Insulation of a brick bath from the inside and outside with your own hands. Insulation of a brick bath from the inside Insulation of the steam room from the inside step by step instructions brick wall

The established traditions, the health-improving result of bath procedures, the method of spending leisure time - this is just a small list of arguments in favor of your bath. However, someone may have a question, is it necessary to insulate it, because you have to heat it irregularly, once a week?

The answer is obvious, since when arranging this building, homeowners often face such a problem as slow heating and rapid cooling of bath compartments. To figure out how to insulate brick bath inside, you need to know the parameters of the building material from which the walls are laid out. For thermal insulation of the bath, it is recommended to insulate brick partitions, ceilings and floors inside and outside the building.

Brickwork with insulation inside

Features of thermal insulation

If we compare brick with other materials from which walls are mounted, for example, with wood or foam concrete, then, of course, brick walls are more thermally conductive. Therefore, you need to know how to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath. The main layer is made of heat-insulating plates, and the additional layer is made of rolled material with a foil layer coating. This thermal protection perfectly reflects infrared radiation and protects the insulation from wet evaporation.

To insulate and waterproof a brick bath, you need to start doing this already during the construction of wall structures. They absorb moisture well, therefore, the walls should not come into contact with the ground, for which the basement is protected with roofing material.

The procedure for warming the partitions of the bath department practically does not differ from the thermal insulation of other rooms.

But there are still some features:

1. Before the walls are insulated, the windows are first insulated. For which, by means of a sealant, all the voids between the window block and the wall are filled.
2. The insulating material is fastened either with a special adhesive or with an umbrella dowel. Metal fastening material in these buildings is allowed to be used, but on condition that it cannot be contacted.
3. In the case of an uneven surface, it will be necessary to first level them by plastering or applying drywall. To make sure that the wall is defective, it is enough to stretch the fishing line and if the difference is greater than the thickness of the insulation, then alignment of the structures is necessary.

Brick is a special material that, without proper insulation, cannot keep a high temperature for a long time, so you need to correctly, following all the recommendations, insulate the steam room in a brick bath. So that after installing thermal insulation in the steam room, the temperature can quickly rise and keep warm for a long time.

Thermal insulation scheme

Materials and tools

Now there is a large selection of heaters on the market, and we must remember that bath procedures will bring a healing effect only when natural products are used inside the bath. At the same time, the following requirements are put forward for thermal insulation products:

• Environmental friendliness of the heater. At elevated temperatures and high humidity, insulation can release toxic substances. Therefore, before warming the bath, this indicator must be taken very carefully;
• Hydroscopicity. The insulation should not get wet during operation;
• Thermal conductivity. The lower the coefficient of this material, the less heat passes through this product for a certain period of time;
• biological inertia. There should be no impact of harmful impurities on the human body;
• fire safety;
• The ability to maintain its shape;
• Budget cost and easy installation.

Comparison of heaters according to different parameters

To understand which insulation is best for a bath, you need to know their parameters. Let's consider in more detail.

organic heaters

For a long time this material was used to keep warm in the Russian bath. The indisputable advantage of this heater is its naturalness and availability. But there are also many disadvantages:

1. fire hazard;
2. High hygroscopicity;
3. Difficulty in application;
4. Rodent exposure.

In this regard, the use of organic insulation goes into oblivion and is used very rarely.

Thermal insulation materials from semi-organic

In these natural products, synthetic or adhesive compounds are used during manufacture.

They belong to:

• Reed slabs;
• Peat slabs.

Such insulating materials can be used to insulate the outside of the bath with additional protection from precipitation, but they cannot be used from the inside on the walls of the steam rooms.

organic heaters

Synthetic insulation

These products are manufactured under production conditions and are divided into two types:

• Polymers. Among them are polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.

It is impossible to insulate the bath inside, especially in the steam room, with such material, since the foam at high temperatures releases a harmful substance - styrene. However, outside for thermal insulation of the building - this is ideal.

Penoizol. This is a foil heat-insulating material used in the steam room. Is an exception to the polymer materials due to its reflective properties.

Foil insulation

Mineral wool. Basalt wool and glass wool belong to this group. Their advantage is fire safety and resistance to thermal insulation. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity, which leads to the use of films.

Basalt wool is an environmentally friendly material that is recommended for use in steam rooms and saunas. Having chosen a suitable insulation, you need to purchase related materials, as well as prepare a tool.

On a note! For cladding, it is desirable to use boards made of alder or linden. Wood of such species is immune to water and neutral to high temperatures.

In case you are planning to do concrete screed for the floor, then the list of material will increase, including the following products:

• Mesh for reinforcement;
• Composition for pouring the screed (sand, water, cement);
• damper tape;
• Lighthouses.

For external backfilling of the ceiling, you will need expanded clay and powdered polyurethane.

Tool

From the tool you need to prepare:

• A circular saw;
• Perforator;
• Level;
• Hacksaw;
• Fasteners (nails, screws).

Materials and tools for insulation

When installing the facing material, the heads of nails and self-tapping screws must be deepened inside the boards in order to avoid burns from accidental contact during bathing procedures.

External and internal thermal insulation

Before you start insulating a brick bath inside with your own hands, you need to prepare the surfaces: close the cracks, wooden crafts cover with antiseptic.

Then follow the steps step by step:

• Step #1 Saw the bars and make a crate with a step slightly less than the width of the insulation, and then attach it to the brick wall, having previously drilled holes with a perforator (the cross-section of the timber must correspond to the thickness of the insulation).
• Step #2 Lay out the plates in the prepared cells.
• Step #3 Apply a vapor barrier film on top. You need to lay it with a launch of 5 cm on each side. As a rule, a foil coating is used in the steam room. The waterproofing sheet at the joints must be sealed with aluminum tape for better tightness. And also close the joints between the beam and the insulation, while capturing at least 5 cm from the side of the insulation.
• Step #4 For better conservation vapor barrier and giving a ventilation gap, a frame of slats 20 mm thick under the lining is mounted on top of it. It is recommended to do it with a vertical arrangement of the strips, so that in the future the condensate can freely drain between the facing and vapor barrier material.
• Step #5 Lined with clapboard or simple planed boards (at the same time they are attached to the crate in a horizontal position). Attach the sheathing material in such a way as not to damage the vapor barrier layer.

