Do-it-yourself wiring installation. A simple wiring diagram in a private house

23.06.2020

Jokes are bad with electricity - we are taught this from childhood. But life makes you adapt, and with certain knowledge, you can do the wiring in the house yourself. First of all, you have to designate the place where the switchboard will be located. Most often, a dry, warm room is chosen for it, fixing it at a height of about one and a half meters. The shield is key element and acts as the initial link in the scheme. After installation, you can begin planning and marking places for sockets, switches, and other electrical appliances.

Do-it-yourself wiring diagram in a private house

When drawing up a wiring diagram in a private house, you need to proceed from your own needs. That is, if the standard assumes the presence of two outlets per room, and you need three, then naturally you need to stop at a more convenient option for you.

Schemes are of two types: electrical and installation. The first one helps to calculate the number of devices consumed current by choosing a valid connection option. The second is actually a display of the electrical circuit in practice. It marks the installation sites of devices, calculates the number of connecting cables and other consumables.

Points to pay attention to

Although there is no basic scheme, and each is developed taking into account individual characteristics, exist important recommendations which are not recommended to be ignored.

Appliances with high power consumption (boiler, electric stove, refrigerator, washing machine) it is desirable to connect with the possibility of grounding. For this, a special three-wire wire is used ("ground", "phase" and "zero"). This type of cable is recommended for use in places with high humidity, for example, in the bathroom.

To implement the wiring diagram in a private house, the best option is a cable with a cross section of 2.5 mm. It is ideal for sockets and lamps, although for the latter you can take a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm, but the savings will not be significant.

It is very important not to overload the sockets. When connecting several, the permissible total power is 4.6 kW. Also, each large household appliance should have an individual outlet.

Stages of self-wiring

Installation work begins with the marking of the walls. The path of the cable is applied to them and the places where the sockets and switches will be located are marked. The main rule that will help to avoid "headache" in the future is that the wires are placed only in a horizontal or vertical position. There should not be any diagonals to save the cable. Turns are performed strictly at an angle of 90 °. A distance of at least 20 cm is made from the ceiling.

As for sockets and switches, most often disputes arise regarding the height of their location. Switches are mainly located on the side where the handle is located. There are two height standards for switches - 50-80 cm and 150 cm from the floor. The second option is inherent in Soviet-type buildings, and in new houses, preference is given to the first option. It is better to immediately put the location of the switches on the wiring diagram in a private house. This also applies to outlets. There is no standard regarding them, but according to an unwritten rule, they are placed either at a distance of 80 cm from the floor, or within 20-30 cm, almost immediately above the plinth. The main point in choosing a place for an outlet is ease of use.

wiring diagram for switch and socket

At the next stage, channels and holes for boxes are ditched in the walls. The cable in the channel is fixed with plaster, it dries quickly and provides a secure fixation. Plastic boxes are also placed on plaster, in which switches and sockets are mounted. Between themselves, the wires are twisted, while the area of \u200b\u200bcontact should be maximum. These places are subject to isolation.

Convenience and comfort modern life largely dependent on electricity. In each house or apartment, several household electrical appliances must be used at once to provide lighting, hot water supply, heating, food safety, air conditioning and ventilation. For reliable operation of electrical appliances, competently executed electrical wiring is necessary. Each owner has the right to decide how household appliances will be placed in his home, and where sockets and switches should be located to connect them. But the question is, is it worth using the services of professional electricians when installing electrical wiring, or can you do the electrical wiring in the apartment yourself?

How to start electrical wiring in an apartment

Work on the installation of electrical wiring in an apartment or other residential area should always begin in the same way - with the preparation of an electrical wiring plan. And that's why. Let's say you made a repair without really thinking about the final result. As they wanted, they did it.

Arranged furniture in places, placed consumer electronics. And what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets were in the "cold reserve": one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers, and a fourth by a bedside table. Even to connect the TV and your favorite stereo system, as according to the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters.

And here begins a very fun and exciting game called "Scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment." The question is: why did you make new electrical wiring, so that later you could walk and trip over extension cords? Imagine how much money and nerves can be wasted.

Wiring plan

Let's say you have an apartment in a new building, which has yet to be renovated before moving in.

The electrician in the apartment is usually done first. Before starting electro installation work it is desirable to have a wiring plan. In the very simple version it can be done by hand on a sheet of paper.

We draw a wiring plan

So, you consulted with the household and decided. Now we have to transfer all the ideas and plans to paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's as good example Let's take a standard one-room apartment.

notebook sheet;
ruler;
pen;
colored pencils or markers.

The diagram indicates the location of the walls and doorways. Specific dimensions are not required, only the overall picture is needed.

An example of a wiring plan in an apartment

Sockets.
They can be located in any convenient place, but not less than 15–20 cm from door and window openings, as well as departing from heat and gas pipelines - 40 cm. As for the quantity, it is customary to install one for every 6 m 2 of area socket.
Lighting.
Standard layouts are designed for one large lamp in the center of the ceiling. But you can do it if you want additional sources light (spotlights, sconces, nightlights), providing wiring for them.
Switches.
They are usually mounted with right side from the doorway and at a distance of 60 or 150 cm from the floor.
Cable laying paths.
When indicating them on your drawing, remember that the wiring must go strictly vertically or horizontally. No zigzags are allowed. If you plan to lay wires inside the walls, then you should retreat from ceilings and openings of 15–20 cm.
distribution boxes.
They also need to be displayed on the plan, because all the main cable connections are made in them. A box is placed on each branch from the main line, but no more than one per room.
Distribution board.
Typically, power cabinets are installed outside the apartment in a common corridor. But some layouts are designed for the internal placement of the shield, in which case the task will be a little easier.

