How to start assembling interior doors. How to install an interior door: how to assemble a box, installing extensions

20.06.2020

Until recently, installing interior doors with your own hands was a rather difficult task and required serious experience and skills from a person. Now everything has become much easier, having a good tool and knowing the procedure for installing interior doors, any House master able to finish the job in a day. Next, we will step by step analyze how to properly install an interior door in two ways.

Variants of canvases for interior doors.

Before you put an interior door, you must first select it. When choosing, there are 2 main criteria - this is the size of the structure and the material from which the doors and the box to them are actually made.

Material selection

Not so important is the installation of an interior door in wooden house or in a room of an urban high-rise building, the design must be not only beautiful, but also reliable, and this primarily depends on the material.

Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option. The design is a hollow box closed on both sides thin sheets Fiberboard and based on a frame made of wooden blocks.

You should not hurry with the installation of such a door, of course it is light and cheap, and it can look quite decent, but not everything is in order with reliability, such a design can be broken even with a fist, plus there is a high probability that in a couple of years it will begin to exfoliate.

MDF is golden mean between cheap fiberboard and good wooden structure. The array is dense, durable, and most importantly completely environmentally friendly. Self-assembly interior laminated MDF sheets at home is a great way out if there are no funds for installers, and beautiful door I want to.

The MDF canvas must be laminated with high quality, then it will not visually differ from the wooden one.

Natural wood - traditionally it is believed that the installation wooden doors this is the most the best option, but this is wrong, here you need to look at the quality and the manufacturer. Believe me, sometimes it's better to insert interior doors good quality MDF laminate than to take a raw pine, which in six months will lead.

When buying wooden canvases, you need to carefully evaluate the quality of the forest.

If you decide to change interior doors and you have a high-quality wooden loot, then it is not necessary to touch it, you can only replace the canvas. In this case, the technology for installing interior doors will be much easier.

GOSTs, tolerances and unclear questions

The size of the doorway for installation is perhaps the most important of the initial parameters. To this day, all such structures are made according to Soviet GOSTs, by the way, the Chinese are also guided by these dimensions, but in Europe, despite the supposedly uniform standard, many countries do it their own way.

So if our minimum web width starts from 600 mm and further in increments of 100 mm, it reaches 900 mm, then France produces canvases starting from 690 mm, but the graduation also comes in increments of 100 mm.

Germany, Spain and Italy, as well as all the countries of the former socialist camp, in this respect are guided by almost the same standards as our manufacturers.

Interior doors have clear standards that you need to check before you install an interior door yourself.

As for tolerances, a gap of 3 mm is left between the box and the canvas itself on the sides and top. According to the rules, at least 20 mm must be made between the floor and the canvas. This slot is needed for normal ventilation in the apartment.

Any gap can be left along the perimeter of the box in block buildings, up to several millimeters, the main thing is that the box becomes even, but if we cut the doors in a wooden house with our own hands, then we set a tolerance of at least 15 mm, it is needed in case the house gives shrinkage.

When an interior door is selected, installation is already the last stage, before that you need to read the description in detail, because the price can be indicated depending on the configuration, there are 3 options:

Only the door leaf is for sale - this option is good if the door is planned to be installed on an old box;
The canvas is sold together with the box, but the box comes unassembled, here, even before you install the interior door with your own hands, you will have to cut it to size and assemble the box, which in most cases is even good;
Completely assembled blocks with finished box, canvas, locks and hinges are installed only if preparation of the opening is not required. There it is enough to cut the racks in height and install the interior door yourself.

Do not forget that it is not enough just to install interior doors in the opening, complete installation The interior door provides for the arrangement of platbands, extensions (if necessary) and fittings, so it is also advisable to take them immediately, otherwise the shade may not come up later.

Installation of interior doors will not be complete without platbands and fittings.

There is another important question - when to install interior doors during repairs? So, the instructions for installing interior doors say that such structures are mounted at the very end of the repair, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling, but before installing floor skirting boards.

Two mounting options

With dimensional tolerances and other acute issues sorted out, now it's time to find out how to install the interior door yourself. But in order to assemble and install the structure, we need a tool.

A few words about the instrument and related material

To install interior doors, we need:

A hacksaw for wood, but ideally it is better to have a miter saw, it does not leave chips, plus you can set the exact cutting angle there;
To expose openings between the box and the wall, wedges are required;
A hammer;
Chisel;
Screwdriver;
Electric drill;
Plumb;
Level;
Pencil;
Roulette.

Install interior doors yourself good tool unreal.

Important! Safety regulations categorically prohibit cutting a tree with a grinder. If you value your health, don't even think about it.

Of the auxiliary materials for installing doors you will need:

Mounting foam;
masking tape;
Self-tapping screws of different sizes and sections;
Anchor bolts with dowels.

Opening preparation

Ideally, before installing an interior door, the edges of the walls should, if not plastered, then at least leveled with a cement-sand mortar.

But in real conditions, the preparation of the doorway for the installation of an interior door ends with fitting the dimensions to the box, because then the impartial cracks will foam up and close with platbands, so there is no point in inducing special beauty.

It is advisable to level the doorway before installing the box.

