The key for the electrical panel in the entrance. How to open the guard in the entrance without a key

An unscheduled shutdown of electric machines is a problem that almost every resident of an apartment and a private house, the owner of a summer house, has encountered. country cottage. Most often, traffic jams fly out due to surges in the power supply network, short-term current overloads after turning on powerful household or building appliances, and short circuits. In order to restore the power supply, it is necessary to determine the reasons for the shutdown, start the electric machine.

Knocked out the light in the apartment: what to do

Before climbing into the electrical panel on your own, you need to figure out the reasons for the shutdown. So, if there is no light in the whole house and neighboring ones, then the reason for the shutdown could be problems at the power plant, rolling blackouts. In this case, turn off all electrical household appliances from sockets (so that when current is applied high voltage it has not burned out), and wait for the restoration of the power supply. If you live in an apartment building of the post-war years of the twentieth century (for example, in Khrushchev), then, most likely, safety plugs were knocked out in your apartment or on the site.

In order to return the power supply, you must:

1. Exit to the landing;
2. Open the electrical panel;
3. Determine which of the plugs has flown out (this can be done visually: the white button on the black round plug will stick out of the case for a few cm);
4. Push the white button into the fuse box.

At some sites, new electric machines may be installed. If the pedals of the machine are lowered down, then the plugs are knocked out. In order to return the light, it is necessary to move the pedals to the upper position.

Why and how to turn off the electricity in the apartment

When carrying out any electrical work, a long departure of the owners, or the occurrence of potentially dangerous situations related to the quality of the wiring, the apartment must be de-energized. You can do this from the landing.

So, to cut off the electricity in the apartment, you must follow these recommendations:

• If the plugs in the machine are old, ceramic, without buttons, to de-energize the apartment, it will be enough just to unscrew them;
• If the traffic jams on the site are black, with buttons, you need to press the small red buttons on all of them;
• If there is a new machine on the site, in order to de-energize the apartment, you will need to lower its pedals down.

After that, you need to check whether you have turned off your machine. Otherwise, when carrying out repair work, you can suffer greatly.

Rather and easier to control the shutdown will be using a special indicator screwdriver.

Working with such a tool is simple: you just need to insert a screwdriver into the socket and check whether the indicator lights up on the tool. If yes, then the apartment is not de-energized. For such a test, any outlet in your apartment is suitable.

How to de-energize an apartment from the landing

In the apartment panel there can be several groups of switches. One group may be responsible for the light in the rooms, the other for the current in the sockets. In order to de-energize the apartment in this case, it will be necessary to move all the toggle switches of the machine to the lower position or find a common switch to which the phase and zero are connected. It is this switch that is responsible for entering electricians into the apartment. Such a switch is located under your group in the electrical panel.

In old houses, in addition to the main machine, it is necessary to turn off the switch, which is responsible for zero.

There is such a switch in the shield below. There are often two such switches on a standard landing. You can determine which of them belongs to your apartment by logic: the one that is closer to your apartment will be your switch.

At the same time, it is necessary:

• Always check whether the apartment is de-energized (voltage in sockets) using an indicator screwdriver;
• Warn neighbors about possible outages;
• Unplug household appliances that require delicate handling (computer, refrigerator, washing machine);
• Do not touch plugs in case of malfunctions of the electricity meter: a broken electricity meter can be misleading, showing that electricity is not being supplied;
• To continue repairs that require electricity, it is necessary to use special carrying cords with sockets connected to the wires of the machine. At the same time, such manipulations should not be carried out without a specialist.

If necessary, you can quickly find and turn off your machine, you can sign it. Yes, over working group you can write the number of the apartment with a marker.

Several ways to open the shield in the entrance without a key

The electrical panel is made of refractory material, is located in the entrance and often consists of two or three sections responsible for the machine, light meters and devices operating from low currents. Each section has its own lockable door. This key may be held by an electrician serving the house, a concierge. Often, duplicates are removed from the main key, which are issued for each apartment. This is done so that, in case of unforeseen situations, residents can quickly respond and not wait for an electrician. But what to do if the key was not given to you?

There are several ways to open the electrical panel without a key:

1. If the shield is protected by built-in small locks (as on mailboxes), to open them, you can use a female hairpin - hairpin. To do this, insert the pin with one leg into the upper part of the lock, the other into the lower one, and try to turn the mechanism. Instead of a hairpin, you can use any other thin but durable object. The main thing is to act carefully so as not to break the item in the lock.
2. Simple mechanisms can be opened with a flat screwdriver. To do this, insert a screwdriver into the lock and turn it to the right.
3. Padlocks can be opened with a crowbar or pliers.

Before cracking the shield, you can contact the neighbors. Often, tenants who have lived in the house for a long time have their own keys. At the same time, after an emergency de-energization of the apartment, the shield must be closed. This will protect curious children and adult residents of the house from injury.

If traffic jams are knocked out, how to turn on the electricity (video)

Power outages in old houses are a common thing, because the old electrical wiring and the machines themselves are not designed for modern electrical engineering. Therefore, often, with the simultaneous inclusion a large number electrical appliances, machine knocks out. If your light turns off often, then you, like no one else, should know how to quickly turn on the machine. After all, sometimes there is not enough time to wait for electricians. Use the above tips, and turn on the machines on your own quickly and safely!

Modern apartments, as a rule, are equipped with individual electrical panels. But the inhabitants of the old houses were not so lucky.

The equipment is brought to the landing, and is designed for two, three and even four neighbors. The owners do not have the key to the shield.

In case of knocking out traffic jams or life-threatening situations (for example, a fire), it is very difficult for them to get to the knife switch.

The absence of a key in the public domain is explained by the security of the residents themselves. People without special skills run the risk of touching high-voltage wires, which can end sadly for them.

The purpose of the switchboard is to control the admission of electricity to the apartments, and take into account the amount of its consumption. In addition, he is also responsible for the devices of the telephone and Internet networks.

General features floor boards:

• they are old (found in houses built in the last century) and new (in modern buildings), their difference is in the internal structure system;
• each of them has at least two, and more often three compartments: one of them contains electricity meters, and the other is responsible for devices operating from low currents (Internet, telephone); any compartment is equipped with its own lockable door;
• the compartment with metering devices should be equipped with special windows, from which the indicators of the devices are clearly visible;
• the material for the shield in the entrance can only be metal with a set of necessary properties;
• to install it, choose a recess in the wall on the landing;
• sashes open freely at an angle of 95 degrees;
• access for outsiders to the device of the shield is limited by means of a lock, the key is kept by the attendant apartment house electrician.

And yet, it is very inconvenient after each case of broken traffic jams to invite the master.

