Do-it-yourself wooden table: we use a beam and a board. Do-it-yourself high-quality wooden table Do-it-yourself timber countertop

29.08.2019

All photos from the article

Let's try to assemble a wooden table with our own hands, without using modern materials.

At our disposal will be only a beam, a planed board, screws and ... let's not get too used to the Middle Ages - a drill and a screwdriver.

Our goal is to assemble a simple garden table exclusively from traditional materials.

Concept

Let's take a homemade garden table from an English-language resource as a basis.

In the course of the implementation of the idea, the design will be slightly modified based on the materials at hand.

Materials (edit)

What do we need from wood?

A powerful bar of 100x100 millimeters will become uprights.
We will make all slopes, stiffeners and horizontal supports from 100x50 timber.
The table top is made of a 40 mm thick board. Select the width based on the desired width of the tabletop.

Important: all material must be completely dry. Resinous types of wood (for example, larch) are better at resisting decay; but spruce and pine are much lighter, which in our case will not be superfluous.

Getting Started

Table top and legs

It is the final width of the table top that will determine where the vertical table posts will fit.

Therefore, let's start with her.

Sand the boards... Only on planes, chamfering is not necessary yet. Otherwise, you will become the owner of a table, in the cracks of which debris will constantly accumulate.
Lay the boards parallel... Select their relative position so that there are no gaps. If necessary, do not be too lazy to work with a plane and a grinder: a tabletop with cracks is an open marriage.
Then apply a horizontal cross bar with a vertical leg screwed to it at the end on the future lower side of the tabletop. Fix the timber, starting from the outer boards.

Do not rush to adjust the timber to size. Key moment- the rack should be located in the center of the tabletop

Then you can cut off the excess timber on both sides and process the edges.

Screw the timber to all of the countertop planks.

Do not miss with long screws. The main thing is that they do not swell the boards from the top side.

Repeat from the other side of the table.

Slopes, stiffeners

We attach a thinner one to a thick beam, which is to become a table support. The principle is the same - we drill into the end with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws, and we pull the support to the rack. (See also the article.)

Drill holes in the end of the rack - very important point... Otherwise, the tree may split.

We cut and fasten the slopes. Here you can use ordinary nails: the load will be directed perpendicular to their axis.

We attach the improvised legs to the lower horizontal table supports. For them, you can use any cut of the board. (See also the article.)

Friends asked me to make a table that can be placed in the gazebo in the country. I did not choose a special version of the project to make a table from a bar with my own hands, but suggested simple scheme assemblies of furniture from standard timber lumber: timber and boards. The main idea was that the table was low and could serve as a bench at the same time. In the workshop I had all the tools and devices. It remained to check and prepare everything workplace to make a table from a bar with your own hands.

Tools

Since the structure must be made of wood, the tool was mainly needed for woodworking. Here's what I used when making a table from a bar with my own hands:

jigsaw;
saw;
gas-burner;
drill screwdriver;
a wrench with a socket nut head;
chisels;
reamer drill ø 2 cm;
hammer;
hacksaw;
clamps - 2 pcs.;
dies for slicing external threadø 6 mm;
grinder;
roulette;
brushes.

Materials (edit)

I went to a construction supermarket and bought the following:

PF 170 varnish - 0.5 l.;
joiner's glue;

screws 7 cm, 50 cm, washers and nuts, plastic plugs.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make a wooden table from a bar with your own hands

Initially, I wanted to make a table with my own and my own hands from 50 x 50 mm bars. But this idea had to be abandoned. Friends asked me to make massive loft-style furniture. Therefore, I used larger lumber. I decided to make the table in two stages: the assembly of the support structure and the formation of the table top.

Countertop manufacturing

I cut the wood 10 x 15 x 600 cm with a saw into 6 pieces.
I cleaned the upper corners along the perimeter of each element with an abrasive wheel at an angle of 45 ° and a width of 0.5 cm.
To do 2 through holesø 6 mm through the tabletop, clamped 3 pieces each with clamps and drilled with a drill. Then I left 2 lines and added a new element and drilled again. I did this because there was no long drill.
Outside, the holes were expanded with a reamer ø 2 cm to a depth of 1 cm.
I sawed the reinforcement ø 6 mm into 2 pieces 0.9 m long.
At the ends of the pins, I cut the thread with a die.
Side adjacent sides wooden elements missed with wood glue.
I inserted 2 pins into the holes. I put washers on the ends of the rods and screwed on the nuts.
I closed the nuts with plastic plugs.

All lateral and horizontal surfaces were sanded with a fine abrasive wheel mounted on a grinder.

