Unit for mounting plastic windows without a quarter. Installing a plastic window with your own hands: consider the installation of a plastic window step by step

Installing PVC windows is a simple matter if you have at least once held construction tools in your hands and are at least a little versed in materials. Installation of such windows will take a little time: half an hour to an hour to dismantle old windows and 2 hours to install new ones.

Installation of PVC windows. Installation according to GOST

GOST for PVC installations windows, unfortunately, in most cases is only advisory in nature, but some rules should be followed during the installation of windows. First of all, this concerns preliminary measurements. We determine the type of window opening - with or without a quarter. Below is good example schematic view of the opening with a quarter (A), without a quarter (B).

Scheme 1 - Window opening with a quarter and without a quarter

Measurement of windows without a quarter

Installation of windows without a quarter occurs by installing windows in a cleared window opening. To order a window:

1. subtract 5 cm from the vertical size of the window opening - an indicator of the height of the window;
2. subtract 3 cm from the size of the window opening horizontally - an indicator of the width of the window.

These gaps will subsequently be filled with mounting foam: i.e. 1.5 cm on each vertical side of the window, as well as 1.5 cm for the upper horizontal and 3.5 cm for the bottom (for mounting the window sill).

We measure the length and width of the window sill, the outer ebb and add at least 5 cm to the numbers obtained - the window sill should crash into the wall from both sides of the window.

Measurement of windows with a quarter

We measure the window opening horizontally at the narrowest point. To the resulting number we add 3 cm (1.5 cm per sides window) is the desired width of the window. Vertically, we measure the length from the bottom of the window opening to the upper quarter - this is the required vertical size of the window.

The window sill and the ebb are measured in the same way as the option without a quarter.

As a result, you should have:

• window height indicator;
• window width;
• window sill length;
• window sill width;
• tide length;
• tide width.

Scheme 2 - Window measurements

Installation technology

The technology for installing new windows in old houses is similar. The only amendment is that the measurements of the new window are made according to the outer dimensions of the window frame being dismantled.

When ordering a window, also specify whether the delivery set includes:

• windowsill;
• plugs;
• mounting profile (mounting profile);
• anchor plates for fixing windows;
• installation instructions for PVC windows (some manufacturers include it in the kit).

When ordering a window, you should also know the answers to the following questions:

1. What type of window profile do you want to order - 3-, 4- or 5-chamber?
2. What type of double-glazed window did you choose - 1, 2, 3-chamber?
3. The method of opening your window is a blind window, a window with opening, a tilt-and-turn window with ventilation, or a combination window (tilt-and-turn window with ventilation and micro-ventilation).

By the way, if you want to get a quality product at a reasonable price, you should choose from mainly German and, not surprisingly, domestic manufacturers of window systems: REHAU, Veka, KBE, Schuko, Aluplast, Kemmerling, Brugmann or Trocal.

The installation technology provides for two methods: installation of PVC windows with unpacking and installation of windows without unpacking.

Scheme 3 - The device of a metal-plastic window

The first method involves preliminary disassembly of the window: removal of glazing beads, removal of double-glazed windows from the frame, fixing the frame to the wall with dowels, and subsequent installation of double-glazed windows and glazing beads.

The second technology for removing double-glazed windows does not require: the frame is fastened using fasteners fixed on the outer surface of the wall, and not through dowels.

The unpacking method of installation can sometimes lead to fogging of windows, and with a lack of experience, glazing beads and double-glazed windows can be damaged, and the installation process itself will take much longer. Of course correct installation will not lead to any negative consequences. However, be extremely careful!

The unpacking method is rightfully considered more reliable, especially if the frame was fastened to large long anchors. If we are talking about fixing a window on a floor above the 15th, about installation large windows(2x2 m), the right choice is to fix the frame through and through, disassembling the window.

Required tool

To install windows you will need:

• screwdriver;
• level;
• gun (for a cylinder of mounting foam and sealant);
• polyurethane foam (1-3 bottles per 1 standard window);
• PSUL for external waterproofing;
• primer;
• perforator;
• set of hexagons;
• jigsaw;
• stationery knife;
• pencil;
• paint brush;
• roulette.

