Interior decoration of the steam room and sink: how to finish, what options are there, examples with photos. Safety and beauty: how to finish a sauna stove with decorative materials How to decorate a steam room near the stove with your own hands

During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the furnace is heated up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures, their charring begins. And there is already close to the fire! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and casings from non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed?

The need to install protective skins and screens does not always arise. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest combustible surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays scatter, weaken, and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer damage it.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick oven (laying a quarter of a brick) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to the metal furnace (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal furnace lined from the inside with brick or fireclay, the distance decreases to 0.7 m.

Thus, compliance with fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established according to the norms must be reduced with the help of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the furnace

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the furnace and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens are metal and brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the furnace, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one or another side of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially made with protective screens in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Due to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily attached to the floor with bolts.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the furnace will be in a casing of brickwork. In another case, a brick screen is a wall that separates the furnace and the flammable surface.

For laying a protective screen, a full-bodied fireclay brick is used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (thickness 120 mm). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be made a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the heat-insulating properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small holes are left in the lower part of the shield (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between brick wall and a stove.

Brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the furnace. Sometimes laying is carried out to the very ceiling.

The brick screen is not installed close to the walls of the furnace, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the furnace to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible cladding for walls

The walls adjacent to the red-hot walls of the furnace are subject to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option #1 - reflective skins

Sheathings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a stainless steel sheet. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It is better not to take risks and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirror surface contributes to the reflection of heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing infrared rays back into the steam room, turns hard radiation into softer, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation for stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Possesses the increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet refractory heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of sheathing using a metal sheet is such a “pie”: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow you to form ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between wooden wall and the minimum stove, then the lining is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is aged in decorative style, refractory lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tile is laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of fired clay. Differs in durability, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - also made of clay, outwardly similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including greens and blues that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front surface.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tile can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. In the color scheme - all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fixing refractory tiles directly to the walls will not have the effect of thermal insulation. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, tiles are used only as an element of a protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - fireproof sheet material- tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the furnace.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in sheathing:

• Refractory drywall (GKLO) - drywall, supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformations.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite plates are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (SML) - a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties, does not collapse under the influence of water and temperature changes.

Protective sheathing with obligatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low coefficient of heat absorption, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of lining allows you to mask the protective "pie" to withstand the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

How to protect the walls of the bath from the heat of the oven - technologies and materials

When planning the construction of a bath, it is important to remember about creating security inside the room. First of all, it concerns fire safety. By melting the sauna, the stove can be heated up to 300-400°C, which is much higher than the combustion temperature of wood, from which the sauna is most often built.

All the heat from the stove is released into the room, however, the main heat is absorbed by the nearby walls, which leads to their charring, as well as ignition. It is extremely important to avoid such consequences, so in this article we will describe in detail how to isolate the stove in the bath from the wall. See also: "Heat sauna stoves - types and design features."

Do you need protection in your bath?

Protecting the walls of the bath from the heat of the furnace is not always required. For example, you can provide a distance between the wall and the stove, which will allow you to achieve fire safety without additional protection. The fact is that at a certain distance, the IR rays emitted by the furnace begin to scatter, which significantly reduces their impact on nearby surfaces.

The distance from the stove to the wall in the bath varies depending on the type of stove:

• 0.32 m or more - distance for a stone oven with a quarter-brick laying;
• 0.7 m or more - the required distance between the wall and the metal furnace lined from the inside with fireclay or brick;
• 1 m or more is a safe distance for an unlined metal furnace.

At first glance, it seems that creating such a distance is much easier than installing additional protection, but this is fundamentally not true. Keeping a safe distance is advisable only in large steam rooms, but in small private baths, the stove, including indents, will occupy most of the room, so it will be much easier to use insulation.

Protective screens

Speaking about fire safety in the bath, first of all, it is worth highlighting the protective screens that are used to isolate the stove in the bath from the walls.

Protective screens are special panels made of non-combustible materials (metal or brick), which significantly reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Most often, this method of insulation is used for metal furnaces. See also: "How to make a screen for a sauna stove - options and solutions from an expert."

Metal protective screens

In the construction market, metal protective screens made of steel or cast iron are the most common. Many manufacturers of iron furnaces provide thermal insulation for their products, providing them with special casings.

Choosing protective screens is quite simple, because depending on the insulated side of the oven, you can purchase a front or side panel. Installation of such screens will also not cause difficulties, because the manufacturer provides special legs that are easy to attach to the floor.

Next, it is worth talking about the installation rules. The panels themselves are installed at a distance of 1-5 cm from the furnace, however, a distance is also required from the adjacent wall. Protective screens reduce the radiated temperature to 80-100°C, which allows them to be installed 50 cm from a parallel wall.

brick screens

The fencing of the stove in the steam room can also be made of brick. A brick screen can be installed on all sides of a metal furnace, forming a protective sheathing. Also, such a screen can only be installed between the combustible surface and the furnace, representing a protective wall.

Having decided to lay such protection, use a full-bodied fireclay brick, for which you can use clay or cement mortar to bind. Usually, half-brick (120 mm) masonry is used, however, due to a lack of material, quarter-brick masonry (60 mm) is suitable. Using the last laying method, remember that the thermal insulation properties of such a screen are reduced, so the distance to the wall should be increased.

Such finishing of the iron furnace in the bath is also carried out in compliance with some rules:

• In the lower part of the shield, it is necessary to provide special openings that will ensure air convection between the furnace wall and the brick;
• The height of the brick wall should exceed the height of the oven by 20 cm, but often it is led to the very ceiling;
• Observe the distance between the oven and brick screens of 5-15 cm;
• There should also be a distance of 5-15 cm between a flammable surface, for example, a wall and a brick protection.

Flame retardant wall cladding

The second option for protecting walls from fire is special sheathing, which is made from non-combustible materials. The working element of this protection, which reflects infrared rays dangerous for combustible surfaces, is a reflective material, for example, stainless steel.

There are also options for decorative finishes that preserve the aesthetic purity of your bath. One of the advantages of this method is that protecting the walls in the bath from the stove will not only avoid fire, but also keep the heat inside the room. See also: "Finishing the stove in the bath - the choice of material for decorative cladding."

Reflective wall cladding

You can assemble this version of the protective sheathing yourself. To do this, you need a non-flammable thermal insulation material, which will be discussed in more detail below, as well as a stainless steel sheet.

Stainless steel can be replaced with a cheaper option - galvanization, however, when heated, it can release harmful substances, so we strongly do not recommend using it. Getting started, fix the insulation on the wall, after which, close it with a metal sheet.

To make such thermal insulation for the bath furnace as productive as possible, polish the metal surface. This will allow you to better reflect the IR rays back into the steam room, moreover, the reflected rays will be better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation, you can use the following materials:

• Basalt wool absolutely safe for the bath. It retains heat well, in addition, it has a high hygroscopicity and does not burn at all;
• Basalt cardboard- a good option for a bath. It is a thin sheet of basalt fiber, which perfectly retain heat and do not burn;
• Asbestos cardboard- a strong and durable heat insulator, which is also suitable for a bath;
• Minerite for a bath It's also great material. Non-combustible plates are specially made for shielding hot surfaces in baths and saunas;

Before sheathing a wall near the stove in the bath, familiarize yourself with the correct technology for its construction. The most important thing is the order of installation and compliance with the gaps.

The ideal design has the following structure:

1. Wall;
2. Ventilation gap of 2-3 cm;
3. Insulation 1-2 cm;
4. Stainless steel sheet.

Remember that the total distance from the wall to the stove must be more than 38 cm. For fixing, use ceramic bushings to help form ventilation gaps. If the distance between the wall and the furnace is minimal, then it is necessary to use two layers of minerite plates, between which a gap must also be left.

Sheathing with cladding

This option is practically the same as the previous one, however, if you don’t know how to decorate the wall behind the stove in the steam room so as to preserve the beauty of the room, while creating safe conditions then this option is definitely for you. Protect the walls by using heat-resistant decorative materials laid on top of the insulation.

Finishing around the stove in the bath can be done with the following materials:

• Clinker tiles made from baked clay. It is characterized by high strength, heat resistance and durability. One of the advantages of this option is also a rich color palette, which includes not only black and white tones, but also blue or green colors;
• Terracotta tiles also made of clay, but it is inferior to the previous version in terms of density and the number of possible colors;
• Talcochlorite is a good option for lining for a bath, made of rocks of green and grayish shades. It has good heat resistance and strength;
• Tiles- ordinary ceramic tiles, characterized by good heat resistance and a pattern on their surface;
• Porcelain stoneware- heat-resistant tiles imitating natural stone or wood.

The tile will not dissipate heat, protecting the walls from fire, so it cannot be mounted directly on the wall. We recommend using the following structure:

1. Wall;
2. Gap for ventilation;
3. Refractory material;
4. Tiles (the distance from the tile to the oven must be at least 15 cm).

Such a “pie” will allow you to create a reliable protection of the walls from heat, while maintaining the beauty of the room.

One of the following options can be used as a refractory material:

• Fireproof drywall- made from the same materials as ordinary drywall, but with the use of fiberglass;
• Minerite slabs for a bath - absolutely not exposed to moisture and heat.
• glass-magnesium sheet- plates made of fiberglass and magnesia binder. Excellent resistance to heat, moisture and noise.

This option will perfectly protect your bath from the possibility of fire, as well as insulate the room, while maintaining its aesthetic component.

Building a bath is only half the battle. It is important to properly equip it from the inside: finish, install a stove, arrange furniture, etc. High-quality interior decoration will make bathing procedures truly sincere and as pleasant as possible.

The bath traditionally has several rooms with different indicators humidity and temperature, respectively, there are a number of restrictions for the use of some finishing materials.

