How to fix strobes in the wall - Blog Stroyremontiruy. Electrical wiring for plaster: installation rules, chasing, searching for a hidden cable How to plaster strobes in a wall

23.06.2020

Competent sealing of the strobe

It may seem to many that closing the strobe is a very simple matter, and anyone can perform this operation. But experience shows that this is far from the case. For someone, the solution sticks out of the strobe, for someone it cracks, for someone, on the contrary, a depression is obtained. In addition, not everyone knows how to seal strobes.

Let's first understand what a strobe is. It is, in fact, a groove laid in brickwork, plaster, concrete or other hard building materials, for the purpose of laying communications on it. Usually these are wires or pipes. The grooves that remain after the beacons are removed from the plaster are also strobes. Of course, they always need to be sealed.

Here are examples of how not to do it:

Of course, the repair of defects does not require a diploma from the performer. higher education, but for a good result, you must follow only three simple rules.

Rule number 1. The entire surface of the strobe must be primed with a deep penetration compound. We also recommend that you read the article about the primer before plastering. Like, well, why is it necessary, they are narrow? But in them, as you know, a lot of dust. And if you try to just throw plaster over the ditch, it will simply lie on the dust and not stick to the walls. Ringing sound and subsequent coloring is guaranteed. You need to prime the strobes with a narrow wide brush, do not spare the primer. If the brush does not fit well into the groove, simply water it with a primer with a sweep of the brush. The main thing is not to flood your hands, because it is quite difficult to wash off the dried primer from the skin.

Important: not only the inside of the strobe should be primed, but also the area around it, since plaster mortar will also fall on these places. In addition, it is imperative to wait until the soil is completely dry before embedding.

Rule number 2. The application of the solution for embedding the strobe is carried out in a special way. First, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinkage cracks. Silicate brick and foam concrete take moisture from the plaster especially strongly. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the steps described below must be performed twice.

For embedding, it is best to use not alabaster, but ordinary gypsum plaster. After all, a very quick setting of alabaster is one of the main causes of jambs when smearing strobes.

How should the solution be applied? For starters, its consistency is made a little thicker than with plaster. Again, so that less moisture leaves it, and it does not sag. It is applied crosswise. That is, movements with a spatula should not be directed along the strobe, but towards its walls. First to one, then to another. So the solution will adhere well to its entire surface.

If you close up not a strobe, but relatively big hole, you should first apply plaster around its perimeter and only then - in the center.

Tip: It is best to move the trowel not in a straight line, but in a zigzag pattern. Such a move will further enhance the adhesion of the plaster to the walls of the strobe.

Again, if you need to close up not a strobe, but a hole, you will no longer have to remove the excess solution with a trowel, but with an aluminum rule. You need to hold it the same way - at a right angle to the surface. Here you already need to perform several removals. All of them are made from the center of the hole to its edges, as in the picture:

It is in this way, and not from edge to edge - this is important!

Here are three simple rules for competently embedding strobes with your own hands. By following them, you will definitely get excellent results.

How to properly seal strobes

No building is complete without electrical wiring. If cables are laid along the walls in strobes, then improperly sealed strobes with a cable can spoil the results of the work of a large team. First of all, it must be taken into account that the layer of plaster or putty in the strobe can many times exceed the layer of this material on the rest of the wall surface. Consequently, the drying time of the sealed strobe is significantly longer than the drying time of the rest of the wall surface. For example, if the strobes are sealed simultaneously with the puttying of the wall with a fugenfüller, then in a day the wall may already be ready for application to it finishing putty, and the strobes have only just begun to set, although the surface layer will seem dried out. In the strobe, the fugenfüller dries completely, as a rule, in three days. If a layer of finishing putty is applied over an undried strobe, then after drying it begins to prevent the evaporation of moisture from the strobe, as a result of which the drying of the putty in the strobe slows down significantly. At the same time, the slightest deformation in a relatively thick layer of fugenfüller in the strobe leads to cracks, which are transmitted to the finishing putty.

When closing strobes, you should never try to complete this work in one pass. The same fugenfüller expands when it dries, and if they close up a strobe with several cables in one pass, trying to immediately level the wall, then after drying, a tubercle forms along the strobe, protruding from the wall surface by 1 - 3 millimeters. After two days, it will be a big problem to clean it off.

Therefore, strobes are always closed in several passes. In the first pass, the strobe is filled by 80 - 90 percent. All voids in the strobe are carefully filled. If an excess of putty is formed, then it is removed. After the putty has completely dried (or cement plaster) the strobe is sealed under the finishing putty, almost on the same level with the rest of the wall surface. When using a plaster dry mix M-150 for sealing the strobe, it is desirable to add a small amount of cement M500 to it, which will provide an increased hardness of the plaster layer above the cables.

Often, the rough embedding of the strobe is performed by electricians who, without the proper skills in plastering work, do not prime the strobes before embedding, which reduces the reliability of adhesion of the material filling the strobe with the wall.

Strobes cut with a double-disk chasing cutter. it is much easier to close up than those punched out with a puncher. Therefore, it is always necessary to purchase modern high-quality equipment. With a large number of strobes, a double-disk strobe cutter will pay off even due to the lower consumption of plaster and putty required for embedding strobes.