Warming brick bath

Attention! The procedure for sealing the joints between the vapor barrier layers and the joints of the insulation with the timber is very important - the penetration of moisture into the insulation depends on it.

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath are made of wood or concrete. The technology for applying insulation does not have big differences depending on the material used to make the floor.

The only thing that when constructing a concrete structure is to pour an increased layer of expanded clay. At the same time, it is customary to compare its thickness with the width of the walls, and pour, about twice as thick a layer.

If (in the case of a strip foundation), then you need to do the following:

• Treat the walls with a preparation for waterproofing;
• Pour sand 10 cm thick, spill it with water and tamp;
• Cover this layer with roofing material with an overlap of 15 cm on the walls.

And then fall asleep expanded clay.

Scheme of floor insulation in a brick bath

Ceiling insulation

The imposition of a heat-insulating layer on the ceiling is, in fact, the same as on the walls. It is only necessary to bear in mind some features in this case. Since hot air tends to rise, the thermal insulation layer becomes thicker than on the walls. This is usually achieved by adding a ceiling covering on top, and a foil sheet and facing material is laid inside.

Insulation of the bath from the outside

It is imperative to insulate a brick bath, since this wall material has a high thermal conductivity. In this regard, it takes a long time to warm up the room without external insulation, while there will be increased fuel consumption.

The scheme of applying the insulating layer is standard:

1. crate;
2. insulation;
3. Facing.

From materials for external thermal insulation, moss, reed mats, glass wool, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, foamed glass and other organic and synthetic heaters can be used.

For sheathing, different Decoration Materials or siding. It is also possible to cover the outside of the bath with plaster if foam boards were used as an insulating layer. Here, a mesh is applied on top of this material, primed and then the walls are plastered.

Scheme of insulation of a brick wall outside

Basic Mistakes

In the steam section, the temperature reaches up to 95 degrees, and it must be held for such a long time - this is the purpose of the Russian bath. But sometimes, during the construction and improvement of this structure, mistakes are made that can drastically affect the proper functioning of the bath.
Here are the most common ones:

Mistake #1. During the construction of brick walls, the seam joints are not completely sealed, and as a result, a powerful cold bridge is created from all the unfilled seams of the wall. Sometimes it almost completely nullifies the insulation of the walls.

Mistake #2. Facing boards are stuffed immediately on the insulation crate. This, firstly, violates the integrity of the vapor barrier layer. Secondly, there is no guaranteed gap between the skin and the reflective sheet. In both cases, this threatens the penetration of moisture, wetting of the insulation and the appearance of mold on the crate.

Mistake #3. The cladding material is attached with nails or screws with non-recessed heads, as a result of contact with them, you can get burned.

If, when warming a brick bath, you follow the entire technology of this process and avoid the listed mistakes, then the procedures carried out in the bath will be really healing and strengthening your body.

From the point of view of the formation of the required microclimate and the durability of the building, the use of bricks for the construction of a bath is economically justified. Whatever the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath, the requirements for moisture transfer and permissible moisture accumulation are provided in almost 100% of cases, regardless of the selected insulating sandwich scheme. Even if the principle of a consistent increase in vapor permeability in the direction from the steam room to the street is violated, the high level of permissible moisture accumulation in the brick compensates for this disadvantage. However, in addition to optimizing moisture transfer, there are a number of other specific requirements for the insulation of brick baths, which will be discussed in the article.

Brick load-bearing walls are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and heat capacity, acting in these properties as the complete opposite of log cabins.

We carry out warming of a brick bath from the inside, only at the stove we do not forget about fire safety

Unlike thermal insulation of residential premises, it makes no sense to insulate a bath from ceramic or silicate bricks from the outside. For buildings with periodic heating, the heat capacity plays a negative role, since it requires more time for heating. For this reason, the main thermal insulating layer in brick baths should be placed exclusively as part of the inner sandwich.

Wall sandwich scheme

You can find recommendations for warming brick baths with the help of internal masonry made of wooden beams with a section of 100 × 100 mm, on top of which a layer of mineral wool is mounted. This begs the question: why mess with brick at all if the first layer of such insulation is a strong enough wall for a one-story building? This scheme is not feasible from an economic point of view.

How to insulate a brick bath without investing extra money and effort in it? The right solution from all points of view is the use of three materials: a waterproofing membrane, insulation wool and an infrared screen made of aluminum foil. Taking into account the air gaps, the layers in the sandwich should be arranged in the following order from the inside to the outside of the bath:

• decorative interior trim (lining, grooved board, etc.);
• gap 1 - 2 cm;
• folgoizol, oriented with the reflective side inward;
• mineral wool (slabs or roll material 10 cm thick);
• waterproofing membrane.

Insulation of a brick bath is easy to carry out from the inside with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. To do this, it is quite enough to confidently own a drill, stapler, hacksaw and screwdriver, as well as have enough free time. First, a membrane is attached to the load-bearing wall. Then a vertical crate is mounted, with a thickness equal to the insulation layer or exceeding it by 1 - 2 cm. Cotton wool is laid inside the crate, after which the foil isol is attached to the bars with a stapler. It is better that the strips overlap. The joints of the foil material are insulated with special tape. A horizontal rail is stuffed over the infrared screen, which serves as a support for the finish and a base for the formation of an air gap.