Steam room. High temperature and humidity.	1. Tree. Finishing with a pair of wood clapboard is considered a classic. This material is best suited for wall, floor and ceiling decoration. It requires processing with special impregnations (lacquer and paint not on a natural basis, wood in a steam room cannot be covered). 2. Stone. It is often used for facing the wall behind the stove, at the same time being a fireproof cut. The solution is practical, durable, quite original. 3. Salt panels. Ideal material for medical procedures. Illuminated salt blocks will pleasantly transform the steam room. But it is better to use this material in saunas with electric furnaces, because. direct contact with water and excessive moisture adversely affect the material. 4. Brick facing. It can be used for facing the wall behind the stove. Pairs well with wood paneling. 5. Porcelain stoneware and ceramic tiles with a non-slip surface for finishing the floor and/or wall behind the stove. Recommended as a topcoat for insulated screeds. On the wooden base it is better not to lay tiles in the steam room. 6. Mosaic. Traditional material for finishing hammams. In Russian and Finnish baths, it is not often used.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum. 3. PVC panels for wall and ceiling cladding. 4. Ceramic tiles are glossy (slippery). 5. Ceiling tiles of all types. 6. Plaster.
	1. Porcelain stoneware and anti-slip tiles, mosaic. Recommended in combination with an elastic anti-fungal moisture-resistant grout. 2. Natural or artificial stone. 3. Wood impregnated with antiseptics and water-repellent compounds. The service life in the shower is quite short. The best type of wood for finishing a shower room is larch. 4. Moisture resistant drywall. It is used for the construction of partitions, as a base for laying tiles. Drywall can be used to protect walls made of glued laminated timber from moisture. It is permissible to paint GVL with moisture-resistant paint, but this option is short-lived. 5. PVC panels. A good option for finishing walls and ceilings, provided that waterproofing is properly organized. Finishing wooden walls with plastic panels is permissible only after complete shrinkage. 6. Moisture resistant plaster. Finishing can hardly be called budget, additional waxing is required. It is possible to bring to life unique patterns by choosing the right structure and shade of the composition.	1. Parquet and laminate. 2. Linoleum.
	Any available materials are suitable for finishing.	The wall bordering the steam room is not recommended to be finished with wood or plastic. It is better to use facing brick, stone, decorative plaster.

Consider several ways to finish the bath inside.

Wall and ceiling lining

An example of finishing the ceiling of a rest room with clapboard

Lining is used for wall decoration very often. These can be expensive panels made of cedar, larch or more budgetary ones made of aspen, linden. Often, the owners of the baths combine different types of wood, the finish is unusual and very beautiful. It is better to use pine lining for lining the dressing room; in a steam room this is not the best choice.

The combination of lining from different types of wood for wall and ceiling decoration

They fasten the lining vertically or horizontally, and also lay out patterns from the rails, fixing is done to the beams of the crate. Be sure to use foil vapor barrier. But such a finish is already difficult to surprise someone.

If you have enough free time and material, a share of diligence and accuracy, pay attention to herringbone lining installation method.

Step 1. Calculation of lining. Calculate separately the area of ​​each wall in the steam room (it is necessary to multiply the length of the wall by its height), sum up the results. You can not subtract the area of ​​the doorway, as it is necessary to provide for a supply of material, taking into account trimmings.

When buying a lining, pay attention to the label - manufacturers indicate the number of panels in the package, as well as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe finishing material. Divide the total area of ​​your steam room by the area of ​​one pack to get the number of packs you will need to finish.

If there is no information on the label, you will have to measure the length and width of each panel, excluding the width of the tenon, and then calculate the number of panels to finish. It is better to purchase material with a margin.

Important! Do not use lining with knots to finish the steam room. The density of knots is higher than the density of solid wood; when heated, the knots will fall out.

Step 2 Preparation of lining for installation. Unpack the purchased lining and store it in a heated room. You can start finishing in two days.

During this period, prepare workplace and tools:

• electric jigsaw or circular saw;
• level, plumb line, tape measure, protractor, square, pencil;
• finishing nails, hammer;
• wooden plinth for floor and ceiling;
• mallet.

Step 3 It is better to fasten the lining with the spike up. Based on this, we make the layout of the panels.

The herringbone can be angled up or down.

The photo shows the herringbone laying method with the angle pointing down.

The cut must be made at an angle of 45 degrees. The ends of the panels should be on the bars of the crate. For convenience, you can make a template and markup on it.

Step 4 We begin to fasten the lining from above. We fix the first panel with finishing nails through and through. If the bath is wooden and has not yet shrunk, it is better to leave a gap of 3-5 cm between the ceiling and the sheathing, which will be closed with a plinth.

We insert the second panel with a spike into the groove of the top panel, precisely combine the ends of both panels. Fastening is carried out with a clamp. We insert the kleimer into the groove, drive three finishing nails into the holes of the kleimer through the finisher. On one panel you will need at least two kleimers, depending on the length of the lining.

We continue fastening from top to bottom until we reach the floor. It is also worth leaving a gap of up to two centimeters here. Lastly, we fasten the triangles cut from the lining from above and below, fixing them with nails through and through.

We mount the next row in the same way, but we change the direction of the lining.

After installation, we close the panel joints with a thin wooden plinth, fixing it with finishing nails strictly vertically.

There is another way to lay the "Christmas tree". The technology resembles parquet laying. The lining is sawn into rectangular planks. Laying is carried out with a shift equal to the width of the panel, excluding the spike. Fixation is carried out with clamps or building brackets.

Herringbone wall cladding method

The method of mounting lining "rhombus"

As a crate, it is better to use not timber, but boards. This will simplify the installation process. The method is applicable for both wall and ceiling decoration.

Step 1. It is necessary to draw a rhombus with angles of 30 and 60 degrees. Between the angles of 30 degrees we draw a straight line, breaking the rhombus into 2 triangles. We cut the paper blank, transfer the drawing to the lining so that a spike is located on two faces of the rhombus. We cut out the workpiece. We connect two triangles to make a rhombus. We fix the rhombus with finishing nails through to the crate (two nails for each triangle, we drive in the carnations not completely).

Step 2 We take the whole lining panel. We apply to the rhombus, connecting its spike with the groove of the board. On the board we make markings for cutting.

We lead a straight line to the spike. On the spike of the lining, we draw a line perpendicular to the board itself, continuing the pencil markings on the other side of the panel spike.

We cut the board according to the markup. To do this, turn the lining over with pencil markings down, put the edge circular saw to the line marked on the spike. Turn on the saw and make a cut.

We take the second board lining. We apply it with a groove to the rhombus (on the edge where there is no spike). We carry out marking for cutting, observing the accuracy of the angles. We check with a protractor and a long ruler. We cut according to the markup.

Advice! It is more convenient to connect the initial elements on a table or on the floor, pinning wooden elements finishing nails to a piece of FSF plywood.

Step 3 We continue to work. Haste is not allowed. It is important to accurately mark and cut, join the corners. We mark or number each element, so that in the future it would be more convenient to mount it on a wall or ceiling.

Step 4 When decorative element will reach right size, it is necessary to remove the cloves and disassemble all the panels that were assembled on the table.

We assume that the insulation and vapor barrier have already been completed, the crate is full. Using a level and a tape measure, you need to find the place where the center of the rhombus will be. Accordingly, the center can only be located on the plane of one of the bars or boards of the crate. We pin the central rhombus to the crate, driving the finishing nails into the spike. For convenience, it is better to use a doboynik so as not to break the lining with a hammer.

We attach the following lining boards to the central element, adjust them with light blows of the mallet and fix them in the same way.

Assembling a rhombus on the ceiling. When the decorative element is fixed, further sheathing can be carried out parallel to the fixed panels or perpendicular

The joints of the rhombus can be closed with a thin wooden plinth, nailed through with finishing galvanized nails.

On a note! By placing lining panels in different directions, combining lining from different types of wood, you can create an interesting pattern that will turn a simple steam room into a work of art. The wood of the "elite class" is considered to be cedar, fir, ebony and mahogany, rosewood, Canadian hemlock, African oak, pear and elm, eucalyptus.

When the cladding is complete, saturate the wood with a protective compound.

Video - Finishing the premises with clapboard, the result of laying boards in different directions

Video - Clapboard ceilings

Mosaic wall decoration

If the walls of the bath are wooden, of course, it is impossible to lay tiles or mosaics on them. Moisture-resistant drywall will act as the basis for the mosaic. This material is quite solid, does not deform in conditions of high humidity, does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, that is, it is completely safe.

The frame for drywall in its structure is similar to the frame for lining. For its arrangement, we will prepare a timber 50x25 mm and 75x25 mm antiseptic, galvanized self-tapping screws, perforated corners. We will markup using a tape measure, a plumb line and a level.

The beam must be antiseptic on its own or purchase material that has already been processed. Store timber indoors

Step 1. We fasten the beam under the ceiling with screws (if it is made interior partition, then the upper beam must be fixed to the ceiling). Using a plumb line, we make markings on the floor for attaching the lower beam. They must be in the same plane.

Step 2 We fasten the lower beam to the wall with wood screws.

If the walls are made of blocks or bricks, fastening is done with dowels through pre-drilled holes in the wall.

Step 3 We measure the distance between the upper and lower bars, this will be the length of the vertical racks. We cut the timber with an electric jigsaw or saw. We install the first rack in the corner of the room. We attach the rack to the upper and lower bars with perforated corners and self-tapping screws.

Step 4 At regular intervals, we similarly install the following racks. We check that the racks are in the same plane.

Step 5 We saw the timber to a length equal to the distance between the uprights. We fix intermediate jumpers between the racks with corners and screws.

Frame made of metal profiles

Step 1. Using a laser level, we check the verticality of the wall. We set the level on the floor, measure the distance from the wall to the beam in different places with a tape measure.

Step 2 If the differences are significant, knock down the protrusions with a perforator. We remove debris and dust. We repeat the operation of checking the plane again.

Step 3. Using the rule and a pencil, draw a line on the floor (we retreat from the wall by about one and a half centimeters). The profile will be located along this line. We fasten the profile PN 50x40 to the floor with dowel-nails.

Draw a line along which the profile will be located

Step 4 We insert vertical guides (PN 50x50) into the lower fixed profile and fasten them to the walls (in the corners of the room) with dowel-nails 6x60 mm.

Step 5 We fix the PN profile to the ceiling. The top and bottom profiles must be in the same plane. If the length of the room exceeds the length of the profiles, we make a join, that is, we insert one section of the profile into another with an overlap of up to 40 cm.

We insert the profile into the vertical guides. Be sure to check the horizontality of the upper guide, for this we insert a vertical profile in the center and apply a level.

If necessary, we slightly shift the upper profile and only after that we fix it with self-tapping screws to the ceiling. We install fasteners with an interval of 50 cm.

Important! Laying of electrical wiring, pipes and other communications must be completed before the start of finishing work.