There is one here important point: often the installation of a double interior door requires an expansion of the opening, and so, when it comes to piers, they can be “redrawn” as you see fit. But if the wall is load-bearing, then a slight expansion of no more than 5-7 cm is allowed, otherwise there may be problems, both with the wall and with the law.

Box assembly

Do-it-yourself door box can be assembled in two ways - this is with cutting the corners of the upper bar at 45º and joining the bars at a right angle. Both methods are good, but it is believed that the 45º corner joint will look more elegant.

Really high-quality corner trimming can only be done with the help of trimming, if you are assured that an ordinary plastic miter box and a hacksaw for wood are suitable for this, do not believe it, you can ruin the boxes.

The vertical posts are cut off at 45º first, after which you can proceed to trimming the upper horizontal bar. In order to set aside 3 mm, it is convenient to use a piece of fiberboard as a template.

We measure the gap relative to the upper bar with a template.

You put the top bar cut on one side and slide it along the cut of the template;
Then go to the opposite side of the door and, applying the same template, mark the cut line.

Trimming the top bar at an angle using trimming.

Now we lay out the finished, trimmed slats of the box on the floor and once again control the dimensions.

It looks like a door frame cut at an angle.

The box is fastened in stages. First you need to tightly connect the planks to each other the way they should be;
The slats of the box when screwing the screws can crack, so that this does not happen, before assembling, we need to drill channels for the screws. This is done with a 2.5 mm drill (we have a 3.5 mm self-tapping screw);

Preparing to fasten the box.

Now you can screw the screws into the ends of the box on both sides, and there should be 2 screws on each side of the corner.

There is a small nuance here, the vertical bar of the box to which the hinges will be attached completely on both sides does not need to be tightened, we still have to remove it.

Fixing the box with cutting at an angle.

If there is no miter saw in your arsenal, then it is better to mount the box strips at a right angle. It may not be as aesthetically pleasing, but step-by-step instruction it will be a little easier.

We start by trying on the upper crossbar, we will cut it between the two side posts. Some masters mount the crossbar above the side racks, there is not much difference, here it’s already convenient for anyone.

Along the perimeter of the box, we have a side into which the door leaf lies when closing. To embed the upper cross member, on the side racks we need to remove this side. To do this, we apply the upper cross member to the rack, mark and cut the side with a hacksaw, and clean out the place for installation.

Now we just have to insert the top bar between the two side posts, drill holes for a pair of self-tapping screws and secure the inserted bar with self-tapping screws.

If you decide to put the bar on top of the racks, then there you will need to cut the inner side on the top bar, then drill and drive the screws from above, as shown in the diagram below.

Do-it-yourself installation of a bar placed on top.

Installing hinges and handles

For a door, installing hinges is one of the most important steps. In principle, you can embed a lock and hang hinges even after installing the box in the opening, but if you mount the doors yourself (without assistants), then it is better to do it right away.

Loops are overhead and hidden. Butterfly overlay hinges are easier to work with, since you don’t need to cut anything in the door leaf and frame, so we’ll start with them.

A little advice: if the door should open on the right side, then you insert the hinges on the right, respectively, for left-hand opening, the hinges must be mounted on the left rack.

Installation of loops begins with markings on the canvas itself. According to the rules, the distance from the top or bottom point of the canvas to the loop should be 200 - 250 mm. You can measure with a tape measure, as in the photo below, but if there was no tape measure at hand, then use the loops themselves, where the standard size is 100 mm.

We make markings for the installation of loops.

Do not confuse: the small (inner) part of the butterfly loop is attached to the door leaf, and the large one, to the box post. Before screwing the screws under them, you need to drill holes, only after that the screws are driven.

All hinges have recesses for the heads of the screws, so make sure that these recesses “look” up. If the hinges are installed the other way around, then the heads of the self-tapping screws will remain above the hinges, respectively, the doors will not close completely.

We drill holes for butterfly loops.

The box is practically assembled, now we put it on the floor and put the door leaf inside. As you remember, we should have 3 mm around the perimeter of the canvas, so we immediately insert as many homemade fiberboard templates as possible (3 mm thick) between the box and the canvas.

One part of the loop is screwed to the canvas, in order to screw the second part of the loop to the box, we make a mark on the box. Then we unscrew the self-tapping screws fixing the bearing vertical bar and fasten the reciprocal part of the loops to it. Then we return the bar of the box to its place and fix it completely.

We fasten the hinges to the vertical rack of the box.

Self installation hidden loops are not much more complicated than the above method. The difference lies in the fact that in the door leaf and the box you need to cut grooves for the hinges. This is done with a mallet, chisel and knife.

We cut grooves for mounting hidden loops

As for the installation of the door handle, you can read about it in detail, as well as view it on the video in this article. And do not forget that the hinges must be lubricated, you can find out about the rules for lubrication.

There are different ways to install interior doors in a wall opening, it all depends on the specific conditions. Next, we will consider the simplest and most popular options.

Method number 1. Classic

At the moment, our racks of the box should be cut to the height of the opening, the hinges and the lock are embedded, the door is closed, and 3 mm thick templates are inserted between the canvas and the box.

