Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows that had to be sealed for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people seek to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and installation is of particular interest. plastic windows with your own hands.

This desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows have not only an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as an interior decoration. They are also much easier to operate, serve an order of magnitude longer, and are much cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to change old windows in your apartment for modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly wonder if it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is the installation of plastic windows, and is it possible to do it yourself without resorting to the help of specialists?

Yes, it is quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What is a plastic window made of?

First, consider the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from special material called Polyvinyl Chloride. Therefore, plastic windows are abbreviated as PVC windows. As with any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (they are also called cameras), the warmer the window will be.

As a rule, the color of the frame is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and most a budget option- white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a fixed part, which is called the "grouse". A double-glazed window is inserted directly into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Installed on window sashes special arrangements to open and close the window.

In addition, on the outside, the window has a so-called low tide - a small board with which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates that close up the side and upper parts from the side of the street.

Do-it-yourself installation steps for plastic windows

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands are as follows:

• careful measurements;
• dismantling of old window structures;
• preparation of window openings;
• do-it-yourself PVC window installation.

We take measurements

Before ordering, and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they will be done depends on how your design will fit into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the success. If you take the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows with your own hands, the structure simply will not enter the opening. In addition, the windows may begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully inspect the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Moreover, it is highly desirable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly even. Find the smallest measurement value, and add 3 to it. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window is the same size both inside and outside, the measurements are taken a little differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values ​​in order to leave gaps for the installation of the window sill and special mounting foam.

Each owner chooses the window sill according to the size he wants. Someone like wide window sills, someone is narrow, and someone makes them at the level of the wall. This is individual, and there are no rules here. It's about width.

Along the length, both the window sill and the ebbs must be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Getting ready to install

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always begins with the dismantling of the old window. As a rule, even for novice builders, dismantling is especially easy.

After you have broken the old window, you need to carefully inspect the opening and remove everything that may later fall off. If some parts of the opening protrude from the walls after dismantling, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. Should be sealed with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, you must consider the following circumstances:

• plastic window construction should be carefully fixed;
• the window structure must be aligned both horizontally and vertically, otherwise it may simply skew in the future;
• it is necessary to plaster the mounting foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid problems such as deformation in the future.

Plastic window installation technology

Do-it-yourself plastic window is mounted as follows:

• on four sides, fix the structure with wedges, and determine how accurately the frame stands relative to the opening;
• fix the frame with special bolts;
• attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
• seal the plastic structure with mounting foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

Let's start with the fact that there are two different ways do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows.

The first way is to drill holes in the window frame for special anchors that are driven into the wall. This is a rather difficult way, but a more reliable mount.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. It is much simpler and fast way, however, such a mount is not reliable. The frame can simply warp even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decided to make your life easier, and install a plastic window with your own hands in the second way, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic construction greater reliability. However, if it is very windy in your city, this method is definitely not suitable for you.

Direct mounting

Do-it-yourself installation of a plastic window in the first way with secure fastening is carried out as follows.

First you need to check whether the structure and the window opening are combined. If everything is in order, proceed directly to the installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

• turn window handle down, putting the window in the “closed” position, and remove the lining from the hinges with a screwdriver;
• pull out the pin, which is located on the upper loop;
• open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, then, by lifting sash, you can easily remove it from the bottom pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the double-glazed window on the "grouse". For this:

• insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the glazing bead;
• move the glazing bead with a spatula, going along the entire length, and remove it from the frame.

After that, it is already quite easy to remove the double-glazed window itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you have taken out have ceased to hold it. To avoid this, the window should be tilted.

The frame is freed from the double-glazed window, and now it should be glued around the perimeter with a special tape. This tape is needed in order for the window to retain heat.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also desirable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, fused with it, it will be difficult to do. And while the tapes are removed very easily.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges that are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you consider it necessary.

Using a drill and a drill, special holes are made into which fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be about the same distance from the bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
Anchor is hammered into the hole, and then the anchor is tightened. At the same time, the anchor must be tightened carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After that, ebbs should be installed outside. Before installation, stick self-adhesive waterproofing on the part of the frame that is outside. On the side, strobes are made in the openings (then you will need to bring the edges of these ebbs there).