We install windows. Work progress

In progress installation work you should focus on the previously planned plan: the window installation scheme (you drew it yourself or it was given as an example in the instructions from the manufacturer of window systems) will help you avoid mistakes and follow the plan clearly. If you are in doubt whether your calculations or ideas about the window installation process are correct, a window installation flow sheet can help - a universal set of installation norms and rules, guided by which you will be sure of the correctness of your actions.

We dismantle the old window and prepare the surface for the installation of a new window system.

Getting the tool ready.

To improve the adhesion of waterproofing tapes to the surface of the opening, we treat it with a primer. The primer is applied with a paint brush.

After removing the cellophane wrapping of windows, glue the inner vapor barrier tape to the frame along the half-perimeter.

Figure 1 - Pasting the window frame with vapor barrier tape along the half-perimeter

We paste over the frame external vapor barrier− fasten PSUL along the outer surface of the frame. When pasting, do not allow gaps between the joints of the tape. PSUL - a vapor-permeable tape will not allow the mounting foam to come out when processing gaps, protecting not only the appearance of the structure, but also the mounting foam from exposure environment− precipitation, ultraviolet and wind destroying the foam.

We install the frame in the opening, align and fix it, focusing on the installation rules:

• on the frame prepared for installation, we mark the places of subsequent fastening;
• we fasten from 4 sides of the frame in increments of 70 cm, while the indent from the corner of the window frame to the first fastener should be no more than 15 cm;
• fasteners are fixed to the window frame (the self-tapping screw must be fixed in the metal inside the frame, therefore the correct installation technology involves the use of self-tapping screws for metal with a diameter of 4-5 mm, for large window sizes, the diameter of the self-tapping screw should be 12 mm);
• use anchor plates as fasteners;
• in places for mounting fasteners, we make recesses in the window opening (fasteners are recessed by 2-4 cm for the convenience of working with slopes after completion of window installation work);
• the window must be level (to slightly level the window horizontally, you can use wooden wedges, placing them under the frame at the right points);
• to fix the frame in the opening, we install wedges - first the bottom two, thanks to which you can set the lower and upper edges of the frame to the horizon (so that the window does not dangle, it is appropriate to fix the upper anchor), then the wedges are fixed vertically to the window;
• fasten the window to the window opening.

On the outer side of the window opening we attach a diffuse tape under the ebb.

After adjusting the fittings (buying fittings from a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the window system is not recommended, however, if necessary, pay attention to offers from Winkhaus, Siegenia, GU, Aubi, Schuko (Germany), Maco (Austria)) you can foam the window (apply mounting foam along the entire perimeter of the window frame, taking into account that this mounting material increases its volume up to 3 times) and 15-20 minutes after processing all the gaps, it is necessary to bend the protective film previously applied around the perimeter of the window frame so that it completely covers the mounting gaps ( see figure).

Figure 2 - Processing assembly seams

We fix the tide. It is desirable to install it under the window - so you can avoid water seepage at the connecting seam of the ebb and the window frame.

Do-it-yourself PVC window installation in winter

Many are concerned about the question: "Is winter installation of PVC windows possible?".

Of course it's possible! And the installation technology is unchanged. The only thing worth paying attention to is the indicators temperature regime for the materials used in the installation. In particular - indicators of the use of mounting foam.

Special winter options have been developed, thanks to which you can work even at -10 ° C!

When choosing mounting foam for winter work, be guided by products trademarks Macroflex Profi (Finland), Illbruck (USA) and Moment (Russia).

PVC window sill installation

PVC installation window sill completes work on the installation of new window blocks.

The length and width of most window sills is standard. In any case, you need to take a window sill with a margin in length and width. Excess can be easily trimmed with a grinder.

Work progress:

Bring the window sill under the window and level it using wooden wedges or any other durable material at hand.

The window sill should go into the wall at least 1.5 cm.

Before the final installation, make sure that the window sill does not sag by pressing in several places.

The slope of the window sill relative to the window should not exceed 3°.

We blow out the cavity under the windowsill with construction foam.

The surface of the window sill must be evenly loaded for at least 12 hours so that the mounting foam, expanding, does not affect the installation angle of the window sill.

After a day, the remaining foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the joint between the window and the window sill is treated with a sealant.

Scheme 4 - Installation of a window sill

It remains only to install the slopes on the PVC windows - and you're done!

