Plaster of aerated concrete walls. Instructions for plastering gas silicate blocks Plastering aerated concrete blocks

27.06.2020

Before plastering aerated concrete inside the house, let's deal with the properties of this material for building walls. Aerated concrete blocks have a number of advantages, low specific gravity (2 times lighter than silicate brick). But their plastering is done according to the rules.

Advantages of aerated concrete blocks

The construction of houses using aerated concrete blocks is carried out quickly, because due to the light weight of the material, the laboriousness of installing walls is reduced. Aerated concrete has a low thermal conductivity, so the coefficient of thermal resistance of the material is 2-3 times less than that of ceramic bricks.

The cellular structure of aerated concrete and wood creates the same microclimate in the house. An increase in the density of aerated concrete blocks during their production causes a deterioration in the heat-saving properties of the material. This requires appropriate wall decoration. The porous structure of this material provides excellent sound insulation in rooms. The walls both "breathe" and pass water vapor with carbon dioxide.

Aerated concrete is a good thermal insulation, since it has an open porous structure and high strength, and it is also a fireproof material. Adhesive compositions are used for laying blocks, this helps to maintain the exact geometric dimensions of the building. The process of building walls does not require professionalism.

Another advantage of the blocks is their reduced sensitivity to the negative effects of the external environment. The disadvantage of aerated concrete is considered to be low bending strength. Given this characteristic of the material, the construction of a house from it is carried out on the basis of a number of measures.

These include:

arrangement of the foundation of a monolithic type;
reinforcement of floors, masonry, roof structures.

Rules for finishing the surface of aerated concrete

Before finishing walls made of aerated concrete, it is taken into account that they differ greatly from brick in their properties. Cellular lightweight concrete has always played the role of insulation. After the insulation of the aerated concrete house from the outside began to be carried out with the help of special heat insulators, the use of blocks was associated only with the construction of the building structure.

Since aluminum powder is mixed into the raw material for aerated concrete, the structure of the blocks becomes cellular, which increases their vapor permeability. This is taken into account in the process of finishing the walls of a building made of aerated concrete blocks.

Plastering is the most common method used for interior and exterior vertical surfaces. Before insulating a house made of aerated concrete, you will need to plaster the surface of the walls. They begin this work from the inside of the building, after that they move on to finishing and begin warming the facade of the house. It will be a mistake to prioritize plastering the building from the outside and performing interior decoration work for the cold season.

Most of the water that is used for finishing work on interior walls escapes through both the walls and the ventilation ducts. Minus temperatures lead to the formation of condensate from the vapor particles of water inside the walls, as well as on the exterior finish. After the water freezes, the plaster cracks and flakes off. This is proof that it is necessary to plaster aerated concrete walls from the inside of the house, and not on the facade.

Which type of plaster to choose

A layer of plaster on the wall should not interfere with its vapor permeability, so a solution of a mixture of cement and sand is not used for plastering walls. When performing work, one of the methods of interior wall decoration is used. The first of them is based on the fact that the material has a special property that ensures the vapor permeability of the walls.

If a cement-sand mortar is used when plastering aerated concrete blocks, they will quickly absorb moisture due to their structure. As a result, the surface of the walls will dry out and become covered with cracks. It will not be possible to correct the situation even after using a deep primer or putty.

Another reason why a cement-sand mortar is not used for interior plastering of a room is the low vapor permeability of the walls. When brick house already built, then this quality of plaster is no longer important. If aerated concrete was used during the construction process, and not brick, then improper plastering of the walls will cause a deterioration in the microclimate inside the building.

Special mixtures are sold in construction stores or on the market, with the help of which high-quality plastering of aerated concrete blocks is performed. Finishing is carried out according to the principle of maximum vapor barrier of blocks. The microclimate conditions inside a house made of aerated concrete will not differ from reinforced concrete buildings.

The outer layer of plaster will be durable. This is explained by the fact that after the time it takes for the moisture balance to be established in the aerated concrete wall, there is a reduction in the flow of steam into the external environment. As a result, the plaster will not flake off the surface of the facade.

Materials for a vapor-permeable layer of wall cladding

The use of plaster compositions based on gypsum and gypsum putty increases the vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls. This figure should be high, since customers and builders choose cellular concrete. Finishing materials based on gypsum are produced with the content of slaked lime and light perlite sand. After plastering with these compounds, it is not required to prime the surface of the walls. Finished plaster is able to easily conduct water vapor.

Plastering the walls inside the house using ready-made mixtures with fillers creates a high-quality cladding layer. It includes the following types of fillers:

limestone;
dolomite;
marble.

It is necessary to choose the right fillers and pay attention to the size of their constituent parts. All fractions must be combined in a single cladding solution. Manufacturers producing such mixtures have achieved ease of use. The compositions are easy to overwrite, they differ in the maximum degree of whiteness.

Polymer additives with a high vapor permeability coefficient provide more quality coating than exterior plaster. Aerated concrete has a porous structure, so it makes no sense to immediately apply putty, otherwise a lot of primer will be required. It will no longer be possible to save on it, since this will lead to the fact that the putty will begin to crack and fall off.

Creating a vapor barrier lining with your own hands

Often, polyethylene is used for vapor barrier when finishing the interior surface of a room. This is the easiest method. But often after the work is completed, there is an accumulation of water particles and swelling of the plaster.

During the construction and decoration of walls made of aerated concrete blocks, a good vapor barrier is required. Here, sand and cement plaster is used without special additives - dolomite flour or lime. This type of internal plaster allows to significantly reduce the conductivity of water particles. In this case, the plaster will peel off, but the choice of this technology remains with the developer.

Before performing work on plastering surfaces, the blocks are primed with a special solution. It is applied 3-4 times. Remember that the use of modern compositions for finishing blocks leads to a decrease in the level of vapor barrier by 25 times. High-quality adhesives, which are widely used in construction, are capable of eliminating the transmission of water particles. Putty does not make sense.

What tools will be required

It is necessary to carry out finishing work on walls made of aerated concrete with the same tools that are used for conventional plastering. To prepare the solution, a suitable plastic container is used, in which it is convenient to dilute the plaster. You will need a construction mixer with a stirring nozzle.

The dry mixture after adding water is brought to uniformity and the required density. The proportions of the components of the composition are indicated in the instructions for the mixtures. The plaster is applied to aerated concrete using a trowel using the throwing method. You can use a ladle plasterer. In some cases, a trowel is used.

The plastered surface is rubbed with a grater. To remove excess mixture from a wall with a large area, use a trowel. Level the wall using beacons. The plaster is pulled together between the guides.

A vapor-permeable finish is also performed using plasterboard panels. Be sure to follow the process technology:

the inner layer of the finish should not consist of vapor-permeable compounds;
the outer finishing layer should not be made of vapor-tight materials.

After completing the finishing work, the quality is checked using a rail, the length of which corresponds to the height of the ceilings. It is applied to the wall surface in different places horizontally and vertically. This way all inaccuracies are revealed. A deviation in the range of 6-7 mm is considered acceptable.

The technology of applying plaster on aerated concrete

To carry out the finishing of the interior of the walls of aerated concrete, various methods are used. The simplest of them is the application of a vapor-permeable finish, that is, plaster. Before its application, a number of preliminary works are carried out. The very technology of finishing walls made of aerated concrete indoors resembles plastering walls.

Blocks before starting work are cleaned of contaminants, and also leveled. After that, proceed to applying a layer of primer. It must be taken into account that materials that absorb moisture will then be used. The drying time of the primer depends on its type. Usually it does not exceed 3 hours. When the applied composition dries, proceed to the wall cladding.

The choice of gypsum mixture for plastering is carried out taking into account the purpose of the room. If this is a living room, plaster is used for wall cladding, which is designed for cellular concrete. Gypsum composition for plastering is fixed on the wall mechanically.

Gypsum plaster is used only for finishing dry rooms. It is not recommended to use it in an environment with high humidity, as well as on strongly vibrating surfaces. Gypsum plaster is used to finish the premises, after which aerated concrete blocks can not be puttyed.

If the aerated concrete surface of the walls is constantly in contact with moisture (in the bathroom), then it is treated with special preparations that resist the effects of a humid environment. 1 hour after application, the composition on the wall is leveled and the final drying and smoothing of the surface are awaited.

There are several ways to plaster walls made of aerated concrete. If you understand the properties of this material, then you will decide on the choice of mixtures and you can get a good result yourself.

Aerated concrete blocks for building houses are becoming more and more popular: they are light, even, keep heat well due to the porous structure. But their high vapor permeability imposes serious restrictions on the choice of finishing materials and the technology of their use.

In particular, before plastering aerated concrete from the outside, it is necessary to complete all the “wet” internal work, select the appropriate composition and calculate the thickness of its application. All this will be discussed in more detail in the article.

In its composition, aerated concrete is similar to ordinary concrete: it includes cement, sand, lime and water. But the addition of aluminum powder, which is a blowing agent, gives it a specific porous structure. Moreover, unlike foam concrete, the pores are open, which increases the vapor permeability of the material.

Open pores on the surface of building blocks cannot be left unfinished for many reasons.

For instance:

Impact of precipitation. Wetting the outer layer reduces the thermal insulation properties of the walls, leads to the appearance of cracks on the surface and even their destruction when exposed to temperature changes;
Settling of airborne dust. It, like rainwater, has an acidic character, and prolonged exposure to an acidic environment causes a darkening of the surface and leads to a deterioration in the appearance of the blocks.