Types of electrical panels

The shield is needed to distribute the voltage across all electrical systems that are connected to it. The automata mounted in the device are used to turn on / off the current and protect against small accidents and short circuits.

Switchboards for entrances are made of metal, and for individual apartments– made of fire-resistant plastic.

The storey version combines several functions at once: energy distribution to all apartments on the landing and accounting for consumed electricity.

However, there are panels without meters, they are installed in the apartment and are called group distribution.

The inhabitants of new buildings are lucky, their electrical panels are located directly on the occupied living space. They do not need to be opened without a key, as it is included in the kit.

But what about the neighbors in the old house? How to open the electrical panel without a key yourself?

Procedure

Strictly observing the following instructions, you can open the shield without harm to health:

1. First, figure out what series the device is installed in your entrance. How many leaves does it contain. A standard electrical panel has 3 of them:

• the long door on the right - there are low-voltage connections for the phone and the Internet;
• rectangular top left - automatic switches are located behind it;
• square at the bottom left, equipped with special windows - contains electric meters for each of the apartments on the site.

1. Determine the types of locks on each of the wings. If they are made in the form of plates protruding forward, it will not be difficult to open them. For this, ordinary pliers are suitable. By the position of the plate and tongue, you can determine whether the lock is closed with a key or not. Sometimes, locks on electrical panels are installed the same as on mailboxes. In this case, each tenant receives his own key and can easily use it.
2. After you managed to open the first sash, follow the safety rules and do not damage the property management company, namely:

• do not touch the wires and metal parts in the shield, they may be under high voltage;
• do not repair the system yourself, even if you have basic electrical skills;
• do not try to stop or turn off the meter, as well as exert any external influence on it, it is owned by the management company and you may be held liable by law for its breakdown;
• do not cut off the power supply to other apartments, except in cases emergencies, for example, if one of the residents is struck by an electric current.

1. If your panel is equipped with electronic meters, using special buttons you can get information about the electricity used (per month, day or night). At the same time, it is worth overcoming your curiosity and not climbing into the devices of your neighbors. The buttons must be pressed with the greatest care so as not to touch the current conductors. How to use electronic meters correctly should be detailed in the instructions located next to the shield. Using the system, you can only get acquainted with the incoming data, but you cannot change the readings or stop the meter.
2. To troubleshoot electrical wiring problems, do the following without waiting for the arrival of a professional:

• open the sash, the one with machine guns (yours should be marked with the appropriate numbers, they match the apartment number);
• before turning off the power, be sure to unplug computer equipment and others from the sockets, the operation of which may be affected by a sudden blackout;
• determine which of the machines is responsible for the sockets;
• in emergency situations, it is necessary to cut down the machines immediately, regardless of the type of operating devices.

1. Before carrying out repair work with wiring, you need to take care of the safety of the masters. For this, a person must be on duty next to the shield, who will not allow the electricity to be turned on.
2. Upon completion of all work on the devices in the panel, restore the power supply and securely close all doors with a lock.

Preventive electrical inspection

Checking the operation of the floor board should be carried out by a specialist from the management company, in whose statement the apartment building is located, at least once a year.

Unfortunately, this rule exists only in words. In life, the master comes to the call, only after a breakdown or emergency and you want to avoid both. Or, let's say you buy an apartment and you need to assess the condition of the wiring.

You can carry out a preventive examination yourself, most importantly, follow the safety requirements.

For an independent audit of the access shield, follow these step-by-step instructions:

1. Inspection of the external state of the device.

Everything is fine if it does not have serious cracks, chips and other defects, and the lock on the door closes tightly with a key.

1. Assessment of the condition of internal devices.

The machines must be marked, and the cables and wires must be clearly and clearly signed.

1. Serviceability of contact connections.

For junctions of wires with metal, the following rules apply:

• check for rust;
• inspect the bolted connections for the presence of washers, and tighten the nut better.

After that, pay attention to the wire connections to the automatic meters.

1. Operation of switchboards.

After all contacts are checked, nuts are tightened and bolts are tightened, it is necessary to check the serviceability of automatic devices. Return voltage to the electrical panel and turn on all automatic appliances.

Further, everything is very simple. Press the test button ("test"). Devices that continue to work are faulty and need to be replaced. Before testing, you need to make sure that the contacts do not leave, otherwise the result will be unreliable.

Marking cables and wires in the electrical panel

According to safety rules and to facilitate the work of a professional electrician, the shield at the entrance has a generally accepted marking.

In the document on technical operation the basic principles are clearly stated.

1. His name should be on the box of the shield.
2. Inside is a piece of paper with a printed table. It indicates the number of sockets and sockets for chandeliers that consume electricity on the floor.
3. The shield, without fail, is accompanied by a diagram of the device and assembly.

The rules are spelled out in PTEEP:

• all wires, cables and electrical circuits common use subject to labeling;
• the name of the group circuits is applied on top of circuit breaker or on a free place in the shield (marks may contain a digital designation, the name of the room, and more);
• if inscriptions on the described devices are not possible, the information is entered in the technical data sheet.

According to GOST 23594-79:

• for marking use special tags (PVC tubes), and in their absence, PVC tape;
• tag length - 2.5 cm and above;
• inscriptions must be clearly visible and understandable;
• it is possible to mark the insulated part of the wire or cable.

Electricity distribution boards are not a toy and require a serious attitude.

It is unacceptable to break the lock in the absence of a key, bending the door or using a crowbar. In this case, it will be difficult to close it back.

It is impossible to keep the electrical panel in the public domain. In the future, this could cause serious injury to bystanders, including curious children.

In case of problems with the floor device, it is better to contact a specialist, and make a duplicate key for yourself in case of broken traffic jams or an emergency.

Good day, dear guests and readers of the Electrician's Notes website.

Just yesterday, one of the relatives asked me at his entrance. We did not postpone the replacement indefinitely, because. I already bought a meter from him, and I always carry mine with me in the car.

The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor board.

In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor board itself and its diagram.

So let's go.

I will say right away that the purpose of replacing the electric meter is that, you will agree, it has a number of advantages over accounting for electricity at one common tariff.

If you are still thinking about which counter to purchase, then I recommend reading articles on how to correctly and.

As I said above, my relative's old counter was on the landing (cage) in the floor shield.

The floor shield is designed to receive and distribute electrical energy to the apartments of consumer citizens. Also, its main purpose is to protect outgoing lines to apartments from overloads.

And now let's take a closer look at what the floor shield consists of and the scheme of its connections.

