The scheme of laying electricity in your house. Do-it-yourself wiring in the house - design and installation rules

20.06.2020

Do you want to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit, or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don't have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and scheme

One-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you do not need to be an engineer, because you do not need an intricate linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing "by hand". The wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly scatter the cable around the apartment, and calculate its approximate number, as well as determine the load on each future line.

wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, consider what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one loaded line, for example, in the kitchen, it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to work without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate section. And if, on the same line (for example, to the kitchen), there are several consumers (and it will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave margin of "strength" of the cable, that is, select the desired cross section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.

In order not to bother with the calculations, follow one simple rule. - For socket lines use a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm. For all lighting 1.5 sq. mm, and for hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. mm - and everything will be fine with you!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power measured in Watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, zero, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (grounded), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and protective automation works only using grounding .

To replace the wiring, it is best to use the VVG-ng cable. Of course, you can use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft must be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller strobes, and it is possible to push the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only cable according to GOST! For example, an excellent cable is Gost's VVG ng. This is a very important point in preparing for the wiring replacement! You can save on automation or sockets (you can always change them), but do not save on cable - take a good one.

markup

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located, the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after repair is 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and put a mark every 7 cm (socket size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for kindergartens, kindergartens and schools where sockets and switches are installed at a height not less than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially at home, you can do as you like. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.

Preparing for chipping

Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as cable routing under baseboards or boxes.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a stretch or suspended ceiling, if they are not planned to be done, then the ceiling is to be shredded. And since, a monolith of ceilings shuffling is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster on the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We highly do not recommend chasing the ceiling on our own, since it is necessary to know the technology of proper chasing so that later the whole house does not collapse someday.

In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and a new one is pulled in its place.

With a crown for concrete at 70mm or 68mm (nozzle on a puncher), holes for socket boxes are drilled. With a wall chaser or grinder, strobes are cut for laying the cable. The grooves in the walls must be strictly vertical rather than horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the shield are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugations is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed, the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation according to GOST! Save on corrugation, if you do not have drywall and wood (or other flammable materials) - then corrugation is not needed!

Noisy works

When you start pounding walls, don't forget about the law. Make noise with a perforator apartment buildings It is possible only at a strictly defined time, each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan it is necessary to obtain the permission of the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they begin to hammer in response. It is better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Shtroblenie

Before you start chasing, it is highly desirable that the walls and ceilings are plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since all socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw a monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will ditch, so as not to hurt communications, old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't determine where the old wiring goes, call an electrician, or just disable it in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For the convenience of work, make yourself a temporary carrying (extension cord).

The hole for the sockets is grooved to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, after which, with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown, drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference. After that, chasing with a crown will go much faster, you can say - it will go like clockwork. When hitting the rebar, it is best to use another crown, in extreme cases, you can knock it down with a spatula. It is better to use a puncher more help (do not forget about the neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Strobe for cable laying, go from the socket to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the strobe down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these cases, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder, with a diamond blade for stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, put on a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to isolate dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

It is not difficult to lay the cable on the floor, it is enough to grab it to the floor in any way so that it does not pop up when the screed is made. Usually the cable is laid along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall), so that later you know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay the cable under the doorways! For cable laying on the floor, it is better to do through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a chance of damaging the cable when installing interior thresholds.

Laying the cable in the strobe is also not particularly difficult. You can fix the cable in the strobe using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (gypsum plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use it for mounting socket boxes. But before smearing them with strobes, it is necessary to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fixed in the strobe and does not stick out anywhere, the strobes can be covered with ordinary plaster mix, this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Soldering (or junction boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today, professional electricians will tell you that it is not necessary to install junction boxes in modern apartments! They can play a cruel joke with your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing off, neighbors flooded, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It is easy to refuse junction boxes - do all the switching in the sockets! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Usually, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is necessary to branch the outlet lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.

Electrical panel installation

The most budget option is to install all the circuit breakers in the stairwell in a common shield, where your old circuit breakers and counter are already standing. To do this, it is necessary to bring all the cables to the access shield. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead shield, it's up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetic, the invoice is easier to mount. All lines from the apartment go to the shield, and already one thick cable goes from it to the access shield, the cross section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example, VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable section. According to the rules, it is impossible to insert more than two lines into one machine, if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today, there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. Most necessary condition- this is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short circuit currents (ordinary single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (protection against current leakage).

RCDs are best installed on the line of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. It is not necessary to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! One common RCD is installed only with the goal of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a malfunction in case of a leak, + the whole apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, on lighting or street lines, RCDs are not installed.

Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: a thermal relay (protection against cable heating), lightning protection, a stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), fire alarm etc.

Shield Assembly

One of the most crucial moments is the assembly of the shield. If you use a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be of any color except blue and yellow), all the rest (zero N blue, PEN earth yellow-green) are inserted into their tires. When using RCDs or difavtomatov (automatic and RCD "in one bottle"), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marking N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers from wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the shield, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and zeros by automatic machines with a cable with a section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fall into the clamp, or it is bad to hold on to it.

Final installation. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after a clean finish (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good installation is a good contact!

Most of the outlets in your apartment are walk-through, that is, a cable goes through them with a loop to each subsequent outlet. In order to avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example, IEK), they have a very bad (to put it mildly) clamp, and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, stretch all the connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumped out of the clamp, then you clamped it badly or the clamp turned out to be defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that LeGrande products and Schneider have the best clamps in sockets.

To make the frames fit evenly and tightly, install a group of sockets or switches in level, butt-to-butt, and screw them to the sockets with small self-tapping screws from two opposite sides close to the wall. Then screw the spacers inside the outlet (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or self-tapping screws!

Track the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use too long self-tapping screws, which can touch the wires.

At each stage of the repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finish.

Modern human life absolutely cannot be comfortable without electricity. When it is absent, it seems that life has stopped, because any household appliance or electric tool requires connection to the mains. Sometimes without electricity it will not even be possible to cook food, not to mention the normal lighting of the home. Therefore, if you are thinking of building, then the wiring diagram in a private house should be a priority issue that should be given special attention. It is necessary to think over and calculate everything to the smallest detail so that not the slightest mistake or inaccuracy in laying and connecting the power supply network will lead to a breakdown of household appliances in the future, or, even worse, to fire and fire.

What is the need for a schema?

The wiring diagram in a private house is a drawing on which all the main power supply units are applied:

An introductory line, which is carried out by a branch from the main power line to the house itself.
Location of the switchboard.
Protective devices and electricity meter.
Places for installing junction boxes, switches and sockets in rooms and premises.
Wiring paths from junction boxes to switching devices.
Places for installing elements of the lighting network (chandeliers, sconces, lamps).

By the time you do the wiring in the house, it is advisable to clearly define where the main household appliances will be located - a refrigerator, air conditioning, a washing machine, a water heater, a dishwasher. This is necessary in order to immediately mount the sockets next to the equipment, and not later stretch it through the entire carrying room.

If your building belongs to a typical one, which was erected by a construction company (this is how entire cottage villages are being built now), then you should be provided with a building project and a wiring diagram. In the case when the construction is carried out independently, for each house they develop their own personal scheme. But in both versions, the main purposes of the circuit are the same:

If you have a ready-made schematic drawing, you can make a list of materials that will be needed to complete the wiring in the house. This will help save cash. That is, having a list in hand, you can go through different outlets, calmly decide, choose the most high-quality and suitable for the price of electrical goods. You will not buy anything superfluous and at the same time save yourself from the situation when the installation is already being done, and some materials are not enough, and you urgently run to the first store you come across to buy them at any price.
The wiring diagram will make it possible to determine the maximum load of each electrical unit, which will allow you to correctly select the wire cross-section, calculate the total power, select the necessary protective devices and input cable.
Also, the scheme will help you competently and rationally plan the sequence of work.

Paperwork

Be prepared for the fact that electrical wiring in a private house will also require your nerves, because in order to obtain a permit to perform work, you will need:

Contact the organization that has a power line on its balance sheet, from which it is planned to connect the input. They must issue technical conditions (TU) for this connection.
The next will be an organization or a commercial firm, which, according to the issued specifications, will draw up a project.
Again, the energy supply organization will need to agree on the project, and write an application for connection (on the main line, this must be done by their electricians).
The made input line must be tested by a special electrical laboratory, after which a protocol is issued stating that the input has passed the test and is suitable for operation.
Now the input cable is brought into the switchboard and connected to the input of the electricity meter, which must be sealed by representatives of the energy sales. After the meter, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in the house, or you can invite specialists, you will no longer need any other organizations.
The last thing left for you is to conclude an agreement with the energy supply organization for the supply of electricity from their side, and for the timely payment of consumed kilowatt-hours from your side.

Entry planning

The most important thing that distinguishes an electrician in an apartment and in a private house is the input. In multi-storey buildings, the input comes to the switchboard, and from there the wiring to the apartments is already going on. And for a private house, it is necessary to carry out layering from the main line passing nearby. The reliability, quality and safety of power supply depends on how competently and correctly you do this. There are two ways:

Installation of air inlet with cable or insulated wire.
Underground cable entry.