According to GOST! Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

Installation of PVC windows: VIDEO

$ Installation of PVC windows: issue price

The cost of work will depend on how much your window costs: companies that provide a full package of services often deduce window installation prices from the cost of a window - starting from 10%. Thus, when doing the work with your own hands, savings on installing windows can range from $ 40 to $ 60 (for one window).

Installation of PVC windows. Price:

• Kiev - from 100-130 UAH. per m²;
• Moscow - from 1,000 - 1,200 rubles. per m².

Price plastic windows with installation:

The cost of plastic windows with installation ranges on average from $80-90 (a blind window 1m by 1.5m) and up to $2,200 (glazing a plot of 3.4m by 1.5m with a sliding two-chamber window system). As you can see, the price range is amazing. Window installation is a price that is not always included in the total amount. Therefore, when signing an order for the manufacture of a window and the corresponding contract, make sure what is included in the final price, and what you still have to spend money on.

Estimate - extremely important document: when you receive it in your hands, ask for a full price list of works and materials - checking is never superfluous.

The cost of installation, paid separately, is different: prices vary between $ 30-70.

If the client is not able to pay the entire amount at once, some firms provide goods and services to a team of their craftsmen in installments.

The window business, by the way, is a profitable business: for example, winning a tender for glazing high-rise buildings or a housing estate under construction is like hitting the jackpot in a casino. The profit of the company can be estimated in hundreds of thousands of dollars.

If you are planning to replace or insert new windows, you need to look into the installation process. It all depends on how you will install the windows: either with your own hands, or by attracting a third-party company. To make the dismantling and installation of the structure, it takes about 4 hours if you do not have experience in this matter. For a company employee who does this often, such work will take no more than an hour. But installing tilt-and-turn windows on your own requires building skills.

Complete set of window system

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to understand the nuances and details. First you need to know all the names of parts and materials. The main bearing part is the frame. In the version of plastic windows, its production is carried out from a plastic profile, which can be single-chamber, two-chamber, etc. A special insert is placed in the center of the structure to ensure rigidity. In plastic systems, this insert is made of plastic; in metal-plastic systems, metal is used.

The profile system is assembled from 2 or more chambers

In addition, the profile is divided into classes: premium, standard and economy. All profiles manufactured at the factory are subject to certain standards. If you want to make a choice in favor of good tilt-and-turn windows, take the standard class. By color, white windows are most common, but other colors can be used: wood effect, brown. Products from a color profile will be more expensive than white.

Components of a plastic window

The main element of the window unit is the frame

The design of the plastic window includes the following details:

• frame - the main structural part;
• if you have a large window, most often it is separated by a vertical partition, there may be several of them - it all depends on the choice of design;
• the part that is motionless is called deaf, and the one that opens is called the sash;
• double-glazed windows can be different properties, for example, tinted, energy-saving, reinforced, using inert gas. In addition, they are single-layer, two-layer, three-layer or multi-layer - the choice is great;
• in order for the glasses to hold securely, they are pressed with a glazing bead, which is a thin plastic bar. For tightness, a rubber seal is used, most often black;
• fittings are always used - this is a special set of tilt-and-turn mechanisms that help open and close the doors and provide various functionality;
• in addition, seals are needed to ensure the tightness of the entire structure;
• on the inside of the frame, ventilated holes are made for drainage, which are covered with caps. The moisture formed during the temperature difference on the street and inside the room gets through them to the outside;
• another part of the design is the ebb - it is mounted outside, and the window sill is installed from the inside;
• parts located on the side of the frame are finished with slopes.

Is it possible to install the window yourself

There is an opinion that installing windows in a house or apartment is a rather complicated procedure. It must be said that this is not so. What do you need to know when installing? To perform these works, you do not need special professional tools and equipment, vast experience. The procedure includes two main points:

• dismantling of the old window block;
• installing a new window.

Dismantling the old window takes an average of 1.5 hours

If we talk about the time required to complete the work, then the first stage will take about an hour and a half. Do-it-yourself window installation will take less than three hours. I must say that if, nevertheless, you decide to opt for the services of specialists, then you should require certain guarantees from them.

If you have installed tilt and turn windows yourself, this will void your warranty. In this case, it is necessary to purchase designs directly from the manufacturer, who has been working on the market for a long time, has good feedback from clients. If you decide to buy single-chamber or double-chamber windows in winter period you can always count on a significant discount.

