Lay out a brick fireplace in the house. How to build a brick fireplace

27.06.2020

modern fireplace

For centuries, fireplaces have been used as a source of heat. Today they are used as a decorative item of interiors. Majority modern models can act as an additional heating device in country house or cottage.

A do-it-yourself fireplace device, made in accordance with all the rules of construction, can significantly reduce fuel costs and provide efficient heating premises.

Examples of incorrect fireplace arrangements can be easily found in the history of mankind, for example, knight's castles, which were always cold, despite the numerous fireplaces in the hall.

To avoid mistakes when building a fireplace with your own hands, you need to study all the subtleties of this matter.

Varieties of fireplaces

Unlike medieval predecessors, modern fireplaces are divided into several categories. The criteria for their difference are the following parameters:

Location

built-in structures.
wall-mounted.
island.

The materials used are brick, granite, marble or natural stone. For island structures, cast iron, metal or glass are mainly used.

open type.
Closed.

The first option is characterized by the use of an open firebox in a classic design, the second option uses the closing of the firebox with doors.

Heat dissipation method

This indicator is determined by the number of sides that can give off heat to the room.

Fuel used

Wood burning fireplaces.
Gas.
Electrical.
Biofireplace.

Types of fireplaces

Design principle

The device of a fireplace consists of two main parts - a fire chamber and a flue. In addition, there are other components:

heating device,
smoke box,
valve,
ash pan,
grate,
lining,
forced convection system,
fire cutter,
protective doors.

As for the outdoor device, it consists of a cladding and a portal. The portal performs decorative functions, supporting one or another style of the room.

Chimney and draft

Chimneys can be divided into several types based on their design.

Direct view. Because of its simplicity and versatility, it is used in most cases. Its installation is possible only during the construction of the main building, otherwise it will be necessary to break the floors to install a direct chimney.
Tilt view. This type of chimney is used in a country house that has undergone reconstruction, or indoors when building a fireplace. The design of the chimney allows you to connect to already installed chimney channels or wells for ventilation or exhaust hoods.

To achieve effective traction, it is very important to maintain the height of the structure. Unlike the chimneys of conventional stoves, its height must be greater. In addition, the hydraulic resistance in the structure will need to be reduced to a minimum.

This is achieved by choosing correct design. by the most good option use is considered round pipe, it does not contain corners and has smooth surface. These qualities help to avoid the formation of soot, which can delay the movement of smoke. Therefore, the chimney may be square and made of brick, but the chimney is made of a pipe.

Fireplace and chimney. Scheme 1

In addition to the height of the chimney, it is necessary to take into account the cross-section of the pipe, it must be proportional to the size of the furnace hole. The optimal ratio is considered to be 1:10 or 1:12.

To reduce heat loss, you need to take care of the materials used and their thickness. Commonly used refractory or hollow brick. Based on the location of the chimney, the type of masonry is selected, for example, for a structure near outer wall, perform laying in 1 brick, and, for devices located inside the ceilings, use the construction method in ½ brick.

The construction of the chimney must be accompanied by the tightness of the seams, inattention to this process can lead to air entering through the cracks of the structure, resulting in a decrease in the draft of the fireplace.

In addition to these factors, the head of the pipe can affect the reduction in thrust. To avoid this, it is necessary to acquire the most simple designs, without additional design elements. In addition, when installing it, it is necessary to take into account the width of its walls above the roof level, the optimal width should be at least 1 brick.

To protect the chimney from influence climatic conditions use a special nozzle, which is installed above the head.

Firebox and its device

To improve the heat-reflecting capability of a fireplace in a private house, the walls of the firebox are inclined at an angle.

This can be achieved by turning the side partitions outward, and the position of the rear wall tilted forward. The formation of the angle of inclination can be done from 1/3 of the furnace height.

A smoke chamber is installed on top of the furnace opening. To prevent soot and sparks from entering the furnace passage into the room, a special “pass” is installed between the furnace opening and the smoke chamber. In addition, its functions include the protection of the premises from smoke.

