulation should have in order for it to be effective for heat and sound insulation of the frame walls of the house and as safe as possible for people living in the building.

So, it is necessary that the material meets the following requirements:

It should be well combined with the material of the frame, that is, with a wooden beam.
Optimal material - the most environmentally friendly
Insulation should be selected with the expectation of the longest possible service life, which should not be less than the service life of the wood chosen for the construction of the frame.
Moisture resistance, that is, the ability to resist moisture absorption (as a percentage of volume or mass), which can have a destructive effect on the material and drastically reduce its insulating qualities.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity - the lower it is, the better the insulation, since the main function of thermal insulation is to minimize heat loss.
Vapor permeability. Ideally, the material should be "breathable", that is, not prevent the release of water vapor. Only in this case, moisture will not accumulate in its structure and on the border between it and the wall surface, which becomes a favorable environment for various microflora - fungus, mold, etc., which can cause serious damage to the structure.
The insulation should not attract rodents, otherwise they will settle in it for permanent residence, laying passages and equipping nests.
For frame houses, fire safety is of particular importance. Ideally, the material should be non-combustible, or at least as resistant to fire as possible.

Thermal insulation materials can be divided into three types according to the method of application - these are backfill, sprayed and slab (roll) installed between frame racks.

Filling heaters are expanded clay, foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.
Sprayed heat insulators - polyurethane foam and ecowool, applied by "wet" technology.
Plate or roll insulation - polystyrene foam various types, mineral wool, foam glass, linen, fibreboard and cork boards.

Each of these materials has its own characteristics and differs in technical and operational characteristics. To make a choice, it is necessary to consider each of them in more detail, both in terms of its main qualities, and from the standpoint of ease of use.

Used for thermal insulation of frame structures modern materials and traditional, familiar to builders for decades. Since all heaters were classified above into three groups according to the way they are used, their characteristics will be discussed further in accordance with this division.

Bulk type heaters

This type of material is used in construction for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors along logs. These include expanded clay, granulated foam glass, ecowool and sawdust.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is a natural material that has been used to insulate different parts of a building for a very long time, and has fully justified its purpose. It is produced in the form of gravel (granules) of different fractions, sand and crushed stone.

Expanded clay is used in construction not only as a backfill insulation, but also in combination with concrete mortar. Last option called expanded clay concrete and is most often used as an insulating layer under concrete screed floors of the first floor on the ground.

Expanded clay is produced from refractory clays, which undergo special heat treatment at high temperatures, are brought to melting, swelling and sintering of the material. As a result of these processes, expanded clay granules acquire a porous structure, which provides the material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded clay has the following characteristics:

High level of thermal insulation. Expanded clay is made from clay, which is one of the "warm" natural materials, and the air structure of the granules helps to reduce the thermal conductivity of clay.
It has light weight, which is ten times lower than the mass of concrete. Therefore, it is suitable for warming light buildings, as it does not give a large load on the foundation and wooden formwork into which it is backfilled.
The material is absolutely environmentally friendly - it does not contain any synthetic and toxic substances.
Expanded clay is inert to chemical and biological influences.
The material is vapor-permeable, that is, it is “breathable”, which does not allow the walls to become waterlogged.
Moisture resistance of the material is important - it does not absorb and does not retain water.
Expanded clay will not create any problems for people prone to allergic reactions.
The material calmly, without losing its insulating properties, withstands very low winter and high summer temperatures.
The heater is not flammable. It does not support combustion, does not emit smoke, even if it gets into an open fire, so it can be called a fireproof material.
Rodents and insects do not live in expanded clay, which makes this material indispensable for warming a private house. From fine-grained expanded clay, they even often make an embankment under the house, as it helps protect the building from mice.
Long service life. It is difficult to talk about any specific time periods, but the frame house itself will survive such a heater for sure.

Expanded clay has its own letter and number marking from M300 to M700, but unlike other building materials, it does not indicate strength, but the bulk density of the insulation, which depends on its fraction.