Before you draw an introductory line for a private house, it is very important to think over and plan it so that it is resistant to strong winds, and also does not carry the risk of electric shock to a person in rainy, snowy or wet weather.

Air entry

Such air entry involves pulling a wire or cable from the nearest support of the main power line to the housing construction.

I would like to warn you right away that air input will be rational if the distance from the support to the house is less than 20 m. In the case when the span is more than 20 m, you will need to install another additional support, which may be on the territory of your site. Such a measure is necessary in order to reduce the mechanical load on the wire. When the span is very large, there is a possibility that the wire may break under the influence strong wind or under its own weight.

How to make an air entry?

It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall of housing construction and insert a piece of metal pipe or a special plastic corrugation (the diameter of the hole and pipe will depend on the cross section of the lead wire).
A bracket with an insulator installed on it is fixed on the wall outside the house.
Now it is necessary to stretch the steel cable between two insulators (one is on the bracket, the second is on the traverse of the support from which the layers are made).
The lead wire or cable on the pole is connected to the line wires. Then it is laid along the cable to the house, where it is pulled through the hole made into the building. Every 0.5-0.6 m, it is desirable to fix the wire to the stretched steel cable with plastic or metal clamps.

That's all, the input cable went into the building, where it will already be wound up in the switchboard. As you can see, nothing complicated, but some nuances should be taken into account here:

It is very important to ensure sufficient tension on the steel cable.
The wire should be attached to the cable freely, without tension.
The distance from the ground to the wire should not be less than 3.5 m.
The cable and the lead wire attached to it along its entire length should not touch any outbuildings, trees or tall shrubs.
The place where the wire enters directly into the house must be sealed. After it is stretched into the pipe, all the remaining space must be filled with mounting foam. You can apply another option - tightly tamp mineral wool from non-combustible material.

The best option for air entry to the house is the SIP brand wire (self-supporting insulated wire). Firstly, its insulation is made of materials that are suitable for operation in conditions of sunlight and precipitation, and also withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Secondly, under the insulating layer, in addition to aluminum conductors, there is a steel cable. That is, when installing such a wire, there is no need to stretch a separate carrier cable.

If a single-phase voltage (220 V) is required for private housing construction, then a two-wire wire is required. In the case when a three-phase voltage (380 V) is needed, a four-core wire is required. The minimum cross section of SIP wires is 16 mm 2.

How the installation of air input of electricity is carried out, you can see in this video:

underground input

Laying an introductory cable in the ground has a number of advantages compared to the air method:

Reliability increases due to the fact that the cable is not exposed to sudden temperature changes, precipitation, strong winds.
The style and architectural design of the site has a complete look, that is, they are not spoiled by a stretched cable with a fixed wire or additional support. As a rule, it is for this reason that all fashionable cottages and country houses have an underground entrance.
If it's a country house Vacation home, in which they live only in the summer, and in the winter the housing construction is empty, there is a possibility that hooligans or vandals will cut out and steal the air inlet. With underground laying, this situation is unlikely.
In the event of a short circuit and an electric arc during an underground entry, there is practically no chance that property and people may be affected. And with air input, the fire that occurred can spread to buildings. So high fire safety when laying cables in the ground is a very important advantage, especially for houses made of wood.

But not everything is so perfect, the soil is also quite an aggressive environment. The chemical composition of the soil over time can cause corrosion processes, which will render the cable sheath unusable. At the same time, the soil itself can sag and swell, move and freeze. More will have an impact ground water, rodents and microorganisms, as well as pressure from the roots big trees. Therefore, if you decide to bring electricity to the house underground, take care to protect the cable, lay it in a plastic or metal pipe.

Well, the main disadvantage of underground input is earthworks. Firstly, they must be coordinated with a bunch of various organizations that can have something laid in this land - water, gas or sewer pipes; heating mains; main cable power lines; telephone lines. Secondly, to lay the cable in the ground, you will need to dig a trench, and this is an additional (and decent) cost. If you do it yourself, spend a lot of time and effort. If you hire someone to carry out earthworks, spend money in terms of money.

In order to better understand the scope of work, we recommend watching the following video:

So before you do the wiring in the house, first weigh the pros and cons, consider the advantages and disadvantages, choose the appropriate input option for yourself. And when you are finished with the external power supply, you can safely proceed to the installation of the internal one.