When the door block is inserted into the opening, first of all, wooden or plastic wedges are driven around the perimeter, they will hold the block until it is finally fixed.

The classic scheme for installing interior doors using wedges.

Fixing is a rather crucial moment, here we expose the block vertically and horizontally. Keep in mind: the wall is not always strictly vertical, so check the box with a plumb line.

It is better to check the vertical by plumb.

In order for the door block not to fall out from a strong push, it must be firmly fixed with anchor bolts or at least long self-tapping screws. We recommend using anchor bolts with a thickness of 6 - 8 mm.

The principle is simple:

Drilling in a box through hole and slightly drilled into the wall;
Remove the door block and drill holes for dowels at the drilling points;
Put the box in place and fix it with anchors. The box should become clear in level, since before that we have already verified everything.

If you fix the box with long self-tapping screws, then they are installed around the entire perimeter with an interval of half a meter, but the caps of the self-tapping screws need to be somehow hidden. You can close them with a decorative strip or plastic lining.

Anchor bolts are a powerful thing and 3 points are enough to fix the box - two points under the hinges and one under the lock plate. In combination with mounting foam, this is enough.

Now we fill the perimeter of the box with mounting foam. We move from the bottom up, the foam must be blown out without fanaticism, because when it expands, it can squeeze out the door frame.

Plus, at the time the foam is blown in, the door block must be assembled and three-millimeter templates must be inserted around the perimeter, this will protect the box from deformation.

Remember: only on the "bare" foam (without screws or anchors) the door block cannot be fixed.

Method number 2. Metal hangers

If mounting the box on self-tapping screws or anchors is not suitable for you, the same can be done using metal hangers. These hangers are used for mounting frames under drywall.

Use of hangers to fix the door frame.

The technology is similar:

Collect the box;
Insert the box into the opening and level it;
Fix the box with wedges in the opening;

Bend the wings of the hangers along the wall;
Mark the entry points for dowel-nails and drill holes for them;
Attach the wings of the suspensions to the walls with dowel-nails;
Fill with foam and wait until it hardens.

The size of the box for double-leaf interior doors is twice as large, respectively, the probability of squeezing out the racks and the crossbar with mounting foam is higher, so installation on suspensions is optimal here.

Fixing the frame for double doors on suspensions.

Conclusion

Both of the above methods have been tested in practice and work perfectly. The same craftsmen who wish to install interior sliding doors We have prepared step by step instructions.

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems.

There are many installation options, depending on the approach of the wizard and the tool at hand. We will look at one of the most simple methods without the use of special equipment, which is available to everyone.

1. Prepare tools and materials

Door leaf and frame.
Platband and additional strips.
Universal butterfly loops, handle and lock.
Saw, screwdriver and drill.
Pencil, awl and knife.
Chisel and hammer.
Level, tape measure and wedges.
Screws, nails, .

2. Dismantle the old door

If you paste new door instead of replacing the old one - go to the next step.

Remove the canvas from the hinges, disassemble the door frame. Clear the opening of plaster residue and other debris.

This is necessary so that you do not have to fiddle with narrowing or, conversely, expanding the opening. Standard sizes doors - 2 m high and 60, 70, 80 or 90 cm wide. Double doors are usually combined from two canvases. For example, 120 cm is 60 + 60.

Since the canvas is installed in the door frame, and even with gaps for mounting foam, the opening should be slightly larger. As a rule, by 8-10 cm. This includes the thickness of the frame and all the necessary clearances.

Measure the width of the opening and select a canvas 8–10 cm narrower.
Measure the height of the opening from the finished floor and make sure it is more height doors 6–9 cm.
Take measurements in several places and take into account the smallest result. For example, if the width of the opening at the bottom is 89 cm, in the middle - 91 cm, and at the top - 90 cm, then the width should be considered equal to 89 cm.

4. Decide on the opening and hanging side

If the canvas is installed flush with the wall in the corridor, then it will open into the passage. If with a wall in the room, then the door will swing open there. Think about what is more convenient, and consider this moment.

To open to the right, the hinges must be hung with right side, and for opening to the left - from the left. In order not to be mistaken, stand opposite and imagine that you are opening it for yourself. If it is with glass, then the matte side should be directed to the corridor, and the glossy side should be directed to the room.

5. Unpack the door

Remove the packaging with your hands or carefully open the film with a knife. Cut not on the front, but on the back surface, so as not to damage the coating. Leave one of the side cardboards: it will serve as a lining and protect the end of the canvas from scratches during operation.

6. Hang the hinges

If you are installing a door for the first time, it is better to use butterfly hinges. They are universal and suitable for both right and left hitches. But most importantly: they do not need to be embedded in a box, which is very convenient for non-professionals.

Put the door on edge front side towards you with a piece of cardboard.
Measure 250 mm from the edge of the canvas and make a mark with a pencil - this will be the center of the loop.
Attach the closed loop to the canvas with the side where the holes of the small part are chamfered.
To clarify the place of screwing in the screws, mark the centers with an awl and carefully drill holes with a diameter of 2–2.5 mm.
Screw in one of the screws. It will fix the loop and facilitate marking.
Mark all holes in this way and screw in the screws.
Remember: the small part of the hinge is attached to the canvas, and the large part is attached to the door frame.
Repeat the same procedure for the second loop.