Expanded clay sand has a grain fraction of 0.13 ÷ 5.0 mm, it is used for backfilling as a heater in walls of relatively small thickness, up to 50 mm.
Expanded clay gravel has a fraction of 5 ÷ 50 mm, and it is excellent for the manufacture of expanded clay concrete.
Expanded clay crushed stone differs from gravel in that it has an angular shape. It is obtained by crushing or rejecting the gravel mass. The size of the crushed stone fraction can vary from 5 to 40 mm.

The use of expanded clay for the insulation of frame walls can be considered a completely justified option, since this material combines excellent performance and ease of installation - they can isolate any structure in shape. It should be noted that this material is suitable not only for backfilling in frames wooden walls, but also three-layer brick or reinforced concrete enclosing structures.

The disadvantage is not too outstanding thermal insulation performance against the background of other materials. If expanded clay is chosen as a heater, then in order to achieve the desired effect, the thickness of its layer must be at least 200 ÷ 300 mm, or it is used in combination with other heat-insulating materials.

Foam glass in granules

In addition to the well-known expanded clay, foam glass produced in granules is used in approximately the same way.

Foam glass is not used as widely as expanded clay, although it has higher thermal insulation performance. Apparently, the lack of information about this material affects. This material has been produced at Russian enterprises since the 30s of the XX century, and it is intended specifically for the insulation of buildings. Foam glass can be purchased in bulk or in the form of plates. Loose material is used to isolate the structural departments of the building - it is poured into the floor space along the logs, attic floors, and also into the cavity of the frame walls.

In addition, granulated foam glass is mixed with concrete for arranging insulation under the screed.

The material is an environmentally friendly product, as sand and glass cullet are used for its manufacture. The raw material is crushed to a powder, then mixed with carbon. The last component contributes to the foaming of the mixture and gas formation - this process makes the material porous, filled with air and light. Pellets are made in special furnaces with rotating chambers, into which blanks - pellets - are filled in advance. The fraction of granules can be different - large, having a size of 8 ÷ 20 mm, medium - 5 ÷ 7 mm and fine 1.5 ÷ 5 mm. The main characteristics of this material are presented in comparative table at the end of the post.

Expanded clay prices

expanded clay

Foam glass is a moisture-resistant, solid material resistant to chemical and biological influences. In addition, it does not collect or emit dust, and does not contain substances to which allergy sufferers are sensitive. The hardness of the material and the absence of any nutrients protects it from rodents.

The disadvantages of bulk foam glass can only be attributed to its high cost. True, if you closely calculate the "accounting" of insulation and compare it with cheaper expanded clay, then it's still worth seeing which material will be more profitable.

Loose foam glass is laid in the same way as expanded clay.

Ecowool (dry laying)

This material can be attributed to relative innovations in the field of insulation, but it is gradually gaining popularity due to its merits. To insulate frame structures, ecowool is used in two versions - in dry form, backfilling in the cavity, or according to the "wet" technology - spraying on the surface. The second method requires the use of special equipment, while the first one can be done on your own.

Ecowool is a mixture of paper waste and cellulose fibers, which occupy about 80% of the total mass of the insulation. In addition, the composition of the material includes a natural antiseptic - boric acid, which takes up to 12%, as well as a flame retardant - sodium tetraborate - 8%. These substances increase the resistance of the insulation to external influences.

Ecowool goes on sale in hermetically sealed polyethylene bags, in loose form, therefore, when choosing a dry method of wall insulation, it can be used immediately.

Ecowool has the following characteristic features:

Low thermal conductivity. Cellulose, of which this insulation mainly consists, has all the qualities of wood, which has been used for construction for more than one hundred years. residential buildings precisely because of the natural warmth of the material.
The lightness of the material, even when moistened, allows it to be used for thermal insulation of frame structures.
This is an environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit harmful fumes throughout the entire period of operation.
Pronounced vapor permeability. Ecowool does not retain moisture in its structure, therefore it does not require vapor barrier, which allows you to save some money when building a house.
Ecowool is resistant to biological influences, as it contains an antiseptic additive, as well as to chemicals.
This insulation can absorb moisture even up to 20% of the total mass, but it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities. Here it must be said that moisture does not linger in the structure, since the material is "breathable".
Resistance to low temperatures, that is, frost resistance of cotton wool.
Despite the flame retardant included in the insulation, the material belongs to the G2 combustibility group, that is, it is low-flammable and self-extinguishing. That is, smoldering of the material cannot be ruled out, but it will not become a flame spreader.
Mice and insects do not start in ecowool, as it contains boric acid.
It attracts in it a long service life and the possibility of recycling.