Load calculation

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a private house requires preliminary work with the head, that is, mental work, namely, you need to calculate what kind of load your home electrical network will have. To make it easier for you, break all electricity consumers into groups:

Lighting elements.
Kitchen appliances (refrigerator, extractor hood, bread maker, electric stove and oven, electric kettle and coffee maker, multicooker and microwave, etc.).
Low-power household appliances and electrical appliances (computer, TV, music center, etc.).
Conditioners.
Electric heating.
Bathroom equipment (water heater, hair dryer and washing machine).
Power tools that are used in utility rooms (hammer drill, electric drill, electric lawn mower, pump, etc.).

Sum up the power of all appliances. Correct the resulting figure by multiplying by 0.7 (this is the generally accepted coefficient for switching on devices at the same time). Please note that the power of each group should not exceed 4.5 kW. Based on the calculated load, determine the cross section and brand of wires. Wiring in a private house is carried out with copper wires. For hidden gasket choose the brands VVGng, PUNP, VVG, for open laying - PUGVP, PUGNP. Wiring made in a private house with such wires will have a decent service life (about 10 years), minimal losses and safe operation.

Distribution board

Normatively, the place where the shield can be installed is not standardized in any way. The only condition is that it must be located no closer than 1 m from the pipelines (meaning any pipes - gas, water, sewer).

In which room it is better to mount the shield, it is also not specified anywhere. Many people prefer to install it in some utility rooms, where it will be convenient to perform switching, or located at the entrance to the house. In any case, try to follow these simple rules:

This room should not be a fire hazard (such as a boiler room). It is forbidden to store gas cylinders and flammable substances near the switchboard.
It is necessary that the room where the shield is located is dry, that is, it is undesirable to install it next to the bathroom.
There must be free access to the shield, do not arrange a warehouse from the room where it is located.

In the shield itself are mounted:

electricity meter;
introductory machine, it is responsible for the power supply of the whole house;
several automata for connecting outgoing pantographs according to their breakdown into groups;
residual current device (RCD), which is paired with an introductory machine.

The shield can be installed in a niche specially made for it, or simply hung on a wall surface.

If the house is huge on several floors with baths, saunas, garages, then one shield is not enough. In such cases, one introductory shield is mounted and additional ones on each floor.

Layout of internal power supply

There are two ways to conduct electrical wiring in a private house - open and hidden. Let's briefly consider each of them separately.

open wiring

The open method of laying wires is also called outdoor, most often used in wooden houses.

Wires can be laid:

in special plastic boxes;
on porcelain insulators using a special cable (the so-called retro style).

The diagram should show which route you are going to route the cables and mark the places where the fixing elements (insulators) will be installed.

For open wiring, special outdoor switching devices (sockets, switches) are used.

Hidden wiring

If the structure is concrete, with many technological voids, a hidden method of laying wires is used. It is more difficult, since you first need to make special grooves in the walls, called strobes, into which the wire or cable will be laid. And after that, the laid conductors will still have to be fixed with alabaster or gypsum mortar.

You will also need indoor switches and sockets. Before installing them, holes are made in the walls, socket boxes are also fixed in them with the help of a solution, and only then switching devices are mounted.

Do-it-yourself hidden wiring is easy to do, the only thing that can cause difficulties, take a lot of time and effort is making strobes and holes.

Everything about electrical installation work, is regulated by the Code of Electrical Installation Rules (PUE). Those who are seriously involved in the installation of electrical wiring, it is useful to get acquainted at your leisure with this book. Here we will give the most basic and important points that you should definitely consider before you do the wiring in the house with your own hands:

All junction boxes, sockets and switches should be easily accessible (not covered with wallpaper, not hidden under plasterboard, not cluttered with bulky furniture that cannot be moved).
The grounding conductor must be attached to household appliances with a bolted connection.
The switches are mounted at a height of 60-150 cm from the floor level, the wires are brought to them from top to bottom.
All wiring connections should be made in junction boxes. Connecting nodes must be securely insulated, it is forbidden to connect copper conductors with aluminum.
Sockets are mounted at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. The distance between sockets and gas stoves, pipes, heating radiators should not be less than 50 cm.
Electrical wiring wires should not touch the metal building structures of the building (this is especially true for hidden wiring, be sure to consider this point when you lay wires in strobes).
The number of sockets per room is taken into account at the rate of 1 switching device per 6 m 2 of area. The exception is the kitchen, where you can mount as many sockets as you need to connect all household appliances.
Horizontal wiring is carried out no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling and floor. Vertically, the wires are placed at a distance of 10 cm from door and window openings. The wires of the electrical network should not be brought closer than 40 cm to the gas pipes.