The start of construction begins with the calculation of materials. The easiest way is to build a fireplace with your own hands, using bricks. To calculate the size of the furnace section, several factors must be taken into account:

Brick sizes.
Seam thickness.
Dimensions of the fireplace based on the estimated area.

After that, an ordinal drawing (ordering) of all steps is developed. For the convenience of forming the order, a regular sheet of a notebook in a cage is used, since in the process of work, laying of 1, ½ and ¾ bricks is used.

The laying of the hearth begins with the basement. To improve the external data, this row is laid out by placing a brick on the edge, and, already from the next row, the laying is continued with a flat brick.

Laying and ordering the fireplace

Additional elements

In addition to the listed details, other details are also involved in the design of the fireplace:

Drawings and diagrams

Building fireplaces with your own hands will require a drawing or a workflow. Schemes are performed in four angles:

side view,
above,
straight,
in a cut.

Having a drawing simplifies not only the process of making a chimney with your own hands, but also counting the number necessary materials goes much faster.

When preparing a drawing, it is necessary to take into account the following details:

Calculation of the foundation and the possibility of its combination with the finished structure of the house.
Scheme of openings in floors and roof structure.
Calculation of materials for construction and decoration.
Development of the appearance of the fireplace.
Calculation of heat transfer.
Ease of use design and explication.
Fire resistance.
Safety of use.

Professionals always draw up a drawing with an order, where the location of each brick is indicated. When building furnace equipment with your own hands, a drawing or diagrams must be carried out under the supervision of an experienced stove-maker, this will greatly simplify the process and help avoid design errors.

Location selection

To build a fireplace with your own hands, you will need to decide where this design will be located. Based on this, fireplaces are divided into four types:

Wall.
Corner.
Embedded.
Stand alone.

Usually a place for a fireplace is selected near the main wall of the house, away from drafts, stairs and corridors. Next to it, it is necessary to provide a recreation area, which you can do with your own hands to your taste and based on your capabilities.

The base under the fireplace must be made of fire-resistant material.

Video: DIY fireplace stove

The services of a master - a specialist in chimney masonry are not cheap. The price of building one structure from scratch starts from 350 USD. e. (20 thousand rubles), reaching 1500 c.u. e. depending on the complexity and scope of work. Imagine how much money you can save if you fold a brick fireplace with your own hands. But the task is not an easy one - you need to learn the basics of furnace business, choose the appropriate design for the hearth, build and melt it correctly. We will try to give maximum information on all of the above issues, we will provide drawings of fireplaces for self-production.

The device of a classic brick fireplace

Strictly speaking, open hearths are not very suitable for heating private cottages due to their low efficiency, which is only 20-30%. While the fire is burning in the firebox, heat is distributed throughout the room by means of infrared radiation. After attenuation, the intensity of heating decreases and stops after 2-3 hours, when the brickwork has cooled down.

An important point. It is unrealistic to build even a small wood-burning stove in an apartment of a multi-storey building - there is nowhere to lead the chimney, and the ceiling is not designed for such a weight. Reference: the mass of the mini-fireplace, whose project is presented below, is more than 700 kg, size - 0.5 x 1 m (load area - 0.5 m²).

Despite the low heat output, fireplaces remain attractive to homeowners because they create a unique environment. home comfort. The device of a classic English hearth is shown in the diagram and includes the following elements:

underground part - foundation;
base of 2-3 rows of bricks;
a hearth with a protruding pre-furnace platform;
portal - brick frame of an open firebox;
smoke collector - a channel narrowing upwards in the form of an umbrella above the combustion chamber;
the chimney tooth at the beginning of the smoke collector serves for better heat removal from hot gases;
chimney pipe leading to the roof;
traction force is regulated by a valve.

Scheme of the device of a classic open hearth

If the construction budget allows, then the outside walls are tiled, as is done above in the photo. It is not necessary to decorate the walls of the structure - the correct brickwork looks quite neat.