When dry laying ecowool in the wall, its consumption is 45÷70 kg/m³. Before work, the material is fluffed with an electric drill. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that over time, dry cotton wool will sag by about 15%, so the insulation must be well tamped. It is also important to know that when fluffing this material in the room there will be a large number of dust and debris, so it is best to work on the street or in outbuildings, and the respiratory tract must be protected by wearing a respirator.

Wall insulation with dry ecowool is carried out in two ways - backfilling and blowing.

Backfilling is carried out manually, into a gradually erected formwork, and blowing - into a space completely closed by a sheathing fixed on the frame racks. In order to blow in, special equipment is needed, into which ecowool is poured, fluffed up, and then, under pressure, it is fed into the empty space of the frame sheathed on both sides through drilled holes.

The stages of work on backfilling ecowool will be discussed below.

Sawdust as filling insulation for frame walls

Sawdust cannot be called a popular insulation, although they have been used for this purpose since time immemorial. We can say that this natural material was replaced by modern synthetic insulation. However, there are craftsmen who to this day do not refuse sawdust and shavings, successfully insulating the walls of frame houses with them.

It is believed that for the first time sawdust began to be used for warming frame buildings in Finland, where the climate is more severe than in most regions of Russia, and it should be noted that the material fully justified its purpose. But we must not forget that sawdust has not only advantages, but also its disadvantages, which you also need to know about.

To achieve the desired thermal insulation effect, it is necessary to choose hard wood sawdust - these are beech, maple, hornbeam, oak, alder and maybe pine, the moisture content of which should be no more than 20% of the total mass.

The disadvantages of sawdust used for insulation in its pure form, without processing them special formulations, the following features can be attributed to them:

Flammability. Dry sawdust quickly ignites and burns, spreading fire to nearby combustible materials.
In a layer of sawdust, various insects and rodents feel good.
At high humidity sawdust may begin to rot, and mold may also form on them.
When moistened, sawdust can shrink significantly, in addition, their thermal conductivity increases, which reduces the heat-insulating effect.

Taking into account all the features of this natural insulating material, the master builders developed mixtures in which there are additives that level out all the shortcomings of sawdust.

For the manufacture of such a warming mixture, in addition to sawdust, the following materials will be required:

Cement, clay, lime or cement are the binding components of the mass.
Boric acid or copper sulphate are antiseptic substances.

Clay or cement is used in the sawdust mass if it is prepared to insulate the attic floor, sawdust is mixed with lime for floors, and a sawdust-gypsum mixture is usually used for walls.

The process of manufacturing a mixture for warming frame walls can be considered in the following proportions, based on its mixing in a construction wheelbarrow with a volume of 150 liters:

Sawdust is poured into the container, about ⅔ of the total volume, that is, about 100 liters. (0.1 m³).
Gypsum is added to the sawdust, it will take two liter jars. If the attic floor is insulated, clay is taken instead of gypsum, and lime for floors.
Further, 100 ml is diluted in a bucket of water per 10 liters boric acid or copper sulfate.
Then the ready, well-mixed aqueous solution is poured into a wheelbarrow with sawdust and one of the selected binder additives, after which all components must be mixed well. It must be remembered here that when using gypsum as a binder additive, the mixture must be poured into the formwork immediately after mixing, since gypsum, when mixed with water, remains in working condition for a few minutes. Therefore, a large amount of sawdust-gypsum mass cannot be kneaded. The thickness of the insulation layer of this material must be at least 150÷180 mm. After filling the mixture, it needs to be compacted only lightly, since after the binder has hardened, it should have an air-filled structure.

How the formwork is built will be discussed below, in the section on installation work.

This table presents a more accurate composition of sawdust-gypsum mixture, laid 150 mm thick for insulation of a house with a certain wall surface area.

