Muraya growing from seeds at home. Murraya (muraya): cultivation and care at home

13.06.2019

The majestic emperors of Japan have been a symbol of supreme power and justice in the East for many centuries. The word of the emperor was more than the law, and any of his whims were fulfilled in the shortest possible time. And, of course, the rulers had some of the best rooms in the world, clothes, food and decorations. Therefore, it is not surprising that almost 500 years ago, when Japanese travelers stumbled upon a group of small plants in the foothills of the Himalayas, which were fragrant like divine nectar, and their fruits relieved fatigue and brought peace to the soul, these trees were immediately delivered to the emperor's palace. And soon, Muraya, unknown to anyone before, began to bear the title of the imperial tree, and was grown exclusively for the gardens and chambers of the Japanese rulers. The marvelous smell of Muraya, according to legend, helped people to be closer to the gods, clarifying and strengthening their minds, giving new strength and confidence to the body, and providing the descendants of the person who inhaled the scent of Muraya with strong and strong-willed personalities.

Today, Muraya has retained all of its properties, which then struck the emperor of Japan, and that is why this plant remains one of the rarest and most desirable for many gardeners. It is worth warning you that Muraya seeds and cuttings of which are very rare, will reward your expectations. If you want Muraya to grow in your home, you need to work hard for the plant to take root, and begin to bloom and bear fruit. Where to get this Muraya flower, how to care for it - these are very important questions. If this is your first time encountering this plant, best solution will use riding cuttings, as they take root best in new conditions. Muraya care for her is not easy. It is curious that, unlike other mountain plants, Muraya develops extremely quickly, so it is quite possible that 3 months after planting you will admire the flowers of the plant and inhale their aroma. The plant should not be transplanted very often, the best option there will be a transplant after Muraya becomes cramped in her current pot, which happens (for young plants) at intervals of a year. Mature plants that are almost fully developed should be repotted every two to three years.

The tree of emperors of Japan - Muraya flower how to care for it to please you? It is very important that Muraya loves the sun, but besides, too much sunlight can destroy him, since the leaves and flower stalks of the plant are extremely unstable to burns. As a result, the plant needs a sunny location, shaded if necessary, to avoid drying and death of the tree. Another rule of Muraya flower how to care for it is proper watering. Muraya prefers plentiful, but not frequent, as in the natural mountain habitat this cycle of soil moisture prevails. As well as in the mountains, the air in the room where Muraya is located must be well humidified, since dry air, along with direct sunlight, is detrimental to the plant. It would be nice to give the plant a warm shower from a sprayer once a week, or wash the leaves. warm water. Now let's move on to the seasons, and the cycles of the plant. Summer is the most active period in the development of Muraya, during which it is best to transplant or reproduce. Autumn, like spring, is the time of preparation for winter / summer. Important! Muraya flower how to care for it during these periods? Now is the time to feed and fertilize the plant in order to prepare Muraya for change. Winter, this is the time of rest, when the plant “sleeps” the temperature in the room where Muraya is located should not fall lower than 17 degrees Celsius. It is noteworthy that Muraya fruit is a unique medicine, the use of which is practiced in modern Japan, as well as ginseng in China. Ripe fruits of bright red color can be consumed, both in their natural form, and by preparing a decoction based on them, which will relieve almost any pain and bring peace to your thoughts.

Murraya is one of the most popular tropical exotic plants that you can grow on your windowsill. The attractiveness of murray is obvious: an openwork spreading crown, abundant fragrant flowering, responsiveness to attention and care (an abundance of berries). The murraya plant very well cleans the air in the house from chemical compounds emitted building materials and household appliances, and in addition, emits phytoncides and aromatic oils, which help to reduce pathogenic microorganisms in the air.

Yuri Alexandrovich Markin, a collector and florist, shared his experience with us.

Murraya is ours and Dutch

Murraya belongs to the rue family, is the closest relative of citrus. Murraya Paniculata is most often grown at home - it is easier to get seeds, purchase and receive them by mail. Very often you can hear the terminology "murraya Dutch" and "our murraya". What does it mean?

In fact, both are the same species - Murraya paniculata, a synonym - Murraya exotica, the popular name is "Orange Jasmine". The plant got its name in honor of the 18th century Swedish botanist Johan Andreas Murray. And it is written in Latin - Murraya, hence the two letters "r" in the spelling of the name. But first, the second letter "r" began to be skipped in the name of Murraya - it's easier to pronounce it, and then it disappeared from the spelling of the name of the plant, which, of course, is not true.

