Technology of plastering window slopes. External slopes of plaster

29.08.2019

Plastering window slopes originates from the time when windows in their modern appearance became familiar to mankind. The technology of this type of work is so elementary that even an unprepared beginner can easily cope with it. Moreover, there are now much more plastic windows than wooden ones, and the plastering of slopes on such windows is even easier.

Selection of tools

How to plaster slopes and what tools to use for this, each master considers differently.

For indoor work, do not use a level that is too large or too small, a meter is best. Also stock up on sealant and a knife.

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, check whether all the gaps are filled with foam, you may need to eliminate imperfections on the part of the installers.

If you decide to do the plastering of slopes with a cement solution, purchase a grater and a trowel, and for work with Rotband you will need different size trowels, wide spatula and sponge grater.

Preparatory work

High-quality plastering of slopes with your own hands is impossible without following the following preparatory procedures:

remove excess mounting foam with a knife;
clean the surfaces with a brush with metal bristles;
remove dirt and construction debris;
start priming work (inside a dry room, you can use a liquid cement mortar or antibacterial substances);
around the entire perimeter of the window frame to the base of the wall, it is necessary to apply a sealant that will increase waterproofing (for such work, substances are used that include silicone, with its help the windows will not sweat, it is easy and comfortable to work with, it is inexpensive and brings a lot of useful things) .

What solutions are used for plaster slopes?

It is necessary to plaster the slopes both indoors and outdoors. For work inside the room, you can use a combination of sand and alabaster in a ratio of 1: 2. A solution based on cement and sand is kneaded 1: 3, and a mixture of cement, alabaster and sand - 1: 1: 2.

Plastering slopes with your own hands becomes easier to perform thanks to the use of the Rotband dry mix. The cost of such material, of course, is not small, but it lays down evenly and has warming and antibacterial properties.

For finishing slopes outside, only cement mortars can be used: they are not afraid of changes in air temperatures, different humidity and chemicals. Most importantly, do not forget to mix into this mixture liquid glass and a plasticizer.

The process of plastering slopes

Before proceeding with the installation of beacons, calculate at what slope the surface will be installed. Experienced Builders this indicator is called the “angle of dawn”, and it is set using a goniometer. Do not be too self-confident in your eye, the result of installing the surface “by eye” will not be very pleasant and will require rework.

Now you can start installing beacons. From the outside, you can use a flat plank made of wood or a metal profile, and near the frame you can not do without an aluminum corner. The external beacon, after completion of all work, can be removed, and the internal ones will be covered plaster mortar.

The outer beacon is fixed on the surface with nails or self-tapping screws, and the inner beacon is planted on alabaster or cement until it dries completely.

If you need to cover an area with a thick layer of mortar, give each one time to set. The maximum allowable density of pouring mortar from cement and sand should not exceed 2 cm, with gypsum mortar - 5 cm.

If you decide to plaster newly installed plastic windows and noticed a protective film on them, do not rush to remove it until the slopes are ready. Such work is usually very dusty, and the film will help protect the frame from damage and dirt.

But, if you still removed the protection, stick masking tape or polyethylene on the window.

Do not rush to apply one layer of mass to the second, give each of them time to dry - this will allow you to protect the walls from cracking.

The density of the extreme tier should cover the beacons. After throwing the mortar, all excess mass can be removed with a spatula or plaster corner. As a result of such actions, you can get a flat and smooth surface.

At the next stage, you can start grouting the slopes sandpaper and making them smooth.

After that, you need to remove the corners. To do this, you will need to remove all external beacons and use a grater and trowel. The trowel should be leaned against one surface, and the grater should continue to apply the mixture and level the corner. After that, the same work is carried out on the other side.

The next step is painting. For this it is better to buy acrylic paint water based. If your apartment is dry and warm, you can not treat the slope before painting with a primer. But, sometimes (especially in rooms with high humidity), it is still worth covering the surface with an antibacterial primer solution.

Pay special attention to the fact that plastic can be exposed to the sun and expand. So that because of this the frame does not crack and deformation does not occur, use this advice: when you finally level the plaster, cut a notch 3-5 mm deep with a metal spatula, and then fill it with a colored sealant (to match the lining) based on silicone. Due to its elasticity, silicone will protect the structure from possible deformation.