Expanded polystyrene can be used as the main heat-insulating layer, subject to two conditions:

1. As an infrared screen, a material is used that has an inner surface of polyethylene foam with a thickness of at least 1 cm.
2. An air gap of at least 2 cm must be maintained between the screen surface and the expanded polystyrene plates.

Due to these measures, foam plastic or foam plastic does not heat up to the permissible limit of + 75 ° C, even if the temperature in the steam room reaches temperatures above + 90 ° C. The slabs are glued to the inner surface of the brick wall, and the waterproofing membrane is excluded from the sandwich.

Correction of insulation and ventilation by efflorescence

Efflorescence can be removed with special means

By themselves, efflorescence on brickwork is not a problem for a load-bearing wall, but they may indicate a malfunction of the insulation scheme, leading to a violation of moisture transfer. V winter period the partial pressure of gases dissolved in water increases. The capillary movement of the liquid through the thickness of the brick increases in the direction from heat to cold. Internal condensation and capillary flow cause waterlogging of the layer located 2-3 cm from outer surface walls.

At sub-zero temperatures, waterlogging is not evident due to the freezing of bricks from the side of the street. In the spring, the condensate accumulated during the winter begins to intensively stand out on the surface, carrying water-soluble salts with it.

If efflorescence is equally formed on all walls, then the reasons may lie in the quality of the brick, the composition of the mortar, and the violation of the masonry technology. However, in the case of localization of salts on individual walls of the bathhouse and their sections, it makes sense to revise the insulating sandwich, provided that the influence of the unsuccessful design of ebbs on the process is excluded. It is necessary to do this in order to align the operating mode along the entire bearing perimeter in order to increase the life of the building.

On a wall with intense efflorescence, you should:

• add foil insulation if it has not been installed earlier, or eliminate possible defects in this layer (for example, poor-quality sealing of joints);
• provide a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier and the main thermal insulation;
• add an exhaust vent.

Insulation of the floor and ceiling of a brick bath

The execution of load-bearing walls made of brick does not carry any conclusions regarding the method of insulating the floor and ceiling. The design of thermal protection of horizontal planes depends solely on the design of the foundation, subfloor, ceiling and under-roof space. Consider only the most common design options for these surfaces in brick baths.

Concrete draft floor on the ground

The device of a warm floor in baths on the ground

Today, the most popular option for insulating a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the use of 10 cm thick expanded polystyrene boards. There is no need to arrange waterproofing between the insulation and concrete, provided that the joints of the XPS boards are carefully sealed. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the expanded polystyrene and a screed 3–5 cm thick is poured on top. On top of the screed, if non-waterproof concrete was used for it, waterproofing is arranged and a plank floor is mounted. In dressing rooms and rest rooms it is recommended to revet the floor ceramic tiles. To eliminate cold bridges, along the perimeter of the walls, the finishing screed must be isolated from the base with a vertical layer of expanded polystyrene.

The second common way to insulate a concrete subfloor is the use of expanded clay backfills. Since a significant thickness of this material is required (at least 20 cm), bars of the appropriate section impregnated with a composition that prevents decay are installed on top of the concrete. After backfilling, finishing logs are stuffed onto the beam to install a plank floor. Under the finishing floor with such a scheme, it is mandatory to lay two types of membranes - windproof and waterproof. Between the expanded clay layer and the wind protection, it is necessary to provide an air gap of at least 5 cm.

Internal ceiling insulation

Further (in the direction upwards), subject to the use of a flat plank ceiling, the main heat-shielding layer is located - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Between mineral wool and boards lay a layer of waterproofing.

Regardless of the design of the ceiling and the type of under-roof space, the two inner layers of thermal protection of the ceiling are no different from the equipment of the walls. This finishing from lumber and a foil infrared screen, located taking into account the air gap relative to the cladding.

External ceiling insulation

If the ceiling is made from wooden beams large section (at least 30 cm), the main insulation layer is located on the side of the roof space. Expanded clay or eco-wool is poured between the beams. Another common option is to use cellular concrete screeds filled with sawdust or straw. A layer of waterproofing material is necessarily laid on top of the backfill insulation.

Video: the practice of budgetary internal insulation of a brick bath

It makes sense to solve some issues of warming baths of this type even before the start of construction. This will avoid overspending of materials and save money.

1. Since the heat capacity of a brick is an unclaimed resource during the operation of baths, and the thickness of this material has almost no effect on thermal protection, it makes no sense to make thick load-bearing walls. One brick laying is more than sufficient.
2. When choosing a heater, it makes no sense to proceed from the degree of its fire safety, because the finishing interior is still made of a combustible material - wood.
3. If you choose the arrangement of the furnace with its adjoining to a brick wall, you should not try to insulate this area from the inside or outside. All the same, from the inside, the temperature will not allow you to do this, and from the side of the street you will not eliminate cold bridges. Instead of completely adjoining the furnace to the wall, it is better to use an asbestos and steel screen as an intermediate layer. picnic

Novice builders mistakenly assume that the construction of a bath ends with the construction of walls and the installation of a stove. But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated. Many claim that a brick building does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of bricks, but this is nothing more than a myth. A well-insulated bathhouse is much warmer from the inside.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will consider all the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath.

We warm the floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, and waterproofing. Here it is important to observe two fundamental rules:

1. When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties. It should let steam through, not create the greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.
2. Lay all layers of insulation tightly to each other, avoiding the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you with long discussions about possible heaters, we will say right away that polystyrene is an ideal option for warming the foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and characteristics of the base. For protection against high humidity most often use expanded clay. This material perfectly copes with its "duties" and significantly reduces costs. Conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the thickness of the layer should be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

• we lay the gyro-insulating layer;
• we lay thick foam sheets, strictly observing the dimensions;
• we reinforce and tighten the floor with a fill;
• lay the floor.

Now it remains only to wait until the solution seizes and you can proceed to the next step.