From observations of numerous seedlings, I can say the following that they grow and develop in different ways - some grow compactly and bloom when the first pair of true leaves appear, others pretend to be Dutch, grow by leaps and bounds and do not think to bloom. In general, very capricious plants, the crown develops in different ways, although it is possible and necessary to form.

There is a variety of Murray "Min a Min" - in nature a very dense shrub no more than 1 m tall, the length of each leaf is about 1.5-2 cm. And of course, in its own way unique look Murraya chokeberry Murraya koenigii- its seeds can also be found commercially, the popular name is "curry tree" - its feathery leaves have more elongated than those of murraya paniculate leaves - lanceolate, pointed at the end with a crenate edge, are included in curry spice mixtures (leaves have a distant smell of turpentine ). The flowers are not white, but rather light cream, in many-flowered corymbs. And the berries turn black when ripe.

Murraya is a self-pollinating plant, the fruits are easily tied. After the berries ripen, the seeds are harvested and they can be sown.

Site note: among flower growers there is an opinion that "Dutch Murraya" is a straight plant, poorly branching with loose branches, its complex leaf consists of 7 - 11 leaves, and flowering for 5 years; in "our murray" the bush is compact, branches well, and the complex leaf consists of 3-7 leaves and seedlings bloom from a very early age (2-3 months from germination). In fact, there is no such variety as "Dutch Murraya", there are various clones of the same plant. A bit of science:

The latest study, published in the American Society for Horticultural Science HorstScience "Direct Shoot Organogenesis in Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack: A Prerequisite for Genetic Transformation" in July 2013, was conducted to investigate whether there are differences between the leaves and flowers of Murraya paniculata (L.) Jack: various conditions. Plants were grown in vitro and under natural conditions, morphological and anatomical differences were also manifested in the growth rate and shape of the bush, leaf size, flowering rate. Therefore, if you want to get an exact clone of the plant you saw, it is advisable to purchase fruits or cuttings from the selected plant. Dutch and American (Logee's Plants for Home & Garden) suppliers have completely different clones.

Murraya paniculata seed sowing technology

Obtaining and preparing murray seeds

When the seeds ripen, it is better not to overdo it so that they do not start to rot right on the branches if they themselves do not fall off (this has never happened - never).

We eat or wash the pulp, freeing the seeds. If there are remnants of the pulp, we clean it carefully, rinse it in a strainer under running, warm water and place it in a depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid. It becomes depleted, in my case, due to the constant evaporation of moisture from the glass. I add fresh water, part of the active substance, one way or another, decreases with use. A glass of solution has been standing on a shelf in the bathroom for about a year, it has not lost activity, it just constantly precipitates - you have to mix it when using it.

Depleted solution of Bordeaux liquid - for soaking seeds

Murraya paniculata Russia - seeds in a greenhouse, 06/22/2016

In this example, the seeds were aged in a fungicide for a day (there was simply no time for them). And so, in the evening they are soaked - at night, in the morning they are washed under running water and placed in a greenhouse on moistened foam rubber.

Sowing seeds

So, the seeds are preliminarily prepared - cleaned of pulp, washed under running water and soaked in a solution of Bordeaux mixture or blue vitriol 2-3 hours, washed again and placed in a greenhouse for spitting roots. All this is done with the aim of visually rejecting low-quality (underdeveloped, rotten, empty) seeds. And so, you can sow all the seeds at once, without sorting, and, hopefully, out of 10 pieces, all 10 will germinate, however, it is not a fact that this will happen. Even viable seeds, for some reason, may not germinate - simply rotting in the ground.

It has been observed that if the seeds have green color, then the roots peck quickly if the seeds have beige shade, then a little longer, brown ones are not viable, they are already rotten and not developed. In such seeds, in the remainder, there are only outer and inner shells, the embryo itself, as a rule, is no longer there or it has rotted, or was very small.

Germination of seeds will take place in a greenhouse from a container, with a foam rubber insert inserted at the bottom, filled with water until this substrate is wetted and water appears on the surface - barely.

The greenhouse is heated, on a glass shelf, which in turn is in direct contact with the heated towel rail. The heating temperature is about 32-35°C. I note that for seeds; murray, citrus, tomato, pepper, pomegranate, fig, kiwi fruit, etc. this high heating temperature is quite acceptable and works well. It has been noticed that pecking of the roots occurs even faster if the greenhouses are removed from the heating at night and left in the same place, in the bathroom. Sown seeds with prickly roots can be placed in a room with a temperature of 26-28 ° C, under cover in the form of a greenhouse from an inverted cup, until the sprout hatches. At lower temperatures (below 24°C), sprouts appear a little later.