When a window is purchased from a company that also carries out installation work, the customer has a guarantee for fittings of about 5 years. With self-installation, you can obtain a guarantee directly from the manufacturer, that is, at the place of purchase.

In order to install windows in brick house, cinder block, gas block or apartment, you first need to order a swing-out or blind design from the manufacturer, and this requires accurate measurements.

Step-by-step instructions for correct measurement

When you place an order, you will be required to specify the following dimensions: the width and height of the structure, the width and length of the slope and window sill.

Before ordering a window, it is necessary to correctly measure the design

Before you start measuring, be sure to important point- what kind of opening do you have: with or without a quarter. Look carefully at the window opening: if the outer part is narrower, then you have a quarter opening in front of you. The measurement is carried out as follows: it is necessary to measure the narrowest part, it will be necessary to measure in several places, find smallest value, add 3 cm to it. The height is indicated as it is. If your opening is even, then the measurements are done like this: after measuring the width, 3 cm is subtracted; having measured the height, minus 5 cm. Read the detailed article about.

Before measurements, you need to determine the type of window: with or without a quarter

To determine the dimensions of the window sill, you need to add about 10 cm to the width of the opening inside the window. For low tide, the same is done, only along the outer part of the window. Everyone chooses the width for the window sill for themselves: it is better if it protrudes a little beyond the battery.

In addition, when placing an order, you need to decide which constituent parts your design will be completed: what options for two-, three- or single-leaf windows do you need, how they will open, on which side the capercaillie is located. Do not forget to decide on the type of fittings (handles, locks, ventilation mechanisms).

If you order several designs at the same time, then the width of all openings may be different, but the height must be the same, you must choose the smallest size. Please note that window openings can be located at different distances from the floor.. In apartments, from the floor to the window is about 80 cm, while on the balcony the windows can be from the floor. Accommodation in a private house can generally be any at the discretion of the owners.

Features of measurements for glazing balconies

To determine the width of the glass structure, it is necessary to measure in length that part of the balcony on which the balcony window will be installed, minus 7 cm from each side. This distance will be required for the installation of the corner profile, to which the structures of the side elements of the balcony are attached. The height is calculated as the distance from the support to the roof on the balcony or loggia, while subtracting a tolerance of 3 cm for the gap.

How to take measurements of windows in a country house

To correctly measure the dimensions of the structure in a private house, knock out part of the slopes on both sides. Very often it turns out that the window opening is much larger than the window that is installed in it. This means that during the dismantling of the structure, a part of the materials that filled the space will be simultaneously removed.

Preparing to install a window structure

After you take out the old window, you will need to inspect the resulting opening, remove all parts that can fall off or collapse, if there are protruding elements, they should be knocked down. Then clean the opening from construction debris and dust. If there are large recesses, it is better to cover them with cement. You can also treat everything with soil.

Base needs to be cleaned prior to installation.

Having finished working with the opening, you need to prepare a PVC window, the installation of which is to be. To do this, it is necessary to remove the window sashes, if it is deaf - double-glazed windows. If your frame has small dimensions, then you can install it without removing the double-glazed windows and sashes. The outer part of the frame should be freed from the film that protects it.

Installation Technology Guide

The finished plastic window is brought into the opening, placed on the support blocks and aligned horizontally. After that, using a level, the window is set vertically and fixed in this position with spacer blocks.

Installation of both blind windows and opening sashes is the same. There are two options for installing windows: with and without a structure. When applying the first option, holes are drilled through the frame through which anchor bolts are driven into the wall. This method is more complex and more reliable.

When installing a window by unpacking, holes are drilled in the frame and wall, where anchors are then driven in
Places for anchoring anchors and support blocks

If the installation is done without opening the frame, the window is fixed using special ones that are attached to the profile and then to the wall. This option is faster. However, it must be borne in mind that with significant wind loads, the frame structure may warp or it may sag. If you decide to mount on a plate, you should choose thick, wide options. Please note that if the region in which you live is characterized by a strong wind load or windows are to be installed at a height, then it is worth using the option of unbaking the frame.

Mounting on anchor plates

There are nuances for placing a window in an opening. If the walls are made of foam blocks, brick, cinder block, gas silicate or concrete, then the frame is placed in a depth of 2/3 from inner thickness opening. If the walls are insulated with foam, then the fastening must be done to the insulation layer. When insulating and facing with bricks, a window is installed in the insulation zone.