After the strobe is sealed, plastering and painting work is carried out, as a result of which the terminal boxes on the walls, in which the conductors are connected, often become inaccessible. Although in accordance with the requirements of the standards it is necessary to provide access to the connections of wires and cable cores. You can read more about this problem and ways to solve it in the article Typical violations of electrical installation rules.

How to patch holes in a wall

Often, when carrying out repairs, it becomes necessary to transfer electrical points, for which it is necessary to ditch the walls for laying the cable. This is not the easiest job, especially if there is no good puncher, however, the process does not end there, since it is necessary not only to break through the technological channels, but also to properly fix them in cable, as well as competently close the strobes .

Tools and materials

To work you will need -

- Several metal spatulas (10 and 15 cm),
- Building gypsum,
- Primer and brush,
-Gypsum mixture Rotband type.

Termination instructions

First thing after completion assembly work for chasing, it is necessary to prime the technological channels for the reliability of further coupling of the mixture and the inner walls of the strobes. The soil creates a thin film on the walls in the channel and this greatly facilitates the work in the future. If the primer for internal works concentrated, then it is necessary to dilute it in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer with water and apply liberally to the inner walls of the pierced channel with a brush.

After the completion of the primer, you can not pause, as before puttying, but immediately proceed to seal the strobe channel with gypsum plaster. First, the cable is fixed, for which ordinary building gypsum is used, which is kneaded in a minimal amount, since you can only work with it normally for a few minutes. In this process, you should try to fasten the cable as tightly as possible at intervals of no more than 1 meter, and in places of internal and external corners of the walls, you should retreat from the angle of 3-5 cm on both sides.

After that, the work gypsum plaster. which incorporates special polymer fillers, which allows you to avoid cracks on the walls in the future and increases the period of work with the material up to 1-2 hours. The technological channel is completely filled with a thick mixture in a section of 1-2 meters, after which the excess plaster is removed with a metal spatula by moving along (!) the channel.

You can start painting a wall or ceiling with in-depth wiring immediately after setting the gypsum composition, as a rule, it is 12-24 hours.

Video

If you perceive information better on video, then we offer a short video, which presents the simplest technology strobe seals -

Questions and answers

How long after coating the strobes with a primer can they be plastered?

Immediately, since in this case the primer is needed not so much to reduce absorption and strengthen the strobe bed, but to dedust the channel. If you want to wait - wait, but you can not waste time.

We close the strobes correctly

Greetings to all visitors! The topic of today's lesson may seem to be sucked from your finger, but in fact, few people know how to close strobes correctly.

A strobe is a kind of groove in concrete, brick or plaster used for laying wires or pipes. It is clear that after laying the appropriate communications, this groove must be sealed.

It would seem that it could be complicated here - he stuffed a solution into it, and removed the excess with a spatula. But the other day I saw with my own eyes that wild horror that is depicted in the photo for the post, and decided to write a short article about it. strobe and different kind holes - not a difficult task, but still requiring compliance with certain rules. What kind?

The first rule is the need for priming

The first and most important rule is not to forget about the primer. The small area of a strobe or hole does not yet give us the right to neglect its use. But what is the right way to do it? Very simple - with a brush. It needs to be thoroughly wetted in a primer and watered small areas of the strobe. Do not smear, namely water, something like sprinkling with holy water. The primer is not to be regretted. So we can process the entire surface of the groove or hole, no matter if it has a pipe or wire. Ignoring the priming process can lead to cracks and subsequent shedding of the plaster. By the way, you need to prime not only the inside of the grooves, but also the place around them.

The second rule is a special solution application technique

Closing the strobe and inserting the boxes - which is better?

07/21/2007 at 03:12 #11

User J.Walker wrote:

Before kneading, I added 15-20% teplon to the alabaster. Slows down hardening from 3 to 10-15 minutes. It is more convenient to work. Less time to spend on kneading and washing gypsum plaster.

You can use the whole plaster (the savings between alabaster and Rotband / Teplon are cheap). All the same, all the distribution boxes and socket boxes (tens or hundreds of pieces) are set up first, so that in these few hours everything will have time to grab and you can lay the wiring.

User Vladimir_Vas wrote:

Sources:

Fighting rats and mice: To get rid of rats or mice, you need to make balls from a special test and put them in their habitats. Melt two parts of fat, add seven parts of flour and three parts of barium carbonate to it.

24.11.2013, 19:28

24.11.2013, 21:20

Quote([email protected], 21:37)

find another plasterer (normal) - otherwise many more questions will arise

and ha She herself needs to blow out the extra holes)))

Costa Rica

24.11.2013, 23:09

Quote([email protected], 21:28)

Then Nafig all the putty Will fall off In hell And take off the Wallpaper!

in the second photo, white connects two boxes, and in the third, the old wiring

too kind

25.11.2013, 21:27

Because they don’t close up the strobes in the walls with mounting foam :)
That is why it is called assembly, which is used when installing door-windows. I xs how to explain, but I smeared my strobes with a rotband. Well, even if you foam, then you have to cut it evenly and evenly in order to glue the wallpaper.