In conclusion, I would like to say that it is quite possible to plaster the slopes on your own, having a certain amount of knowledge. But, if you have never held construction tools in your hands, let experienced and knowledgeable people solve the problem “how to plaster slopes”.

The approximate cost of plastering slopes is given in the table.

Name cost element	Unit.	Base price, rub.)
Resource consumption rate
Labor costs of builders	pers.h	9,52	383,06		431,29
Middle class builders	pers.h	9,75	3,4		3,6
Construction lifts	mash.h	24,64	1,16
Finishing cement-lime mortar	m 3	597,93	4,4
Water	m 3	3,6	0,35
Construction garbage	t	8,1
Cost indicators
Wages for workers	rub.	3646,73		4205,08
Machine operation	rub.	28,58
Material resources	rub.	2632,15
Total direct costs	rub.	6307,46		6865,81

After replacing window frames, many faced the problem of finding a responsible craftsman to perform slope plastering. Most of the workers if u are willing to perform this work, then most often they do it poorly, while demanding an unreasonably high fee. You should be aware that in case of improper finishing, windows lose their heat and sound insulation properties. Moreover, the appearance of harmful fungal organisms that can adversely affect human health is guaranteed. You can do the plastering of slopes with your own hands, how to do it, we will tell in the article.

General requirements

Slopes on the windows should not only have a beautiful appearance, but also meet a number of requirements

Slope - a section of the wall (according to its thickness), which is adjacent to the window frame. A quality slope has the following characteristics:

good moisture and vapor impermeability of the surface, which will make it possible to ensure the high quality of the assembly seam, subject to the requirements of GOST;
increased resistance to delamination during wet cleaning or cleaning;
resistance to mechanical and external influences (temperature difference, sunlight);
high thermal insulation properties.

Slopes on windows can be oblique and straight, narrow and wide, external and internal.

Preparatory stage

Before starting work on the production of plaster slopes, it is worth paying due attention to the preparatory stage.

If you have a “new building”, then the slopes are made only after the final plastering of the remaining walls. In this case, you should wait a few days until the plaster on the walls dries.

The place under the slopes must be well prepared, cleaned of dirt, dust and any fatty deposits. Mortar protruding from brickwork or concrete sagging should be removed.

Protruding remains of mounting foam must be removed

To improve the adhesion of the mortar to the wall, the brickwork must be embroidered in advance to a depth of at least 10 mm. To improve thermal insulation, it is necessary to caulk or blow out with foam (which is more convenient and faster) the gaps between the window frame and the wall.

If you have wooden window frames installed, then you need to lay a special insulating material that will protect the wood from absorbing moisture and subsequent decay.

In the case of metal-plastic windows, it is recommended, after applying the solution and drying it, to make a small notch up to 5 mm wide between the slope and the frame. Then fill it with silicone sealant. This notch will serve as a compensation for the thermal expansion of the frame and a guarantee of the absence of cracks on the surface of the window slopes.

Window slope plastering

To facilitate the cleaning of dirt after the work done, the window frames, glass and the area around the window should be tightened with a protective cellophane film, which can simply be thrown away at the end of the work. If the edge of the slope is damaged during the dismantling of old window frames, it is necessary to install an ordinary corner. Which one to choose, plastic or metal, you decide for yourself.

Tools and materials

To make plaster slopes with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:

roulette;
pencil;
putty knife;
Master OK;
containers for water and mixing of the solution;
pick;
Malka (by the way, you can make it yourself);

With the help of a bevel, you can make the same angle of inclination on all slopes

deep penetration primer (you can do it yourself by mixing PVA glue with water in a ratio of 1: 2);
cement (or ready-made plaster mixture);

Preference is given to ready-made formulations in bags.

The use of ready-made mixtures will greatly facilitate the work and allow you to get a high-quality solution.

rail for level output;
building level (you can use a plumb line);
brush or roller;
water-based paint;
putty (finish);
sandpaper (fine grit) or paint mesh.

Do-it-yourself technology

We find the zero level and set beacons for plaster around the entire perimeter

Before starting all work, it is necessary to prepare the surface for applying the solution. After that, we find the zero level and set beacons for plaster around the entire perimeter of the future slopes of the window frame. The installation of wooden slats will facilitate the work.