Marking up

One way or another, between the preparation of the plan and the start of rough work, there will be a procedure called "marking".

In scientific terms, markup is the operation of applying lines (rises) to the surface of the workpiece, defining, according to the drawing, the contours of the part or place to be processed.

At the initial stages of work on the distribution of electricity in the room, the markup is carried out as follows:

first of all, the points of location of sockets and switches are applied to the walls, as well as the places for cable outlets under household appliances;
further lines are outlined along which it will be produced;
places for junction boxes are determined;
the place where the apartment electrical panel will be installed is selected;
after that, the routes of cable routes are marked from the distribution electrical panel to a specific electrical point.

In most cases, changes in the wiring diagram of an apartment are easier to make on initial stage works, namely at the markup stage. In this case, time and financial resources will be saved, since possible changes will entail additional costs.

lighting of living rooms, kitchens and corridors;
power supply of living rooms;
power supply of the kitchen and corridors;
bathroom lighting and power supply.

If the apartment has an electric stove, it must be allocated to a separate group.

Do not forget to install (RCD) for each group, the so-called differential current switches, to increase safety. Also, they must be supplied with the electrical wiring of the bathroom and kitchen.

After the groups are designed, it is necessary to determine the connection points for all the main consumers of electricity. This is a washing machine, electric stove, air conditioner, water heater, oven and dishwasher.

Now you can determine the installation locations of switches, fixtures, junction boxes and sockets, and then apply them to the rough plan of the apartment's electricians. Carefully connect all circuits and mark the lengths of the wires.

Be sure to make an electric plan for the apartment in duplicate and put one of them in the family archive with documents. It will come in handy again and again.

Now a final electrical circuit is being drawn up. To do this, an exact plan of all rooms is depicted on each of the sheets, taking into account all sizes.

All electrical points on the electrical circuit are affixed using generally accepted symbols and connected by lines denoting wires. For better readability, we recommend lighting, grounding and power cables labeled with different colors.

Be sure to mark all distances: linear dimensions rooms, the distance from the wires to the walls, ceiling, floor, as well as to heating systems. Such a scheme will not only be more visual, but it will be possible to make all the necessary calculations using it.

Requirements, rules, norms

When drawing up a diagram, you should remember some important requirements for the location of electrical wiring in residential premises.

Do not connect the grounding contacts of sockets to neutral wires, as well as to a water supply or heating system. It's dangerous for human life. For this purpose, there is a protective earth wire.

If the apartment has not a gas, but an electric stove, then the main machine must have a rating of at least 63A.

Wires are laid only vertically and horizontally, located strictly at right angles to each other.

You should not change their trajectory, in the future this is fraught with the fact that the likelihood of a breakdown of wires with a nail or drill increases when performing minor repairs. Avoid crossing wires. If this is not possible, then the distance between them should be more than 3 mm.

When setting dimensions on the plan, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cable to the floor or ceiling is at least 150 mm, to window frames, door jambs and corners - at least 100 mm. All switches and sockets should be placed at the same height.

In this case, the switches are installed to the left of entrance doors at a height of 800-900 mm, and sockets - 250-300 mm. In some cases, such as in the kitchen, the distance may vary. The gap between the heating pipes and wires must be at least 30 mm. Wires to sockets are brought from below, and to switches from above.

Features of the installation of electrical wiring in rooms with high humidity

Until now, it was believed that it was forbidden to mount an outlet in the bathroom. Indeed, the ban existed until 1996. A bathroom is a room with a humid environment, water fittings, a large number of conductive pipelines and a steel bath, which carries an increased electrical hazard.

The ban has long been canceled, partly due to the widespread use of modern electrical safety equipment.

through a residual current device (RCD) with a trip current of not more than 30 mA;
the electrical wiring must have a connected grounding contact (protective zero TN-S);
sockets should be located no closer than 60 cm from the doors of a closed shower cabin;
at a height of at least 130 cm from the floor level.

How to wire correctly

on the first one, you should draw a plan for the location of switches and lighting equipment;
and on the second - sockets.

After that, the clients of the electrical circuit should be divided into groups.

lighting fixtures for living quarters, kitchen and hallway (automatic 10A);
sockets in living rooms (automatic 25 A);
sockets in the kitchen and hallway (25 A machine);
lights and sockets in the bathroom (these customers are grouped together because they work in a humid environment and are subject to serious requirements).

For each household equipment, one group is allocated with a 25 or 32 A automatic machine. The equipment is divided into groups due to some nuances.

If all the equipment that consumes electricity is connected to one machine, then you will need a very thick cable that can withstand such a load. You will also have to buy a machine designed for high power, and this will be quite expensive.

If one of the network elements breaks down, you will have to de-energize the entire apartment in order to start restoration work.

