Decorative sockets made of plasterboard. Socket boxes and the secrets of their installation in drywall

One of the final stages of wall covering is the installation of sockets in drywall. In most cases, this operation does not take much time and can be carried out independently, without the involvement of third-party specialists. But at the same time, the installation of sockets and switches must be carried out according to certain rules - then the electrical network of your home will be quite reliable, and it will be very convenient to use.

In this article we will describe in detail the process of laying electrical wiring behind plasterboard sheathing, and also tell you how to install an outlet in plasterboard.

Preliminary stages of work

Wiring behind drywall

The installation of sockets in drywall should be planned ahead of time, even before the walls are covered with gypsum plaster boards. Before you begin installing sockets and switches, you need to connect wires to them. And this must be done before the wall is covered with plasterboard.

Wiring when sheathing a wall or erecting a plasterboard partition is done as follows:

• At the first stage, we assemble a frame from a metal profile and fix it to the load-bearing wall. The upper and lower parts of the frame are rigidly fixed to the ceiling and floor of the room.
• If we are making a partition, then on one side we cover the frame with plasterboard. We will use this layer of sheathing as a support when laying wires to the sockets.
• We are building a diagram of the future electrical network, marking on it the places where the wires pass, as well as the points at which the installation of switches and the installation of sockets in drywall will be carried out.
• In vertical profiles of plasterboard sheathing frames using a drill we make holes for laying the cable.

• The wires used for wiring for sockets and switches are placed in a plastic corrugated pipe and pulled through the holes drilled in the frame posts. The price of plastic corrugated pipes is low, so it’s not worth saving on them, especially since they protect the cable quite reliably from damage and moisture.
• The optimal cable for supplying current to sockets is three-wire double insulated(core diameter – 2.5 mm). Depending on the planned load on the electrical network, you can use wires with a different cross-section.

Advice! If the corrugated pipe with the wires laid in it is dangerously close to the screw, we either displace the wire or bite off the tip of the screw with wire cutters.

• To increase the reliability of the structure, we attach the cables inside the plasterboard wall sheathing to the frame using segments copper wire or plastic clamps.

After the wires are laid, you can sheathe the wall with plasterboard, having previously marked the cable laying locations on the diagram.

Choosing a location for a socket and switch

When choosing locations for sockets and switches, you need to be guided not only by the rules and building regulations, but also by the intended purpose of the socket. In other words, the outlet should be placed where it is convenient.

European building codes, which are practically generally accepted, recommend the following to us:

• The optimal height of the socket from the floor is 30 cm.
• The optimal height of the switch is 90 cm.

In most cases, this placement is truly convenient, but sometimes you have to deviate from these norms.

For example, sockets in the kitchen (usually two or three at a time) are usually installed directly above the countertop. This placement allows you to quickly turn on and off household appliances without bending over again.

In the same way, installing a high socket in the drywall behind an aquarium is justified: as a rule, several devices have to be plugged into this socket (filter, compressor, lighting), and it is better to place it higher so that the wires do not lie on the floor.

Installation of sockets and switches

Hole for installing a socket

So, the wiring has been laid, the locations for the sockets have been selected - it’s time to figure out how to install a socket in drywall. The instructions below are quite simple, and following them, you can reliably install the socket with your own hands.

First we need to make a hole in the plasterboard sheathing of the wall. We will insert a special plastic socket into this hole, on which our socket will be attached.

We make a hole in the drywall in this way:

• First, using the diagram we have drawn, we find the place where the outlet will be installed. Using a tape measure, measure the required distance from the floor and mark desired point on drywall.
• Using a level, mark the future hole for installing the socket, drawing a cross.
• To make holes in which the sockets will be installed in drywall, we use a drill with a special cutter attachment. You can see what such a nozzle looks like in the photo in this article.
• Having placed the tip of the cutter in the center of the cross we marked, we carefully make a hole. This process is described in more detail in a video, and you can see it on our website.

If you need to install several sockets in one place, it is better to make the markings before drilling the first hole. This way the nests made will be more neat.