What does a floor board for 3 apartments consist of

I forgot to mention that there are 3 apartments on the landing, which means that the floor board is designed for 3 apartments and no more. This is how it looks like:

To be more precise, this floor board has the designation ShchE-3302. Let's decipher:

• ShCHE - storey shield
• 3 - has a compartment for low-voltage and low-voltage networks
• 3 - for 3 apartments
• 02 - execution of the shield scheme (I will talk about it a little lower)

The floor board of this marking consists of 3 compartments:

• introductory
• distributive
• for low-voltage and low-voltage networks

Each compartment has its own door. Viewing windows are provided for removal.

Now let's talk about each department separately.

Introductory compartment in the floor shield

The introductory section of the floor shield consists of main wires that go through special channels (interfloor voids). The electrical wiring of the main lines is made of four-wire, APV brand wire (aluminum), with a cross section of 16 sq. mm.

All three phases of the main wires (A, B and C), as well as zero (PEN), are connected to the terminal blocks without breaking the wire itself. This is clearly visible in the photograph.

From these terminal blocks, aluminum wires of the APV brand, with a cross section of 4 sq. mm, go to the distribution compartment.

Distribution compartment of the floor board

The distribution compartment of the floor board consists of a removable frame on which special strips are located for. In our case, there are electric meters of three apartments.

Also on this frame there are DIN-rails under the group lines of apartments and packet switches, which are closed by a protective panel.

Compartment for low-voltage and low-voltage networks

There is one more branch in the storey shield, which we did not consider. This section is for low-voltage and low-voltage networks. It lays telephone and intercom cables, burglar alarm lines, internet and satellite antennas. I did not take a photo of this department, because. there was no need to look there.

Floor shield scheme

The layout of the floor shield is shown below.

As I said above, the trunk wires are connected without interruption to the terminal blocks. There are 4 terminal blocks in total: phase A, B and C, as well as a PEN neutral block.

From the terminal blocks with wires of the APV brand with a cross section of 4 sq. mm, the wires go to the package switches in the following order.

• phase A and zero goes to the package apartment number 2
• phase B and zero go to the packet package of apartment No. 3
• phase C and zero go to the package of apartment No. 1

Further, from each bag, the wires go to the electric energy meter of the corresponding apartment. From the electric meter, the wires go to 3 group machines. Two machines have a rated current of 16 (A), and one - 25 (A). From these group machines, the wires go already to different junction boxes apartments.

Hello Dmitry. But there must be some lower limit, below which the supplying organization should not go. It means three-phase power supply. According to the documents, the total allocated power per house is 5 kW. The eyeliner to the house is new SIP 4a-16mm. VL is also in good condition. A heating circuit is provided for heating and three heating elements are installed in parallel with it. I don’t know the power, now until spring, and then it’s in question. But if we take a minimum of 1 kW, then 2 kW remains for life. It doesn't work for winter. Is there anything that can be done to increase the power?
In one of your articles you wrote that power limiters are not legal. And if there is a “smart” meter and it is programmed to turn off the power when the power is exceeded. As then?

Hello Dmitry.

With the TN-C system, grounding in the apartment (without upgrading to the TN-C-S system) cannot be done. It is also impossible to connect the PE contact to the N contact in the home socket (i.e., to make zeroing), because if the PEN conductor burns out anywhere before this socket (at the entrance to the apartment or the floor below), the electrical appliances cases will be energized. In this regard, two questions:
1. Why then is it allowed to zero the shields on the landing (as in your case)? Indeed, when the PEN conductor burns out somewhere before this shield (on the floors below), the same thing will happen as when it is zeroed - that is, it will be under the “residual” potential that “came” from the zeros of all apartments located above the burnout point , respectively, presenting a danger of electric shock to any person passing through and touching this shield?
2. If, nevertheless, grounding of the common shield is allowed, is it possible, as some electricians do (“having no other option with the TN-C system”), put the PE conductor of the apartment sockets on the body of the common shield? Wouldn't this be the same as if a grounding was done in a home outlet, and therefore unacceptable?

Thank you very much))) Very good site)))

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the site! The information is presented very clearly and will be useful for both beginners and professional electricians!

Interestingly, if in this panel we replace 1 machine 25A + 2 machines 16A with one machine 40A, will this not be a violation? House management will not fine?

I did this after replacing these switches and moving the meter to the apartment. After the package switch, I connected the machine to 40 (A), from it the input cable went already to the apartment switchboard where the counter and group machines were installed. But in order to do this, you need to agree on the value of the introductory machine with the power supply company. Come to them during office hours, tell them your situation. If you have little knowledge of electrics, then call an electrician with you.

Please tell me the correct name and marking of the transit 3-phase block to which the phases in the shield are connected. On the last photo on the right. I have a slightly different design in the shields (above the counters with a loop through the bolt). It is very necessary for the revision of the shields, but I can’t find it on the Internet for purchase.

Dear Admin, please tell me, according to current standards, is it necessary to hang tags indicating the purpose and cross-section of conductors, both phase and zero, in floor boards?

Valery, according to PTEEP, clause 2.4.5. Openly laid cables must be tagged, the cable tags at the beginning and end of the line must indicate the brand, voltage, section, number or name of the line.

Good afternoon!
If possible, I would like to know the answer to the question from Sergey on 01/30/2014 at 21:49…
Thanks!

Another question) The circuit of the shield is similar (only we have 2 group machines per apartment). Aluminum wiring, no PE. We are doing a partial renovation of the apartment and would like to do a partial modification of the electrics (without altering what is already there and altering the floor panel), but organizing several additional consumer groups: 1 (bathroom - washing machine + hair dryer), 2 (kitchen - built-in electric stove+ electric ignition of the gas panel) 3 Kitchen (refrigerator - socket group of the kitchen apron (microwave, blender ... kettle) and 4 - desktop computer (+ peripherals) and TV with DVD. Wiring 3x2.5 copper, without connecting PE to the shield.
It is supposed to organize a small apartment shield for ouzo and automatic machines only for these consumers.
Question: how to correctly and competently make a tap from the floor shield to the apartment? From one of the machine guns and a ground bus? or how? In this case, should the input be made with an aluminum wire, and then, in a small shield, switch to copper through the machine?

Thanks!!!