Step 6 Install intermediate profiles. We fix the ends at the top and bottom with self-tapping screws with a press washer. The distance between the profiles is taken taking into account the dimensions of the drywall sheet. For example, from the extreme rack we fix the next two at a distance of 40 cm, and set the fourth rack so that its center is at a distance of 120 cm from the first (angular) profile.

Step 7 We check the position of the vertical racks with a level and begin fixing the profiles with suspensions.

We insert the suspension between the vertical profile and the wall. With a marker, mark the points for drilling holes. We drill holes with a puncher, insert dowels into the holes, apply suspensions and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We bend the shelves of the hangers, screw in the self-tapping screws "bugs" to attach the hanger to the profile.

First we fix the suspensions in the center of the profiles, then the rest. The vertical step between the suspensions is approximately 50-60 cm.

On a note! So that during the installation of the suspensions, the vertical profiles do not move or turn along their axis, we fasten them with a horizontal profile, screwing it with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Step 8 Install jumpers. We mark profiles for cutting. According to the markup, we cut the profile with a grinder.

We stretch the cord horizontally and, according to this marking, we fix the jumpers with self-tapping screws with a press washer.

Jumpers installed. They are necessary if the size of the drywall sheet is less than the height of the walls

On a note! Use magnetic screwdriver bits. This will simplify and speed up installation.

Installation of drywall sheets on the frame

Consider an example of mounting on a metal profile frame. Installing sheets on wooden frame performed similarly, the joints of the sheets should be located in the center of the profiles. Do not allow direct contact of drywall with the floor; plastic linings will be placed under the sheets. It is also not necessary to fasten the sheets tightly end-to-end, it is better to leave a gap of 1 mm between the edges for the convenience of puttying.

For cladding, we use sheets of moisture-resistant drywall with a thickness of 12 mm. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws 25 mm long. The step between the screws is approximately 15-17 cm. We screw the screws in a checkerboard pattern.

First, we fix the sheets along the perimeter, then along the line of vertical profiles. We draw a vertical line according to the level and fasten along this line. Hats of self-tapping screws are sunk into the sheet by 1 mm.

Puttying seams

The joints of the sheets must be puttied using a mesh and moisture-resistant putty. If the edges of the drywall have a hand-cut edge, chamfer it at a 45 degree angle with a sharp knife. A primer is applied to the joints. The mesh is sunk into the putty mixture. After the putty has dried, the seams are rubbed with sandpaper.

Mosaic wall decoration

To fix the mosaic on the walls of the bath, it is better to use moisture-resistant glue, for example, Ceresit CM 115.

Step 1. Preparing glue.

The room temperature should be between +5 and +30°C. Recommended water temperature for adhesive mixture from +15 to +20°С.

Add the dry mixture gradually to the water. For 1.5 liters of water, 5 kg of the mixture is required. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer or a drill with an appropriate nozzle. The speed of the drill or mixer should not exceed 400-800 rpm. After the first mixing, we pause for 5 minutes and repeat mixing.

Advice! You should not prepare a lot of glue at once, the time of its application is limited to 20-30 minutes. It is impossible to dilute the finished glue with water. If it thickens a little, you need to mix the mixture well.

Step 2 We put glue on the wall. We begin to glue the mosaic from the upper left corner. We collect a little glue with an ordinary spatula and put the mixture on the edge of a notched trowel. We distribute the glue on drywall evenly.

Step 3 We unpack the mosaic, take one fragment and press the grid to the glue. Gently straighten so that there is an equal distance between the elements. We roll the entire fragment with a roller or a wide rubber spatula.

It is important to keep the laying level so that the rows are even. The area of ​​the applied glue should not greatly exceed the size of one fragment.

You can only cut the mesh, the pieces of ceramics or glass themselves are not recommended to be deformed.

Step 4 After 24 hours (or more, depending on the speed of drying of the glue) after laying the mosaic, we grout. To fill the joints, we use a moisture-repellent compound with antifungal properties, for example, Ceresit CE 40 Aquastatic.

For 2 kilograms of dry mix you will need 640 ml of cool water. Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer at a speed of up to 800 rpm. Pour the dry mixture into the water gradually. After mixing, take a five-minute break and repeat the kneading of the grout. The finished solution must be used up within two hours. It is unacceptable to exceed the specified amount of water so that the properties of the grout do not deteriorate.

We apply the grout to the mosaic with a rubber spatula, distributing it with diagonal movements. After 15-20 minutes, remove the excess with a damp (but not wet) sponge or rag. Remove the remaining grout from the surface of the mosaic with a dry rag.

Mosaic can decorate a shower room or dressing room completely or combine this finishing material with ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware.

Soapstone is highly valued by bath attendants for beneficial features. The stone accumulates heat well, cools down for a long time, and the vapors emanating from soapstone have a healing effect on the body.

Soapstone is used to decorate stoves and walls in a steam room, but nothing will stop you from decorating with tiles from this stone, for example, a rest room in a bathhouse or a shower room.

Soapstone is available in various variations - these are tiles with a smooth or textured surface, mosaics and even bricks. As additional elements, manufacturers offer baseboards, borders and corners made of soapstone. If the wall in the steam room will be finished, you will need heat-resistant glue for stone (used when lining stoves, fireplaces), and when lining a shower room, it is better to use moisture-resistant mixtures.

The surface on which the tiles will be laid must be flat and pre-primed. Tiles are laid from the bottom up, observing the horizontal rows. The glue is applied with a notched trowel, the tiles are gently pressed against the wall. Laying is possible both end-to-end, that is, without gaps between adjacent elements, and for jointing. The second method is suitable for tiles of the correct shape and with smooth surface. Tile cutting is performed by a grinder with a diamond blade. Grouting is done with a heat-resistant mixture for stone.

The combination of soapstone tiles with different textures looks quite extraordinary.

Combination of smooth soapstone tiles and broken stone tiles

Video - Extraction and processing of soapstone

Video - Technology for gluing decorative stone

Remember - the interior decoration of the bath should be not only exclusive, but also practical. It is important that finishing materials do not contribute to the development of mold and fungus, are easy to clean, are safe for health and are as durable as possible.

The steam room is the most important room of the bath, because there is no bath without a steam room. Traditionally around this small room for convenience, additional spaces are designed, which can be quite a lot: a sink, a shower room, a relaxation room, a pool, etc. Each bath room can have its own unique and attractive design.

When starting to finish the hottest and most humid room, you need to remember that the work will be not just an external decoration of the walls. The complex solves a huge set of tasks:

• walls are being prepared;
• thermal insulation is applied;
• thermal insulation materials are protected by vapor barrier;
• external finishing is carried out;
• design developments are brought to life, which give the interior completeness and aesthetics.

Finishing the steam room is divided into several important stages and takes place sequentially. It is important to remember that the result depends not only on the correct execution of the work, but also on the reasonable selection of materials. So the first two important steps are:

• the choice of a safe insulation that will be absolutely harmless with temperature changes;
• selection of the most suitable material for finishing, taking into account the operating conditions of the room.

The choice of insulation and vapor barrier

Baths are built from century to century, the ancestors used natural materials for their insulation: felt, hemp, tow and even moss. Such materials are absolutely harmless, affordable and as environmentally friendly as possible, they do not interfere with air exchange, which is also very important.

But technology has gone far ahead, so it is advisable to pay attention to modern thermal insulation. For warming the steam room, you can choose mineral wool, in the manufacture of which rock waste is used as a feedstock. Such material is produced both in rolls and in plates. It is resistant to the appearance of microorganisms, environmental, durable.

Basalt wool is especially popular. It is simply indispensable for thermal insulation of those places of the wall and ceiling, which are located next to the stove and chimney. Basalt wool does not burn, never rot, withstands the highest temperatures (1500˚C) and does not emit any toxic substances, which is very important when it comes to the location of the steam room.

As for vapor barrier materials, foil films become the most effective at 100% humidity and maximum temperatures.

The choice of material for finishing

When choosing a material for decoration, of course, they take into account that the steam room should look aesthetically pleasing, but operational qualities are considered the main ones:

• hygiene,
• resistance to high humidity and high temperature,
• safety and complete absence of toxins,
• durability and reliability.

Attention! In the production of a steam room, it is forbidden to use materials such as plastic, linoleum and various kinds of wood boards. Even with good ventilation, toxic substances emitted by artificial materials can seriously harm health.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room are lining, wooden boards, natural stone and ceramic tiles.

Wood is a traditional material in our latitudes; it is used to build Russian baths and Finnish saunas. Wood easily absorbs moisture and gets rid of it, has a rare aroma and other unique qualities. Traditions include the use of hardwoods, as they do not emit resin when heated.

1. Larch, birch and linden are suitable for finishing the steam room. These types of wood are popularly considered to give strength, such a tree does not rot or crack.
2. Clapboard made of poplar and aspen, thanks to its unique properties, will give relaxation.
3. Ash has special decorative qualities, its core is incredibly beautiful, this breed is very durable.
4. The alder finish guarantees not only reliability, but also the absence of odors.

Deciduous species dry out quickly and therefore the fungus does not threaten them. Quality lining has a minimum number of knots that can be harmful to health when touching a naked body.

Attention! Pine wood is considered the least suitable option. It releases resins that can cause severe burns if it comes into contact with the skin.

If there is no other choice, be sure to check the pine boards for the presence of so-called "tar pockets".

The decoration of baths and saunas with valuable abacha wood, obtained from trees growing in the tropics of Africa, is considered incredibly rich and expensive.

Preparation for finishing work

Installation work begins after the supply of electricians, when all other necessary communications have already been laid.

For finishing you will need such materials and tools:

• building level,
• bonding device,
• perforator,
• screwdriver,
• hammer,
• lining under the crate,
• kleimers. and self-tapping screws.

Before installation, the lining is adapted to the microclimate of the steam room. To do this, they bring the wood into the room and carefully lay it out, they start work only after a few days.

The surface of the walls should be treated with antifungal antiseptics.

To avoid heat loss, even the smallest cracks are sealed.

The slope of the wall is determined by the level. If the walls in the steam room have differences, then they must be leveled with wooden spacers so that the mounting rails do not subsequently appear at different heights.