Murraya paniculata, heated greenhouse, 06/24/2016

Murraya paniculata Russia - roots hatched, 05/24/2016

Murraya paniculata Russia - seedlings, 25.05.2016

By the way, for seeds Japanese loquat- this temperature was too high. More than 1.5 months of standing on the heating, not a single one pecked at the spine. As soon as the hot water supply was turned off and the greenhouses moved to a room with an air temperature of 28-30 ° C, the roots immediately began to peck. Almost all the seeds have already been planted in individual cups, with shelter from an inverted cup, in the form of a greenhouse - so that the soil is not watered until germination and removal of the shelter.

Planting seeds in the ground

Roots peck in different ways, mainly in 3-4 days, up to 7 days. I plant them in plastic cups with a volume of 100-200 ml, at the bottom they have four cuts crosswise ( drainage holes). The cups are filled with a self-prepared soil mixture, of the approximate composition that is prepared for citrus fruits. The soil is watered until completely wet. This cup is inserted into a similar one, but already without slots, or installed in a common tray (wide, large tray).

After disembarkation into 100-200 gram cups, and installation under the backlight, the cups are covered with caps. Thus, a greenhouse is created from inverted cups of the appropriate size. Constant humidity is maintained in the greenhouse, which contributes to faster germination of seeds and release from the outer shell. Also, the soil does not require additional watering and moistening, since its moisture is stored in the greenhouse.

Date of planting, pecked the root of the seed, in a 100 g cup

Murraya paniculata (Russia) first shoots 04.06.2016

Murraya paniculata - installing seedlings under lamps

In order not to accidentally injure the young root, a small depression is made in the moist soil (with a metal nail file) - the seed is inserted without any effort, slightly deepened relative to the ground level and with a nail file, the soil is pressed around the planted seed.

By the way, for planting citrus fruits, in 200 ml cups, I puncture the soil with the same nail file, almost to the very bottom. For planting medlar seeds, shaking the stuck nail file back and forth, I expand the hole. In principle, if you don’t bother, then the seeds can easily be stuck into the freshly moistened, and still quite loose in the upper layer, soil.

Murraya - crop care

In improvised greenhouses, the seeds stand until shoots appear. Glasses, usually at night, are shifted by 1/3-1/2 - for acclimatization. In the morning, before leaving for work, or, in the evening, the shelter is removed. You can play it safe and remove the shelter after 2-3 days.

At the first watering without shelter, it is mandatory to mulch (loosen) upper layer soil - so the water will not stagnate, and if the soil has dried up and managed to slightly lag behind the walls, then, after loosening the top layer with a small screwdriver, a stick, or the same nail file, you can slightly fill the voids around the perimeter of the container.

All the time in the greenhouse, cups with seedlings are in the general lighting of the room with numerous lighting fixtures that illuminate the plants.

Murraya paniculata - removal of the outer shell (06/04/2016)

Murraya sprout freed from the outer shell (06/04/2016)

If you see that the seed began to break through the outer shell, after about 7-14 days, then you can carefully remove it with tweezers without damaging the sprout (you can leave it as it is and wait for the sprout to break through the shell on its own).

As soon as the rupture of the outer shell of the seed is noticed. It can be carefully removed by first (additionally) moistening it with water from a spray bottle, so it will easily separate from the seed. In this case, the cap from the inverted cup is removed immediately.

Usually, I remove the shell myself, wet the sprout with a spray bottle, and remove the cap from the upside down cup - right away.

If this moment is missed, then there are several options for adapting a seedling sprout that has already developed in a greenhouse.

Option 1, remove the cap for the night and moisten by sprinkling water from a spray bottle.
Option 2, move the cap from the inverted glass of the greenhouse by 1.5-2 cm and soak for 1-2 days. Then, just remove the cap, you can spray, and again - at night.

Murray seedlings, freed from shells, are placed under lamps for further vegetation. Some stand under an ordinary 11W office fluorescent lamp, but a lot of light also falls from the nearby haze 2x35W + ESL105W - also nearby.