Reiki can be fixed on an ordinary solution. In this case, it is necessary to control the level both horizontally and vertically.

We prepare the solution for slopes in accordance with the instructions placed on the package. It must be thoroughly mixed, to achieve uniformity in all layers. After setting all the landmarks, they begin to treat the slope surfaces with a primer (or a mixture with PVA).

Finishing is best repeated several times with short breaks.

We proceed to surface treatment with a primer. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room

After preparing the solution, take a spatula and throw the first layer of the solution. If you need to make plaster slopes high, then the mortar should be applied in layers at short intervals, during which the layer dries out a little. We begin to apply the solution from the bottom up, focusing on beacons or wooden slats. “Forcing out” the required height, it is important to apply the mortar correctly: first vertically, and then horizontally. When the desired level is reached, the last movements of the spatula should be carried out from the window towards the room.

When plastering slopes on top of the window opening, it is recommended to add gypsum or alabaster during the manufacture of the solution. This is necessary to speed up drying.

The solution, especially in the upper part of the slopes, is best applied in small portions.

Many recommend for high-quality plaster of the upper slope to increase the number of layers and at the same time reduce the amount of mortar applied on the spatula. Malka is useful to you in the manufacture of plaster slopes with an angle, if this angle should be the same on all surfaces. Using this tool is simple: install one end on the window frame, and the other on a wooden rail, which is fixed on the edge of the slope.

It is necessary to remove excess small to create the correct angle only after the solution has set.

All irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper.

After that, a layer of finishing putty is applied. All irregularities are removed with fine-grained sandpaper or a paint grid. Ready dried slopes cover water-based paint in several layers with drying between approaches.

Plaster door slopes pretty important. After all, this is not a simple flat plane, there is also an angle, and it can be different.

Today we will consider how to plaster door slopes and, accordingly, adjacent corners. You can see some moments of the work in the video in this article and the photo. After that, it will be possible to do everything with your own hands.

There is a wide choice of materials for finishing slopes. This includes drywall, wood and plastic panels. However, simple plastering is still in demand.

Advantages

Flaws

The cheapness of materials, their high strength and the ability to do the work yourself, using the advice of specialists. There are no seams.
Plastering can be done inside and out.
Withstands temperature fluctuations. Long service life.
You can always do the work yourself and the final price will not be high.

Low thermal insulation. The possibility of condensation and the appearance of mold is not excluded. Gradually, the mortar can separate from the frames, which leads to the appearance of cracks. Work takes a long time compared to other types of finishing. A lot of litter and dirt during the work. However, the shortcomings can be significantly reduced if the plastering work is done in a quality manner, in compliance with all the rules.

Choosing the right tool is important

First of all, it is decided how to plaster the slopes front door. After all, when starting any business, you must first take care of the tool (see Tool for wall plastering: what you need for work). Its choice always depends on the materials used.

When plastering slopes, we need:

Level preferably with two ampoules
aluminum rule
Goniometer
Yardstick
Marking pencil
5 cm spatula
mason's trowel
pickaxe hammer
Vessel for preparation of working solution
Container for water

When choosing a tool, you will need to consider the following:

It is inconvenient to work with a short level, and a long one simply will not fit between the cornice and the lintel. The best option would be a meter level. For minor work, you will also need a special sealant gun and a construction knife. And for sealing joints and cracks - a balloon with polyurethane foam.
When using cement mortar, additionally prepare a trowel and graters. And for working with plaster - a grater with a sponge base, a spatula 45 cm wide and a trowel for polishing large and small sizes.

Pick up work shoes and clothes according to size, they should be comfortable and not hinder movement. You can use medical gloves to protect your hands.

Attention: Do not forget about the safety of the work being carried out. Remember that a stepladder or stool is not suitable for this purpose. Do not be lazy and make a small construction goat.

Work procedure

Plastering door slopes is done in a certain order. This work is time-tested and should be done in this sequence. The instruction looks like this.

Surface preparation

Before proceeding with plastering, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, the quality and service life of the finish will depend on this. After all, the door slopes of the plaster are also subjected to vibration when the door is closed, so the strength indicator is quite important.

It is advisable to insert the box before plastering. This will strengthen the structure in the future and eliminate the need to fill the gaps between it and the slopes.