Installation of the crate and insulation

№ p/pIllustrationComment

1		To protect the insulation from moisture, a vapor barrier should be installed on both sides. Therefore, first, a membrane is mounted on a bare wall, which was previously leveled.
2		And then a crate of timber is attached. Well-dried beams of 60×27 mm and 50×25 mm are used without knots, cracks and obvious wood defects that reduce strength. The distance during installation should not be more than 1 m. It is great if it is approximately 0.6 m.
3		First, guides are mounted on the wall according to the level. After that, according to the principle of racks, the extreme bars are installed first, the position of which must be carefully checked with a plumb line and level.
4		Fixation is carried out on special corners, which will ensure loose installation of the structure. The gap that is formed between the floor plane and the rack provides for the "movement" of the tree during deformation, which makes it possible to avoid unpleasant consequences. This also solves the issue of additional ventilation (when finishing the steam room, the gap is closed with a plinth). After installing the rack bars, grooves are cut out in them, which will serve to attach smaller bars to them. This method of fastening is called floating, it will help to avoid any deformation, which is very important for a hot and humid room. Then the entire crate is adjusted to the level and fixed, if necessary, linings are used.
		For semicircular or curved surfaces, trying to adhere to a given shape, they use not a whole bar, but parts of it.
5		A heater is placed in the constructed frame. Over time, mineral wool can slip or deform, so it is fixed with polypropylene twine.
6		Then, with a rough side, a second layer of vapor barrier is placed to the insulation, it is fixed with a stapler.
7		So that the tree is not subsequently damaged by pests, it is necessary to carry out a special treatment with an antifungal primer, which is allowed to dry.

Choosing a wood preservative

The acquired wood protection composition must solve a whole host of issues. They need to protect the finish from fungi, prevent decay and the appearance of harmful bacteria, pathogens and insects. You should not buy the cheapest composition, you need to focus on quality. When buying, you should carefully read the instructions and get full advice from the seller. Of the domestic means of protection, Neomid has proven itself well. Depending on the composition developed by the manufacturer, they can be fire-retardant and protect the affected areas of the tree. "Neomid 200" is designed specifically for the steam room and protects the wood from decay.

100% natural linseed oil is also used as the most powerful natural antiseptic. This is probably the most successful ecological choice.

Linseed oil can be applied to all types of wood. It is deeply absorbed into the structure and emphasizes the natural texture. Due to the high degree of penetration, this product makes the lining and beams protected from water and condensate, prevents the occurrence of fungi, blue stain, bark beetles and bacteria. Special wax for saunas is very popular.

Treating wood with an antiseptic

For work you will need:

• short-haired brush or brush,
• White Spirit,
• warm water,
• soap.

The surface to be treated must be clean and dry. Before processing, the wood is sanded with sandpaper, after which the composition will lie more tenaciously.

It is necessary to impregnate the timber and lining from all sides, after which the tree should dry out (48 hours). It is recommended to heat linseed oil TM "GreenTherm" before use in a steam bath to 40 ° -45 ° C. It can be applied to the surface with a brush or a rag.

Attention! The brush should only be shorthaired. They don’t paint with oil, they rub it in, so a brush with long hair is not suitable for work.

Excess oil, which the wood has not absorbed, is removed from the surface with a rag and the next layer is applied. Between the application of 2-3 layers, technological breaks are observed for at least 12 hours. Especially carefully process the ends of the boards and timber. Drying takes 48-120 hours (2-5 days) at an air temperature of 20 ° C and a relative humidity of no more than 65%. Excess oil in areas of low absorption will slow down the drying process, as will low temperatures.

It is known that the lining can be positioned as you like, in accordance with the artistic design intent. But when finishing a steam room, functionality comes to the fore. The lining, fixed vertically, heats up unequally, because at the top of the room - the highest temperature, and at the bottom - the lowest. With repeated heating and cooling, which is uneven, the boards will very quickly "lead" high humidity. The logical choice is the horizontal placement of the boards.

If the lining is fixed horizontally, then the board heats up evenly along the entire length, bending deformation does not appear. Of course, different trim elements, depending on their location, will be in completely different conditions, but this will not affect the overall appearance of the skin at all.

Lining fastening

Before starting work, you need to measure the steam room and cut the lining of the desired height.

The choice of type of fastening depends on the air temperature in the room.

If the room is not cold, then you can use clamps, not nails. Finishing nails are visible on the front surface, so you can get burned from them. Kleimers are completely invisible, while the lining fixed by them can be dismantled and mounted several times.

The lining of the steam room is made from the stove and bypasses the room around the perimeter. The correct mounting direction is from top to bottom.

The board is fastened with a groove down, the next element is attached to it, etc. The boards of the lining are assembled "groove into thorn", like a designer.

Each subsequent board is inserted into the groove of the element located above.

When the water in the steam room is on the wall, it will drain freely, without flowing into the gaps between the boards, this will protect the wood from decay. The bottom boards are attached to the beams with self-tapping screws, in which case they can be easily dismantled and replaced without disassembling the entire sheathing structure. On the doorway, the trim is nailed using bars.

Attention! A ventilation gap must be left between the lining and the vapor barrier foil, otherwise the wood will begin to rot on the reverse side or mold will appear. Water often collects on the floor, so the lining should not come into direct contact with the floor either. One sensible solution is to lay out a row of tiles where the walls meet the floor.

Video - Finishing the bath

Choice of tiles or stone

For a good bath, with the smell of natural wood, steamed broom and aromatic oils, tiling with natural stone is suitable: jadeite, serpentinite, soapstone and serpentine.

These natural materials withstand the highest temperatures, have excellent strength, safety and durability. They can be used both for flooring and for laying a heat-resistant screen next to the stove. Ceramic decoration is also traditional. Since ancient times, tiles made of clay have been considered the standard of environmental cleanliness; they do not emit any odors and fumes at all. For finishing the steam room, products with high heat resistance and the lowest moisture absorption coefficient are chosen. To avoid injury, it is advisable not to lay glossy tiles on the floors, it is better to use ceramics with a rough surface.

Video - Terracotta tiles in the bath

Tile installation

For an area of ​​about 6 square meters, you need to prepare:

• level and tape measure
• 6 square meters ceramic or stone tiles,
• three containers of heat-resistant mixture for gluing Terracotta tiles,
• one pack of Terracotta grout,
• drill for stirring with a nozzle,
• construction gun,
• hammer,
• putty knife.

Attention! Heat-resistant glue from the Terracotta company is used in those areas where the temperature will not exceed 400 ° C. When laying tiles in the firebox area, it is necessary to take heat-resistant mastic, it is used in places where heating is up to 1100 ° C.

First, prepare the base. The walls are well leveled, waterproofing is laid, then a mesh, then a cement mortar is applied and leveled.

Done on the floor cement strainer, taking into account the fact that the tiles need to be laid with a slight slope and organize a drain. Twine or fishing line is pulled along the perimeter of the floor or wall, and it will be possible to check the correct installation.

Before starting laying, ceramics are placed in water for 10 hours.

In the production of a heat-resistant screen, stone and ceramic tiles must be fixed using heat-resistant mastic. It should be mixed well, the solution should have the consistency of thick cream. If the mastic is liquid, sand should be added to the composition. Laying is done from the bottom up, each row is leveled.

To ensure the presence of seams, you can use finely chopped drywall instead of crosses. When arranging a drain hole on the floor, the corners of 4 tiles are cut.

The floor tiles are mounted on glue with sand, glue without sand can shrink. All other rows are placed on the level already created with a bias.

On the reverse side of each tile, the mortar is applied in such a way that it protrudes slightly on the sides when the ceramic is pressed to the floor. Then it is seated with a spatula.

For seams, heat-resistant grout "Terracotta" is used, which can withstand temperatures up to 400 ° C.

The white powder composition can be tinted with mineral pigments. It is poured with water and mixed with a mixer. After that, the solution can be filled into the tube of the gun, the nozzle is inserted into the seam and the grout is squeezed out so that its height is equal to the level of the tile.

Attention! Grout should not get on the outside of the decor. If it does get on the surface, you need to wait 2 hours and only after that it is easy to remove the hardened fragment.

A day after all the work was completed, it is already possible to carry out the first firebox.

Video - Laying tiles with a slope under the drain

Video - Finishing the steam room

Since ancient times in Russia, the walls of the baths were insulated exclusively with natural materials: felt, linen and moss were used, which are occasionally used today. But any natural insulation has its drawbacks - birds and mice like to take it away, and the very insulation of the walls in the bath in this case requires special skill. Much better than modern synthetic materials - more durable and no less warm.

Of course, how to insulate the walls of the bath seems to be a simple question, but in fact there are many nuances here. And the more you know about it, the warmer and safer your bath will be.

Inside the bath, for reasons of safety for human health, it is better to insulate only natural materials- for example, mineral wool. And it will be protected from moisture by heat-reflecting waterproofing films sewn up from the eyes with clapboard.

Features of wall insulation from a log house

It would seem, why in log structures, wall insulation - after all, when laying the bath, it looks quite tight? The fact is that such a building material as a log house is characterized by shrinkage, which causes serious gaps. And through them, cold air penetrates directly into the steam room - which is absolutely not in favor of either health or finances in terms of excessive fuel costs. Therefore, such a bath needs to be insulated, and the most effective way is an interventional caulk.

All that needs to be done is to lay out the insulation during the construction of the log house, and at the end of the construction process the joint of adjacent logs or beams. After that, the fibers are stuffed with a hammer and caulk, and the seams are treated with a sealant.

Technology of the process of insulation of frame, block and brick walls

But the insulation of the walls inside the bath from the frame is more intricate - here you already need your own methods. After all, such a design cannot withstand high loads and special weight, and therefore everything must be calculated, first of all, from the technological side. Those. insulation can only be used with light weight. How about the styrofoam outer insulation simply indispensable for block structures - it is not afraid of water, is lightweight and is attached with ordinary building glue.

The very insulation of the walls from the inside in the bath looks like this:

• Step 1 Creates a frame on a load-bearing wall.
• Step 2. The walls are sheathed with insulation.
• Step 3. Waterproofing materials are attached to the insulation - a foil layer or at least a plastic film. They need to be laid with an overlap, and all joints should be sealed with thin slats.
• Step 4. Everything is sheathed with boards or clapboard - that's all.

As an option - use special PPU plates.

Wall insulation from the outside - how to wrap a bath in a "fur coat"

It is necessary to insulate the bath not only inside, but also outside - in order to fully protect it from external cold and significantly reduce fuel costs. And high-quality external thermal insulation is a significant reduction in fuel consumption, humidity control and a guarantee against mold and unpleasant odors. After all, the main task of external insulation of the bath is the shelter of building structures, protecting them from contact with cold air and precipitation.