7. Embed the lock

Turn the canvas over so that the hinges are on the floor, and the opposite side, where the lock will stand, is at the top.
Correctly position - in the center of the door. The square hole for the handle should be at the top, and the beveled part of the latch should be directed towards closing. If necessary, the tongue can be easily turned over by simply pulling with your fingers.
Measure the length and width of the lock mounting plate, as well as the thickness of the door. Make a markup and place the bar strictly in the center of the canvas.
Expand the lock reverse side and attach to the door. Mark the center of the mounting holes, drill, screw in the screws.
Trace the plank around the outline with a pencil and carefully cut the film with a sharp knife to clearly mark the boundaries of the installation sample and not damage the edge.
Remove the lock and separate the cut film from the canvas with a chisel.
Attach the mechanism to the door, aligning it with the planned location, and mark the width of the cabinet. Measure the thickness of the lock at its widest point and mark on the canvas.
Draw bounding lines 2mm from the edges of the slot on both sides.
Using a drill with a diameter of 6–7 mm, make holes along the contour of the sample for the lock mechanism. To engage maximum area, arrange the holes in a checkerboard pattern. Act carefully and do not protrude beyond the markings.
Slowly cut off the drilled wood with a chisel and trim the edges of the groove so that the lock enters freely, but does not hang out.
Gradually remove the wood with a chisel to drown the mounting bar flush with the canvas. Check by applying the lock with the back side, and not inserting it into place - otherwise it will be difficult to get it out.
Attach the lock to the side and mark with a pencil a square hole for the pen shaft. Make markings on both sides and remember that this shape should be on top, not bottom, when the door is installed.
Insert a piece of wood inside the groove as a support and a drill with a diameter of 20 mm from one side, and then from the other side.
Install the lock in place and secure with screws, having previously drilled holes for them.

8. Assemble the door frame

Arrange the side racks of the door frame along the edges of the canvas so as not to confuse. They should be facing a quarter towards the hinge of the door. That is, you should see seals.
Calculate the height of the stand for correct trimming. It consists of the size of the leaf (2,000 mm), the gap between the frame and the door (3 mm), the thickness of the frame itself (22–25 mm) and the gap between the leaf and the floor (8–22 mm). The lower threshold is made only in the bathrooms, in other cases a gap is left for carpets and other coverings.
Calculate the width of the cross bar of the door frame. To do this, add 6 mm to the width of the door leaf, so that you end up with a gap of 3 mm on each side.
Carefully cut all planks to size. Better miter saw, but you can also use a hacksaw with a small tooth.
Remove the quarters on the side posts to align with the top bar. To do this, slide the seals to the side, make cuts with a saw, and then chip off the interfering pieces with a chisel. Use the box cuts as a template for greater accuracy.
Cut the rubber seals on the side posts at a 45 degree angle to avoid an unsightly gap after assembly.
Fold the frame strips together, align the edges and fasten with screws. Pre-make holes for the screws and screw two pieces into each rack. Use box cutouts for precise markings.

9. Hang the canvas on the door frame

Lay the door frame on the floor and carefully place the canvas into it. Place pieces of fiberboard 3 mm thick around the perimeter to form the same gap.
Mark the top of each hinge on the frame with a pencil.
Unscrew the screws from the side post and "open" it on the hinges up. To prevent the canvas from falling, place the trimmings of the box under it from above and below.
Align the top of the hinge with the mark on the frame and mark the centers of the screw holes with an awl. Screw in the screws, having previously drilled holes for the fasteners.
Repeat the procedure for the second loop and secure it.
“Close” the box and reassemble it by attaching it with screws to the top bar.

10. Install the box with the canvas in the opening

Lift the hinged door and insert it into the opening. Align the canvas on a plane with the wall, using the wedges as spacers. You can buy them or cut them yourself. Insert one wedge into small slots, two into large slots, turning them towards each other. This is necessary for the accuracy of the adjustment.
Align the rack with the hinges first, then the rest. Apply a level and push or pull the door to achieve a strictly vertical position. If the wall is littered, the canvas still needs to be leveled so that it closes and opens easily.
Using pieces of fiberboard or other templates, set 3 mm gaps around the perimeter between the canvas and door frame. Install them opposite each other. This will avoid deformation of the frame during the curing of the mounting foam.
Place a level on the edge of the door or two pieces of fiberboard and make sure the door is vertical.
Fill the gaps between the door frame and the wall with mounting foam, starting from the bottom and moving up. Use quality foam with a low expansion coefficient so that it does not deform the box, hardening and expanding.
If the gap is large, for example, above the top bar, then fill the space gradually by moving the gun up and down with a snake. Do not fill the foam flush with the wall - it is better to leave a small gap, the composition will fill it after hardening.

11. Check for correct installation

Not earlier than in a day, cut off the protruding mounting foam. It is easy to check the solidification: it will become very dense, and it will be seen from the cut piece that the material is homogeneous.
Carefully remove the fiberboard and wedges. Check all gaps - they should be the same. And also the correct installation: when opening the canvas remains in one position, without moving in different directions.