Attention: It is important to protect it from damage and contamination with the solution. You can cover with unnecessary drywall scraps or thick paper.

When installing, be sure to check the horizontal position, we do this with a level;
We check verticality with a plumb line;
Adjustment is done with wooden wedges.

Now you need to evaluate the surfaces: the unevenness of the walls and the verticality of the slopes. If you need to level the walls a large number of solution, it is advisable to use a mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 mm. The mesh is nailed to the wall. Also note that this process will require more time and solution. If there is no need for additional alignment, then simply follow the following steps in sequence:
For a strong adhesion of the mortar to the surface, it must be treated from dust, dirt, old paint (see How to remove paint from walls: the secrets of the masters) and plaster.
Tighten the door block with a film, using masking tape for this. Take care of the protection of fittings and heating batteries. They can also be wrapped in paper.
For high-quality application of plaster, the surface must be coated with a primer (see Primer walls and all on this issue). Its type is selected based on the material of the window opening.
The remains of the foam after installing the unit must be cut with a knife and a vapor barrier should be carried out. To do this, the foam is covered with a cold-resistant silicone sealant or a vapor barrier film.

Attention: It is important to apply the sealant on a dry surface, immediately removing the excess. If this is not done, later the foam will lose its thermal insulation properties and, as a result, windows will fog up and drafts will appear.

A device for creating the same angle when plastering slopes was called a small one. In fact, this is a bar with a hole, usually made of thick plywood, where a thin rail is inserted when assembled - the second part of the device.

One part (a bar with a hole) moves along the slope, and the second part moves along the given beacon.
To prevent chipping, plywood can be slightly rounded with a file during work. Thanks to this device, you will get absolutely smooth slopes.

Professionals use aluminum bars in their work. Without it, it is difficult to achieve the same slope angle.

What you need to know

When choosing a solution, consider the humidity of the room. With increased it is better to use cement mortar, you need to work with it at positive temperatures (+5 ° C will be enough). Work with gypsum or lime-gypsum at t +10 °C.

Bring the solution, following the instructions, in sufficient volume. It can be calculated based on the area of the treated surface and the thickness of the applied layer.

So:

First, set the position of the slope angle.
We set the rule and mark the level with a pencil.
With force we press the template to the window bar and slowly smooth the working mixture from the slope until a flat surface and a neat corner are obtained.
Lightly remove the rule by moving it around the corner.
Examine the surface carefully. If there are flaws, mix another portion of the solution and repeat the operation.
After some time, take the ironing board and remove the unnecessary. Then we make a perpendicular alignment as a rule.
We remove small roughness with a grater. If the plaster is gypsum, soak it with a foam rubber sponge. We rub in a circular motion, slightly pressing the grater. After a few minutes, smooth the plaster with a spatula with a wide canvas.
If you plan to trim the slopes with tiles, then minor defects are not removed.

We plaster the slopes of the front door and at the same time do not forget that there should be no gaps and cavities. After all, there are gaps of various sizes between the wall and the inserted structure. In old houses, they exceed 5 cm. In this case, the slopes are insulated before plastering.

These gaps are filled with heat-insulating material, which is moistened with gypsum mortar and compacted along the entire length. You need to leave room for the grout. If the measurements and installation are carried out correctly, then there are practically no gaps. In this case, you can blow them out with mounting foam.
Plastic windows, and in particular PVC profiles, tend to expand under the influence of sunlight. Therefore, as soon as the slope is plastered, take a spatula and make a recess up to 5 mm wide between the frame and the slope, then fill it with silicone-based sealant. This will prevent the appearance of cracks at the junction of the slope and the window.

By plastering the surface of the slopes with high quality, you will not only save heat in the room, but also improve the appearance.

Finishing of internal and external corners

Plaster door slopes often need to be done together with the corner. After all, these two planes are combined. The corner can be external and internal. Their finishes are different and let's look at each of them.

Interior corner finishing

Can be done in two ways:

If the second part of the slope is plastered.
When plastering two adjacent raw surfaces

But the procedure is the same in both cases.