That is why the instruction requires mandatory external finishing of such surfaces. It can be performed different ways, including the installation of hinged ventilated facades, brick cladding with a ventilation gap, etc.

But most often, a special facade plaster for aerated concrete is used for protective and decorative finishes. Its main purpose is to protect walls from the factors listed above, but at the same time, the coating should not reduce their vapor permeability, preventing the diffusion of water vapor from the inside to the outside.

Note. The same requirement must be met by decorative paint and varnish compositions, therefore, film-forming paints are not used for finishing such facades.

Specifically, the brands of such plaster will be discussed below, and now it is necessary to emphasize this important point, as requirements for the timing of the application of exterior finishes.

It should only be run after:

Building shrinkage;
Completion of interior finishing associated with "wet processes": floor screeding, wall plastering and puttying, ceiling leveling, painting, etc. The fact is that the solutions used in this case contain a lot of water, which, in the process of drying, evaporates and is removed, including through the pores of aerated concrete. If you block her way with a layer of external plaster with your own hands, it will accumulate in the material, which will lead to the loss of its properties and flaking of the exterior finish.

Compositions for plastering aerated concrete

Like all other similar mixtures, facade plaster for aerated concrete is produced both on a mineral basis (see. Mineral facade plaster: material features) and on a polymer basis.

Mineral mixtures

To finish walls made of aerated concrete and gas silicate, light mineral plasters are used, in which perlite or other porous and light filler is added instead of ordinary sand. Such a composition is light in weight, does not exert a large load on the base and has an increased vapor permeability.

Many manufacturers produce such plaster.

We list the most popular brands:

Founding Startwell T-21. Cement-lime mixture, suitable for both outdoor and indoor use. It is applied manually or mechanically (see Machine plaster: how to do it right).

Kreps Extra-Light. Cement-lime mixture with fine-grained sand and special additives for machine and manual application on facades, interior walls, ceilings.

Note. When Kreps Antifreeze, an antifreeze additive of the same brand, is added to the solution, it can be applied at ambient temperatures down to minus 10 degrees.

Plitonite T1 and Plitonite T. The first composition is intended for sealing joints and rough leveling of surfaces, has a maximum filler size of 2.5 mm, is applied up to 30 mm thick. The second is a thin-layer leveling plaster with a maximum fraction of 0.63 mm and an allowable layer thickness of 10 mm.

Baumit ArtoPlast (Austria). Thin-layer cement facade plaster for aerated concrete and cellular concrete. It is also used for attaching a reinforcing fiberglass mesh to a leveled base.
Baumit Grund Putz Leicht. Lightweight lime-cement plaster with filler that improves the thermal insulation properties of facades.

Polymer blends

Many compositions based on acrylic resins are suitable for plastering aerated concrete, as they have good vapor permeability. But silicone (see. Silicone plaster: material features) and silicate mixtures can boast of similar properties, which can also be used as a finishing decorative coating. The leader in their production is the Austrian company BAUMIT.

Among the most popular are the following ready-to-use formulations:

Baumit SilikatTop is a silicate plaster with a textured or rough surface, high vapor permeability and weather resistance.

Baumit SilikonTop is a silicone plaster with a textured or rough surface, normal vapor permeability and weather resistance. It has dirt-repellent properties and is easy to clean.

Note. The price of finished polymer polymer plasters is higher than mineral ones. But they can be tinted before application, eliminating the need for subsequent surface painting.

Whatever mixture you choose for exterior decoration, you must follow the following rule: the vapor permeability of the finished multi-layer "pie" consisting of internal plaster, the wall itself and facade plaster, should increase from the inside to the outside. It is only allowed to slightly deviate from this requirement, using materials with the same vapor permeability for adjacent layers.

Technology for finishing aerated concrete with plaster

It should be noted that the finishing of facades made of aerated concrete, if it is carried out in accordance with all the rules, is not the fastest, easiest and cheapest operation. It consists of several stages.

Primer

Before applying the primer to the surface, it is necessary to repair all seams and cracks, clean the surface of the walls from dust and dirt. It must be dry, and the work must be carried out at an ambient temperature of 10-25 degrees above zero.

The main purpose of the primer is to strengthen the base and protect it from moisture. Therefore, it should be suitable for use on loose and porous surfaces. Before buying, carefully study its composition, properties and purpose, information about which is indicated on the package.

As a rule, hydrophobizing compounds based on siloxane acrylate are used to work on aerated concrete.

Reinforcement

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the surface, a reinforcing layer is required (see Reinforcing mesh for plaster: how to apply), which is used as an alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh. Alkali resistance is a mandatory requirement for this material, since the plaster solution can completely destroy it over time, which will lead to cracks and peeling of the coating. Therefore, saving on the grid is not worth it.

It is attached to the base either with self-tapping screws, or glued onto a freshly applied layer of plaster. In the case when insulation and plastering of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete is performed, the mesh is glued on top of the insulation layer.

Plaster

External plaster for aerated concrete is applied over the grid in the usual way. The thickness of the layer depends on the state of the surface and the size of the aggregate fraction. The recommended thickness is also indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

There are other ways facade decoration aerated concrete blocks. For example, if the walls are neatly built of even blocks, it is enough to process them with a grater, rub the seams, fill in small potholes and treat them with a vapor-permeable putty. It is diluted to a creamy consistency and applied to the surface with a roller or a wide brush.

You can introduce a water-based color scheme into the finished solution, then the facades do not have to be painted. But it is advisable to repeat this treatment twice, allowing the first layer to dry before applying the second.

Conclusion

Having decided to plaster a house built of aerated concrete, you need to carefully approach the choice of materials. Only if all the recommendations listed above are followed, such a finish will not worsen the properties of the walls and will last a long time.

As for the technology of applying plaster, it is described in detail in the video in this article. Study it carefully before taking on this difficult task.

Recently, with the help of blocks of cellular concrete, they not only carry out thermal insulation, but also build houses. This material is somewhat "capricious", so the plastering of aerated concrete walls inside and outside the room should be carried out taking into account some nuances.

Many craftsmen believe that finishing work on cellular concrete walls must be carried out immediately after the construction of the building, but this undertaking is quite risky. This procedure is best done after a year. The fact is that aerated concrete must have time to dry before the onset of cold weather, which can be prevented by the plaster layer. If moisture remains inside in winter, it will freeze, which will lead to cracking of the material.

First of all, internal plastering for aerated concrete should be carried out, after which you can proceed to the finishing of external surfaces. You can even play for a little time by doing the interior work in the fall, and the exterior in late spring. The only exceptions are buildings on the coast. In this case, the first step is to protect the outer walls from atmospheric influences.

First of all, internal plastering is carried out, and then external

Important! It is strictly forbidden to plaster a house from aerated concrete from November to March.

Is it necessary to plaster gas blocks outside

External plaster for aerated concrete is completely optional. On the contrary, many craftsmen recommend immediately ordering walls of such a thickness that would be enough to ensure comfortable temperature inside the housing without the use of plaster outside. An improperly selected composition or a violation of the application technology can lead to the destruction of the entire structure.

Many craftsmen oppose external plastering of aerated concrete walls.

Some advise using expanded polystyrene for insulation, but this material is practically impervious to water vapor. This leads to the fact that condensate accumulates at the junction of the insulation and gas blocks. In the cold season, it freezes and leads to cracking of cellular concrete. If, nevertheless, it was decided to use expanded polystyrene, then it is necessary to lay a layer of 80 mm, while the thermal resistance of the heat-insulating material should not be lower than this indicator of aerated concrete.

On a note! To get rid of the need for additional procedures, it is enough to order a wall 10 cm thick in warm regions, 30 cm in cold regions, and 20 cm is suitable for baths.

How to plaster gas blocks

The question of how to plaster aerated concrete outside and inside the room is not at all idle. It should be noted right away that plastering on aerated concrete cannot be carried out using cement-sand mortars.

To properly plaster aerated concrete walls outside or inside the house, you must use the following compositions:

Internal plastering of cellular concrete walls

Before plastering aerated concrete, attention should be paid to the thorough preparation of the base. To do this, remove all irregularities by means of a planer or a special tool for processing blocks of cellular concrete. This process is recommended to be carried out even at the stage of building walls, but some builders simply forget about it in order to save time. Planer processing does not affect the performance properties of the future coating, but with its help it can be significantly reduced during finishing.

After that, you need to apply a primer. Some masters dilute the primer with water, but this is fundamentally wrong. So you can save a little on the solution, but at the same time, the adhesion of the treated blocks will drop significantly, which may affect the duration of the coating. To save primer, it is better to pre-moisten the roller with water and pass it along the wall, then repeat the procedure, but with a primer. For wet rooms it is better to use deep penetration impregnation, for dry rooms - simple.

For better adhesion of plaster to blocks, it is necessary to pre-treat the walls with a primer

Then proceed to the installation of plaster beacons. This is one of the simplest operations, since the blocks processed by the planer do not have large drops. Using the building level, you need to find the maximum protruding point, add the profile height to the value, and, according to the value obtained, install beacons over the entire cultivated area with an interval of 130-160 cm.