Next, how to insulate the walls in a brick bath and different kind blocks? The answer is simple: you need to create a good outer protective layer. The easiest way is to install a ventilated facade. Everything is very simple: a protective layer of waterproofing is applied, and then the wall is sheathed with siding, clapboard or even simple wooden boards.

But as a heat insulator for such a “pie”, the good old mineral wool is most suitable: environmentally friendly, fireproof, soundproof and has low thermal conductivity. The very process of warming looks like this:

• Step 1. Brackets are attached, which are made in the form of squares. Between them - a step one centimeter less than the width of the insulation mats.
• Step 2. Mineral wool is inserted - between the squares, which must be acquired elastic, able to withstand significant pressure.
• Step 3. The remaining joints between the plates are glued with construction tape and filled with adhesive.
• Step 4. The walls are covered with a rolled waterproofing agent, and it, in turn, is fastened with thin slats.
• Step 5. Now - the installation of guides, which are designed to hold the insulation and serve as a support for the cladding.

By the way, universal materials have already appeared on the modern market that perform two functions at once - insulation and waterproofing. For example, foil foam is foamed polypropylene, which is coated with aluminum foil and metal-coated levsan. It withstands temperatures up to 1500 degrees and creates a really effective warming of the bath.

Finishing- the final stage of construction. It is wrong to include work on insulation in it. That's when it comes to facing floors, walls, ceilings, installing doors and windows, painting surfaces, then this can be called finishing. We need to somehow define terms if we want mutual understanding.

This article will focus mainly on interior decoration. steam rooms, but the finish will also be partially affected washing. If the site has thematic articles that reveal a particular issue on the subject, read it, there will certainly be helpful information, and for your convenience, we have made links.

Steam room design

If it's about finishing options for finishing the steam room in the bath, then it would be worthwhile to classify them somehow and talk about them from different points of view. That is, you can talk separately about floors, walls, ceilings, doors and windows, or you can talk about materials. This is what we will try to cover below.

Floor

In the steam room, the floor comes in three versions:

• tree;
• tile;
• concrete.

The latter option is generally not intended to be walked on with bare feet, but in rubber slippers or on ladders, people walk on such a floor. We mention it here only for the sake of completeness. Although, if you paint it with something waterproof... In general, be that as it may, there are three working options for installing floors in the steam room. The wooden floor can be torrential or dry, you can read about the features of both options.

We will not touch on how to make this or that floor, we are only interested in what it is and what it looks like in the end.

poured wood floor- these are boards fixed on logs without docking. The gap between adjacent boards is up to 1 cm.

dry floor, on the contrary, is a very tightly joined boards, most often tongue-and-groove.

Either floor can be painted after installation is completed. acrylic varnish, or sauna floor impregnation. This will make the floorboards water repellent and the floor itself more durable.

Tile is also rightfully present in the steam room, because no one wants to change the floors every 5-7 years, as it should be with the pouring option, and the dry floor can also deteriorate - it’s still a tree, but it’s not particularly friendly with water (except species such as larch).

IMPORTANT! The main argument against a tiled floor is that you can slip on it. But there are enough tiles on sale that have a rough surface that prevents slipping.

Concrete… If the screed is made of high-quality concrete, then water will not harm it for a very long time. But it will also look like the decoration of the steam room in the bath was left halfway. To give some kind of completeness, we would advise painting it with paint for concrete pools - everything will somehow be prettier.

How to finish the walls and ceiling

We've united for a reason walls and ceiling into one category - they are usually made from the same material.

If regarding the floors there was still some variability in the choice of material for finishing them in the steam room, then for the walls and ceiling in a standard bath there is only one material - tree. And it is right. Firstly, it is a tradition, secondly, it is useful, and thirdly, it is pleasant and beautiful.

But in general, the design of the steam room in the bath, if we talk about the walls and ceiling, comes down to the choice lining. True, some leave walls made of timber or a log house uncovered, but this is if the timber or logs are thick enough or the winters are moderately frosty, which is why it is not cold in the steam room.

But there are a lot of types of lining so that those who do not want the standard option have plenty to choose from.

ATTENTION! To begin with, let's clarify that imitation of a bar and a blockhouse (imitation of a log house) are also varieties of lining. After all, this word means, in essence, just a profiled board, and it can have many different profiles.

euro and non-euro

First of all, it varies tenon-groove connection design. Such types of lining are built on the differences between them, such as standard (according to Soviet GOST), eurolining, "American".

Secondly, they may differ profile front side slats. The presence and absence of chamfers, the degree of rounding, various protrusions and depressions create all the variety of surfaces finished with these boards.

It is also worth taking into account the presence or absence of ventilation grooves on the back of the lamella. They were not in the Soviet standard, but they are needed, and eurolining has them.

ADVICE! For those who want to get creative with the interior decoration of the steam room in the bath, we can recommend combining several different profiles, for example, smooth with a chamfer or without a chamfer and one of the carved profiles.

You can read more about the types of lining and plating methods in this one.

Of course, there is also the decoration around the stove in the steam room of the bath, and it is made, in particular, from tiles - ceramic or natural stone. But we will talk about this in a separate chapter below.

Doors and windows

For doors and windows, the most important thing is not so much design as the right choice. wood.

After all, you can’t put a plastic door in a steam room, except perhaps glass, which are made for the sauna, of course (that is, with a healthy gap under the door, necessary for the ventilation of the sauna). But if the box is filed, then you can put a glass door in the Russian bath. And you won't have problems closing the doors.

But if the door is still made of wood, then high humidity will affect it primarily change in the volume of wood, that is, it will change the dimensions of the doors. And they will periodically not fit into the opening.

Here, in order to avoid such problems, you need to choose a tree that is least deformed by moisture. And it's very affordable - it's a common Linden. By the way, it is worth making not only doors, but also shelves from it, and someone will prefer a fake lining. The properties of wood will be discussed below.

We separate inside the steam room

Since buildings come from different materials, the owners are interested in whether there is any difference in how to finish the steam room in the bath, say, from brick or foam concrete. Basically, there are no differences even at the level of the device of the insulation cake, and even the finishing does not depend on what the walls of your bath are built from.

However, options do exist.

Interior decoration in a bath from a bar or a log house

bar or log- a material that in itself has excellent decorative qualities, so there is no point in hiding it under the skin, unless it is arctic cold in your area, that is, if the thickness of the log or timber is enough to keep warm.

In this case, the main concern of the owner will be joint insulation between logs or beams, their sealing(which will be discussed separately). In addition, finishing works include protecting log walls from various misfortunes (fire, water, insects, fungi and bacteria) and identifying the decorative properties of wood - both are done using impregnation.

BUT! in the steam room protective measures limited to an antiseptic on the lower crowns and impregnation for the walls as a whole, which will protect them from water.

A well-sanded log has a beautiful "moire" pattern that can be made more visible with varnish or impregnation. There is a site on our website that talks about paints and varnishes acceptable for processing steam.

Finishing with clapboard in a bath of aerated concrete, foam concrete, brick, frame

Finishing the sauna steam room, built from the materials listed in the title, in the vast majority of cases will be reduced to sheathing clapboard. This is the easiest way to make the interior "wooden". In addition, the lining is convenient and available material, and the difference in profiles gives the owner the freedom to choose according to their tastes.

Baths not built of wood are accepted insulate. In this article, we will not describe the heat-insulating cake - you can read about it in this one on our website. However, spoilers: methods of heat-insulating finishing of a steam room in a bath made of aerated concrete, foam concrete, etc. are the same. And lining is the final stage of this finishing.

The lining is attached to the counter-lattice. There are several ways to secure it inconspicuously. Previously, this was most often done with finishing nails through the groove, but this is hard work, especially when compared with the modern method of attaching to staples or nails using an air gun through clamps. As an option - you can mount on self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT! Kleimers do not replace fastening with nails or staples, they only simplify it. Nice and handy addition.

Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the method of fastening the lining with the help of clamps:

Regarding the finishing of the steam room with a clapboard, it is worth saying one more thing: there are two mounting options - vertical and horizontal. Accordingly, the counter-lattice must run in a perpendicular direction.

Since we are talking about a humid and hot room, it is worth noting that vertical fastening of the lining is not optimal. Each individual lamella in this arrangement is moistened unevenly, which leads to stresses inside the wood. In the future, it may crack.

In the same time horizontal fastening makes the dampening of the lamellas more uniform. The main thing is not to forget when attaching that the groove should be on top, and the spike should enter it from below. Then the water will not flow into the castle.

In addition to what has been said, the described types of lining installation have another feature: vertical fastening visually makes the room appear taller and the horizontal lower.

Options for washing and steam rooms: materials

Let's briefly go over the materials suitable for finishing in the washing bath and steam room.

Wood

In the photo: finishing the steam room of the bath with a tree (lining)

For the floor, you can use more resistant rocks, for example, larch. Conifers should not be used because of the resin they contain, which flows out when the temperature rises. But on the floor, the temperature is usually low, so there are no restrictions.

However, it should be said that lindens and aspens low rates of resistance to decay and bioinfection (for example, by fungi). Therefore, we recommend that you still additionally protect the surfaces of this wood with impregnations and varnishes.

V car wash there is no point in using a tree, unless it is a design decision. In this case, it is worth recommending just coniferous- They are more resistant to water.

A rock

An option for how to finish a steam room in a bath is stone tiles. Of course, we are talking only about partial finishing, for example, near the stove (more on that below).

What types of stone are best suited for wall decoration in a steam room? You will be surprised, but there are practically no limits th - the main thing is that it should not be rock salt, for example. But pink Himalayan salt is often used as an interior decoration. Of course, it will not dissolve as quickly as a soup pot, but it has the same composition as salt in a salt shaker.

The wall behind the stove, of course, heats up, but the stones are quite capable of enduring such temperatures without harming themselves. But the situation will change if you decide to overlay the stove with the same stone. The temperatures are different there. And you should focus on at least those stones, in the lining of which ready-made stoves are sold, for example, talcomagnesite .

Alternatively, you can trim part of the steam room not with smooth tiles, but with chopped ones. pebbles or cobblestones, which are mounted on the solution with the convex side up. It turns out pretty nice decor. As you can see, even street boulders can come in handy.