The size and location of the hearth in the room

When choosing the design and drawings of the fireplace, pay attention to the dimensions of the portal, fuel chamber and chimney. The indicated dimensions are selected according to the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room and are interconnected by the following ratios:

cross-sectional area of the chimney pipe - 1/9 of the quadrature of the portal;
the depth of the firebox is 1.5-2 times less than the height of the portal opening;
the area of the open opening is 1/50 of the quadrature of the room.

If you make a fireplace in a small room big size, the chimney draft will not have enough air flow. The hearth will smoke into the room or “suck out” air from neighboring rooms, and along with heat. It is allowed to build a small structure in a spacious room, but the heating will be minimal - the fireplace will serve as a decoration for the living room and play the role of a barbecue.

For the convenience of determining the size of the firebox and the chimney, depending on the quadrature of the room, there is a ready-made table:

According to the shape, fireplaces are divided into 2 types - wall and corner. In the publication, we provide a description of the first variety - it is relatively simple. To build home hearths of the angular type, you need to gain experience in the furnace business. Having decided on the dimensions of the heater, allocate a place for installation, taking into account our recommendations:

Place the fireplace in the center of the room divider. If a private house is in the stage of redevelopment, repair or construction, the back wall can be taken out to the next room by making an opening inside the partition.
It is not advisable to make a fireplace near the outer wall - part of the heat will go outside.
Think about convenience - do not place the structure near interior doors and don't push furniture around.
Carefully study the design of ceilings and truss system, so that the chimney pipe does not fall into the supporting beam or onto the edge reinforced concrete slab overlap. The minimum distance from the flue wall to the rafters is 10 cm (taking into account the fire-prevention furnace cutting).

When choosing a platform for a fireplace, do not forget about the foundation. In a residential area, you will have to disassemble the floors, dismantle the screed and dig a pit without affecting existing foundation building. Remember if brownies have been laid in the chosen place network engineering- Sewerage, plumbing or underfloor heating. The basement under the room is also a problem, not every floor can withstand the weight of the masonry.

Construction technology

The procedure for preparing and laying a fireplace with your own hands is proposed to be divided into stages:

Selection and purchase of building materials.
Preparing a set of tools.
Foundation device.
Brickwork of the furnace body and chimney.
Drying and primary kindling.

Let us consider in detail each item on the list, then we will present specific projects and orders available for execution by novice stove-makers.

An interesting option fireplace stoves, where 2 fireboxes are combined - open and closed

Choosing a brick and mortar

Choose an oven brick taking into account the following requirements:

for the main masonry, take a solid ceramic (red) brick of a standard size of 250 x 120 x 65 mm, hollow marks are not suitable;
the walls of the firebox are laid out from fireclay (refractory) stones of the Sh, ShA or ShB grades;
instead of refractory, it is allowed to use solid clay brick, carefully selected for quality - without cracks, chips and other defects;
the body of the fireplace may be laid out of used ceramic bricks, provided that the stones have retained their strength, have not been soaked with dampness and have not cracked;
if the budget allows, buy a figured brick with rounded edges, shown in the photo.

Note. The brand of fireclay stones is precisely indicated in the design of the hearth. Specify the number and shape of hewn bricks in accordance with the schemes - orders.

The easiest way to make a quality masonry mortar is to buy a ready-made clay-sand mixture in the store, designed for stoves and fireplaces. A similar product is commercially available for refractory masonry - fireclay and mortar.

If you are on the path of total savings, make the solution yourself:

The solution is considered suitable for work if the “sausage” rolled from it with a diameter of 10-15 mm does not crack and does not crumble when wound on a wooden stick Ø4-5 cm.

Reference. Ready-made clay-sand mortar is stored indefinitely. If the composition has time to dry before use, it is enough to dilute it again with water.