And in a month, young murrays will already grow (in my conditions, from freshly planted and prepared seeds):

Murraya paniculata, seedlings - a month, 05/26/2016

Flowering and fruiting murrayi

I have many copies of Murraya paniculata of different ages, large plants and young, photo of murray from different bushes. Murraya Paniculata (Russia) - seed cycle in home cultivation:

Murraya paniculata (Russia) in buds, 17.03.2016

Murraya paniculata has faded and tied up, 05/20/2016

Murraya paniculata - one and adult bushes in bloom 03/18/2016

Murraya paniculata (Russia) - fruiting of an adult bush, 03/17/2016

Murraya paniculata - ripe fruits, 05/03/2016

Flowering of a young murray, 03/17/2016

The flower is ready for pollination - the pollen is ripe, 03/17/2016

Two seeds in the fruit - bloomed and tied - from the cradle, 05/20/2016

Another murraya blooms from the cradle, 05/20/2016

This murraya flower has not matured pollen, 05/20/2016

Murray pruning

Murraya is very responsive to a haircut, easy to shape. The only remark: you do not need to cut all the branches at once and carry out all activities exclusively during the growth season - from the end of winter to the end of summer. It is necessary to gradually shorten the ends of the shoots, this stimulates the growth of the crown. Layers can be made on long side ropes - rooting is better and faster than from a cutting.

You can form a murray with a trunk - align one of the lower branches and pinch and trim at the right height. I do not recommend cutting large branches immediately, they need to be shortened gradually. The stem is convenient in that at first the pot with the plant can be placed on a podium or a table by the window, and later, when the tree grows up, put on the floor. The crown will just be at the level of the window, and there will be enough light.

By the way, if you are waiting for the fruits to ripen, and then you want to prune, then I assure you, nothing will work out. The fact is that murraya will not give you such a chance. Murraya constantly has buds, ovaries and fruits in the ripening stage. And for good nutrition, like other plants, murraya needs to save all the leaves that will nourish not only the plant itself, but also the fruits.

So you have to choose what you need. If for treatment, then you can cut off some old leaves, twigs that do not fit into the formation of the crown or buy at all - dutch specifically for medicinal purposes.

Note site: Scientific research show that Murraya paniculata (like Koninga) blooms better and thrives in very good light. If you got a Dutch clone that is not inclined to be lanky and low-flowering or not blooming at all, you should try increasing the daylight hours to 16 hours a day. The light intensity is high, however, in the spring it is worth gradually accustoming to the sun to avoid burns.

Murray care

In young seedlings of murray, about to bloom, the buds must be pinched - it will grow faster and save strength (collect buds and petals in tincture or brew tea). Murraya will respond to such an action by re-setting the buds, they need to be pinched again. Thus, we do not let her set fruits until the vegetative mass is set - from about 15 to 25-30 cm in height.

top dressing

Young plants, about 10-15 cm tall, do not need to be fed, it is important to transfer them to slightly larger pots in a timely manner, after the roots have filled the entire volume of the provided soil (this can be seen in transparent plastic cups). I feed my murrays when the leaves indicate a lack of nutrition and when fruit is set. Murraya does not tolerate overfeeding, does not like fatty and heavy nutrient soils.

As for top dressing, I feed very rarely - "Flower Happiness" falls for citrus fruits at the time of gestation, since growth is hampered due to lack of space for large plants. And so, if it is correctly and on time to transship, 2-3 months after transplantation, I start top dressing: organic matter with macro-microelements (from LLC NPO "Force of Life" - Florist (Growth)) - at the time of active vegetation. As well as organo-mineral fertilizers "Emerald" from CJSC MNPP Fart - alternating them, taking into account the condition of the leaves and the season, in the spring - "Emerald", and the rest of the time "Growth".

At the time of fruit setting and gestation - fertilizer for citrus fruits - "Flower Happiness" from Fasco. They can also finish feeding in autumn period- it has more potassium than other fertilizers. Top dressing is better to make, in a half dose, I prefer the last "Flower Happiness" from Fasco of all. Do not forget the main rule - "It is better not to overfeed than to overfeed!"

Watering

Murrayas love uniform moisture, they can normally endure drying with loss of turgor, but the drying of leaf plates (by about 2/3, especially old ones) can already lead to the final death of the plant. There were such cases, and therefore I speak from the practice of observations, irretrievably lost specimens, as well as those flooded with constant watering with insufficiently dried soil - anything can happen when there are a lot of them in small containers of 100-200 g cups.