When the electrical wiring diagram in one-room apartment is ready, it is necessary to determine the number of all consumers of electricity. You will have to calculate the required number of outlets based on the number of appliances you already have that are powered by the mains, as well as take into account future purchases.

Then you need to correctly position all sockets and switches.

switches and sockets should be placed to the left of the door;
in living quarters and hallway sockets should be at a height of 0.4 meters, in the kitchen at a height of 0.95-1.15 meters;
switches should be located at a height of 0.9 meters;
it is necessary to mark the locations of switches and sockets in the circuit.

Then you should run the wires from the switches and sockets (meaning the plan). If you are connecting through junction boxes, then all cables must first go to them, and then to the electrical panel.

cables must run strictly horizontally or vertically;
it is better to avoid crossing wires;
the cable must be mounted at a distance of 0.15 meters from the ceiling and 0.1 meters from doors and windows;
the cable to the switch is fed from above, the cable to the socket from below.

The last step will be to calculate the footage of cables and the total number of machines. When calculating the cable footage, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the rooms, and when calculating the number of machines, one must proceed from the number of groups. It should also be remembered that all machines are eventually connected to one, which is designed for high power.

If you already use or plan to purchase electric stove, then you need an automatic machine that is designed for at least 63 A.

The main types of wiring

If you decide that the correct electrical wiring in the apartment is up to you, then first you need to choose the method that is suitable for this.

There are three types of wiring:

using junction boxes;
star;
plume.

"Through junction boxes."
This is the most common type of wiring. The electrical panel is located in the stairwell, and not in the living room. A power cable enters from it, and in the shield itself there is a counter and several switches (most often 1-3). In each individual room, power is supplied through a junction box located at the entrance.

"Star".
Each lighting point or socket is located on a separate cable line entering the electrical panel, and often have their own circuit breaker.

Such wiring makes it possible to exercise full control over each element of the power supply chain. Among the disadvantages for the owner is a significant increase in the amount of required wiring and labor costs, the high cost of a fairly large shield, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the project.

Wiring "Star"

"Plume".
The principle is similar to the “star”, but differs in that not one element, but several, is placed on one cable. The project will cost less than the previous one.

It is rare to find one of the options in its "pure form". In each case, they are mixed to achieve the most effective result.

Combined wiring method

Nuances in a one-room apartment

kitchen and bathroom, where as rightly concentrated a large number of electrical appliances;
living room.

This is done in order to obtain a power reserve by distributing the total load on two circuits, and also so that in the event of a short circuit or open circuit, one line remains in working condition if possible.

Wiring diagram in the apartment (examples)

The above diagram of the apartment wiring of a standard kopeck piece with the location of the electrical panel near the entrance to the apartment is made in a somewhat simplified form. Only the main sources of lighting are presented here, that is, chandeliers, the simplest single-gang switches, hidden sockets with a protective contact for grounding.

So, as you can see for yourself, you can draw up an electrical circuit yourself. A specialist will do this work much better, but every apartment owner must be able to correctly determine the places where the wires pass in order to avoid accidental damage to them by an unsuccessfully driven nail or drill bit.

Installation of electrical wiring in the apartment

Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment step-by-step - a matter that requires heightened attention to the work performed, strict compliance with safety regulations and installation rules.

The slightest mistake can lead to a short circuit. There are a number of specific rules, adhering to which you can make high-quality electrical wiring.

Conducting an electrician is not difficult for those who know how to handle the tool.

Mounting can be done in either of two ways. The hidden laying method includes embedding wiring in walls, ceilings and voids, under flooring, behind plasterboard sheets.

The open installation method includes laying cables in special boxes, cable channels, using brackets, clips. Both of these methods have their advantages. To perform the installation, first of all, it is necessary to move all furniture and household appliances away from the walls and, if carried out overhaul remove all construction debris.

Let's look briefly at each of these stages.

Methods for laying electrical wires and cables

open;
hidden.

ceiling lining;
laying on the walls;
and floor padding.

Hidden way

This technology is the most dusty and dirty, as you will have to ditch the walls and ceiling or tear off the flooring. Therefore, it is best to perform it during the overhaul.

If the wiring on the walls is planned in the power supply project, then we put places for wiring on them, pick up a puncher or grinder and cut grooves of a certain width and depth. We choose the depth based on the fact that after laying the wiring or cable, the plaster layer will be no more than 10 mm, the width is unlimited.

We cut out places for sockets and distribution boxes using a special crown. We remember the load-bearing walls and make strobes not too deep in them. In apartments of panel houses, interfloor ceilings have internal voids in which wiring can be stretched.

Today, monolithic structures with brick interior floors are more popular; in such apartments, strobes are made in all walls, the main thing is not to hook the supporting monolithic beams.

The most economical option for concealed installation is laying under the floor covering. The main thing is the presence of corrugations for each wire. This is done for convenience in case of repair or replacement of wires and for additional insulation.

After the strobes are equipped, proceed with the installation switchboard lighting and cabling. The shield itself can be hinged or embedded in the wall. In new houses, a special niche is provided for it, and in old ones it is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

We install automatic machines inside the shield, from which VVG-3 * 2.5 wires will go to sockets and the main highway. From distribution boxes to lighting fixtures, we lay VVG-3 * 1.5. For stationary devices of high power, we make separate lines from the VVG-3 * 2.5 cable. In the places of installation of connection points, we make a release of 15-20 cm.

