Insulation of the floor in the bath. How to insulate the floor in a bath in a washing room: features and varieties of floors, do-it-yourself insulation What dangers await you if the steam room is not properly insulated

• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside, paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Scheme of warming the bath from the outside.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room: step by step instructions(video and photo)

Warming a steam room with your own hands is quite simple. You just need to read the step-by-step instructions and prepare everything you need for work.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step instructions

Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. The thermal insulation of this room can be called high-quality if the insulation work is done with the ceiling, floor and walls.

The steam room must be kept at a high temperature. At the same time, heat loss should be minimized, and warming the steam room from the inside will help to achieve the required level of thermal protection. When erecting a bath building, this room should be equipped in accordance with all the rules.

The better the thermal protection of the steam room will be, the less fuel will be required to heat it during operation, and the steam that has a beneficial effect on the human body will be able to stay in it longer. Regardless of the material of construction of the bath, the process of insulation necessarily consists of thermal insulation of the ceiling, flooring and walls.

Materials used in the arrangement of steam rooms

To produce internal insulation steam rooms, in the old days people used only environmentally friendly materials. They not only retained heat well and were easy to use, but at the same time had a number of disadvantages, including susceptibility to the rotting process.

Modern materials meet many requirements for them:

• successfully withstand high temperatures;
• tolerate high humidity;
• do not emit substances harmful to human health;
• look aesthetically pleasing.

In order to perform thermal insulation of the steam room from the inside, use the following building materials:

• wooden slats(for arranging the crate);
• mineral wool or glass wool;
• polyethylene film;
• penoizol (can be replaced with aluminum foil);
• expanded polystyrene;
• perlite;
• concrete mortar;
• reinforcing mesh.

Before you insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside, you should prepare the tools:

For the interior lining of the steam room, wooden slats, boards or lining are most often chosen, which depends on the personal preferences of the owner of the building. It is the tree that meets the operational requirements for such premises.

Hardwoods with a low density are ideal - these are alder, maple, linden and aspen. As for conifers, at high temperatures, their wood will begin to release resin.

Warming the walls of the steam room from the inside

Properly executed insulation of the walls of the steam room from the inside is a structure of several layers: steam, hydro and heat insulating. Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of the first of them, since it must protect the remaining layers from the influence of hot steam. If it penetrates the insulation, this material can get wet and lose all its properties.

Most often, vapor barrier is equipped with the use of aluminum foil or special insulators that are coated with a foil layer, for example, it can be penoizol (the material is shown in the photo). At the same time, experts do not recommend using such well-known vapor barriers as roofing material, polyethylene, glassine when lining a steam room, since at high temperatures they begin to release toxins that are dangerous to human health.

In turn, the foil prevents the insulation from getting wet and at the same time provides the effect of a thermos, as a result of which heat will be retained inside the room for a long time.

Waterproofing is essential to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture. The fact is that a poorly laid waterproofing material in conditions of high humidity, namely such air in a steam room, can provoke the onset of the process of decay. The appearance of mold and fungus on the walls can cause irreparable harm to both the structure and human health.

For waterproofing, foil or special film materials are most often used. The joints of the canvases must be sealed with adhesive tape to prevent the penetration of steam and condensate into the thermal insulation. All these materials for arranging waterproofing are mounted using a construction stapler.

The next layer when creating the thermal protection of the steam room will be the installation of thermal insulation, which is made using materials that have the property of retaining heat. These include mineral wool and glass wool.

The first of the above heaters is an environmentally friendly natural product. But mineral wool afraid of moisture and loses its properties when wet. When using mineral wool, it is necessary by all possible means to prevent the penetration of moist air, therefore this insulation is carefully wrapped with foil and films.

Glass wool differs from mineral wool in that it does not get wet and therefore it can be used to insulate a steam room with inside. When the steam room is insulated from the inside, the step-by-step instructions suggest that work should begin with fixing a wooden crate to the walls, to which the insulation is then mounted.

Thermal protection of the floor and ceiling from the inside

Basically, heat loss in the steam room occurs due to insufficient thermal insulation of the ceiling, since warm air flows always rise upwards. For this reason, the ceiling should be insulated not only from the side of the room, but also from the side of the attic.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the side of the steam room is performed in the same way as it is done with walls. First of all, fix the wooden crate. Then a heat-insulating material is attached to it, preferably glass wool. From above it is covered with a vapor barrier, and already an outer finishing layer is mounted on it - most often a lining.

As for the ceiling from the side of the attic, it can be additionally insulated with straw, clay, sawdust or other materials. Special mastics are used near the chimney pipe for fire safety.

Currently, various floor coverings are being installed in the steam rooms. You can insulate the floor, for example, with polystyrene foam. This material is distinguished by high mechanical strength, rather low thermal conductivity, and besides, once in a humid environment, it does not change its qualities.

When with its use the steam room is insulated from the inside - step by step work as follows:

1. A waterproofing layer is placed on the prepared even base, using a special film, on which polystyrene foam boards are laid tightly one to the other.
2. To give the structure greater strength in order to increase the service life, a reinforcing mesh is mounted on the expanded polystyrene and a concrete solution is poured. When performing work, one must not forget about arranging a slight slope to ensure the drainage of water.
3. After the final hardening of the concrete, which usually takes about a month, you can start laying the finishing floor surface. A good option is laying ceramic tiles.

It is also possible to insulate the floor of the steam room with the help of such a natural material as perlite, which is sand expanded by a special method. To create insulation, take 2 parts of perlite and part of water, mix and combine with cement. The whole mass is well mixed.

The base of the steam room floor is poured with a concrete screed, on top of which an insulating mixture is placed and allowed to dry for a week. Then they make a screed again and complete the work with a finishing floor covering from a finishing material.

Sometimes in the steam room on a high-quality concreted, durable and reliable floor, wooden gratings are placed, which should be dried periodically during operation to avoid rotting and rapid deterioration.

How to insulate a steam room?

• What will be required to carry out the work?
• Stage 1: ceiling insulation
• Stage 2: wall insulation
• Stage 3: floor insulation
• Stage 4: warming in the steam room outside

Often, the problem of thermal insulation of apartments and houses is not paid attention, but for baths it is of particular importance. After all, if you do not insulate the steam room, then heat will not linger in it for a long time. Therefore, it is so important to insulate the bath from the inside. paying special attention to the steam room. After all, it is in it that you have to spend more time.

At the same time, it is necessary to carry out the warming of the steam room with high quality, performing all the work in stages. Below is a step by step guide. She will help you in this not easy, but so important matter.

What will be required to carry out the work?

The first step is to prepare all the materials and tools that will be needed to insulate the steam room. Here is their list:

• rolled heat-insulating material;
• bars;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• screwdriver;
• saw;
• foil;
• Styrofoam;
• glass wool;
• waterproofing material;
• polyethylene film;
• blank paper;
• masking tape;
• wood material for sheathing (linden, aspen);
• anti-corrosion composition;
• building level;
• facade panels;
• water-repellent varnish for wood.

Stage 1: ceiling insulation

Scheme of insulation of the ceiling in the steam room.

First of all, thermal insulation in the steam room should be made for the ceiling. First you need to cover it with roll paper, it is important that its joints are overlapped (from 10 to 15 cm). After that, it must be strengthened, otherwise deformation will occur during further work. To do this, you need to take the sticks (size 5x5 cm) and nail them to the rolled heat-insulating material.

It is important here to create a monolithic coating so that seams with gaps do not form, otherwise the tightness of the waterproofing will be broken.

As a result, steam will penetrate into the rolled thermal insulation material, which will lead to its deformation and deterioration of its performance.

Scheme of the ceiling device in the steam room.

Now you need to fix the foil with additional blocks. This will prevent it from peeling off, and the finished crate will allow you to quickly lay the finishing material. It should be wood. The use of non-environmentally friendly materials here is simply unacceptable. After all, you will inhale those harmful substances that they emit when taking water procedures in the bath. As a result, instead of improving your health, you will, on the contrary, worsen it. It's great if you use linden or aspen for ceiling cladding. These materials emit special resins that heal the body and make the atmosphere in the bath better, as a pleasant smell spreads.

You can fix the finishing material on nails, be sure to pre-treat them with an anti-corrosion compound. The wood itself must be coated with a water-repellent varnish. It is best to do this before it is fixed to the ceiling. After all, then you can process it from all sides at once, which will extend its service life.

With the help of boards you need to create an even surface. To avoid distortion, be sure to use the building level. In addition, for finishing, choose only those boards that have the same thickness, otherwise differences in height in the finished coating cannot be avoided.

Stage 2: wall insulation

The scheme of wall insulation in the bath.

Do not assume that only the ceiling needs to be insulated. The walls also need additional finishing with insulating materials. Therefore, having completed work with the ceiling, you will need to move on to them. It is also necessary to start wall insulation with the laying out of roll material. It must then be nailed with a wooden frame, on which the foil is immediately lined. But here it is necessary to take it with a thickness of 65-70 mm. After all, much more heat escapes through the walls than through the ceiling. Therefore, the use of thinner material here is not permissible. Lay it with an overlap, and glue all the joints several times with masking tape. Then it will be possible to make the surface of the walls as airtight as possible. As a result, the steam room will be as warm as possible.

After that, a wooden frame is installed on the foil fixed on the surface of the walls. And the finishing material is already mounted on it. It is not necessary to use boards here. you can choose lining for the walls. By the way, the ceiling can also be finished with it, but then the insulation in the steam room bath will cost a pretty penny, but if you have allocated a significant budget for this, then feel free to opt for this material. Aesthetic and operational properties you will not be disappointed. Wall decoration will turn out well and will delight every time you take water procedures.

Stage 3: floor insulation

The scheme of floor insulation in the bath.