Methods for checking the solution by squeezing, tearing and winding the bundles on a round handle

Pure clay mortar for laying the foundation and the chimney is not suitable - you need to add lime or cement. Therefore, to build a fireplace, prepare additional building materials:

Portland cement M400;
sand;
roofing material for waterproofing;
felt (can be used), roofing iron;
broken stones of any origin;
boards or boards for formwork;
polyethylene film (used is allowed, but without holes);
steel knitting wire;
asbestos cord.

Advice. Instead of felt, basalt cardboard has been successfully used.

Ready-made masonry mixtures for stoves and fireplaces

Of course, the construction of a fireplace will require stove fittings - doors, valves, and so on. The exact number and dimensions are listed in the project. To form the vault of the portal, you will also need metal corners or armature. In order not to plaster and decorate the finished hearth, purchase a special fire-resistant enamel.

We prepare the tools of the stove-maker

The complete set of tools used by kiln masters is shown in the picture. But since the average homeowner does not have all the fixtures depicted, we will give a list of tools that you cannot do without when building a fireplace:

pick;
hammer (preferably rubber);
construction level, tape measure;
square, cord and plumb;
the brush is wide;
Master OK;
pliers;
ruler and scriber - a pointed metal rod.

A beginner who is not trained in the techniques of hewing and splitting bricks will make a lot of marriage and ruin a lot of material until he gets used to the job. Hence the advice: cut stones with a grinder equipped with a circle on concrete. To reduce dust, go outside or to another room.

In addition to the listed devices, you will need a bucket and a thick cloth for wiping brick walls. A small spatula or a metal scoop with a broom is also useful.

Laying a solid foundation

How to make the base of the fireplace correctly is described in detail in another step-by-step. Briefly outline the stages of work:

Digging and excavation of soil from a pit, whose dimensions are 10 cm wider than the dimensions of the future hearth. The depth depends on the location of stable soil layers, but not less than 0.5 m.
Backfilling the pit with rubble stone, strengthening with liquid clay or lime mortar.
Laying 2 waterproofing layers of roofing material.
Installation of formwork, pouring a reinforced concrete slab with a thickness of 15-20 cm.
After 4 weeks (complete solidification of concrete) - laying felt soaked in liquid clay and erecting 2 continuous rows of ceramic bricks.

Note. Instead of a reinforced concrete slab, cement mortar brickwork can be used, ending at the level of the finished floor. In this case, the rubble foundation can be loaded much earlier - after 7-10 days.

The base of the fireplace to be laid is a completely independent structure, not connected with the foundation of a private house. The minimum distance between them is 50 mm, but it is better to keep 10 cm. Treat the accessible side surfaces of the foundation with bitumen for waterproofing.

A plastic film is laid over the backfill and formwork so that liquid concrete does not lose cement milk. The felt soaked with clay is placed on the finished slab, as shown in the diagram. The first two rows of stones are considered zero and are not reflected in the order of the fireplace, their task is to protect the felt pad from high temperature. For more information about the technology of laying a reinforced concrete foundation, see the video:

Instructions for chimney masonry

Before laying out the fireplace, select the best brick for the firebox, clean the used stones from soot, dirt and adhering old mortar. When ready, proceed to an important stage - laying the first row. Step by step technology looks like this:

Retreating 5 cm from the edge of the foundation, collect the first tier of bricks dry. First install the outer beautiful stones, then fill the middle.
Using a square and a wooden plank, align the bricks along the line at 90° angles.
Measure the length of the diagonals with a tape measure. The maximum allowable discrepancy is 5 mm.
Lay all the stones on the mortar, controlling the horizontal level.

The next rows are laid out in the same way - the formation of the model on a dry, fitting and trimming of stones, setting on the solution. The verticality and horizontality of the masonry is constantly monitored using a plumb line and building level.

Advice for newbies. There is a simple technique that allows you to ensure the verticality of the fireplace masonry. After forming the first two rows, project the corner points on the ceiling with a plumb line and drive nails or dowels there. Tie cords with weights to them, which will serve as markers for the dimensions of the fireplace. Instead of twine, you can use vertically installed iron corners, then it will become much easier to level the masonry.