We heat-insulate the walls

To make the process not troublesome and enjoyable, you need to take care of this at the construction stage. A cobbled crate is installed in the steam room, on which the heat material is fixed. Thus, you protect the insulation from deformation and slipping during operation. If you decide to opt for a loose version, then do not forget to fill up the cracks.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out thermal insulation in several passes, allowing the limestone mortar to grab and dry. If you opted for slabs, then put them between the finish and the wall. Most often, foam is used for insulation inside. One of its sides is covered with foil, which reflects heat and warms up the bath much faster. In addition, foil insulation has undeniable advantages. It withstands high temperatures and does not collapse from sudden changes, does not allow moisture to pass through.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stop at mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to cotton wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we produce wall cladding inside the bath. Natural material - wood - is used as a cladding.

We insulate the ceiling

Physical processes make it necessary to carefully approach the thermal insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is lighter and rises to the top, it must not be allowed to escape through the ceiling cracks. There is no strong difference between the insulation of the ceiling and the walls, the only thing that needs to be done more carefully and used together is both loose and tiled material. For sheathing, use the same material as for the walls. The uniform style of the room will create a cozy atmosphere.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: thermal insulation of a brick bath

But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated.

How to insulate the steam room in the bath with your own hands?

Everyone understands perfectly well what a steam room in a bath is. This is a room with high temperature and humidity. And, therefore, its insulation will have to present large and stringent requirements. And it doesn’t matter if a bathhouse is built from timber, bricks, foam blocks or in a frame way. Warming of the entire structure, and especially the steam room, is a prerequisite.

But when it comes to thermal insulation from the inside, the material from which the building is erected comes to the fore. The thing is that different building materials have different thermal conductivity, because there is an opportunity to save on some additional materials. This will be discussed in this article.

Where to begin

So, first of all, the thermal conductivity of the material from which the walls of the bath are built is determined. Most often it is wood in the form of timber (logs) or block material: foam blocks, cinder blocks or bricks:

Advice! Rooms in which there is high humidity and temperature are best insulated from the inside. This is especially true for the steam bath. The thing is that this building is rarely heated, so at the moment when the heating is turned off, it freezes to the interior. And it doesn’t matter if it is built from foam blocks or from a bar.

Choosing a heater

Now the main question is, what kind of insulation is best for thermal insulation of the steam room? Everything will depend on what budget is allocated for these works. But it is better not to save on them. Although acceptable and inexpensive options there is always.

Experts recommend using inexpensive mineral wool for these purposes in slabs with a thickness of at least 70 mm. This thickness is the best option that will withstand any low temperatures from the street. Some believe that for a log house made of timber and for a structure made of foam blocks, the thickness of the heat insulator can be reduced.

You should not be led by someone, the difference in thickness will be noticeable, but the price range will practically not change. So it would be right to take a heater with a margin.

Mineral wool has one drawback - it is afraid of moisture. With constant exposure, the heat insulator loses its characteristics. It turns yellow, begins to crumble, bald spots appear, entire sections crumble. Therefore, it is worth taking care of vapor barrier.

Unfortunately, not all vapor barrier materials will perform well in conditions of high temperatures and high humidity. For example, synthetic membranes will simply begin to burst under the influence of repeated heating and cooling. Therefore, the only choice is aluminum foil.

Foil is a thin rolled material made of aluminum with a thickness of 30-300 microns. As mentioned above, its main purpose is a vapor barrier, therefore, laid on a heater, it should create a monolithic surface that cuts off the interior from the heat insulator.

The maximum roll width is 1.5 m. Of course, this size cannot cover the entire surface of the insulated wall or ceiling with one strip, so the foil strips are overlapped (with an offset of 20 cm), and the joints are closed with special aluminum tape.

Advice! Foil manufacturers today offer self-adhesive tape immediately in the kit. It is worth giving preference to this particular tandem. In this case, full compatibility of the two materials will be guaranteed.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the aluminum foil used to insulate the sauna steam room from the inside is also a heat-insulating layer. How? It reflects up to 97% of thermal radiation. So the foil performs its functions over 100%.

Warming technology

Immediately make a reservation that mineral wool is laid only on the crate. And, it doesn’t matter if it’s a bathhouse made of timber, foam blocks or bricks. But there is also a difference:

1. Insulation of a log cabin from a bar from the inside is carried out without applying waterproofing.
2. But the structure of brickwork or foam blocks from the inside must be insulated. The easiest option is to apply bituminous mastic.

Mounting sequence

• The first step is waterproofing. For brick and block masonry - this is a prerequisite.
• The elements of the crate are installed. The best option is a vertical frame made of timber with dimensions of 70x70 mm. Thus, the insulation will completely occupy the space from the wall to the edges of the crate.
• Installation of aluminum foil.
• Clapboard trim.

As you can see, in order to properly insulate the steam room from the inside in the bath, you just need to choose the right installation technology and the insulation itself. Everything else is almost the same with slight differences, both for a log house made of timber, and for a bath made of brickwork or foam blocks.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands and correctly

The choice of options for how to insulate a steam room in a bath is not so great. The best option is aluminum foil or foil materials. The laying technology is simple.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room in a brick bath

Building your own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of bath walls.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Bath made of silicate bricks

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is now not particularly difficult. The main requirement is to do everything neatly and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact between bricks and the ground. Before you insulate a brick bath, you should decide on the option of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several options for thermal insulation:

• baths, lined with insulation in the form of plates;

Mineral wool insulation

• baths with an air cushion in the wall;

Hollows in the wall

• baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

backfill wall

With slab insulation

Warming the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

• drill holes in the seams;

• insert wooden plugs into the holes;

Some are even ready for sale.

• a frame made of metal profile or from wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic;

• fasten on the rails of the insulation plate;

• close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;

• perform the final finishing of the clapboard.

The insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.

Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt slab fits perfectly

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use of well brickwork and backfill.