Now you can insulate the floor in the steam room. Here, work is carried out according to a slightly different scheme. The first step is to make waterproofing. It is necessary so that mold, fungus and rotting do not appear inside the floor. This layer will protect the floor from condensation. To create it, you will need to use plastic wrap. It is laid out on the entire surface of the floor. If there are seams, then make large joints and glue them with masking tape.

Next, you need to create another layer on top of the film. It must be laid out from clean thick paper. It is necessary so that no harmful substances are released from the base of the floor. In addition, such a layer will minimize the loss of hot air. It will definitely need to fix a wooden frame of small width. And on the frame you need to lay out and fix the mineral wool slabs with self-tapping screws.

Then the following material is laid out on the floor surface: foam. It needs to be fixed on top of the cotton wool on small carnations. After that, it will need to be covered with foil, and put the plastic film on it again. So many layers must be created in order to minimize the heat leakage through the floor, which occurs through it in large quantities. As a result, the insulation will turn out to be of very high quality.

And the last thing that needs to be done is to create another frame on the floor surface. It should be thicker than the previous one. It is necessary for subsequent finishing. After all, on the surface of the floor you will need to lay out the boards. Treat them with water-repellent varnish.

Stage 4: warming in the steam room outside

If your bath is wooden, then you must definitely insulate it from the outside. After all, a sealed floor, walls and ceiling in this case will not be enough. Therefore, here it is necessary to create a crate outside the bath, mineral wool slabs should be laid on it. They need to be fixed with screws or nails. After that, a polyethylene film is lined. Next, facade panels are laid on it. All of them must be covered with varnish. This will protect them from adverse factors environment.

Of these stages, the warming in the steam room consists. As it becomes clear, complex work is needed here. It is not enough to insulate only the surface of the walls and floor, you also need to remember about the ceiling and the outer skin. This is the only way to get quality work done. Its result will not disappoint you. And since all the instructions are presented in accessible form and is step-by-step, then using it, you can do everything yourself.

The main thing is to prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. We wish you good luck in warming the steam room!

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands

Foreword. In Russia, from ancient times, baths were built from log cabins, today, along with this traditional material, timber, foam block, expanded clay and other modern materials are used. Thermal insulation of the steam room will solve the problem of rapid heat loss and the heat from the steam room will not go away so quickly.

How to properly insulate a steam room wooden bath? The thermal insulation of the dressing room and the steam room will be of high quality if the work touches all three planes of the steam room - the floor, walls and ceiling. Most of the heat leaves through the ceiling of the bath, but other surfaces should not be ignored, including the door in the bath. Consider how to properly insulate the steam room in the bath.

Do I need to insulate the steam room in the bath

Photo. Warming the steam room from the inside with your own hands

Despite the low thermal conductivity of modern and traditional materials, any steam room needs high-quality insulation. Especially when it comes to internal thermal insulation of structures in the steam room - walls, floors and ceilings. Insulation of the steam room is a very responsible matter; during work, you should strictly follow the instructions of the manufacturers and take into account other nuances.

For example, not all heat and vapor barrier materials can be used to finish the floor and ceiling in the bath. Many materials do not withstand moisture, and if roofing material or glassine is used in this room, then a visit to the steam room can ruin unpleasant odors from these materials. The choice of thermal insulation is carried out depending on the material from which the bath was built.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath from the inside

The most common materials for the construction of bath walls are logs, timber, foam concrete, aerated concrete or expanded clay concrete. Compared with natural wood, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is higher, which means that the thermal insulation of the steam room is simply necessary. But, before considering the technology of work, you should figure out how and how to insulate the steam room in a bath from a bar with your own hands.

If basalt wool was chosen as thermal insulation, then high-quality vapor barrier of mineral wool should be made, since this material absorbs moisture. The most balanced solution for finishing wet rooms is penoplex or foil penofol. Extruded polystyrene foam is often used for self-insulation strip foundation and blind areas of a private house.

For owners of baths from blocks, there is no question whether or not to insulate the room from the inside. It is important to learn how to insulate a steam room in a bath from blocks on your own. The technology of thermal insulation is divided into three main stages: the arrangement and insulation of walls, floors, and the ceiling of the steam room of a brick bath. All work can be done on your own and inexpensively.

How to insulate the walls of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of walls in a log steam room

The thermal insulation of log walls in the steam room from the inside is a layered "pie" of vapor barrier, heat-insulating and waterproofing layer. The vapor barrier film on the side of the warm room protects the mineral wool from moisture and steam, in addition, it additionally creates the effect of a "thermos" in the steam room and is a natural heat reflector.

Rolled waterproofing prevents moisture from entering walls made of logs or timber, protects the structure from condensation and the formation of fungus and prevents the process of decay of the structure. To do this, use a polyethylene film, foamed polyethylene or foil. The waterproofing film is laid between the thermal insulation layer and the walls in a steam room made of blocks or wood.

The insulation layer itself is laid between the guides fixed on the wall. When installing the frame, please note that the distance between the guides must be 1 cm less than the width of the mineral wool slab so that the basalt slab fits snugly into the frame. If you are using slab thermal insulation, then all the cracks should be thoroughly foamed.

How to insulate the ceiling of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

If many people neglect the thermal insulation of the walls, then it is simply necessary to do the ceiling insulation in the steam room with your own hands in any bathhouse. Since this part of any structure is the most vulnerable in terms of heat loss. Through the ceiling of the steam room, hot air leaves the room in a short time.

For the thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room, inexpensive pasture materials were previously used - sawdust mixed with ordinary earth or expanded clay. Loose thermal insulation covered the ceiling boards above the steam room, thereby significantly reducing the heat loss of the room. These "old-fashioned" methods, even with the advent of new materials, have not lost their relevance to this day.

The ideal option for finishing the ceiling in a steam room is the thermal insulation of this design from the outside, i.e. from the attic side. To do this, use glass wool or basalt insulation. Where the chimney pipe comes out of the ceiling, non-combustible insulation should be used - expanded clay or Rocklite Mineral Wool. Consider further how to insulate the floor in the steam room.

How to insulate the floor of the steam room with your own hands

Photo. Floor insulation in the steam room with foam

Consider a more common option for thermal insulation of the floor in the steam room - using polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam. Extrusion penoplex meets all the necessary requirements for thermal insulation of wet rooms. This material does not absorb moisture, is not afraid of rodents, but the insulation should be laid only on a flat base.

Most often, the floor in the bath is insulated under the screed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on the ground to protect against groundwater, then slab insulation. Gaps and cracks between the plates should be sealed with mounting foam. At the end, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is made. For concrete waterproofing, penetron or liquid glass should be used.

To finish the floor in the steam room, floor tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. You can also lay the wooden floor on the logs, which will be more pleasant and warm for the feet.

How to insulate a steam room

Without a good steam room, a bath loses its meaning of existence. During the construction of baths, special attention is paid to this room. The main task of the steam room is to store hot air and steam for a long time, to ensure the quality of bathing procedures at the highest level. A main job builders - to carry out the warming of the steam room in the bath in such a way as to exclude long heating and rapid cooling, to increase the concentration of steam.

Poorly performed thermal insulation work, the use of low-quality materials will inevitably lead to the appearance of dampness, mold, and rotting of wooden structures. This applies to all surfaces of the steam room: floor, walls, ceiling. It is very important to scrupulously and step by step carry out work on warming the steam room from the inside, step-by-step instructions will help you correctly navigate the sequence of actions and the choice of materials.

The choice of insulation

The steam room is a specific room, so the choice of heat-insulating materials for walls, ceiling and floor should be approached responsibly. Insulation for the steam room must be moisture resistant, not afraid of significant temperatures, not emit toxic substances. Most of all, mineral wool fits these definitions, or rather its variety - stone or basalt wool. It is produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses and dimensions. The material is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife, so stone wool slabs are very easy to fit. the right dimensions. To equip the floor and ceiling from the outside, loose insulation is used - expanded clay or expanded perlite.

As a vapor and waterproofing for steam rooms, foil material is the most suitable. It is available in foam or kraft paper. You can use any of them, but in the case of warming the steam room from the inside, preference is usually given to the second option.

The procedure for performing insulation procedures

The process of warming the steam room in the bath goes from top to bottom. That is, work begins to be done from the ceiling, then the walls and, last but not least, the floor. It will not be superfluous to remind you that before starting insulation work, you should clean wooden surfaces from dust, signs of fungal manifestations. It is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptic preparations and a fire retardant, since it is possible to insulate the steam room in the bath from the inside efficiently and effectively only on a well-prepared basis.

Ceiling insulation

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is most conveniently performed from the side of the attic. Ideally, do it from both sides, because the ceiling is one of the most vulnerable parts of any building, especially a bath. It is through this design that the largest proportion of heat loss from the inside occurs. So from above:

• a layer of a rolled vapor barrier is attached to the draft ceiling, tightly closing all joints and making an overlap on the gable and truss elements;
• pour a layer of expanded clay or foamed perlite, level it;
• in places where the thermal insulation comes into contact with the chimney, they are treated with fire-retardant mastics.

Insulation of a steam room in a wooden bath from the inside on the ceiling is as follows. If the ceiling structure below has a smooth surface, then a frame is built along it. In the case of ribs, this is not necessary. The first layer of the heat-insulating cake is a vapor barrier membrane, which is attached to the base, observing the configuration of the ribbed surface. Then, stone wool slabs are laid as tightly as possible between the beams and covered with another layer of vapor barrier. The next stage of warming the steam room, its upper part, is the installation of a protective layer of foil material. Joints between individual sheets are sealed with aluminum foil tape. Particular attention must be paid to the places where the ceiling meets the walls in order to prevent the slightest possibility of the appearance of "cold bridges". Use if necessary mounting foam.

