How to make a wooden partition with a door. We build interior partitions with our own hands

29.08.2019

Wooden partitions are a great solution for dividing the space of an apartment or house, making themed zoning. With their help, you can create a niche or make another room. In addition, wood panels can be a good substitute for furniture. When redeveloping a room, it is precisely such structures that allow you to create a comfortable space, you just need to install them correctly.

Frame partitions in a wooden house

Structures can be installed in the premises different types. Frame partitions made of wood are considered the lightest, and modular partitions with glass can also be attributed to structures with low weight. If we compare qualities such as ease of installation and functionality, then wooden interior partitions are significantly superior to foam concrete, brick partitions, walls made of shell rock and stone.

Wooden panels can be used where heavy structures cannot be installed. If the house has a weak foundation, the building stands on floating soils, then wooden structures are best suited. Such partitions should be installed on loggias and attics, on built-on floors.

Panels can be used in the interior in several ways. With their help, designers separate the kitchen and living areas, installing panels in studio apartments and loft apartments.

Sliding structures should be used if several rooms need to be combined into one as soon as possible or zoning should be done. Installation of structures will allow you to separate a small space, for example, equip a dressing room in the bedroom. Using this technique, a separate play area can be distinguished in the nursery.

History reference

If we talk about when wooden partitions appeared, then we can say with confidence that structures for zoning space have been used for a long time. Screens were widely known in antiquity. So, in the days of Ancient Egypt, screens made of Nile reeds could be found in houses. They allowed to isolate the sleeping place from the main room.

In the time of Catherine II, screens covered with Chinese silk could be found in imperial palaces and palaces of aristocrats.

Interior partitions in our time

Today, wooden structures allow you to divide the room into several zones. Panels between rooms can be installed immediately, even on initial stage construction, or after its completion, if the installation of structures was not originally planned in the project.

In addition, panels are installed to expand the doorway or move it to another location. The installation of partitions does not take much time.

Before starting the installation, it is worthwhile to study the stages of assembling wood panels well and see a photo of how it should turn out. Well, if a person already has the skills to work with wood, in this case it will be much easier for him to do the job. If you want to make partitions in wooden house, but there is no experience, it is best to invite masters to work.

If we talk about the advantages of wooden partitions, then among the main ones we can name environmental friendliness, ease of installation, processing and repair.

You can mount panels of any configuration. In addition, by combining materials, you can achieve the desired decorative effect, which will decorate the interior, make it modern and stylish. Wooden partitions, if they are deformed, are easily replaced with new ones.

The disadvantages of wooden structures include the fact that they all need additional processing. We are talking about applying antifungal and refractory agents to the panels. It should also be taken into account that wooden structures cannot provide a high degree of sound insulation. It is necessary to take care of high-quality electrical wiring - insulation must be done by professionals.

Installation of partitions in a wooden house

Everything stationary structures, which are installed indoors with their own hands, should be as stable as possible.

The life of the residents of the house depends on it. Importance has fire resistance and sound insulation of partitions. The panel must be free of cracks and the structure must be cleaned and inspected from time to time. It is necessary to ensure that termites and rodents do not appear inside the partition.

If movable partitions are installed in the house, it is very important that they are securely fixed so that they have latches. An important characteristic is the ease of movement of the structure.

Wood can be combined with various elements - plexiglass, transparent and colored plastic. Often used and stained glass - it looks very impressive. Through such transparent walls, a lot of sunlight enters the rooms. The frame is often made of pine, ash, beech or maple.

To build a simple partition, you need to purchase boards of 40-50 mm. If we talk about the length, then they should be a centimeter shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. When performing installation, it is necessary to use a plumb line.

Nail two sticks to the floor in such a way that you get a groove. At the ceiling it is necessary to nail a triangular bar. After that, you should place the panel in the lower groove, press it against the wall and nail it to the upper bar. Gaps can be filled with filler. The second triangular bar should fix the panel, after pressing the boards tightly. The wall can be finished with drywall or simply plastered.

Summarizing

In the rooms, you can install partitions of various types. It can be mobile and folding structures, stationary and combined partitions. Also, collapsible structures are made in the premises.

If you want to install a mobile partition, you need to buy a hinged mechanism. In addition, you will need to install guides. The design is made according to a previously developed design.