In the photo: the interior decoration of the steam room of the bath with stones around the stove

V car wash stone can be used, but this is rarely done, because it is easier and cheaper to cover the walls and floor with finished ceramic tiles.

Tile

The tile in the steam room is used either on the floor or on the wall behind the stove. As for the floor, rough tiles behave best here, for example, metlakh. It can generally be recommended for wet rooms. But all varieties of smooth glazed tiles should not be considered as a floor covering for a steam room.

V washing it is also better to use rough tiles on the floor, and for walls ... here, in general, you know better how sober visitors will wash in your washing room. If not really, then give up smooth tiles there, eliminating unnecessary opportunities to get injured.

In the photo: finishing the shower room of the bath inside with tiles

sealant

Special mention is made of such finishing material as sealant for a steam room in the bath.

Sealants in a steam room can only be used in two cases: if it is log bath and needs to seal the joints between the logs, as well as to seal the cracks in the logs themselves, and the second option is to seal the joints, for example, foam glass, if used as heat insulator.

In the first case, we can recommend special sealants for wood, which have a certain elasticity, because the tree tends to constantly change volume under the influence of moisture. In addition, it is worth asking the sellers which of the wood sealants withstand the temperature of the steam room well (name the numbers at which you are used to steaming).

We came across a report from one sauna owner who praised wood sealant. Perma Chink, which he used for seams and Check Mate to seal cracks. However, we cannot say with certainty that this was not promotional material.

As for the sealant for the heat insulator, then you need to take silicone without impurities, for example Ottoseal S 73.

Finishing around the stove

The space around the stove needs a special finish for the reason that the proximity of the hot stove to the combustible material of the walls (the same lining) can lead to fire.

Refractory board for wall decoration when installing a sauna stove

Therefore, a heat-insulating material is usually placed on the wall, for example, minerite or superisol(mounting on ceramic bushings is desirable). To reflect heat, you can attach a sheet of stainless steel.

Tiles at the stove

If the walls are not made of wood, you can protect them with heat resistant tiles. Since tiles are used for lining stoves and fireplaces, you can find many varieties on sale, of which the seller will choose the right one for you.

Of course, stove tiles are more than suitable for wall decoration, but they can be more expensive, so it is worth measuring the heating temperature of an object located at the same distance that will separate your stove from the wall.

And one more thing - you need to take into account the fact that in the baths on the plot in winter, with a long non-use, the temperature can be minus.

Some types of tiles are not designed for a sharp change in temperature when melting a bath - this issue should also be clarified with the seller. If you choose the wrong tile, it will crumble.

Photo

Finishing the steam room of the bath

Interior decoration of the steam room and washing room together

Finishing the steam room like a sauna inside

Finishing baths and steam rooms semi-antique

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During the kindling of the bath, the surface of the furnace is heated up to 300-400°C. At the same time, it begins to emit infrared rays and itself becomes a source of heating. The running heat is distributed throughout the steam room, but first of all it hits the walls adjacent to the stove. If the walls are wooden, then under the influence of high temperatures, their charring begins. And there is already close to the fire! The only truly effective way to insulate wooden walls from heat is to create protective screens and casings from non-combustible materials in the bath.

When is protection needed?

The need to install protective skins and screens does not always arise. If a fireproof distance is maintained between the stove and the nearest combustible surface, additional protection is not needed. At this distance, the IR rays scatter, weaken, and the amount that the wooden wall receives can no longer damage it.

It is believed that the safe distance from the wall to the brick oven (laying a quarter of a brick) is at least 0.32 m, from the wall to (not lined) - at least 1 m. For a metal furnace lined with brick or fireclay from the inside, the distance is reduced to 0.7 m

Thus, compliance with fire distances is more possible in large baths, where the issue of saving space is not relevant. In family steam rooms, where every centimeter of space counts, installing a stove 0.3-1 m from the nearest walls is impractical. In this case, the safety distances established according to the norms must be reduced with the help of screens and skins.

Protective screens near (around) the furnace

Protective screens are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the furnace and reduce the intensity of thermal radiation. Screens are metal and brick. As a rule, they are used for metal furnaces.

Method #1 - metal screens

The most common protective screens are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the furnace, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one or another side of the furnace, you can purchase side or front (front) screens. Many metal furnaces are initially made with protective screens in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens reduce the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100°C and, accordingly, reduce the fireproof distance to 50 cm. The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installing protective screens is not difficult. Due to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily attached to the floor with bolts.

Method #2 - brick screens

A brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of a metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a masonry casing. In another case, a brick screen is a wall that separates the furnace and the flammable surface.

For laying a protective screen, a full-bodied fireclay brick is used. The binder is cement or clay mortar. It is recommended to lay in half-brick (thickness 120 mm). But, with a lack of material, it is possible to allow the wall to be made a quarter of a brick (60 mm thick), although in this case the heat-insulating properties of the screen will be reduced by half.

Small holes are left in the lower part of the shield (sometimes with furnace doors) for air convection between the brick wall and the stove.

Brick walls of the screen must end at least 20 cm above the top surface of the furnace. Sometimes laying is carried out to the very ceiling.

The brick screen is not installed close to the walls of the furnace, the optimal distance is 5-15 cm. The acceptable distance from the brickwork to the flammable wall is 5-15 cm. Thus, the use of a brick screen allows you to reduce the distance from the furnace to the wooden wall to 22-42 cm (oven - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - brick 12 cm - ventilation gap 5-15 cm - wall).

Protective non-combustible cladding for walls

The walls adjacent to the red-hot walls of the furnace are subject to spontaneous combustion. To prevent their overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Option #1 - reflective skins

Sheathings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a stainless steel sheet. Some use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can release harmful substances. It is better not to take risks and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

For greater efficiency, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirror surface contributes to the reflection of heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents its heating. In addition, a stainless steel sheet, directing infrared rays back into the steam room, turns hard radiation into softer, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation for stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Possesses the increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard is a sheet refractory heat insulator. It has high strength and durability, protects flammable surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, flammable surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of sheathing using a metal sheet is such a “pie”: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the sheathing to the wall. They do not heat up and allow you to form ventilation gaps between the thermal insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the sheathing is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, mineralite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is covered with stainless steel.

Option #2 - sheathing with cladding

Of course, protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finish. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the refractory lining is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tile is laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of fired clay. Differs in durability, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles - also made of clay, outwardly similar to facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, ranging from white to black, including greens and blues that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a type of ceramic tile. It usually has an embossing in the form of a pattern or ornament on the front surface.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tile can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. In the color scheme - all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

Fixing refractory tiles directly to the walls will not have the effect of thermal insulation. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tile. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the furnace.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in sheathing:

• Refractory drywall (GKLO) - drywall, supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists thermal effects without structural deformations.
• Minerite is a cement-fiber board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite plates are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (SML) - a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and fiberglass. It has heat and sound insulation properties, does not collapse under the influence of water and temperature changes.

Protective sheathing with obligatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low coefficient of heat absorption, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of lining allows you to mask the protective "pie" to withstand the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

A Russian bath built according to all the rules is always a source of pride for its owner. After visiting the steam room, health improves, and problems fade into the background - this is a place where you can have a wonderful rest. The “heart” of the bath building is considered to be a stove, the lining of which is of no small importance.

The stove in the bath

The main room in the bath building is the steam room, where there should be a high temperature during the procedures. Equally important is the couple. In order for the steam room to function in the desired mode, the oven, the main element of the entire bath, will help to achieve the necessary parameters.

When building or purchasing a heating unit, it is necessary to pay attention to the compliance of its functionality with a number of requirements:

• rapid warming up of the room;
• stability of the furnace structure to high temperatures;
• the ability to work for a long period;
• beautiful appearance.

Of no small importance for the full functioning of the furnace in the future is the quality of the materials used for its manufacture.

Sauna oven lining

The heating unit installed in the bath building should not only provide the desired temperature regime, but also have a beautiful view. One of the best solutions in this case is deservedly considered to be lining the stove in the bath.

When finishing the furnace structure, they most often use:

Each of the above materials has its own quality characteristics.

Using tiles for finishing stoves

The tile belongs to the popular type of materials used to finish the stove in the bath, due to its affordable price and ease of installation.

When lining the furnace structure, the following varieties can be used:

1. Clinker tiles. For its production, clay is used, adding energy melters, fireclay and various dyes to it.
2. Tile "Majolica". Data ceramic products made of fired clay and covered with glaze. Finished products has a bright and saturated color, which is clearly visible in the photo. On such a tile, if desired, ornaments and drawings are applied.
3. Terracotta tiles. In terms of the components used in the production process, it has much in common with Majolica. But such a lining for a sauna stove is not covered with glaze. The main advantage of "Terracotta" is its high strength. The product is produced in a round shape.
4. Marble tiles. A stove with such a finish looks presentable, creating an atmosphere of coziness and comfort in the room. These marble products are characterized by strength and durability. This type of tile has no drawbacks.

Finishing the oven with bricks

This design option for the heating unit is not only economical, but also easy to implement.

Finishing the stove in a brick bath has advantages, including:

• quick heating to the desired temperature and maintaining it for a long time;
• the furnace design is not destroyed by steam and moisture.

Stone in the design of sauna stoves

When the stove is finished in a bath with a decorative stone (artificial or natural), the interior of the room acquires a noble and aesthetic appearance. If the heating unit in the bath building is lined with such material, it belongs to the extra-class buildings.

Application of steel case

When using this type of finish, a metal frame is placed on the surface of the furnace and covered with steel shields. Thanks to the steel case, the preservation of heat and at the same time the optimal level of heating of the room is ensured. But this type of cladding has a significant drawback - when the furnace is heated, the material also begins to heat up and a person’s touch with it is fraught with serious burns.

Plastering the walls of the furnace structure

If the most inexpensive and simple option is chosen than to finish the stove in the bath, then the use of plaster will be the best solution.

The work is carried out in two stages:

1. The walls of the stove are plastered to remove dust and dirt.
2. The second time plaster is used to level surfaces, level chips and dents.

After completion of work, it is desirable to whitewash the furnace structure with lime.

Tiles for cladding

The old way of facing is the laying of tiles. Such a finish of the portal of the sauna stove and its surfaces gives the structure an unusual and rather original appearance. As a result of tiling, the stove in the room becomes a separate element of the interior.

Only the master can perform this reliable and durable finish. As a result, the furnace design has a higher degree of heat transfer compared to the use of other finishing materials.