Installation of a socket box

Socket boxes for plasterboard walls are equipped with four screws. Two of them are responsible for the locking mechanism, and two more are for fastening the outer metal lining.

We install the socket box as follows:

• Before inserting the socket into the drywall, we cut a hole for the wiring in the bottom of the socket box. We pull the wire laid in the casing into this hole, leaving a small margin outside.
• We insert the socket box into the hole made, making sure that it does not pinch the electrical wiring.

Note! The standard depth of a plastic box for installing a socket is 45 mm. If the distance between the drywall and the wall is smaller, you will have to make additional recesses in the wall material. This can be done before covering the wall with plasterboard, but then you will need to very accurately determine the location of the sockets.

• We check the installed socket box using a level, and if it is positioned horizontally, we tighten the screws responsible for fastening using a screwdriver.

Connecting the socket

The socket box is installed, all that remains is to connect the socket itself to the wires. But before installing the socket in the drywall, you need to perform one more mandatory operation, namely, check that there is no voltage on the output wires. This can be done using a special indicator screwdriver.

If there is no voltage, proceed to connecting the outlet:

• We disassemble the socket, removing the plastic decorative parts from it.
• We unscrew the screws on the terminal part of the socket, insert the wires into them and fix them. If we use a three-core cable, then we connect the ground wire to the middle contact.
• We insert the socket with the connected contacts into the socket box. The socket can be secured either using spacer “claws” or using fastening screws on the socket box.

• Before finally fixing the socket in the drywall, we check the reliability of the connection of the wires with the terminal part.
• We put on the socket frame, and then put on the protective cover. Tighten the fastening screw with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage the plastic of the socket.

Switch connection

Wiring a switch is as easy as making an outlet in drywall. For this:

• We make a hole in the right place, install a plastic “glass” in it and bring the wires out.
• We disassemble the switch, removing all the plastic parts from it. We should only have a metal frame with a terminal block left.

• We connect the wires to the terminal block, after which we fix the metal frame of the switch with mounting screws on the wall.
• We put plastic keys and a frame on the fixed switch.

In fact, installing sockets and switches in drywall is not difficult even for a beginner. You may have to work hard with the first socket, but then you can install sockets literally “automatically”. And you yourself will be surprised at how quickly you can complete the installation of the electrical network of your home!

The fastest and most convenient way. Drywall crowns are sold in almost all hardware stores and construction markets. The price of the set, depending on the number of blades, diameter and manufacturer, ranges from $2 to $30. The most popular sets with 7 blades with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm with one holder, cutting depth up to 18 mm. The price of this set is $2-5:

For holes of larger diameter (for example, for installing lamps), you can buy a set with blades with a diameter of 60, 67, 74, 81, 95 mm with a cutting depth of 32 mm. This set costs $5-8.

To drill a hole of the required diameter (or close to it), you must first remove all the blades, turning each one slightly clockwise and pulling it towards you, select the blade of the required diameter and insert it into place. Drilling takes from 3 to 10 seconds; it takes longer to select the blade. Marking and drilling are done with front side drywall. Holes can be drilled both on plasterboard sheets screwed to the frame and on sheets that are not secured in the designed position.

It’s very convenient, but it happens that the sets don’t have blades of the required diameter. For example, to install a socket box, the hole must be as precise as possible so that the socket box does not dangle later. In this case, you can use combined method: First drill a hole with a hole saw, and then adjust the hole to required sizes with a knife. How this can be done is shown in the video:

If you are only interested in drilling, then you do not need to watch the entire video.

However, you may not have a crown at hand, it doesn’t matter, there are other ways to make a hole in the gypsum board:

2. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Using a jigsaw, you can make a hole of any geometric shape and size, if necessary, get a hole as close as possible to a round one; the side surface of the gypsum board is sanded with sandpaper.