We hope that all this conversation was not in vain. Installation of external and internal power supply of your home, you will definitely start by drawing up a diagram. Think with the whole family where and what kind of equipment you want to place, put everything on paper, draw all the switching devices and wiring paths. This will make it much easier for you to calculate the amount. necessary materials. Then it remains only to transfer your scheme from paper to real walls and do the assembly work.

02.01.2020

Wiring design in a private house involves taking into account a number of factors related both to the features of the arrangement of internal living spaces and to the method of supply power cable. Unlike typical multi-apartment housing, where non-combustible materials predominate, in this situation building elements are most often made on the basis of wood and other flammable structures. That is why, before carrying out installation work in suburban buildings, special attention is paid to safe laying methods for electrical wiring and fully complying with the basic provisions of the existing PUE.

Possible wiring options

Stages of work on the installation of electrical wiring

- this is the final stage of a whole complex of works, which includes not only the design of the system, but also such important stages as:

The choice of the method of laying the electrical cable for a given type of power supply (220 or 380 Volts).
Determining the total power for which the wiring should be designed, as well as drawing up a load distribution scheme for individual consumer groups.
Before starting installation work, it is important to decide on the method of entering the power cable into the house, after which it is necessary to draw detailed diagram installation of electrical wiring on the plan of a residential building.

Each of these points needs to be considered in more detail. However, you should first familiarize yourself with the basic provisions of the PUE regarding the installation of electrical wiring in houses located outside the city.

Installation rules according to PUE

requirements PUE-7, chapter 2.1. "Wiring" the following provisions are stipulated and regulated regarding the wiring in a private house:

Electrical Installation Code (Seventh Edition)

Input method (according to overhead line or by underground cable), as well as parameters that determine the distance from the pole outlet to the house and the height of the SIP cable pull (read more below).
The rules also stipulate the choice of the type of wire used to distribute power lines throughout the premises and the standard set of electrical installation products (junction boxes, switches, sockets, etc.).
In addition, they contain instructions on the procedure for choosing power switching, protective and accounting equipment (switchboard, electric meter and AB machines).

The PUE rules also stipulate such important issues as compliance with safety measures during electrical wiring.

These and other basic wiring rules will be discussed in detail in this article.

Which padding method to choose

It is known that according to the method of laying electrical wiring indoors, it is divided into two types: hidden and open. The first of them is organized in the thickness of the walls, for which special grooves are prepared in them, called strobes.

Selection of cable cross-section by power and current

According to these features, each of the listed varieties should be considered separately. The characteristics of the proposed types of wires and cables are as follows.

Standard wire VVG

When arranging wiring, the wiring diagram of which involves the installation of junction boxes, it is most reasonable to choose a VVG cable that normally operates at voltages up to 1000 volts. The number of cores for products of this class varies from one to five, which is quite enough for laying three-phase electrical wiring in a private house (if selected).

Wire products VVG are available in one of the following options:

in the form of executions with a flat or round shape of the cores;
the same, but with a triangular or square section.

The advantages of this class of cable traditionally include a wide operating temperature range (from -50 °C to +50 °C). In addition, the wire is characterized by high strength and resistance to moisture. One of the following icons is usually added to the main designation of this product:

"P", indicating that the cable is flat;
"Z", indicating that a reinforcing rubber mixture is poured between the insulating sheath and the outer braid;
"NG"- a symbol that the insulation of the product does not spread combustion.

Additional Information: In all cables of the VVG brand, with the exception of those marked "З", the space between the outer sheath and the insulation is not filled with anything.

Four-core cable VVG

The color of the wires in the cable is distributed as follows. The outer sheath of the VVG product is traditionally black, and the color marking of the insulation of the conductive cores is selected in accordance with the current standards (see photo on the left). For the installation of the lighting part, a cable with a core cross section of 1.5 mm2 is used, and when arranging a power supply in private houses, this figure increases to 6 mm2.

When choosing a specific sample of cable products, it is customary to take into account a number of technical considerations, which are as follows. According to the main provisions of the current regulatory documents (PUE, in particular), the selected type of cable must meet the following requirements:

Eliminate the possibility of ignition of the wiring.
Prevent injury to network users.
Prevent damage to household appliances connected to it.

To fulfill each of these provisions, a careful selection of cable products will be required. It is differentiated depending on on which section of the chain it is supposed to lay one or another sample. According to this principle, there are three types of cable products:

wires of the VVG-2 or VVG-5 brands, having a core cross section of up to 6 mm2 and used to connect a home input to a switchboard;
cable products called VVG-3 with a core cross section of 2.5 mm2, necessary for laying the main supply lines to power outlets;
wire products under the designation VVG-3 with a core cross section of 1.5 mm2, used for supplying power buses to switches and corresponding lighting fixtures.