Frame partitions in a wooden house are recommended to be installed after the process of the most intensive shrinkage of the structure is completed. So, for wild log cabins erected from a forest of natural moisture, this period can take 1.5-2 years, and for buildings made of timber or logs - from 5-6 months to a year. Wooden frame or houses from, subject to all the requirements of their construction technologies, practically do not shrink. Therefore, the installation of interior partitions (re-walls) in them can not be shelved, but proceed to it immediately after laying the roofing.

Requirements for partitions and materials used

Interroom partitions made of wood are used to organize the main interior layout buildings or separation of individual functional areas in the premises. They are lightweight self-supporting structures, as they are not subjected to loads from floors or roofs. Their installation is possible almost anywhere, without preparing the foundation, directly above the ceiling.

Partitions in the house must meet the following requirements:

have a small mass so as not to create an excessive load on the floor structure;
be characterized by the minimum possible thickness to preserve the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe premises;
ensure sufficient strength to hold hanging furniture, household appliances, interior items;
provide the required sound insulation of one room from another;
be assembled from materials that are well combined with the load-bearing enclosing structures.

Assembly features and construction materials

When choosing materials for the construction of a partition in a wooden house, one should also take into account their cost, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, moisture resistance (for rooms with high humidity). For frame elements, you can use wooden beam(section from 50x50 mm) or a board (thickness 40-50 mm and width over the section of the partition), which have undergone appropriate treatment with hydrophobic, antiseptic and flame retardant compounds. The installation of a supporting skeleton from a galvanized profile of plasterboard systems is not excluded. For rails, UW from 50x40 mm is suitable, for CW racks from 50x50 mm. Partition surfaces can be formed from sheets of drywall, plywood, OSB, fiberboard, wooden lining, blockhouse, as well as plastered on an unplaned board and a wooden lath.

The issues of soundproofing partition walls require an integrated approach. They are solved depending on the type of enclosing structures and the requirements for the effectiveness of the acoustic barrier. For example, for an interior partition in a log house between the kitchen and the dining room (living room), it is quite enough to lay mineral wool for general construction purposes with a density of 30-35 kg / m 3 with a layer thickness of 50 mm. If the layout of the sleeping room is carried out, then it will require enhanced noise protection. It should be equipped with profile soundproof varieties of basalt wool such as Acoustic Butts from Rockwool or Technoacoustic from TechnoNIKOL. But in order to create a truly "quiet" room, the thickness of the mineral wool layer in the partition must be at least 100-150 mm.

The diagram below shows an approximate comparison of the acoustic characteristics of partition walls with different internal structures. The effectiveness of sound insulation against airborne noise is determined by the Rw index, the higher it is, the better. Obviously the most high performance noise protection can be achieved by assembling double partitions. They are characterized by an internal separating air gap and external sheathing with at least two layers of sheet material.

IMPORTANT! If a frame partition in a wooden house is used to separate a room with high humidity, then a prerequisite is the laying of a waterproofing film in its design. The hydrobarrier is mounted from the side of exposure to water vapor. It prevents condensation of moisture in the fibrous layer, which ensures its safety and long-term performance.

Arrangement of compensation gaps

The constituent elements of a building made of wood materials are subject to constant deformation changes throughout the entire period of their operation. They are caused, first of all, by high hygroscopicity of wood. Its fibers, saturated with moisture, swell or shrink, drying out. Neither preliminary chamber drying of natural material, nor its treatment with special chemical compositions allows to completely prevent these processes. Therefore, even after the completion of the most active phase of shrinkage of the structure, at which the humidity of its supporting structures reaches its minimum values, compensation gaps should be provided for all embedded elements. Thus, the partition in a wooden house will not be squeezed between opposite walls or between the ceiling and the floor, which means it will not be deformed.

In established buildings

compensation gaps along the perimeter of the partition are left at least 10 mm. After stitching the frame sheet material, gaps near the walls and floor can be filled mounting foam. It is able to firmly hold the partition, while simultaneously playing the role of a shock-absorbing pad. But it is recommended to fill the expansion joint above the wall with fibrous material (felt, tow, mineral wool).