Baths are built not only from wood, there are options for brick buildings. In such buildings, the process of performing thermal insulation work looks somewhat different. Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath begins at the stage of construction of the roof structure. Supporting ceiling beams, which are to be embedded in brick walls, are wrapped with two to three layers of glassine or roofing material before laying. The nests for them are made a little wider than the beams themselves, the free space is filled with mounting foam or mortar. Outside, the recesses are covered with masonry. Next, the installation of the ceiling structure is carried out, and the insulation is performed in the same way as in the log house.

Wall insulation

Insulation of wall surfaces brick bath start with applying a waterproofing layer on them. Most often, roll materials or mastics that do not contain bitumen are used. Because the specific smell of this material when heated can penetrate into the room and spoil the positive impression of visiting the steam room. Further, the process of producing heat-insulating works for walls made of brick and wood is the same and is performed in the following order:

• vertically arranged bars are stuffed on the walls with a step equal to the width of the stone wool slabs;
• with the help of a construction stapler, a vapor barrier membrane is attached, carefully wrapping each beam with it;
• heat-insulating material is tightly laid between the bars in one or two layers, depending on the thickness of the plates; stone wool slightly springy, so it holds well on its own and does not require additional fastening;
• the upper vapor barrier layer is made of aluminum foil on kraft paper, you can use foam-based foil material, but the first option works more reliably in wet conditions.

The foil is fixed end-to-end, and the seams are closed with a special adhesive-based protective tape. All work must be carried out carefully and responsibly, but special care must be taken when sealing corners and junctions of walls with a ceiling surface.

Floor insulation

To make warm floors in the steam room is no less important than to insulate the walls and ceiling with high quality. Two options can be used: using plate materials or bulk materials. However, in both cases, it is necessary to start with surface leveling and rough preparation. And here, too, there can be two versions: with and without a drain. By and large, they do not use water in the steam room, so there is no need to arrange a drain hole there. But some builders do. Then, when arranging the sex cake, starting from the preparatory layer, slopes are made towards the drain. Otherwise, the floor must be strictly horizontal. Now about the floor design itself:

1. Insulation with expanded polystyrene boards. According to rough preparation, a layer of waterproofing is laid with a slight overlap on the walls. Then the insulation boards are laid in one or two rows, depending on the thickness. The next step is the laying of the reinforcing mesh and then the screed with a cement-sand mortar.
2. Expanded clay or perlite is used for insulation with bulk materials. First, waterproofing must be done. Then they pour a layer of dry insulation of the required thickness, level it with a plaster rule according to the level. The cover layer is made with a concrete mixture or mortar.

The clean floor in the sauna is made of rough ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware. Traditional wood flooring is often used. The deck board is doing great. In addition, its use is useful in terms of safety, since the board has a corrugated surface and does not slip.

Wall and ceiling cladding in the steam room

For cladding walls and ceilings in the steam room, wooden lining is usually used. Each owner chooses and equips the design of the steam room of the bath to his liking. However, there are general rules that must be followed. First of all, it is the type of wood from which the lining is made. The most suitable are linden, aspen, larch. It is undesirable to use rocks containing a large amount of resins. At high temperatures, they emit fumes with a heavy odor. The next requirement is that the lining should not have knots, cracks and other defects. That is, high-quality material is best suited for lining a steam room.

The principle of wall and ceiling cladding is traditional. On aluminum foil, a crate is made with the location of the timber for the planned layout of the lining. Then, planks are attached to the frame, connecting them with spike-groove locks.

Warming the steam room from the inside - step by step instructions

Before insulating the steam room, the owner of the bath must choose the right heat-insulating material, focusing on the following recommendations:

First, the insulator must exhibit high stopping power. The heat transfer coefficient must not rise above 0.2 W/(m K). And that's just for flooring. And for wall and ceiling insulation, it is better to use a material with a coefficient of 0.2 W / (m K).

Secondly, the insulator should not react to moisture. Especially floor material. For walls and ceilings, we can use a membrane or reflector that cuts off moisture, but in the case of the floor, this material will not pass.

Thirdly, an open (floor) insulator must have high mechanical strength. along the walls and attic floor there are no special requirements. Here the characteristics of the material can be improved due to the external finish.

Fourthly, the warming of the steam room involves constant contact of the material with the area of ​​high temperatures. Some fans manage to heat up the room to 100-120 degrees Celsius, and 75-80 ° C is considered normal temperature. Therefore, the insulation should not melt or catch fire even in the case of a long, many hours of stay in this temperature range.

Fifthly, the material must be absolutely neutral to the human body. Release of harmful substances and provocation allergic reactions excluded in principle. People go to the bath for health, not for new sores.

As a result, granular expanded clay should be recognized as the best option for insulation for the field. He is not afraid of any mechanical load or moisture. It is better to put ordinary or foil mineral (basalt) wool on the walls and ceiling. It will withstand heat, and a finishing layer will protect it from moisture and possible mechanical impact.

Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene, foil polyethylene are not suitable for warming the steam room - they cannot withstand heating even up to 70 degrees Celsius.

Well, now that we have selected the materials, we can proceed to the direct insulation of the steam room from the inside, having previously studied the step-by-step instructions for the floor, ceiling and walls.

How to insulate the floor - a layered review

To do this, we will have to form a multi-layer structure consisting of waterproofing, thermal insulation and finishing in the direction from the ground. The first layer is waterproofing. It is made in the form of a polyethylene film, which is laid on the prepared soil. Moreover, the preparation consists in adding a layer of sand, with a thickness of 15 centimeters.

The second layer is thermal insulation. It is formed on the basis of expanded clay bedding. The thickness of this layer is usually equal to twice the thickness of the walls and ranges from 30 to 40 centimeters. Moreover, upon completion of the formation of the bedding layer, we must reach the level of the first crown of the log cabin of the bath.

Expanded clay is perfect for thermal insulation of the steam room floor

Next, a reinforcing mesh with 20 cm cells is laid on the expanded clay and the screed is poured using a sand-cement mortar with filler. The optimal thickness of the screed is from 5 to 8 centimeters. At the same time, along the perimeter of the floor, at the level of the future plinth, it is necessary to fill a waterproofing foil skirt that protects the logs from contact with concrete.

For finishing a heat-resistant floor, use tile or boards laid on the crate.

We insulate the ceiling - step by step instructions

To insulate the ceiling in the steam room, a completely different heat insulator is needed - foil mineral wool. It withstands heating up to 700 degrees Celsius and can easily endure the usual temperature in this area of ​​the steam room, which does not rise above 160-180 ° C.

The finishing process itself begins with covering the ceiling with an antiseptic primer that protects the boards from fungus and mold. The second step is the stuffing of the crate boards on the ceiling, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the insulation (usually 10 centimeters). The step of laying the boards is equal to the width of a standard strip of mineral wool.

The ceiling is insulated with foil mineral wool

The third step is laying the insulation. After the assembly of the crate is completed, the space between the boards is filled with mineral wool, which is laid with foil outward (toward the floor). And all joints are carefully glued with foil tape. After completion of work on the ceiling, there should be no gaps.

The final step is the installation of a finishing board (lining) or plywood panels over the lathing. Moreover, in this case, it is necessary to read the description of the specification for the lining - options from pine and spruce and other resinous trees are not suitable in this case. The ideal lining for a bath is made from hardwood deciduous trees.

How to insulate walls in a steam room - an overview of the process

The arrangement of vertical thermal insulation on the walls of the bath does not require the use of expensive foil mineral wool. In this case, it is enough to take ordinary mineral wool and aluminum foil, which will serve as a good vapor barrier and screen from high temperatures.

The installation process itself is as follows:

• We impregnate the walls with an antiseptic - it will protect the log house from rot and fungus.
• We fill boards with a thickness of 3-4 centimeters and a width of 2-3 cm more than the depth of the insulation on the walls. The step of placing the boards should match the width of the mineral wool roll. At the end, all boards must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
• We lay mineral wool on dry logs (the antiseptic must dry), filling the spaces between the boards.
• We stuff aluminum foil over the crate, rolling it in horizontal stripes from the bottom up. In this case, the upper strip should overlap with the lower one (2-3 centimeters will be enough). And as fasteners it is better to use staples (from a stapler). Moreover, it is better to glue the joints with foil tape.
• We stuff planks 2 centimeters thick on the boards, previously impregnated with an antiseptic. So you will form a counter-lattice. And at the end, on top of these planks, we mount a hardwood lining.

Such a scheme allows you to collect very effective thermal insulation, protected from mechanical influences by lining. Therefore, almost all steam rooms are finished according to this scheme.

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step video instructions

Warming the steam room from the inside step-by-step video instructions Warming the steam room allows you to solve the problem of heat loss, otherwise the effect of visiting the bath will be reduced to zero. thermal insulation

Warming the steam room from the inside yourself

Bath helps us to relax not only with the body, but also with the soul.

Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their immediate function, but also please with an attractive appearance.

A few general rules

The first step before the next treatment is the preparation of work surfaces.

It is necessary to inspect the base for the presence of fungus and mold on it.

Extraneous inclusions and protrusions should also be absent.

To get rid of the fungus, it is enough to use the usual antiseptic composition.

Without it, the warming of the steam room from the inside will remain ineffective.

It is important to pay attention to the safety of materials.

The main requirement in this case is the ability to withstand high temperatures. Materials must not absorb moisture, must have reliable protection from mold.

And stay durable. Aluminum foil and basalt are good, modern solutions. The technology itself plays no less a role than the materials.

How can I insulate

In the course of the work, we will get a kind of "sandwich". It usually consists of several layers.