Now in distribution boxes in a single network. The highest quality connection will be the use of SZ. In order not to confuse the wires during the connection, you can hang tags with a certain marking on them.

After that, using the tester, we check the entire network for damage and errors. If everything is fine, then we wall it up, install switches and sockets in place.

Open mounting

For rooms where it is forbidden or impossible to lay wires hidden, open installation is used (external wiring in the apartment). For these purposes, boxes, cable channels or special clips are used. The laying is quite simple and is carried out only along the walls and ceiling.

The first thing we do is mark the place of laying and drill holes for fasteners in increments of 40-50 cm, if the space for the wire is less than 0.5 m, then we make a step of 15 cm for two fastening points.

After that, we fix boxes, cable channels or clips to the wall or ceiling. At the wiring points, we install external distribution boxes, and wire connections, wiring and installation of connection points are carried out in the same way as in the hidden installation method.

The advantage of open mounting is easy access to all wiring, and the disadvantage is not very aesthetic appearance.

Usually, cables from the distribution room electrical panel are laid along the ceiling (floor slab).

Holes are drilled on the ceiling, then, when laying the cable, a cable fastener is inserted into this hole. I will dwell on this in detail, I will only say that there are many mounting options (for example, a dowel-clamp, dowels with a coupler).

Tools needed for electrical installation

A wall chaser (or, in extreme cases, a grinder) for chasing furrows, a puncher.
Screwdriver Set.
Pliers, cutters.
Building level.
Phase indicator.
Drills, a crown for a puncher for drilling sockets for socket boxes.
Knife and hacksaw.

In the absence of a professional tool, you can always rent it.

What wire to use for wiring in the apartment

Currently, there is no question - what kind of wire is needed for wiring in the apartment. For the installation of home electrical wiring, wires and cables exclusively with copper conductors are used. Wires and cables with aluminum conductors for internal wiring cannot be used.

increased ductility (less likely to break when laying);
corrosion resistance (oxidize more slowly);
long service life compared to aluminum;
withstand a large load with a smaller cross section.

Wires and cables are single-core and multi-core. Stranded wires and cables have two or more cores reliably insulated from each other in a common sheath.

Example stranded wire- PRTO brand wire (wire with a copper core with rubber insulation in a braid of cotton yarn impregnated with an anti-rotting compound). The cores of single-core and multi-core wires and cables can be made single-wire and multi-wire.

Cables and wires differ from each other in the type of sheath and names. The sheath of wires and cables serves to protect the core insulation from exposure to light, moisture, various chemicals and prevent them from mechanical damage. The structure of the cable may include armor, and the sheath allows them to be laid in more adverse environmental conditions.

Wires can only be laid in a hidden way, with open laying - only in pipes and ducts. Cables can be laid open.

The most popular cable for use in home wiring is VVGng, the NYM cable and PUNP wire are less commonly used.

It is best to use a NYM cable to connect to the floor panel. The same cable is used to connect floor plate with apartment or room shields (provided that there are such). Usually such shields are organized in private cottages.

It can also be used for individual connection of powerful consumers. This cable can also be used for all power wiring in an apartment or house, but since it costs more than the VVGng cable and PUNP wire, it is used less frequently for these purposes.

VVG is an unarmored protected cable with copper conductors, PVC insulation, in a PVC sheath. The cable can be used in dry and wet areas.

The VVG cable is not designed for stretching. The insulated conductors of the VVG cable are twisted and have a distinctive color. The inner sheath does not contain filling in the space between the cores.

Cable VVGng

The designation "ng" in the name of the cable (VVGng) means that it does not spread combustion when laid in bundles (a composition based on refractory plastic compound is used). If the VVG cable is used instead of the VVGng cable, then in the event of a fire in one of the cables, the flame will spread to other cables, instead of localizing the fire.

The VVGng cable has a wide variety of shapes. It is most convenient to use a VVGng flat cable. In addition, it can also be round, square, sector, and even triangular.

Cable NUM (NYM) - produced according to the German standard DIN 57250. The cable can be used indoors with hidden and open laying. The NYM cable can be used outdoors, only out of direct sunlight. The NYM cable has low flammability and gas and smoke emission, which is especially important for residential premises.

NYM cable

The NYM cable consists of copper conductors, an intermediate sheath made of chalk-filled rubber and a sheath made of flame retardant PVC insulation. The use of an intermediate sheath in the design of the cable makes it easy and convenient to cut the cable during installation, increases its fire hazard and increases flexibility.

PUNP - installation flat wire. This is the cheapest wire of all cable and wire products used for electrical wiring in everyday life. PUNP wire is produced with two or three single-wire copper conductors and polyvinyl chloride insulation in a sheath made of PVC-compound. Cores can be dyed different colors.

Wire PUNP

PUNP wire is produced only flat. These cable and wire products are used for both power and lighting networks. In the second case, take wires of smaller sections.

Much less often, when wiring home electricians, wires with rubber insulation of the PRN, PRI, PRTO brands are used. Wire PRTO is designed for laying in fireproof pipes, PRI - can be used for laying in dry and damp rooms, PRN (protected wire) - on outdoors, PRD, PRHD (two-core twisted wire) - only in lighting networks of dry rooms.