Installation of plaster beacons will allow you to apply plaster perfectly evenly

When the preparatory work is completed, they begin to plaster the walls from the gas block. It is carried out using the following technology:

First of all, they are applied by the method of throwing. It is called spraying, and its thickness is no more than 3 mm.
After setting the spray, you can take on the main layer. It is called a primer, it is on the quality of applying this layer that all indicators of the finished coating depend. The material is collected on a spatula and transferred to the wall, so the entire area between the two beacons is treated.
Then you need to take the rule, press it against the beacons at the bottom of the wall and lift it up, while making zigzag movements from side to side. The solution will remain on the blade of the rule, it should be thrown up the wall. The procedure must be repeated until the blade remains clean after lifting.
After the material has set, beacons are removed from it, and the resulting strobes are filled with a solution. Next, handle the corners and hard-to-reach places, after which the entire wall is left to dry.
After the main layer has dried, the last one is applied - the coating. It is considered decorative, so its thickness is 1-3 mm. It is carefully leveled, and when it dries, rubbed with sandpaper.
It is necessary to wait for the strength of the material to set (the time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), and you can proceed to the fine finish.

The plastered coating is pasted over with wallpaper or painted. As a paint, it is better to use materials based on acrylic, latex, cement or organic solvents.

Plastering of external walls made of aerated concrete

Plastering aerated concrete outside can be carried out in two ways: applying in one layer or in several. The single-layer version loses somewhat, so it is recommended to opt for the second method. Before plastering a concrete wall, you need to carry out the same manipulations with it as with inner wall. After that, it is necessary to install a reinforcing mesh.

Exterior plaster of aerated concrete walls is made using a reinforcing mesh

For these purposes, metal products with a wire with a diameter of 1 mm and a side of 16 mm or a fiberglass mesh with a cell of 5 cm are used. This product is cut into fragments of such an area that it is convenient to work with them. After that, a plaster mortar is applied to the surface with a layer of no more than 5 mm, while it is fresh, the mesh is pressed against it and it is sunk.

Then you need to pause and wait for the solution to dry. It is easy to check this: you need to sprinkle some water on the coating, if the liquid is quickly absorbed, you can continue to work.

In turn, with an interval of 3-4 days, two more layers of material of 10 mm are applied. After drying, the plastered surface is rubbed in the same way as the internal ones.

The last stage of wall finishing is plaster grouting.

On a note! Before plastering concrete walls, it is important to immediately determine the type of finish. Different types of paint require different types of plaster.

Aerated concrete blocks rarely require any finishing other than decorative, but if such a need arises, then, first of all, you need to choose the right material for aerated concrete plaster, as well as follow the above rules and technologies.

Aerated concrete blocks are a convenient, light and warm building material for building walls. At the same time, its strength makes it possible to build two-story residential buildings, external walls and partitions in frame structures, any commercial, commercial and industrial low-rise buildings.

Aerated concrete has two serious drawbacks that require measures to be taken to provide additional protection in order to increase the durability and reliability of the building. This is the presence of through channels that can be blown by the wind, and the hygroscopicity of the material, which contributes to the accumulation of moisture and a decrease in thermal insulation properties. The solution to the first problem is solved by plastering from the inside of the premises, and the second - by installing a moisture-impervious facade.

Features of performing plastering work on aerated concrete

When performing plastering of aerated concrete walls indoors, it is necessary to take into account:

Open pores on the surface of the blocks, even with very even masonry, do not allow the use of putty alone as a coating. Processing should be done in two stages. This is the initial application of a cement-sand plaster layer and, after that, finishing putty.
To strengthen the surface of the walls and increase adhesion, before plastering, mandatory impregnation with deeply penetrating soil or the use of a reinforcing mesh when applying the first layer of plaster is required. In this case, the grid must be securely fixed to the wall.
Aerated concrete, unlike brick and concrete, is not very durable and can be damaged even as a result of not very strong blows with a hammer. This should be taken into account when laying concealed wiring and pipes before subsequent plastering.

The high hygroscopicity of aerated concrete makes it necessary to start plastering work inside the building. In the meantime, the remaining moisture will leave the wall massif, after which it will be possible to do external plastering or an insulated ventilated facade. If you change the order of work, then part of the moisture will remain inside the blocks, which can lead to a decrease in the thermal insulation properties of the material, and in the worst case, to its destruction.

The structure of aerated concrete.

Plaster materials

Manufacturers of ready-made building mixes offer a wide variety of dry mixes for sale. Today in stores you can buy materials based on:

popular cement, lime and gypsum;
ground silicate blocks - the basis for the preparation of liquid glass;
expensive silicone compounds;
cement and fine mineral chips;
decorative acrylic mixtures.

Plastering walls with factory-made materials is less troublesome, but they are much more expensive. With a large amount of work, it is better to prepare a working solution yourself. It will be cheaper, and you will know exactly the composition of the applied coating.

However, it is impossible to use a traditional cement-sand mortar due to the strong porosity of the surface. It will be poorly fixed even with a grid. The best mixtures than plastering aerated concrete walls inside the house are based on gypsum or lime. It could be:

gypsum-lime composition;
a mixture of gypsum with fine washed sand;
cement, lime, filler and plasticizer.

The application of these solutions is carried out on a plaster mesh or, if available, slots sawn in the wall with a depth of 2-5 cm.

Consumption of materials

To determine the amount of materials required for plastering a wall, it is necessary to multiply its area by the layer thickness and decompose the resulting value into the constituent components of the working solution. The thickness of the plaster layer can be accurately determined after the installation of beacons or by a series of measurements on all walls.

It is better to buy materials a little more, by 10-15%. This will ensure that the full range of work is completed, and if there is a small surplus, it will still be spent on straightening individual places after installing sockets, switches, wiring and other work.

In addition to the constituent components of the plaster mortar, do not forget to purchase metal beacon profiles, soil and a polymer mesh.

Tools to get the job done

To comply with the technology of plastering aerated concrete walls indoors, you will need:

stable ladder or mobile platform;
bath for pouring soil;
roller and paint brush;
plumb and building level;
measuring tape 3 or 5 meters;
two rules 1.5 and 2.5 meters long;
hammer and chisel;
a capacious container for the preparation of a plaster solution;
trowel or trowel;
wide and medium spatula;
grater, trowel and malka;
falcon;
screwdrivers;
metal scissors.

Prepare a small shovel and buckets for water and mortar.

Preparing walls for plaster

After acquiring materials and preparing the tool, you can proceed to pre-treat the surface and prepare it for plastering indoors.

By this time, general construction work should be completed, screed work completed, window and door blocks installed, electrical wiring made and concealed pipes laid. The surface of the walls for plastering must be cleaned of all types of contaminants. Existing defects must be repaired or chipped.

Closing cracks.

At the next stage, the walls are covered with soil directly along the grid for two times. This will provide better adhesion (adhesion) plaster mixture with aerated concrete. To apply the first layer of soil, the existing composition is diluted with water 1: 1. After it dries, a second layer is applied from the estimated consumption of 160-180 g/m 2 .

Further, a polymer plaster mesh is fixed on the plane of the wall. This can be done with tile adhesive, type CM11, or with special dowel clamps at least 15 mm long. Fastening to the adhesive is done by spreading the diluted adhesive over the tile.

Stucco mesh.

The leveling of this layer is carried out with a notched trowel, which will create deep stripes for good adhesion of the plaster mortar to the reinforced adhesive layer. The presence of such a layer allows you to use for finishing a solution of any composition used in construction, but it will cost more.

If necessary, profile metal beacons are installed on a primed or glued surface, indicating the exact position of a flat vertical plane. If the wall is already even, then you can immediately start applying the first plaster layer.

Instructions for applying plaster on aerated concrete walls

The technology of plastering walls made of aerated concrete blocks is almost no different from finishing other materials. The main difference lies in the conduct preparatory work, which were described above.

So, how to plaster aerated concrete walls indoors? The plaster solution is applied to the wall in two stages: spraying with liquid soil and covering with final leveling. The solution should be kneaded in small batches, which can be worked out in 1-2 hours. The finished solution must be kept for 15-20 minutes before use.

The solution for spraying on reinforced tile adhesive is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 2 and diluted with water to the density of liquid sour cream. After that, it is thrown or sprayed with a thin layer on the surface of the prepared wall. The thickness of the spray should be within 3-5 mm, but not less than 3.

Sketching.

For the main plaster coating, the solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:5. To increase the plasticity of the material, it is recommended to add lime, plasticizer or liquid detergent. The coating is applied until the soil is completely dry, preferably at the beginning of the setting of the mortar.

Grout.

The layer is thrown onto the surface with a trowel and leveled with a rule. After that, the alignment is performed by a trowel, which is moved along the wall in different directions until a flat surface is obtained.

When preparing the wall for tiles, this is where the plastering work ends. If you plan to stick wallpaper or paint, then the plastered surface after complete drying should be puttied with a special gypsum composition.

The putty mortar is applied with spatulas and leveled with a grater, which is moved along the wall in a circular motion. Finishing is best done with wide strokes of the large rule. This will eliminate the remaining small errors.

The difference in the performance of external plaster walls

There is no big difference in the technology of plastering walls from the outside, but, given the increased negative impact environment, on the surface, the ratio of cement and sand should be less. It is even better to plaster aerated concrete walls with prefabricated ready-made plaster mixtures for outdoor work.

Finishing should not be applied to a damp surface or on uncured aerated concrete. In rainy weather, walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be protected with plastic wrap to avoid excessive moisture penetration.