Taking into account the need to lay all the listed circuits, in preparation for installation work, you will have to stock up on the necessary volumes of each of the types of cable products.

Before choosing a cable suitable for a private house, you should remember about another product under a well-known label NYM.

This wire with copper conductors is intended exclusively for laying power and lighting lines.

Three-core cable NYM

with operating voltage up to 660 volts. The number of tires of different colors on this product is quite suitable for the stated purposes (it varies from one to five). Their cross section ranges from 1.5 mm2 to 16 mm2.

Please note: A significant drawback of this wire for the home electrical network is exposure to ultraviolet radiation, which excludes the possibility of its use in areas exposed to sunlight.

In a situation where there is a choice between the two options considered, preference is usually given to the second one, as having the best performance. Since the cost of this cable is somewhat higher than that of VVG, it is wiser to use it only in especially critical areas of the laying, and in the rest to get by with a cheaper variety.

PUNP

For those who want to save money on the installation of electrical wiring with their own hands, a budget version of the wire under the name PUNP is suitable. Products of this type contain two or three copper wire strands from 1.5 to 6 mm2 in double insulation. PUNP, as a rule, is used to connect stationary illuminators and standard sockets.

Three-core cable PUNP

In terms of quality, this is not the best choice, especially when you need to lay wiring for many years. Its insulation is easily destroyed over time and crumbles under strong heat.

In addition, it is not suitable in terms of the number of cores for arranging modern three-phase networks with a grounded wire.

Drawing up a conditional scheme and plan

Wiring diagrams in a private house, which also include switchboards, are developed individually for each specific building even at the design stage. The specificity of the various connection schemes lies in the set of equipment connected to the power supply and the lighting system used in the building. Nevertheless, a number of requirements are taken as a basis, which are mandatory for all designers and users.

According to these provisions and the electrical wiring project, the house network is built according to the following typical scheme:

The first position, starting from the input, is occupied by an introductory machine, through which at the right time it is possible to de-energize the entire electrical network.
Immediately after it, a typical electric meter is installed.
Then a circuit breaker common to all lines is mounted.
And only after that, a branching into groups of dedicated consumers is organized, in the circuit of each of which a linear AB and a separate RCD are placed.

Simplified (conditional) power supply scheme for a private house

Additional information: All of the listed devices are mounted in the internal spaces of the distribution cabinet (shield).

Bus wiring is also organized here, which allows you to separate the lines of "ground" (PE) and "zero" (N). These conductors must not cross at any point and be securely insulated from one another.

Single-line diagram of the switchboard of the main switchboard

There are many examples of home wiring design software on the Internet that can help you quickly create a wiring plan for your entire building. However, such assistants should be used very carefully. Possible mistakes when running a utility program for designing electrical wiring in a house, they can lead to serious trouble.

Necessary indents when installing electrical wiring from the floor, ceiling, doors and windows

It also shows the wiring routes selected on the basis of online costing. As an example, consider the wiring diagram in a brick house, which provides the connection of all the "arsenal" of household appliances available in it.
Examples of drawing up diagrams and their varieties

First of all, let's pay attention to the fact that there are 5 types of wiring diagrams for any object:

Principal electrical.
Mounting.
Structural.
Functional.
United.

All of these varieties are related to one another to some extent. They complement each other, are performed according to similar standards and differ only in their purpose. That is why each of these types of circuit solutions needs separate consideration.

Electrical (circuit) diagrams

Principal electrical images are intended to represent the functionality and interaction of the constituent elements of the system, depicted in the sequence of their operation. They visually convey the logic of the electrical circuit in accordance with the features of the circuit drawn on a sheet of paper.

Two simple electrical circuits for power supply of a private house with a supply voltage of 220V

Important! To prepare such images, special graphic icons are used, which in most cases differ from the symbols used in the preparation of other schemes.

A sample electrical wiring diagram for a private house with a supply voltage of 380V is shown in the photo below.

Electrical circuit diagram of the supply and distribution network

This view shows how the power cable is connected to the power system. It can be seen from it that the house uses a three-phase 5-wire system containing a separate ground wire. In addition, in it legend shows such mandatory elements of electrical wiring as:

Introductory machine.
Typical electricity meter.
Linear automata for each load group (garage, kitchen, lighting, etc.).