A primer is applied from the corner to the wall, and then the grout is made by the rule. Next, we make out the corner and scrape its surface with a mason's grater with nails.
We do it this way: we put the edge of the grater to the mated surface at an inclination of 30-40 ° C and bringing it to the corner, we alternately move up and down. With the flat side, lay the tool on a recently worn surface, and press the rib to the mated one.
Pressing firmly, with rectilinear movements, we release it from the adhering solution. After the primer has hardened, smooth the surface cleanly with a coat.
Further, with a grater made of wood or polystyrene with a secondary thin layer, we level the notches and tubercles.
Finishing the corner, the grater is taken so that its lower edge is on the seized side, and the corner touches the freshly processed one.

In the second option, the work is performed according to the same algorithm.

Finishing the outer corners

It still differs from internal ones, but neat corners can also be obtained using two methods.

So:

Metal corners can be easily made right size. The side parts are cut with special scissors for metal, and the center with a saw. A fixed rail can be used as a beacon when leveling the applied primer. After the mixture has set, it is trimmed with a steel spatula.
Cover is applied in the usual way, and its thickness will depend on the angular profile.

In conclusion, the corner is ground with a fine-grained sandpaper.

What is the difference in finishing door slopes and errors

The outer corners of the door slopes are glued with a special plate that prevents them from chipping. Then they are grouted.

To prevent cracks from forming at the junctions of the door frame with the wall, they are filled with acrylic or similar sealant that can be painted. A groove is drawn at the junction. It is filled with a primer using masking tape and a gun. Then it is leveled with a rubber spatula. Remove the tape when finished.
Some begin plastering work without assessing the condition of the surface and the type of material. As a result, due to the incompatibility of materials, we will get cracks or complete destruction of the plaster layer. As a result, there is a need for repair.
When the top coat is applied, skipping the primer process. After complete drying, the outlines of the bricks will be visible.
When applying a plaster coating on an unprepared concrete surface. In the same way, due to the incompatibility of these materials, we will get the destruction of the plaster. In such cases, it is suggested to use a special coating with polymeric substances or ready-made gypsum-based putty, with additives already included in its composition.
Long break after plastering part of the surface. Correctly, when the plaster adheres equally throughout the area.
Plastering of concrete, the moisture content of which exceeds 4%.
An important tip for better corner plastering on slopes. Joints of doors and windows with plaster should be made with expansion joints. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the formation of cracks.
If the outer corner is often touched, an aluminum or steel profile. Otherwise, as a result of operation, it is likely to be damaged.
Using a grinder when cutting galvanized metal profiles. In this case, the zinc layer is destroyed, which leads to corrosion and the appearance of rust spots on the facing surface. Therefore, it is recommended to cut the profile only with scissors or a hacksaw for metal.

How to plaster the slopes of the front door you now know in detail. If you do everything yourself, the price will not be significant, and this will be a guarantee of the quality of the work.

Not all companies specializing in the installation of plastic windows include the installation of slopes in their list of services. Very often, for these purposes, people additionally seek help from craftsmen, who sometimes require a fairly high fee for this work.

However, with the right tools and some skills construction works with the installation of slopes it is quite possible to cope with your own hands. One of effective methods making slopes attractive appearance is their plastering. Therefore, further it will be considered how to plaster window slopes with your own hands.

Tools and materials for work

If you decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, their installation should be completed with a beautiful frame of the slopes. To do this, you can use not only plastering technology, the sections of walls adjacent to the window can also be finished with drywall, siding or special panels that come with the window.

However, plaster allows you to decorate the room to your liking, without being tied to the color and texture of plastic or wood panels. Plastering technology allows you to use different geometries, with which you can visually enlarge the boundaries of the room, make it lighter and more comfortable.

Before starting work, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials. To make it yourself, you need to cook:

Figure 1. The principle of working with bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - small.

drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
trowel for applying the solution;
a set of spatulas;
a square with a movable rail for measuring the angle of the bevel;
level and plumb;
rule;
Malka;
a hammer;
grater;
container for mixing the solution;
plaster;
gypsum mixture;
mounting tape;
mounting foam;
edged boards;
nails.

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to make special device- small. It is a wooden lath about 35 mm wide and 20-25 mm thick. In this case, the length of this device must be equal to the width of the slope along the hypotenuse of the triangle, which is formed by the window opening and the box.