Finishing the stove in the bath: facing with bricks, decorative stone, tiles of the portal of the bath stove, how to finish it better, photo and video

Finishing the stove in the bath: facing with bricks, decorative stone, tiles of the portal of the bath stove, how to finish it better, photo and video

Finishing the stove in the bath: practical and reliable lining materials

The stove in the bath is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a stylish element of the interior. Therefore, her outer lining is given special attention. The construction market presents reliable and practical materials from which the furnace is finished in the bath.

The right choice of a suitable material depends on the design idea, interior style and financial capabilities of the customer.

Features of the decorative lining of the furnace

The high-quality finish of the sauna stove must meet the basic operational requirements: withstand high humidity, temperature changes, ensure durability and surface safety. A lined stove should quickly heat up the bath rooms and create a comfortable microclimate inside.

Facing the furnace in the bath has a number of advantages, among which are the following:

• fast and uniform heating of the premises;
• heat accumulation for a long time;
• minimal risk of burns from a heated oven;
• air drying does not occur;
• simplicity and accessibility of maintenance of the finished cladding;
• attractive appearance of heating equipment;
• resistance to mechanical damage and deformations.

Varieties of oven lining

In addition to the fact that the stove is the main heating equipment, it also performs an aesthetic function.

Facing the sauna stove is carried out using practical and durable decorative materials:

• ceramic tiles;
• refractory bricks;
• artificial and natural stone;
• decorative plaster;
• tiles;
• frame made of metal plates.

All materials are distinguished by high performance and installation features.

Ceramic tiles - elegance and durability

The best material for lining a sauna stove is ceramic tile. It is easy to install, affordable and durable.

For facing works, the following types of tiles are used:

• Clinker. It is made of red clay with the addition of fireclay component, melter and dye.
• Majolica. Material with a pressed base, covered with a protective glaze layer. This type of tile is distinguished by rich colors, decorative patterns and ornaments.
• Terracotta. Facing material, which in terms of performance is similar to majolica. Important differences are the porous structure and the absence of a protective glaze. Terracotta is distinguished by its durability, increased strength and resistance to mechanical damage. This type of tile is made in a round shape.
• Marble. Such material is distinguished by increased wear resistance, practicality and accessibility of installation, devoid of almost all the shortcomings.

Choosing a similar type of finish, the owners of furnaces ask themselves an important question, which tiles are better to lay over heating equipment. Experts believe that the best option is a material that has a minimum coefficient of thermal expansion and a dense structure - clinker tiles.

Refractory brick: reliability and safety

Decorating a sauna stove with bricks is the easiest and most budgetary option for owners who decide to do the cladding on their own.

The material has several advantages:

• fast and safe heating;
• accumulation and maintenance of heat for a long time;
• resistance to high moisture;
• low cost and easy installation.

Work on facing the furnace in the bath with bricks consists in arranging a reliable decorative screen around the entire perimeter of the equipment. To increase aesthetics and attractiveness, a combination of material of different colors is allowed.

Artificial and natural stone: exquisite nobility

The main advantage of facing with decorative stone is the creation of a noble and attractive look. High strength, durability, environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures, a variety of color palettes and textures make it possible to use the material for finishing bath rooms.

For facing works, the following types of stones are used:

Decorative stones are able to withstand an unlimited number of heatings, they accumulate thermal energy well and maintain the set temperature for a long time. In addition, such material is resistant to acids and alkalis.

According to their performance characteristics, artificial elements are not inferior to natural stones. With their help, you can qualitatively overlay a stove in a steam room or a fireplace in a house.

The technology of laying stones is simple, therefore, it does not require additional preparation. Non-standard forms of elements can cause some difficulties in the fitting process, therefore, before installation, it is recommended to lay out the material on a flat base. The stones are numbered and fixed on the surface of the furnace with the help of an adhesive composition.

Decorative plaster: simplicity and accessibility

A simple option for facing a Russian stove is plastering surfaces. Over time, the decorative and protective properties of the plaster composition are reduced, which will require frequent renewal of the cladding.

Important! Decorative plaster is used only for brick ovens and is not suitable for metal devices.

Plastering the stove in the bath is simple, all work is performed in the following order:

• the surface is cleaned of dust, debris and residues of the connecting solution;
• the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm;
• the stove is warmed up before the cladding begins;
• a mesh of metal rods is installed on the surface with fixation to the wire;
• the surface is moistened and the primary layer of the plaster mixture is applied;
• after the plaster has hardened, a second layer is applied.

The thickness of each subsequent layer does not exceed 6 mm. plaster mortar applied with a trowel, leveled over the surface with a spatula. When plastering the surface, it is necessary to avoid the appearance of defects - air bubbles and sagging.

After hardening, the top layer is carefully cleaned until a smooth surface is obtained.

Tiles: originality and practicality

The use of tiles is an old way of facing stove equipment for a bath. Tiles are tiles made of plastic pottery clay by firing in a kiln at a temperature of more than 1000 degrees. On the reverse side of the tile there are ramps designed to fix the material on any surface. Tiles are presented in several categories:

• with a smooth surface;
• majolica;
• with glazed surface;
• with embossed surface.

Tiles are distinguished by high performance characteristics - durability, practicality, strength and high heat transfer.

Tiling works should be entrusted to professionals who will perform well the installation of the material on the surface of the stoves.

Metal frame: accessibility and safety

The sauna stove can be lined with a metal frame, which is installed on top of the device and covered with protective shields. steel frame provides reliable protection of the furnace portal and the optimal level of air heating in the room.

Such a cladding has the following advantages:

• accumulates the released thermal energy;
• quickly heats the air and walls in the room;
• differs in reasonable price and simplicity of installation.

A serious disadvantage of such a cladding is the likelihood of burns in direct contact with the surface. Therefore, experts do not recommend installing metal frames for stoves in baths in order to avoid possible injuries.

Competent choice of decorative material for cladding and compliance with technological process will ensure the correct operation of the sauna stove and the creation of a comfortable microclimate in the premises.

Facing the stove in the bath: we analyze how to make the finish with ceramic tiles, decorative stone and plaster

The stove in the bath is not only a device for heating rooms, but also a stylish element of the interior. Therefore, special attention is paid to its outer lining.

Facing a metal furnace in a brick bath

Metal stoves, which are so popular among lovers of the Russian bath, are improved with brick lining. What is it for? The fact is that a metal furnace, despite all its advantages, has a number of disadvantages. The following disadvantages of iron can be noted:

• thermal radiation negatively affects human health, brings certain inconveniences;
• to maintain the required temperature, the furnace must be heated all the time, because the iron cools quickly;
• the metal surface must be insulated due to the possibility of overheating.

Due to these shortcomings of the metal, additional lining of the sauna stove is required. Why is brick used for this purpose? Firstly, hot brick is not as dangerous to humans as metal. It does not threaten such serious burns. Secondly, if you cover the stove, it does not cool down so quickly, this significantly reduces heating costs. In addition, the following advantages can be noted:

• a covered metal furnace does not dry the air, the steam will be more humid;
• heat in the steam room is distributed more evenly - the air is softer and smoother;
• with the help of facing bricks, you can give a beautiful, designer appearance to the steam room itself.

How to overlay an iron stove with bricks?

Finishing the stove in the bath is a very simple matter. Let's divide the process into four steps:

1. Select materials.
2. Pour the foundation.
3. Coat a metal oven.
4. Perform decorative work.

Let's consider each item in more detail.

The choice of materials for work

What kind of brick is better to line the oven? It must be taken into account that the facing brick will be constantly exposed to high temperatures and must withstand all loads. Therefore, it is better to line the furnace with a refractory full-bodied material that copes with the tasks set and retains its properties for many years. In addition, you can overlay the bath with both smooth and textured bricks.

Refractory material must be used for brick lining of the furnace

In addition, for lining the furnace you will need:

Foundation pouring

Filling the foundation is an extremely important stage of lining the bath, because it directly affects the reliability of the bath, its service life.

First of all, you will need to mix the solution. For this purpose, a traditional mixture of clay and sand is perfect. In addition to it, cement-based solutions with various impurities are used. It may seem that they are more reliable (because they are more expensive), but, in fact, their durability differs little.

Scheme of pouring the foundation for the furnace

When you decide on the facing solution, you can start pouring the foundation. If the plane used does not inspire confidence, then you will have to fill the foundation under it. Additionally, you can strengthen the floor with boards or metal rails. In other cases, the process is simpler.

The foundation is poured in the following way:

1. Determine the size of the base.
2. Set up the formwork.
3. Prepare the solution.
4. Fill it up.
5. Wait until it dries.

brick laying

When the foundation is completely set, you can start laying. Before starting this stage, in order to properly line the oven, mark the location of the brick.

First of all, calculate the required space from the oven to the walls. Too much space will interfere with high-quality heating and heat transfer, too little space will significantly reduce the life of the brick. The optimal space is 3-5 centimeters.

Install an iron sheet along the edges of the markup. Such a sheet will protect the material from overheating. Put asbestos cardboard on it. This refractory material will additionally protect the brick from wear.

Brick lining scheme for a metal stove

Upon completion of all these preparatory work, you can impose a bath. To get the desired result, follow these instructions:

1. Soak the brick in water. Don't forget to soak it before styling.
2. Shake it, the first row should be laid solid.
3. You can use reinforcement to strengthen the masonry.
4. Tie the wire around the corners of the mesh.
5. Start laying the second row in a checkerboard pattern.
6. Apply mortar to the space between the bricks.
7. Reinforce the top edge of the hole with a metal corner. This is done for the furnace opening device. Please note that the opening should be convenient, the firebox should open without hitting the walls.
8. To ensure air circulation, special holes are made in the penultimate row. To do this, one row is laid across the previous one and four holes are made on each side.
9. Laying the finish row does not require anything specific - you can do it however you want. You can make it decorative, tile or just pour stones.

Covering the bath with a brick, you can level it by gently tapping with a trowel or hammer handle.

As for the laying technology, keep the seams within 3-5 centimeters, do not forget to tie up the brick.

Decorative works

Before the beginning decorative works, clean up the remaining traces of the solution. If you do not want to additionally finish the brick, then you can make the so-called "fur coat". To do this, sand it with a brush dipped in soapy water.

Most often, a bath stove is decorated with:

• smooth multi-colored brick;
• textured brick.