Parameter name	Numerical indicators
Wall area of the house, (m²)	80	90	100	120	150
Number of sawdust, (in bags)	176	198	220	264	330
The amount of gypsum, (kg)	264	297	330	396	495
Quantity blue vitriol or boric acid, (kg)	35.2	39.6	44	52.8	66

Loose type insulation

The method of wall insulation with any backfill insulation material is almost identical, however, for each of them there are some nuances. It should be noted that there is nothing complicated in warming the frame structure, and the work can be easily done independently:

The first step is to sheathe the frame with plywood (OSB) or other material from the outside or inside. It is best to clad the structure from the street, especially in cases where it is planned to use wooden lining. Having fixed the boards from the front side of the house, you can calmly, slowly, work from the inside of the room, without fear of rain.
The next stage of the insulation process is to fix the strips of plywood or boards from the inside of the room from the floor, first to a height of 500 ÷ 800 mm. It will turn out a kind of formwork, into which the insulation will be poured, and then the insulation will be compacted.

When the cavity is filled with ecowool, the lining from the inside is increased higher. The newly formed space is again filled with ecowool and this continues until the wall is completely insulated. Experts advise leaving the formwork fixed for two to three days. During this time, the cotton fibers will bond well with each other and shrink a little, freeing up part of the space that must also be filled with cotton.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then the lower part of the formwork is left in place, and its following elements are fixed on top of it - plywood or boards, after which the space is also filled with insulation.
When the walls are insulated with ecowool, after filling all the free space with it, the formwork plywood is often removed, and from the inside of the house the frame can be sheathed with drywall or other facing material.
If another filling material is used, then drywall or finishing sheathing will have to be fixed on top of the formwork material.
If necessary additional insulation walls, heat-insulating material, it is recommended to mount it on the outside of the building, in front of the decorative cladding.
On the front side, the insulation material must be tightened with a hydro-windproof membrane.
When using sawdust or ecowool for backfilling the wall frame, it is recommended to use kraft paper as a waterproofing material. It is laid inside the formwork, spreading on the bottom and walls. After filling the insulation, to a height of approximately 200 ÷ 300 mm, the next sheet of waterproofing is laid on it, then the insulation - and so on.

Spray-on insulation

If you plan to use sprayed materials for insulation, then you immediately need to prepare for the extra costs of their installation, since special equipment is used for it. Moreover, installations for spraying polyurethane foam differ from those intended for working with ecowool.

Ecowool (spraying)

The application of ecowool, in addition to backfilling in the cavity, is also carried out by a “wet” or adhesive method. The fact is that cellulose contains a natural adhesive - lignin, and when the raw material is moistened, ecowool fibers acquire adhesive ability.

Ecowool prices

This quality of the material allows it to be used for insulation of vertical surfaces. Wall insulation is done in two ways:

Spraying the material between the racks of the frame after sheathing it on the outside or inside with plywood (OSB) or boards, and then leveling the wool over the racks using a special roller;

The frame is sheathed with plywood (OSB) on both sides, and then the empty space is filled with ecowool through holes drilled in the cladding, 55÷60 mm in size.

Both spraying and blowing ecowool into the space between the frame racks is carried out under pressure, which is created using special equipment.

In the capacity of the device there are special mechanical "mixers" for fluffing, whipping ecowool and moisturizing it throughout the volume.

Dry ecowool is filled into the bunker, where it is moistened and mixed, and then it enters the corrugated sleeve, through which it is sprayed onto the surface under pressure or blown into the sheathed frame.

If the filling of the wall will occur through a hole, then first it is drilled in the plywood sheathing. Then, a rubber seal and a pipe are installed in the resulting hole, through which the fluffy and moistened ecowool is fed.

When cotton wool is sprayed onto the surface and after it is leveled, the insulation is closed with a windproof material, after which you can proceed to the outer skin of the frame.

Today you can find simpler sets of equipment for blowing and spraying ecowool, for their independent use. However, when using such a device, ecowool will have to be fluffed manually before filling it, and this is additional time and a large amount of dust, which in a professional device is collected in a special dust bag.

In a previous article, I described step-by-step instructions for assembling a frame house with my own hands. Now, we will consider instructions on how to properly insulate it and isolate it from wind and moisture, so that during operation it remains reliable protection from frost in the cold season, and also saved from the languishing heat in summer.