If you need to make a hole with a very small diameter (20-30 mm), then it is better to use a narrow saw for cutting holes in the chipboard. There are just limitations: you can’t make a hole on a glued gypsum board with a jigsaw, and if the distance between the base of the wall or ceiling and the front surface of the plasterboard sheet is less than the height of the jigsaw file at the maximum output of the file, then the jigsaw won’t help here either. But it’s not over yet, there are other ways:

3. Drill with a circular drill (nibblers) on the tiles - “ballerina”.

Actually, ballerinas are designed for drilling holes in ceramic tiles, but if you have one, you can easily use it, especially since you can set the hole diameter to the nearest millimeter. The price of a “ballerina” is not high - $2-10, which is comparable to the price of a set of crowns. Ballerinas look like this:

With a ballerina you can drill a hole even in something glued to concrete wall or a ceiling on a plasterboard sheet, since a ballerina drill usually has a pobedite tip. The only limitation is that the maximum diameter of the hole is limited by the ballerina's shoulder.

4. Using a hacksaw blade for metal.

This is the first improvised means. The blade is removed from the metal hacksaw, several small-diameter holes are drilled into the plasterboard and then the blade is inserted into the holes. To work with a hacksaw blade for metal, special hacksaw handles are sold:

If you need to make a lot of holes, then it is better to buy such a handle. The larger the hole diameter, the more convenient it is to work. This method has two limitations: minimum diameter the holes are 50 mm (you can, of course, cut a hole of a smaller diameter, but it’s easier to do this in other ways) and it won’t be possible to make holes in a gypsum board glued to a thin layer.

5. Drill with a drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 6-8 mm.

If you work with drywall, then you definitely have a drill and drill bits in the house. In this case, the drill replaces the router, so the diameter of the drill cannot be too small, otherwise the drill may break, and large diameter The drill does extra mechanical work, and it’s harder to hold the drill. This method is good because it is suitable for all cases, but you need to be careful when making a hole in this way in a gypsum board glued to the base. In order to make a hole of the required diameter (or dimensions if the hole is not round), draw the contours of the hole on the plasterboard sheet, drill the first hole from the inside of the line and, without turning off the drill, move the drill along the line (leaving an indent of 1 just in case -2 mm, if the hole must be very precise), it is advisable to hold the drill with 2 hands. If it is necessary to obtain a hole as close as possible to a round one, the side surface of the gypsum board is sanded with sandpaper.

6. Drill out with a drill.

The essence of this method is to make maximum perforation of the plasterboard sheet. Next to the contours of the hole, using a drill of any convenient diameter, many holes are drilled as close to each other as possible. After this, the middle is carefully knocked out, and the remaining teeth are removed first with a knife, then with sandpaper:

7. Cut with a knife.

The most difficult, time-consuming and dangerous method for both you and the gypsum board, but sometimes you have to use it. The hole is cut in 6-10 passes with a knife. The blade of the knife extends 5-8 mm (meaning a simple wallpaper knife); during the first pass, the knife is held perpendicular to the gypsum board. During the second pass, the knife is held tilted in one direction, and during the third pass, tilted in the opposite direction. Thus, in 3 passes, a groove is obtained along the contour of the hole with a depth of 2-4 mm. With subsequent passes, the groove deepens until the plasterboard sheet is completely cut through. If you do not use linings, then there is a high probability of the gypsum board breaking off.

8. Get a tattoo.

If you have children who are doing extremely poorly in school, do not be discouraged, and such children can be of great benefit. Take a meter from the preparation room - a thing similar to a compass, only with needles on both legs, and, setting the meter to the required radius, make punctures in the sheet every 2-3 mm. Using a knife, cut the cardboard on both sides along the contour of the hole. After this, it is advisable to place the sheet on supports so that there is no support under the future hole, but there is support next to the hole. Now, with a sharp blow of a hammer in the center of the outline, you can knock out a hole.

There are other ways, but I think these will be enough for you for the first time, if not, leave a comment, we will take it into account.

The article will address the following questions: preparatory work, choosing a location, cutting plaster, attaching the socket box, connecting and installing the socket in the drywall.

Popularity of drywall

Nowadays, plasterboard sheets are very often used for interior decoration and leveling the walls of rooms and creating partitions.

This material greatly facilitates finishing work, has a fairly large list of positive qualities, for which it has become widespread.

After fixing the sheets of drywall, it’s time to complete the next stage of work related to the electrification part - installing sockets and switches in the walls.