When erecting the walls of the fireplace, be sure to observe the following rules:

Before laying, immerse the red brick in a bucket of water for 2-3 minutes - air bubbles will come out of the pores. Refractory stones do not need to be soaked, just rinsed from dust.
The maximum joint thickness is 5 mm. Press the brick against adjacent stones, while leveling and removing excess mortar on the sides with a trowel.
The walls of the gas channels must be smooth. Turn the bricks with a flat edge inside the flue, and every 3-4 rows wipe the masonry from the inside with a wet rag.
Before laying a smoke box with a chimney tooth and sloping walls, where you need to do a lot of trimming, lay out the element model dry. This will allow you to clearly fit the sawn bricks.
Fireclay and ceramic masonry, having different odds thermal expansion, do not tie together. Provide a gap of 3-5 mm where sheets of basalt cardboard are inserted.
Before installation, wrap fireplace doors with asbestos cord at the points of contact with the wall. Fix the elements with a knitting wire, aligning them vertically and horizontally.
Put the valve on the clay mortar - you need to open the valve and apply it to the frame.

The overlap is made of steel corners supported on the walls of the portal. Top row stones are laid on rolled metal without mortar, only the side seams are filled. Semicircular arched vaults are formed using special patterns of wood - circled, shown in the photo.

The circle can be made from plywood or wood of any quality, but the shape of the support must be clearly calibrated.

When installing a chimney, change the recipe for preparing the solution - add cement instead of clay. The ratio of the binder to sand is 1: 4, the density is medium. In the wooden floor of the house, cutting is performed, providing a fire indent of 38 cm from the smoke channel to combustible structures (see the diagram).

A thickening of the pipe is made above the roof surface - an otter that closes the joint roofing with brickwork. At the end, a head is formed closed type, protecting from rainfall inside the fireplace.

For stoves and fireplaces, fire rules are the same - the distance between the smoke channel and wooden floor must be at least 380 mm (one and a half bricks)

Drying and first kindling

Sand-clay mortar does not harden, but dries. The drying process takes 10-14 days, during which monitoring is carried out. Small cracks that occur in the masonry of the fireplace are sealed with the same clay mortar. At the end of the specified period, make a trial kindling:

Having opened the valve, kindle a small armful of brushwood and wood chips on the hearth.
Gradually add small firewood, maintaining a small fire. This will allow the solution to dry completely.
If after 3-4 hours no cracks have formed in the body of the fireplace, you can increase the portion of firewood. Take your time and first make sure that the walls of the hearth have warmed up.

Advice. Because of air lock there may be no draft in the chimney initially. The pipe must be heated with a torch or a small fire kindled on a view.

Techniques for performing fireplace masonry, see the following video:

Project No. 1 - a compact mini-fireplace

This hearth is suitable for heating a room of 16-20 m² in a country house or a small country house. Another option for using the design is as an outdoor barbecue built in a garden gazebo. A feature of the fireplace is lateral convection channels that heat the air in the room. The size of the building is 102 x 51 cm.

To lay out a mini-fireplace, you will need the following materials:

full-bodied ceramic brick- 240 pcs. (chimney not included)
revision door 24 x 14 cm - 1 pc.;
cast-iron grates 18 x 14 cm;
valve 25 x 14 cm;
stainless steel sheet 1 mm thick, 500 x 1000 mm in size;
a sheet of black or galvanized metal, laid in front of the firebox, dimensions - 70 x 50 cm.

Sectional drawing of a mini-fireplace. Outlets of convection channels are provided on the side walls

Note. The stainless steel sheet serves as the back screen of the firebox. It is allowed not to put it, but then it will be necessary to form an inclined wall of cut bricks.