On that part of the opening where the ebb rests on the wall, a special profile is installed, to which the ebb is then attached. If the height difference is small, you can not install the profile, but simply apply a layer of mounting foam. Then the ebb should be brought under the ledge of the frame, and attached to it with self-tapping screws. On the lower border, the ebb must also be filled with mounting foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second way to install plastic windows with your own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we have already said, it is less reliable. Installation by this method involves the installation of thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - about 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those that are in the middle. Metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, the installation of plastic windows with your own hands completely coincides with the first installation method. In the same way, a window is set in three planes according to the level, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, they do not attach the frame itself, but metal plates, and they are attached to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of fastening is that first a hole is drilled, then a metal plate is bent, a dowel is inserted into the hole, the plate is put in place and the dowel is twisted.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that it will be cold in the house, water will flow into the room through improperly installed ebbs. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become worthless. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is certainly not immune from them.

Let's look at the 10 most common mistakes that are made when installing plastic windows.

Window size is wrong

Usually this is a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of unsuitable window construction. And in case the window is too big in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor window preparation

If the surfaces are poorly cleaned, construction debris, dust, potholes remain on them, or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the mounting foam will not stand up as tightly and evenly as it is necessary for a high-quality installation of plastic windows with your own hands. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon be inside your apartment.

Ignoring wall insulation

If a plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then at the joints it will penetrate into the apartment cold air. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of the walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall consists of one layer, the window should be placed exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is two-layer, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close as possible to the insulation. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install a PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between the window frame and the slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, then the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If the frame, on the contrary, is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Wrong sill size

The window sill should be somewhat narrower than the window frame itself. If it is of a different size, or it was decided not to install it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will constantly be wet. Metal parts can simply corrode after a certain time.

Poor quality fixing of the PVC window to the wall

If you feel sorry for the dowels or anchors, and there are too few of them to attach the window structure to the wall properly, over time the position of the window will change, the frame will deform, and it will be difficult for you to open and close the window.

Not enough mounting foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating a window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, then the heat will go away. Therefore, the gap between the slope and the window frame must be filled properly, not sparing the mounting foam.

No duct tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape laid down in accordance with GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually become worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will become unusable much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through all the necessary steps and perform all the necessary actions efficiently, accurately and slowly. Then your beautiful do-it-yourself plastic windows will delight you and your household for many years.

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How to fix a window: an overview of fasteners and a photo report on the installation

Hello. In this article, I will talk about how to fix plastic windows in a residential building with your own hands using an available tool. I hope that this topic will be of interest to you, as installation skills can save money.

Despite the fact that for many manufacturers the price of windows includes the cost of installation, there are many companies where they will sell you a double-glazed window cheaper due to self-assembly. Saving money is obvious!

Basic information about window installation

Installation of glazing in the opening differs depending on the type of profile used and depending on the type of walls. For example, installation in a stone, concrete or brick wall is carried out directly without any structures that compensate for the mechanical loads on the window.

At the same time, installation in a wooden house is carried out with the obligatory device of a casing box, which compensates for loads due to shrinkage processes.

There are two main requirements for the installation of plastic double-glazed windows:

• Strength and reliability of the installed glazing;
• Correct location in terms of level relative to the vertical and horizontal plane;
• Properly executed sealing of gaps along the perimeter of the opening to ensure optimal energy efficiency of the glazing.

Fasteners for installation of double-glazed windows in PVC profile

Commonly used fasteners for plastic windows: a - frame dowel with a metal seal; b - frame dowel with plastic seal; c - universal plastic dowel; g - screw (self-tapping screw); e - anchor plate

Before proceeding to the description of the installation, I propose to find out what fasteners for PVC windows can be purchased at hardware stores. There are many fasteners and such a variety is not accidental, since each variety is intended for one or another type of wall.

Window fasteners, according to the type of walls, are divided into the following categories:

• for concrete walls;
• for the installation of brick walls;
• for installation in aerated concrete walls;
• for fastening to wood.

By the way, with the use of the listed fasteners, a protective grille can be installed.

Fasteners for installation in concrete openings

Plastic double-glazed windows are installed in concrete openings by means of anchors or, as they are also called, frame dowels.

For reliable fixation of a heavy window in a concrete opening, it is customary to use anchors with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a length of 72 to 202 mm. The length and diameter of the hardware are selected taking into account the density of the wall - the more porous the concrete, the longer and thicker the anchor.