Lighting

I have artificial lighting (lamp), completely diverse. They can also grow under 11W fluorescent, table, office lamps 7-10 cm from the crown. They can successfully grow under linear fluorescent lamps, in my case - even 60 cm from the window of the South-West direction. And also under ESL at 32W and 55W at a distance of 10-20 cm. And under ESL at 105W, with a distance of 20-30 cm. artificial lighting- 12-14 hours.

But, murrays grow better in light shading in natural light. Without shading, the leaves fade to a yellow or whitish hue fairly quickly. Those. if you keep it on the “walk”, on the balcony, then it is better near the wall of the apartment, away from direct sunlight at noon, the morning sun is better, it is less active, relative to the evening, taking into account warming up the air and reducing humidity. If murraya is initially grown in natural light, then the leaves may not burn out, since they are already adapted to active solar insolation.

Text and photos: Yuri Alexandrovich Markin (nickname on the YUM forum)

It is presented in the form of a small tree, the growth of which, most often, reaches no more than 1.5 meters. At the same time, its bark, which can have a gray-white or white-yellow hue, is considered an unusual feature of the plant, and feathery brownish leaves stand out perfectly against its background.

The green part of murraya is very widely used in culinary activities. It is the most delicious and unusual seasoning that has a citrus-lemon flavor. It is also part of one of the famous spices of India - curry.

Murraya flowering begins with the appearance of chic flowers white color. When this process comes to an end, instead of leaves, small red berries appear on the plant. Some believe that they are very easy to confuse with hawthorn.

If you get very close to the plant, you can smell the pleasant smell of jasmine. Fruits that grow on stems can be used as food. They have a spicy taste and a sweetish tint.

This plant belongs to the rue family. In unnatural habitat conditions, only a few varieties of this flower can be grown. These include exotic and panicled murray. By appearance these two plants are practically indistinguishable from each other.

With proper care, murray at home can grow for many years. At the same time, its young shoots slowly increase in size, thereby contributing to the formation of a lush crown. In order for the branches not to be damaged, the plant must be supported (that is, the construction of special supports will be required). For several years, the flower practically does not develop. But, when the root system strengthens and adapts to new growth conditions, the active growth of the upper part of the flower begins. Every year, the height of the murraya can increase by a couple of centimeters.

Landing

First of all, growing a plant at home begins with planting a murray. This will require the use of its seeds. It is necessary to take into account the fact that the seeds that are bought in stores do not always germinate. But, the seeds personally collected after flowering are much more reliable and efficient. The guarantee of growth of such seeds usually reaches 99-100%.

Planting murrayi is carried out in moistened soil, which should consist of sand and leafy earth. The container, which is used for growing seeds, must be covered with glass and taken to a room that is well lit throughout the day.

After 2-3 weeks, you will be able to see the first young shoots, which, in turn, will grow quite quickly. It is during this period of time that the glass will need to be removed. After that, you just have to watch the active growth of the shoot, which after a short period of time will turn into a chic little tree.

Upon completion of landing young plant needs to be watered!

Locationand lighting

Murraya refers to plants that will not develop normally without heat. It is for this reason that it is very important to ensure that with the onset of cold weather, the air temperature in the house does not fall below 15 degrees.

It is best to place the flower on the east or west side. The plant loves light, but to avoid burns from the direct rays of the sun, it needs to create a small shade.

During the summer period the most the best place for the growth of murraya becomes a balcony or loggia. Do not forget that it is necessary to avoid frequent drafts. Otherwise, the leaves may begin to deteriorate.

When daylight is shortened, you can use the help of phyto- and fluorescent lamps. It is necessary that the light falls on the plant for 12-14 hours. If these conditions are not met, the murraya may not bloom at the right time, and the likelihood of a complete drop of foliage also increases.

Pot dimensions

To ensure the normal growth of the flower, it is very important to approach the choice of the required pot size. Most often, when transplanting murray, experts advise choosing a pot that will be 1-2 centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one.

No need to exaggerate with dimensions. After all, then, all the liquid during irrigation will accumulate at the roots of the plant, which can lead to an irreversible process of decay of the root system.

When choosing a pot, pay attention to its stability and the material from which it is made. Best to choose flower pots made of plastic, which have a wide pallet. This provides a secure base for the pot.

The soil

In order for the plant to develop well and bloom in a timely manner, when planting or transplanting a flower, it is necessary to choose the right soil.

So, it is believed that for murray the best option is nutritious and loose earth. Its acidity can reach 6 - 7.5 pH.