In new buildings

If frame partitions in a wooden house must be installed immediately after its construction, then the gaps above them should be increased by 50-80 mm (standard shrinkage value). Consequently, the height of the mounted structure will be less than the height of the overlapped opening between the floor and the ceiling by 60-90 mm. The reserves for compensation of deformations near the walls remain the same - 10 cm from each of the vertical ends of the partition.

Partitions in a wooden house made of hewn wood or round logs can be matched with walls in two ways. The first way is to cut reciprocal grooves in the logs of the walls along the line of the vertical end beams of the partitions. Tow is stuffed into the grooves between the bars and walls or strips of mineral wool are placed for additional heat and noise insulation. The method provides excellent alignment of structures without interfering with their mutual vertical displacement. However, if an unforeseen redevelopment of the interior space of the room is necessary, rectangular samples of wood will remain on the wall. Making them invisible can be quite difficult.

The second way is to arrange the frame elements with compensation indents from the walls. At the same time, the mating areas are closed either with curly, cut out for logs, or with straight skirting boards with shelves of 40-50 mm. In a similar way, it is possible to decorate the joints of partitions with the floor and ceiling, choosing the dimensions of the plinths in accordance with the size of the deformation gaps.

IMPORTANT! Fastening of corner strips is allowed only to one of the surfaces. For vertical - this is to the wall or to the partition. Forhorizontal - only to the ceiling or floor, since they cannot be attached to the partition!

What tools are required to assemble frame partitions

The device of partitions in a wooden house with their own hands is carried out mainly on the basis of lumber. Therefore, for their processing and installation, you will need the following tools:

electric or chainsaw, electric jigsaw, but you can get by with one hand saw;
drill, screwdriver;
slick;
axe;
hammer;
tape measure, square, float level, pencil;
construction stapler.

It is convenient to mark the location of the structure with a laser level. You can also get by with a dyeing thread or a simple twine. They are fixed on opposite load-bearing walls, allowing you to mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the floor and ceiling.

The sequence of installation of a wooden frame partition

Important! Often, partitions do not need to prepare a special base. However, in the case of their installation over significant spans of ceilings or the installation of a massive structure, it may be necessary to strengthen its base. In this case, an additional beam is laid with its ends resting on the foundations of the walls.

Frame manufacturing

On the ceiling, floor and load-bearing walls, the projection lines of the frame partition are marked.
Rigid fastening of the end beam is allowed only to the floor. The horizontal bearing element can be immediately installed on a thick damper pad, for example, from felt; or fix it on steel brackets with a gap, which will subsequently be filled with mounting foam.
Install vertical end bars, securing them with temporary rigid connections with the walls.
In together with the location of the future doorway, two rack beams are also mounted. Their vertical position is controlled by a float level, and temporary fixation is carried out by oblique struts to the floor.
Install the upper horizontal end element. Often it is made up of several parts connected by steel plates. The plates are placed on the upper and lower planes of the bars. It is recommended to pre-calculate the places of such connections so that they are above the vertical racks.
After assembling the frame of the frame partition, the internal vertical posts are mounted with a step of 600 mm. It is optimal for laying mineral wool thermal and sound insulation with a standard slab width of 610 mm.
It is recommended to make horizontal jumpers from short bars inside the formed cells in a checkerboard pattern (taking into account the height of the sheathing material, if it is sheet). This will not only facilitate the fixation of jumpers and sheets, but also give the frame additional rigidity.
At the location of the doors, a horizontal element is mounted to the vertical bars, limiting the top of the opening. It is reinforced with an additional short vertical post to the upper horizontal bar.
Rigid temporary connections with walls are replaced with floating ones. They are made in the same way as for.

Important! Having a certain professional skill, you can avoid establishing temporary connections. end vertical bars are initially fixed by floating elements, as shown in the figure below.

Filling and sheathing

After the cells are filled with mineral wool, the interior partition made of wood is sheathed on both sides with a vapor barrier membrane (it is shot with a stapler). At the same time, it is important not to confuse the direction of vapor diffusion - it must be provided with an exit in the direction from the heater, i.e. partition from inside. The strips of the membrane are fixed with overlaps, and the places of punctures with staples, damage and joints are glued with adhesive tape intended for this purpose.
If the frame is sheathed with drywall, OSB or plywood, then their sheets are fixed with offset joints, which are then puttied. The resulting surfaces can play the role of rough or semi-finishing and are subject to further processing in accordance with the selected technology. If a lining or blockhouse is used as a lining, then they only need to be coated with paints and varnishes.