It is very important to choose the correct installation depth

The installation sequence must be followed:

• inserting the frame, expose it to the level, using support and spacer blocks;
• further attached to the wall;
• after installing the structure, it is necessary to assemble the window;
• then you need to check the normal operation of the shutters and all mechanisms, for this, open and close the window;
• after everything is checked, the sashes must be tightly closed and the gap around the structure must be sealed. For this, apply.

However, it must be remembered that in direct contact with the sun's rays and the external environment, the material loses its properties and collapses. To protect it, you need to create it, it can be a special film that needs to be glued on the outside and inside of the window. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to finish the slopes on both sides (external, internal) of the structure. You can open the window a day after blowing the gap with foam.

In order for the correct installation to be done both on windows and, follow the simple rules:

• we mount the ebb from the outside into a special slot in the frame or fasten it to it with self-tapping screws;
• the window sill is installed as follows: it is necessary to cut it from the edges so that it fits in the width of the window opening and rests against the end of the support profile;
• the level is leveled with special pads, after which the space under the window sill is blown with foam or filled with mortar.

According to the principle of the description above, windows are installed on a balcony or on a loggia, in brick or concrete walls. However, keep in mind that the entire weight of the window structure will be borne by the parapet, so you need to strengthen it.

Mistakes you can make when installing windows

There are a number of points that you should pay attention to when installing the structure so that it has a long service life:

• it is impossible to install the window with glazing beads outward, as this reduces the burglary resistance of the structure, since the glazing bead can be easily pulled out and the double-glazed window removed;
• you need to carefully consider the alignment of structures to the level during the installation of the window, otherwise opening and closing the sashes will be difficult;
• be sure to protect the mounting foam from direct sunlight in order to avoid its destruction;
• the choice of fixing the frame structure only with mounting foam will be wrong: it is imperative to mount it to the wall, otherwise it may simply fall out.

By following all the installation rules, you can successfully mount the window structure yourself, and if you turn to professionals for services, you can control their work at any stage.

Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped with ordinary apartments, and country houses, and luxurious country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Consider offset in advance and consider given parameter when ordering an ebb and window sill.

To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.

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Which frame mounting method should I choose?

The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. To fix the window structure, you can use:

1. Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
2. toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.

Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used when installing heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand the multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting. window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.

Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.

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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?

The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. First, proceed with the installation of PVC windows in wooden house recommended not earlier than one year, and even better 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product can only be mounted in a wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After installation of PVC windows and completion finishing works it will also happen. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and humidity building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.

Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.

Experienced builders give a very useful recommendation, which is not in normative documents, but it will be useful to anyone who decides to perform self-assembly PVC windows. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding to further work, prepare tools for mounting PVC windows. You will need the following:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Foam gun and directly foam.
3. Level.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Perforator.
6. A set of hex keys.
7. Pencil.
8. Yardstick.
9. Stationery knife.

After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally cut off the top layer if the new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.

In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to completely free the window opening and the space next to it:

• remove everything from the windowsill,
• take down the curtains
• free the approach to the window by moving the furniture at least 1.5 meters from the window.

Protect the room from dust and dirt by covering the floor and furniture with cloth or thick oilcloth.

For ease of installation, connect the 220V power supply through an extension cord, prepare garbage bags.

Dismantling the old frame

After the room is ready for the appearance of dust and debris, they begin to dismantle the old window frame.

The shutters are removed from the window. Remove window frames. If necessary, dismantle (knock down) slopes.

The old window frame is dismantled, and, as a rule, it is seriously damaged. If you wish to use old windows, for example in a country house, you should specify the option of keeping the old windows when ordering.

The old ebb, the old window sill is being dismantled.

PVC window installation

The sashes are removed from the plastic window, the double-glazed window is removed. A window frame is inserted into the prepared opening and fixed to anchor bolts or mounting plates. At the same time, it should be strictly observed that the frame is level, and not along the opening (in houses there are often cases when the horizon line of the window opening is far from ideal, the frame should also be set vertically to the level). Otherwise, the window will not function properly.