The installation work is not complicated, so it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to the help of anyone.

Features of choosing sockets and socket boxes

Successful execution installation work depends on the correct selection of everything necessary - the sockets and switches themselves, as well as special plastic mounting boxes - socket boxes (these elements are fixed into a hole made in the wall, and sockets are already installed in them).

Socket boxes manufactured for installation in holes in plasterboard walls differ from those installed in concrete and brick walls.

Their peculiarity lies in the presence of special presser feet mounted on screws.

By rotating these screws, you can move these legs along the body of the socket box.

As for sockets and switches, manufacturers now produce them according to a single standard regarding the size of the internal part that will be placed in the installation box.

And yet, when purchasing all the necessary elements, you should check their compatibility.

Required Tool

To carry out installation work, you will not need many tools:

• Drill or hammer drill;
• A special nozzle - “crown”, for making holes in drywall (diameter 68 mm);
• Screwdrivers;
• Pliers;
• Measuring tool (tape measure, ruler, level);
• Marker.

In some cases, you may need tools for cutting metal - a thin chisel, a hammer.

Choosing a location for installation

In the rules of the PUE there are no requirements for the location of sockets and switches as such. That is, you can arrange them at your discretion.

But at the same time, the choice of installation location depends on the wiring, which is carried out before attaching plasterboard sheets to the walls.

In general, it is necessary to determine the approximate locations of sockets and switches at the stage of laying the wiring.

In this case, the length of the output ends of the wires to which the sockets will be connected should be left with a reserve.

After all, it is much easier to cut off the excess than to build it up in order to supply power to the switches.

Despite the possibility of choosing an arbitrary location for installing sockets and switches, now many are trying to adhere to the so-called European standards, according to which the height of sockets from the floor should be:

• In ordinary rooms - 30 cm;
• In the kitchen (above the countertop) – 120 cm;
• In the bathroom – 60 cm;
• To connect washing machine– 100 cm;

Switches are installed at a height of 80 - 90 cm from the floor. But we note that these are only recommendations and do not require strict adherence.

When performing installation, first of all, you should still focus on ease of use and ease of access, and then on standards.

In addition, in some cases a non-standard position of the outlet may be required, for example, to provide power to a TV that will be mounted under the ceiling.

When choosing installation locations for sockets and switches, it is better to immediately make all the necessary markings on the drywall.

Moreover, if the floor is not yet completely finished and future installation is planned flooring, this should be taken into account when choosing the height of the installation site.

Making a hole

Having completed all the necessary marking work, you can begin cutting out the holes.

There is nothing complicated in this operation:

1. We install the prepared attachment on the drill or hammer drill;
2. Before starting drilling, you need to correctly position the “crown” relative to the place where the hole will be (to make it easier, you can drill the center of the future hole with a regular drill);
3. We cut out with a crown through hole in a sheet of drywall. When working with a drill and hammer drill, you should not create strong pressure, otherwise this may lead to the formation of torn edges of the hole, which will subsequently affect the installation work;

Note that you can make a hole without a crown, although it will be more difficult.

To do this, you can use two methods - cut it with a knife or use a drill with a regular drill.

But no matter which method is chosen, you first need to make additional markings to determine the dimensions.

You can do this:

1. Using a ruler and a marker, draw a cross on the wall, the crosshair of which will be in the center of the future hole;
2. From the center on each of the rays of the cross we measure 34 mm and make marks (the distance between two marks lying on the same line should be 68 mm);
3. We take the socket box and apply it with the back side to the wall, positioning it according to the marks;
4. We draw a circle around the socket box.

Thus we get required dimensions holes centered at the selected location for the socket.

You can make the work easier by using a drill with a drill bit. We use it to make the maximum possible number of holes along the circle marked on the wall.

And then we simply use a knife to cut the jumpers between them. All that remains is to trim the resulting hole with a knife.

In general, cutting a hole is not difficult, but quite often a variety of unforeseen situations arise that will have to be resolved.

READ ON THE TOPIC: How to install.