For open wiring, it is convenient to use a flat wire with copper conductors and PVC insulation with a dividing base of the PPV brand, as well as a wire with PPP polyethylene insulation. There is a flat wire without a separating base - PPVS, but it is not very convenient to use it.

The previously used wires with aluminum conductors (APR, APV, APRTO, APPV) are now not used in the construction and modernization of home electrical wiring.

Wire with copper core and PVC insulation PV. PV wires can be single-wire and multi-wire. Wires are available with different colors of insulation. In household electrical wiring, a single-core wire PV1 in yellow-green coloring is used for a potential equalization system (DSUP).

Wire PV1

When choosing wires and cables, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Code for the color of the insulation.

The insulation of the neutral conductor must be blue color, zero protective - yellow-green. The color of the insulation of the phase conductors must differ from the color of the zero ones. There are many options here - brown, red, gray, white, black, etc.

It is also very convenient to use a different color of phase conductors for each section of the wiring, as well as different colors of core insulation for power and lighting wiring.

If you choose and then install electrical wiring with a wire or cable without complying with the requirements for the color of the cores, then in the future this will lead to significant difficulties in maintaining and repairing electricians in the apartment. In addition, the installation process itself can be very complicated, especially when using a large number switches and sockets.

For different groups of household electrical appliances, wires with different cross sections should be used.

Lighting - wire section from 1.5 mm (automatic - 16 A).
Sockets - the cross section must be at least 2.5 mm (circuit breaker - 20 A).
Powerful electrical appliances such as electric stoves and hobs– not less than 4 mm (25 A).

Installation of an apartment electrical panel

Before laying cables, it is advisable to mount the electrical panel in the wall. The size of the shield is selected according to the number of circuit breakers, RCDs, differential circuit breakers that will be installed in it.

The boards are produced in the following main sizes: 4, 8, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 60, 72 modules (1 module = 1 single-pole circuit breaker). In an apartment, shields of 12, 24, or 36 modules are usually used.

In my practice of wiring apartments, in most cases I use electrical panels for 24 or 36 modules (24 modules for a 1-room apartment, 36 modules for a 2 or 3-room apartment).

One shield may not be enough if you plan to use equipment for telecommunication networks (router, media converter). In this case, it is rational to place these components in an additional electrical panel, which is installed next to the main (power) panel.

Modern electrical panels are hidden in the wall and do not take up much space.

The advantages of installing an additional electrical panel is that it contains the network equipment that is necessary for the functioning of television and the Internet. Thus, the router, suspended in the hallway on the "carnation" is a thing of the past. Instead, functional and ergonomic solutions come.

Installation of socket boxes and junction boxes

After marking, the places of future sockets and switches became prominent. In most cases, in our time, sockets are installed closer to the floor at a height of about 20-40 cm from the floor, switches - at a height of 70-90 cm from the floor.

This rule is not strictly binding, changes are possible upon request. For example, it is more convenient for tall people to use switches located above, for people of short stature, on the contrary, it is better if the switch is placed lower.

Sockets and switches can be assembled in blocks of up to 5 pieces, and sometimes up to 6 in one line. Moreover, both vertical and horizontal installation. All these points should already be taken into account when marking.

And now it remains only to drill recesses in the wall for the sockets. The standard European socket has a diameter of 68 mm. When folding several socket boxes in a row, the distance between their centers should be exactly 71 mm. Depth of socket boxes 45 mm or 60 mm.

Deeper ones are used, for example, for installing a temperature controller for underfloor heating or for switching electrical wires if necessary.

After that, holes for the junction boxes are drilled. Usually junction boxes (they are also called doses) are mounted under the ceiling at a distance of about 15-30 cm from the ceiling. The following rule must be observed: the doses must be on the same vertical axis as the sockets and / or switches located below.

Not everyone likes junction boxes visible on the wall. It is allowed to install junction boxes under the ceiling, provided that the wires are connected by welding or crimping.

wall chasing

Gating is the process of cutting grooves (recesses, furrows) in concrete, brick or plaster layer for subsequent laying of communications in it (in electrics, communications are electrical cables and wires, in plumbing - pipes).

Before strobe, it is necessary to designate the width and depth of the strobe.

the number of cables laid together;
cable sections;
arrangement of cables in the strobe relative to each other.

On the last point, it is worth clarifying: the cables in the strobe can be laid both flat and in the depth of the strobe. In one case, the strobe is made deeper, in the other, wider. Here, each electrician decides for himself.

You should not make the strobe too wide (with a margin) - during installation, the wire will constantly fall out and it will have to be fixed in the strobe with special clips or “grabbed” with plaster. Ideally, under a wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm, make a strobe 4 mm wide - the cable goes in there with a little interference and holds without problems.

I strongly recommend making strobes with a strobe cutter with an industrial vacuum cleaner connected, and not using a grinder for this. Since fine dust after such chasing will settle for a long time, which can stall all work.

Professional electricians usually have all these tools (chamber and industrial vacuum cleaner) available. At self-assembly they can be rented.

Wiring

along the ceiling;
by gender;
along the walls.

there is no risk of breaking the wire during repairs;
there is always an opportunity to get to the wiring.