12. Mount the handles and lock striker

Loosen the locking screws at the bottom of both handles with the supplied hex key and insert the square rod into them until it stops. Attach the assembled structure to the door. The distance between the handles should be less than the thickness of the blade. If it is larger, shorten the rod a little with a hacksaw or grinder.
Remove decorative rosettes from the handles by unscrewing them counterclockwise along the thread. Insert the handles into their places so that the locking screw is at the bottom, and mark the places for fasteners with a pencil. Drill holes and screw in screws. Install decorative sockets in place.
Close the door and mark the top and bottom of the latch on the box with a pencil. Measure the distance from the edge of the canvas to the outside of the tongue. Mark this dimension on the frame and draw a line to the latch boundary marks.
Flip the striker over and align it with the center of the tongue mark. Drill holes and screw in screws to secure the bar to the frame. Circle the contours with a pencil and cut the film with a sharp knife, as you did with the lock.
Remove the bar and make holes with a small drill along the contour of the future groove for the latch, and with a chisel - a sample. It’s not scary if the sample protrudes slightly beyond the boundaries of the marks; after installing the bar, all the gaps will overlap.
With a chisel, carefully remove the film along the outer contour of the striker to drown it flush with the door frame. Secure the plank in place with screws. Check: if everything is done correctly, closed door doesn't talk.

They are mounted from the side of the room, when the width of the door frame pillars does not allow covering the entire thickness of the opening. Additional strips are inserted into the frame and attached to the wall with foam, and later trims are nailed onto them.

If your frame thickness matches the dimensions doorway, go directly to the next step.

Cut off and chip off the pieces protruding from the sides of the frame with a chisel so that they do not interfere. Remove the remaining foam around the perimeter of the door frame.
Measure the width of the opening and cut the top trim to the appropriate size. Attach it to the right place and, if it protrudes beyond the boundaries of the opening, mark with a pencil and remove the excess part. Insert the trimmed extension into the box, align and secure with wedges on the sides.
In the same way, measure, cut and fit the side trim strips. Set them in place and align.
Apply a continuous strip of mounting foam at the junction of the extension with the door frame at the top and sides. At the outer edge of the additional plank, fill the joint with the wall with small strips. Do not fill the entire space with foam, otherwise it will expand and deform the extension.

14. Stuff the platbands

Cut off the foam protruding beyond the plane of the door frame with a sharp knife.
Attach the trim to the frame from the side of the hinges close to them and see how much clearance is obtained to the inner edge of the box. The same distance must be maintained along the entire perimeter on other platbands.
The joints of the top and side strips of the platbands can be made at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. If there is no miter saw at hand and you are installing the door for the first time, it is better to stop at the second option. It's much easier.
Install the side plank, pressing it to the hinges, and nail it with studs in 20–25 cm increments. Do not hammer them in to the end and do not forget to first make a hole in the casing with a drill of a smaller diameter than the nail.
Attach the second side plank and, after maintaining the required gap, make a mark with a pencil and cut off the excess to the desired length. Nail the casing with carnations, as before.
Try on the top bar, cut it to size and fasten it. Important! It should not lie on the side, but be between them. In this case, the cut end of the upper casing will be hidden.
By the same principle, fill the platbands on the other side of the door. If additional strips are installed, then align the edges of the platbands along them. If there are no extensions, maintain the same gap around the perimeter of the door frame as on the opposite side.

So that it will serve for many years, regularly performing its function.

Read in the article

How to choose and install an interior door in size and configuration

Manufacturers offer products of various widths and heights, which allows you to choose the right model for any opening. Cloths for swing structures, made in Russia and most EU countries, can have a width of 600 mm, increasing in 100 mm increments. The minimum width of French-made doors is 690 mm. The resizing step is 100 mm.

When choosing a door leaf, the dimensions of the door frame should be taken into account. If the opening is of irregular geometric shape, the minimum width is taken into account. Otherwise, it will need to be expanded, which will greatly complicate the installation work.

Attention! The standard height of interior doors is 2 m.

When choosing a suitable product, you should also focus on the purpose of the room for which they are intended. For living rooms, canvases with a width of 60-120 cm are purchased, for the kitchen - at least 70 cm, for a bathroom or toilet - from 60 cm.

Items sold may vary. In the maximum version, the delivery set includes a door block. The installer will only need to cut the sidewalls to size, level the structure and fix it. In the minimum version, all elements of the door system are purchased separately, and then mounted together.

How to install an interior door with your own hands, if you only change the canvas

If the door frame is strong enough, completely satisfied with the design and color of the owners, it is not necessary to completely change the system. It is enough just to replace the sash. Next, we will tell you how to install it yourself with a partial replacement of structural elements.

How to remove an old door leaf

How to install the interior door leaf yourself

When starting to install the sash, it should be raised to a small height and a board placed below. We combine the elements first of the upper and then the lower loop. When figuring out how to install it yourself, you should pay attention that it is better to do this work together. In this case, it will be possible to perform the installation better.

A video on how to properly install interior doors on your own will help you understand the nuances of replacing the door leaf.

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door with a box - step by step instructions

If you plan to do the installation yourself, the step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the process. We offer you to find out the nuances that will help to carry out the installation qualitatively.