Work instructions:

• perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;

• as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;

• after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully rammed;

• the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;

• complete the laying, performing 3-4 rows of a continuous type of brickwork;

• if in the future the wall will not be plastered, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, then the seams should be left unfilled by 10-15 mm.

We make the seams even

If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.

This will not only improve appearance masonry, but also keep the brick from moisture saturation.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Warming the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling should be insulated in the same way.

To work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

by the most simple option to insulate the ceiling, a mixture of straw and clay will be used as a heater, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always cheap way the best.

Finishing

The inner lining of the steam room is usually made of wood materials. It is considered ideal lining made of linden or aspen. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

A more practical option is to use pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Examples various kinds lining

If you have made the insulation of a brick bath from the inside correctly, then you will not have a draft or condensation, but only a pleasant aroma of wood and a feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can steam!

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of warming, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, price, photo Warming of a steam room in a brick bath

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, price, photo

Insulation of a steam room made of wood and brick

The main task of the steam room in the bath is to achieve the effect of a thermos. And if the steam room "does not hold" steam, then all your efforts will be in vain. If in a wooden bath a good vapor barrier is already achieved due to the material, then the warming of a steam room in a brick bath is a serious process.

If you decide to build such a useful and pleasant building for a Russian person on your site, then the first thing you should think about is the insulation of the walls, floor and ceiling, so that the microclimate in this room corresponds to the established concepts.

The process of wall insulation in the steam room.

Steam room in a wooden bath

Though wooden house already in itself perfectly retains heat, additional insulation will not hurt here. In order to ensure complete thermal insulation of the steam room, a layer of insulating materials should be laid under the floor, in the gaps between the logs and in the space between the roof and the ceiling.

Choosing a heater

Insulation for a steam bath should be chosen carefully:

1. The most common method of insulation using inexpensive and non-toxic substances - fiberglass or mineral basalt wool. In addition, such materials are absolutely non-combustible.

When carrying out work, protect the eyes and skin of the face, hands from the smallest particles of these substances, which can cause severe irritation.

1. Some use expanded polystyrene for these purposes, which distinguishes low price . In this case, it is undesirable to use it, since it is combustible, and we are dealing with a wooden structure.

This material can successfully carry out the insulation of the loggia, but in the case of wooden bath better to play it safe.

We warm the floor

Bath pit.

The average temperature in a Russian steam bath ranges from 65-90˚C. Moreover, this temperature level must be maintained for a long time. Therefore, first of all, you should achieve minimal heat loss through the floor in the bath, for which it should be insulated. It is the floor insulation in the steam room that is the first stage of work, since it is carried out even before the construction of the building.

Consider how to insulate the floor in the steam room.

The instruction consists of the following steps:

• A pit should be dug under the bath, the depth of which should be about 50 cm.
• First of all, we pour a layer of sand into the pit, about 5 cm thick.
• Next, we lay the foam, which should have a thickness of at least 20 cm.
• Next comes the cement mortar, which is mixed with foam chips in a 1: 1 ratio. Its thickness should be about 5 cm.
• After pouring the cement solution mixed with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1, with a layer of 5 cm.
• We lay a reinforcing mesh on top with a cell of 10 by 10 cm.
• The reinforcement should be poured with an ordinary concrete solution, the layer thickness of which is 5 cm.

When laying the last layer of concrete, achieve a slope of 5 degrees towards the future water flow.

The reinforcing mesh is poured with concrete.

• Concrete floor ready. On top of it, it is already possible to lay a wooden floor, while leaving gaps through which water will drain and the room will be ventilated.

We insulate the ceiling

1. We start internal work from the ceiling, covering it with a layer of clean paper.
2. Bars should be strengthened on paper, which are slightly thicker than the layer of insulation for the bath.
3. We put a heater, which we press with retaining strips.

Thermal insulation of the steam room: a schematic representation

We insulate the walls

Wall insulation is similar to previous ceiling insulation work.

Deciduous wood paneling is most often used as wall and ceiling cladding, since this material does not emit resin under the influence of high temperatures.

Insulation of a brick bath

Despite the fact that brick is not very popular in the construction of bath rooms, nevertheless, such a building can be an excellent alternative to a traditional log cabin. You can insulate a brick bath well with your own hands, while the result of the work will meet all expectations.

In this case, special attention should be paid to the steam room, because it is this room that is the “holy of holies” of the traditional Russian bath.

The main stages of thermal insulation of a brick bath

The procedure for warming the floor in a brick steam room is similar to the complex of works carried out for wooden buildings.

Wall insulation in a brick steam room is carried out already at the stage of their laying.

Since the brick tends to absorb water well, the walls laid out from this material should not touch the ground.

To do this, the base is pasted over with roofing material, or coated with mastic, which consists of talc, bitumen, asbestos and lime.

1. Walls should be laid out with well masonry. It is made in half a brick in two rows. Such a wall should be no more than 40 cm thick.
2. The gap between the rows should be provided for about 15 cm, it is thanks to him that thermal insulation will be provided.
3. In between should be placed a layer of light insulation. An excellent option would be expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc.

Nowadays, the insulation of the walls of the steam room by this method is increasingly being done using modern materials, which include mineral wool and polystyrene. They can be glued or installed by surprise, precisely fitting the dimensions of the cavity to be filled.

The photo shows the insulation of the well masonry with ecowool.

Walls insulated with this method are not completely protected from heat loss. To do this, it is necessary to make wall cladding from the inside.

Sheathing the walls from the inside

If you are interested in how to properly insulate a steam room, then you should know that without internal wall cladding it is impossible to achieve really high-quality insulation of a bath.