Finally

Interior partitions in a wooden house are not complex engineering structures, so they are quite capable of being installed independently. To carry out the work, it will be enough to have basic carpentry skills, as well as the presence of a minimum set of household tools. However, in this case, you will have to show patience, be careful in performing the operation of marking and fitting the elements of the partition.

Do not forget about the rules of electrical installation and fire safety, if electrical communications are laid inside the partition. It is important to remember that concealed installation wiring in wooden structures allowed only in metal pipes(steel or copper).

It has the following constructive device:

The device of a wooden frame made of bars or boards, while the width of the frame material depends on the expected thickness of the sound insulation of the interior partitions.
Wooden frame sheathing edged boards 25 ... 50 mm thick, the thickness of the material of the walls of the frame partition depends on the expected load on the walls of the partition.
Simultaneously with the installation of the walls of the partition, a soundproof layer is installed (if necessary).
After the installation of the walls, the partition is sheathed on both sides with slab finishing materials - fiberboard, plywood or plasterboard, for rooms with high humidity (bathroom, shower room) it is recommended to use GKLV.

The construction of the walls of such a partition can be done without primary sheathing with edged boards, but this greatly reduces the applicability of wall finishing materials and the ability of walls to withstand loads of more than 25 kg per linear meter.

In this case, thin tile materials for wall decoration, for example, such as fiberboard with a thickness of 2.5 ... 8 mm, are no longer recommended. Further in the article, we will consider the most common arrangement of interior partitions with a wooden frame with primary cladding made of boards (hereinafter referred to as wooden frame partitions).

For an example of a wooden frame partition, let's take the example of such a partition from a review article (partition A, partition thickness 105 mm).

Specifications

For example, it is necessary to divide the area in a wooden house into three rooms with two wooden frame partitions 105 mm thick and 3000 mm high.

As can be seen from the proposed layout of the premises, it is necessary to install two wooden frame partitions (A and A1) perpendicular to each other.

Before proceeding with the installation of a wooden frame partition, it is necessary to display its plan on the diagram with the arrangement of racks (B) and guides (A), mark the places doorways(if necessary), as well as work out in advance and display on the diagram the nodes (DP - doorway) and the node (C - place and method of connecting partitions).

Note:The dimensions are not indicated, since in this case they do not matter, the main thing for us is to study the best way to arrange such partitions. At the same time, I want to note that the recommended distance between drains is 600 ... 1200 mm.

Based specifications, for the installation of wooden frame partitions, we need the following materials:

Bar 50x50x6000 mm - the device of the upper and lower guides.
Bar 50x50x3000 mm - the device of vertical racks and horizontal jumpers.
Edged board 50x100x3000 mm - stand at the junction of partitions.
Steel connecting corner - for connecting frame racks with guides and lintels.
Edged board 25x100x6000 mm - primary sheathing of the frame of partitions (wall sheet).
Plate insulation with a thickness of 40-50 mm - an internal soundproofing device.
Fiberboard with a thickness of at least 2.5 mm - sheathing of partition walls.
Hardware (screws and nails).

In order to ensure the parallelism of the bars of the upper and lower guides, it is first recommended to mark up at the place of their installation. Instead of an unknown value X, there should be a distance you need).

Installation of a wooden frame partition

Installation of the frame begins with the installation of guide bars - upper (B and D) and lower (B1 and G1). Guide bars (B and D) are attached to the ceiling along the marking line. After that, guide bars (B1 and G1) are attached to the floor. The fastening of the bars can be carried out using self-tapping screws.

Note:The upper and lower bars should be placed opposite each other, the parallelism of the bars is indicated by a dotted line.

Before installing the bars of the upper and lower guides, it is necessary to make cuts at both ends, cuts of the same size must be made at the ends of the bars of the side racks of the frame.

The connection of the guides can be done using self-tapping screws or tongues. Before installing the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to drill passage holes of a smaller diameter so that when the screw is screwed in, the bar does not crack.