No matter how long and thick the anchors are, the strength of the finished result will depend on how carefully the hole is drilled. If the walls of the hole are broken as a result of unprofessional drilling, even the most reliable fixing hardware will not provide the necessary strength of installation.

Installation with anchors is carried out in two ways:

1. A hole is drilled in the profile and the anchor enters the concrete directly through the profile;
2. An anchor plate is attached to the profile and through the plate the window structure is fastened to the opening.

The first method is relevant if the technological gap between the profile and the gap is small. If the distance between the profile and the opening is more than 1 cm, an anchor plate can be used, since the fasteners can be covered when finishing if plastic slopes are used.

Anchor plates are metal strips of a simple or complex configuration. Plain plates are ordinary perforated strips. Along with such devices, there are “crabs” - plates that cut into the profile, which simplifies the finishing of slopes.

Fasteners for installation in brick walls

The fastening of plastic windows in a brick opening is carried out in approximately the same way as in. But there is one problem: if for installation in concrete, holes for the anchor in the profile can be drilled in advance, then in the case of brick walls holes are drilled in place, as you need to get into the center of the brick, and not into the seam of the masonry.

For installation in brick, the same frame dowel is used as for concrete walls, but with a length of at least 10 cm. A length of 10 cm is the minimum entry into the brick at which you can be sure that the fastening will not loosen or weaken when operation.

If you are sure that the brick is not hollow, and today this is rarely used, you can use dowels 6-8 cm long.

Fasteners for installation in wooden openings

The best option for installing windows in a wooden opening without a casing is self-tapping screws in combination with anchor plates. This type of fastening is equally good for log, lumber and frame buildings.

If a casing box is installed in the opening, installation can be done with screws directly through the profile. To install glazing in a wooden opening, I recommend using self-tapping screws with a length of at least 10 cm and a diameter of 8 mm. We screw in the screws in increments of 30 cm.

Fasteners for installation in aerated concrete openings

Aerated concrete blocks are characterized by low density, and therefore we choose special dowels for installation and perform installation with a small pitch between the screws.

Installation of glazing in gas concrete walls requires detailed consideration, as an increasing number of houses are being built using such blocks. That is why, in order to get acquainted with the installation technology, I offer a small photo report on the installation work done.

Installation of a plastic window in the walls of aerated concrete blocks

To perform installation work you will need:

• perforated anchor plates(160×40 mm and 2 mm thick);
• Plastic dowels (50×10 mm) for mounting in aerated concrete;
• Universal metal self-tapping screws (60×6 mm);
• Electric drill and drills in accordance with the diameter of the dowel;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• water level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• If the perforation in the anchor plates does not match the diameter of the dowels, we drill holes, if the diameter initially matches, skip this step and proceed to the next one;

• Along the perimeter of the profile, we fasten the anchor plates to the self-tapping screws so that the holes drilled for the dowels are located outside;

In order for the frame to be securely fixed in the opening, we mount the anchor plates on 2 self-tapping screws, which will prevent them from turning. In addition, the installation step should not exceed 30-40 cm.

• We install the frame in the opening on plastic inserts and position it according to the level in the horizontal and vertical plane;

• After the structure is aligned in the opening, we drill holes in the aerated concrete blocks in accordance with the perforation in the anchor plates;

For drilling aerated concrete blocks, it is not necessary to use a drill with a winning surfacing. Since aerated concrete is soft, it is quite possible to use the same drill that was previously used to drill out anchor plates. By the way, when drilling, we try not to pull the drill from side to side, since breaking a hole in aerated concrete is easier than ever, and as a result, the dowel will not stick to the wall.

• We screw dowels into the drilled holes;

• We screw self-tapping screws into the screwed dowels;

At the end of the installation work, we do not remove the liners from under the window, as they will provide additional stability to the structure.

• From the spray gun, we abundantly moisten the technological gap between the opening and the profile;
• We fill the technological gap around the entire perimeter with mounting foam, so that the excess applied foam comes out from the outside and the gap is completely filled;
• After the foam has dried, the excess is cut off with a mounting knife on both sides of the profile.

By the way, how to attach a thermometer on the window and at the same time not make holes in the profile in vain?