Internal thermal insulation of the walls in the bath

1. Using self-tapping screws on a brick wall should be fixed wooden slats with a step of 50 cm. It is on them that the lining will be attached.
2. We lay the gaps between the slats with a thin layer of sheet or roll insulation. It is best to use mineral wool for this purpose.
3. The insulation should be covered with foil, the main purpose of which is to ensure the proper level of waterproofing.
4. After that, the walls are sheathed with clapboard.

Ceiling insulation with foam.

The insulation of the ceiling in the steam room should be more dense than in the case of walls. The fact is that warm air tends to constantly strive upward, which means that heat loss through the ceiling can be very large. Therefore, here the heater should not be spared.

Scheme: thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Advice! In order to insulate the ceiling of the bath from the side of the roof, the easiest way is to use a 15-cm layer of mineral wool covering the entire ceiling surface.

Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in the steam room from the inside:

1. We lay vapor barrier foil on the floor boards. Carefully glue it with aluminum tape. Ideally, there should not be even the smallest gap between the ceiling surface and the foil.
2. Styrofoam plates should be laid on the foil, the gaps between which should be sealed with mounting foam.
3. We mount sheets of facing material.

Conclusion

In this article, you learned how to insulate a steam room from the inside. As you can see, with the right approach, this procedure is not difficult, but you should approach the warming of the steam room with all consciousness, since negligence in work will significantly affect the properties of this room.

Proper thermal insulation of the steam room is no less important than insulation plastic windows in an apartment, when poor-quality work becomes very noticeable with the advent of cold weather.

Steam room insulation: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of work in a brick bath, how to properly insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, price, photo

Steam room insulation: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of work in a brick bath, how to properly insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, price,

How to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath

We do the finishing of the steam room in a brick bath with our own hands

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the steam room for maintaining health, vigor, Have a good mood. Pleasant steam and heat that affect the human body contribute to the removal of toxins and slags from it, an oak or birch broom provides the highest quality of all types of massage, saturates the body with natural herbal medicinal substances. Such a struggle with various ailments, of course, is much more pleasant than bitter pills and physiotherapy procedures carried out in a hospital physical room. Therefore, almost every owner of a country house seeks to build a bathhouse with a steam room on his site.

The dimensions of the sauna house and the layout of the steam room

Although the dimensions of the bath may be different, the dimensions of the steam room, the methods of its construction and decoration must fully comply with the canons of the bath. Build a steam room too big size in the face of rising fuel prices, it is unlikely to be advisable: inside a large room it will be quite difficult to maintain an optimal temperature and humidity regime.

• if several people are supposed to stay in the steam room at the same time, then each of them should have 2-3 sq.m of space
• ceiling height should be planned about 2.1 m - 2.3 m.

Windows in the steam room should not be made - a space unprotected by thermal insulation will require an increase in the amount of heat given off by the stove, and therefore an increase in fuel costs. In addition, a window as a ventilation element, as it was in the old days, is also not required - the room will be heated in white, i.e. soot and smoke will be removed from it through the ventilation ducts.

The layout of the rooms in the bath should be well thought out, it should provide for the possibility of heating this bath house using a stove installed in the steam room. A rational option can be considered the following location of the premises:

• the locker room should follow the vestibule,
• next can be a rest room,
• from it it is necessary to equip the door to the washing room, then to the steam room.

In this case, the steam room will be a room adjacent to the washing room and the rest room.

Experts say that only such an arrangement of the premises will make it possible to choose an advantageous model of a heating unit, for example, with an external fuel channel that allows you to melt the stove from the rest room or a portable heat sink that provides hot water to the washing unit.

How to insulate a steam room

Although wood is the traditional material for building a sauna with a steam room, a brick structure, with proper wall construction and high-quality thermal insulation, can be an excellent alternative to the traditional option. It is quite possible to carry out a high-quality installation of a thermal insulation system on your own, while paying special attention to the insulation of the most important bath room - the steam room. All structural elements will be subject to insulation: walls and ceilings, floors and roofs.

we warm the floors

Floor insulation is carried out in the same way as in a wooden structure. Under the bath house, you should dig a pit about half a meter deep. Sand (5 cm) is poured into it, then foam is laid, the layer thickness is 20 cm. Then the structure is poured with a five-centimeter layer cement mortar, including foam plastic, then - a five-centimeter layer of cement mortar with vermiculite. After laying the reinforcing layer with a cell of 10x10 cm, a layer of concrete prepared according to the usual recipe is poured. When pouring the last layer, a slope of about 5 degrees should be made to the side where the water outlet will be located.

how to properly insulate the walls of the steam room

Wall insulation is carried out in two stages - when laying the wall, well masonry is used, between the rows of bricks there should be a gap of about 15 cm. Its filling with expanded clay, slag or sawdust, mineral wool or foam plastic will create a good thermal insulation system. But to place a steam room, it will not be enough - you will need to perform additional lining of the inner surface of the walls. First, rails are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws (50 cm step), the gaps between them are filled with a layer of rolled or sheet heat-insulating material. Felt and cork are considered ideal from the point of view of environmental friendliness. For their manufacture, natural raw materials are used; under the influence of high temperature, they do not emit toxic substances. Often mineral wool is used for the purpose of thermal insulation.

It is not recommended to use foam plastic for insulating the inner surface of walls - when heated to a temperature higher than +60 degrees, destructive processes begin in it, causing rapid aging of the material. In addition, the destruction of macromolecules occurs with the release of phenol, a substance that is toxic to humans.

Foil can be used as a vapor barrier. It is able to protect the insulation layer from excessive moisture. It is not recommended to use polyethylene film as a vapor barrier for steam room walls. After mounting the foil layer, decorative trim clapboard wigs.

thermal and waterproofing of ceilings

Of no small importance for maintaining heat in the steam room is the ceiling: the warm air that is in the room tends to rise. Since heat loss through the ceiling can be very large, it is carefully insulated. The installation of a layer of insulation, which is mineral wool, is carried out from the side of the attic, with a layer of about 15 cm over the entire ceiling surface. For thermal insulation of the ceiling, glass wool or expanded clay can also be used. Sometimes they use the old method of warming - a mixture of clay with sawdust.