You can always remove it if necessary. stretch ceiling, make changes to the electrical wiring, and then install the ceiling in place. When wiring on the floor, you will have to hollow out the screed, which is fraught with high costs.

Connection of wires in the junction box

twist;
soldering;
welding;
crimping;
PPE caps;

Please note that only joints made by welding and crimping (as the most reliable) can be walled up according to the PUE.

The cost of electrical work in the apartment

Price list for electrician services:

The average cost of turnkey electrical work

There is another approach when calculating the cost of electrical installation work. The turnkey price is formed depending on the number of installation points.

socket;
switch;
lamp;
chandelier, etc.

Prices for electrical installation of one point from 700 to 1500 rubles. (Of course, without taking into account the cost of materials).

Do-it-yourself wiring in the apartment from the shield

To begin with, let's deal with general rules wiring harnesses. Electrical wires and cables must be laid strictly vertically or strictly horizontally with rotation angles of 90 degrees. The diagram below clearly shows the wiring diagram with all the recommended indents, as well as the recommended installation height of switches and sockets:

It should be noted right away that wiring can be done in two ways: open or hidden:

Open laying of electrical wiring is the simplest and most inexpensive solution, and one of the advantages of this type of wiring, in addition to simplicity and low cost of installation, is the convenience of its repair, but the main disadvantage of such a laying is considered to be a violation of the appearance of the interior of the room. Typically, such wiring is carried out in one of three ways: in a box (cable channel), on brackets, corrugation (or metal hose), or in PVC pipes.

Examples of open wiring in the box and on the brackets:

Wiring in a box Wiring on brackets

Gasket in box Gasket on brackets in corrugation

Mounting concealed wiring- this is a more time-consuming process in which the electrical wiring is hidden under the wall cladding, or placed in strobes:

The main advantage of this method of laying electrical wiring is the preservation of the appearance of the interior, and in addition, it provides good protection electrical wiring from mechanical damage (although of course it is still possible to drill it or pierce it with a nail while hanging a picture). The disadvantages are the complexity of installation and the complexity of repairing such wiring, in addition, this method of laying, as a rule, is more expensive.

Sockets, switches, junction boxes and switchboards also have 2 types of execution: for open and for indoor (concealed) installation:

Installation of open wiring

STEP 1 (general) Drawing up the wiring diagram

This stage is common when laying both hidden and open wiring.

We determine the installation locations for sockets, switches, lamps and an electrical panel (if needed). For example, let's draw up the following wiring diagram in one of the rooms (for clarity, all our wiring will be located on one wall):

Ready! We determined where we want to install sockets, a switch, where the lamp will be located, and also where we will install the electrical panel and made a wiring diagram. Now you can proceed directly to its installation.

STAGE 2 (Open wiring installation) Electrical installation

To begin with, we will stipulate that the most common ways of laying open wiring are laying in a box and laying on brackets, so we will consider them:

Installation video:

installation of open wiring step - 2

STAGE 3 (Installation of open wiring) Installation of boxes (cable channels), cable laying.

Now that everything is in place, we can proceed with the installation of the box (cable channel) along the planned lines for laying electrical wiring.

A cable channel is a plastic box in which electrical wiring is laid. It consists of a base and a cover:

Boxes come in a variety of sizes and colors, and typically have a standard length of 2 meters. For installation, the boxes are cut into sections of the required length (usually the box is cut with a hacksaw), for example, as can be seen from our installation diagram below, we need to cut the box into the following sections:

Segments 2 meters long - 2 pcs

Segments 1.5 meters long - 3 pcs

Segments 0.5 meters long - 2 pcs

Segments 0.3 meters long - 1 pc.

Segments 0.2 meters long - 1 pc

In total, the total length of the box we need is 10 meters (that is, you can buy 5 strips of the box, 2 meters each).

After the boxes are cut, you can proceed with their installation, they are mounted very simply: you need to open the lid of the box and screw the base of the box to the wall with self-tapping screws (in case the wall is made of wood or drywall) or on plastic dowel-nails (in case the wall is brick , concrete, etc.). After the box is attached to the wall, a cable is laid in it and the box is closed with a lid. The corners of the box can be closed with special plastic corners, it is also possible to make corners with the box trimmed at 45 °:

Video of the installation of the box (the video is not the best, but nothing better could be found on the Internet, maybe in the future we will shoot our own video on this topic, but for now we have to use what we have):

installation of open wiring step - 3

If you decide to install the wiring on brackets, then instead of installing the box, after installing sockets, switches and everything else, a cable is immediately laid, which is attached to the wall with brackets. Staples (clips) for fastening cables are plastic in different sizes, designed for certain types and sizes of cables:

Also brackets can be universal:

IMPORTANT! When laying wiring on brackets, remember that in this way it is forbidden to fasten ordinary cables to combustible bases (for example, to wooden wall), for this it is necessary to use special flame retardant cables (non-flammable).

STEP 4 (Fixed wiring) Assembling the circuit.

Now that everything is mounted and the cabling is done along the walls, you can start connecting sockets, switches, lamps and assembling by connecting wires in junction boxes.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

STEP 1 Drawing up the wiring diagram

This stage is common when installing both hidden and open wiring and has already been described above.