The mini-fireplace shown in the drawing is laid out in this order:

The master will tell you in detail the algorithm for laying a mini-fireplace in his video:

Project No. 2 - a simple heating fireplace

The dimensions of this building are 112 x 65 cm, the height is 2020 mm. Inner size portal - 52 x 49 cm. Accelerated heating of the room is provided due to the convective air channel. The building kit looks like this:

clay solid brick - 345 pcs.;
valve used in the chimney - 250 x 130 mm;
2 steel equal-shelf corners 45 mm wide, 70 cm long;
metal sheet 500 x 700 mm.

The peculiarity of laying the fireplace shown in the diagram is staging a large number bricks at the base on edge. A narrow long channel is arranged above, where the heated air of the room moves. Let's move on to the construction algorithm:

The method of trial kindling the fireplace is demonstrated in the last video:

Conclusion

We warn you that making a fireplace with your own hands from brick is a difficult task for a beginner. Aspects of construction, understandable in theory, turn into a problem in practice. Hence the recommendation: practice on simpler objects - make an outdoor grill, barbecue or barbecue. Hold brick and mortar in your hands, feel the nuances of masonry. It would be useful to consult a master stove-setter.

Not so long ago, I set myself the task of finding proven orders and drawings of brick fireplaces on the Internet, despite all the openness of the information, this was not easy to do. In most cases, the schemes were incomplete, poorly readable, and finally completely non-working, contrary to the principles of the fireplace. At the same time, almost nowhere was it indicated for which rooms the fireplace is suitable, what height of the pipe is required for it, the cost of materials and the requirements for the project executor. In the course of a thorough study of the forums, my experience and information from familiar stove-makers, I tried to collect on the site the 10 most proven ordinal schemes of brick fireplaces in the work. Direct links to articles from detailed description drawings and the process of work are located below in the order of rating of the stove community:

Rules for reading ordinal schemes and symbols.

Despite the fact that most of the schemes and orders are intuitive even for people who have not previously dealt with stove masonry, I think it would not be superfluous to indicate conventions used in the drawings.

Remember that most furnace fittings such as furnace and cleaning doors, grates cast iron plates designed for brick standard sizes 250x120x65 mm, therefore, looking at the drawing, do not forget that it is also designed for a solid brick of standard sizes.

Most fireplaces are made of solid ceramic (red) bricks, while the firebox is made of fireclay (refractory). At the same time, it is desirable to lay the ceramic one on a clay-sand mortar, and the fireclay mortar on a clay mortar with the addition of sifted fireclay chips. The thickness of the seams on fireclay bricks should not exceed 5 mm, on ceramic 8 mm. Otherwise, at high temperatures during thermal expansion, the mortar from the joints may begin to crumble. To calculate the height chimney for a fireplace, I advise you to use "". Follow our updates this summer, we will start uploading a detailed instructional video of the process of laying fireplaces according to the orders presented on the site. Leave in the comments below your wishes about the model of the masonry fireplace video that you would like to see in the first place.

Fireplaces simultaneously heat and decorate the surrounding space. You can handle brick laying on your own. It is enough just to read the manual and do everything in accordance with the provisions of the instructions.

Remember to have an efficient and reliable chimney. The standard length of the smoke exhaust structure is 4-5 m. In some situations, this figure increases to 700 cm.

In a room with a fireplace, high-quality ventilation must be organized.

Directly erecting a fireplace is carried out on a solid platform that can withstand the weight of the finished structure.

Definition of basic dimensions

Perform the necessary preliminary calculations. Determine the volume of the room allotted for the construction of the fireplace. The opening of the firebox should be 1/50 of the volume of the room you calculated.

The height of the portal should be 2 times the depth of the firebox.

The given dimensions and ratios are very important. If the depth of the furnace is greater than the permissible value, the fireplace will significantly lose heat transfer. With a smaller size of the firebox, smoke will occur.

Select the dimensions of the smoke holes taking into account the dimensions of the furnace area. The cross-sectional area of the chimney should be 10-15 times smaller than the area of the firebox.