The gaps between the wall and the frame are foamed with mounting foam. The foam performs both an insulating function and is a fastener. The overall result largely depends on the quality of this stage of installation. The foam must be applied evenly and fill all the recesses and cavities of the opening, and it is necessary to take into account the degree of expansion of the foam.

Installing a plastic window in most cases implies that a new window sill and a new ebb will be installed along with the new window. An exception is the case when repairs are being carried out in the apartment (house, room) and the window sill can be installed on its own.

If the mounted window opens onto a balcony (as in this case), then it is quite expedient and functional to install a window sill instead of a low tide (on the outside of the window).

If you have a good old tide, then you can save it for a new window, but in this case it will require restoration (restoration) - a paid service, the cost of which differs slightly from the cost of a new tide.

The window sill is cut out under the opening and attached to the window (to the stand profile). If the opening under the window sill is small, then it foams. Otherwise, laying or sealing the opening with mortar is necessary. When installing a window sill (window sill), it is controlled that it has a slope from the window within 5 degrees, and the overhang inner surface walls no more than 60 mm.

When installing a window sill, it should be taken into account that its edges go beyond the finishing of the inner slope to a depth of at least 15-20 mm.

Advice: when choosing the width (depth) of the window sill, it should be borne in mind that the window sill "sinks" under the window frame by 2 cm, so the width installed window sill will be 2 cm less)

All gaps between the window and the opening are filled with foam, and when it dries, they are isolated. The outer layer of insulation is designed to protect the insulation layer (which is the foam layer) from the penetration of moisture into it, as well as from the damaging effects of the sun.

So, the main part of the work is finished. However, for finishing the opening lacks slopes (which are both a decorative addition under which you can hide the mounting foam, and a functional element - increasing the thermal insulation and sound insulation of the window opening). Plastic slopes will give the window a finished look, besides, it the best combination with plastic windows.

Installation of plastic slopes

Plastic slopes are installed on the same day with a window for panel and block houses and on the second day for Stalinist houses.

As slopes, either a Belgian sandwich panel (in the image) or German VEKA plastic slopes with removable casings is used.

The differences between the various plastic slopes are not significant, but you should be aware of them.

The Belgian sandwich panel can be installed at dawn (not at right angles to the window), which visually enlarges the window opening. The choice of VEKA plastic slopes is justified for a more accurate wallpapering with already installed slopes. Thanks to the removable casing, the edges of the wallpaper will be neatly hidden under it.

Advice: if you have a repair in your apartment, then it is better to install the architraves on the slopes from the Belgian sandwich panel after wallpapering yourself - it will turn out neater and prettier).

Installing window accessories

At the final stage, a double-glazed window is installed in the window frame and the sashes are hung. Additional accessories are being installed, additional fittings and components are fastened, such as: a stepped ventilator, a retainer, a mosquito net, blinds, etc.

The window is ready. Upon completion of all work, an act of acceptance and delivery of work is signed. In it, if necessary, the customer indicates his comments on the work performed, if any.

Almost immediately after completing all the work, the PVC window can be used. The exception is windows with large opening sashes, which are not recommended to be opened within 24 hours after installing the PVC window.

Plastic window functionality is much better than the old ones wooden windows. If you follow the simple instructions for its care and operation, it will serve you forever.

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the outside of the PVC window!

According to GOST 30674 "Window blocks made of PVC profiles":
Removal protective film from the front surfaces of the profiles should be made after the installation of products and finishing the mounting opening, taking into account that the duration of exposure to sunlight on the protective film should not exceed ten days.

If repairs are still underway in the room where the windows were installed, the protective film may remain on the product until they are completed. However, from the outside, the film should not be exposed to sunlight for more than 10 days.

The adhesive base of the protective film loses its properties when exposed to heat and UV and can spoil the aesthetic appearance of the plastic profile.

General requirements for installation according to GOST

GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. Are common specifications» was put into effect by the order of the Gosstroy of the Russian Federation from 01.03.2003.

Due to the need to adjust the project documentation for design and construction organizations the transitional period for the development of GOST is set until 01.07.2003. The republics of Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Moldova and Uzbekistan joined the Russian norms.

What's new? The new norms bring a significant formalization of window installation and require numerous documents. Among them, it should be noted the need for each installation company to have “Windows installation instructions” approved by local authorities, the need to develop window installation assemblies for each facility under construction and coordinate the assemblies with the customer, it is recommended to analyze thermal fields, and it is also provided for the execution of delivery certificates - acceptance of window openings before installation, acts of hidden work and acts of acceptance of the completed installation of windows.