When laying the heat-insulating layer, special attention is paid to the junction of materials with the chimney - it should be coated with fire-retardant mastic or insulated with non-combustible asbestos materials. From the side of the room, the ceiling must be subjected to vapor barrier - it will protect the wooden fragments from moisture. Ideally, even the smallest gaps should not remain between the ceiling and the surface of the foil. Aluminum tape is used to fasten the foil. On top of the layer, you can install finishing materials.

Do-it-yourself steam room - we create a cozy and sincere atmosphere

In order to get a charge of positive energy from visiting a steam room, you should create an atmosphere comfortable for a person in it, ennoble its interior, using only environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans. The most common and suitable of these is natural wood. Here it should be clarified that the masters in the construction of baths with a steam room emphasize that not every tree can be used as a finish. Preference is given to wood varieties with high density, low thermal conductivity, resistance to moisture. Wood coniferous trees it is not used for finishing the steam room - it contains a lot of resins, which, when the air is heated, will form spots on the surface of the finishing material.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room will be:

• linden wood, which is an accumulator of positive and useful energy for humans, has a delicate and pleasant smell, has a beautiful texture and is easy to process;
• aspen board, characterized by high quality characteristics, cleaning negative energies from the room, which has a slight smell;
• abachi wood, with low thermal conductivity, attractive core pattern and neutral energy.

To create a special healing aroma in the steam room, linings are sometimes attached to the walls of the steam room - coniferous boards, for example - cedar. If such an air freshener gets tired of it, you can remove it or change it to another one.

What should be the doors of the steam room

Like any other room, the steam room should be equipped with a door. Since the room is supposed to have a special temperature and humidity regime, the door will also need to be not quite ordinary. It should not heat up with temperature changes or change dimensions with an increase in ambient humidity, ensure the preservation of heat in the room, and be an interior decoration. The door to the steam room is usually made deaf, made of linden, alder, aspen wood.

If desired, it can be made one or two-leaf, its dimensions should be smaller than that of a conventional door. The following dimensions of the door leaf will be sufficient:

• width 0.7 - 0.7 m
• height 1.5 - 1.7 m
• the threshold between the washing room and the steam room is not set, and the gap between the door and the floor should be 0.05 m.

Furnace in the steam room and its decoration

In a modern steam room, the stove, in addition to its immediate functions, plays the role of a decorative element. Often, instead of a very simple-looking steel sheet, the screen for the stove is constructed from stone or brickwork.

Metal stoves have a fairly attractive high-tech design. A wide variety of options for heating units will allow you to choose the best option for a room of any size. The brazier can also be placed in different ways - in the center of the room or one of its corners, in a niche or opening.

Bath furniture

Since the steam room is a relaxation room, it should have an aesthetic appearance. A well-thought-out design, a special placement of shelves in the steam room: like a fan, steps or a compartment, the elimination of corners in furniture and wall boxes allow you to visually expand the room, make it more spacious and voluminous.

Scoops and tubs placed on the shelves in the steam room, stands for the head or feet made of natural wood will serve as an excellent addition to emphasize the style.

The bath shelves themselves must be built in accordance with the rules to ensure sufficient comfort for users. Often bath shelves are called varnishes, in fact they are. Shelves have different heights and are arranged in accordance with a special scheme. According to the design of the shelves, it is a frame of racks connected by transverse jumpers. Sometimes the frame is made without supports, fastening it to the wall according to the principle of shelves in a railway car. The flooring is made from polished aspen or linden boards, attached to the frame or separate ladders are built. It is more convenient to have loose floorings - they can be ventilated and dried on outdoors. According to the same principle, the side parts of the shelves, seat backs, and bath pillows are built.

Since steam rooms are often built without windows, an option for high-quality lighting should be provided. To create a pleasant atmosphere, you can choose a subdued lighting option with illuminated seats and wall sconces, with a luminous ceiling (starry sky), etc. With the goal of creating a safe and aesthetic lighting option, it is best to focus on fiber optic systems.

How to extend the “life” of the steam room

Since natural materials, including wood, often do not withstand long-term use in extreme conditions, in order to extend the life of the steam room, some simple rules for its equipment and care should be followed.

1. All wooden components must be treated with a special impregnation made with natural oils. It prevents active absorption of moisture, fatty substances, dirt.
2. Periodically, the steam room should be carefully cleaned, ventilated, removing portable furniture from it.
3. The room must be equipped with high-quality ventilation, allowing delivery to the room fresh air in sufficient quantity.

We do the finishing of the steam room in a brick bath with our own hands

How to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath We do the finishing of a steam room in a brick bath with our own hands It is difficult to overestimate the importance of a steam room for maintaining

As a rule, baths rarely have an exploited underground, so the floors are often arranged directly on the ground with a layer of insulation between the finished floor and the base.

Expanded clay, which has good thermal performance and high mechanical strength, can be used as a heater. The floor poured over such a heater will last for many years without deformation.

Also, extruded polystyrene foam can be chosen as a heater, reliably protected by layers of screed and topcoat from high temperatures inside the steam room.

Steam room ceiling insulation

You should also pay attention to the insulation of the ceiling of the steam room so that hot air is kept indoors for as long as possible.

In one of the publications, we have already touched on the question of how to properly insulate the ceiling. As a ceiling insulation, it is also advisable to choose mineral wool rolled or board materials. It is also widely practiced to backfill the floor with expanded clay.

A brick bath outperforms a wooden one in that the walls do not require special waterproofing and fire protection. The brick is absolutely not afraid of fire, and it absorbs little moisture. But he has a “weak point” - high thermal conductivity, which prevents bath rooms from warming up quickly and retaining heat as much as possible. Insulation of a brick bath helps to increase the thermal insulation properties of the steam room and other rooms. Without it, the heating time of the building increases by about 3 times, and the cooling rate is high. Consider how to insulate a brick bath and all its structural elements using materials that are safe for health.