It turns out that there is nothing complicated, just buy a special thermometer with Velcro on the glass. Thermometers with lugs and mounting holes should not be mounted on plastic, but on wooden frames. But, if there is a thermometer with holes for screws, fix this device on the profile with short self-tapping screws - this will not harm the profile.

In conclusion, I note that if you don’t know how to fix the handle on the profile, you can also use small self-tapping screws that will go through the PVC and will be held in the metal.

Conclusion

Now you know how to install window block PVC in the opening of walls of different composition. I hope that the suggested instructions were useful to you. If you have any questions, as usual, ask them in the comments to the text. Also, don't forget to watch the video in this article.

Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands. This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment. But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows with a four-chamber window profile and two-chamber double-glazed windows that were optimal in terms of thermal performance, as well as a reinforced front door. By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order. And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

Let's get started!

2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed. First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings. As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there). For the quarters, I used standard 5 cm thick aerated concrete blocks, which were installed, like all masonry, on mounting foam. The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness. It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for standard window sizes - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or window to order. The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam. From the bottom, on all windows from the factory, there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill. Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening must be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically. You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows. In the case of a suburban one-story house there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than the swing-out mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly more height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters). The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of ​​​​glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters. The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws. Also, the bubble level was not included in the frame. Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates. The first method requires more time and skills. In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place. The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required. Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed. In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates. Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters. The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape. It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters. The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and hence destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters. This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon. This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile. As a support for the frame on the base of the opening, I use a piece of laminate with a thickness of 7 mm.

9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete. It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to set the window vertically. In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base. Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates. Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone. I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up. I used 9 mounting plates for each window. 3 on each side except the bottom. Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners. On the big windows at the bottom there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed. Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame. On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - protective film must be removed from the frame immediately after installation. Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately. If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).

13. Go to front door. This is reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening. But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter. To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes. For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates. It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output. With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know. First - the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and it must be closed from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut. The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly in the volume so that the excess does not protrude. It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam. Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.

15. Next, we install the fittings and check how the windows open. If the window does not open well or jams, this is a sign that errors were made during the installation of the window. Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.

17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep. In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile. It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth. Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter. We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue. As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam. And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously smeared the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.

20. Done! Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone. Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.

And now the most interesting. The Chertanovsky office of Okna Growth decided that the discount on windows should be not only for me, but for all readers of my blog. Therefore, we made an exclusive promotion for ordering plastic windows. The minimum discount of 33% is relevant for everyone who is ready to independently measure and install plastic windows.

All details are here -

The decision to replace wooden windows on plastic has all the advantages, since modern double-glazed windows are much more functional and reliable. Of considerable importance is the correctness of their installation, for which several methods are used. The most popular of them is mounting on anchor plates.

Most often, one of two methods is chosen for installing plastic windows:

1. Direct screwing of the frame into the opening with screws.
2. Use of anchor plates.

The first option is considered more difficult, because. involves a complete disassembly of the structure, including the removal of sashes (both deaf and movable). This makes it possible to drill the profile without interference, attaching it to the walls of the opening with self-tapping screws. After installing the frame, the window is assembled again: this procedure includes adjusting the sashes, installing fittings and double-glazed windows.

This work is quite laborious, so most beginners prefer the faster second method. At the same time, it is important to remember that constructions with an area of ​​more than 2 m², it is recommended to install only directly (this option is more reliable).

The material for the manufacture of anchor plates for plastic windows is galvanized steel with a thickness of 1.5 mm, for which the stamping method is used. Products are equipped with a series of round holes for mounting screws. For the possibility of pre-assembly bending, the plates are equipped with a guide notch in some areas. The depth of the bend directly depends on the thickness of the installation gap: it is selected at the installation site.

It is most convenient to fix the anchor plates on window mounting screws 40x5 mm. To fix the flexible plates in the opening, you will need plastic dowels and locking screws. Each anchor must have at least two anchor points. Here you will need screws 50x6 mm.

There are three main types of anchor window plates:

• Swivel.
• Fixed.
• For wooden windows.

Rotary products used in those situations when fastening the window block in the opening is difficult for one reason or another. Thanks to the swivel mechanism, the plate is positioned on the part of the wall that provides the most secure fit.