The gas burner slightly burned the surface of the countertop. This gave the wood a noble look, emphasizing the structural pattern of the cut of the wood.
I treated the entire tabletop with a stain with a brush.
The property of this tool is characterized by the fact that it penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood, strengthening and disinfecting it. But fine fibers create hairiness on the furniture surface. Therefore, I re-polished everything.
The surface of the countertop was covered with PF 170 varnish for 2 times.

Assembling the support structure

Before making a table from a bar, I drew drawings of the support part and the table top future furniture... According to the dimensions and dimensions specified in the drawings, he began to make the supporting structure of the table with his own hands.

I made the legs for furniture by sawing a 10 x 20 cm tree into 2 pieces 86 cm long. + Waste.
At the top of the supports from the outside, I fixed bars 30 x 30 mm on screws.
I made a crossbar from a board 20 x 150 x 660 cm, fixing it with screws to the centers of the lateral sides of the supports.

The whole outer surface burned gas burner, covered with stain, sanded.
The supports were varnished with PF 170 in two layers.
I installed the tabletop on a support frame.
I fixed the tabletop through the 30x30 mm slats with screws.

Cost of materials

timber 100 x 150 x 6000 mm = 1500 rubles;
timber 100 x 200 x 2000 mm = 440 rubles;
timber 30 x 30 x 2000 mm = 50 rubles;
board 20 x 150 x 740 mm = 20 rubles;
abrasive wheels for a grinder = 50 rubles;
reinforcement with a diameter of ø 6 mm, length 2 m. = 20 rubles;
nuts and washers, 4 pcs. in stock;
sandpaper = 10 rubles;
stain - 0.5 l. = 100 rubles;
varnish PF 170 - 0.5 l. = 50 rubles;
wood glue 250 g = 160 rubles;
screws 70 mm, 50 mm available.

Total costs were: 2400 rubles.

Labor costs

The time spent on making a table from a bar with your own hands according to the drawings is combined in the following table.

Taking into account the technological breaks in work, it was possible to make the table in 3 working days. A country table made of a bar, made by me according to drawings, can play a role not only as a plane for arranging objects, but be comfortable furniture for sitting. This model attracts with its simplicity of manufacture, low labor costs and practicality. During the assembly of furniture, you must comply with all safety requirements and use personal protective equipment.

From the abundance of furniture on offer, wooden tables and chairs remain popular everywhere. Natural materials ensure environmental friendliness, safety and durability of the models. Solid wood furniture can be found in any country house, apartment or office.

Alternatively, you can make your own wooden furniture.

Wooden kitchen tables

Before buying a table, there are a few things to consider. It is on them that the comfort and mood of household members in the kitchen depend.

Ergonomics

Due to the fact that in small apartments usually there are kitchens small size, do not forget about ergonomics. First of all, when choosing a wooden dining table, one should take into account the comfort of being near the kitchen pieces of furniture.

It is not comfortable when you rest your elbows or legs on a neighbor or on the legs of the table. In addition, there should be an optimal distance from the table to other pieces of furniture. The table should be approximately 80 cm away from walls and other items in the kitchen.

The height of the table also plays an important role. It should be selected depending on the height of the persons sitting behind him. Low (70-74 cm) tables are recommended for short people. Those with a height of 1.6 m to 1.7 m should buy tables with standard sizes(75-76 cm).

Tabletop appearance

Before choosing a countertop design, you need to calculate how many people usually need to be placed behind it. The shapes are found: oval, round and rectangular and square.

Tables that lack corners should be placed in spacious kitchens. Tables with the shape of a square or rectangle fit perfectly into small rooms. Should see if it fits appearance table for the general interior.

Practicality

There are many models that carry additional functionality, namely, replace the cabinet, can be folded and unfolded if necessary.

A wooden extendable table is an excellent solution for those owners who suffer from a lack of space in the dining room.

Like any furniture, these products have a number of positive and negative qualities... Wooden kitchen tables have the following advantages:

uniqueness and originality of wood texture, which cannot be recreated;
the ability to withstand shocks and daily use for a long time;
environmental safety, thanks to a natural material that does not contain glue and does not emit harmful substances in atmosphere.

The negative characteristics include: high cost, vulnerability to moisture and dampness. At elevated temperatures, the material can dry out, thereby creating cracks and loosening the table. Over time, the surface may darken or be attacked by pests.

Wood table in the living room

Recently, it has become fashionable to decorate living quarters in white colors. A combination of white furniture and light decoration of walls and windows is actively used. Dark and White color can also be combined in furniture.