Technological break between the end of masonry and the start of plastering

A number of experts claim that plastering of walls can be performed no earlier than six months after the completion of the masonry and installation of the roof. However, for this period, it is necessary to provide reliable protection against atmospheric moisture for the outer surface of the walls. Otherwise, when frost sets in, the water inside the blocks may freeze and cause the destruction of the material.

If the foundation of the house is a slab foundation of a monolithic type, then there is no need to wait for shrinkage. Plastering work can begin immediately. From all of the above, the question of whether it is necessary to plaster the walls of aerated concrete blocks can only be answered in the affirmative.

The procedure for work with insulation

In order to insulate expanded clay concrete walls on your own, you should strictly adhere to the technology of work. The process consists of several stages: surface preparation, preparation of the mortar, application of the adhesive composition on the boards, installation of insulation, creation of a vapor barrier layer, reinforcement, and cladding.

Materials and tools

For work you will need:

insulation;
fiberglass facade mesh;
primer;
adhesive composition for insulation;
putty;
drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
containers for the preparation of glue and putty;
cuvette and brush for applying a primer;
construction level;
spatulas - narrow, wide, serrated;
dowels are umbrella-shaped;
construction knife;
mounting foam;
roulette;
vapor barrier material (membrane);
construction tape.

Depending on which cladding method is chosen, other materials will also be needed: brick, siding or facade plaster.

Training

The surface is cleaned of debris, dust, dirt. Apply a layer of primer, wait until it dries, proceed to the application of plaster. The wall is primed again to ensure high-quality adhesion of the insulation to the surface.

The next stage in the process of insulating walls from expanded clay blocks is the preparation of a solution

Released today a large number of adhesive compositions, and when choosing it is worth paying attention that it is suitable for the selected insulation. The solution is prepared, focusing on the instructions on the package.

Application of the composition and installation of plates

The adhesive must be applied using a notched trowel, distributing a thin layer over the entire surface of the wall. There should be no empty lots. After that, the composition is applied to the plate itself - around the perimeter and in the center.

Installation starts from the bottom of the wall, go sequentially around the perimeter of the building. With this method, all the plates in the first row will have time to firmly fix, and the load from those installed above will not move them. The evenness of the position of each plate is checked using the building level. The second and subsequent rows are performed with a shift of half the length of the plate. To do this, cut the slab in half using a construction knife.

If in some places the sheets do not fit tightly to each other, the space is filled with mounting foam.

Additional fixing and installation of vapor barrier

After curing adhesive solution(about a day later) the insulation to the expanded clay concrete is additionally fixed with dowels. They are driven in along the perimeter of the plates and in the center.

When using mineral or basalt wool, a vapor barrier layer is required to protect the material from getting wet. For this purpose, special membrane films are used, which also protect from the wind. The film is fixed by placing the strips vertically. In this case, each next strip should overlap the previous one by at least 10 cm. The joints are glued with construction tape.

Reinforcement

Proceed to the installation of reinforcing mesh. It is attached vertically. Using a tape measure, measure the height of the wall, cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length. Apply plaster to the area of \u200b\u200bthe insulation, press the mesh into it. This must be done quickly before the plaster has hardened. In order to level the surface of the plaster at the same time as pressing the mesh, it is recommended to use a facade spatula for work.

Finishing

Cladding after the insulation of expanded clay walls can be done using brickwork, siding installation or using plaster.

The wall is plastered after the composition layer on which the reinforcing mesh is fixed has completely dried out. After that, the surface is primed again, they wait until the wall dries, then they start applying the starting and finishing compositions. The final stage is painting the facade.

The second option is to install siding. In this case, the reinforcing mesh is not required, the cladding is installed directly on the slabs. Since the "wet" method does not require the installation of battens, the installation of siding will require the installation of anchors to which the slats will be attached.

Why is brick cladding less popular than the "wet" method? She needs to create a foundation and waterproof it. This entails additional financial and time costs.

It is necessary to insulate the walls of a building built of expanded clay concrete blocks - this not only reduces heat loss, but also lengthens the life of the house. The cost of the materials that will be required is affordable, and the work itself is quite possible to carry out on its own.

The technology of applying plaster of claydite-concrete walls

It is not difficult to do the plastering of walls from expanded clay concrete blocks with your own hands, it is important to properly prepare the surface and follow the instructions. . Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any

It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can get by with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

Prepare the base - thoroughly clean the surface of dust and dirt, remove debris, remove oil stains, if any. It is necessary to check the interblock seams and knock down the protruding solution;
Inspect the surface for cracks, seal all found cracks, chips, holes and seams between the blocks with cement mortar. Leave the surface until the solution is completely dry.
Priming - the choice and method of priming depends on the type of plaster. For cement-sand mortar, priming is not a mandatory step. You can get by with plain water, which is applied to the blocks immediately before the plaster. When using gypsum plaster, it is required to prime the surface with concrete contact or quartz primer. For acrylic and silicate plasters, special solutions are also used.

Surface reinforcement - reinforcement is required if the plaster layer exceeds 1.5 centimeters. Experts suggest using a reinforcing mesh or fiberglass mesh, the structure is attached to self-tapping screws.
Application of the solution - the prepared solution is applied in two layers. Before starting work, it is necessary to fix vertical beacons, by which you can navigate in the future. The first layer of plaster is thrown onto the surface with a trowel and carefully leveled by the rule along the lighthouses. The resulting surface is left for 6 hours until completely dry, then all beacons are removed and a finishing layer is applied.

With a layer thickness of up to 15 mm, reinforcement is not required.

Plaster is an important stage in construction, it extends the life of the structure, protects the walls from moisture and temperature extremes.

Construction from expanded clay concrete blocks. plaster finish inside and out

The production of expanded clay concrete blocks is very simple and cheap. The production of the block does not require special and expensive equipment. Expanded clay concrete can be easily produced under conditions. This property should reduce the price of such a block, but, as is usually the case in our consumer society, it is not the end consumer (you and I) who benefits from the reduction, and even receives from this not quite the benefits as it might seem. The main beneficiary is the seller, but that, as they say, is a completely different story.

Using heavier (dense) blocks, it is quite possible to build high-rise buildings.

When building a wall from expanded clay concrete blocks, it is not necessary to arrange a vapor barrier, because the vapor permeability of expanded clay concrete is quite high. It is quite comparable with the vapor permeability of a brick. A little less.

When using expanded clay concrete blocks in private construction, it is possible, and even necessary, to use lighter blocks. The thermal conductivity of such blocks is already comparable to wood, and the strength allows the construction of two or even three storey building covered with reinforced concrete hollow slabs. Thus, expanded clay concrete will allow the total weight of the house to be less and at the same time save on the complexity of the foundation and insulation.

In a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, ordinary dowels with no less ordinary screws are easily held. In this way, expanded clay concrete blocks compare favorably with foam-aerated concrete, in which neither dowels nor screws are held, and it is necessary to use fasteners specially designed for these materials.

In our country, there are quite a few regions where there is an abundance of minerals such as limestone and clay. Obviously, in such regions there are and successfully operate the production of cement, expanded clay and expanded clay concrete. Before buying expanded clay concrete on the market, you can look around and suddenly find out that there is a factory in the immediate vicinity of your construction site where you can buy the same building material much cheaper and without intermediary markups. Proavda, this situation is becoming less and less possible due to the development of our economy, in which the end consumer is in the most disadvantageous position. But I digress again.

Difficulties/Dangers/Disadvantages

As I often say, this seems to have become one of my favorite sayings, any good idea can be brought to the point of absurdity by ugly execution. So it is with blocks. Non-compliance with technology, the use of high-quality raw materials, of course, to reduce the cost of products, the suppression of characteristics, all this creates difficulties for private developers.

When buying blocks, carefully look at how long their dimensions are. Check the block in your hand to determine, at least approximately, whether you are being cheated with density. For example, a block of 20x20x40 cm is 16,000 cubic centimeters. In one cubic meter a million cubic centimeters. We divide a million by 16 thousand and get 62 and a half blocks in one cubic meter. Unexpected result, right? If a cubic meter of blocks weighs 500 kilograms, then one block will weigh only 8 kilograms. It's pretty small. If the blocks are hollow, then they will weigh even less. The calculation in this case is very complicated due to the difficulties in calculating the volume of one block.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will turn out to be lighter than a brick house, but not light enough to build it on a lightweight foundation. The foundation, however, as always, requires calculation.

When laying a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, cold bridges are almost certainly formed. It is good to make thin walls with external thermal insulation from such blocks.

It is better not to leave the laying of expanded clay concrete blocks unfinished for more than a couple of years. This can adversely affect the durability of the building.

A wall made of expanded clay concrete block is less breathable than a brick wall. However, given the fact that there is also an interior decoration of our walls, this issue is not so important.

When insulating a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, I, as always, recommend doing it on the outside of the building and using mineral wool slabs of medium and low density. To calculate the thickness of the insulation, you can use the thermal conductivity calculator and an example of its use.

Personally, I like such a building material as expanded clay concrete blocks. I have used it in my practice. I like its strength and lightness at the same time. True, I took the blocks at a large plant and chose the parties. It seems to me that this wall material is better than brick in terms of price-quality ratio.

Thank you for your attention!

Dmitry Belkin

The technology of applying the plaster composition on expanded clay concrete blocks

Plastering can be done by hand, or using special plastering machines. If you have enough experience and knowledge, you can do the work yourself. If there is no certainty that everything will turn out qualitatively, then it is better to use the help of professional plasterers.