After installing the bars of the upper and lower rails, the bars (D and D1) are installed - the side racks of the frame and are attached to the wall. Installation is carried out by notches at the ends of the racks into notches in the guides (node 1). Next, a rack (D2) is installed from a board with a width of at least 100 mm (50x100 mm). The rack (D2) is attached to the upper and lower trim using steel corners (node 2):

Now that the framing of the frame is ready, it is the turn to install the vertical racks of the frame (E) and horizontal lintels (G) and the device of the DP node (doorway).

Installation of frame racks

The height of the racks should ensure their installation between the rails with a slight interference. For example, the distance between the guides is 2900 mm, which means the length of the bars from which the racks are made should be 2895 ... 2900 mm. There are two options for attaching racks to guide bars:

Option 1 - fastening the rack with four steel corners.
Option 2 - fastening racks on cuts, when using this option, before installing the guide bars, it is necessary to make cuts in them.

The device of the doorway in the frame partition

When installing racks (E) in the places of the passage between the premises, it is necessary to immediately perform work on the arrangement of the node (DP - doorway). To do this, when installing the racks (E), the upper fastening can be done in the following way- connection of racks (E and E1) with a jumper (G) is carried out using self-tapping screws or steel corners.

The lower part of the uprights (E) is attached to the lower rail bar in two ways:

Option 1 - connection of the drain and the tenon-groove guide with additional fastening with a steel corner (figure on the left).
Option 2 - connection of the rack and the lower rail with the device at the end of the rack of the notch (in a quarter) with fastening to the end of the rail with two self-tapping screws, additional mount using a steel angle (figure on the right).

When arranging a doorway, it is necessary to cut out a part of the lower guide bar, which is located between the uprights (E), this will allow the installation of doors without a threshold device.

Fastening horizontal jumpers

Fastening of horizontal jumpers to the racks of the frame can be done in several ways. For example, the fastening of jumpers (Ж1) to the frame uprights (E) and the outer uprights (D) can be performed using steel corners or combined - the jumper is attached to the upright (D) with steel corners, and to the upright (E) with self-tapping screws.

Jumpers (G) can be attached to the frame posts (E) using steel corners, self-tapping screws, or fastened to the notches. All mounting options are shown in the figure:

The distance between the jumpers (G) can be made any, but it is not advisable to exceed a distance of more than 1000 mm, as this will reduce the rigidity of the installation of the vertical racks of the frame and, accordingly, the entire structure as a whole.

Frame sheathing

Primary sheathing with edged boards of the finished frame is carried out first on one side. With the help of screws or nails, the boards are attached to the vertical racks of the frame. Between the finish board and the ceiling, it is recommended to leave a gap of 5 ...

The final sheathing of the frame with boards (second side) is carried out as follows. First, several boards (4 ... 6 pieces) are attached to the frame and the resulting space between the walls of the frame is filled with various soundproof materials (the most effective is the use of soft insulation).

After laying the soundproofing material, the frame is sheathed with boards to the level of the laid soundproofing material, another 4 ... 6 boards are added in height and the soundproofing material is laid again. Sheathing of the second side of the frame is carried out in this way until the entire side of the frame is covered with boards.

Note:Do not forget to leave a gap between the finish board and the ceiling, as was done when sheathing the first side of the frame.

The secondary cladding of a wooden frame partition is performed using fiberboard (or GKL) sheets. Fiberboard sheets are attached to the boards with nails (roofing nails), if plasterboard is used as a sheathing material, then it is attached to the boards with self-tapping screws.

Note:The distance between the nails when attaching fiberboard sheets to the frame sheathing boards depends on their thickness and hardness.

If the frame partitions are sheathed with fiberboard and decorative trim walls will be carried out by gluing wallpaper, then in this case it is advisable to glue the joints of fiberboard sheets with paper tape. It is also necessary to glue the nail heads with paper tape and only after that you can proceed to finishing walls of a wooden frame partition.

When a house is being built, it is important to choose the optimal design for it, as well as to choose the most suitable materials. Features of constructive solutions, as well as the presence of load-bearing elements, play a crucial role in terms of stability, since almost the entire total load of the house falls on them. The location of the partitions and the materials chosen for them is also a separate issue that must certainly be decided even before the start of construction.