If everything is done correctly (exactly combine the turn signal and the external bent teeth), the product will be fixed as securely as possible. In this case, there is no danger of deformation of the profile. The presence of a rotary element and the ability to bend the element makes it possible to use various mounting angles. Most often, arched, trapezoidal and polygonal systems are installed in this way.

With a simple fixed anchor plate installation of plastic windows inside the opening is carried out, with the possibility of selecting the optimal mounting angle. To improve the strength of fixation, some models additionally have a claw hook.

Concerning anchors for wooden windows, then they are not used to install plastic systems.

The ability of anchor plates to quickly provide reliable connection between the window unit and the wall is their main advantage. As a result of this, it is possible not only to save time and effort, but also to withstand seasonal and daily temperature fluctuations well (this is fraught with structural deformation).

This type of attachment has other dignity :

• Ease of installation. Unlike fastening through the frame, the plates eliminate the need for complete disassembly of the window system. This speeds up the installation work, at least twice.

• Selection of the optimal mounting area. Movable mechanisms allow you to fix the window at the most convenient angle.

• Possibility of installation of the block precisely on level. By adjusting the tension of the side screws, you can achieve precise positioning of the frame in space. In this case, you do not need to put pegs or adjust the openings.

• Quick dismantling. If necessary, the plates are unscrewed and the window is removed. This happens much faster than with through bolts.

• Ability to reinstall the block. Since the profile is not subject to reaming, the window system on plates can be reinstalled in another location.

• Use on walls made of different materials. In addition to concrete and brick surfaces, anchor plates adhere well to wood, foam concrete, gas silicate blocks, etc. They are especially convenient in cases where multilayer walls are used in the house: rod fasteners (screws, anchor bolts) in such situations are powerless.

• Possibility of disguise. Anchor devices open the possibility for the use of platbands, window sills and overhead slopes, well masking mounting gaps. In this case, there is no need to sink the plates into the surface of the slope, followed by sealing the resulting recesses with plaster or putty.

• Fastening reliability. The plates are well tolerated by significant operating loads, including strong wind and kickback during the opening of the valves.

• Cheap fasteners.

Have anchor plates and weak sides :

• Restrictions on the weight of the window structure. Reliability of fastening on plates is guaranteed only for small and medium-sized window units. Heavy structures (most often of a balcony type) are best installed by screwing them through the frames. This also applies to cases where several rows of windows are located on top of each other.

• Danger from frequent opening of the sashes. In this case, the window frame is experiencing additional loads, which may adversely affect its integrity. Those sashes that open very often are recommended to be additionally reinforced with bolt fastening.

• Decoration damage. It is far from always possible to disguise the anchor plate. First of all, this applies to cases of using plaster or putty as a final finish on the slopes. It is not always possible to sink fasteners into the slope surface, especially when it comes to concrete walls.

Before starting work, you need to acquire the following tools:

• Impact drill or hammer drill.
• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw.
• Hex key for adjusting fittings.
• anchor plates.
• Measuring devices (level, tape measure).
• Fastening materials (screws, self-tapping screws).
• Silicone sealant.

• It is forbidden to fix windows with mounting glue, foam, etc. Only self-tapping screws may be used as fastening material.

• Drilling must be carried out very carefully, avoiding contact between the drill chuck and the plastic frame. To avoid damage, it is recommended to use a long drill and a special plastic pad.

• It is desirable to use the activation of the percussion mechanism only on concrete walls.

• A brick wall with vertical voids is drilled at the butt interblock sections.

• It is allowed to tighten screws with a screwdriver. Particularly convenient are models that have a built-in motion limiter that allows you to control the depth of immersion of the self-tapping screw into the frame.

Installation of anchor plates

The first step is the installation of anchor plates. The optimal distance between individual fasteners on the frame is no more than 100 cm. It is recommended to equip windows of considerable height with an additional fastening unit. The distance between the end plate and the corner of the window should not exceed 25 cm, otherwise it threatens to lose the stability of the unit. Before marking, the outer plane of the frame is released from the protective film. To install the gear elements of the plate, there are special protrusions in the profile.

To make the fastener more reliable, it is reinforced with a window screw. Further, in the same way, the plates are installed along the entire profile, observing the above recommendations for the distance between the individual elements. When bending the plate in places with a notch, it is necessary to ensure that the first bend is adjacent to the frame, and the second is above the wall attachment point.