• Waterproofing. Prevents the appearance of fungal and mold formations. And prevents the activation of decay processes. This layer also protects the walls from the appearance of condensation on them. It is formed when hot steam is applied to the surface. Polyethylene film or foil are considered the best waterproofing materials. This is also required by warming the steam room from the inside in a wooden bath.
• Thermal insulation. Plain, clean paper is first laid on the base. The insulating layer comes only after that. The paper base makes it so that even the minimum amount of harmful substances is not emitted into the air. The paper makes sure that the minimum amount of hot air escapes. After that, a wooden frame is fixed on top with the same width as that of the insulation material itself. Synthetic board or mineral wool often make excellent insulators.
• To protect the thermal insulation from the effects of steam, a vapor barrier is needed. It also reflects heat radiation. And it creates a kind of "thermos" effect. This layer is made of foil, with a thickness of up to 65 microns. Installation is carried out to the crate made of wood. What are small nails or a stapler used for? The main thing is to carefully cover all edges and joints with foil. Then the steam will definitely not penetrate into the insulation.
• Internal lining. For which all surfaces are lined with clapboard. The frame is mounted on top of the thermal insulation layer. The lining itself, which is made from different types of wood, is also laid on the frame itself. The most important characteristic in this case is the minimum density.

What materials to choose

The question is not only to choose between materials of artificial and natural origin. Several other factors must also be taken into account.

This applies to appointments and appearance, cost. Materials that solve this issue can be classified into one of the following groups depending on their properties.

• Wall blocks and slabs.
• Matte and lamellar, fibrous varieties.
• Backfills with different densities

Several groups are also distinguished by chemical composition:

• They have a plastic base. This includes polystyrene and expanded polystyrene.
• Technoblocks and technovets. This is a group of techno-heaters.
• Among the inorganic compounds include glass and mineral wool, basalt fiber.
• On organic. These include arbolite and fibrolite, aquavata.

Each of the varieties has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, plastic heaters are not very suitable for warming steam rooms from the inside.

This is due to the fact that such a base does not resist the effects of open fire. But they can insulate other rooms included in the bath room.

In turn, organic bases win in terms of environmental safety. Their prices are always affordable. But if you don't use special formulations for processing, the material remains flammable.

Inorganic varieties are considered more versatile and practical. Thanks to this, mineral wool has become such a popular solution.

Internal insulation will be more effective with materials such as:

• aluminum foil
• Polyethylene materials
• Glassine base
• Ruberoid types

Vapor barrier with glassine and roofing material will not give the desired result. After all, these materials, when exposed to high temperatures, emit chemically active and harmful substances.

But glassine is generally often taken in order to insulate baths. But best of all, he proved himself in conjunction with materials such as lining, aluminum foil, mineral wool and log cabins.

There are several schemes according to which insulation is performed. But one of them is the most popular. For example, when lining with fibrous insulation is used.

• It all starts with the fact that a frame is created on the working wall surface. We take timber battens, horizontal and vertical, fix them on the wall. The beam should be thicker than the insulation, but only 20-30 millimeters. This margin is necessary to predict possible shifts.
• After that, the wall is sheathed using mineral wool.
• The vapor barrier layer is laid on the insulation. The main thing is to overlap the materials. For places with joints, their sealing, thin slats are used. A distance of approximately 3 centimeters must remain between the mineral wool and the vapor barrier.
• The lining is stuffed onto the surface of the vertical crate. The width of the latter is 40-50 mm. There is still a distance that will be a kind of gap for the ventilation system.

Such work has proven to be effective. But they require certain costs, both in time and in strength.

There are currently materials on the market that greatly simplify the whole process. Moreover, they combine the function of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

One of these options is foil foam. This is a fire-resistant insulation, during its installation there are no problems. As you can see, the technology for warming a steam room from the inside is not so complicated.

The scheme described above is well suited for the installation of timber buildings. Panel and frame structures have their own requirements for this process. There are several lightweight materials that will become indispensable assistants when working with panel walls:

Treatment of the heat insulator with lime milk is an additional requirement. In the future, it will be necessary to dry the base properly. Due to this, fire resistance is increased, rotting will no longer threaten the material.

If the walls are operated in difficult conditions in terms of climate, then the walls can be covered with fiberboard, or their analogue - reed slabs. In warm regions, the use of gypsum, cement and chip compounds will be relevant.

Ceiling work order

Ceilings suffer the most from exposure to temperatures that are often 160 degrees. The process of insulation and its features depend on what design the ceiling itself has.

The work will look like this if there is an attic or ceiling.

• We cover the ceiling boards with clay. Its layer should have a thickness of about 20 mm.
• Clay is needed in order to effectively retain moisture.
• Wood chips are poured into the cracks that form between the boards.
• Can be used for thermal insulation and other materials. The main thing is that their thickness should be at least 200 mm.

The insulation scheme for rooms where there is no attic looks somewhat different. First, a vapor barrier material is laid there. Sheathing and insulation layer are next, then - boards for the ceiling with beam beams.

Depending on the materials used and design features, the order of work will always vary.

Places where insulation and pipes are joined to each other. Between them it is necessary to make an indent of about 200 millimeters so as not to violate fire safety requirements. For this, a special box is constructed from the rafter legs.

It is he who will become the part that separates one part of the structure from another.

The main thing when warming a bath is to make sure that there are no places through which warm air could leave the room. It is also necessary to prevent the formation of condensate by all means.

About floor insulation

You can use two solutions to insulate the floor in the steam room.

Polystyrene has an important advantage in the form of a cellular structure. Due to this, moisture will never penetrate the material. Thermal insulation properties are retained high level, even if the surface is under severe mechanical stress.

Insulation of the steam room from the inside

But such material is most often used in baths that are built of brick.

It requires additional protection, because the brick itself easily conducts moisture inside.

Expanded polystyrene is a material that meets all safety requirements.

But the surface requires preliminary preparation before applying such a material.

The main requirements are strength and evenness. Do not do without thorough drying.

The waterproofing layer is laid on top of the material prepared in advance. Then, from above, the installation of the polystyrene foam plates themselves is carried out.

Here it is important to monitor the absence of places left without processing. Gaps and cracks can cause the formation of so-called cold bridges, therefore they should also be absent.

Decorative coatings are also laid on top, but only after the base has completely dried. Ceramic tiles are one of the best solutions today.

But it is also allowed to create a collapsible floor made of wood. It fits perfectly into the interior of the bath. And walking on such a surface is very pleasant. With a removable structure, it is possible to dry the boards without problems, which prolongs the overall service life.

About ventilation in the bath

It is impossible not to consider this issue, touching on the topic of insulation.

Particularly stringent requirements are imposed on this part of the system in the bath. Ventilation should not only ensure the flow of air into the room. It is important that it does not let the cold inside, but retains heat.

To solve this problem, it is necessary to create special supply and exhaust channels. Near the stove, a little above the floor level, there is an inlet.

As for the exhaust duct, it should be on the opposite side, in the upper part of the room. Special valves provide air flow regulation. It is necessary to observe one more condition for the system to work normally - so that the inlet opening is half as large as the exhaust one.

The work is regulated by valves. If properly managed, they can achieve the desired results. If you open only one valve, only pleasant aromas will remain in the room, the air will be fresh. intensive forced ventilation organized by opening two valves at once.

About floor waterproofing

The base and its materials determine which method of insulation is used in a particular case. Each method should be considered separately.

concrete floor insulation

This is the simplest and most affordable waterproofing solution for those with a steam room. It is suitable for washrooms, inside which the floor is completely filled with concrete. The order of work will be as follows.

• First, the floor surface is leveled until there are no deviations at all. Even the slightest dimples and tubercles are unacceptable.
• After that, proceed to the application bituminous mastic. You have to wait until it dries.
• Polyethylene film, roofing felt are laid on top of this layer.
• The base of the floor is ready, you can proceed to laying ceramic tiles.

There is also a second method. Its implementation is more difficult. But the result justifies all the costs, such waterproofing will pleasantly surprise you with high quality. Several steps need to be taken.

• A plywood sheet is fixed on the surface of the subfloor.
• Hydrosol is laid on top of plywood. This is a material whose edges lead beyond the wall.
• All joints in the waterproofing layer are reinforced with aluminum tape.
• The places of seams and joints that remained untreated are sealed with a conventional building hair dryer.
• Next comes the laying of the reinforced mesh, the laying of the concrete solution.
• The last stage includes decorative cladding.

So that all the walls do not get dirty, the lining is covered with tape. You also need to look at how old the log cabin for the bath is. Until the moment of complete shrinkage, buildings usually stand for at least two years. Otherwise, the floor surface will be deformed.

Isolate the wood floor

This method of insulation is very similar to what we wrote about earlier. It features the most simple step-by-step instructions.

• A layer of mineral wool mat is fixed under the lags, with a minimum thickness of 15 cm.
• Roofing material or euroroofing material is fixed over the first layer.
• Wooden structures require mandatory antiseptic treatment. This will eliminate the risk of rotting. And it will protect materials from spontaneous combustion, eating by insects.
• The draft floor should be laid already on top of the antiseptic layer. After that, everything is sheathed using lining.
• Only decorative cladding remains.

Door insulation with mineral wool

Warming a bath is a process that takes place a little differently than in other rooms.

The main difference is the high temperature and humidity, which are constantly preserved here.

But it is not difficult to solve the problem if you follow simple rules.

Seals must be laid on the wall as tightly as possible.

This will avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks through which hot or cold air passes inside.

There will be less chance that excessive moisture and condensation will appear in the bath.

Drying of the insulation is provided only by ventilation gaps, therefore it is not recommended to forget about them.

Ceilings must withstand the highest temperatures, this is always worth remembering. The main thing is not to use materials that are too easy to deform for insulation in this part of the room.

Or those varieties that release harmful chemicals when exposed to high temperatures. Condensation collects on the plastic without problems.

Doors, thresholds in the room also affect the performance of thermal insulation. A large gap under the door can lead to a low heat capacity of the steam room. There is always a solution - it is enough to install low doors that have a large threshold.