For example, the table top might be white, while the legs and edge of the table might be dark. Such furniture is often used when decorating a room in a minimalist style. In a spacious living room or studio, a white wooden table is a great solution.

The glass-wood table is often placed in front of the sofa, it is small in size and is used as a fashionable piece of furniture in the room. It is intended: for drinking tea in front of the TV, storing books and magazines, as well as for working in front of a laptop.

Solid wood table in the country

On the personal plot the most important place for gathering loved ones and guests is a gazebo or space on outdoors.

In nature, it is drawn to everything natural, so a wooden table for a summer residence is a combination of beauty and practicality in one object. In addition, this piece of furniture goes well with the general rustic style.

Tables made of wood for a summer cottage must be not only durable, but also moisture resistant. If the table will often be exposed to moisture, you should choose a product made of larch.

Country tables should have the property of not deteriorating under the scorching sun. Due to its density, the best material for country table considered walnut or oak. This wood is considered hard and expressive. To resist pests, the oak is stained, that is, it is kept in water for some time. Such material is more expensive than its counterparts.

You can save money if you choose a softwood table. They have lightness, pleasant color, smell and moisture resistance. The increased resin content resists water absorption.

How to make a wooden table yourself?

Some summer residents make tables themselves. Creativity and hard work will save you money and create a unique thing on your summer cottage... Making a wooden table with your own hands is not at all difficult. It is enough to have in your arsenal necessary materials, tools and a little time.

Tools and materials required for manufacturing:

plane;
sander or paper;
screwdriver with a set of bits;
jigsaw or saw;
chisel;
means for staining and varnishing;
metal corners;
yardstick;
building level;
accessories for fastening (screws, bolts, self-tapping screws);
boards 40 or 50 mm thick;
4 bars for wooden table legs measuring 50x50 mm;
auxiliary boards 40 mm thick for fixing the table top.

Procedure (step by step instructions)

Decide on the dimensions of the future homemade product. For table lengths greater than standard values, at least four racks must be installed.
Pre-cut the boards for the worktop and cut them to the required size.
Place five boards in parallel, fasten them from below with self-tapping screws to the auxiliary transverse boards. Leave room for the table legs.
Install the leg blocks using metal corners and secure them to the table top.
To prevent distortion and stability of the legs, skip the perimeter planks under the table top. If the table has more than four legs, an additional cross bar must be reinforced in the middle.
Clean the edges of the countertop sandpaper from all sides.
Cover the product with pest repellent (stain) and, if desired, apply a layer of varnish.

There are many ways to create a table with your own hands. The final version of our homemade wooden table can be seen in the photo.

Wooden tables for babies

When a young child grows up and begins to sit independently, it is time to feed him with various complementary foods.

Wooden table ik for feeding is the most good option furniture designed for a comfortable meal. Tables are usually made in conjunction with chairs and have a common design.

There are several types of chairs for children:

transforming chairs
high chairs with an adjustable back.

In the first case, the seat height is adjusted for the intended purpose. The child can not only eat at the table, but also play if the folding wooden table is removed and the seat is lowered.

In the second case adjustable height seat allows you to raise the baby higher or lower it to a safe distance to the floor. Even in the event of an unsuccessful maneuver, the child will not be able to harm himself and will allow the mother to do her daily activities in the kitchen.

When buying wooden feeding tables, parents do not have to worry about their child's health - allergic reactions he will not appear. Therefore, natural wood material is most often used for the manufacture of children's furniture.

When buying a table, you should pay attention to sharp corners that can cause unwanted damage to its little owner.

Finally, I would like to say that thanks to wooden furniture there are many opportunities to equip a home for different designs. The most popular is the rustic style with the use of natural materials and copying the semi-antique interior.

Safety and your own health directly depends on the type of materials that are in your home.

Another important fact is that wood is such a material that you can work with without using complex tools and equipment. Thus, any man is able to create beautiful things on his own for reasonable money.

Photo of a wooden table

A homemade table can be made from a variety of materials: MDF or chipboard, furniture board. A solid, durable table is obtained from planks and beams. Usually, only the legs of the table are made of timber or also the frame on which the lid rests. For the table top itself, use edged board or a shield from an array. But you can make the whole product from a bar, you get a massive structure that will last for many years, withstanding significant loads. Consider several options for how to make a table from a bar with your own hands.

Lumber and plank table

To make a table with strong stable legs you will need:

timber 100x100 for 2 vertical supports;
timber 100x50 for horizontal and diagonal elements of the legs, stiffeners;
edged planed board 40 for table top (cover).