Wall plastering

Wall surface preparation

Before you start plastering the walls, you need to clean the surface from the influx of masonry mortar, dirt, grease and oil stains.

Products are characterized by a low coefficient of water absorption, that is, they practically do not absorb water from the solution. Therefore, preliminary priming of the surface of the blocks is not required.

Before applying cement-sand plaster, you can treat the blocks with a solution of cement with water, or simply wet them. Before starting work with other types of plaster, pre-treatment of the surface of the blocks is required. special composition improving the adhesion of materials.

Preparing the wall surface for plaster

Due to the even surface of expanded clay blocks, the required thickness of the plaster layer is relatively small - from 1 cm to 1.5 cm. Under such conditions, the use of a reinforcing mesh is not required.
In the case of further wall decoration with tiles or stone, it is possible to further strengthen the plaster layer with such a grid.
However, in the presence of masonry defects and the need to apply a thicker layer of mortar, the use of masonry mesh is mandatory. For these purposes, a galvanized mesh or glass mesh is used. It is attached to the surface of the blocks with self-tapping screws.

Reinforcing mesh installation

The final stage of preparation is the installation of beacons with a step corresponding to the length of the rule, and setting them according to the level. The video in this article will tell you more about this.

Plaster preparation and application

Cement-sand mortar is easy to prepare yourself. But an easier option is to buy a ready-made dry mix. As a rule, on the package there is an instruction for its use.

The plaster mixture must be diluted with water and mixed thoroughly. Its consistency should be thick enough not to run down the surface.

With the manual method of plastering, the solution is applied to the surface of the blocks with a trowel, and leveled by the rule, taking into account the location of the beacons. Plaster on blocks of expanded clay concrete is made in two layers.

Alignment on beacons of gypsum plaster

Six hours after applying the first layer, it must be carefully rubbed.

Then the final layer of plaster is applied. To prevent cracking of the plastered surface, it must be covered with a film. The solution will dry gradually and evenly.

Mechanized block plastering

In the production of finishing works in large volumes, it is more expedient to use a mechanized method of applying plaster.

It has a number of undeniable advantages over manual plastering:

Mixing the solution is much faster and better.
Uniform application of plaster on the surface of a block structure.
The quality of adhesion of the solution to the blocks is more durable, due to its supply under pressure.
Significant savings in building materials, reduced labor costs.

When using plastering machines, it is necessary to select special dry mixes for machine plastering.

The use of a special plastering machine

Wall plastering will not only create additional protection for the wall structure, but also give the whole house an attractive aesthetic appearance.

Plastered facade of a country house

Plastering the interior walls of the premises, makes it possible to further decorate the interior with any materials.

Combination of wall painting with wallpapering

Properly selected plaster mixture, as well as professionally executed wall plaster, will significantly extend the life of the building.

Beautiful, reliable, durable - claydite-concrete walls can simply be plastered!

A wide choice of modern plaster materials makes it possible to comprehensively protect the house, creating its unique appearance both outside and inside.

What materials to use

It is possible to carry out wall insulation from expanded clay concrete blocks using various materials:

Mineral and basalt wool. This is one of the most popular heaters. Its advantages: incombustibility, low thermal conductivity, environmental safety and affordable price. The disadvantage of mineral wool is that it needs additional waterproofing, since it easily absorbs moisture and can become unusable over time. Produced in the form of plates and rolls. The higher the density of the material, the higher the cost.
Styrofoam. With the help of this light, inexpensive and easy-to-use insulation, you can carry out work quickly enough, and do it yourself. The disadvantages of such a solution include the instability of the material to the action of moisture and pests, fire hazard. Produced in the form of plates.
Glass wool. Withstands temperature extremes, does not dampen and is cheaper than mineral wool. However, when working with the material, safety precautions should be strictly observed - the smallest glass wool fibers can damage the respiratory tract and skin.
Penoplex. It has characteristics similar to polystyrene, but it is more expensive and practically does not let air through. Resistant to rodents, high humidity. It is produced in the form of plates with locks, due to which the installation process of the insulation is as simple as possible.

Advice! Answering the question of how to insulate the expanded clay block from the outside, experienced builders recommend mineral or basalt wool.

The nuances of the work

There are 3 ways of external insulation of expanded clay concrete walls:

Ventilated façade. When choosing this method, first a frame is created, inside which insulation boards are laid. It is important to consider that the crate is attached to the wall, creating an additional load on it, so this method is not recommended.
Laying insulation between the block and facing bricks. This method is considered the most reliable and durable, but the cost of such a solution is high, and therefore not available to everyone.
"Wet" method. The budgetary method of external insulation, used most often. It consists in the fact that the insulation is fixed to the wall using a special solution, after which it is covered with a vapor barrier material, on top of which plaster is applied. The advantages of this option: the absence of a serious load on the wall, the ability to paint the facade of the building in any color, the low cost of materials and work, the protection of expanded clay concrete from the influence of external factors (precipitation, temperature changes, winds).

Important! Before insulating expanded clay concrete blocks from the outside, they need to be plastered. This increases the wall's ability to retain heat.

Plastering of expanded clay blocks

Choosing a mixture for plastering the facade of a building in our time is not difficult. The compositions adapted to modern conditions have a very strong base. They do not crack, do not crumble for the next season. As soon as the plaster is applied to the wall, it should be covered with any facade paint. Such enamel will protect the walls from unnecessary dampness and prevent vapor permeability.

On these types of blocks, plaster based on cement and sand is applied. It is combined with masonry. For better performance of work, you can use a special grid, but this is not a prerequisite. A galvanized mesh of a flat sample is placed on the cement base. It is attached with screws. The washers will be a suspension made of zinc with perforations, divided into plates. Washers of such a plan have a minimum thickness, respectively, will not increase the plaster layer. Such indicators are very important for some surfaces.

To make your work as easy as possible, plasticizers should be added to the solution.

Plaster from a mixture of gypsum is warmer and more airy. It has a lower density. To improve adhesion to the wall, it is treated with a composition intended for this. There are ready-made gypsum plasters, consisting of concrete-contact ingredients. Preliminary action with such grounds is not required. Reinforcement is carried out by attracting a polymer mesh.

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Ventilated facade on KBB walls

If you have chosen a ventilated facade and insulated your house with basalt wool, you can mount it in a wooden crate or in the space between steel hangers. I do not recommend you to insulate a house from KBB with polystyrene foam under the ventilation facade.

Why? Because there are several reasons why foam plastic as a heater for a ventilation facade is completely unsuitable:

Styrofoam is a combustible material, it cannot be used in systems with a ventilated facade. Rodents feel great in such a pie if you nevertheless make foam plastic in a ventilated facade. Your insulation will fall down the ventilation gap.

Basalt wool, which you can use, is deprived of these shortcomings in the ventilation facade. You can also use polyurethane foam, resole foam or ecowool.

After installing the battens or hangers and subsequent insulation, you can mount the outer decorative layer on the ventilated facade.

What is suitable in this case for a KBB house:

Porcelain tilesClinker panelsVinyl sidingMetal sidingFiber cement panelsPlankenBlock house

With these materials, you can form a decorative layer in the ventilated facade for your home. How to mount them - look at this site, everything is described in detail.

Requirements for materials for block plastering

When finishing cellular concrete with your own hands, the right choice of materials is of great importance. The solution must meet a number of requirements.

High strength. Cellular blocks are not durable, which requires their protection from wear, abrasion, mechanical shock, scratches and other damage.
Good moisture resistance. The pores on the surface actively absorb moisture, due to which the wall gets wet, this requires the exterior finish to be made with a waterproof layer.
Sufficient adhesion. Otherwise, the composition will simply fall off. It is better to use mixtures made on the basis of a binder cement composition and various additives that increase adhesion.
High plasticity. It is necessary that the layer be able to withstand small surface changes in geometry resulting from temperature changes and shrinkage. For these purposes, the composition must contain polymeric plasticizers and other elements that make the dried layer sufficiently flexible.
Frost resistance.

What kind of plaster is suitable for expanded clay concrete walls

The surface of a building made of such blocks, depending on the purpose of the premises, is covered with:

A mortar based on sand and cement (see Optimum ratio of cement and sand for plaster). The price of such a composition is relatively small, and its acquisition is available to everyone.
Special cement-based mixtures with various additives, plasticizers and fillers. It is more convenient to work with such plaster, it is more durable, it has a number of positive characteristics.
Hydrophobic compositions. Used to protect the walls of buildings erected in complex climatic conditions, or surfaces below ground zero.
Gypsum-based solutions. They are used only for internal plastering of residential premises, which have normal humidity.

Tip: A basic requirement for any kind finishing material- the possibility of its application in a thick layer, and the presence of good vapor permeability.

Features of gypsum plaster for expanded clay houses

Some features of the use of gypsum plaster:

The basis of the blocks is cement, and the plaster is gypsum.
The two materials have a different acidity or pH level.
Expanded clay concrete has an alkaline reaction, while gypsum gives an acid reaction. When mixing such media, a neutralization process occurs.
After applying gypsum plaster to a wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, a neutralization reaction occurs. As a result, strength is lost at the media interface, which can lead to peeling of the plaster.

To solve this problem you will need:

Prime the wall surfaces well with a primer specially designed for concrete foundations. Wherein:

the first layer is diluted with water so that the composition penetrates deeply into the material, creating a reinforced layer;
after the first has dried, the undiluted second is applied, creating the desired film on the border between the media separations.