The optimal diameter of round chimneys is 100-150 mm. The length of the flue pipe can reach 500 cm or more.

Preparation of materials

Prepare the required amount (determine according to the planned dimensions and design of the fireplace). Also prepare fireclay bricks for arranging the firebox.

Additionally prepare the following:

mixture for laying bricks;
12 mm glass-magnesium sheet;
chimney;
oven tape for mounting fittings;
metal corners;
chimney flue.

Before starting work, cover with polyethylene everything that needs to be protected from contamination.

Prices for refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

Refractory mortar for stoves and fireplaces

fireplace base

The foundation design will include metal corners. They will additionally increase the strength of the site and protect it from destruction during seasonal changes in the soil.

Dig a hole for arranging the foundation in accordance with the design dimensions.

Fill the bottom of the hole with sand and gravel. Seal the pillow and lay the metal corners on it. Double the corner so that during the masonry process the most reliable and durable foundation is created. It is recommended to weld the corners so that they do not move in the future.

In this case, the corners must be mounted in such a way that the masonry elements installed later are located parallel to interior partition, mated with a fireplace (if such an option for arranging the structure is chosen).

Lay bricks in the corners, fill the entire structure with cement mortar and carefully level it with a plaster trowel.

The density of the solution should approximately correspond to the density of sour cream. With this consistency, the solution will be able to penetrate into all the cracks of the masonry, without leaving, at the same time, from the seams.

Make sure the base is level. To eliminate surface irregularities, use the same cement mortar. Leave the design to dry for a couple of days.

masonry

Cover the dried foundation with a double layer of roofing material. This will ensure necessary protection grounds.

Prepare a solution for brickwork. Traditionally, fireplaces are laid out using a mortar based on pre-soaked

Laying the first row is best done using a mortar with a small addition of cement (approximately 10-20% of the total mass of the mixture).

Calibrate the bricks in advance by selecting the most appropriate size products for the masonry of each row.

Soak the bricks in water for a while before laying. This will allow the products to be saturated with moisture. Otherwise, the bricks will take water from the clay mortar, which will lead to a significant deterioration in the quality of the masonry.

Lay out the first row of bricks edgewise. Check the correct layout of the row with a square and level. Make sure the opposite sides and diagonals of the base are the same length.

Laying is carried out in accordance with the order. The following is a procedure that is relevant for most existing varieties fireplaces. For the rest, be guided by the drawings you have.

First step

Lay out three continuous rows of the base.

Second step

Lay out 4-5 rows with the arrangement of the ash pan.

Third step

Lay out 6-7 rows with the arrangement of the bottom and brick salary.

Fourth step

Continue laying. Up to the 13th row, inclusive, form the walls of the firebox of the heating unit.

Fifth step

Lay out rows 14-19 with the arrangement of the smoke box.

sixth step

Lay out 20-25 rows of a fireplace with a chimney arrangement.

Equip the plinth and continuous rows of masonry using a trowel or trowel. and the fuel chamber are laid out manually, because. at these stages it is very important to control the quality of the solution used.

Apply the chimney mortar to the middle of the bricks. The edges of the elements must remain free.

When laying out each row, adhere to the chosen order. For greater convenience, you can number the products.

Pay special attention to the quality of the laying of the fuel compartment and smoke ducts - these elements must be laid out as evenly as possible and as tightly as possible.

Remove excess masonry mortar immediately.

Find out how to do it with step by step instructions in our new article.

To form a beautiful curved chimney vault, gradually overlap the masonry elements. It is important that the size of the overlap does not exceed 50-60 mm in each row.

The arrangement of curved lintels is carried out using temporary formwork - a circle. To fix such formwork, use supports under the equipped fireplace vault.

Start laying from the brick installed in the center, and then perform symmetrical masonry in both directions.

Periodically check the verticality of the flue pipe. Even the slightest deviation from the vertical can lead to smoke in the room.

For laying the chimney, use a mortar with the addition of cement, similar to the mixture used when laying the basement of the fireplace.