STAGE 2 (Installation concealed wiring) Drilling holes in the wall

If a hidden electrical wiring is being installed, then after drawing up the installation diagram (STAGE 1), it is necessary to start drilling holes in the wall with a diameter of 72mm ( standard diameter for socket boxes) in places where switches, sockets and junction boxes will be installed. Drilling holes is usually performed with a puncher (or drill) with a special crown for concrete:

STAGE 3 (Installation of flush wiring) Wall chasing

After the holes are ready, we ditch the wall along the planned lines for laying electrical wiring. According to the technology, this is done as follows: First, 2 parallel cuts are made in the concrete wall with a special wall chaser, after which the concrete between these cuts is knocked out with a perforator:

However, there are other ways to make a strobe, instead of a strobe cutter, you can use an angle grinder (grinder), or you can even do drilling strobes (but this method is only suitable if you need to lay a maximum of a couple of meters of cable, because the method is too laborious .):

Video of the execution of the strobe:

STAGE 4 (Flush-wiring installation) Cabling

Now it is necessary to lay the cable in the prepared strobes so that the cable does not fall out of the strobe during the laying process, it must be fixed there, this can be done either by grabbing the cable with gypsum plaster, because. it quickly hardens, either with a special bracket:

Video of laying the cable in the strobe:

STEP 5 (Flush-wiring installation) Installation of back boxes

It's time to fix the mounting boxes in the holes drilled during the second stage (the boxes in which our switches and sockets will be installed in the future). It is better to fix mounting boxes on gypsum plaster(Tip: gypsum dries very quickly, so it is better to dilute in small portions, because there is a risk that while you mount one socket, all your remaining mortar will turn into stone).

In order to fix the mounting box (socket box) it is necessary:

Clean our hole from dust and concrete fragments, after which we wet the surface of the hole.
Put plaster in the hole, with the expectation that after installing the socket box in the hole, there would be no places left unfilled with plaster along the edges, but without fanaticism.
We insert the socket box into the hole, having previously broken out the hatch for the cable insertion from above, this hatch should be opposite the shtraba.
We press the box until it is flush with the wall.
After the solution has dried, remove excess plaster with a spatula.

That special attention was paid to the creation of a diagram on which all elements of the electrical network should be displayed, from the introductory machine to the sockets in the rooms. Next, we will consider the best option for a home wiring diagram using reliable protective automation and a single-phase electric meter.

Immediately I would like to note that in this article we consider only one of the best options for wiring wiring in rooms. In reality, you can completely modify the project, based on factors such as: the total load from electrical appliances, the number of rooms, the desire to save electricity, etc.

We bring to your attention a typical wiring diagram in a 220 V house:

With regard to the constituent elements of the electrical wiring, we recommend using the following:

The electricity meter is two-tariff, as this will help to significantly save electricity, for example, according to the tariffs of 2019 in Moscow with two-zone billing in the night zone (from 23:00 to 07:00), 1 kW / h of electricity costs 2.29 r, and in the day zone ( from 07:00 to 23:00) - almost three times more expensive, so you will pay 6.18 rubles for each kilowatt-hour.
If there is an opportunity (380V) to your house, use it. Firstly, this will allow the use of wires with a smaller cross section for connecting powerful consumers. Secondly, most electric stoves and electric boilers suggest a three-phase, two-phase and compromise single-phase connection option. Thirdly, if you like to work with your own hands, then it is easier to connect to a three-phase network asynchronous electric motors, they will work in full power and more even. Such engines are in the vast majority of machines. If this is not possible, you still need to pay due attention to the single-phase wiring diagram for 220V.
The cable throughout the house should be copper, it is best to buy or VVGng-LS. Suitable option is selected after . Usually, a cable with a diameter of 1.5 mm2 is chosen for lamps, and 2.5 mm2 for sockets. The cross section of individual lines of powerful electrical appliances is calculated individually.
The number of outlets is calculated individually for each case, so on the wiring plan in the house we indicated one outlet for an example (in fact, there can be any other number of light bulbs). It is recommended to create several outlet groups throughout residential building based on the fact that during the repair it will not be necessary to leave the whole house “without light”. The situation is the same with lighting - there is a desire and opportunities, create several highways on the electrical circuit, each of which will serve 1-3 groups of consumers. We talked about that in a separate article.
At the input, immediately after the electricity meter, install a circuit breaker that matches your home. You can find out this information from the technical specifications for connection, the power supply agreement or consult management company or power supply. As for the rest of the machines, for sockets they can be designed for 16 A, and for a lighting group for 10 A. In a good way, you need to calculate the current load on a residential building and choose the most suitable ones. Sockets must be protected from a residual current device or difavtomat.
Next to the country house there is a garage, which is also powered from the home input shield. we discussed in detail in the corresponding article.
The input of electricity is carried out either through the air by a wire, a branch from the support, or underground by a cable or laid in a pipe. If you have an underground input with an AVBbShv aluminum cable, if possible, replace it with a copper counterpart -.
In all rooms it is better to use, because. they are more durable, consume a minimum of electricity and at the same time can be used in absolutely any room, even in the bathroom, even in the kitchen, not to mention the bedroom.
For the bathroom, a separate outlet group is displayed, protected by a 10 mA RCD (other outlets can be protected by a 30 mA RCD), which is associated with an increased risk of injury electric shock(the room has high humidity). This is discussed in more detail in 7.1.48, 7.1.71-7.1.88.
Grounding is present, we did not show each individual core on a typical wiring diagram (phase, zero, ground), so as not to clutter up the picture.