Types of partitions

Definitely the use of heavy walls and partitions in a house made of wood, made, for example, from foam blocks, as well as brickwork, not practical. In addition, the construction and installation of wooden partitions is much easier and less labor-intensive.

a wooden partition can be capital and separate living rooms, or it can carry an aesthetic function.

What interior partitions can be made in a wooden house:

with a frame base;
with a shield base;
frameless plank or panel.

Each of the three types has its own characteristics that should be disassembled and studied before at least one wall is created in a wooden house with your own hands. After that, only careful preparation will help to make partitions in a wooden house efficiently and for a long time.

Walls, walls and fences

The distinctive features of partitions and walls are related to their immediate purpose. Depending on the role played by certain structures, they are divided into three main types:

walls with load-bearing function;
walls without load-bearing function;
walls acting as barriers.

Sometimes even experts can confuse concepts in defining these types, but knowing the differences will not be superfluous and will allow you to create a clear overall picture for both the pros and the beginner.

Bearing walls are considered to be walls that not only connect the foundation and floor floors, but also take on the weight of the roof and interfloor ceilings, transferring it to the base of the house. This is the most important of the types of walls, when they are calculated, then in addition to their constructive solution take into account the requirements for bearing capacity. These walls rise to their full height between the foundation and the roof.

Interior partitions can be load-bearing, non-bearing, or serve as a fence.

Walls without a load-bearing function differ from the previous type only in the absence of a load-bearing capacity. They also rise to the full height of the floors, but the only load they create depends on their mass.

Partitions are typically used as fences. Sometimes they are made to the full height of the floor, sometimes these walls only partially cover the height of the floors. They can be placed differently on each floor. There are also no special requirements for their strength.

Features of installation in buildings made of different materials

As already mentioned, the most important difference between partitions is that they are not based on the foundation, but on the elements of interfloor ceilings. It is noteworthy that for each room they can have a separate height.

Structures made of wood, especially from beams and log cabins, for which walls made of wood materials are used most often, require taking into account the massiveness, as well as the requirements for the strength properties of the walls.

To create partitions in brick buildings, the same raw materials are most often used as for the main ones, including load-bearing walls. But wood is justified, given that even a small wall with height and width parameters of 270x100 cm weighs about half a ton, that is, even more than a 30 cm thick wood load-bearing wall, which creates too much load on the ceiling.

Each wooden partition can be reassembled several times, but it is recommended to do the installation once. And so put internal partitions it is better after the shrinkage of the structure (if it is a wooden building) is completely completed. This may take a period of 1 to 3 years, although a wooden interior partition can be installed in the second year after the construction of the building frame, which does not pose a danger. If the installation of partitions in a wooden house is carried out earlier, then under the heavy weight of the ceilings during shrinkage, they will begin to crack due to excessive pressure.

If you plan to install a partition in a new building, then you need to wait for the shrinkage of the house.

When installing partitions in a wooden house with your own hands, it is worth remembering about their future shrinkage. It occurs slowly and not so noticeably, but with a sufficiently moist initial raw material, the level of the walls may drop by a few millimeters.

Built on a shield or frame technology the house practically does not shrink, so the partitions in it can be installed immediately after the floor is ready.
There are several types of wood partitions that need to be considered separately. They have already been written about above (with and without frames, as well as panel ones).

Frame structure

More often this type is used for frame buildings, but in timber and log houses if desired, also find application.

Assembly steps:

For the base of the lower trim, bars are made based on the measurements obtained.
The bars are attached to the floor. For this, self-tapping screws are usually used.
Next, the preparation of vertical racks and horizontal lintels of the frame is carried out, which can be fixed element by element into the working position immediately in place or assembled and installed section by section. Before making a part, accurate measurements are carried out, paying attention to the quality of the ends and attachment points. Parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
The frame is fixed to the ceiling with wedging and fasteners.
A heat or sound insulator is being laid in the cells of the frame, if it is needed.
The frame is being sheathed. To do this, you can use lining or GVL, which are cut in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the uprights and crossbars.