If you plan to purchase soil in a store, then, first of all, your choice should fall on the soil, which is intended for citrus cultivation. At the same time, you will need to add a little perlite or vermiculite to this soil (this will increase the looseness of the earth).

If desired, the soil for murrayi can be prepared on its own. To do this, you need to mix leaf and sod land, humus and coarse sand. All ingredients are combined with each other in a ratio of 2:2:2:1.

Do not forget that before pouring out the soil, drainage is necessarily lined at the bottom of the pot. To do this, you can use expanded clay or small pebbles.

Transfer

Murraya, like other indoor flowers, needs to be replanted every year. For this procedure, a pot is prepared in advance, which must necessarily be larger than the previously used and the above soil.

When transplanting a flower, you need to be careful and careful, because the plant has very fragile roots that are quite easy to damage. In order not to disturb the root system of the flower, you can apply a simpler method of transplantation. To do this, the top layer of earth of 5 centimeters is removed and sprinkled with a new one. It is not recommended to compact the soil.

An important condition for transplanting murray is the location of the root neck. It is necessary that it is always located at the top, and not deepened into the ground.

Upon completion of the process of transplanting murray, the plant will need to be watered!

Fertilizers and top dressing

The most suitable period for feeding murray is the time from March to September. It is recommended to alternately use mineral and organic fertilizers.

During the period of active growth of the plant, top dressing is desirable to carry out once a month.

If top dressing is carried out too often, then with the onset of flowering, swollen buds may not open.

For greater efficiency, liquid product fertilizers can be used. At high concentrations, they must be diluted in purified water. Using this technique will speed up the growth of the flower, and significantly strengthen the entire root system of murray.

Watering

When the plant begins to grow actively, it is very important to water it regularly. To do this, you will need to use purified, or settled for several days, water. Make sure that there are no impurities in the liquid limescale or other harmful substances.

The fact that a plant needs to be watered is easy to determine by the state of its land. As soon as the soil dries out a little, this means that the flower is ready to receive the next portion of the liquid.

With the onset of cold weather, the frequency of watering is significantly reduced, and with the onset of a dormant period, it may stop altogether.

Temperature regime

For the active growth of murray in the warm season, the mark on the thermometer can reach 25 degrees. And with the onset of cold weather, the thermometer should show at least 17 degrees.

Murraya must be protected from sudden changes in temperature and strong drafts. It is for this reason that the flower must be placed away from the air conditioner, vents and balcony doors.

Air humidity

Murraya, a type of panicled, will adapt quite positively to a reduced level of humidity even if it is very cool outside.

When the dryness in the house reaches a critical point, the plant may begin to wither and dry out. To avoid the death of the plant, its crown can occasionally be watered with warm boiled water. It is also possible to carry out the bathing procedure under the shower jets. This helps not only to revitalize the foliage, but also helps to get rid of dust.

pruning

To make it easier for the plant to develop during the period of its active growth, it is imperative to prune. If the shoots reach large sizes, then they can be shortened to the desired look. Thus, it will be possible to create such a shape of a tree that you have long dreamed of.

Varieties of dwarf and miniature murray do not need pruning. Even without this method, they branch very well and have a wonderful appearance, and unusual crown shapes.

At own desire pruning is carried out at any time of the year. Although, usually, no one risks endangering the flower and carries out the procedure as needed.

Diseases and pests

Murraya, with poor care, insufficient lighting and watering, becomes susceptible to damage from plant pests such as spider mite and shield.

If the flower lacks nutrients in the soil, then the leaves may change their color and become more lethargic. To correct this, it is necessary to use fertilizers of a mineral and organic nature.

In bright sunlight, the leaves can get severely burned, and also dry out a little along the edges and in the central part.

If the humidity level in the room is very low, then murraya may begin to shed ripe flower stalks. In order not to harm the plant even more, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of spraying and bathing in the shower.

Bloom

With proper care, murraya is capable of continuous flowering. But most often this unique process occurs from spring to mid-autumn.

At the same time, small white flowers open on the plant. Unfortunately, this unusual spectacle can only last a few days. The flowers have a pleasant aroma, which is somewhat similar to how jasmine smells.

After the flowers fall, small berries appear, which are painted red. They are edible, so they are often used to prepare various dishes.

If the humidity is low and the air temperature in the room is too high, then murray pollen will not be able to perform its main function.

reproduction

The main way to propagate murray paniculata at home is to use seeds. In order to be sure of their 100% ascent, the seeds must be prepared in advance.