You can also tile or paint, arrange in the form of some kind of decoration.

In conclusion, we want to say that the first firebox must be done very carefully. Do not overheat the oven, allow the mortar to harden completely. After overlaying the oven, wait three days. Do it right - your bath will serve you for many years.

Facing the stove in a bath with a brick: we do the lining correctly, instructions for finishing a metal bath stove

Facing the stove in the bath with a brick - how to veneer and how to make the lining with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction for finishing a metal sauna stove.

Finishing the furnace in the bath

What is the meaning of a bath for a Russian person? It's not just a place to wash. This is a place where a person rests, can afford to relax. We can say that the bath is one of the favorite places to relax. Finishing the stove in the bath is not the last place.

Bath heart

What is the heart, the basis of any bath? In the bath, steam and high temperature are important. To reach them, you need to build a furnace. It is she who is the key element of the entire bath complex.

It is very important to pay special attention to the compliance of the sauna stove with the following requirements:

• resistance to high temperature;
• the possibility of continuous continuous operation;
• rapid heating of the room.

When building a furnace, special attention should be paid to the materials for its manufacture. Everything will depend on their quality. further work baths.

What can be the lining

The stove in the bath should not only provide the maximum level of heat, but also have an aesthetic appearance. Perhaps the best solution would be lining the furnace.

Furnace finishing can be carried out using the following materials:

1. Tile.
2. Brick.
3. A natural stone.
4. Fake diamond.
5. Steel case.
6. Plaster.
7. Tiles.

Each of the presented materials has its own characteristics and characteristics.

This type of material is one of the most popular, due to its affordable cost and ease of installation.

Facing the stove in the bath can be made with the following types of tiles:

• Clinker tiles. It is made from clay with the addition of energy melters, dye and fireclay.
• Majolica tiles. It is a pressed material coated with a special compound (glaze). This type of tile has a bright and rich color. Also often a pattern and ornament is applied to the tile.
• Terracotta tiles. Its composition is similar to "Majolica". However, this type of tile does not have a special glaze coating. Is different high level strength. By its composition, this type of tile is more porous than others. The shape of the tile is rounded. That creates an atmosphere of comfort in the room.
• Marble tiles. Differs in durability, durability. Appearance is quite noble. Creates the effect of comfort in the room. This type of tile has no drawbacks.

The most economical and easy-to-execute option for finishing a sauna stove. A brick-lined oven has the following advantages:

• heating speed;
• keeping warm for a long time;
• the furnace does not collapse under the influence of moisture.

Also, using a brick as facing material can save you a lot of money.

The main advantage when facing a sauna stove with stone (natural or artificial) is a noble and aesthetic appearance. The bath, the stove of which is lined with stone, can rightfully be considered an extra-class building.

The following types of natural and artificial stones can be used as facing material:

Using the steel case

This type of cladding is the installation of a metal frame on the surface of the furnace and closing it with steel shields.

The steel case retains heat well and provides an optimal level of heating. However, this type of lining is unsafe for human health. During the operation of the furnace, the steel case is also heated, touching which is fraught with burns.

Plastering the walls of the sauna stove

The original Russian version of the cladding is the plastering of the walls of the sauna stove. The easiest and cheapest way.

The plastering of the furnace takes place in two stages:

1. Plastering walls to remove dirt and dust.
2. Re-plastering to level the walls and remove dents and chips.

After the process of plastering the oven is completed, it can be whitewashed with lime.

Use of tiles

The use of tiles is the old fashioned way oven linings. This type of finish gives the stove an original and unusual appearance. The sauna stove becomes not a part of the room, but a separate element of the interior with its own individuality.

Note! This method cladding is quite complicated. Only a specialist can perform it, however, such a lining is reliable and durable.

A sauna stove lined with tiles, in addition to its unusual appearance, has a higher level of heat transfer compared to stoves lined with other materials.

There are many options for lining sauna stoves. Work with each of the presented materials should be carried out with the utmost care. Materials should be selected high-quality and durable. In this case, the sauna stove will delight its owners for decades.

Finishing the stove in the bath - how and with what material to finish the stove in the bath

After reading the article, you will learn about the decoration of the stove in the bath. The choice of material for lining the stove depends not only on the preferences of the owner of the bath, but also on some other factors.

Wooden baths require especially careful observance of fire safety rules during their arrangement. Anything can be the source of the fire, an unextinguished cigarette, coals that have fallen out of the crucible of the firebox, an uncleaned chimney, but the stove itself remains the main source of threat.

The surface of the stove heats up to 300 ° - 400 °, the heat falls on the wooden walls, which leads to their excessive heating and charring. Stop the ignition process wooden surfaces extremely difficult, the best way to avoid a fire is to prevent it. There are two truly effective ways insulating the surface of wooden walls from the heat of sauna stoves - protection equipment in the form of a screen or the construction of special sheathing from non-combustible materials.

When is it required?

It happens that there is no need to protect the walls. If the furnace is located at a safe distance from the wall in terms of fire safety, the arrangement of protective screens and other measures can be neglected. The distance from the walls that is required to reduce the heat from the source is different:

• A stove laid out in a quarter of a brick should be located no closer than 35-40 cm from the wall;
• A metal furnace without a lining should be placed a meter away and not closer;
• Metal with a footed crucible can be installed 70-75cm from the wall.

However, not every steam room has the opportunity to fulfill these requirements, due to the small area. The layout of steam rooms with an area of ​​6-8 m² hardly accommodates the necessary set of items for the soaring procedure. Therefore, the need to isolate the walls with special skins is relevant.

Application of protective screens

Screens are shields made of brick or metal, covering the walls from intense thermal radiation. Similar protection is used when installing metal furnaces.

1. Metal screens are made from steel or cast iron sheets, these

casings surround the heat source with a distance of 3-5 cm.

Advice! When purchasing a metal stove for a bath, you should give preference to a model equipped with a metal casing. Its cost is not much higher, but the issues of wall insulation are removed.

Additional front or front shielding, which is located on the walls, depending on the location of the furnace, will not interfere. Protection guarantees wood from overheating, reducing t ° by 100 degrees or more, and provides an opportunity to save space in the steam room. The oven protected by a casing can be installed at a distance of 50-55cm from the wall.

Screen installation is simple. The casing, equipped with legs, is attached to the floor with side or front screens - with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

1. Brick screens are masonry, which sew up the oven with

all sides, the same casing, only made of brick. Another way is laying half a brick between the firebox and a wall of solid fireclay bricks laid on a solution of clay and cement. The width of the wall should be 120mm, although there is an opinion that it is permissible to put 60mm bricks in a quarter, but it should be remembered that in this case the thermal insulation index is reduced by exactly half. In height, it is recommended to raise the masonry 20-30 cm above the surface of the firebox, but if you raise it to the ceiling, it will not be worse.

The screen should be placed at a distance of 10-15cm from the wall, 5-15cm from the stove, that is, the space saving is 30-40cm

Important! In the lower part of the masonry, functional holes for heat transfer should be made.

Protective screens are effective, they reduce the temperature to a level acceptable when using high-temperature fuel units. The same function is performed by wall cladding made of non-combustible materials.

Sheathing the walls of the bath with non-combustible insulating materials

To prevent the walls from overheating, you can use materials with the properties of increased thermal insulation and inertness to high temperatures. Two types of materials are used:

1. reflective;
2. fireproof with lining.

The first type includes materials for wall sheathing, consisting of thermal insulation with refractory properties and metal coating in the form of a sheet.

Wall insulation with reflective sheathing

Protective cake with reflective materials do so. First, the thermal insulation is fixed with ceramic bushings directly on the wooden walls, then it is sewn up with a stainless steel sheet.

Advice! It is better not to use galvanized metal, since when heated, it is possible to release heavy metals harmful to the human body.

Stainless steel with a polished surface reflects the heat flow into the steam room, reduces heat loss. In this case, reflected heat is more useful than direct heat. For thermal insulation use:

• basalt cardboard or cotton wool, the only material with increased hygroscopicity, non-combustible, environmentally friendly;
• asbestos cardboard, which reliably protects against the occurrence of a flame, characterized by long service life;
• minerite, an artificial material made specifically for this purpose.

The protective sheathing assumes the presence of ventilation gaps of 2 cm from the wall to the insulation, 2 cm from the insulation to the steel sheet. If it is necessary to install the stove as close to the wall as possible, make a double skin of non-combustible insulation, with the help of ceramic bushings, maintain gaps of 2-3 cm and sew up steel sheet.

Insulation with cladding

Measures to protect the walls with cladding are necessary in order to preserve the interior decoration of the room. They are more expensive, but no one has canceled the aesthetic advantages of the bath. It is based on tiling, which is laid on a refractory lining of GKLO, non-deformable gypsum-based cardboard with fiberglass, mineralite, non-combustible cement-fiber material, moisture resistant and resistant to biochemical attack, LSU, material made of fiberglass bonded with magnesia additives, resistant to impact high temperatures, high humidity. Heat-resistant glue is used for installation.

Advice! Use heat-resistant reinforced Terracotta glue, made from chamotte dust bound with kaolin additives, designed for tiling stoves, fireplaces, all heated surfaces.

• terracotta tiles, it is made from special firing clay, which gives increased heat resistance and durability;
• clinker, more dense clay tiles with a surface of various colors, similar to facing bricks;
• tiled tiles, also made of clay, with an original embossed surface;
• porcelain stoneware made from a mixture of clays, kaolins, quartz sand, feldspars by high-temperature firing under pressure of 400-500 kg / cm², with imitation of stone, wood, durable artificial material;
• talc chloride, a rock mineral consisting of talc, magnesite and chlorite, is an environmentally friendly natural material that absolutely does not absorb moisture, has an attractive appearance, does not crumble, and is not afraid of high temperatures.

Advice! Use talc chloride to finish the steam room, this mineral has a healing effect on the human body, regulates blood pressure, stimulates cerebral circulation, expels viruses and microbes, due to the release of vitamin D when heated.

All of the listed tiles are a protection element that rearranges the cake, the basis of which is a refractory material. As well as a screen, the sheet material is installed on ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm from the wall. The minimum distance to the heat source from the tiles should be 20 cm.

Protection with cladding decorates the room, creates a positive attitude, improves the efficiency of procedures. And most importantly, properly installed insulation prevents the occurrence of overheating of wooden walls, their ignition. Light steam!