For your question, read on. I talked about the modernization of the floor shield there.

yesterday I changed the meter due to overestimated readings, someone already capitalized the shield very carelessly on their machines leaving the meter, I found a wire when it was turned off in my apartment, nothing turned off (in the evening a neighbor came, it turns out it was her kitchen outlet) on her machines there was also a wire from shutdown of which nothing turned off in her apartment (and the third neighbor did not turn off either). Only one phase of 16 kV enters the shield (for three apartments, last floor) and a PEN. Now the question remains - who has what zero sits on whose counter ?! By the way, my kitchen outlet with grounding also didn’t pass through my zero from the meter, but went directly to the common zero bus along with grounding (meaning zero from the socket and grounding) two wires going into the apartment are suitable for zero coming from my meter to the load - one exactly mine, the other should be called where he goes. The question is

going to install LED lights in the entrance and above the visor instead of a cobra in the whole house there are 6 entrances and 9 floors. The desire to turn on the timer and those and others. Tell me where the power supply of the MOS comes from, if from the shield, then it is possible to combine all the entrances into 2 groups? and manage them from one place?

good afternoon! Tell me how many outgoing machines can be put on floor boards for 3 apartments for 1 apartment? in standard project residential building with gas heating on outgoing lines for 1 apartment there are 3 automatic machines for 16A, we have a project with electric stoves and we need to install an automatic machine for 25A 220V stove 6 kW. Do I need to replace one 16A machine with 25A or can I add one 25A machine additionally?

Good afternoon!
The question arose of replacing the counter. Everything is as in the photographs, but there are no bags, although they are on the floor below. How to turn off the voltage in this case? In fact, if you hold the wire with pliers and unscrew the wires with a screwdriver, then it won’t kill you ?! And then also connect the counter back?! How to install a din-rail with your machines, so as not to remove the neighbor's machines, are they structurally installed on the same rail? If aluminum is suitable for the meter, then copper can be led from it to automatic machines, and then from each automatic machine the old aluminum wiring goes further?
If you put a bag (or an automatic machine, then how many Amperes) in front of the meter, then from it to the meter and from the meter to the machines, copper, followed by aluminum of the old wiring, is allowed to lead?

I also want to install a separate machine for the washing machine. I just don’t know how to conduct VVGng 3x2.5 into the kitchen. Electricians offer to make input along the site to the bathroom, lower it along the water / sewer risers further through the bathroom to the kitchen, is PES allowed? Are there any schemes for wiring channels in Brezhnevka?

Mira 150914 is better than 32 A for a stove, 16A for a socket, 10A for lighting, again depending on how many rooms it will be necessary to share the load

Alexey 111014, it’s practically possible, only pliers should be with insulated handles, and a dielectric screwdriver, and if you don’t have experience, it’s better not to risk it and call an electrician
You can put a din rail, you can loosen the screws on the bar and pull out the old machines,
You can lead copper from the meter, but if you are going to change the meter or de-energize it, it would be wiser to throw copper to it,
Before the counter, if it works, put 50A or 40A
It is better to lead along the corridor in the cable channel, without any toilets and bathrooms
Not PES but PUE

Good evening, tell me please, I'm interested in a question about circuit breakers. The wiring in the apartment was replaced, but so far I have not had time to change the introductory machine in the corridor to the apartment (the old one was 25A). When the stove house was working (a separate machine in apartment 40A was on it), a short circuit occurred, the machine turned off in the inlet corridor (as I understand it, it is weaker than on the stove - that’s why it bounced), I changed the introductory machine to 50A, I think now when the stove is working it will be directly kick out in the apartment at 40A. I turn on the stove, after a few minutes there is no light anywhere. I climbed into the shield, the automatic plate 40A was knocked out, I went out into the corridor - the opening automatic machine for my apartment - 50A was knocked out and the entrance to floor 63A was knocked out. why immediately 3 knocked out? Should same be only directly on plate?

And what kind of wiring do you have, maybe because of the thermal overload it cuts, and the wire on the stove heats the neighboring

What do you mean? Wires are all new VVGng, laid on a 3 * 4 stove

Look for a short circuit, and the machine must be put on the stove 32A

Same shield. The stove is gas, so a separate, non-working zero, "zero" from the shield body does not come to the apartment.

Question. Washing machine in the bathroom. We take and equalize the potentials of all the available pieces of iron - we connect the bath, all the available risers with a thick copper jumper. You can even organize a copper bar and connect each riser with a separate wire to it. Metal pipes - they are in any way in the ground and they have an absolute zero potential.
We hang the body of the car here. That is, we connect the PE sockets for the car to our ground electrode. In case of phase leaks, the machine will knock out the ouzo / automatic machine. In a very bad case (if the leak and the machine didn’t knock out anyone, it won’t kill anyone, because all the potentials are equalized by jumpers, there is no difference, but it’s not the potential that kills, and it’s the difference - the birds are sitting on high-voltage wires, and nothing to them Neighbors either.
That is, as far as I understand, we get something in the form of a TT system with a ground electrode from water and heating pipes.
But it is possible to make a potential equalization system, and a ground electrode in the form water pipes cannot be used. The question is why? I would like to hear - not because it is forbidden, but on concrete examples what it might lead to.

Serg, because now they often make tie-ins into risers from non-conductive elements. And in the event of a breakdown of the insulation on the drain, a potential may form, the difference of which with the ground can kill (and not even necessarily you - but, for example, a neighbor from below)

And I’ll add… Here you are, Serg, well done for asking. And the same neighbor from below (to consult and ask) will not do this (we are all smart). And the result will be, as in Alexey's answer, only exactly the opposite. That is, now you will be in the role of a neighbor.
Well, as a sub-option of a plastic tie-in: repairs are being made on your riser with a partial disassembly of it. That's it - there is no ground electrode - get the same difference. Needless to say, it is considered “bad taste” to warn neighbors about ongoing work.

Hot water pipes and cold water must be grounded when entering the building!

AND…? Who argues with this? Entering a building is one thing. Yes, let them be grounded at least three times: the owner of the apartment on the 3rd floor in a 9-storey building will replace his part of the riser with plastic (this is not prohibited) - “and, hello, Shishkin”: the upper floors above this owner are already without grounding this riser.

Hello. I’m a little off topic, my mother just puzzled me, decided to find an answer on the Internet and stumbled upon this site, I saw that the person is a professional, so I hope you tell me. So my mother said that in the afternoon she got a call from a neighbor on the landing, who was with the neighbor's tenants from another floor. The neighbor asked for the key to the shield, saying that the tenants from another floor want to connect the Internet to themselves ... BUT! what's with our shield? Why does a person from the 3rd floor want to connect the Internet through the shield on the 1st floor. Is there any possible scam? Please comment on the situation.

Anastasia, maybe they want to run an internet cable through your shield to their floor. Look in the article, for this there is a special compartment in the shield (for low-voltage networks and low-current cables). In general, you can ask them directly. There is no scam here.

[i] I didn’t remove the “Packet”, but when replacing group machines with modern ones and reconstructing this shield, I will definitely remove it.

And why is it necessary to do this?

if only because over time they begin to wedge and switch without dismantling it does not work, and they do not have short-circuit protection functions, by their principle it is a knife switch or a load switch

And what do the entrance machines protect? Counter?

