What kind of varnish to cover the tree after drying oil, but is it worth it? - views, overview. Drying oil for wood - natural wood protection Covering a wooden house over old drying oil

16.06.2019

When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer, or for other reasons. But those of you who have come across this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until this very drying is not complete.

Overheated and oxidized in a special way vegetable oil acts as the basis for the olive. At the same time, various desiccants, solvents and other components characteristic of paints and varnishes are added there.

The main task of drying oil is to form a protective layer on the surface of the wood to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, fungus, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to lie more evenly and efficiently, as well as reducing the consumption of this very paint.

Do not forget that the wood covered with drying oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork is also used for decorative purposes.

Drying oil types

The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:

natural;
Semi-natural;
Synthetic;
Combined.

Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic counterparts, is not flammable, since it contains almost no solvents. At the same time, its drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries in linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point

Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.

Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil, followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for the treatment of household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. The scope of its application includes the primer of concrete, metal, dilution of paint and varnish products, the preparation of plaster and mastic. Drying time usually over 24 hours

The combined drying oil dries for about a day. Obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in the manufacture of paint.

How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard

Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries in the process of oxidation, that is, by binding to oxygen.

Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In fact, you almost always have to wait, and there are not many ways to speed up the process. One of them is the use of a heat gun. The thing is that the process of drying drying oil is accelerated at elevated temperatures and low humidity. And the fan heater just does the job very well. By the way, it was previously practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.

Another way is to use a desiccant. Red lead is ideal. Read the instructions carefully before use.

How to know that drying oil is completely dry, and what to do if it does not dry

The main sign that this material is completely dry is the absence of stickiness. However, in some cases, the drying of drying oil does not occur even in 10 days. Most likely due to marriage. It is not worth waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply absorbed into the wood, a planer may be required.

Everyone sooner or later faces the need for repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update the interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint interior wooden surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.

A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive.

Many are not serious about solving this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and start working without preliminary surface preparation, which becomes the main mistake.

If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-made finishing operations is attention to detail, which should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can waste not only time, effort and money, but also completely spoil expendable materials and the wooden object itself.

Therefore, it is important to consider the nuances. For example, what if wooden surface previously been covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition causes difficulties more than others, therefore, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint drying oil previously applied to the surface of a wooden material?

To answer this question, one should get a little closer acquainted with such building archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use today causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?

Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of residues of vegetable oil (linseed, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (by overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and desiccants in the composition make it related to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricant or coloring raw material.

Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent

During the Soviet years Oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only accessible means surface painting. It was applied literally to everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in the bathroom or worn-out linoleum, it is highly likely that you will stumble upon a pro-oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could do without it.

With the advent of new paint and varnish mixtures on the shelves of construction stores, drying oil was used only for puttying purposes, in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to the viscous composition, drying oil has good filling capacity, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office premises (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, concrete surfaces are primed with it and wood is renewed in outdoor work.

With all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant drawbacks, which are well known to those who have at least once tried to apply another paint and varnish substance to it without pre-treatment. Among the obvious disadvantages should be noted:

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other means of coloring, therefore even the most expensive paint after a short time"fall off";
a strong smell, which neither in the process nor after it never completely disappears and a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere is created indoors;
slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (natural is the fastest, and synthetic is longer);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
inconvenience of use, since it is necessary to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), warming up the mixture in advance;
fragility.

It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative points for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. good coverage only partially possesses them.

It would seem that it is simply impossible to repaint the surface soaked with drying oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.

When working with oiled material, it is of paramount importance to choose the right house paint. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: a freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.

However, there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:

Oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
water-dispersion paint;
pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
oil-based liquid wallpaper;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays down perfectly on top of it

Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surfaces. In no case should you try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our tricky oil-based impregnation will simply “repel” a layer of paint.

A few more new devices are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
airbrush, or spray gun;
paint mixing tray;
a bucket of soapy water;
clean rags;
hard-bristled brush or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
tape machine or manual cycle;
disinfectant composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with washing solution;
dry rag;
pin or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glued on surfaces pre-treated with drying oil

Everything you need is at hand. Nothing stops you from getting started.

The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has already been mentioned more than once. Lower preparatory stages can only be a short-sighted amateur who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.

So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:

Clean surfaces from mechanical pollution: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy spots, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
Sanded or, if possible, chipped upper layer(the latter is only for wood) using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper, or even better a scraper belt machine. Wash with water. Let dry.
Repair all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sanded fine sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
Apply a disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let dry.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout the entire period of operation.

Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been minimized as much as possible, it's time to start the procedure for painting or pasting the surface.