A rectangular cut is made on one side of the bevel. With one end with a cutout, the bevel is installed on the box, and with the other - on a rail or a rule attached to the outer edge of the slope. Figure 1 shows the principle of working with a bevel, where: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel when plastering; 5 - box; 6 - small.

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Preparatory work

The most important preparatory procedure before the design of the slopes is the high-quality installation of windows. If a window construction will be exposed even with a slight deviation from a strictly vertical position, then no slope will be able to correct such a defect. In this case, the installation of the window will have to be carried out again, that is, it will be necessary to remove the double-glazed window and dismantle the window frame.

After installing the window, you need to install the window sill. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to its strict horizontality. To check the horizontality of the window sill, you can pour a little ordinary water on it and see if it spreads in any direction.

Before making slopes, you need to inspect the gaps between the window frame and the wall, and also check the tightness of all seams. To seal the cracks, you can use mounting foam. After it hardens, you need to cut off all the excess. All work should be carried out very carefully, because it is much easier to get as a result flat surface with the presence of small recesses than to build up the slope with plaster to the level of bumps formed with a poor cut of the mounting foam.

Preparatory work also includes protecting the window frame. On established pvc windows usually stay protective films with markings. If the entire surface of the frame is covered with it, then nothing more needs to be done to protect it. Otherwise, you will need to process the missing sections of the frame with mounting tape. Additionally, it is recommended to secure the window sill. To do this, you can use a dense polyethylene film or plain paper that can be attached to the windowsill with tape.

After that, it is necessary to remove the old layer of plaster. To facilitate this task, you can use a perforator or a regular chisel with a wide edge. In some cases, the slope finish is carried out on top of the old layer of plaster. In this case, you only need to remove the whitewash. At the final stage preparatory work the slopes and adjacent surfaces are cleaned from dirt and dust, since the final result will depend on the cleanliness.

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Technology of plastering window slopes

For plastering internal slopes, you can use dry gypsum plaster. This mixture is fast drying. It is better to knead it with a construction mixer. Such a solution can be applied in a thicker layer than cement-sand plaster, which is the determining factor if it is necessary to putty deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand is added to the cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 2 if a plaster layer of more than 30 mm is to be applied. External window slopes are processed cement mixture or facade starting putty with the addition of water-repellent agents.

At the first stage of plastering work in inner corner slope (near the window itself) a beacon is installed according to the level: a beacon is mounted on the solution metallic profile required length.

To limit the outer corner, set wooden lath or a rule that nestles against the edge of a wall adjacent to a slope. From the side of the wall, it can be fixed with clamps, dowels or self-tapping screws. The verticality of such a structure must be checked using building level. In the same way, the upper slope is prepared, from which plastering begins.

Plaster for slopes is applied in 3 layers: thin spray, basic primer and finishing layer, the thickness of which should not exceed 2 mm. After the main plaster is sketched, it is pulled together from the bottom up with a rule or a trowel. After a certain time, when the plaster dries a little, the rule is removed, and the remaining areas are sealed with mortar. After that, the processing of the corners is carried out.

The plastering of the corners is carried out after the slopes and walls have completely dried. Corners are processed with the same plaster solution using a trowel or trowel. At the same time, in the corners, the mixture is leveled with smooth movements from the bottom up and to the sides.

The plaster layer near the corner should form a flat surface with the wall.

Finishing window slopes - important point in repair work. Properly performed work will provide you with reliable heat and moisture insulation. In addition, a neat window opening adds to the attractiveness of the interior as a whole.

Finishing the slopes of windows can be carried out using plastic panels, drywall, wood or MDF. However, the traditional use of plaster solutions has not lost its relevance. Such a finish has many advantages, and possible disadvantages can be minimized if the construction work is carried out correctly.

Advantages of finishing slopes with plaster:

low cost of materials;
high strength of the material and resistance to mechanical damage;
finishing can be done with your own hands, having studied the basic basics of construction;
long service life of slopes.

Disadvantages of finishing slopes with plaster:

low thermal insulation;
possible accumulation of condensate and the formation of mold;
over time, the mortar flakes off the frames, and cracks form.

Plastering window slopes: how to prepare a solution

To finish the slopes of windows, solutions are used, in which there must be an astringent (building gypsum, clay or cement), as well as fillers (for example, sand). The composition of the solution itself can be:

simple mortar: cement, clay or lime;
complex mortar: cement-lime, gypsum-lime, clay-lime.