The flue pipe must be covered with a layer of refractory insulation to increase fire safety. Insulation is arranged in places where pipes pass through the structures of the house (flooring, roofing, etc.). The most commonly used insulation materials are asbestos-based.

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

To give the fireplace a more attractive appearance, finish it. The most commonly used finishing methods are:

Select the finish option of your choice. If you like the fireplace even without finishing, embroider the masonry seams with a special tool and thoroughly clean the surface of the structure from excess mortar.

Important: only fire-resistant paints and varnishes can be used to paint the fireplace.

The rest of the exterior depends solely on your imagination and personal preferences.

Successful work!

Video - How to build a fireplace with your own hands

In order for the fire in a simple heating device to be at the right height, 4 rows must be laid out from the floor to the hearth. The three lower levels are covered with crushed stone with sand or pebbles. On the fourth, L-shaped pins for the fireplace grate are laid.

For good traction and, accordingly, heating the room, it is necessary to install a valve. When lighting a fire, it must be fully opened. When the firewood has flared up, this device closes so that the gas formation is at an optimal level. If you add the middle rows, the fireplace will be higher. This type of device has a simple gas-gathering overlap with a direct exit of gases. Shelves on the sides are optional.

If necessary, the upper part of the fireplace, starting from the 30th row, can be completed differently by making a horizontal flue that will serve as a spark arrester.

Necessary materials

You will need the following items to work:

red brick - 370 pieces (the exact amount depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room);
valve size 24x13 cm;
reinforced concrete tiles for shelves and portals; this material can be replaced with a product made of marble or natural stone.

Download order and drawing

You can download the order of a simple fireplace in PDF format at.

Option 2

There is another scheme for erecting an open hearth - with a heater that increases the efficiency of the heater.

This simple fireplace can heat a 28 m² room. AT winter time year, the unit retains heat for 8-10 hours at outdoor temperatures down to -12 ° C. Heat transfer can be increased by making the masonry higher. If the height is too low, this may cause the heater to malfunction and cause smoke to enter the room.

Download project. 3D ordering

Questions and answers

Question: Will the unit function normally if a door is added to it? Or will it change the traction a lot?
Answer: Everything needs to be tried. It is impossible to give a definite answer.

AT: I wanted to build a fireplace according to the project. He invited several stove-makers who unanimously say that he will not work. Experts say that there is no slope in the back wall of the firebox, and therefore it will smoke. Since the device for burning fuel is not made from the fireplace, it may crack. How to be?
O: The design of A. I. Ryazankin, a stove-maker with almost 40 years of experience, was taken as the basis for this heating device. I think his work can be trusted. The fireplace will smoke if the height of the fuel chamber is reduced, while the height of the structure itself can be increased if necessary.
Here we are talking about the absence of a chimney tooth. Make a horizontal channel to the left 3 levels higher than row 27, put a door to clean it on the left side. Shut off the unit with three more levels, and move the valve to 32. This design will act as a chimney tooth with a pipe located on the left. If the channel needs to be placed on the right, from the 24th row and above, make a mirror masonry.
Levels 2 to 11 inner part ovens are made of fireclay bricks. This will improve the reliability of the design.

AT: Can you please add an oven?
O: Probably yes, but we haven't tried it.

AT: Will it be possible to build a hot-water box (heat exchanger) into this fireplace, but in such a way that this device is heated by flue gases? Is it possible in principle to implement such a thing?

O: In practice, such devices have never been found in fireplaces. There is a possibility that you can lose traction. We recommend purchasing a heater with a water circuit or ordering a device according to an individual project. If you are new to the furnace business, we do not recommend taking on this job on your own.

AT: Is it possible to connect an additional back wall to the fireplace, which will pass through the aerated concrete structure into the corridor, and make another channel in it to remove smoke for the firebox in the winter season?
O: The main heating of the room occurs due to the firebox. There are big doubts that with the help of the back wall it will be possible to warm up the neighboring room.