Wiring diagrams are prepared in the form of drawings or sketches of individual elements of electrical equipment. According to them, the installation of the entire power supply system of the house is organized. In them, in the form of conditional icons, the location of individual elements is taken into account, and all electrical connections between them are displayed. It is important to know that the wiring diagrams are created on the basis of the circuit diagrams and contain all the necessary information on the system design, including the method of making electrical connections. An example of its implementation with reference to the layout of the house is given below.

Wiring diagram with reference to the layout of the house

The diagram clearly shows not only the connections between the electrical elements of the system. Here you can see the places where individual pieces of equipment are installed. In addition, according to this scheme, it is possible to obtain information on the breakdown of consumers into separate groups.

Structural and functional

This type of drawing document allows you to get a general idea of how the electrical network works with the equipment connected to it and what is included in it. The graphical representation of the elements of the electrical circuit conveys a general picture of what operations will be required to proceed to the next stages of work (connection and configuration). The reading order of the structural document is supplemented by special pointers (arrows) and explanatory inscriptions that guarantee an understanding of the essence of the scheme. Thanks to the detailed structuring of the order of operation of electrical circuits, any novice master will be able to figure it out.

A functional electrical circuit is inherently not too different from its structural counterpart. The only difference between the two documents is that the second contains more detailed description individual nodes of the chain associated with their functional purpose.

United scheme

The last of the electrical documents used in distribution and household networks is a combined diagram, which includes several types of drawings at once. It is in demand in a situation where it is necessary to designate all the important details of the circuit, emphasizing their specificity, without complicating graphic images. The type of schemes under consideration is most often compiled when arranging branched electrical networks at large residential facilities such as multi-storey mansions. Private home master such documents may be of interest only from the point of view of broadening one's horizons. Their approximate appearance is shown in the figure below:

Unified power supply scheme

Schematic representations of cable routes are also known, which boil down to transferring to the drawing a simplified procedure for wiring a line from switchboards to each individual consumer. At their core, they are similar to a wiring diagram, since with its help it is easier for workers to figure out how to organize wiring between two points.

Wiring procedure step by step

This chapter will address the question of how to properly lay wires during the entire range of electrical work. As a rule, the installation of electrical wiring begins with the preparation of the premises available in the house for its installation.

Mounting concealed wiring on video

Please note: When compiling step-by-step instructions for installation work, the chosen installation method must be taken into account: in the thickness of the walls or on their surface.

When choosing, one should be guided by the main provisions of the PUE, which stipulate the possibility of using one or another option. So, clause 7.1.39 of this document imposes restrictions on the use of open cable laying in places where food is prepared (in the kitchen, in particular). For these purposes, a bundle with conductors hidden in the thickness of the walls should be mounted in this part of the room.

In all other areas of the kitchen space, it is allowed to use the same wiring method as in all other residential premises. The exception is special rooms with high humidity air (baths, showers and the like).

Additional information: If there is an RCD protective device in the power circuit, the PUE rules allow the use of a cable with an appropriate degree of protection against climatic factors.

The general installation procedure is described by the following sequence of actions:

First, according to the prepared wiring diagram, on the walls of the rooms, the route of the cable or bundle is marked (depending on the chosen laying method).
With a hidden method, grooves are cut in the marked areas, for which either a grinder or a special tool - a wall chaser is used.
Then, segments of a wire harness or a VVG cable pre-measured along the length are laid in the strobes, the ends of which are cut in the end sections and brought out.
When sealing the junctions of wires with the terminals of electrical installation products, special insulating agents are traditionally used (tape, for example).
After the conductors are fixed in the grooves with special brackets or alabaster, you can proceed to sealing the strobe for electrical wiring.
For this, pre-prepared finishing plaster is used.

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

Wiring in a private house is done before the start finishing works. The box of the house is expelled, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

Determination of the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
. It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
Install electricity in the house.
Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
Ground loop device and its connection.
Testing the system and obtaining an act.
Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

How many phases

IN private house single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V) can be supplied. According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

Determining the total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not the rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out as a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

IN the room is coming usually two or four lines: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly something important was forgotten, or something new powerful will need to be turned on, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of automata in it is also selected by the number of groups: a separate automaton goes to each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the electrical panel is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines; it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield. The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the automatic machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the scheme is standard - RCD + automatic, counter and further division into groups. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - the protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring should be done in a private house with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-prong plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.

Determining the cross section of the cores

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the choice of the cross section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to put copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, the column "220 V" find the nearest greater value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the conductors of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color they marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electricians in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation. The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:

External - when the case sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, a mounting box is installed and walled up in it. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

Read how to connect walk-through switches (turn on / off the light from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls will then be faced sheet materials- drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

When laying, remember that internal wiring a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
all joins must be made in ;
horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.