What insulation to use for a frame house

I will not describe here which insulation is best for a frame house, this is a separate topic, and it is discussed in detail in another article.

But it is worth noting that about 80% of the total number of frame houses are insulated with mineral wool or heaters based on it. Considering this, this step-by-step instruction, will mainly be based on such insulation.

In addition to mineral wool, there are several more types of insulation that are more or less suitable for use as thermal insulation of frame houses, such as ecowool, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay and others. We will talk about the differences in the technology of their use at the end of the article.
The insulation of a frame house with glass wool occurs in the same way as with mineral wool insulation, so we will not consider this type of insulation separately.
Mineral wool, in comparison with other types of heaters, is the most versatile material. She insulates not only frame houses, but also any others. As a heater, it is used almost everywhere in the construction of private houses.

It is important to know that when working with mineral wool, especially indoors, it is necessary to use products personal protection such as gloves, goggles and respirator. Skin contact can result in severe itching, redness, and allergic reactions.

In principle, the insulation of all parts of a frame house is not much different from each other, but there are still some nuances, so it is necessary to consider each part separately.

Warming the floor of a frame house with your own hands

The floor insulation technology largely depends on the type of foundation, but since most frame houses are currently being built on a pile-screw foundation, we will build on this when insulating the floor.

Insulation of the floor of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, begins with waterproofing. In addition to the waterproofing membrane, we still need to build a structure under the floor logs that will hold both the waterproofing material and the insulation itself, as shown in the diagram.
If the house is located high relative to the ground, and you can crawl under it, then first a waterproofing membrane is stretched under the floor logs and fastened with a furniture stapler. The overlap of the waterproofing strips should be as tight as possible so that it does not see through from under the floor. Which side is inward, and which outward material is stuffed - ask the manufacturer.
Also from below, a board breaks through on top of the waterproofing. The size of the board and the installation step does not really matter, but no more than 40-50 cm, if only this is enough so that the sheets or strips of mineral wool do not fall through. Sometimes the board is stuffed tightly, without gaps, this strengthens the floor structure. Here's what the end result should be:
If it is impossible to crawl under the house, then a board is first stuffed under the logs, and then a waterproofing membrane is attached to the logs from the inside of the frame house, as shown in the photo.
When the base for the insulation is ready, mineral wool is laid between the joists of the floor of the frame house. It is necessary to lay tightly, the presence of voids is not allowed. Mineral wool is cut with a sharp knife, you can use a construction knife, but always a little more than the required length, about 1 cm.
For ease of installation, the distance between the lags is selected in advance, depending on the insulation, in our case, the width of the mineral wool slab is 60 cm. This means that the distance between the lags, ideally, should be 58-59cm.
The thickness of the insulation layer depends entirely on the region where the frame house is being built, but on average it is 15 cm. It is also necessary to take into account the height of the log floor of the frame house. As a rule, the thickness of all layers of mineral wool does not exceed, and sometimes even slightly less than, the width of the board or beam from which they are made.
An important point in laying mineral wool is that each layer must overlap the joints of the previous one, as shown in the photo. The overlap should be at least 15-20 cm.
On top of the mineral wool, inside the frame house on the logs, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier membrane. It will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside, and also serve as additional wind protection. In order for it to be airtight, the joints must be glued with double-sided tape, for example.
Plywood, OSB-board, or a board is sewn onto the vapor barrier membrane, which will be the basis for further finishing.

It is worth noting that mineral wool itself is not a wind protection, therefore, the waterproofing and vapor barrier membrane must be stretched so that there is an overlap on the walls, excluding moisture and wind from entering between the wall and the floor of the frame house.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool

In a frame house, as in any other, there are two types of walls - external, one side of which is located on the street, and internal, which are located completely inside the house. So, it is necessary to insulate both of them.

The walls of a frame house can be insulated both from the inside and outside, the materials used and their quantity do not change from this. We will consider the insulation from the inside, everything is done from the outside in exactly the same way, only in a slightly different sequence.