Painting work is carried out in several stages at a temperature of -30 to +40 degrees and a relative humidity of no higher than 80%:

To begin with, a stripe layer is painted with a brush hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges.
The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, directed from left to right or from the wall farthest from the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. Waiting for complete drying time.
Metal surfaces are painted in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wood - 1-2.
Rinse dry surface hot water(without adding soda or detergent) to avoid divorce. Re-wipe before use.
You can get rid of the persistent smell of some types of paints (say, oil paints) by placing 2-3 cans of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the stained area or in the room.

It is very important to wait for the complete drying of each previous coat of paint before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least a day.

Check if the surface is dry or not traditional method- put your finger on the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.

Transforming a polished surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials in just a few days, you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look, which will please its diligent owner for a long time to come.

A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive.

Many are not serious about solving this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and start working without preliminary surface preparation, which becomes the main mistake.

Therefore, it is important to consider the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface has already been covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition causes difficulties more than others, therefore, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint drying oil previously applied to the surface of a wooden material?

Features and disadvantages of drying oil

Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent

In the Soviet years, oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only available means of painting surfaces. It was applied literally to everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. When removing worn-out wallpaper layer by layer, old bathroom tiles or worn linoleum, you can most likely stumble upon a pro-oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could do without it.

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other means of painting, so even the most expensive paint will “peel off” after a short time;
a strong smell, which neither in the process nor after it never completely disappears and a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere is created indoors;
slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (the fastest is natural, and longer is synthetic);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
inconvenience of use, since it is necessary to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), warming up the mixture in advance;
fragility.

It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative points are for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. A good coating has them only in part.

Choice of paint and tools

When working with oiled material, the choice of the correct paint is of paramount importance. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: a freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.

Nevertheless, there are several types of colorants and finishing materials that I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:

Oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
oil-based liquid wallpaper;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays down perfectly on top of it

Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surfaces. You should not try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our tricky oil-based impregnation will simply “repel” a layer of paint. For the use of water-dispersion and water-based paint the surface must be washed and cleaned well, removing the film from drying oil. In this case, 2-3 layers of water-based paint will cover the surface, but, unlike other compositions, will not saturate it.

A few more new devices are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
airbrush, or spray gun;
paint mixing tray;
a bucket of soapy water;
clean rags;
hard-bristled brush or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
tape machine or manual cycle;
disinfectant composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with washing solution;
dry rag;
pin or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glued on surfaces pre-treated with drying oil

Everything you need is at hand. Nothing stops you from getting started.

Surface preparation

The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has already been mentioned more than once. Only a short-sighted amateur who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials can omit the preparatory stages. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.

So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:

Clean surfaces from mechanical impurities: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, grease stains, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
Sand or, if possible, scrape the top layer (the latter - only for wood), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, even better, a scraper belt machine. Wash with water. Let dry.
Repair all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sand with fine-grained sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
Apply a disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let dry.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout the entire period of operation.

After surface treatment, the painting process can only bring a good mood

Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been minimized as much as possible, it's time to start the procedure for painting or pasting the surface.

Painting work is carried out in several stages at a temperature of -30 to +40 degrees and a relative humidity of no higher than 80%:

To begin with, hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges are painted with a stripe layer with a brush.
The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, directed from left to right or from the wall farthest from the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. Waiting for complete drying time.
Metal surfaces are painted in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wood - 1-2.
Rinse the dried surface with hot water (no baking soda or detergent added) to remove streaks. Re-wipe before use.
(let's say, oil) you can by placing 2-3 cans of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the stained area or in the room.

Check whether the surface has dried or not, perhaps by the traditional method - by placing a finger on the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.

Transforming a polished surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection of the necessary tools and finishing materials, in just a few days you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look that will please its diligent owner for a long time to come.

If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is already quite strange, there’s nothing to talk about, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires obligatory impregnation with drying oil, otherwise, over time, the pigments turn white, lose color and the paint layer quickly collapses.

Drying oil recipe: liquid desiccant (cobalt or lead) is added to slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time approximately 4 hours.

Flaxseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - it is oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without desiccants, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer, polymerized linseed oil is prepared at elevated pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously in the entire layer, but is more prone to yellowing and darkening. That's all the fundamental difference, so that raw or boiled drying oil is essentially the same thing, so if, when cooking, in addition to the desiccant, some scraps are added to it (I would like to know which ones and how much) you get a good oil varnish.

With regard to the drying time, this is largely determined by the base - board and gesso, for example, I have lime dry boards, many years of aging, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, I have at least 12 hours, and even then after that the drying oil can dry out, so I have to dooliferate.

It's better for our business oxidized oil, because it is very important that both the paint layer and the gesso and the board are soaked as thoroughly as possible with drying oil, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds together and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.