Difficulties that may arise and their solutions

One of the most common problems that arise when making a seat for a socket box is getting into the profile to which the plasterboard sheet is attached.

In this case, it will not be possible to install the mounting box, since its height is much greater than the thickness of the drywall.

That is, for installation you need additional space under the sheet so that the socket box goes all the way.

This problem can be solved very simply - using a chisel (chisel, screwdriver) and a hammer, we cut out the interfering section of the profile. On bearing capacity this will not affect the profile in any way.

The situation is worse if the drywall is glued to the wall without using a frame made of a metal profile (such installation also occurs, although it is rare).

In this case, you will have to make a recess in the wall using a hammer drill with a chisel or a hammer with a chisel.

Another situation concerns the installation of a block of sockets (several of them are located in a row, one next to the other).

For reliable fastening of each socket box, it is necessary that there are jumpers between the holes for them.

And this is where correctly executed markings will help.

It is done like this: select the location for installing the outermost socket, and mark the center of the hole.

Then draw a straight horizontal line through the marked point.

We make a few more marks on the line (according to the number of sockets in the block), observing specified length between points.

Everything is simple - the diameter of the hole is 68 mm, and between the centers we have 72 mm, and after cutting the holes we will get jumpers 4 mm thick at the very thin spot.

POPULAR WITH READERS: what it is, types, device and principle of operation, how to install and connect to mobile devices.

Installing socket boxes

After cutting the holes, we prepare and install the socket boxes. But before that, you need to make a hole in them for drawing the wiring.

But there are some nuances regarding the design of socket boxes.

In some types of boxes, the groove along which the foot moves has a smooth transition.

In the extreme position (near the bottom of the socket box), the foot turns out to be completely recessed into the groove.

But as you move (when you tighten the screw), due to the transition, it begins to protrude above the body, which allows you to fix the socket box (on the outside side, the edge around the circumference of the body acts as a stop, and on the inside there is a tab pressed to the sheet with a screw).

It is not difficult to secure such a socket box - we install it in the hole and fix it. In this case, the position of the paws does not matter.

The second type of box differs in that its groove is even along its entire length. But so that when installing the socket box in the hole, the tabs do not interfere, special niches are provided for them, in which they hide (by turning on a screw).

This type of socket box is mounted like this: we make sure that both legs are in the niches and install it in the hole.

Then, rotate the box so that the screws of the legs are positioned vertically.

In this case, the foot of the lower screw will come out of its niche (will protrude above the body).

If you tighten it a little with a screw, it will no longer be able to change its position.

To pull the second tab out of the niche, turn the socket box 180 degrees so that the top screw is at the bottom.

Installation of socket, switch

After this, you can install a socket or switch in the socket box.

The first thing to do when working with wiring is to turn off the power. If the end of the wire is very long, shorten it, but so that there is a margin left (so that it extends 10-15 cm out of the box). Then we strip the ends from the braid.

Remove the top decorative part from the socket or switch and put it aside for now.

Loosen the fastening bolts on the contacts. When installing and fixing the ends of the wires in the contacts, it is important not to confuse them.

This applies to three-wire wiring with a grounding wire (yellow-green).

For it, sockets and switches have their own contact (if there is none, then we simply insulate the grounding wire and hide it inside the box).

As for the phase and neutral wires, there is no difference to which contact each of them will be connected. The main thing when connecting is to properly tighten the fastening bolts of the contacts.

After connecting, install inner part sockets, a switch in the socket box and fix it with screws.

The socket box in the drywall has not yet been firmly fixed for one reason - when attaching the inner part of the socket (switch) to the box, they often warp a little, so after assembly they will stand crooked.

It is not advisable to loosen/tighten the fastening elements of the socket in the box several times.

And by turning the socket itself, you can achieve an even position of the switch, and then fix everything with paws.

All that remains is to reinstall the upper decorative part of the socket (switch) and check its functionality. But don’t forget, technology does not stand still; installation in drywall greatly simplifies everything. It turns out a little more expensive, but much simpler and more convenient.

The 68 mm diameter plasterboard bit is narrow-profile and is used for drilling holes intended only for installation of socket boxes.