What tools and consumables are needed for work

List of tools, equipment and Supplies will depend on design features mounted system, and how it is planned to install interior doors. As a rule, you need to prepare:

drill. If work is carried out in apartment building, then instead of a drill it is better to take a puncher;
drills for wood by 3-4 mm and concrete by 4 and 6 mm;
roulette;
pencil;
building level;
for wood and concrete;
mounting foam.

The procedure for dismantling the old door and carrying out work to strengthen the doorway

Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors should begin with the dismantling of the old structure. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage doorway. For this:

remove the door leaf from the hinges;
we remove cash. To do this, we insert an ax between the product and the wall and gently squeeze the fasteners;
dismantle the box, after removing all fasteners. It is usually located near the castle and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe loops. Screws should be unscrewed at low speeds;
we remove the allowance.

Having dismantled the door, you should carefully examine the opening. Remains of old material should be completely removed. In the presence of mechanical damage, the geometry of the opening should be restored. You can do this with .

If a heavy interior door is to be installed in the apartment, measures may be required to strengthen the doorway, including:

around the entire perimeter of the doorway;
cutting to the size of the channels for the entire surface of the doorway;
installation in prepared strobes of channels. To fix them in the opening, studs of a suitable diameter are used;
in the corners, individual elements are welded together.

How to install an interior door frame

After the opening is fully prepared, we suggest figuring out how to install the door frame of the interior door. The procedure will depend on the form of delivery of this element. Manufacturers offer a box:

assembled. In this case, the assembled structure can be immediately mounted in the opening;
in the form of cut-to-size elements. By connecting them together, the structure is installed in the opening;
like a curly bar. In this case, the elements are cut off first. right size, then interconnected and only then the box is mounted.

Consider last option settings in more detail.

Taking measurements and assembling the door frame

We measure the parameters of the doorway using a tape measure of sufficient length. When determining the height of the uprights and the length of the crossbars, the gaps between the frame and the door leaf should be taken into account. They are selected from the range of 5-10 mm. The gap between the floor and the sash can be larger.

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Head of the team of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

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" Measurements of the same parameter should be made at several points.

Illustration	Action Description
	We cut off the elements, ensuring the formation of the selected angle. The elements of the box can be located at a right angle or 45 °. There are other more complex options that you should not resort to when doing the installation yourself. It is better to entrust them to the master.
	We mark up the elements.
	We cut off the elements using a tool with fine teeth.
	We form landing grooves and connect the elements together. We check the correctness of the work performed by putting the sash into the assembled box. There should be equal gaps on all sides.

Hinge installation

We mark the place where the loops will be located. Usually it is 20-25 cm above the lower edge of the sash and below the top. We remove a layer of material to the width of the fittings. In this case, the fastening will be flush. This can be done with a chisel or a special tool.

Attention! When forming a place for the hinges of an interior door, you should work very carefully so as not to damage the decorative layer.

Mounting the box in the doorway

We install the assembled box in the doorway:

Illustration	Action Description
	We provide the required spatial arrangement with the help of pegs or timber. Auxiliary elements can be fixed in level before installing the box at the level of future hinges.
	We fasten the box using suitable fasteners. The space between the box and the wall can be filled with foam.

How to install the door leaf of an interior door

Quite a crucial moment for those who learn how to install interior doors. First, the counterpart of the hinges should be screwed to the door leaf or the mounting holes should be marked if it is decided to use non-separable fittings. How to insert an interior door? You just need to put it on the loops. After that, you should make sure that it opens and closes well.

Installation of additional elements

Platband installation

Before installation, the platbands are sawn at an angle of 45 °. They are nailed to the box with finishing nails or nails without caps.

Interior doors can be used for years, but sometimes there are situations when they need to be replaced. The technology for installing interior doors has not changed since the invention of hinges. In order to install doors, their owners often turn to professionals for help, but this procedure can be done by yourself, and you can spend money on something more useful. Of course, you will need certain knowledge, patience and work, but the result will be a worthy reward.

Of course, the door itself is not some kind of high-tech system, but it is also not a simple board that closes the entrance to the room. The canvas should open and close easily, not creak, be strong enough to “take a hit”.

To ensure the strength of the structure, the master must correctly assemble the box, which is the basis of the entire structure, install fittings on the canvas and the box - hinges, handles, a latch, a lock, fix the box, hang the canvas evenly, adjust the mechanism as a whole, complete the picture with the installation of extensions and platbands. The first two steps can be done in any order, but all other steps are done sequentially. Depends on correct installation interior doors.

Installation procedure

Installation options may vary depending on the type of interior doors. Some plastic, as well as metal-plastic doors are delivered to the buyer in a fully assembled form. Let's not focus on them. An interesting option is when the box has not yet been assembled and is a series of wooden bars of various lengths, the canvas is not decorated with fittings, the slats for the platbands are not cut off.

Box assembly

The most complex and painstaking process is the assembly of the box. Any errors and inaccuracies in the work may lead to subsequent difficulties in operation, and in the most sad cases, the need to purchase a new product. You should not be lazy, be sure to pay due attention to all measurements - “Measure 7 times, cut 1 time!”