Gypsum plaster is used.

Tip: Priming the surface of the walls must be done without fail, for any type of finish, which significantly increases the adhesion strength of the plaster and the base.

Claydite concrete walls can be finished with any ready-made dry mixes used for buildings made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks with high vapor permeability (see Plaster for cellular concrete: how to choose).

Claydite concrete wall decoration

Masonry, whether it is made of bricks or blocks, is not recommended to be left unprotected from moisture and frost from the outside of the building, the only exception can be facing bricks good quality. It is also necessary to take into account such a nuance as the thermal conductivity of the walls of the house. Many private developers are building houses with a single block thickness of the outer wall, 400 mm (one and a half bricks). In this case, the house turns out to be lighter, not requiring a massive foundation. The most important thing is not to focus on this lightness and the foundation is correct. Despite the fact that expanded clay blocks outperform bricks in weight, the laying of a lightweight foundation is completely excluded. Just a minus for walls of this thickness is thermal conductivity. Before you start facing the walls from the outside, you need to think about their insulation.

For external thermal insulation of the house, you can use both extruded polystyrene foam and mineral wool insulation. The latter are non-combustible material, but on the other hand, it is quite possible to plaster on polystyrene foam plates, using a plaster mesh, of course. Mineral wool of low density does not have such advantages, and is suitable only for finishing with siding and panel materials. When laying this type of mineral wool under the siding, care should be taken that it is not blown by the wind; for this, wind-moisture protective vapor permeable insulating membranes are used. Under such a membrane, mineral wool insulation will not be wet and will be reliably protected from wind blowing. There are also high-density mineral wool boards, which are quite suitable for applying plaster on them, but this will not differ much from the use of polystyrene foam, except perhaps incombustibility. Choose for yourself, at your discretion or at a price.

of plaster mixtures for plastering facades at the present time is quite large. Modern plaster compositions do not crack during operation and do not fly off the walls after a season. After plastering, it is recommended to paint the outer walls with special facade paints, which not only protect the walls from excessive wetting, but also do not prevent their vapor permeability. Before plastering, if it is required in the instructions for the use of the plaster mix, it is recommended to treat walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks with “concrete contact”, since these are, first of all, concrete blocks, which include expanded clay. Also, “concrete contact” is necessary when applying plaster inside the house.

Wall siding, or plastic panels for the facade - a less time-consuming task than plastering the surface, especially if you also take into account the use of insulation. It is quite possible to handle paneling or siding on your own, but it is not easy to plaster the entire area of the walls of the house, it is unlikely that a non-professional can handle it, although there would be a desire ...

Less common is another option for finishing - painting a wall of blocks without applying a plaster layer. If the walls are sufficient to not apply a layer of insulation, why not? This type of finish is quite aesthetic.

Wet facade on the walls of the KBB house

If you want to do wet facade on your house, then after preparing the walls (leveling, filling cracks, removing excess mortar), you can begin to insulate the walls of the house.

You can use basalt wool with a density of 45 or more and facade foam with a density of 25 or more. The wool is mounted on facade dowels, the foam is mounted on glue and additionally on facade dowels.

At the time of installation of the insulation, a facade fiberglass mesh is attached on top of it, which will reinforce the plaster layer. The mesh is fastened with the same facade dowels with "fungi" that hold the insulation on the wall.

After installing the fiberglass mesh, a base primer layer or two-component plaster is applied. Next, the plaster is primed with a penetrating primer. Modern facade systems allow you to keep the plaster layer in a semi-plastic state, which guarantees its long-term operation.

After priming, you can prepare for applying a decorative layer or for painting.

You can use the following decorative coating options:

Facade paint paintingDecorative bark beetle plasterPlaster coatDecorative smalted plaster

After applying the decorative layer, you can use fixing compositions and facade varnishes. They will protect the decorative layer from contamination and possible destruction.

In no case should you insulate a house made of expanded clay concrete from the inside. Expanded clay concrete is actually a vapor-tight material. Moisture from the premises will be locked between the insulation and the blocks INSIDE the premises. In this case, you will have all the adverse consequences - dampness in the room, mold under the insulation, and so on.

Application of concrete plaster.

Plastering walls with sand concrete can be done with a "purchased" mixture or prepared independently.

Solution preparation.

To prepare the solution, a concrete mixer or trough is used.

Plaster for outdoor work on concrete is prepared as follows:

Sand sifting. For plaster - it is important, since small pebbles, clay impurities and organic residues (leaves, roots) will interfere with the leveling of the plaster.
Mixing. First, I combine sand with cement: pour sand and cement into the container and mix them thoroughly.
Adding water done in small batches. It is very easy to pour it: at the last moment, when the solution is almost ready, every 200 grams of water can become fatal.

After adding each portion, the mixture is thoroughly mixed.

Definition of readiness. The solution must be homogeneous (in color, structure). Its consistency should be such that it easily slides off the trowel, spatula, leaving it almost clean.

The ratio of sand and cement depends on the brand of cement. For example, for the M500 - 5 buckets of sand. BUT, if the cement is not fresh, its concentration is increased by 1 position (1 hour Cement: 4 hours sand).

Plastering walls with homemade sand concrete is the simplest finish available to a non-professional builder.

Plastering of expanded clay concrete blocks - construction

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of the advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks is that they do not need serious plaster work for cladding. The outer wall can have a layer of plaster only 5 mm thick. Sometimes just grouting, clogging pores is enough. In this case, the inner layer of the substance will be only 5–10 mm. Yes, and plaster can be different.

Varieties

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks is gypsum. It is slightly lighter and better in terms of thermal protection, compared with a cement-sand mortar. However, before applying it, it is necessary to treat the surface with concrete contact. It increases adhesion, gives good adhesion of the material to the surface of expanded clay. In some cases, the wall processing step can be skipped if the appropriate solution is selected.

The cement-sand variety of plaster is similar in composition to wall plaster, which increases adhesion. Requires additional reinforcement with a fine-mesh galvanized mesh, which is attached separately to the wall.

In fact, both types of plaster provide the same good thermal insulation. They close micropores, prevent cracks and crevices from protruding. After plastering can be veneered outer surface ceramic tiles, cardboard or plastic panels. But first you need to figure out how exactly the plaster is applied to expanded clay concrete blocks.

Applying plaster

In this process, it is necessary to be guided by the material used. If plastering foam and aerated concrete often requires 3-4 stages, then walls made of expanded clay concrete need only two to achieve an ideal result. This is the filling of joints without the use of a reinforcing mesh, after which there is a final plastering with alignment. And if we move away from theory and touch on practice, then we often get by with one stage.

The plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks dries quickly enough, while it is almost not absorbed by the walls. It turns out that the solution, as it were, dries completely “outside”. As a result, there is no special need for the use of mesh to ensure a strong adhesion of the plaster to the expanded clay. A wall plastered in this way does not suffer from daily temperature fluctuations in winter, does not collapse and does not form cracks. In addition, thermal conductivity meets all standards.

Finishing work

In addition to plaster, expanded clay concrete blocks can be painted with any paint, if they are vapor-permeable. No pre-putty is required, which results in a beautiful surface relief of the blocks. However, the consumption of facade paint increases.

In addition, the relief surface of the blocks is well lined with decorative light and heavy tiles made of porcelain stoneware, etc. The main thing is to use good tile adhesive.

When facing, it is important to take into account such a factor as vapor permeability. The steam must escape to the outside, which requires the use of a vapor-permeable grout adhesive

In addition, the installation of plates takes place taking into account the ventilation air gap.

Let's briefly summarize

Claydite concrete block plaster and subsequent cladding protect the material from climatic influences, increase its performance properties and unique qualities:

Humidity regulation
Breathability
Excellent thermal inertia
Ease
Low thermal conductivity
Environmental friendliness

And do not forget that you need to choose expanded clay concrete blocks only from a reliable manufacturer, and when working with it, follow all technical construction standards.

According to the materials of the site: http://skb21.ru

Sheathing with plasterboard sheets

There is another way to finish the expanded clay concrete wall from the inside of the building - this is sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

Wall cladding with plasterboard

Anchors, self-tapping screws, etc. hold very well on expanded clay concrete blocks, therefore metal profiles attached directly to the wall. In the space between the wall and drywall, you can lay an additional layer of insulation - an additional plus of using drywall sheets.

Installation of drywall sheets is the same as for other types of walls, very simple and fast. After that, it remains only to putty the joints of drywall sheets and cover the entire surface with a thin layer of finishing putty.

Installation of drywall sheets is the easiest type of room decoration, but do not forget that this method hides space.

The three methods described above are the most suitable types of finishing for expanded clay concrete blocks. Which one is better for you, decide for yourself. How to cook plaster mortars and apply them to the surface, you can also find out on our website. Have a good repair!

The video below will show you how to plaster block walls.

Warming

When working on the facade, the following must be taken into account:

practice shows that one of the best options for exterior decoration is the laying of a heat-insulating expanded clay concrete block, which compensates for heat losses up to 75%; mineral wool or polystyrene foam / polystyrene foam acts as an additional insulation; foam plastic is fixed on a cleaned base with an adhesive composition, additionally fastened with dowels. All seams are treated with mounting foam; mineral wool requires stripping, gluing and reinforcing wall structures to increase structural strength; the use of penoizol will achieve sound and waterproofing and reduce thermal conductivity.