Insulation of the outer walls of the house

It should be noted right away that when sheathing a frame house from the outside and from the inside with your own hands, they use various materials, they may be different from those that I describe in this manual. The procedure may also differ, but in general, it turns out almost the same thing, as in the diagram. This is an approximate scheme, for example, instead of OSB-plates, on the one hand, you can pierce the crate with slats or a 25mm thick board. The board, as a rule, breaks through a certain distance - about 40 cm between the axes, but it is worth remembering that in this case, the rigidity of the walls will suffer a little.

The process of insulating walls with mineral wool with your own hands is almost identical to the thermal insulation of the floor, and is carried out as follows:

Outside, the frame is sheathed with OSB-plates, with gaps between them specified by the manufacturer, as a rule, it is 2-3 mm. After installation, the gaps can be foamed. This is what it looks like from the inside of the house:
Then, also outside, a waterproofing membrane is stretched, which will protect the mineral wool, the frame of the house, as well as OSB sheets from external moisture, on top of which external finishing works will be carried out, such as the installation of siding, for example. Some manufacturers make waterproofing materials with self-adhesive strips so that the joint is tighter. If there are no such stripes, it is advisable to glue the joints with double-sided tape.
Inside the frame house, between the frame posts, which, if you did everything correctly, are located at a distance of 58-59 cm from each other, sheets of mineral wool are tightly inserted.
It is better to use mineral wool with a density of at least 35-50kg/m3. A less dense insulation will settle or roll down, which will lead to the appearance of voids and cold bridges. As a rule, manufacturers write on the packaging what material can be used for.
As well as with the floor, the layers of mineral wool must be laid so as to overlap the previous joint of the sheets, at least 15-20cm. The total thickness of the insulation depends on the climate zone, but the average value is also 15cm.
After all the insulation has been laid in the walls, it is necessary to fill with mounting foam all the small voids formed at the junctions of boards and beams.
A prerequisite for insulation with mineral wool is that from the inside of the house, over the insulation, it is necessary to stretch the vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture coming from inside the house. On top of which, the same OSB sheets are most often stuffed as outside, but you can also use a board, slats and similar materials, depending on the further finishing. An important point in the installation of a vapor barrier membrane is that on inside corners it cannot be overtightened, and the vapor barrier completely repeated the angle of the frame. Otherwise, in the future, it will be difficult to nail the sheathing at the corners.

It is worth noting that this whole procedure can be done the other way around, first pull the vapor barrier membrane from the inside, then the inner sheathing material, and the process of insulating the walls with mineral wool can be done from the outside.

Insulation of the internal walls of a frame house

Distinctive features of insulation internal walls frame house are:

If not possible, or to soundproofing internal partitions there are no strict requirements, it will be enough to use the same insulation as for external walls. The thickness of the heat-insulating layer can be much less.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a frame house

Insulation of the ceiling of a frame house is practically no different from other types of houses with wooden floors, and is one of the most crucial moments in the thermal insulation of the whole house as a whole.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly insulate the ceiling of a frame house with mineral wool:

Since warm air tends to rise up, improper insulation ceiling or roof, the maximum amount of heat will leave the house.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the roof of a frame house

Very often, instead of the ceiling, and sometimes together with the ceiling, the roof of the frame house is also insulated with mineral wool. This is usually done in cases where the attic space is residential and heated.

The insulation technology practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of the ceiling, except that a waterproofing material must be stretched over the insulation to protect the insulation from an external aggressive environment.

This is how the heat-insulating layer of mineral wool on the roof of a frame house looks like in the diagram:

Here are a few features that will help facilitate the process of warming with your own hands:

It is worth noting that it is possible to insulate the roof from the inside, if it is fully assembled. But this is much more inconvenient, because you will have to come up with some kind of temporary fasteners before pulling on the vapor barrier material so that the insulation does not fall out.

Features of using other types of heaters

All preparatory work on the thermal insulation of a frame house, regardless of the type of insulation, is no different. Differences, and even then insignificant, in the laying of the insulation itself, which will be discussed further.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation with other materials, which can also be used as thermal insulation for frame houses.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene (styrofoam) and EPS

If you dig around on the Internet, you will find a lot of controversy about foam insulation not only for wooden houses, but also for others. Indeed, polystyrene for frame houses is not the most the best way, although it will be the warmest, with the same thickness of insulation, and why is a separate topic for conversation.