A private bath is used periodically, so it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature inside it. True, a cold brick will freeze through in winter, and if you start heating, then most of the heat will be spent on heating it. And what is the point of heating the stone? If the walls are insulated from the outside, then the entire brick will be inside the pie, covered only by the clapboard. And you have to spend money on heating it, whether you like it or not.

With internal insulation, the brick box will remain outside the cake, and a layer of insulation will insulate it. In this case, your expenses for heating the premises will decrease, because the insulation will not let hot air out and, with proper installation, will give most of it back into the premises.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside a brick box. The material is a bar-ten, which in itself is a warm material and does not emit harmful components when heated.

Mount the cake as follows:

• A crate is stuffed onto the brick.
• A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
• Install timber walls.
• A second crate is stuffed over them.
• Close the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Between the bars of the crate, the fiberglass is not stretched, but an overlap is made, so that later it is easy to place a heater.
• Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
• To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
• The lining is stuffed last.

The foil is attached to the crate with a construction stapler, without pulling it close

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. harmful substances. For this, basalt or fiberglass insulation that are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the timber with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But still do not do the warming of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrenes. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can focus on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

• Brick.
• Waterproofing.
• Crate.
• Insulation.
• Waterproofing.
• Second crate.
• Fiberglass.
• Insulation.
• Vapor barrier.
• Clapboard.

The thickness of the internal insulation pie will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth covering it with foil foam. This foam material is covered on one side with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect IR rays and become a barrier to internal vapors.

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it with a special foil for baths on top. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances during strong heating of the room. Joints in foil insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Foundation insulation

A powerful conductor of cold in the bath is the foundation, because for it concrete materials, which are not characterized by thermal insulation characteristics. Even before the erection of brick walls, the upper part of the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt or roofing paper in order to prevent moisture from the soil from entering the brick. But this is not enough. It is necessary to carry out external insulation of the entire surface of the walls of the base in order to increase the level of heat saving of the floors and to exclude movements and shrinkage of the foundation. On Russian lands, many soils are heaving, i.e. in winter, when freezing, they expand their volume. As a result, the pressure on the foundation increases, and this leads to distortions and cracks in the foundation. If you lay a layer of insulation between the soil and the walls, it will soften the pressure and make the structure stable.

For insulation, it is better to choose from two options for insulation: foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. In fact, both materials have approximately equal specifications:

• not afraid of ground movements;
• have increased compressive strength;
• waterproof;
• high quality thermal insulators.

You will have to choose based on your construction skills and the state of finances. So, spraying with polyurethane foam will cost significantly more than foam plastic, but craftsmen will do it for you in a day. At the same time, the main advantage of such a heater will be a continuous, durable coating in which there are no joints. Those. moisture and frost will not be able to find loopholes to penetrate deep into the foundation slab.

Penoplex is produced in plates, and they are fixed to the walls of the foundation with special mastic or adhesive. Any owner who has an idea about construction will cope with this. But for the day to mount the insulation will not work. This is a slow process, because the plates must be tightly joined, all seams must be sealed, and the corners must be blown out mounting foam.

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath have to withstand both high humidity and the temperature difference between the ground and the premises. Therefore, before installation concrete slabs overlapping the entire underground should be covered with expanded clay or slag. Moreover, the layer of the insulating pillow is calculated based on the thickness of the walls. If the walls are 20 cm, then expanded clay should be 40 cm. The subfloor is not used in the baths, so fill the entire internal space of the foundation with insulation. This will provide additional dryness to concrete or logs.

How to insulate a concrete floor

• If the floors are concrete, then the insulation of the brick bath from the inside begins with the waterproofing of the floor slabs. They are coated with water-repellent mastics (for example, rubber), and a rolled waterproofing agent is laid on top - roofing material or a special film.
• Foam or foam plastic is laid on top of the waterproofing.
• From above it is reinforced with a metal mesh and poured with a layer of concrete.
• The last stage is pasting with floor tiles.

Expanded clay pillow improves the quality of thermal insulation of floors in the bath, regardless of the material of the walls

wood flooring technology

It should be borne in mind that wooden floors are not a good option for baths, because wood is afraid of high humidity. But if you have conceived just such a floor, then first of all take care of the quality of ventilation in the underground. Without it, the logs and beams will instantly rot.

• The expanded clay pillow, which was mentioned earlier, must also be created in this case.
• Beams and logs treated with antiseptics are laid along the top.
• They are covered with a vapor barrier film.
• Lay rough floors from edged board.
• Lay foam.
• Close the insulation with a waterproofing film.
• Lay wooden finishing floors.

Insulated ceiling: not afraid of heat and steam

If we consider how to insulate a brick bath in a complex way, then we must definitely pay attention to the ceilings. Most of the hot air escapes through them, so a blockade is simply necessary here. But the climate of the bath, especially in the steam room, is characterized by very high temperatures in the upper part of the structure, because both the heat and the vapors, according to the laws of physics, rush to the ceiling. So its design must be resistant to moisture and hot air. We immediately exclude polystyrene foam materials, because in such heat they will harm human health.

If you study the insulation of a brick bath from the inside on the video, then most experts recommend insulating the ceiling with mineral wool, but with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Also a good option is to lay fiberglass on the ceiling, two clay-sand layers (one with sawdust, the second with vermiculite) and on top of all this - foam. But again, for a steam room it is better to take not polystyrene foam, but foil-coated fiberglass.

Fiberglass is laid with foil inside the steam room so that it beats off the maximum amount of heat and steam

With proper insulation of a brick bath, you will significantly speed up its warming up and reduce support costs. desired temperature while vaping.