Arrangement of plaster under a fur coat

Work can be carried out without insulation or on this layer. The method, known as “fur coat” facade finishing, is carried out by spraying or spraying a solution. This method is less time consuming than working with other materials.

To work with the solution, special devices have been created. The device can be the simplest, with manual control, or more technologically advanced, such as an air gun. At the construction site, the required mobility of the mixture is selected and proceed to finishing.

When choosing materials, you should initially evaluate the amount of work. Finishing cost may be too high

Wall decoration from expanded clay concrete blocks

Exterior decoration of walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks is made of facing ceramic or clinker bricks, crushed stone or plastic facade systems.

Insulation is most often located on the outside of the building. Firstly, the area of the internal rooms does not decrease, and secondly, condensation will not form between the wall surface and the thermal insulation layer, the accumulation of which over time can lead to partial destruction of expanded clay concrete blocks.

Various materials are used as a heater when decorating a house from expanded clay concrete blocks:

Styrofoam. The most common and technologically advanced material for insulation;
mineral wool based on basalt fiber. This insulation has high thermal insulation performance, does not crumble and does not lose shape;
fiberglass. It has a relatively low cost.

For interior decoration, the same rules apply as for other building materials. Cement-sand or gypsum plaster is used. Facing with plasterboard, clapboard, plastic panels is possible - guide bars or a metal profile hold well on expanded clay concrete masonry.

Laying ceramic tiles or natural stone is carried out directly on the wall of the house without additional preparation. In this case, a special tile adhesive or cement-sand mortar is used.

Plaster of expanded clay concrete blocks

The plaster of claydite-concrete blocks from a cement-sand mixture binds well with the masonry - the mixture and the material of the walls are based on a cement binder. The use of a plaster mesh is desirable, but not necessary, it can only be used to strengthen the lintels and armored belt. For cement plaster walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks, a flat galvanized mesh, which is attached to self-tapping screws, is suitable. A galvanized perforated suspension, cut into plates with holes, is suitable as washers. Such washers practically do not add thickness to the plaster layer.

This is especially important if the surface is sufficiently even and the minimum thickness of the plaster layer is planned.

The addition of special plasticizers to the solution greatly facilitates the work.

Plaster for expanded clay concrete blocks based on gypsum mixtures is lighter and warmer, due to its lower density. To improve adhesion, the walls of houses are treated with a special compound. There is gypsum mixes, in which concrete contact components have already been added. When working with them, pre-treatment of the surface is not required. Reinforcement, if necessary, is carried out using a polymer mesh. It is much easier to work with it than with metal.

Facing the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

If the exterior cladding of the house is taken into account in the project, then at the stage of building walls, a special mesh of metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm and a cell width of 50 mm is laid. It is laid through two (maximum three) rows of blocks. The thickness of this mesh is not large, so it will not affect the thermal conductivity. The outer wall of facing bricks is connected to the inner wall along the entire perimeter of the building without interruption. Experts recommend simultaneously erecting both walls - the base and the finish, then the outlets of the laid mesh will definitely not rust.

Another option for fixing the cladding of a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks is with the help of flexible plastic clamps. In this case, it is convenient to make a fixed ventilation gap between the thermal insulation layer and the outer wall. The latch is a round rod with a dowel sleeve at one end and an anchor at the other. Holes are drilled in the bearing wall with a vertical pitch of 50-60 cm and a horizontal one of 40-50 cm, into which dowels are hammered. Thermal insulation material strung on dowels and secured with plastic clips. The protruding ends of the rods with a sand anchor are walled up in the masonry joints of the facing material.

If external insulation is not planned, then the facing wall can be attached to the carrier using clamps - galvanized steel strips 30-40 mm wide, bent in the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are nailed horizontally in increments of 50-60 cm. The free end is inserted into the seams of the outer masonry.

How warm and durable a house made of expanded clay concrete blocks will be depends not only on the project, the building materials used, but also on the professionalism of the workers, the quality of the work performed. The company "Proekt" provides construction services in Moscow and the Moscow region. Experienced professionals perform indoor and outdoor construction work at affordable prices.

External coating of the house of expanded clay concrete blocks

Insulation of expanded clay concrete walls with fiberglass.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, in terms of which the outer covering of the walls is provided, during their construction is fixed with a special mesh resembling a metal wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm. It is placed in a certain interval, through 2 rows of blocks. The grid has a slight thickness, so the heat conduction coefficient will remain at the same level.

The outer wall, finished with facing bricks, is connected to internal partition along the perimeter of the building. Many experienced craftsmen at one time build 2 walls at once, one of which is the base, and the other is the finishing option. The laid mesh will not corrode.

A house made of expanded clay concrete blocks, as options for fixing the lining of the coating, may have elastic plastic retainers. A ventilation opening is constructed here, located in the space between the outer base and the layer to retain heat. A rod with a dowel sleeve and an anchor acts as a latch.

Recesses are made on the main wall at a distance of 50-60 cm vertically and 40-50 cm horizontally. Dowels are hammered into them. The base, which serves as a heat insulator, is mounted on dowels and snapped into place with plastic clips.

The construction of expanded clay concrete blocks, not insulated with material, involves the connection with the supporting structure with clamps, that is, strips of steel base, taking the shape of the letter "G". Clamps are fixed at a distance of 50-60 mm.

The high performance of facing buildings from expanded clay concrete blocks is determined by the nature of the building materials used and the experience of the craftsmen.

Based on site materials: http://ostroymaterialah.ru

Question: Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen! Please tell us how best to decorate the outside of a house of expanded clay concrete blocks (KBB), what kind of facade would be appropriate here, what materials can be used? Artur Shakarin, Novosibirsk

The answer is Semyon Fiskunov, CJSC Stroy-Alliance, Togliatti.

Answer: Hello Arthur! I will try to answer your question in detail. Moreover, KBB is a fairly popular material, many owners build their houses from expanded clay concrete blocks.

In the very first place, I would like to ask you a counter question - how thick did you erect the walls of expanded clay concrete? The question is by no means idle.

It depends on your answer whether you will have to insulate your walls from KBB, or you can immediately deal with the finishing exterior trim and applying a decorative layer.

The main nuances when finishing expanded clay concrete walls

Let's digress a little from the topic, and talk about the material itself. The block, as we already figured out above, consists of concrete and expanded clay. It has good vapor permeability, low thermal conductivity, and is relatively light. However, its surface is far from ideally even - there may be various pores, shells, and protrusions. At the same time, it perfectly absorbs water from the external environment (for example, during rain, or ground). Yes, and its geometric dimensions, as a rule, are characterized by significant deviations - up to several centimeters. It goes without saying that a wall built using these blocks will not be distinguished by surface cleanliness and evenness. Hence the requirement for the thickness of the layer with which the plaster allows you to work.

Of course, thin-layer mixtures can also be used, but, as practice shows, this will be a more laborious, lengthy and expensive process. In this case, it will be necessary to apply several layers, and each must gain a certain strength - and this is time. In addition, it is necessary to provide embedded elements necessary for their connection, or use a special plaster mesh. Alternatively, the first layer can be made in the form of separate “cakes” applied with a trowel or plaster trowel, which is then well primed after hardening, and after that the surface is finally leveled. As you can see, the process is quite tedious.

plaster cost.

The price of plaster includes the amount of materials used (sand, concrete). Hired workers indicate only the cost of their work per m2, without taking into account the cost of purchasing building materials.

The method of calculating the required amount of materials depends on the curvature of the walls:

Smooth walls. The plaster has a layer of approx. 2cm. It is enough to multiply 0.02 m (2 cm) by the "square" of the surface to be plastered to get the volume of the required mixture in cubic meters.

The brand of cement also matters: for example, M-500 requires 5 buckets of sand. So, 1/6th of the volume is cement. Accordingly, the resulting value must be divided by 6 to find out how much cement is needed and calculate its cost.

By multiplying this number by 5, you can find out the required amount of sand.

Curved walls. The consumption of the solution increases significantly if the walls are curved. They can be curved, concave, or oblique.

It is impossible to reliably accurately calculate the need for a solution with a strong curvature of the walls. It's easier to do this: calculate the volume of plaster in one layer (as if the walls were even), and then add to them the approximate volume of areas that require thicker plastering.

You can buy the components of the mixture in a deliberately smaller volume in order to subsequently acquire the missing quantity (when there are not many non-plastered surfaces, it will definitely become easier to calculate). This will help to avoid buying extra material.

Plastering workers charge per sq.m. But this does not apply to special situations. For example, and corners are charged per linear, and not per square meter. This is due to the special complexity of the work.

The way to save money can be as follows: you can plaster the walls yourself, and order professionals to perform more accurate and meticulous work.

Types of plaster

Claydite-concrete walls can be plastered with both cement-based and gypsum-based compositions.

Professional spray plastering of expanded clay concrete wall

Advantages of cement-sand plaster:

the composition includes cement - a material that is present in the composition of the blocks themselves, which contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the wall surface;
enhances the strength of the masonry;
suitable for interior and exterior decoration;
the possibility of cooking with your own hands.

Advantages of gypsum plaster:

not inferior in strength to cement-sand plaster;
creates a smoother surface;
has better thermal insulation properties compared to cement-sand mortar.

Plaster with cement-sand mortar

Plastering rooms with high humidity: kitchens, bathrooms, etc., as well as making the cladding outside the building better with a cement-sand mortar.