Installation of doors is fully regulated, good producers there are always interior paintings detailed instructions for carrying out the procedure.

First of all, you should connect the box with the letter P. For this, bars (three pieces) are taken. If you need to build a threshold, you will also need a lower beam bar. In this case, the box will be four-sided.

The main task is to ensure the accuracy of measurements of the size of the opening, as well as canvases, racks, lintels, taking into account all the gaps, even washed down the bars in the places of their interconnection, high-quality assembly. It should be noted that the thickness of the timber should not be less than the thickness of the door leaf. Measurements should be performed using a tape measure, separately measure the right and left sides of the opening and the canvas (they may not be mirrored). All slightest deviations must be taken into account in further measurements.

Be sure to leave a gap on the outer sides of the beam for mounting foam (at least 10 mm). On the inside, the gap may not be so significant, up to 5 mm. It is important to ensure that there is a gap around the entire perimeter. In addition, you should leave a gap between the canvas and the floor, depending on the type of flooring. If it is linoleum - then about 10 mm, if carpet - 15 mm, for laminate 10 mm.

The technology for installing interior doors implies the need to wash down a bar for a box. To make cuts correctly and evenly, you should use special machine(cutting). If there is no machine at hand (as happens in most cases of self-installation), a miter box with a hand saw will do.

Consider two ways to connect the parts of the door frame into one.

The first - washed down at an angle of 45 degrees. Not the easiest way for a layman. He demands heightened attention to cutting accuracy. On the other hand, there is a reason to choose just such an option - a well-joined box, washed down with this form, looks great. In order to connect the components of the box, self-tapping screws are used, the holes for which are drilled through. Drilling must be perpendicular to the cut. It should be noted very important nuance– holes are drilled in advance in order to prevent damage to the decorative surface. A drill is used, the diameter of which is ¾ of the diameter of the self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws must be cut along the entire length.

The second option - washed down at an angle of 90 degrees. This is a very simple, but less aesthetic way. To complete the procedure, you can use a regular hacksaw for wood. For fastening, as well as in the first version, self-tapping screws are used. When calculating the size of the ceiling beam, you should be aware that it is imperative to leave a distance between the feigned and hinged beams, which is equal to the sum of the web width plus 6 mm for gaps. If the door has a threshold, the beam should only be cut at a right angle.

The assembly of the box should be carried out on a flat horizontal plane (it is possible on the floor or in the entrance). On the flooring put cardboard or plywood.

Hardware installation

The next step is to install the fittings on the canvas and the box. Fire safety rules suggest the need to open doors to the outside. Loops can be left or right, but universal ones are most often used. Nowadays high technology hinge designs appeared that do not require cutting off the part of the door surface necessary for their installation.

The indentation from above and below is measured with a tape measure, it usually ranges from 15 to 25 cm. If the door is equipped with a third hinge, it is set 50 cm from the upper border of the canvas. Consider also gaps equal to 0.3 mm.

If necessary cut seats for hinges, you should know that the cutout should allow the flag to be installed flush with the box and the canvas (flush). The cut is carried out using a cutter, finalized using a chisel. If there is no cutter, you can complete the job using only a chisel.
The correct installation of hinges for interior doors is captured on video.

Most people find that it is much more convenient to fix the fittings at the initial stage, before assembling the box. Meanwhile, there is no particular difference in the order of these actions.

Where it should be doorhandle, decides the owner of the premises. A distance of 90 to 120 cm from the floor is used as a standard. It is attached depending on its type and the presence or absence of a lock. In all cases, a mounting tool is used, which is included with the handle.

Fixing the door frame

For fastening, three solid self-tapping screws are enough. Mounting foam will serve as a good addition for a more durable fixing of the structure. It must be remembered that before screwing the screws, you must first drill holes for them.

It is better to fasten the door frame with two people. It rises from the floor and is located in the opening, leaving the necessary gaps for the mounting foam. The door is leveled with wedges both horizontally and vertically. For measurement accuracy, a level is used. If everything is correct and even, screws are screwed in to fix the box.

After installing the box, the canvas is hung, the door travel is checked. Uneven gaps and distortions are not allowed. The box is glued with adhesive tape, and cardboard is inserted into the gaps around the canvas. Next, the door closes, and to fill the gaps is used polyurethane foam. You should not foam the entire space at once, it is better to approach in several approaches.

Do not touch the door until the foam hardens completely. If everything worked out, we can assume that the installation procedure is completed. The final touch is the cleaning of the space from construction debris and the installation of platbands.

So, the procedure for installing interior doors is clear. Do-it-yourself installation - great experience and savings Money. Golden hands are valued in any man, they are proud of his skills and knowledge. Self-installation of doors is a way to prove to all relatives and friends your competence and skills!

The installation instructions for interior doors allow you to install such structures on your own without much difficulty. You just need to strictly follow its points.

Thank you for your help in creating the article of our partners: Porta prima interior doors factory - www.portaprima.ru

Door structures between rooms in an apartment or a private house cannot be called very complex. technical systems. However, their assembly and installation require knowledge of a number of nuances. Firstly, a self-installed door should not spontaneously open. Secondly, it must close without excessive effort. Thirdly, door structures must have a certain strength and not fall apart in cases where they are mounted in the dwellings of "lovers" to slam the doors.