Of particular interest in the norms are the Applications:

• Annex A (recommended) is drawings with examples of window installation;
• Annex B (recommended) puts forward requirements for fastening windows in openings;
• Annex B (mandatory) represents the actual requirements for the installation of windows as a whole and, in fact, is the main working document;
• Annex D (recommended) describes the requirements for the method for calculating thermal fields (analysis of isotherms).

In general, Russian installation standards bring us closer to the standards adopted in Europe, and, in particular, in Germany.

GOST requires window companies a large number formalities and has more requirements for testing joint designs and materials used for them.

Formalization is justified by the fight against Russian negligence.

Testing of materials and seams as a whole is justified by the fact that until now in Russia there were no detailed standards for installation at all, there is no accumulated scientific experience in determining the properties of installation materials and the quality of seams. Of course, there is no need for the consumer to know all the provisions of this GOST, this is the responsibility of professionals.

Without delving into the subtleties, we can talk about three basic principles for installing windows, which you need to pay close attention to.

Three layers of seam seal

The content of the main part of the norms is devoted to the rules for filling the mounting gap between window blocks and openings according to the principle “the inside is denser than the outside”. Each mounting unit must have three layers of sealing: outside - protection from climatic influences, in the middle - insulation, inside - vapor barrier. Can be used different materials for the outer layers and different mounting foams, but, in one version or another, these three termination planes must be present.

outer layer It is designed to protect the insulation layer from the penetration of moisture into it, and must have vapor permeability so that there is ventilation of the insulation through it. That is, the outer layer must be waterproof and vapor-permeable.

These requirements are due to the fact that when moisture penetrates into the insulation, its thermal insulation qualities fall. The best way modern requirements for the outer layer correspond to PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tapes). These are special mounting tapes that are glued to the window frame before it is installed in the opening, and then, expanding, they fill all the gaps in the quarter in the opening.

With serious advantages: optimal building physics and technological simplicity, they also have disadvantages. It is convenient to use these tapes in new construction, when the opening has a good geometry. But when replacing windows in old houses, when the slopes are uneven, and even more so, plaster, their use is difficult. Another drawback is that plaster does not fall on PSUL.

In a limited form, it is possible to use silicone on the outside. In this case, certain rules should be observed: the thickness of the silicone layer should be half the width of the joint being filled, and the silicone should be glued only on both sides and work in tension, the rest of its sides should remain free.

Sealant can be used when insulating a mounting seam. Although it is not clearly spelled out in GOST, there is also no ban on its use, no matter how much supporters of mounting tapes would like. An example of the use of silicone outside and inside the room is shown on node A.14 in GOST 30971-2002. It is unacceptable, of course, as you can sometimes observe on objects, just anointing with silicone over the foam - this is an imitation of the protection of the seam, but not the protection itself.

Central layer- heat-insulating. Currently, polyurethane foams are used for its execution. It is best to use foams designed specifically for installing windows. Such foams evenly fill the seam and do not need to be trimmed after hardening. Other foams, after installation, hang in shreds from the side of the room, and they are cut off, breaking the protective outer crust.

The inner layer- vapor barrier. Its function is to protect the insulation (foam) from the penetration of moisture vapor into it from the side of the room. For these purposes, when plastering slopes, vapor barrier tapes are used, mainly based on butyl, as well as paint vapor barriers for moisture-resistant drywall. It is possible to use silicone according to the rules mentioned above.

No cold bridges

A mounting seam is a node where wall and window structures are docked, which have completely different properties, including in terms of heat engineering. And it is important to execute the nodes in such a way that there are no cold bridges on the window slopes.

Basically, the problem of cold bridges is the problem of single-layer wall structures that were used in houses of the past (solid brick, expanded clay concrete, etc.). In this case, the weak zone is the wall itself around the window frame due to its low resistance to heat transfer. An area with a surface temperature below the dew point appears on the slope. In this area, firstly, high heat losses occur, and secondly, condensate falls on it. If moisture condensation on the slope occurs frequently, then fungus (mold) may subsequently form in these places. The same applies to openings without quarters. In their absence, the danger of cold bridges seriously increases, and here one should carefully consider the heat engineering of the junction points.