The process of insulation with foam plastic and extruded polystyrene foam is practically no different, so they can be combined. Here are some features of expanded polystyrene and insulation based on it:

Styrofoam does not always lie between the lags as tightly as mineral wool, so all cracks and voids must be removed using mounting foam or similar materials.
Expanded polystyrene is a combustible material, this must be remembered and even potential sources of combustion should not come into contact with it.
When using foam, you need to take care of improved ventilation, because this material practically does not allow air to pass through.
Despite the fact that expanded polystyrene practically does not pass or absorb moisture, it cannot be left as the only waterproofing at home. Waterproofing and vapor barrier layers should still be present, because they protect not only the insulation, but also the tree itself, from which the frame of the house is assembled.
Styrofoam is very fond of rodents who make their moves in it, so care must be taken that they do not get to it.

These are the basic rules and differences in the use of polystyrene foam boards and insulation based on them. Otherwise, everything is done in the same way as in the case of mineral wool insulation.

Features insulation of a frame house with ecowool

Ecowool - relatively new material for warming not only frame houses. It can be used as a heater in almost all areas of private construction, including frame construction.

Despite the fact that ecowool insulation can be done without special equipment, I would still not recommend doing this. Firstly, because with the help of special equipment, ecowool is applied more evenly and blows out all the voids. Secondly, hand-cooked ecowool has less good performance both in terms of shrinkage and thermal insulation.
Ecowool absorbs moisture very well, therefore waterproofing and vapor barrier materials, as well as their installation, must be approached with special responsibility.
It is necessary to apply ecowool with a margin, because it will shrink over time, up to 10-15%.
When applying it, you must use personal protective equipment.

It should be noted that when insulating a frame house with ecowool, it is necessary to hire responsible and highly qualified specialists who will take into account all its features during installation.

Insulation of a frame house with expanded clay

This insulation technology is currently used extremely rarely, because now there is a huge selection of materials with much the best performance but I'll tell you a little about it anyway.

Expanded clay in dry form, as a heater, can be used either for floor or ceiling insulation, it is also possible for them to insulate interfloor ceilings. Using it in the walls is problematic, and, in my opinion, not justified.
Very often, expanded clay insulation is combined, for example, with sawdust, ash, etc.
The difference between expanded clay insulation is that the floor and ceiling, from below under the logs, must be pierced either with a butt board or with some plywood materials.
Expanded clay is better to use a fine fraction, thereby there will be fewer voids.

In addition to those described by me, there are many more materials and methods for insulating frame houses with your own hands. But they are all so similar that it makes little sense to describe each of them.

Warming the walls of a frame house is an important stage of construction, which should not be neglected.

It is worth approaching this process seriously and responsibly, because frame houses are in no way inferior to concrete or brick ones in reliability and durability, and in most cases they even win.

If you want living in a home to be a real holiday for you: warm and comfortable in winter, fresh and cozy in summer, then everything is in your hands.

Let's figure out how to properly insulate the walls of a frame house with your own hands.

Information about the most popular heaters

Today, a considerable number of heaters are known that are used in the construction of frame houses. Each has characteristic properties, its pros and cons.

When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

low level of thermal conductivity;
fire resistance;
health safety;
convenience during the installation process;
no tendency to deformation;
long service life;
value for money.

Today, in the process of building a dwelling, foam plastic and mineral and basalt wool are the most popular materials for wall insulation.

The article is devoted to the features of these types of heaters, their advantages, disadvantages and nuances of the installation process.

Mineral wool is a popular high-quality insulation material. Mats or rolls are used for insulation.

They are easy to install, lightweight, durable, have excellent sound insulation and low thermal conductivity.

The disadvantages of the insulating material include non-environmental friendliness (the content of a small dose of substances harmful to health) and the inability to withstand the action of moisture (leads to a loss of thermal insulation properties).

Mineral wool is mainly used during external insulation. One of the types of mineral wool is basalt wool.

The material has a number of positive properties:

low thermal conductivity;
health safety;
resistance to various environmental influences;
fire resistance;
strength;
long service life.