Shield partition

The order of installation of the shield partition, as well as the joinery, is as follows:

In the premises on the floor, measurements and floor markings are carried out, taking into account the dimensions of future partitions.
Boards are being prepared. The thickness of the partition depends on the parameters (2-4 cm of thickness) and the number of layers (2-3) of the shields, it can be from 4 to 12 cm. For a three-layer structure, it is recommended to make the inner layer thinner.
On the draft floor grooves are formed with the help of bars, nailing them along the installation site of the protective walls. Similar grooves are made on the ceiling, the correspondence of the upper and lower grooves is checked using a temple or level.
The installation of shields is carried out in height according to the installed bars.
A layer of sound insulation is laid between the shields if necessary.
To install windows and doors, panels can be cut or installed to the appropriate dimensions.
If not a solid partition is used, but with a gap between it and the ceiling (up to 50 cm), then use the fastening along the walls or using horizontal jumpers along their height.

Scheme of the shield partition.

Frameless partition

The installation procedure for a frameless partition, which is made from ordinary boards, is as follows:

In the premises on the floor, measurements and floor markings are carried out, taking into account the dimensions of future partitions.
A harness made of beams is fixed, and two on the sides are nailed to the lower beam, which is already laid and nailed to the floor, so that a groove is formed along the width of the partition board.
A triangular beam is nailed to the ceiling, which will become the side of the groove. You can also use a metal profile or metal corners.
Partition boards are installed vertically, inserted into the lower groove and nailed from above to the triangle bars. The boards are installed end-to-end, the gaps are filled with tow, iso-cord or foamed.
Then the boards are fixed from above, nailing another wooden triangle beam on the other side of the partition.
Next, you can lay the skin.

For all three types of partitions, you need to use quality wood 1-2 varieties, best of all - conifers.

Houses made of wood, in addition to load-bearing walls, have interior partitions. They are made from different material, but in wooden frame traditionally made of wood (beams, logs, shields, boards). This article will be useful to those who want to make partitions in a wooden house with their own hands and do not know what kind of design this is and what materials are used for manufacturing. .

Mount interior partitions should be after complete shrinkage of the house. If we compare them with load-bearing walls for the construction of a house from a bar, then the structure is self-supporting. Install them if necessary, make changes to the layout and divide several residential areas. At the same time, they are responsible for the thermal insulation and sound insulation of these areas, but do not carry the cargo load from the second floor and roof.

Partitions in a wooden house are easy to reconstruct and move from one place to another with your own hands without involving workers, changing the layout. This is their main difference from load-bearing walls. They may not be provided in the foundation design and may have a lightweight base.

Thus, the main characteristics that interior partitions should have:

Strength.
Lightweight so as not to carry a heavy load.
Do not have a massive and thick design.
Heat and sound insulation of the partitioned room.
Support and support the weight of some household appliances and furniture.

For wooden house First of all, it is important to use environmentally friendly materials. Therefore, the partitioning structure must comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards and fire safety. For the construction, materials are used that are moisture resistant, approved for residential premises, well withstand open flames and environmentally friendly. At the same time, they must be with good sound insulation.

Varieties of partitions in a log house

Of the structures that are mounted on beams and lags, they are divided into:

frame-panel,
wooden, carpentry,
solid.

Variety of modern building materials made it possible to make designs of several more types:

Plasterboard.
Glass.
Designer (can be from any material)

The installation of these types is not difficult and do it mono with your own hands. Let's talk about each design in more detail.

Frame-panel

This is the most economical and most common option for partitions. You can make frame divisions with your own hands, having some knowledge and a tool. They are constructed from a bar of 50x100 mm in increments of 50-60 cm. The horizontal strapping acts as a connecting one. It also gives the vertical structure additional stability.

The interior frame partitions are insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam from 50 to 100 mm. On both sides, the structure is sealed with a vapor barrier material. It plays a protective role against moisture that forms in the living room, preventing it from getting inside the partition. The sound insulation that frame partitions receive after insulation is higher than that of other types. A partition is suitable for building a house from glued laminated timber or other lumber.

The price for such a partition is on average from 100 rubles / m².

To give a smooth inner and outer surface, the structure is sheathed with plywood sheets 7-10 mm, GKL or GVL 10-14 mm from the spirit of the sides.

Wooden, carpentry partitions

For this design, special carpentry interior partitions are used. They are decorated either with sheets of valuable wood, or covered with varnish or paint. The thermal insulation and sound insulation of this partition is low, so they are rarely used and only where these characteristics are not important. For example, to fence off the dressing area in the bedroom.