A ready-made mixture for plastering window slopes can be purchased at a building supermarket or made independently. When mixing the composition, it is important to observe correct proportions to form the so-called "normal mixture". If there is more binder in the mixture than the filler, then the solution will turn out to be “fat” - after drying, such a solution will begin to crack and shrink. If there is too much filler, builders call such a solution “skinny” - after application, it will turn out to be fragile.

When you mix the composition, you can determine the degree of its fat content:

the normal mixture sticks slightly to the shovel;
oily - sticks too much;
lean mortar does not stick to the shovel at all.

What is in the solution

Lime can be slaked and quicklime. For mortars, only slaked lime is always used. Quicklime, when it enters a solution with water, will begin to react with it; this reaction will continue even after applying the plaster to the slopes, which will inevitably lead to surface swelling. Mortars containing lime are well suited for both stone and wood substrates.

Hydrated lime for inclusion in the mortar for plastering slopes can be purchased at specialized stores. However, if you want to extinguish the lime yourself, follow these instructions:

Pour the quick-extinguishing lime into a container (barrel, bucket or box) and fill with water so that it covers all the lime. When you notice the release of steam (after about 8 minutes), add more water and mix everything thoroughly.
Medium-extinguishing lime is poured into the container by ¼, and then water is added to half the container. After 25 minutes, when steam appears, add more water.
Slow-extinguishing lime is only slightly irrigated with water, and in the course of the reaction its “boiling” begins; this process will take more than half an hour.
After preliminary quenching, any kind of lime must be diluted with water until “milk of lime” is obtained, and then filtered and poured into a special pit.
After a day, pour clean sand and earth on top of the lime: the layer should be about half a meter thick. In this state, lime is aged for up to 20 days and only then does its final quenching occur. The result is a substance resembling sour cream in consistency - lime is ready for use in construction work.

Very often used in mortars for plastering window slopes, building gypsum. The solution turns out to be quite strong and quickly seizes: it begins to harden after 4 minutes, and after 30 minutes it hardens completely. If you add diluted wood glue (2.5%) to the mixture, you can thus increase the setting time of the solution. Gypsum can be used in mixtures for plastering window slopes in its pure form. The disadvantage of the material is that it is unstable to moisture. Therefore, it can only be used indoors in dry rooms.

Cement is the strongest binder to create a solution. Cement begins to set after 15 minutes. And it hardens completely only after 12 hours. To finish external slopes or slopes in a damp room, use a cement mortar with the addition of latex glue (the amount of glue should be 20% of the amount of cement).

Clay is used most often as part of mortars for plaster. wooden surfaces or stoves.

Sand is the most common filler for creating mortars. The highest quality, according to professional builders, is river quartz sand, because sea sand contains too much salt, while clay content is often increased in mountain sand. It is recommended to use coarse-grained sand for plastering window slopes, the fraction size of which is 2-4 mm. Before use, the sand must be sifted to prevent the ingress of earth and dirt into the solution.

Plastering window slopes: surface preparation

Pay special attention to surface preparation. After all, violations in the preparation process - main reason the fact that the plaster then does not hold well or cracks.

To make your slopes look beautiful and neat, you must first level their surface:

check slopes for verticality: building codes allow a deviation of no more than 1-2 mm per 1 meter of surface;
study how smooth the walls are. To even out minor depressions and cracks with plaster, you will need to increase the consumption of mortar, as well as spend more time on work - you will have to plaster in several layers. In this case, the leveling layer is applied a few days before the entire surface of the slopes is leveled with plaster;
if the irregularities are significant, use a 10x10 mm wire mesh to level the slopes. The mesh is attached to the wall with nails.

If the surface does not need leveling, you just need to clean it from dust and dirt. Such contamination, if not eliminated, can significantly reduce the degree of adhesion of the solution to the surface:

brick or concrete surface can be cleaned with mortar of hydrochloric acid(3%) and then rinse with water;
oily clay allows you to get rid of oil stains. To do this, clay is applied to the areas to be cleaned and allowed to dry, and then the layer of clay that has already absorbed the fat is removed. If it was not possible to remove the stain the first time, repeat the procedure again;
the window opening is cleaned of dirt with a brush with a metal bristle;
if there are residues on the slopes oil paint, it must be completely removed: the solution will not fall on the paint.