26.11.2013, 23:54

After wiring the electricians, there were impressive recesses in the walls, advise what is the best way to repair them? The plasterer says seal it yourself with foam, a friend says it’s expensive with foam, better with a rotband, in the end, how is it right and should it be primed and in what sequence?
Close the cable with corrugation or something else?

It is best to close up the strobes with gypsum plaster (optimally with Rotband). Priming is optional, so as not to spend money on a primer once again. Well, if you don’t feel sorry for the money, then first it’s natural to prime, then plaster. It is advisable to remove from horizontal, especially from deep strobes, products of chasing in the form of dust and dirt before covering. It is not necessary to close the corrugation. If the strobes are deep, then the cable could be laid in the corrugation along the entire length of the strobe, with the prospect of changing it if something happens, though if you manage to pull it out of the embedded corrugation.

Costa Rica

29.11.2013, 9:53

The plasterer said if what stones to put and cover up

I saw they interfered with cement .. But it was the walls that were plastered .. TS, what's the problem? Rotband expensive? Take an alternative for example Found

Costa Rica

29.11.2013, 17:47

I wouldn’t delve into this issue at all, if it weren’t for the plasterer, I was told that very large recesses need to be repaired with something

29.11.2013, 18:10

29.11.2013, 18:21

Quote( [email protected] @ 29.11.2013, 19:10)

Buy then MP75 if you want to save money. Well, or more expensive goldband.

Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013 6:47 pm)

Yes, they have already smeared everything with a rotband, calm down

Great topic)))

29.11.2013, 20:15

Quote( [email protected] @ 29.11.2013, 21:02)

crappy plasterer you have biggrin.gif

I agree))). Before it's too late, find another.

What is the best way to attach the wire to
strobe? On the site http://krepcom.ru/blog/sposoby-krepleniya/chem-krepit-provod-v-shtrobe/
Read some tips
I don't know which is better. tell
how right.

24.11.2013, 20:28

Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/24/2013 8:28 PM)

Close the cable with corrugation or something else?

depends on which one is laid, look at the cable marking, then check its characteristics on the internet for intra-wall laying, especially the white wiring is of interest.

and another moment - how many wires go in the strobe in the last photo? Are there too many of them thrown together there? maybe you should expand the strobe first and fix them separately? Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/24/2013 11:09 PM)

explain in more detail why? what about the doorway? he's stuck

then the platband is placed, and not the wallpaper Quote ([email protected], 22:35)

Cement-sand mixture, and handles ...

Is that cement with sugar or what? if you meant a cement-sand mixture, then it’s easier with foam Quote (Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 10:53)

I have never heard that pebbles were added to the rotband
I think it's not worth saving on a rotband
My brain is blown!
If I thought how to cover up the strobe ...... Quote (Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013, 10:53)

thanks for the answers, well, since you can’t mix the rotband with something with foam?

How is the strobe sealed with mortar after wiring installation?

the plasterer said if the pebbles are what to put and cover up

Why all these difficulties? material savings? Quote(Costa Rica @ 11/29/2013 10:53 AM)

thanks for the answers, well, since you can’t mix the rotband with something with foam?

Miser pays twice. Lay the foam rubber, and do not forget about the reinforcing bandage. Quote([email protected], 11:58)

If I thought how to cover up the strobe ......

1
Quote(Vanё[email protected], 12:09)

Why all these difficulties? material savings?

On the topic - he strobilized himself, he "lozhil" the wiring himself, he himself with sand smeared at home...

You have a crappy plasterer

oooh…. Can you add sand? sugar ... =)))

by the way, familiar finishers plaster large volumes with a rotband with sand in half, once they adopted their experience - plastering with such a mixture is no worse than just a rotband, only puttying later because of the stones that come across in the sand, but under the tiles in the bath with nothing I'm in the way, all of a sudden Quote (Fuel @ 11/29/2013, 11:38 PM)

by the way, familiar finishers plaster large volumes with a rotband with sand in half

So you can sift the sand ... Quote (VanёK @ 1.12.2013, 9:20)

a kilo of rotbant is cheaper than a kilo of sugar)))
So you can sift the sand ...

Yes, it’s probably easier to pick pebbles than to sow half a ton of sand)), it’s advisable if the plaster layer is 5-10 cm, it happens)

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Competent sealing of the strobe

Rule number 2. The application of the solution for embedding the strobe is carried out in a special way. First, immediately before applying the solution, the surface of the groove must be generously moistened with water. This is done in order to reduce the absorption of water from the solution. Thus, we reduce its shrinkage and prevent the appearance of shrinkage cracks. Silicate brick and foam concrete take moisture from the plaster especially strongly. But some shrinkage of the solution, as a rule, still occurs. Therefore, the steps described below must be performed twice.

How should the solution be applied?

How to close strobes for wiring - step by step instructions

For starters, its consistency is made a little thicker than with plaster. Again, so that less moisture leaves it, and it does not sag. It is applied crosswise. That is, movements with a spatula should not be directed along the strobe, but towards its walls. First to one, then to another. So the solution will adhere well to its entire surface.