Counter, and cable to group machines

Answer: Paul
12/19/2014 at 21:38
Pavel, it is not necessary to install a circuit breaker in front of the meter. A switching device must be installed in front of the metering device, which can be a load switch, an automatic switch or a knife switch (switch-disconnectors), the task of which is only to relieve voltage from all phases connected to the meter.
I quote paragraph PUE: 7.1.64. For the safe replacement of a meter directly connected to the network, a switching device must be provided in front of each meter to relieve voltage from all phases connected to the meter.

What shape is the key to open such a shield? Where there are group machines, I faked it with a screwdriver and that's it, and by the way, the door is always open. But the big door is a problem to open!

Alexey:
01/13/2015 at 20:09

Please contact the Housing Office.

I have 2 Soviet black machine guns and a counter according to the same scheme, everything, only there are no jet guns. I will install Neva 101 (as I understand it, it will stand on the same holes). If you change Soviet assault rifles to 3 to 16 (the third is still in reserve). Between the counter is it worth putting an automatic machine? And which? All wiring is aluminum. What section is used (gas in the house)? Can you make a comb out of aluminum? Set automatic machines for 4.5 kA? Are Indian EASY9 Schneiders very different from Bulgarian Schneiders (at a price of 2 times)?

I've been thinking for a month now, I got to the cross section of the wire. I settled on a copper 1x4 sq mm brand PUV.

Alexey:
01/20/2015 at 02:22

Between the meter and the input wire, it is better to put a 2-pole machine for 20A. To install it, you need to buy and fix a din rail on the shield (the din rail is selected according to the width of the machine or taken longer, then it is sawn off along the right size). The inspector will put a seal on the introductory machine. The wire in old apartments with aluminum wire is 2.5 sq. mm. there is no less. The comb, or rather the jumpers between the machines, can be made of aluminum wire with a cross section of 4-6 square meters. mm., but it’s better to take copper, as you want and start it from the counter to the introductory machine, make jumpers on the machines with the same wire, but I would buy a comb for 3 machines (in some stores it is cut to the desired length). Automatic machines for an apartment must be taken with characteristics B or C.

Good afternoon, Protective shields have been removed from the floor panel, the wires have twists both before and after the metering device. This is after the intrusion of an electrician from the housing office. Thank you in advance

Tell me, at what distance should the storey (general) shield be located from the apartment? Is this provided for by the PUE or does it not matter.

And the wires that are connected from the top to the shield, if the difference is which wire to insert where? We have 3 wires!

Tatyana, do you mean the wires from the group machines going to the apartment? If yes, then you need to observe the polarity when connecting them - connect the phase to the machine, and zero to the zero block. I didn’t quite understand about “3 wires” - where do they go to you?

Hello, I would like to know how you can turn off (turn on) the wired Internet through the floor shield?

Incorrect question. And what, the Internet is always through the floor shield, and is certainly connected to the network? The Internet can also be supplied with optics, then you can turn it off in the classic way - from turning out traffic jams to biting the wires. For the entire apartment…

after a fire in one of the apartments on the 4th floor, in the switchboard on the 5th floor, all the wires are covered with molten pitch (I don’t know what this material is called), in one of the apartments, since November of this year, the light (intermittent) began to flash, that is, then no, but now almost daily, electricians from the housing department will come to look, tighten the screws and that's it, time will pass everything repeats, they say call the laboratory what to do?

I am writing about an apartment on the 5th floor. Today an electrician came again, tightened the contacts, noticed that the entrance lamp was also flashing, to my proposal to clean the contacts, because the increased temperature had some effect on their surface, said that he had been working as an electrician for 4o years, closed the box and left

Is it possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the meter and from the meter to the machines?

You can, if you can then independently seal the terminal compartment in the meter. There is a possibility?

Answer: Peter: 02/13/2016 at 06:55
Only qualified personnel are allowed to perform this type of work.

I’ll clarify whether it is possible to independently replace the wires going from the bag to the meter and from the meter to the machines during the planned replacement of the meter? I replaced the meter myself (according to all the rules of Mosenergosbyt), I did not like that the wires were aluminum. I would replace them too, while waiting for a sealer .. But there are doubts that I have the right to change them. I wrote an application to the counter for unsealing, etc., but what about the wires?

the bag opens both conductors - and electrical work is carried out not under voltage. Do I have to have permission? Am I confident enough in my qualifications? If I change the wires, will I have to report to someone, like for a meter in front of Mosenergo? I'm more interested in organizational issues.

Answer: Peter: 02/15/2016 at 12:32
Peter electrical installation is energized. And by turning off the VP at your metering device, you did not de-energize the electrical installation. To do this, you need to make a commutation in the ASP. To de-energize your storey SCHUR. Therefore, you continue to work under voltage at your own peril and risk.
Yes, Peter, you must have an access group and qualifications as an electrician. You can, on your own conscience, poke around in your apartment, this is your property and you can dispose of the electrical installations in it as you wish. But the Floor Shield Accounted Distribution is not your property. And if you make any mistakes during the period of any work without having, for example, the necessary skill or knowledge when connecting electrical appliances, this can end badly. Both for you and for your neighbors. Don't forget about it.

Hello.
In the floor shield there is no load disconnection to the meter (neither an automatic machine, nor a bag).
Is it possible to restart the counter in this case?
There is a suspicion that the counter "brains hung" BARS-1.113.
Until you give a good load, he does not want to count energy.
Everything is bad with electricians in the housing office.

Yuri, it is unlikely that this will solve the problem. But nevertheless, if there are no switching devices in front of the meter (and, otherwise this is a violation), then you can de-energize the main riser for a short time, although you need to order it in advance from the company that serves you by electrician.

Good day, please tell me if the outgoing wires to the packet box (we also plan to change it to 50a) should be replaced with 6mm copper (a large power load from the apartment) and from the packet box through the same 6mm bring it into the apartment and assemble a shield with machine guns there, you can Is it possible to do this? We leave the old CO-I466 counter.

Good time of the day!
I got a job in an energy sales company for the installation of metering devices and would like to ask.
We are not given the keys to the interfloor shields, such keys should only be in the zhek, the key masters refuse to do it from the existing one, is it possible to buy a similar blank and modify it with a needle file, or can you still find a good master key maker, the key is basically simple and a sample on hands have

Vladimir, you have nothing to do in these shields without the consent of the owner

I know that the counters in the floor panel are located with an inverted letter P. And how should the automatic machines be located according to the rules if they are not in the line? There are 4 apartments on the floor. There is a suspicion that the ingenious neighbor's family connected my RCD to 25A for themselves, and I got 16A. This was not even resorting to reinstalling them, they simply reconnected the wires. ((When the machine was triggered, out of habit, I looked at other machines. But a lot of time passed after I was interested in my machines, I could be mistaken.