Since oil varnishes darken in dark, damp rooms, and alcohol varnishes become cloudy, as an alternative, you can use "liquid wax" the world-famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. "Liquid wax" is used to cover the plaster type isk. stone, adheres well to walls subject to condensation, water-resistant, appearance similar to milk, after drying it is absolutely transparent.

The appearance of stains after drying due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, and therefore the gesso shines through where there is little of this binder, it looks especially bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, one should try to write tempera with the same texture as possible. On a personal letter, greasy yolk stains are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying in the light, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of the smelting, it is necessary to evaluate the filling of the tempera with a binder in the light, and if it is lacking, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully “drink” the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.

If you write with a dense layer of paint, the risk of stains during drying is minimal. If the task is to write something in a thin layer, taking into account the gap of the gesso, it is better to make a tempera with an acceptable lack of binder and, after completing all the work on the site, additionally water the paint layer with a binder.

Well, for those who don't know yet... there is such a control test for the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: on the dried surface, the tempera is carried out with a wet brush, if the trace is darker than the coller, then there is little binder, it is necessary to add, if, on the contrary, the trace is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.

Is it possible to apply drying oil on varnish, how to choose the appropriate materials for surface treatment? Used to create a protective coating different types varnishes and varnishes. Their application takes into account the properties and characteristics of materials, the possibility of their combination.

Varnishes and drying oil belong to the group of film-forming substances used in the form of solutions. The final appearance of the treated surface depends on their type and composition. Lacquering allows you to protect or emphasize the structure of the painted surface.

After drying, the coatings form a transparent, durable film; varnishes are often used to apply the base layer.

The range of varnish compositions is represented by a variety of types, methods of application and properties. Among them are distinguished:

bituminous varnishes, which are made from bitumen of special grades, form a black film when dried, are resistant to reagents;
oil formulations are solutions vegetable oils with synthetic or natural resins, when dried, they give a transparent yellow film;
alcohol have a high drying rate, are produced by dissolving natural resins in alcohol;
alkyd solutions - materials based on synthetic resins, are water resistant;
alkyd-carbamide varnishes are used with hardeners; when dried, they form a hard coating;
cellulose nitrate materials are used to apply a protective coating to wood products;
polyester;
polyurethane coating materials;
epoxy and oil-polymer varnishes.

Drying oil for wood is different in composition, which determines the peculiarities of its use for impregnation and primer. Natural drying oil is made from plant components of flax, hemp, sunflower with the use of special additives.

The use as a primer helps to emphasize the beauty of the texture, the wood shows its pattern. Solvents are added to its composition, which increase the viscosity, and to improve the quality of the oil, they are oxidized and heated at high temperatures. They contain only 5% of a special desiccant additive that accelerates drying. Oksol consists of an oil component, a solvent and a desiccant. Thanks to this connection, it dries faster, and its cost is low.

Composite synthetic material is produced from by-products of the oil refining industry. This type of product is not universal due to poor quality. It is not recommended for indoor applications.

The highest quality compositions based on alkyd resins have. They are used for exterior and interior decoration.

Coating Compatibility

As a finishing mixture, drying oil can be used as a component for the manufacture of putty, for painting metal surfaces. Disadvantages of this mixture:

low adhesion to other surface coating agents;
strong persistent odor;
special working conditions (presence of high temperature in the room);
fragility;
long drying time.

In case of repair work it must be borne in mind that if varnish is applied to a fresh layer of oiled surface, bubbles will form as it dries.

If you treat the tree with drying oil, you can create not only a protective layer, but also a primer under the main coating with a tinted or transparent varnish.

The tool is used as a primer and impregnation of the material before painting.

Drying oil is alternative means in relation to others used for wood impregnation. It is worth remembering that not all types can be used for work in residential premises. Guaranteed Protection from the influence of external factors is achieved when it is combined with other means.

Some types of paints and NC-132 brand nitrocellulose varnish do not conflict with drying oil. When you try to apply a coating of other materials to the drying oil, repulsion will occur.

using tools to clean the surface of contamination;
wash with soapy water;
sanding with sandpaper;
repair cracks and sand the surface;
apply primer.

A layer of varnish can be applied to drying oil only after final drying. In order for the coating to be stable, it is necessary to use glyptal, pentafle, oil varnishes. Apply with a brush, spray or roller. The choice of materials depends on the type of work performed. To cover the surface with a protective layer, you need to choose the right composition for application.

A careful study of the compatibility of funds will help you choose the best painting option. In the case of using several types of materials, it is better to choose them from one manufacturer. This will avoid conflict when working with them.

Good for the floor parquet varnish, which has the desired fluidity on the tree, and when dried, forms a transparent film. You can dilute it with white spirit for even distribution over the surface. Drying oil consists of components of vegetable and synthetic fats. Applying it to a varnished surface will not give results.