Cutter for working with 6.8 cm socket box (solid)

The socket consists of two parts: a visible decorative part and a socket box - a terminal block hidden from view, which serves as a connection point for various wires to ensure safe electrification. It is round and is produced in certain standard sizes in diameter and height, the compliance of which is verified by GOST standards and norms.

There are three types of socket boxes:

1. for concrete, they are a plastic cup without fixing elements, installation is carried out in cement mortar;
2. for wood - made of metal;
3. for plasterboard, the body material is plastic, special vertical pressure plates, plastic or metal, are placed on the side walls; by means of these fixing elements, the socket box is attached to the back side of the gypsum board sheet.

The usual diameter of manufactured socket boxes is 68-70 mm, which requires the use of special drills for installation. As for the decorative part of the rosettes, it is also divided into subtypes:

• with a closing curtain to protect children from electric shock;
• with protection from moisture and other aggressive environments– suitable for installation in extreme rooms (kitchen, bathroom);
• equipped with a grounding contact.

Installation of a mounting box for a socket

Characteristics of crowns

For sockets, a special cylindrical drill (mill) is used with a cutting edge in the form of pointed teeth placed at a certain angle at the end. In the center of the device there is a drill around which the crown is placed. First, a drill penetrates the material being processed, fixes the nozzle in a given position and performs alignment for the cutting edge. This shape is optimal for efficient drilling and durability of the crown.

To install socket boxes, a crown is used, the diameter of which is 68 or 70, although the size range can vary from 33 to 150 mm. The length of the tool for installation work on installing an electrical terminal block is 60-65, although nozzles with a depth of 30 to 80 mm are available.

Crowns are divided into types:

• solid - consist of one thin-walled metal glass with teeth;
• collapsible - are a structure made of a universal disk on which several glasses of different diameters are placed in the shape of an unfinished cylinder.

Bimetallic cutters are also produced, which, in addition to processing fragile materials, are suitable for drilling metal and steel with sheet thicknesses of 1 mm or more. Popular manufacturers that produce 68 mm crowns include the brands Bocsh, HSS, Sigma, MTX, etc.

The Karat series cutter (Bosch) is used complete with an adapter and a centering drill, which allows you to process plasterboard walls, marble and wood. The HSS bit (Makitta) chambered for 13 mm is suitable for processing surfaces made of gypsum plasterboard, plastic, plywood and chipboard. Allows you to make holes in the wall with a depth of 3.2 cm. Equipped with a countersink.

Crown 6.8 cm (collapsible)

Installation methods and types of tools for its implementation

There are three ways to install socket boxes:

1. linked to a profile;
2. without connection to the frame;
3. installation of a socket block.

Before choosing the installation method, prepare the tools, in addition to the crowns and socket boxes, use a drill, a screwdriver and the outer part of the socket.

Additionally you will need:

• building level;
• ruler or tape measure (to control the distance between block socket boxes);
• pencil for marking;
• a construction vacuum cleaner, which is used when making holes with a drill in drywall, so that less dust collects and does not clog the lungs.

For precise marking, a laser level is used, which will allow you to carry out work with minimal deviations in calculations.

Type of marking made using a level

Profile-linked installation

This type of installation is the simplest. It applies if there is metal carcass, and on sheets of drywall, you can confidently determine where the profiles are located based on the marks left by the heads of the screws. There is no risk of snagging wiring or getting into the middle of the profile when making holes, which guarantees safe installation.

Stages of work:

• markings are carried out for the location of sockets (a horizontal and vertical line is drawn at the building level, the intersection of which indicates the location of the center of the future socket);
• a cutter with a diameter of 68 mm is put on the drill;
• a hole is made;
• take a socket box, break out the plug on the side walls for laying the power cable;
• a wire is threaded into the holes from the former plugs;
• the socket box is inserted into the plasterboard wall and secured to it with clamping paws using a screwdriver;
• wiring is connected in the terminal mounting block;
• for a while finishing works the electricity is turned off, the hole is covered with masking tape;
• Upon completion of all work, the outer part of the socket is put on.