Where does such knowledge about P upside down come from? And what, in fact, is the difference - P straight, or P upside down, if they are there or this, or that, but four?
No matter how they are placed, it is not difficult to trace with skill and understanding. But not with your fingers!

Elena, hello. To be honest, I didn’t quite understand you, namely, about the counters installed with the “inverted letter P”. It is better to send me a photo by mail, or better to the Forum (link to it in the top menu of the site), and we will discuss all the points there. Thanks.

We are talking about the location of the apartment meters “inverted with the letter P”, i.e. the count was conducted from the upper left counter to the upper right through the bottom (upper left 1kv, lower left 2kv, lower right 3kv, upper right 4kv). Such an arrangement was adopted in the USSR just so that the residents would not get confused and not check by the method of shutdowns and shutdowns to whom which counters belong, and even more so, they would not climb the shield. ???
In the distribution window, too, in a certain order (only what, if they are not in line?) The levers of the machines were located (for example, for temporarily disconnecting from the network in order to change the chandelier), the wiring of the residents should not have been of interest.
After replacing the machines, I was satisfied for a long time to the distribution window did not fit. The other day, at night, from turning on a chandelier of 180 kW, electricity went out for half an apartment. From old memory, I looked into the distribution window - all four levers showed the working condition. And the neighbors (according to my old memory of the location of their machines), just one of the 4 levers worked. It turned out that by location, these are now my machines. But my memory can take me!
I thought, perhaps, you know the location of the machines according to the rules developed back in the USSR, if they are not in the same line ... Oops ...

where to find switching diagrams of cam pack switches. needed to connect the welding machine MSS 1902

Roman, what specific type, brand, model ..., or "in general"? Then there are many options.

Elena, where did you see these “rules” and when? The USSR has been gone for 25 years, during which time a lot could have changed in your RSC. Yes, and to know where you need your machines not according to the old and incomprehensible "rules", but specifically, even signing them with a marker after checking. Then the memory will fail. Well, deal with the power - 180 kW is a bit much.

Hello, on Saturday I changed the meter in the apartment, installed an ESO 711, in two days it wound up 12 kW, despite the fact that I usually do not spend more than 80 kW per month. on Thursday a representative of the PRUE will come to seal the meter.
The question is - is the meter defective or connected incorrectly ????

I’ll add a light flashing green, there were readings on the counter, but I don’t remember roofing felts 1 kW roofing felts 10))

So, you consumed either 2 or 11 kW. Somehow figure it out, guessing and helping in such a situation is very difficult.

maybe connected wrong? although 4 contacts are there to confuse (

Dmitry, good afternoon.

1. Rather Betar ESO-111, not ESO-711.
2. There really is nothing to confuse in a single-phase meter, either it will count, or there will be a short circuit. In your case, he counted a certain amount of electricity, which means it is most likely connected correctly.
3. As an option, and most likely it is - the old meter greatly underestimated the power consumption. For what reason did you replace it - by prescription?
4. As an option, self-propelled. But for two days 12 (kW) is a bit too much. Here the inspector will come to seal - ask him and he will check the error of the meter and will definitely give an answer.
5. Are you writing off the evidence correctly?!

meter SO-E711, with a digital display, I live in Kazakhstan, the manufacturer SAIMAT, on self-propelled it is unlikely that the light bulb (3200imp / kWh) blinks quite rarely and most likely 10-11 kW on the meter was already this and annoying

In the passport of the meter, the value was always written in kWh after state verification and acceptance, didn’t you look?

Well, in general, I pulled out this meter and changed it in the store I took it to a new one and set it on Tuesday at 15:00, today Thursday at 12:00 it already had 11 kW, i.e. approximately 5.5-6 kW / day. In short, the result of replacing the counter is zero.
The apartment (one-room) has a refrigerator, nothing was washed these days, half of the housekeeper's light bulbs, the computer also works almost constantly, a microwave oven a couple of times, an electric kettle a couple of times, one person lives.
The meter was sealed today.
The couple somehow turns out too much (
There shouldn’t be any kind of electronic self-propelled counter, I didn’t find any extraneous connections in the shield to my machines and wiring, there are no sockets in the walls adjacent to neighboring apartments either
CAN MY WIRING GIVE AN EXCESSIVE LOAD???

Dmitry, it means that your old counter greatly underestimated the readings. Everything turns out right. Refrigerator and PC, as you say, a constant load. Let's take a rounded view that together they consume 200 (W) or 0.2 (kW), maybe a little more, maybe a little less. You need to look at their specific characteristics or measure the current with clamps. So for 1 hour the counter will count 0.2 (kWh). For a day it will be already 4.8 (kWh). Plus lighting, microwave, etc. So you get 5-6 (kWh) per day.

Yes, I already thought so too, figured out the load, the computer is powerful there, of course, it doesn’t work 24 hours a day, but I think the power supply is 600-700 watts there, because a person works with computer graphics, since I don’t live in an apartment myself, but I rent it in I can’t accurately determine the load on consumers, and the tenant can also confuse something. Thank you all for participating

1- it was written not once - the sensitivity zone of the SE shifted to the left by about an order of magnitude or more. If the wheeled one did not see the TV in standby mode, the rest is similar, then your electronic one, see your passport, will also see the scanty current in terms of the consumer. And there are a lot of such devices, which seem to be turned off, but still consuming, in the house and they eat everything, eat, eat like a moth ...
2- yesterday I turned on the dual-chamber refrigerator ElZhi through a device that shows both current and voltage, and consumption. energy, from 8-00 yesterday to 12-30 today, 1.8 kWh of energy has dripped, let it be 1.6 kWh from 8 to 8, multiply by 30 and get.
3- walls - hardly. You would either be "currently" or heated somewhere, and the SE would not be silent.

Good afternoon. According to the diagram, it’s not understood. What is it from the neutral wire to the machines. Is 40A written above it? And what is it on the RSH 10A diagram. THANK YOU FOR THE ANSWER.

Automatic machines 40 A for electric stoves, 25A sockets, 16 lighting. The outermost wire on the left and right groups and the right one in the middle - like a ground on the stove.
The socket is 10 amperes - service, was in the PSC, three-pin, it's just that everything is clumsily drawn. Take it on faith.

it is drawn that two automata for 16 and one for 25 are indicated in brackets above. and 40 amperes above the zero output. interestingly drawn

As they could, they drew. There is an original metal plate from the same RSH, painted exactly like that. Well, the artist was not an electrician, what to do?