Cement-sand mortar

An expanded clay wall does not require a thick layer of plaster, it is necessary to level the surface, hide the seams of the masonry, and cement-sand plaster outside the building improves the waterproof qualities of the wall, protects the masonry from temperature extremes, and creates a pleasant decorative appearance of the facade of the building.

It is possible to plaster expanded clay with a cement-sand composition without the use of a reinforcing fine-mesh mesh, since usually the plaster layer is no more than 1 centimeter. If there are funds, it is better to use it to increase the strength of the coating; it is very easily attached to expanded clay with dowel-nails with a wide hat, but this is not necessary.

Plastering expanded clay is enough in 2 thin layers, followed by grouting the dried mortar.

Do not forget to clean the surface from dust, debris and protruding masonry mortar before starting work. The solution must be chipped off with a chisel.

Unlike gas silicate blocks, foam blocks, expanded clay concrete blocks do not strongly absorb moisture from the solution, so they can be plastered immediately, without first passing over the surface with a primer. It is enough to moisten the wall with water during the application of the cement-sand mortar.

Gypsum-based plaster

Gypsum plaster has a number of its advantages, so builders use it as often as cement-sand mortar.

Ready-made universal gypsum mixture

Gypsum plaster reduces the thermal conductivity of the building, it is much more plastic and easier to work with. Gypsum plaster coating is smoother, it can be applied immediately decorative trim, perfect for wallpaper, painting. Thanks to modern technologies, compounds are added to gypsum plaster that increase its strength, so heavy facing materials can be glued to gypsum, just like cement-sand mortar. Here, the main thing is to use a gypsum mixture designed specifically for heavy materials.

When plastering expanded clay concrete blocks with a gypsum-based composition, it is imperative to pre-treat the wall surface with agents that improve adhesion between it and the blocks. Such compositions are called "betonokontakt".

For wet rooms, use special gypsum mixes, marked accordingly on the package.

Why you need to plaster the walls of the house from expanded clay concrete

As mentioned above, plastering the walls of a residential building erected from expanded clay concrete is recommended in most cases. What for? Let's think logically. The building block discussed in this article is essentially expanded clay and a cement binder that allows it to maintain a given shape. At the same time, a huge mass of pores is formed in it, through which air circulates quite freely. As a result, folded unplastered walls made of such material will simply be blown through, which will make the dwelling cold and uncomfortable.

Plastering only from the inside will not bring much, reducing the level of heat loss, since cold air will also freely penetrate the wall from the street, up to the inner layers, take heat, and also exit unhindered. This, despite the fact that drafts in this case should not be.

If a decision is made to finish a claydite-concrete house, it must be plastered, both inside and outside. High-quality external and internal plaster will significantly increase the service life of the walls, and will allow you to fully use the heat-insulating properties of the material - you get something like a "thermos" that perfectly retains heat.

Basic requirements for plastering on expanded clay concrete blocks

The simplest and most economical solution for finishing is plastering walls from expanded clay blocks. Wall plaster can be independent option finishes.

It is also recommended for further finishing with decorative tiles or stone. The application of the plaster composition is necessary to prepare the base of the walls for painting or wallpapering. As an option - finishing with decorative plaster.

Decorative facade plaster

The main requirements for plastering materials for the considered blocks:

High strength of the resulting coating.
Creation of moisture resistant protection.
Good adhesion to expanded clay concrete.
Sufficient plasticity of the material.

Products made of lightweight concrete have low resistance to mechanical damage front surface. The porous structure of the material easily absorbs water, which, accumulating in the pores, eventually leads to the destruction of the material. Therefore, expanded clay blocks require good protection of their surface from moisture and mechanical stress.

Reliable fixation of the plaster layer on the wall is achieved by good mutual adhesion of materials. To avoid cracking of the plaster due to shrinkage of the masonry, sufficient plasticity of the materials used is required.

Do-it-yourself bath from expanded clay concrete blocks

Even in not so ancient times, baths were built almost exclusively from timber and sometimes from brick, because these materials were considered optimal in terms of heat retention and resistance to moisture. In addition, the tree was quite accessible to any builder. But accessibility does not mean durability - constant moisture relatively quickly began to disable such structures.

Preparation for construction
Foundation device
Construction of a bath
Finishing and insulation

The search for a worthy alternative continued for many years, but only today materials have appeared that can fully replace the wood in the walls of the bath.

Advantages of expanded clay concrete blocks

One of these materials are blocks of expanded clay concrete. They are made from several different components using vibrocompression. Expanded clay, which is foamed and fired clay, sand and cement, are mixed and compacted using high pressure vibration loads. The result is a building material characterized by lightness and high strength.

The main advantages that distinguish expanded clay concrete blocks from other building materials are:

absolute non-toxicity of expanded clay concrete blocks, which are among the most environmentally friendly materials;
weak absorption of moisture by blocks, as a result, they are not subject to the destructive effects of steam and water, unlike wood;
excellent thermal insulation properties, due to which heat is well preserved inside the bathhouse without large-scale insulation work;
the relative lightness of the wall blocks (8 kg), which allows you to build a bathhouse on your own, without resorting to outside help.

Preparation for construction

Like the work on the construction of any building, the construction of a bath from expanded clay blocks begins with the creation of a project and the acquisition necessary materials in the right amount.

For construction you will need:

expanded clay concrete blocks;
brick;
material for waterproofing;
cement;
wooden slats;
lining;
fixing material;
roofing material.

Foundation device

Usually, two types of foundation are used for a bath: strip or columnar. Tape is a continuous strip of concrete or brick, outlining the contour of the building being erected. And at the columnar support, separate pillars serve. Walls made of expanded clay concrete blocks will not create a heavy load on the base, so a columnar foundation is better for a bath.

Wall cladding options

Reduced heat transfer resistance of various enclosing structures.

Natural stone or ceramic tiles are determined directly on the wall of expanded clay concrete blocks, there is no need for preparatory work. For better fixing of these materials, tile glue or a mixture of cement and sand is taken.

As indicated earlier, the buildings of the sample under consideration are not left bare, unprotected from the external influences of nature. Of course, if we are not talking about high-quality facing bricks

Despite the fact that buildings made of expanded clay blocks are lightweight, it is very important to correctly calculate the foundation.

Therefore, the small weight of such materials does not give grounds for the construction of a lightweight version of the foundation. The disadvantage of such overlaps will be their low thermal conductivity. Before facing external walls care must be taken to carry out warming measures.

So, mineral wool does not burn, a plaster layer can be applied to it, using a special mesh for this.

This cannot be said about mineral wool. It is designed to decorate the building with siding and other materials in the form of panels. Mineral wool, laid under the siding, must be protected from the wind.

For such purposes, membranes are used that have properties to protect against wind and moisture. In this case, the insulation will be dry and provide reliable protection from rain and wind. There are also such heaters based on mineral wool with a special durable layer on which plaster can be applied.

It is worth noting that the external decoration of the walls of the house with plastic panels or siding will not be such a difficult undertaking, unlike finishing the surface with plaster. If plastering the base of the house is only possible for an experienced craftsman, then here you can do all the work yourself. Sometimes a method of painting walls is used without first plastering the surface, but it is used very rarely.

Scheme of the device of a heat block with expanded clay concrete.

One of the frequently used options for finishing the outer shells of the house will be ceramic, clinker and brick cladding.

The least expensive option would be surface treatment with a layer of cement-sand plaster. The last finishing option, together with facade paints, helps to form original surfaces and unusual appearance. Plaster is in the best possible contact with expanded clay concrete, it is actively used for bases that are constantly changing under the influence of external temperatures and are periodically damaged. The facade lined with natural stone looks very beautiful and original.

He is not afraid of frost, while it looks monolithic, chic and unusual. This material can be completely replaced with artificial stone. It is no worse than the natural version, and it is much cheaper.

As a finishing option, the outer shells of the house will be well complemented by thermal panels made of polyurethane and clinker tiles. This method of finishing can be called the least expensive.

Panels of such a plan are lightweight, they are often used with a strip base. They are strong, environmentally friendly, create a stable microclimate in the room, regardless of the season. Installation work they are extremely simple, even a non-professional can do them.

Ventilated facades skillfully hide possible flaws in wall coverings. In the space between the wall and the facing layer, there is a constant movement of air, as a result of which the base is not subjected to destructive influence.

Siding can be attributed to an inexpensive option for decorating exterior walls. However, such panels are quite fragile and can break, which is not very well reflected on the wall of expanded clay concrete. Houses made of this material can stand for a century, but here it is important to choose the right finishing option so that the base is securely completed.

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Advantages of aerated concrete blocks

Rules for finishing the surface of aerated concrete

Which type of plaster to choose

Materials for a vapor-permeable layer of wall cladding

Creating a vapor barrier lining with your own hands

What tools will be required

The technology of applying plaster on aerated concrete

Compositions for plastering aerated concrete

Mineral mixtures

Polymer blends

Technology for finishing aerated concrete with plaster

Primer

Reinforcement

Plaster

Conclusion

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How to plaster gas blocks

Internal plastering of cellular concrete walls

Plastering of external walls made of aerated concrete

Features of performing plastering work on aerated concrete

Plaster materials

Consumption of materials

Tools to get the job done

Preparing walls for plaster

Instructions for applying plaster on aerated concrete walls

The difference in the performance of external plaster walls

Technological break between the end of masonry and the start of plastering

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