The length of the boards should be equal to the desired length of the table, we take such an amount so that we get a cover of the required width. All the edges are carefully sanded when the boards are close to each other by the side edges, no gaps should form between them. The length of the horizontal supports should ultimately be equal to the width of the countertop, but you can first cut the timber into fragments of greater length, and remove the excess after attaching the legs to the lid. The length of the vertical posts is equal to the height of the table minus 18 cm. The length of the diagonal elements (slopes) is determined after the H-shaped base of the leg is assembled from horizontal and vertical elements.

So that the boards that form the table top do not move during work, you can splic them using dowels and glue. It is very important to drill holes in all boards at the same distance from the edges. It is more convenient to do this when there is an additive milling machine.

Sequence of work:

Attach the horizontal leg supports to both ends of the vertical rack so that the rack is located at the same distance from their edges. For fastening, use 4 self-tapping screws, pre-drill holes for them with a slightly larger diameter. Make 2 H-shaped pieces.
Place the resulting structure on shifted or spliced boards at a distance of about 10 cm from the short edge of the future cover. Try it on, make sure that the vertical post is at the same distance from the long edges, drill holes, screw the timber to the tabletop with screws (you can use 2 screws per board). Attach a similar structure on the other edge. If the timber was taken with a margin of length, cut off the excess and grind the ends.
Mark the middle of the vertical rack, measure the distance from it to the edges of the horizontal supports, cut 4 slopes for each leg, cut off the ends at an angle of 45 °.
Attach the slopes to the rack and supports using self-tapping screws or nails.
At the edges of the lower horizontal supports, screw the trims of the board from which the cover is made, you get something like heels.
From a 100x50 bar, cut a piece equal in length to the distance between the supports (longitudinal stiffener), fix it under the cover, between the vertical posts.

Once assembled, the furniture can be primed and painted or varnished.

4-legged table

For a table with a height of 1.1 m, with a tabletop size of 1.5x0.9, you will need the following materials:

timber 100x100, 4 pcs. 105 cm for legs, 2 x 75 cm and 2 x 135 cm for crossbars;
edged board 50 mm thick, 150 mm wide for the cover, 6 parts 135 cm long and 1 - 90 cm;
10x40 rails for lid assembly, 2 pcs. length 85 cm;
screws, corners.

The size of the table can be changed. To implement your project, it is enough to change the length of the blanks. To make the furniture wider, you can take boards of greater width or increase their number.

After grinding and treating all the parts with an antiseptic, you can start assembling:

Saw a short board lengthwise into 2 halves 7.5 cm wide, lay 6 long boards on the working surface, and along the edges, perpendicular to them, these 2 halves.
Put the slats on the joint of the longitudinal and transverse elements, mark and drill holes (1 in each long board and 5 in the short one, so that they are arranged in 2 rows in a checkerboard pattern). Fasten the cover parts together by screwing the slats to them.
Connect 2 legs each with short crossbars. To do this, drill holes for dowels at the ends of the crossbars and the lower part of the legs, collect dry. If there are no distortions, glue the holes and dowels with glue and reconnect the parts.
Connect the resulting side supports with long cross-bars.
Put the resulting structure of legs and proges on the lid lying upside down, secure with corners.

Remains finishing.

Another option is to connect the legs not with the legs, which are located at a low height, but with the drawers, which are located directly under the table top and form a frame on which it rests. To increase rigidity, jibs are installed in the corners between the drawers. The drawer side is attached to the lid with corners. The short edges of the table can be designed differently: screw 50x50 bars or slats of smaller thickness to the ends of the boards. They need to be placed with a wide edge to the ends of the tabletop boards, and a narrow edge to the ground.

Lumber table

For countertops, timber is used quite rarely, a board with a thickness of 30 mm is quite capable of withstanding the load, and it costs much less. If you use small section bars (40x40, 50x50) for the countertop, there will be much more joints where cracks can form than when using boards 150-200 mm wide. From such a bar, you can independently make a furniture board for the countertop by gluing the elements and holding the resulting canvas in a vice. But this is a rather painstaking job.

The table, entirely made of 100 mm thick timber, turns out to be massive, solid and looks impressive. But such furniture will not fit into every interior, and it will be problematic to move it. Possible options designs:

squat coffee table(also suitable for oriental-style tea parties);
2-legged model;
4-legged model.

To assemble the countertop, you can use a profiled beam to connect the elements to each other into one shield. In this case, the spikes and grooves on the extreme elements will have to be cut so that the ends of the lid are smooth.

For the countertop, it is better to use a rectangular bar, 100x150 or 100x200. It can also be put on supports, if there are 2 of them. For a low table, legs from one piece of timber are enough, for a high one, several fragments are spliced to make legs of the required height or width. The beam can be positioned both vertically and horizontally. If there are 4 legs, it is better to use square sawn timber (100x100, 150x150).