Important recommendation- in the absence of quarters, use window frames with a width of at least 130 mm. With a narrow window frame, high-quality sealing of the seam is difficult and there is a high probability of cold bridges. The options given in GOST with false quarters from the corners or from the casing are possible only if exterior plaster, and still remain problematic from the point of view of heat engineering.

If there is an effective insulation in the wall ( mineral wool or non-combustible polystyrene foam) the window should either be in the plane of the insulation, or behind a quarter of the insulation. In walls where aerated concrete is combined with external cladding and brick quarters, as a rule, cold bridges also do not occur due to the good thermal properties of aerated concrete.

Fastening the window block in the opening

The specificity of plastic windows is that they have significant thermal linear expansion. That is, when windows are heated by sunlight, the bars of the box and sashes increase in size. As calculated values ​​of thermal expansion for windows white color should be applied 1.5 mm per 1 running meter, for colored windows - 2.5 mm per 1 running meter (the difference in thermal expansion is due to the fact that white window profiles heat up much less than colored ones).

In accordance with this factor, the window is fastened to the wall. The corners of plastic windows must remain free, the outermost fasteners are placed at a distance of 150 mm from internal corners ram. The remaining fasteners are placed around the entire perimeter with a pitch for white profiles of no more than 70 cm, for colored profiles no more than 60 cm. Fasteners are also placed near imposts at a distance of 150 mm from the corner. The gap between the box and the wall must be at least 15 mm. This is due both to the thermal expansion of the windows and to the fact that it is very difficult to evenly fill a thinner seam with foam insulation.

Bearing pads are placed under the lower corners of the box and under the imposts. The blocks are also placed from the sides as follows: if you look at the window from the inside, then with one rotary sash, the blocks are placed on the opposite side of the hinges at the top and on the same side as the hinges below. With two wings, four blocks are placed, respectively.

Schematic diagrams of the junctions of window frames to the walls

1 - window sill;
2 - foam insulation;
3 - vapor barrier tape;
4 - flexible anchor plate;
5 - support block under the window sill;
6 - plaster mortar;
7 - dowel with a locking screw;
8 - an insert made of antiseptic lumber or a leveling layer of plaster mortar (recommended only for the lower node);
9 - waterproof vapor-permeable tape;
10 - noise-absorbing gasket;
11 - drain;
12 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL);
13 - sealant with a thin layer

1 - foam insulation;
2 - insulating self-expanding vapor-permeable tape (PSUL) or vapor-permeable mastic;
3 - frame dowel;
4 - sealant;
5 - vapor barrier tape;
6 - panel for finishing the inner slope;
7 - plaster leveling layer of the inner slope.

Thermal gaps must be taken into account especially carefully when designing large-sized glazing elements: when making bay windows, shop windows, glazing for the entire floor height. These are the three main principles for installing modern windows, although, of course, there are many nuances and subtleties that depend on different wall designs and on the materials used to seal the seam. And - as we said at the beginning of the article - the human factor is very important - the responsible and high-quality work of the installers.

Deviations from vertical and horizontal

According to GOST 30971-2002 “Mounting seams for adjoining window blocks to wall openings. General technical conditions”, p.p. 5.6.4 Deviations from the vertical and horizontal of the mounted window blocks should not exceed 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the height of the product.

In the updated version of GOST 30971 of 2012, the maximum deviations of the window and door unit from the vertical and horizontal levels are the same (clause 5.2.4) - no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, and no more than 3 mm for the height of the entire product .

When can windows be installed?

With the entry into force of Moscow law No. 42 "On silence", disturbing the peace of neighbors is an administrative violation. Carefully read our noisy work instructions in order to comply with the requirements in force in Moscow and the Moscow region in various buildings.

How much does it cost to install windows according to GOST

The cost consists of two components: the cost of work (hours) and materials.

The mounting seam will comply with GOST for the installation of windows, using both expensive and economical materials. The use of one or another will affect the phasing (duration) of work and the final cost of installing windows.

Video instruction for the installation of plastic windows

If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first one (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for the bend. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First, the workplace is vacated, all furniture is covered with plastic wrap (there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.

Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.

Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installing a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. Characteristically, traditional bubble levels they are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.

Stage 7. Assembly of the window

After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.

Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right from our new article.