• Warming the steam room from the inside yourself

  
  Bath helps us to relax not only with the body, but also with the soul. Therefore, it is important that finishing materials not only fulfill their direct function, but also

A bath is not just a place where you can cleanly wash yourself. Bath for a Russian person is a kind of club, even, if you like, a sanctuary. But even such a sacred place should not be cold and uncomfortable. The Russian bath should perfectly keep heat, keeping it for a long time. Yes, and washing in a room that instantly loses temperature is also not very pleasant. That is why good thermal insulation of all rooms in the bath becomes a very important task in its construction. It is necessary to insulate all parts in the bath: both the walls and the ceiling, and especially the floor.

How to insulate the floor in the bath

What materials to use for floor insulation?

Floor insulation materials

The high humidity and temperature that are constantly present when using a bath dictate a careful approach to the selection of materials used for thermal insulation of floors. In an ordinary room that does not have such extreme operating conditions, almost any mineral-based insulation can be used. But when insulating the floor in the bath experienced builders It is recommended to use heat-insulating material with a cellular structure. by the most suitable material, satisfying all high requirements is the foam of all types. It is widely used for floor insulation in rooms with high humidity.

Scheme of floor insulation with a ladder in the bath for the withdrawal of effluents

There are several approaches to the question of what material should be used to organize the floor in the bath rooms. So, it can be made of concrete, or it can be made of wood. When insulating floors of all types, there are some general rules that we will tell you about.

The scheme of the device floor in the bath

We warm the wooden floor in the bath

In the event that you have to insulate an existing wooden floor, then you will have to initially dismantle the existing flooring.

Removing the old coating

We carry out work according to the following algorithm:

1. We carry out the dismantling of floorboards and skirting boards. We recommend that you sign the removed elements in order not to get confused during further installation.
2. We check wooden elements. We cut out the damaged areas and replace them with fresh bars of identical dimensions.
3. We build up the lower edges of the lag with bars of a smaller dimension, creating a support for the rough floor.
4. Using cheap lumber, we form a rough floor. We leave a gap of about a centimeter between the floor boards and the lags.
5. We lay the subfloor from scraps of boards, leaving small gaps between them in order to prevent deformation of the floor from thermal deformation. We lay the cuttings of the boards freely on the logs, without fixing them.

The scheme of warming the wooden floor in the bath

We warm the concrete floor

We warm the concrete floor

It should be done after laying the rough screed. We act according to the following algorithm:

1. We place waterproofing on the rough screed. As such, you can use ordinary durable polyethylene. We spread the film all over the floor, with at least 5 centimeters on the walls, we can then cut off the excess. When using rolled material, we overlap in the region of 10 centimeters, fixing the joints with adhesive tape.
2. Laying insulating material. As a heater, you can use ordinary foam. To fix the foam plates, we form frames from wooden beams, fasten them to the floor with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.
3. We fill the foam plates and frames with a fixing solution, then place a reinforcing mesh on top. The thickness of the screed over the foam sheets must be at least 2 centimeters.
4. After the reinforcing screed has dried, fill in the rough leveling screed. We use a self-leveling mixture, the total thickness of the screed over the foam should reach 5-8 centimeters. Level the finish screed with a needle roller, removing air bubbles.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bath

We create a warm water floor in the bath

Water floor in the bath

A good option for floor insulation in a stationary bath will be a warm water floor. We carry out work according to the following scheme:

1. We prepare the surface for installation work. We eliminate floor defects - chips, protrusions and cracks.
2. We place heat-insulating material over the entire surface, preventing excessive energy consumption.
3. We fix the damping tape along the walls of the room, preventing the deformation of the floor during thermal expansion.
4. We place a reinforcing mesh on the floor, lay out a pipe with a liquid heat carrier, avoiding those places where it is not required to heat the floor. The maximum distance from the pipe to the wall should be 10 centimeters.
5. When laying the pipeline system, we leave the pipes some degree of freedom, ensuring their safety during thermal deformation.
6. We connect the pipeline system to the heating system using the inlet and outlet manifolds. We carefully fix the joints of the pipes using couplings and winding.
7. Checking the operation of the underfloor heating system maximum power water flow, carefully monitor possible leaks.
8. With satisfactory test results, we form a cement screed, first rough, and then self-leveling.
9. Between the screed and the top coat, we lay an absorbent layer, then we mount the top coat.

How to insulate the floor in the bath: 3 methods for insulating the floor with your own hands!

Learn more, How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands, step-by-step technology, as well as photos and videos!

How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands

The classic Russian bath has always had some special sacred meaning, was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the process of its arrangement responsibly so that being in the bath is comfortable.

It can be said for sure that without high-quality floor insulation it will not be possible to achieve such an effect.

Materials for floor insulation in the bath

One of the fundamental requirements for a bath is that it has the ability to retain heat. During construction, you will need to direct all your efforts to achieve just such a result. The surface under your feet, that is, the floor, needs especially careful warming. In this case, foam can be used to obtain high thermal insulation. It is suitable for use in rooms with high humidity.

If in ordinary living rooms almost every heat-insulating material, including mineral, is suitable for use, then in a bath it is better to dwell on heaters with a cellular structure. Solving the problem of floor insulation in the bath, they tend to different approaches. For example, the floor may be made of wood or concrete. But at the same time, the same rules for ensuring high-quality thermal insulation are still observed.

Insulation of the bath floor with the withdrawal of drains

1. The floorboards are being dismantled. So that later there are no problems with their laying in place, it is best to sign the floorboards.

2. If damaged bars are found, they are completely replaced.

3. Floor logs are built up in such a way that the rough floor has a reliable foundation.

4. The rough floor is laid. In this case, there should be a gap of 1 cm between the boards used.

5. The draft floor is mounted. It will be possible to avoid deformation of the boards during expansion if you leave gaps between them.

If the bath was built on aquifer, the insulation will need to be further protected with a vapor barrier. When groundwater is high, a simple roofing material will be appropriate to protect the insulation. It is necessary to lay a layer of insulation so that there are no gaps in it, and in part it goes onto the walls.

Insulation of the wooden floor in the bath

The selected heat-insulating material is laid in the free space between the lags. There must be a space of approximately 2 cm between the insulating layer and the top edge of the beams in order to ensure sufficient ventilation. A crate is laid, the distance between the elements of which is about 40 cm. A waterproofing membrane is placed on top of it. As a result, it separates the crate from the thermal insulation.

Floor boards are mounted on top of the formed structure. Pieces of waterproofing material remaining at the edges are trimmed evenly. In order for wood elements to be well protected from moisture, they should additionally be coated with antiseptics. It is better to do this both in the steam room and in the dressing room.

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bath

1. It is necessary to start thermal insulation work after the screed has been prepared.

2. The seized screed is covered with a waterproofing material, for example, roofing felt or polyethylene.

3. The waterproofing must be positioned so that it extends 5 cm or more onto the walls.

4. When laying rolled waterproofing, the sheets are placed with an overlap of 10 cm and are stuck with adhesive tape.

5. Foam or polystyrene boards are used to create thermal insulation.

6. The thermal insulation layer is poured with concrete in a layer of 2 cm and covered with a reinforced mesh.

7. When the mixture dries, a finishing screed is formed using a self-leveling compound. The thickness of the screed should be from 5 to 8 cm.

8. In order for the finishing screed to turn out to be completely even, it remains to walk along it with a spiked roller.

The device of a warm water floor in the bath

You can also provide comfort in the bath due to additional communications. For example, a design called a “warm floor” is suitable for this.

1. The rough surface gets rid of all defects.

2. Thermal insulation material is applied to the base base.

3. A damper tape is laid along the perimeter of the walls.

4. Reinforced mesh and pipes are laid, except for those places where there should be no heating.

5. Installation of pipes must be carried out so that they can expand freely during deformation.

6. The laid pipeline is connected to the heating. For this, winding and couplings are needed.

7. The system is checked to exclude the occurrence of leaks.

8. A rough and finishing screed is poured, on which it is then laid flooring.

By choosing the appropriate method of floor insulation in the bath, the owner will achieve excellent results. Each of the methods described is relatively simple in design.

How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands

How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands The classic Russian bath has always had some special sacred meaning, it was considered as a kind of sanctuary. Therefore, approach the process of her

How to insulate the floor in the bath

Optimizing the consumption of firewood and energy in the bath without fail includes thermal insulation of walls, ceiling and floor insulation. In baths and saunas, the floor is made of concrete or wood, so let's talk about the features of thermal protection of both options.

How to insulate the floor in the bath

Insulation of the floor in the bath - the main aspects

1. It is best to lay the heat insulator at the construction stage, otherwise you will have to dismantle the finished coating.
2. Only non-toxic and non-combustible materials are selected so that when heated, particles hazardous to health are not released and the insulation itself does not ignite.
3. Optimum insulation thickness: 90-160 mm.

Tools: hammer, construction stapler, trowel, level, drill mixer.

• boards 20-30 mm, 50 mm;
• beams 100 mm;
• cement-sand mortar;
• construction tape;
• vapor barrier or adhesive aluminum tape;
• waterproofing agent;
• reinforcing mesh;
• heat insulator;
• flooring.

For underfloor heating, the toolkit is supplemented with everything necessary for installing a heating system.

Approximate time from the start of work to commissioning is 1.5 months.

A few words about heaters

The whole complexity of the operation lies in the constantly high humidity, which, combined with high temperatures, destroys any floor covering. For some, this moment is an excuse to abandon floor insulation altogether.

Having discarded prejudices, we choose non-hygroscopic light materials:

• extruded polystyrene;
• perlite (expanded sand);
• expanded clay;
• slag;
• stone wool slabs;
• glass wool, etc.

We warm the concrete floor in the bath - instructions

It is customary to deal with the arrangement of the floor after the drainage system is completely ready, there is a roof, door blocks, windows are glazed and finishing work has been carried out.

1. Installing a concrete slab on the foundation and laying waterproofing

Water-repellent material is available both in rolls and in the form of ready-made or dry mixes, which are diluted with water or special solvents. It is optimal to use both options: first, put hydrostekloizol on a primed and cleaned surface, and then cover it with 2-3 layers of mastic (rubber-bitumen proved to be excellent).