If the sheets of drywall are already plastered and it is impossible to visually determine where the metal profiles or conductive cable are located, they resort to using a conventional magnet, which they lean against the surface of the gypsum board and make the necessary notes. You can also cut holes on the gypsum board sheet even before the stage of covering the frame.

Layout of the mounting block for the socket in a sheet of plasterboard

Installation of a block socket

Block sockets are called sockets that consist of several terminal blocks for simultaneous connection to a 220 V network, the Internet, TV, etc.

Installation nuances:

• the distance between the centers of block sockets should be 72 mm;
• calculations are transferred to the wall using a level;
• The cups of the socket boxes are connected to each other by C3A3 cable or “butterflies”, which are taken with a margin of 2 cm and assembled into a block;
• under level control, circles are cut out of the plasterboard wall, to which the block is applied and the correct calculation of the recesses is checked;
• the resulting holes are connected to each other with a chisel;
• the block is inserted and fixed to the wall with clamping bolts;
• Cables are routed between the socket boxes.

Connecting a block socket

Additional Installation Requirements

To ensure that the installation of socket boxes is carried out in accordance with fire safety regulations, is distinguished by quality and accuracy, adhere to the following rules and recommendations:

• installation of electrical wiring must be completed before the start of the stage of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets; for these purposes, it is preferable to use a non-flammable flat cable of the VVGng LS type, which is placed in a corrugated sleeve with a self-extinguishing probe and secured with staples to the side shelves of the profile, the wiring should go to the location of the socket box;
• To prevent the material from cracking, when working with a crown, it is not recommended to press hard on the surface of the drywall sheet;
• installation of the socket box should be carried out 30 cm from the floor, before finishing work with gypsum boards begins;
• the dimensions of the recess between the original wall and the drywall must be 45 mm or more, otherwise the socket box will not fit through the hole made and will have to be further deepened;
• if there is gypsum board between the frame and the wall wooden floors or to increase the level of electrical safety, it is recommended to treat the edges of the installed socket box with gypsum plaster.

Sealing a rosette with gypsum plaster

You can find out how to install a socket using a bimetallic crown, the diameter of which is 68 mm, in compliance with installation standards, using the example video below.

Installation without reference to a profile

Sometimes it happens that the calculations are made incorrectly and after drilling in the hole for future sockets, a profile is visible, due to which it is impossible to push the block through and securely fix it in the recess. In this case, the crown is replaced with an ordinary metal knife or chisel and the holes are made manually, removing 5-10 cm of the visible profile.

Incorrect installation, in which the profile prevents the placement of the socket box in the prepared hole.

The frame of the structure will not suffer from this, but the sheet of drywall itself may be deformed, and due to the inconvenient viewing angle there is a risk of injury. When cutting the profile, it is recommended to wear special installation gloves - they will protect your hands from unwanted cuts.

In contact with

IN modern construction interior decoration and leveling walls are very often performed using plasterboard sheets. In addition, from this material you can quickly create internal partitions. Thanks to many positive qualities, drywall has become widespread for repair and construction work. The installation technology consists of several stages. This includes electrical work, including the installation of sockets in drywall, as well as switches and other electrical installation products. This operation is not particularly difficult and can be done with your own hands without outside help.

Preparatory work

How to make a socket in drywall? The design of plasterboard walls allows the installation of almost any type of sockets, both single and with two or more sections. However, the installation cannot be completed using the classic method. For these purposes you will need a special one. It must be fireproof, since plasterboard sheets are flammable materials. With the help of a socket box, the installation of sockets and switches in drywall is greatly facilitated.

The point where electricity comes out through the socket and is considered the most dangerous element of the entire structure. Therefore, self-extinguishing plastic is used to make such socket boxes. If the outlet gets hot during operation, the heat generated will not transfer to the drywall. This ensures fire protection.

It is necessary to select a socket box taking into account the location of the plasterboard sheets relative to the wall. For the most effective solution The task of how to install a socket in drywall will require an individual choice, especially if the selected sheets are mounted close to the wall. Each socket box has pressing tabs that can be moved apart using screws. When purchasing, it is advisable to check their performance. The configuration and dimensions of the socket boxes differ from the standard models used for ordinary walls.