The disadvantage of warming with basalt wool is the cost of the material. But a large number of advantages of insulation covers this minus.

Styrofoam has recently been rapidly becoming a leader among frame house heaters.

First of all, due to its low price. In addition, the material is easy to use, light, harmless to health.

But at the same time, the foam has significant disadvantages:

highly flammable and releases toxic fumes when ignited;
very fragile, can be easily damaged during operation;
material can significantly spoil the rodents.

Although many experts argue that rats and mice do not eat foam, but justify their homes there.

They say that modern foam is produced with the addition of flame retardant additives.

It's time to get acquainted with the technology of wall insulation using each of the materials mentioned.

Insulation of the walls of the frame house with cotton wool

Warming the walls of a frame house with mineral wool is a laborious but effective process.

The main thing is that the walls are observed correctly. Initially, we consider the insulation of the outer walls of a frame house with our own hands.

On the initial stage work, the wall frame is sheathed on the outside with slabs (chipboard) in such a way that there are gaps between them, which can be foamed at the end of the work.

Then, insulation is laid in layers between the racks of the frame.

To prevent the formation of bridges of voids and a bridge of cold, mineral wool should be taken with a good density and each layer should be laid slightly offset.

The amount of insulation varies depending on climate zone location of the dwelling.

At the next stage, you need to fill all the voids with mounting foam. After that, it is necessary to cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, and fill the crate on it.

Now let's talk about the insulation of internal walls with our own hands.

Often this procedure is carried out for soundproofing walls. It is advisable to use a special sound-absorbing material, but mineral wool is also suitable.

It should be noted that protective membranes are not required for this process. The remaining stages of insulation of external and internal walls are the same.

Anyone who has at least the slightest building skills can insulate the walls of a frame house with basalt wool. But at the same time, the process requires serious responsibility and concentration.

Before insulating the outer walls in a frame house, cracks should be repaired. For this, mounting foam, tow, etc. are useful.

It is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper) with ventilation. The film will protect the insulation from moisture, ventilation will contribute to the passage of air.

The warming process consists of the following steps:

Mounting and fastening of a metal cornice in order to facilitate the process of laying insulating material and as a protection against mice and rats;
Sticking a basalt slab on the wall. To begin with, large wall sections are filled with heat-insulating plates, then smaller sections;
Alignment of the wall surface.

As for the insulation of internal walls, here the material also performs a soundproof function. The technology is identical to the scheme of insulation of external walls.

So, the processes of insulating walls with mineral and basalt wool with their own hands are similar.

They require certain building knowledge and skills, diligence and faith in their potential. It is necessary to take into account all the subtleties of insulation technology.

Working with foam

You are already familiar with the positive and negative sides of foam as a heater.

Now consider how to insulate the outer walls of a frame house with foam. In the process of insulating walls with your own hands, a temperature above zero must be observed.

At the initial stage, you should prepare the frame (get rid of unnecessary items; treat the surface with antiseptics in order to protect the dwelling from fire, level it (air should not get into the cracks), if possible, fill the gaps with frost-resistant foam (for installation); treat the surface with a primer, let dry).

The next step is the application of a waterproofing layer (foil, polyethylene film, parchment paper), which acts as a protection of the walls from wind and moisture, is applied from the outside.

There is an opinion that the foam does not absorb moisture at all, and a waterproofing layer is not needed.

But at low temperatures, moisture can destroy the insulation. So laying this layer is a necessary step in warming. protective film glued with tape or special tape.

For high-quality insulation of a frame house, experts recommend laying three layers of insulation on top of each other, while not forgetting to treat the joints with frost-resistant foam.

Be sure to correctly position the plates so that they do not deform under the influence of temperatures, negatively affecting the skin.

The walls from the inside are wrapped with a vapor barrier film so that condensation does not form on the insulation.

Penofol, various vapor barrier membranes are used as protection.

The outer skin can be made on a waterproofing layer. Here you can do without ventilation.

The insulation of the walls of a frame house with polystyrene foam inside the building is similar to the insulation of the outer walls.

So which insulation to choose for your frame home? Let's summarize.