Installation of a concrete slab on the foundation and laying waterproofing

2. Laying insulation

Perlite is distinguished by low thermal conductivity, high refractoriness and low weight. It is very important that in the process of work all windows and doors are closed - due to drafts, the material can simply scatter.

• mix perlite with water in a ratio of 2:1;
• add cement to the mixture, stir the mass until smooth;
• add 0.5 l of water and additionally pour a bucket of perlite;
• stir until no more water comes out.

The solution is poured onto a concrete slab and spread in a thin layer. Estimated drying time is 7 days. A screed is made on top of the concrete and a floor covering is mounted.

The solution is poured onto a concrete slab and spread in a thin layer.

Advice! To reduce dust in the room, perlite is sprinkled with cement and slightly moistened with water. Experts recommend placing an absorbent pad under the insulation layer (kraft paper, for example).

Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)

Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)

Advantages: polystyrene does not absorb water, does not contribute to the process of decay, does not become a breeding ground for fungi, does not emit toxic substances and is the owner of the lowest thermal conductivity.

The thickness of the plates should be 10-25 cm. As an alternative to mats, sprayed material can be taken. The list of the most popular brands includes:

• "Penoplex";
• UrsaXPSNatur-III - heat-sealed surface, corrugated on both sides;
• Ursafoam / Glascofoam - environmentally friendly yellow foam sheets;
• Natur-III-PZ - corrugated plate with pre-heat treatment;
• Roofmate - blue solid slab;
• Styrodur (strong green plates from the German company BASF).

Styrofoam insulation technology

1. Prepare the base - compact the soil, fill it with a layer of crushed stone and sand. Spread a waterproofing film on top.
2. Lay foam plates around the entire perimeter, glue with adhesive tape or fill the points of contact with mounting foam.

Lay foam plates around the entire perimeter, glue with adhesive tape or fill the contact points with mounting foam

Important! The more granules are introduced into the solution, the less durable and rigid the floor becomes.

Expanded clay - loose insulation

Expanded clay is porous and light, thanks to which its granules become an excellent basis for floor insulation. In order for the fractions to hold together well, it is better to mix granules of different sizes (from 0.16 to 0.40 mm), and you need to buy them in a larger volume than is useful for work - some of them burst during transportation.

Cement-sand mortar and filler (expanded clay) are mixed approximately in a ratio of 2:1. The exact proportion is determined by the brand of cement and the type of granules. The finished mass should resemble a thick dough. Uniform enveloping of the granules is an indicator of correct mixing.

1. Beacons-slats are installed, then an ordinary concrete screed is poured.
2. The time for complete drying and reaching maximum strength is 30 days. Layer height - 100-150 mm.

3. Installation of the "warm floor" system

Installation of the "warm floor" system

floor heating system perfectly copes with the problem of a cold floor in a bath or sauna. But with all the variety of types (cable electric floor, cable on a reinforcing mesh, infrared thermal film, water floor), not everything can be used in such a specific room.

So, the cable system needs 8 hours to fully warm up, and you can’t put anything on top of the thermal film except linoleum, carpet, laminate or parquet - this is impractical.

The most successful solution for a bath is water floor heating of a floor structure:

• pipes can be connected directly to a common boiler and thereby increase energy efficiency;
• operating costs are kept to a minimum.

4. Laying floor tiles or wooden planks

Laying floor tiles or wood planks

Warming a wooden floor: step by step

Wood is a traditional material that has been used for centuries to equip baths, it retains heat well, releases useful essential oils, and creates a cozy atmosphere. Coniferous species are often found in the dressing room - pine, fir, larch. In steam rooms, instead of them, aspen or linden are used, which have been treated with special non-toxic compounds.

Instead of a floor slab, like a concrete floor, beams are laid, on top of them - a cranial beam. A layer of insulation is laid between them. A mandatory requirement is the installation of vapor barrier layers (usually glassine) around the heat-insulating material.

For non-leaking floors, follow the following scheme for laying insulation.

The cranial bars are nailed to the lower parts of the lags, and second-rate slats, adjusted in advance to a size slightly smaller than the distance between the two beams (60 cm), are laid on the cranial bar.

The frequency of fastening the rails depends on the type of insulation. For example, 25 cm between the planks is more than enough to hold lightweight polystyrene foam.

Cranial bars are nailed to the lower parts of the lags

Important point! All boards for the subfloor must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

All boards for the subfloor must be carefully treated with an antiseptic.

A flanging is necessarily made between the beams (the width of the board is 25-50 mm), which prevents shifts, twisting and eversion of the wood, especially if it is still damp. At the edges between the flanging and the wall there is an indent, which is then filled with insulation.

A hydro- and vapor barrier membrane is laid on the first layer of the subfloor (Izospan can be used). It should go onto the wall by 20 cm. The joints of the sheets are connected with a vapor barrier tape, and the protrusions are fixed construction stapler.

A hydro and vapor barrier membrane is laid on the first layer of the subfloor

The second layer of the subfloor is mounted. If it is not necessary, you can proceed directly to the installation of insulation. For this, the material, if it is in a roll or in the form of plates, is cut in width equal to the step between wooden lags+ 10 mm. The sheets are positioned exactly in the grooves between the beams so that no gaps or gaps remain.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top. It overlaps, is attached to the logs with a construction stapler, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Another waterproofing layer is spread on top

The space remaining between the water drainage pipe and the heat insulator is filled with mounting foam.

A finishing floor (tongue) is laid, excess vapor barrier is cut off and a plinth is installed. For ventilation and drying of the boards, a 3-centimeter gap should remain between the subfloor and the finishing floor. To do this, counter rails of the appropriate size are nailed to the beam.

On a note! Some manufacturers of modern building materials offer 2-in-1 solutions: on the one hand, the manufacturer applies a foil layer to the heat insulator. This eliminates the need for additional external waterproofing - it is enough to glue the joints with adhesive aluminum tape.

OSB sheets (moisture resistant plywood) can be used as additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor.

OSB sheets can be used as additional protection against moisture penetration deep into the floor.

Giving preference to one or another type of insulation, you need to proceed from the area, features of the building, temperature regime and technical characteristics of materials. All the work described is easy to do with your own hands. The main thing is to follow the technology and safety rules!

How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands - step by step instructions!

Find out how to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction and descriptions, photo + video. The best tips for insulation and choice of materials.

Climatic comfort in the bath is achieved at a certain humidity and air temperature (50 g/m3, up to 60*C). Maintaining such comfort is achieved by using finishing building materials with a high rate of thermal insulation and vapor barrier (aluminum foil or foil on fiberglass). According to the thermal insulation properties of the material, it is possible to determine how to insulate the steam room (steam room, washing room) in the bath from the inside to ensure climate stability and comfort. Maintaining a constant climate is associated with the cost of electricity. Walls, ceilings and floors should not only have good vapor barrier, but also the room they form should have a volume that allows you to heat the air in a comfortable time.

Approximate scheme for warming a steam room

What material to choose for insulation

Mineral wool boards and mats are used for walls (ceilings). Properly executed insulation of floors (ceilings) will provide protection against condensation and accumulation of excess moisture. Soft fiberglass mats with aluminum foil will solve this problem. Wood of any breed is an excellent finishing heat-insulating material for walls, floors and ceilings in all areas of the bath. The main thing to choose quality wood. Expanded clay, expanded sand, basalt wool and polyisocyanurethane foam (thermopyre) have excellent thermal insulation.

A concrete floor on porous aggregates in the washing room serves as a kind of insulation. This design of thermal insulation has little effect on the climate and floor temperature. 30 degrees is quite comfortable for a person. Its main task is to divert water into the sewer. The use of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene) is limited to the walls and ceilings of the dressing room and changing rooms. To resolve the issue of how to insulate a steam room in a bath, it is necessary to know such material properties as thermal conductivity and vapor permeability.

The lowest thermal conductivity of the following materials is 10 (-4) kW / m x deg:

1. Still air - 0.24;
2. Expanded polystyrene - 0.3;
3. Pine - 1.4.

Thermal insulation in the steam room

The lowest water vapor permeability at 10(-6)kg/m x sec x atm:

• Aluminum foil - 0
• Steel - 0;
• Glass - 0;
• Polyfoam - 0.1:
• Pine - 2;
• Expanded clay concrete - 3;
• Mineral wool - 7.

Various ethylene films, glassine and roofing do not let steam through. Such materials are placed on top of the heat-insulating layers in the walls. Tol (glassine) smells unpleasant when heated. Expandable polystyrene is durable (up to 20 years), does not allow moisture to pass through, absorbs it well and prevents the growth of bacteria.

More durable extruded polystyrene is even less permeable to moisture

The most popular are multilayer foil insulation such as polystyrene coated on both sides with aluminum foil or foil polyethylene () up to 1.2 cm thick. At a melting temperature of about 120 degrees, it emits toxic gas. The same effect from foil cardboard and vapor barrier film prevents the accumulation of condensate at the joints of the thermal insulation of the walls with the ceiling in the steam room.

We insulate the walls, ceiling and floor in the steam room from the inside

How to insulate a steam room in a bath?

Regardless of the material of the walls, the ceiling with the floor of the steam room (brick, timber or concrete), the main insulating element is the interior trim with insulation (mineral wool + lining 1 cm). This does not mean that a timber wall is not capable of being a heater. It will take more time and heat to heat a steam room made of timber or brick to the required temperature, since wood or brick will have to be heated at the same time. Steam room optimal sizes from a bar of 15 cm will require 120 kWh. heat to heat up to 100 degrees at the ceiling. With an additional layer of 4 cm insulation and 1 cm lining, the heat demand will be 15 kW. hour. Climatic comfort in the bath almost completely depends on the steam in the steam room.