In the event that you decide to make the wiring diagram in the house three-phase (at 380 V), you will have to select other network elements according to their characteristics, however, the principle of cabling the rooms will remain the same. Only in this case, it will additionally need to be correct.

The diagram below clearly shows how to distribute single-phase consumers in a house into groups:

We draw your attention to the fact that in a wooden country house (usually suburban option buildings), the electrical circuit will look different and the elements of the electrical network will be different, which is due to fire safety requirements!

Useful video

In this article, we will tell you how to do the wiring in the house with your own hands, show the installation diagrams, as well as photo / diagrams and video instructions.

When performing all work, the house must be de-energized. It does not matter whether electricity is being conducted in it for the first time or just the wiring is being replaced.
When choosing wires, you need to focus on copper with double protective insulation. However, if there are old electrical systems in the house, you need to make sure that aluminum elements were not installed in them. Combining copper with aluminum leads to disastrous consequences. All old aluminum elements should be replaced with new ones.
When installing an electricity meter, you must choose a place at the entrance. This greatly simplifies various repairs in the future.
It is better to immediately provide the electrical system with a residual current device (abbreviated RCD). This will keep everyone in the house safe. You also need to think in advance about the location of the ground loop, if it is not already installed.
Never use bare wires, even when it comes to hard-to-reach places. Such savings can be very costly.
All branch parts and their connections must be placed in boxes. This is a necessary security measure. Electrical wiring must be in a protective sheath.
During its laying, it is necessary to draw up a layout plan. This is especially important if the wiring is installed in a hidden way. In the future, such foresight will make life easier.
Wires should be placed strictly in straight horizontal and vertical lines. You can not lay them diagonally or curved, even for the sake of economy.
During any construction works gotta go with the plan. This is especially true for various drilling operations, when there is a high risk of touching the wire.
If communications are located by an open method, then they must be placed in a box.
All switches and sockets must be located on the same side of the door and at the same height. This measure ensures ease of use.

Types of wiring

Before you conduct wiring in the house, you should remember that this can be done in two ways: open and closed. The closed method has its advantages and disadvantages. The main advantage of this method of conducting electricity is that the wires are not visible.

The external appearance of the walls is not spoiled by boxes and other structures. However, the wire hidden in the thickness of the wall is easier to damage during various construction works, so it is better to have detailed plan electrical communications in the house. In addition, any work with wires automatically in this case involves a new repair.

Hidden wiring is not possible in every home. But an open one can be placed anywhere, even where there is a chance to hide it in strobes. Open installation makes it possible to work with electricity without first dismantling the wall covering. This box is very easy to open. However, the design itself, according to some, disfigures the appearance of the walls and is difficult to decorate.

Partially concealed mounting is possible to facilitate access to wires in concealed installation. Some of the most important nodes are left open to provide access to the wire.

Before you conduct electricity in the house, you need to draw up a detailed wiring plan with symbols for various devices. In this case, there is absolutely no need to study the designations that are officially accepted. Here, your own conditional symbols are suitable, the main thing is that they are understandable to the master. Here is the main list of devices that will be used during work and which must be somehow indicated on the plan:

wires;
counter;
switch;
socket;
circuit breakers;
voltage relay;
installation and mounting boxes;

All indicated devices will have to be purchased at the store. You also need to buy terminal blocks for connection, electrical tape and "probes". In conclusion, you will need a different tool. It is advisable to carry out all work in rubber gloves for safety.

RCD, counter and relay must be mounted in the accounting board. After that, you can proceed to the rest of the work.

With the help of a chisel, it is necessary to draw strobes in the walls of the room - furrows in which the wire will be placed. The same work can be easily done with a grinder with a special abrasive disc. A chisel is also suitable for work, but you will have to sweat with it.
For fixing in strobes, you need to use special loops. From above, the wires are closed with alabaster or plaster.
Using a drill and a puncher, you need to make recesses for sockets and switches. The socket box is installed in the recess on the alabaster.
The soldering boxes are installed in the same way.

Open wiring is even easier to install than hidden wiring. This is the best place to start for beginners. The only difficulty that may arise here is the installation of closing boxes. However, such work should not cause significant difficulties when using modern materials.

The wire is attached to the wall with an electrical bracket, and then covered with a decorative box. The box serves not only for decorative purposes, but also protects communications. It does not spoil the appearance of the room.

Connecting new copper and old aluminum wires is possible, but should not be done for a long time. Terminal blocks are used for connection. Sooner or later, the combination of two metals will produce corrosion, which is unsafe. It is better to replace old communications in advance.

When working with appliances and tools, when there is still no electricity in the house, the problem of energy supply arises. An autonomous power generator or neighbors can save.

Internal wiring in the house is only half the solution to the problem. The second half is connecting to external sources nutrition. Connection to the power grid can only be obtained by providing a document stating that the wiring was carried out by companies that have the appropriate permission for such work. Therefore, without the invitation of experts can not do. However, in this case, everything will be much cheaper. If old communications were replaced, then there will be no problems at all.