Do-it-yourself installation is carried out in several stages:

Assembly of the supporting structural element - the box.
Installation of the canvas, and then the box beam (a handle, hinges and other fittings are attached to it).
Aligning the box in the door and fixing it securely.
Canvas hanging.
Finishing of doors with platbands.

Types of interior doors

A conventional door block consists of two elements - a leaf and a box. The latter is made of hinged and feigned timber, as well as lintels. If you will be installing doors with a threshold, the box is complemented by a special bottom bar. The door leaf in most cases is hung on two hinges. There are systems with three loops, but they are used extremely rarely. The set of door blocks, as a rule, includes platbands. If the manufacturer does not provide any, you will need to purchase them separately.

In situations where the door frame is smaller in width than the door opening, you need to purchase extensions or trim the walls with flashings or slopes that are more elegant in terms of design. Here you need to know that professionals do not advise plastering slopes if you do the installation of structures made of wood materials (for example, MDF) with your own hands. Such doors are simply deformed after applying a plaster composition to them.

An excessively wide opening is often reduced with the help of wooden beam. Its dimensions should correspond to the "extra" width. Such a beam is installed from the side of the door pillar, where its hinges are located. The beam is attached to the rack with small cross-section universal self-tapping screws, and it is connected to the wall with anchors. Do-it-yourself installation of interior structures with your own hands is recommended after pre-finishing the premises (it is understood that you have leveled the walls, carefully and accurately puttyed them, and then plastered them).

Reducing the doorway with a wooden beam

In other words, the assembly and installation of doors is carried out after the completion of all, without exception, "wet" finishing work.

Otherwise, there is a high probability that the system may “float” from high humidity. Be sure to equip the rough flooring, as well as determine the thickness and type of finish floor that you will do. Without this, you will not be able to accurately mount the door frame to the height of the threshold. If you just decide to change the interior doors in a room where there are no repair work is not implemented, the latest recommendations are irrelevant.

It is very important to install the racks correctly. A door frame is attached to them. If you install it on crooked racks, the operational functionality of such a door will be minimal. Rack preparation is carried out as follows:

The upper parts of the racks must be cut with a hacksaw (it is better to take a saw with small teeth) and a miter box. This operation is easier to do if you have a miter saw.
By inside racks measure the required length (it consists of the lower gap, the height of the door leaf and the upper gap). The lower gap is usually taken about 1 cm, the upper one - no more than 0.4 cm. Prepare the second rack in the same way.
Now you start processing the lintel. Measure the desired length on the inside. The required length will include the width of the leaf, a small (about 0.4 cm) gap on the side where you will put the lock on the door, and another gap on the side of the hinges. Get the length (internal) of the lintel. Note - absolutely accurate.

Installation of interior door racks

Now you can saw off the ends of the lintel with your own hands (again, with a miter saw or a miter box). This procedure is done at a 45° angle. Next we do door hinges. Their installation should be done as carefully as possible. It is important to determine the exact value of their depth and the distance between the lower and upper edges of the door leaf. The scheme of work is as follows:

We measure on the rack (on the inside) from the top edge a distance of 20 cm.
We apply the loop to the selected area, outline its contour (use a regular pencil).
When folded, the hinge leaves a free space (gap) from the rack to the canvas of 0.4 cm. We calculate the installation depth of the fitting element, taking into account its thickness.
With a chisel (or better with a milling cutter) we make a platform for the loop.
Similarly, we determine the size and location of the installation of the lower hinge. But in this case, the value of the lower gap (1 cm) must be added to 20 cm.
Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply this design to the canvas and make marks about the areas where the hinges are located.
It remains to make seats for the loop elements.

You have accomplished a difficult task on your own. Now you can deal with the box and platbands. More on this later.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly and installation

Installing the box yourself will be quite simple if you follow the following workflow. You need:

Attach (strictly perpendicular) with a stand to the lintel. If you are installing an interior product made of MDF, in order to avoid cracking it, you must first make holes with a drill and only then install self-tapping screws. Important! Holes are made of a smaller section than the diameter of the hardware used.
Put the box in the opening, and then fix it securely using spacers and wedges.
Take the building level and align it along the horizontal and vertical plane of the structure. After that, feel free to use self-tapping screws.
Hang the door on the hinges. It can be inconvenient to perform such a procedure on your own, so call an assistant. After hanging, check the quality of installation, eliminate certain installation defects, if any.
Close the interior door, install spacers between the racks and the canvas suitable sizes. They will save the box from squeezing out when blowing foam.

The last step is to fill the gap between the wall and the door frame. When the foam hardens, the spacers will need to be removed. You just have to install the platbands with your own hands. Everything is simple here - you file an angle of 45 ° and mount the elements in their place. Fastening installed platbands it is recommended to perform: self-tapping screws; special nails (they are called finishing); on glue.

It is advisable to cover the tops of the self-tapping screws with decorative plastic caps. And nail heads are usually overwritten. Congratulations, you installed interior doors on your own, saving a lot of money on the services of specialists!