To improve the adhesion of the surface with the solution, various techniques are used:

if the wall is made of porous bricks, then with the help of a hammer and a chisel it is necessary to remove the mortar so that there are gaps between the bricks;
if the base of the slope is made of smooth brick or concrete, then make notches on the surface, the size of which should be about 0.5x10 cm;
prime the surface; to do this, choose a primer that suits your type of substrate (brick, concrete or drywall).

If the window opening is treated with plaster, then before applying a new layer, the old one must be updated.

remove paint residues from the surface, if any;
tap the slopes so that fragments of the old solution that do not hold well fall out;
clean cracks and chips;
remove mold and grease stains;
areas on which the layer is beaten off old plaster, moisten with water and cover with a new solution;
after the leveling layer dries, you can proceed to the treatment of the entire surface of the window slope with a solution.

The window sill, windows and radiators during operation should be protected from the ingress of mortar and mechanical influences. To do this, you can use film or paper.
The remains of the mounting foam, with which the frames are blown out, must be cut off with a knife. Experts also recommend covering the foam with a vapor barrier film or applying a layer of silicone sealant to it. This is necessary so that over time the foam does not get wet, does not lose its insulating properties and does not collapse.

Set of tools

Of course, each master uses various devices to achieve the best effect in slope plastering. However, there are a number of tools that you simply cannot do without if you decide to do the repair of window openings with your own hands.

Building level. Choose a level that will fit into the window opening, but still not too small (small may give inaccurate results). The optimal length of the level is 1 meter.
Cylinder with building foam. It will come in handy in that case. If, when installing windows, the frames were badly blown out with foam. Then you will have to correct these flaws yourself.
To freely reach the window slopes, you may need a small construction goat. Experienced builders argue that working using a ladder or stool is less convenient. In addition, the process will take much longer.
Building solutions are quite aggressive on human skin. Therefore, get gloves, take care of overalls that you don’t mind getting dirty, and also provide some kind of headgear.
If you are plastering slopes with a mortar based on cement, then you will need a grater and a trowel.
Sealant and knife.
Pencil and tape measure.
Trowel and spatula.
Malka. This is a special tool for plastering the slopes of windows and doors. It is thanks to the use of this tool that the slope angles are even. Malka can be easily made independently. To do this, you will need a piece of plywood (or plank) about 15 cm wide, in length it should be 10 cm wider than your window opening. On one side of the plywood, you need to make an incision along the width of the window frame.

Window plastering: how to do it

Dilute a little prepared solution to a more liquid state and distribute it over the entire surface of the window opening. This will ensure better adhesion of the base and plaster. To do this, apply the composition to the spatula and throw it onto the surface with strong movements. Make sure that the composition sticks, but does not spread.
Wait until the first layer of mortar dries.
Install the guide rails with gypsum mortar ( gypsum mixture dries very quickly). Before installing the rails, check the correct installation using a vertical level.
Reiki can serve metal corner or wooden planks.
Apply the solution to the slopes, and then level its surface with a bevel, swiping it from the bottom up.
Make sure that the plaster does not get on the window frame.
After the mortar dries, touch up the corners.
Grout the slopes with a special tool - a grater.
When the solution is completely dry, apply a layer of primer on it.
Go to finishing: the slope can be painted, plastered decorative plaster or decorate with tiles.
Having completed work on the inner slope, proceed to the plaster of the outer. Do not leave the outer slope untreated - polyurethane foam may begin to break down and lose its properties under the influence of environmental conditions.

The air temperature in the room should be above 5 degrees.
cook plaster mixture, strictly following the manufacturer's recommendations indicated on the package.
The solution has an expiration date, if it is running out, the mixture cannot be used.
If you have plastic windows from PVC profiles, you should be aware that under the influence of high air temperature they expand and cracks may form on the slopes. To prevent the occurrence of such problems, after the slope is ready, but the mortar has not yet completely solidified, make a groove (3-5 mm) between the frame and the slope with a spatula. Then pour silicone sealant into the resulting recess. Silicone will create elastic pad and will not allow the plaster to crack when the PVC expands.