Frame installation

The installation of the window frame must be accompanied by compliance with all proportions and distances. The distance from the frame to the opening is in the range from 20 to 35 mm. Narrow openings have to be made out with additional seats under fasteners.

Having prepared the opening, a frame is inserted into it. Correction of its vertical position is carried out by driving under horizontal sections of wooden or polymer linings up to 30 mm thick.

Having exposed the structure, you can fix it to the opening. On brick and concrete walls, 6x40 mm dowels are usually used, on wooden ones - 42x45 mm. To avoid distortions, it is recommended to follow the sequence when attaching. It is best to fix the bottom corners first, which will allow the frame to be level. Top fastening is carried out at the final stage. It is recommended to fix each anchor plate with two bolts.

Foam laying

Having finished the main installation work, you need to fill the gaps between the frame and the walls of the opening with mounting foam. It is better to fill volumetric cracks in two passes, with a pause of 1.5-2 hours. On sale are several types of mounting foam with different characteristics. When choosing a suitable option, they are guided mainly by the weather features of the region. Most often, there are instructions on the packaging about this.

insulate inner part the installation joint is best with polyurethane foam, building sealant or butyl-based vapor barrier insulation tape. It is recommended to lay the foam very carefully: a lack of material will not allow to achieve good tightness of the room, and an excess amount threatens with deformation window profile. After solidification, the foam that protrudes beyond the cracks is cut off with a sharp knife. It is better to do this after 48-36 hours.

Installation of a window sill and a low tide

According to the rules, the window sill is allowed to be mounted 24 hours after the foaming of the cracks: this gives the material time to dry well and grab. In practice, this recommendation is often ignored (especially if the installation team is working). When choosing a suitable window sill, you need to consider only those options whose width exceeds the thickness outer wall. Plastic product can be easily cut to length electric jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal.

Having adjusted the window sill, it is leveled and fixed. The void that forms under the bottom must be filled with foam by placing several loads on the surface (cans of water, bricks). In this position, the product is left until the next day.

In parallel with the window sill, the tide is being installed. It is inserted into a niche under the main frame and screwed onto the window sill. As a result of this, additional protection against the ingress of external moisture into the room is created.

Exterior finish

Having installed a plastic window on the anchor plates, it is necessary to issue outer slope. At the same time, both decorative and practical goals are pursued, because. uncovered foam tends to gradually break down under the influence of atmospheric influences. The easiest option is to use plaster or starting putty for this. When applying the mortar, it is important to achieve complete coverage of the assembly joints. Concerning interior decoration slope, then it is usually carried out along with the general repair of the premises.

Conclusion

When choosing the option of fixing a plastic window, it is recommended to stop at the anchor plates. This is especially true in cases where installation work is carried out by beginners. In the course of work, it is important not to rush, exactly following the recommendations above.

You can also watch some videos

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only performance characteristics but also ease of installation. An uncomplicated process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, House master he will be able to master and carry out on his own. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter are a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, which significantly reduces heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent opening parameter. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

• mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
• with special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. With a through fastening, the window will firmly resist numerous shock loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blank double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For the installation of anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is advisable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If the installation of plastic windows with your own hands is done in wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the depth of the anchors, then for openings in log cabins and in timber walls the approach is special. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

• It is possible to equip a wooden structure with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
• Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can insert a window only in wooden box protecting the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
• Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

In building codes there are no exact recommendations about the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. The ebbs usually use standard ones attached to the window structure. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended experienced builders those who figure out how to properly insert plastic windows. Wood that can pass evaporation will reduce the technical qualities of the mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, it is advisable to equip the window block along the line of its application with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for said element to retain the necessary technical characteristics, the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate manifestation of all flaws. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values ​​of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam adheres strongly to top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

• First, release the frame from the sash, for which pull out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

• Lean a double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

• With outer surface frame, remove the protective film. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
• Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs is a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

• Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

• As pvc installation do-it-yourself windows can be carried out using different fasteners, at this stage differences appear.
  • in the opening wooden house through the holes in the frame, immediately screw in the self-tapping screw. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
  • On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
  • There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

• The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
• Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
• Fill gaps with foam. Outside and with inside close the foamed seams with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
• Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
• After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. The plastic version is 2 cm under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
• It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, it is not recommended to use windows so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.