Good afternoon! In the floor boards of the railway. there are no protective panels on the apartment machines. Tell me what material they can be made of (it will be problematic from metal).

Durable and non-combustible - textolite, getinaks.

Please tell us, what is the point of attaching two apartments to one bolt on the zero bus, and the third to a separate one? To save space? This moment is even reflected in the diagram.

If you mount separately, there will be no problems. Are there a lot of absurdities in this wide world? Here, at least the wires are not charred along with the screw.

I bow to all the specialists. My problem is that an electrician called at the request of Mosenergosbyt, for replacement of the account. 1985 SO-50, installed NEVu. But the data from it very badly "got" into the viewing window of the electric shield (flattering area on 4 sq. 5-floor (Khrushch). I was so upset that refused to install, wrote in the act, in the apartment, he fastened the old one and did not seal it. I saw it later
How to be? no filling??
Please, answer quickly, because you have to go to him and a woman"circle", they, easily.
Thanks.

Svetlana, of course, you were stupid by refusing to install the new Neva launcher. Firstly: No one will seal the old PU for you, since all the terms of its operation have expired (16 years + another 16 if there was verification). Secondly: it’s not your problem that the readings are not visible, the shield is usually opened and the readings are written off either by the residents themselves or by authorized specialists (I don’t know about you, it’s different everywhere). You have one way out - as soon as possible inform the company that seals the PU (meters). But only to the one with whom you have concluded an agreement, her phone number is on the receipt for payment of electricity, or in your management company (apparently this is Mosenergosbyt). And inform that you intend to replace the old PU with a new one, but since you removed the seal (although, in principle, your PU is considered unusable, and you were most likely charged for electricity according to the average or standard) and tearfully ask them to install a new one. They will install the PU for you and seal it themselves. If this is not done, you will be charged a huge fine for not accounting, believe me - this is really not a joke. Explain the situation, because you still have an act in your hands stating that it was not you who violated the seal. In general, the master should have initially outlined the whole situation for you. But I have not yet seen this, to refuse the installation due to the fact that the numbers are not visible, it's just unprecedented stupidity.

Why is it impossible to attach re-conductors from the apartment to the shield body along with zero ones.

Good day. I was going to replace the old soviet plugs with circuit breakers. I have a five storey brick house(Khrushchev) 68 years of construction, four apartments per floor. On the electrical panel of the landing, the plugs are divided into two rows of eight plugs. For each apartment there are four traffic jams, two upper and two lower.
I have two upper plugs - rooms and sockets of these rooms, two lower plugs - an entrance hall, a bathroom, and a kitchen with a socket. Any of the two plugs of any row turns off everything and the rooms and sockets of the same rooms. Here's how to determine which machine is 16A and which is 25A, so that later you can replace it with switches with the appropriate ratings. I am writing at length to fully describe the situation.

Good afternoon!
Unfortunately, I joined the community late.
AB-25 assault rifles or the like were installed in the floor shields, and
they were fastened with two screws to the rear panel and there could not be DIN rails. In Russia, the TN35 rail was introduced by the national standard GOST R IEC 60715-2003.

Alexander. post from 03/31/2017 at 23:48
Question to you. And where is the metering device (meter) between these "traffic jams", or ...?

My extreme left are two top and two bottom, as well as a packet switch at the bottom of the extreme left, everything is in the photo. Below are four counters in a separate compartment, and there is also a compartment for low-current currents, and there is no access to both compartments, they are locked.

Alexander, first of all, you need to look at the sections of outgoing cables or wires, depending on what you have laid from the shield to the apartment. And already knowing the cross-sections, select the correct value of the machine. , for example, using the same caliper.

my 5 cents.
actually the question is if anyone knows anything about this, a five-story building with 3 apartments per floor, my possessions begin on the other side of the shield and I want to make an input 3x6 vvg, I marked the intended hole for the wire with a cross (so as not to ditch the wall and not to enter the wire through door frame, as all the neighbors did), is it possible to drill there, will I get on the track? as I suppose, the depth of the shield is 12cm, and the thickness of the wall is 15-17 and, in principle, there should not be wires, there is no wiring detector.
thanks.

Vasya, we did this in one of the panel houses. After all, the place where the main wires are laid and their entrance to the interfloor channels is clearly visible, and behind the shield itself nothing has been laid or immured into the walls. At least it shouldn't, because wires are laid in the shield open way directly on the shield.

What device can be used to determine whether the shield body is grounded or zeroed?

Dear author, you can ask a question. We have a two-storey building with three entrances, three apartments per floor.
Apparently, the time has come to replace the floor shields, but I would not want to see this huge whopper of standard iron shields on the floor. Is it allowed to use ordinary shields, plastic ones like ABB,?

Alexander! Did you read carefully?
... The old single-phase induction meter SO-I466, which he wanted to replace with a newer SOE-55, was on his landing in the floor shield.
In this article, I will dwell in more detail not on replacing the meter, but on the floor board itself and its diagram ... (c)

Key words - "he wanted"!!! and the last sentence, right?

The quality of all meters is suitable, but not all electricians have suitable screwdrivers.

And most importantly, brains.

I wanted to place a fiber-optic interface converter into an Ethernet interface in the low-current section of the floor board. But for this you need a power supply of 220 (12 volts is possible). How to correctly transfer power from the power section of the floor board, from your counter to the low-current one? And in general, is it possible to do this according to the rules?

Vladislav, probably, according to the rules it is impossible. I, too, once thought, thought, thought ... and then I installed a 2-pole 2A circuit breaker in a plastic box in the low-current section of the floor switchboard in the vestibule to protect and safely replace the diode lamp for lighting the vestibule.

I have some telephone boxes in this section with a bunch of wires going to other floors. Telephone operators periodically visit and delve into these boxes, but they do not complain about my automatic machine.

Why is it impossible and what should all these IT people do? And so be it - they pull calmly from the riser without asking anyone, and then zeros and ones do not converge on the group and apartment SEs. In our house, when moving to OSMD, they found a couple of illegal IT-cable immigrants, they were supposedly allowed by the housing office.

Surfactant, I don’t know for sure, maybe formally it’s impossible. We have in panel houses there are channels for telephone and radio lines, only they are often clogged with garbage. Telephone operators also violate, do not want to clean the channels and climb into the 380V compartment with their wires to go from floor to floor.
So if they ever tell me about my machine gun, I'll point them to their phone lines going next to the riser.
And people sometimes put sockets in a low-voltage compartment to power any IT rubbish.

Yes, such retreats are darkness. It is both possible and impossible to hang telephones and metal lines of radio and telephone networks on supports, nevertheless they hang and fight with them, it all depends on the degree of filling the glass - whether the interested parties agree or not. This was not asked when scooping, and everything hung in a row. But if you do not allow to hang something else on the power line supports, each operator will start planting their own supports??? And in the RSC they put up, knowing perfectly well the conditions of the game - you give me a wow, I wow for you.