Sowing seeds is carried out immediately, as soon as they are freed from the pulp.

In order for the seeds to sprout quickly, it is necessary to maintain a slightly elevated temperature of 25-28 degrees.

When planting, the seeds will need to be immersed in sand, approximately half a centimeter, after which the container in which they are located is covered with glass.

The first shoots can be seen in a few weeks.

rest period

In winter, a dormant period begins for murray. At this time, it is recommended to maintain the temperature in the room at least 16 degrees. Also, a sufficient amount of light plays a very important role.

Watering for several months is significantly reduced, and the use of fertilizers should be completely abandoned.

Plant toxicity and beneficial properties

When deciding to start growing murray in the house, you care not only about the plant itself, but also about the health of those around you. After all, as you know, the elements that the plant emits (phytoncides and aromatic oils) purify the air very well in the room. The aroma of flowers that bloom during flowering normalizes sleep and has a calming effect on nervous system person.

This plant can be used as a medicine. So, it can reduce the symptoms of diseases such as cardiac ischemia, angina pectoris, high blood pressure.

Murraya fruits are advised to be eaten by people suffering from diabetes. The unique properties of these fruits help control blood sugar levels.

With proper care, murraya will not only become an excellent decoration in your home, it also helps to maintain a person's normal well-being and create an atmosphere of comfort and tranquility in the house!

Muraya is an evergreen tree or shrub that can grow up to 2 meters in height. Most often, flower growers grow panicled muraya. flower at proper care able to bloom and bear fruit from early spring to late autumn. This adds a certain zest to the bush. It's so beautiful when you can simultaneously see snow-white, fragrant flowers and fruits of all shades, from bright red to dark green. Unfortunately, not all lovers of an exotic guest from the tropics can achieve such an interesting effect.

What is necessary for its rapid and long flowering? Naturally, comfortable conditions maintenance and absence of disease. How can this be achieved? Here are some tips.

Muraya is very sensitive to proper lighting. She feels best in places where the light is bright enough, but the direct rays of the sun do not burn the delicate foliage. As a rule, these are southeast or west windows. On the southern window sills, the flower runs the risk of getting burned, and on the northern windowsills, the muraya will wither from lack of light. In both cases, you will not wait for flowering.
The tropical guest is not indifferent to moisture, and therefore she needs daily and plentiful watering. In winter, it is better to reduce it somewhat so that the top layer can dry slightly.
Spraying a flower is also vital, especially in winter, when the air in the apartments is overdried by heating appliances. Too low humidity provokes the fall of flowers and buds, as well as spider mite disease.
Due to the tendency of muraya to chlorosis, watering should be done only with well-settled, and preferably with melt or rain water. For the same reason, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used.
During the growing season, and especially with the beginning of flowering, the plant needs regular alternate feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers. The procedure must be carried out monthly. But remember that an excess of nutrients will lead to the formation large volume leaf mass, and the plant will not have the strength to bloom.
Despite its love of moisture, muraya does not tolerate waterlogging. Therefore, it needs a loose, permeable substrate and a good drainage layer. With excessive moisture, the root system rots and the plant is threatened with death. In this case, there is no longer any talk of flowering.
Muraya, especially at a young age, requires an annual transplant into a larger pot. But if the diameter of the new container exceeds the previous one by more than 2 cm, then in this case the plant will give all its strength to the development of the root system. Muraya blooms profusely only in cramped pots!
If the temperature regime is violated, the muraya will also feel bad. She does not like excessive heat above +25 ° C. Much better for the plant at lower temperatures, which in winter should not exceed +17 °C. Protect the tropical inhabitant from drafts and other sharp temperature fluctuations. This can lead to the loss of flowers and buds, as well as various diseases.
Muraya flowers also have one more feature - they do not tolerate the touch of hands. Enjoy their snow-white petals and wonderful aroma from a distance.

Muraya is a representative of the Rutov family, in the nature of which there are about 12 species. This perennial plant is able to give an exotic color to any room.

Leaves and fruits of muraya can be to eat, while they contain substances that have a beneficial effect on health.