The main thermal insulation material for the steam room will be a material with thermal conductivity parameters up to 0.5 x 10 (-4) kW / m x deg

It is necessary to raise the clean floor to + 0.150 and the front door sills to + 0.350.

Floor insulation in the steam room

To ensure the required rate of thermal conductivity of the enclosing structures of the bath, it is required to reduce heat loss through the floor of the steam room. The steam room is the most heated part of the building, so it is necessary to insulate the floor in the steam room. Considering that in winter the earth freezes to a depth of 1 m, therefore, the better we insulate the floor, the less losses there will be. Under the entire steam room we drip a hole up to 60 cm deep from the level of the clean floor. Having leveled the soil in the pit, we carry out sand preparation of the base with a thickness of 5 cm. On the finished base we arrange the main layer of thermal insulation made of foam plastic with a thickness of 20 cm. Process the joints between the sheets with mounting foam or glue for foam plastic. We carry out two layers of 5 cm from cement mortar mixed with foam plastic and vermiculite (50:50).

After hardening of the base mortar, we pour concrete reinforced with a mesh of 10 x 10 cm, grade M 200 25 cm thick, with iron (on the second day of hardening, the surface is sprinkled with a very thin even layer of dry cement M500) of the upper surface with a slope to the sewer riser.

After the mortar has hardened, the base is poured with concrete

Having finished all the construction work (but not earlier than in two weeks), lay the plank floors. For non-leaking floors use floorboard with a quarter of the total slope to the sewer. Leaking floors are made of floorboards with slots. It is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing the floor boards for drying in the sun.

In existing baths, floors can be of various designs. The most common in the steam room are leaking floors on the ground or in a concrete ventilated funnel (ladder). It is necessary to decide how and with what material it is possible to insulate the leaking floor in the steam room. Do-it-yourself insulation option is to make a concrete floor made of M200 concrete 25 cm thick with thermal insulation made of foam plastic 20 cm thick. Or an expanded clay concrete floor with a masonry reinforcing mesh 100 x 100 mm. Old sand must be replaced, as it is not capable of being a subfloor. After completion of concrete work, lay a plank non-leaking floor with water drained into the sewer (as shown in the photo).

Plank floor with water drain into the sewer

For a leaking floor, iron the concrete surface with a slope to the sewer.

Thermal insulation of ceilings in the steam room

The construction of modern baths and saunas is carried out using reinforced concrete slabs floors. The thermal conductivity of the plates is not small enough for a steam room. Therefore, additional thermal insulation is required to create a comfortable temperature. Bars 10 x 10 cm are attached to the slab along the entire length in increments of 50 cm from each other on dowels. The bars should press fiberglass or vapor barrier film to the bottom surface of the slab, which prevents the accumulation of condensate at the joints of the thermal insulation of the walls with the ceiling in the steam room. The extreme bars along the perimeter of the steam room should press the fiberglass to the walls.

Basalt or kaolin wool 10 cm thick is laid between the bars. A lining 1 cm thick presses the main vapor barrier layer of foil with nails with flattened heads. In the attic, a vapor barrier film + expanded clay thermal insulation 15 cm thick is additionally arranged.

The photo shows the order of the layers of thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bath

Steam room wall insulation

The walls of the steam room are insulated similarly to the insulation of floor slabs. Walls made of timber (log) during insulation require the use of special structural elements. Before you properly insulate the walls of the bath in the steam room from the inside, you need to know what deformation occurs with the beam when the temperature and humidity change during two years of operation. To compensate for linear expansions, it is necessary to provide sliding fastening supports between the wall material and the material of the insulation structure. The better such supports work, the fewer gaps there will be in the wall of the timber. If all the walls of the bath are made of timber, then it is necessary to provide for a shrinkage of 20 cm when installing insulation and tie-in door and window openings not only for the steam room, but also for the washing room with the locker room.

Lathing option

In vertical bars 6 x 6 cm of the crate for lining, after 50 cm, vertical grooves 20 cm long are made for nails. The bearing bars of the lathing with grooves are made vertically after 50 cm. The nails are nailed through the slots in the bars to the wall from the bar, pressing the vapor barrier film, which prevents the accumulation of condensate at the joints in the steam room. Nails are located on the basis of possible shrinkage or swelling of the beam in the middle of the groove when the steam room is insulated. And for the rest of the walls above the middle of the groove. Is it necessary to complicate

insulation design? Yes need. This prevents the log from hanging on the nails of the crate after moving it in the grooves of the crate, which increases heat loss.

Nails move when they shrink and return after being swollen with moisture. The maximum travel length (20 cm) is under the ceiling. The heater is cut to size. It should fit snugly against the bars of the crate. It is not recommended to use mounting foam in the steam room. Vapor barrier sheets (penofol) are attached furniture stapler to the battens. The surface covered with foil should be directed towards the inside of the room. Close the joints with aluminum tape. To create an air gap between the vapor barrier and the lining, a counter-lattice of bars 2 cm thick is used.

Skin selection

Is it possible to trim the steam room with plastic instead of wood? Yes. But steaming will not be comfortable. For such premises, even a tree of any breed is not suitable. Preference is given to linden, alder, aspen and abash. Such a tree, when heated, maintains a temperature close to 36 degrees, does not darken, does not burn human skin. After steam treatment, a pleasant smell specific to each tree is released. The choice of wood depends only on the taste of a particular person.

Foiling in the steam room

To preserve the characteristic properties of the finish, each element is required in advance:

1. Cut to size;
2. Plane, rounding the corners of the workpieces;
3. Grind by drilling the attachment points with nails;
4. Impregnate with a solution (borax, sodium fluoride);
5. Dry at a temperature of 60 degrees to a humidity not higher than 10 degrees;
6. Saturate abundantly with a brush with a water-repellent composition (heavily diluted PF varnish).

When it comes to a good bath, first of all they mention the opportunity to take a steam bath longer and warm up well. Therefore, it is so important to maintain a comfortable temperature there, that is, floor insulation in the bath is one of the tasks that require the most careful consideration. How to insulate a bath from the inside is almost the most important issue in its construction.

There are several ways of thermal insulation, which take into account the purpose of the room, design features and type of floor. It is advisable to think over how to insulate the floor in the bath during the design process, because it will completely spoil the pleasure of washing in the bath, and in winter period and completely make the bath procedure impossible.

Materials for floor insulation in the bath

Given the special operating conditions, for baths and saunas they are somewhat different from those put forward for isolation in residential buildings. For example, due to the high humidity in the washing room, porous materials are not suitable for these purposes.

The best option is materials that have a closed cellular structure, or any of its varieties. They:

• retain their qualities in conditions of high humidity;
• able to maintain the temperature reached in the room for quite a long time.

Many craftsmen choose extruded polystyrene foam for warming the bath floor. He:

• quite rigid, due to the special structure with a predominance of small granules;
• does not absorb moisture and thus does not create conditions on the surface of this heater for a bath that promote the development of bacteria and the appearance of a fungus;
• it is lightweight, therefore it does not require strengthening the foundation;
• practical and easy to install;
• economical.

We also note that do-it-yourself floor insulation in the bath, in addition to foam materials, can also be done with the help of other heaters. Of course, a lot depends on the type of floor.

For example, glass wool or expanded clay for the floor is also suitable for a concrete floor in a bath.

How to insulate the floor in the bath with your own hands

The solution to the question of how to insulate the floor in the bath lies in how this floor is made. Immediately, we note that thermal insulation is necessary only for the so-called dry floors, in which there is a drain hole.

There are only two possible options: monolithic poured concrete or non-leaking wooden floor.

The concrete base is usually tiled, but the wooden one is finished with boards. The choice, as you can see, is small, but this is due precisely to the peculiarities of operation. The most important of these is the high temperature.

, like other synthetic materials, are not suitable as a floor covering for such premises, since toxic substances are released when heated. The same principle is followed when choosing thermal insulation whenwarming the steam room.

concrete floor insulation

Here are some different ways to insulate the filler floor in the bath.

The floors in the bath are filled with a layer of insulation

It is poured in 2 stages, arranging between them an intermediate layer of thermal insulation.

• Cooking concrete mix. Then the initial layer is poured, using expanded clay as a filler. The layer thickness should be approximately 15 cm.
• The initial layer is left to dry for 28 days. During the drying process, it is recommended to moisten the surface, after which it is sprinkled with sawdust. This is necessary to increase the strength of the base.
• Next, thermal insulation is laid on the dried concrete, for example, from glass wool or building felt.
• After one week, the next concrete layer is poured.
• It will take 28 days for the layer to dry completely. Then you can lay the flooring, say, from ceramic tiles.

Insulation on the floor slab

• A layer of thermal insulation passes over the floor slab. It is carefully waterproofed beforehand.
• A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it, which is poured with a cement-sand screed.
• A finished floor is laid on the dried concrete.

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in the bath with expanded clay

Another material that allows you to insulate the floor yourself is expanded clay. To insulate the floor with expanded clay in the washing room, the following steps are sequentially performed.

• A plastic film is laid on the subfloor made of concrete with a thick layer, leading it to the walls.
• Clarify the finish level and set beacons on it.
• Expanded clay is poured in: you can immediately from the bags, having previously made holes in them or by “jamming” using two different fractions of the material - granules and sand without splitting them.
• Expanded clay backfill is leveled and the surface layer is fastened using cement "milk".
• If necessary, install a reinforcing mesh.
• A screed 30–40 mm high is poured onto the expanded clay layer seized by cement.
• To etch air bubbles from concrete, a special roller is used.

Insulation of the floor of a concrete bath with foam plastic

• On the rough screed, waterproofing is equipped with a sufficiently thick polyethylene with a rise along the walls by 50 mm or with gluing insulation, laying the rolled material with an overlap. The overlap must be up to 100 mm. As for the joints, they are glued with tape.
• On top of the insulation, a frame is assembled from wooden frames, which is fixed to it with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.
• A cut-to-size foam is placed in the frame and fixed with a solution at least 20 mm high.
• The structure is reinforced with a mesh for reinforcing the screed and concreted with a layer of 20 mm or more.
• The floor device is completed with a 50-80 mm high pour and air bubbles are removed from the mixture using a needle roller.
• The finish can be wood or tile, you can also lay wooden gratings under your feet.