And why did they put a 25A machine in this shield?

Alexander, for more powerful consumers, for example, the same electric stoves, only less power than it was supposed to (5.6-8.0 kW) with the corresponding machine 40 (A), which is indicated on the diagram under an asterisk.

So it was in skyscrapers with electric stoves - 40 A per stove, 16 and 10 for sockets and light. Sometimes 16 and 16, sho outfits got.

Hello! Please, help! On the 5th floor, we have 3 apartments per floor and on the site there are old meters with a spinning disk. I think there are aluminum wires everywhere. I want to put automata on 25 amp markings so that each room is independent, and automatons on 16 amp lights. RCD 40 amps. Do I need to clarify something with the management company in advance or is it all within the framework of the guest and I can be calm? The husband says it’s possible, but grandfather, you don’t need only 1 automatic machine of 16 amperes, otherwise everything will burn down at the neighbors and on the site.

Why do you need 25 amps in sockets, and as much as 16 amperes in lighting ??? Will the welder and spotlights be installed? For sockets 16, for light and 10 with a head enough, UZO-25A
And what the neighbors burn down is only the opinion of the grandfather, no more.

I came home, the light is not on, and a private trader is working in the shield on the stairs, called by the neighbors during the repair of the apartment. She asked why the light was not on, he said that he accidentally touched a rotten wire, and it fell off. Before that, there were no problems with the shield. A minute later, the light turned on. But the anxiety remained. What to do and how to check if everything is in order on my side of the counter.

Natalia, unfortunately, this happens in old shields, which for years (or maybe decades) did not know normal maintenance - as long as no one touched the old wires, everything seemed to work, but if you accidentally touched it, something could fall off.
For example, randomly located wires prevented this private trader from doing his work, and he decided to move them a little to the side, and one wire came off.
Whether he had the right to poke around in this shield is another topic. Check for seals on your meter. If the wire was accidentally touched, it fell off, then it was screwed into place, then this is not scary, you can call the ZhEKovsky electrician to check everything. Worse, if this private trader accidentally broke off not only a rotten wire, but also some kind of rotten seal on your meter. In this case, you need to quickly go to the appropriate office and write a statement so that you are not accused of breaking the seal.

Find a QUALIFIED AND RESPONSIBLE electrician. Alas, remotely, except for the flood, it is unlikely that anything will help.

Lounger: Thank you so much for your reply. I just don’t understand how the iron wire could rot, unless they are eternal. I have a new counter. Everything else was changed for everyone in the house in 2000. Thanks again.

Natalia, as an option, there could be a loose contact in the nut from the highway or some other junction. When working in a shield, an electrician could accidentally help him come off with a slight movement of his hands. The second option, he could simply mistakenly turn off your apartment, and in order not to look stupid in your eyes, he came up with a story with a rotten wire. I don't think that if it was made in 2000 overhaul there could be rotten wires. In any case, the mains and branches from them were changed. Although the rotten wires could already be after the meter, going, for example, to apartments, because the inputs to the apartments were probably not changed ?! In general, it doesn’t matter, the main thing is that he restored your nutrition! It remains for you, as recommended by Lounger, just to check for a seal on the meter.

The photo is not so hot, but the work is decent, some corners are worth something. Clear, accessible, understandable. I would have given for pie.

And the electrician will leave after Chuchi for Quichu, there are no papers. Either work under a paper contract, or agree in advance and advance payment. They work in the hope that only students will pay later, because they were not burned.

Hello. We decided to change the machines for an apartment. The electrician turned off the old machines, which are located in a separate place ... And the new machines are now right where the counters are .. under the same door.
We have some. I look at all the machines are as expected, but we have it differently. Tell me if this is normal?

Elena, there is nothing wrong with that, he just placed all the machines along with the counter on one DIN rail.

Here, a month and a half ago, one of my customers asked if I had a solution in order to somehow completely lock the floor shields. And it so happened that at about the same time I was making such locks on the floor shield of a sponsored familiar mother, whom I also.

The topic of how to lock the floor shields was raised in my post about. But there I didn’t specifically describe anything, but mentioned it in passing. Now it's time to write a post!

So, locking the floor shields is a MUST in order to restrict access to them by unauthorized persons. Namely - all sorts of providers, local drunkards or thieves. On the forums, people periodically frighten others with the fact that if you put some expensive introductory RCD or UZM-51m into the floor shield, then everything will be stolen. It seems that now such cases are rare, but in the 90s - yeah, they stole. The people still smeared the machine guns with paint so that they would lose their presentation.

In new buildings, people are usually more cultured, and UERM-type gizmos are used as floor shields. There are separate compartments for each apartment, which are locked with a small postal padlock. Of course, such a lock is hidden with a thick screwdriver or crowbar, so it will only stop local violators.

But in the shields of houses old building regular locks have long been broken (because everything has been running since the 90s, and then no one even thought about locking the shields), but there are no new ones.

So this sponsored friend asked me the task: NECESSARY! Because muddy people are hanging around the porch! And I just bought a small grinder, which I recently did, and I just wanted to try it out not only on the counter.

I remember how I made locks on my shields. Then I hit the road to Leroy, found there corners of suitable thickness, from which I made the ears. This time I repeated everything: again I drove to Leroy ... but somehow I went too far with the thickness of the corners =))

And then - he did not notice how quickly he put it all on the shields. Here, a grinder saved me sooooo much, because this metal was cut to her instantly. If I had grabbed a hacksaw again in the old fashioned way, I would have been sweating all over there like a fool. And with a grinder you can cut and quickly grind the edges ...

As a result, after a couple of hours of leisurely work, it turned out like this:

There was no need for a special culture, it was necessary to do it quickly and brutally (apparently, hehe, this influenced the choice of metal thickness). I didn’t fool around with the shield door and just cut the grooves there with a grinder.

From the inside of the shield door we insert an eyelet for the lock:

And from the inside, we tighten it to a stupor. There are headless screws on the outside, so you can’t just unscrew it. It is clear that all this will not stand against a grinder or a bolt cutter - but it should not.

Since headless bolts were not threaded along the entire length, but only at the end of the bolt, then with reverse side successfully sawn off from the same corner of the piece of iron, which gave the necessary thickness. And in order not to fool around with a bunch of ears (it was necessary to lock all the shield compartments, of which there are three), I just made two pairs of ears on three shield doors. Locks all these doors hold each other, and it is not possible to open one of them.

That's all! Maybe someone like this solution will also fit.