The table top is assembled by analogy with a board cover. The bars are laid side by side on a flat surface, fastened with the help of transverse bars, laths of a small section. Legs (supports) and table top are connected using corners. Tables made of such massive materials do not have sidewalls or stiffening ribs.

There are much more options for the design of a table made of sawn timber, you can make a tabletop of a complex shape, use a rounded beam (for a tabletop, you will have to saw it in half). The main thing is to work with carefully dried wood, so that later it will not be led. Do not forget about the treatment with antiseptics, especially if the furniture will be in the open air.

The dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe Fresh air and just have a fragrant herbal tea on the veranda. And the special charm of such a simple ceremony will give the arrangement of the dacha with furniture made by yourself.

When choosing materials for the table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers such as spruce and pine are malleable and easy to work with, but without proper treatment, such material is more flammable, and the resin emitted can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Wood species	Brinell hardness)	Density (kg / m3)	Stability	Color change trends
Birch	3,0	600	average	the color gets deeper
Larch	2,6	500	good	takes on shades of gray
European oak	3,7	700	good	the color gets deeper
Ash	4,0	700	average	light to straw, yellowish brown
Pear	3,3	680	average	blushes
Cherry	3,0	580	good	from light pink to deep reddish shade

Materials and tools

For the interior arrangement of summer cottages and country houses long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to freely move around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything you need for work and designing the table itself.

For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden boards measuring 30-2000 mm.

Balusters or wooden beams for the legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is ensured with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools

Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
Wood putty.
Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for 30 and 50 mm.
Various grit sandpaper and holder.
Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
Electric drill.
Sander.
Building level.
Square.
Roulette or centimeter.
Marker.
Glue.

Prices for various types of building boards

Construction boards

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove irregularities, the remnants of cut knots, clean up cracks. Boards must be flat and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including ends, edges and corners.

If it is supposed to be made with a one-piece shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single sheet and save time for adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the legs for the legs.

Assembling the frame for the countertop

The frame enhances the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.

Video - Making a dining table for a summer residence

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 inner transverse slats. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with self-tapping screws 50 mm. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or woodwork). To prevent the boards from splitting, pilot holes can be drilled into them and only then the screws can be screwed in.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the entire structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude, but are completely "sunk" in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The tabletop boards are connected, leveled with a tape measure and laid on the floor face side down, the frame is placed on top so that the cross bars lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the strips, and all elements are tightened with screws by 30 mm. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each transverse board.

Assembling the table legs

The table top is laid on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of the legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if you wish, you can additionally use metal corners... Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws from the front side of the table, and square ones - with corner fasteners.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Finishing

After mounting the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawn off along the radius with a jigsaw or the butt is completely rounded off. Chamfers can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything can be carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired with wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads in order to be able to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But to hide the beauty natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will do all necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table on legs for a summer residence

Option 2. Stump table

An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old trees or trees that threaten buildings are often cut down. If at your dacha there is or was just such a tree, then definitely there will be no problems with finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you need very little:

wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you need to adhere to the rule "the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board";
stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any type of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp or rotten. If the tree has been cut recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it's best to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry place or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that a few weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. Typically, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the state of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark leaves without effort, then you can start working;
water-based varnish for wood, natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
sandpaper of various grit and holder;
planer or sander;
chisel;
building level;
roulette;
hammer and nails;
screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
abrasive fiber.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1

The dried workpiece of the future table must be cleaned of the bark. A chisel or chisel is useful for this step. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. Any soft and rotten areas should be removed as well.

Stage 2

After the bark has been removed, the stump needs to be aligned with the horizontal plane. To do this, using the level is prepared Smooth surface, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the flaws are eliminated using a planer. At the same stage of work, unnecessarily large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.

Stage 3

A leveled stump is sanded with a disc sander, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard-to-reach places processed with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment in time.

Stage 4

Cracks and grooves in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris with a chisel, after which sandpaper folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper should be carefully processed from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5

To prevent the stump from rotting and to ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of the legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized supports. It is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6

After installing the legs, proceed to the sheathing of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we stuff two parallel strips perpendicularly onto the sidewalls, and on top there are two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the table top can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The option of a table with a round or oval table top looks more advantageous.

To give this shape, you can use homemade device from a thread, a pencil and a nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the table top, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all unnecessary is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the table top are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8

Holes and imperfections in the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished worktop is fixed from below on the crate with nail holders or self-tapping screws.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. Optionally, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fibers - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.