How to insulate a wooden floor in a bath

It is better to carry out thermal insulation work even at the construction stage, however, if desired, insulation can be performed in a room that is already ready for use.

Consider the technology for insulating an already laid wooden floor, which involves an additional operation to dismantle the flooring.

• Remove floorboards and skirting boards.

To simplify the restoration of coverage in the future, experts advise signing dismantled elements.

• All wooden elements are subject to inspection. Damaged areas are cut out, then replaced with the same new ones.
• Along the lower edge of the beams are built up with cranial bars. A rough floor is laid on the resulting support, keeping small gaps between the floor elements.

If the construction was carried out on water-saturated soil, care must be taken to protect the insulation from high humidity in the underground of the building. Low level groundwater involves the use of a vapor barrier membrane, high - waterproofing from roofing felt or glassine.

• A layer of vapor or waterproofing should cover the entire floor, moving to the walls by about 150 mm. Rolled insulation is overlapped, gluing the seams with tape.
• The insulation is "sewn" to the surface of the walls and logs with a stapler.
• The gaps between the lags are tightly filled with insulation, leaving no gaps or gaps. The joints are glued with adhesive tape.
• Between the layer of thermal insulation and the finishing floor, it is necessary to provide an air gap necessary for ventilation of the insulation. If the thickness of the insulation does not allow this, a crate is stuffed between the finishing floor and the thermal insulation layer in increments of approximately 400 mm.
• Thermal insulation must be protected from moisture and from above, so it is covered with any material for waterproofing. Its edges are cut off above the skirting boards.

The requirement for waterproofing the heat-insulating layer is strictly mandatory for washing, withwarming the steam room or dressing room, this stage can be skipped.

• The gap formed between the drain pipe opening and the thermal insulation is sealed. For this, liquid penoizol or polyurethane foam is suitable.

The technology of warming a wooden floor, assembled on logs on a concrete base, is practically the same. The differences relate more to the design of the bath floor. For example, logs are laid on a leveled concrete base, laying insulation materials under them.

Insulation of the floor in the bath on screw piles

Many are lost when it is necessary to carry out floor insulation in a frame bath with their own hands, which, as a rule, is built on screw piles. In such structures, a wooden floor is often laid. The technology for insulating such a floor is quite similar to that used for a wooden floor in a building with a strip foundation.

In such buildings there is no basement, and one of the possible options for organizing insulation is precisely to create it.

This is done as follows:

• Piles are connected using wooden beams or using long boards of sufficient thickness. It is very important that they are fixed strictly horizontally. The places where it is supposed to fix the external panels should be located in the same plane in order to exclude possible distortions. It is desirable to treat the wooden elements from which the inner lining is made with antiseptics.
• Wooden filing protected from moisture with a layer of waterproofing film.
• Next, it is the turn of laying the thermal insulation, which should fill the internal cavity of the resulting structure. There are no special criteria for choosing a heater. In principle, foam plastic, mineral wool, foam plastic, and other heaters can be used for these purposes. Spread the material in layers, fixing each one in turn.
• On top of the insulation equip waterproofing.
• From the outside, the basement is decorated with heat-insulating panels. Ventilation holes should be provided on them, which will ensure the free circulation of small streams of air.

In conclusion, see how to insulate the wooden floor in the bath, video instructions.

The floor in the bath warms up the slowest, and often remains cold, even when the steam room is heated hot. It is especially uncomfortable to feel this in the washing room, where you have to leave the hot steam room with bare feet. Yes, and a sharp temperature difference in the lower and upper parts of the room does not affect the body in the best way. In addition, such conditions adversely affect the microclimate in the room, contribute to the decay of wood. It is not difficult to get rid of these problems - it is enough to perform high-quality thermal insulation.

Consider how to insulate the floor in the bath in the washing room and what is needed for this.

The washing department, more than other rooms in the bath, is exposed to moisture and temperature changes, especially in frosty winters. During bathing, a person can go from the steam room to the washing room several times and vice versa, letting hot air into the room. A lot of water is used for dousing, and all of it leaves through the floor, while penetrating into the pores of the wood.

Since the bathhouse is heated only periodically, the water remaining in the floor boards or concrete base freezes and then melts again, gradually destroying the materials.

Such features of the room determine certain requirements for floors:

• they should contribute to the effective removal of water - with the help of a slope to the drain or pass moisture through themselves;
• have high strength and low absorbency;
• have resistance to decay and sudden temperature changes;
• not be slippery when wet;
• heat up and dry quickly.

To ensure the necessary conditions, even at the construction stage, it is necessary to provide for the correct arrangement of the floor structure, ventilation of the entire room and underground space, perform high-quality thermal insulation and correctly select materials.

Varieties of floors in the washroom

Three types of floors are optimally suited for the washing room - solid wood, wood leaking and concrete, tiled. The insulation of each of them has its own nuances, due to the design features.

This is the most traditional option for a bath, moreover, the warmest. natural wood has a pleasant texture, environmental safety and low thermal conductivity, which means a lot for such a room. The tree is used mainly coniferous species: it is the least susceptible to rotting and other negative impacts. The resin contained in the boards does not come out, because the air in the washing room does not heat up as much as in the steam room.

Installing a solid floor is quite laborious. There are no removable elements, and therefore the organization ventilation system there are special requirements. The base of the floor can be compacted soil or a concrete screed.

The floor system consists of logs, battens and flooring itself with mandatory waterproofing between these elements. The insulation is located between the lags, which are installed strictly in a horizontal plane, and the desired slope is created using the crate.

As a heater, you can use expanded clay, dense foam, mineral wool - the hygroscopicity of the material does not play a special role if it is reliably waterproofed on both sides. To prevent water from penetrating through the flooring, it is recommended to use tongue-and-groove boards and treat them with a water-repellent compound before using the floor.

To ventilate the underground space, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 to 100 mm is brought in from the outside.

Leaking floor

A leaky, or pouring, floor is easier to make and it will cost less. Unlike solid floors, the floorboards here do not have a slope, and water flows over the entire area through narrow gaps between the floorboards. To drain the used water, a pit is made in the base under the floor, from which a pipe is laid under a slope towards the sewer.

If the bath is used irregularly, compacted soil or a sand and gravel cushion can serve as the base of the floor, through which water will seep into the ground. Floor logs are laid on concrete posts to protect the tree from negative impacts.

With frequent use, the floor device should be more reliable, so the base is poured with a concrete screed with a slope towards the drain.

The flooring itself cannot be insulated, because under the boards there should be space for water to drain, but if desired, you can insulate the base of the floor. To do this, use concrete with a heat-insulating filler or backfill with expanded clay under the screed.

Along the perimeter of the base, only a few vents are left for ventilation, the rest of the space is closed to prevent drafts.

If the bath is built on poles or piles, insulation is carried out without adding expanded clay. To do this, a rough flooring is made of boards and mineral wool or other insulation is laid between the lags, which must be covered on both sides with a waterproofing material. Next, the crate is mounted at a slope to the drain, stainless steel sheets are fixed on top with an overlap, and then the leaking flooring is already mounted. This design requires more costs and efforts, but the floor is reliably protected from blowing and cold.

Concrete floors with cladding

This option is the most durable and reliable. The tile is great for the washroom, easy to clean, does not require special care and always looks aesthetically pleasing, and the concrete screed provides the necessary strength to the floor. The downside of these materials is that they are cold, so you can’t do without warming here.

Traditionally, the device of such a floor is performed in the following order:

• a layer of broken brick, crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 15 cm is poured onto the compacted soil;
• pour a rough screed;
• lay a layer of waterproofing and insulation;
• close the insulation with another layer of waterproofing and lay a reinforcing mesh;
• pour a finishing screed;
• perform tiling.

The organization of the drain is carried out on initial stage arrangement of the screed, and the base is poured at a slope towards the drain. Expanded clay or penoplex is most often used as a heater; mineral wool is not intended for such loads.

The choice of insulation

The choice of insulation for the washroom should be approached very responsibly, taking into account the specific operating conditions of the room. Preference should be given to materials with low hygroscopicity and resistance to decay, even if reliable waterproofing is provided. There are several types of insulation that are best suited for floors in the bath.

Material	Specifications
	This slab heat insulator is suitable for both wooden and concrete floors. It is resistant to moisture, easy to install, has an affordable price. Polystyrene plates have a very low thermal conductivity, so that the floor does not freeze through and quickly warms up when the bath is heated. The only negative is that this material is easily damaged by mice, so in the presence of rodents it is worth using a different insulation.
	This material is an improved version of polystyrene, therefore it significantly surpasses it in all respects. It is absolutely not afraid of moisture, perfectly retains heat, has a long service life and does not emit harmful substances. It is more expensive than polystyrene, but the cost of the material is fully compensated by its reliability and durability.
	This material is used for the insulation of wooden structures. For greater effect, it is recommended to use cotton wool with a foil coating. Since cotton wool tends to absorb water, special attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the insulating layer. It must be completely sealed, otherwise the material will lose its heat-insulating properties.
	Loose insulation, often used as a filler for concrete screed. It has high thermal insulation properties and low weight, which allows you to effectively insulate the concrete floor without heavy loads on the base. Not subject to rotting, not damaged by rodents, has a long service life
	The most environmentally friendly insulation. It is produced in the form of porous granules of various fractions, suitable for both concrete and wooden floors. Needs good waterproofing. This insulation does not burn, does not rot, is not damaged by mice. When arranging a floor with a slope, it is filled with guides

Prices for foam insulation

foam insulation