The design of carpentry partitions refers to paneled. It has a strapping and paneled connecting shields. Such partitions are good in that they can not be finished.

This type of partitions has a price of 250 to 1500 rubles / m². The cost depends on the type of material. You can assemble it yourself, but first consult with experts.

Solid partitions

A solid structure in a wooden house is usually made from the material that was used in construction. So, for the construction of a house from a profiled beam, a partition is assembled from a profiled beam 50x100 mm. Fiberboard or GKL is sheathed on top.

The rigidity of the system is given by metal spikes with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 100 mm. they are assembled. From above and below the structure is fastened with triangular bars. On the sides, they are connected with nails to the load-bearing wall. Or special grooves are made in the load-bearing wall, where the timber is laid during assembly. But this method of connection is recommended to be used if the house has not completely shrunk.

Sound insulation and thermal insulation of the structure depends on the quality of the timber. But if desired, you can increase it by flashing a thin layer of foam. But then you definitely need finishing.

The price of a timber system depends on the type of timber that was used to build a wooden house. On average, from a profiled chamber drying comes out from 250 m2. The most expensive device will be made of glued laminated timber.

Installation and construction of partitions from the board

After the construction of a wooden house, planed or not planed boards remain. They can be used for the manufacture of interior partitions. For do-it-yourself manufacturing, material with a width of 150-200 mm and a thickness of 50-60 mm is suitable. The boards are connected to each other with a tongue and groove.

Before finishing, this structure is plastered. If the boards were planed, then the finish can be fixed immediately.

In order for the partition not to bend after plastering, the boards need to be split with a hammer and wooden wedges from 10-15 mm should be hammered into the cracks formed.

From the boards you can also make shields, which are then assembled into a partition. For this, material of various lengths and thicknesses is suitable. Simply in this case, you can use all the construction residues. by the most optimal size for the device of shields, boards are considered, the thickness of which is 20, 25 or 40 mm.

Shields are made with boards of two or three rows. And to increase thermal insulation and sound insulation, roofing material or cardboard, parchment paper or heat-insulating material is laid between the layers.

Making a two-layer shield

Boards are taken of any thickness, but the shield device should be no thinner than 40 mm. Lay them vertically with nails. Their laying is carried out with a complete overlap of the joints. From the sides, each shield should have protrusions from the board of 25 mm, with the help of these quarters there is a connection between them. The result should be shields with dimensions: width - 0.5 or 0.6 m, length - 1.5 m.

For fastening, logs are used, which are mounted on the ceiling and floor. A groove is made in the lags where the partition is attached. After that, the structure is plastered or finished with plasterboard.

Making a three-layer shield

The structure is made of boards in three layers, so the best sound insulation is obtained. The thickness of the board is 19-25 mm. The top and bottom layer of boards are laid vertically, the middle one horizontally. Moreover, the middle layer of boards can be thinner than the side ones. Attach them at the seam to each other.

Quarters are left in the same way from the edges, for attaching the shields into a single structure.

Cardboard or roofing material is placed in two layers between 1 and 2, 2 and 3. Such panels have high sound insulation and are suitable for partitioning rooms of any purpose. At the end, the shields are plastered on both sides.

What should I pay attention to when installing partitions

The most basic thing to pay attention to when installing a partition with your own hands is the design of the floor. If the floor is laid on logs, right on the ground, as happens in country houses, then a separate beam is installed for the partition. The device should be fixed so that there is a gap of 1 cm between the ends of the beam and the partition. Otherwise, the partition may warp when the ground moves.

If the floor is laid on beams, then the partition can be installed directly on one of them. But at the same time, you need to leave a small gap between the overlap and the strapping. Between the ceiling and the partition, it is also necessary to leave a small gap of 5 cm.

What material to use for finishing partitions

Panel boards or partitions assembled from boards are plastered and covered with wallpaper. Can be finished on top of GKL or chipboard. Which are also puttied and primed on top. But chipboard has one minus, when it absorbs moisture from the air, it bubbles up. So over time, the walls acquire a wavy shape.

For damp and high-humidity rooms, it is best to finish the walls of GVL. It is also puttied with moisture-resistant putty and primed. From above, you can do any finish.

We talked about structures that can be easily installed independently and even using the remnants of building materials. The choice is up to the readers.