There are differences between installation boxes for different purposes. Typical socket boxes are mounted inside the wall in a pre-drilled recess and then fixed with mortar. Models intended for installation in drywall are installed in the hole, after which they are pressed against inside sheathing with fastening tabs moving along the screw thread. After this, the socket in the drywall is securely fastened.

How to make a hole in drywall for an outlet

Before drilling a hole into which the drywall socket box will be mounted, it is necessary to accurately determine and mark the location of its future location. There are standards used by specialists during installation. For example, it is 30 cm, and from the floor to the switch - 90 cm. These dimensions may vary depending on specific operating conditions. Ease of use must also be taken into account, especially in kitchens and bathrooms where Appliances and equipment. It is also necessary to take into account the wiring diagram laid in each room.

The location finally selected for installation is marked with a pencil or construction marker using building level. After this, you can cut a hole in the drywall for the outlet. The very first hole is drilled in the center of the mark, after which the cutter is used. If you don't have a power tool, you can use a construction knife to cut the hole. The socket box is first applied to the wall and outlined along the contour. Flaw this method consists of uneven edges and the formation of large chips.

Therefore, the most ideal option When you need to make holes in drywall for sockets, an electric drill with a special bit with a diameter of 68 mm is considered. Exactly the same cutters are used when installing spotlights in drywall. The procedure is very simple. First, the attachment is installed on the drill. Next, a hole is drilled using a pilot drill. After this, the main hole is cut using a crown. Strong pressure is not required, since a high-quality crown can easily cut any drywall.

Installation of socket boxes and sockets

After the hole is drilled in the marked location, you can begin installing the socket box. A chamfer along the entire circumference is first cut with a sharp knife. This procedure is a prerequisite for high-quality installation, since the socket box has an external edge up to 1.5 mm thick.

If there is no chamfer, the edges of the side will protrude beyond the surface level. This difference will have to be compensated with a large amount of putty, which may result in an unsightly mound. If a chamfer is cut, the side easily fits into it and becomes flush with the plane of the wall.

Next is the direct installation of the socket box, which will be needed to attach the socket to the drywall. The plastic plugs located along the contour should be broken off and the ends of the connected wires inserted into the holes. After this, the product is inserted into the hole and tightened with adjusting screws. They are quite long, so it is recommended to use a screwdriver instead of a screwdriver. The screws are tightened until the fastening tabs are pressed against the inside of the plasterboard sheet.

The next step is to install the socket in the drywall yourself. To do this, unscrew the two remaining screws on the socket box. The decorative cover is removed from the socket, after which the previously routed wires are connected to it. The entire structure, along with the wires, is installed in the socket box and secured with unscrewed screws.

The decorative trim is put on after completion finishing walls The technology for installing a single socket is quite suitable for installing an entire unit. You will need the same set of tools, the required number of socket boxes and sockets themselves.

How to install a socket block in drywall

First you need to measure the height at which the socket block is supposed to be installed and make the necessary marks. They act as beacons for drawing a horizontal line using a level. After this, the centers of future holes are marked, as well as their locations among themselves. Care is required here, since shifting one mark will shift the centers of other circles. After marking, you can attach the socket to the drywall.

A bit of the required diameter is inserted into the electric drill, after which holes are drilled according to the marks. All socket boxes are assembled into a common block, the plugs are broken out of them, and the wires are brought out into the resulting holes. The assembled block is inserted with a certain force; on each glass you need to bend the latches at the top and bottom so that the structure can stand on seat. Then all installed socket boxes are fixed in the wall using adjusting screws. Direct installation into drywall is carried out after finishing work.

There are no strict restrictions on the number of sockets. However, experts recommend installing more than four sockets in one row. In addition, the installation of sockets in drywall must be carried out according to certain rules. For example, the distance between the centers of the holes should be 71 mm. First, the first point is measured, and after it all the others. Before securing the outlet to the drywall, you should remove the thin barriers between the holes. This is done using a hacksaw, after which the block easily falls into place.