Types of muraya

At home, only 2 types of muraya are grown:

Muraya Koeniga(in Latin Murraya koenigii). It grows naturally in India. This plant reaches a height of six meters. The leaves are narrow, pinnate and very long - up to 22 cm. The flowers of this muraya are white, arranged in inflorescences of 30-80 in one. The fruits are oblong, shiny, black. One fruit of Muraya Koenig contains only one seed. The leaves of this variety of muraya are used to make a popular Indian curry seasoning.
Muraya exotica(in Latin murraya exotica). It is also called "panicle". It grows in areas of Northern Australia, but is also found in Asia. Unlike Muraya Koenig, which looks like a tree, this species is a fast-growing shrub, sometimes reaching a height of three meters. The leaves grow no more than 15 cm in length, and the upper leaves of this muraya are larger than the lower ones. Special Interest in this species, they are not flowers, but bright reddish fruits, the aroma of which can only be compared with an orange.

IN room conditions more often grown dwarf variety panicled muraya. This bush grows for a very long time and does not gain more than half a meter in height.

Muraya care

Care for this plant has its own specifics, although it does not pose much of a problem. If you correctly follow all the recommendations, muraya will reward you with a lovely view and a wonderful aroma.

Lighting and temperature

Muraya loves good illumination, but does not tolerate direct sunlight well, so for her better fit scattered light.

Perfect muraya location- western or eastern window sills.

You can put a pot of muraya on the south window, but then you have to shade it from the sun during the daytime. The main thing here is not to overdo it with protection from excess light - in low light, muraya starts intensely drop leaves.

In the spring and summer months, this plant will feel good at a temperature of 22-25 ° C, while in winter the room should be slightly cooler, but not lower than 15 ° C. If the temperature drops below these indications, muraya will start fade and hurt.

Watering mode and air humidity

In the warm months of the year, muraya is required a lot of moisture. It is necessary to water it at this time often, but do not allow the earth in the pot to be too wet and, even more so, to stagnate. It's for education root rot.

From September-October, at the first cold snap and until the end of winter, watering should be reduced and carried out only when the top layer of the soil has dried out well. Water for watering muraya must first be defended or boiled.

Dry air is not very terrible for this plant, but in hot weather it is better to moisten it all the same so that the leaves do not begin to dry out and fall off. Recommended daily spray muraya with water at room temperature, or place the pot in a tray filled with wet expanded clay.

Fertilizer

Too often to feed muraya Not recommended, as it will produce abundant foliage growth despite the fact that the flowers will almost cease to form.

Optimal mode- once a month, applying mineral fertilizers and organic matter in turn. Good for these purposes top dressing for bonsai.

Should not be allowed so that chlorine is contained in the fertilizer for muraya, since this plant may suffer from a disease such as chlorosis.

In winter, muraya is fed a little more often than in warm seasons.

Transplantation and soil composition

Transplant this plant is needed as its growth increases. For young seedlings, an annual transplant is required, and for older plants, this procedure is needed much less frequently. It will be enough to pour fresh soil on top.

First, a suitable pot is selected, which will be a couple of centimeters larger than the old one. Plant very carefully removed from the pot along with the soil, shaken slightly and planted in a new soil. In order not to damage the roots during transplantation, it is advisable to use a special spatula to extract the plant.

The soil for muraya it is necessary to select neutral or slightly acidic. If you make the mixture yourself, you need to take turf, leaf soil and humus in equal parts, as well as half of the coarse sand.

Can be used purchased soil, intended for succulents, diluting it with any baking powder. At the bottom of the pot a thick layer of drainage should be laid.

reproduction

Muraya is propagated cutting method And seed. Cuttings are taken only from adult plants, cut off and placed in a container of water, after which they wait for the formation of roots. When the roots appear, the cuttings are planted in separate pots.

With the seed method of reproduction use bones from the fruits of muraya. They are planted in the soil and waiting for the emergence of seedlings. This process usually takes about a month. Bushes are formed for 3-4 months.

Muraya pests and diseases

This plant can affect, and. Regularly rinsing the muraya with warm water in the shower can prevent the appearance of pests. And if they have already appeared, only insecticides will help.

Medicinal properties

This plant has been famous since ancient times for its exceptional healing qualities. When flowering, it releases into the air special essential oils, which not only have a calming effect, but also help reduce the likelihood of heart attacks by almost 2 times.

In the fruits of muraya contains a lot of vitamins and antioxidants that delay the aging of the body. They are able to lower blood pressure, normalize blood sugar levels, and also improve the condition with all kinds of diseases of the heart and blood vessels.

The leaves of this plant have analgesic and wound healing properties, they are effectively used for the treatment of diseases of the oral cavity, toothache, sore throat, gastritis, stomatitis, diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, as well as diseases of the joints as a local remedy.