Detailed route plan like that, which is in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the point of connection of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the cores ring among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged somewhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.

Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

Do-it-yourself wiring in the house

The electrification of residential premises is not an easy task. But if you have some knowledge and skills, learn certain rules, then you will be able to do the wiring in the house yourself.

In any case, if you do not dare to contact an electrician, the knowledge gained on our website will allow you to control the work of the called master, point out shortcomings and avoid shortcomings. As a result, this will save you time and help you avoid problems and associated waste.

Do-it-yourself wiring - basic rules

Before starting work, read the Rules for Electrical Installations (PUE), which describes the basics of working with equipment. Do-it-yourself wiring in a house requires the following conditions:

free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required;
they are mounted at the level of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
opening doors should not block access;
the cable is fed from above;
the installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electrical and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes. The power supply is from below;
the number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6m square. This rule does not apply to the kitchen, here they put sockets according to the number of household appliances. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to lower the voltage);
the cable is laid with strict observance of the vertical and horizontal (without bends and diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation);
horizontal are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of a door or window opening. Distance to gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
wiring should not come into contact with metal building structures;
special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum.

Wiring diagrams

All electrical in the house begins with the development detailed plan and schemes. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the places for installing devices and laying cables, it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances.
To simplify the wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection scheme, distributes the load and saves materials.
The wiring diagram of the house in the country is different from apartment method cable connections: in a multi-storey building - starts from the floor shield. Electricity in a private house requires connection from an air line or from an external distributor.

Current strength determination

An important point when planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross section are needed.

Current strength \u003d Total power of household appliances (W) / Mains voltage (V).
For example: eight 60W lamps, 1600W electric kettle, 350W refrigerator, 1200W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V. Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A.
Standard house consumption does not go beyond 25 amperes.

Cable sizing

An equally important task is to determine the cross section of the cables that will be used for distributing electricity. The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. Inconsistency of the cross section with the loads will cause overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and a fire.
Define right size cable can be using the table.

For example, if the calculated current strength is 16.5A, a closed wiring is planned using copper wires, then a cable of at least 2 square meters is required. mm. For 25 Amperes - 4 mm 2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.
Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact there are frequent fluctuations in current strength, a certain margin of section is needed. To determine the length of the cable, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

Near the entrance to the apartment, a lighting panel is installed, into which protective shutdown devices are mounted and wires are connected. Usually, for a network of switches and lighting, it is supposed to install an RCD at 16 A, sockets - at 20 A. The electric stove requires a more powerful installation - at 32 A and is connected separately.

Installation of electrical wiring

After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and observe safety precautions.
The first stage is markup. We mark the cable laying line with a marker. Next, we note the location of the lamps, sockets and SCHO (shutdown shield).
At the second stage, we ditch the walls, if hidden wiring is needed, or we mount open way. Holes for equipment are made with a puncher using a crown nozzle. Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond discs) or a puncher, they make cable grooves about 20 mm deep, where the wires should fit comfortably in width.

On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making I / O holes and tighten it there.
Next, a puncher makes holes in the corner of the room for cable entry through the wall. Now you can proceed directly to the installation.
First you need to install the SCHO, inside which the RCD is connected. At the ready-to-connect SCHO, there are zero terminals on top, grounding terminals on the bottom, and automatic machines between them.

Then the cable is brought inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to mount it to the distribution board. To connect the input cable to the SHO, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow color with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer). The machines are connected in series from above with a white wire jumper or a special factory-made copper bus. Now you can wire up.

Open mounting option

Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence:

According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters.
We mount distribution boxes, sockets and switches. Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and fix.
We lay the cable from sockets to the SC, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires.
From the lamps and switches to the distribution box we conduct VVG - 3 * 1.5 cable.

The cores of the wires in the junction boxes are connected by color with clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals.
VVG cable 3 * 2.5 in SCHO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wiring with a green stripe) - at the bottom. Now the finished circuit is “called” by the tester. If all is well, then we invite an electrician.

Flush wiring

In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations that fit into previously prepared strobes, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish. Socket boxes and junction boxes are installed in the niches made.
Upon completion of all work, the strobes are sealed with plaster; gypsum putty can be used to seal the wiring.

Electrical wiring in a private house

Installation of an electric cable in a private house will require special security measures, especially if the house is wooden.
Posting in such a dwelling is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used.
Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.
All connections are sealed.
Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls and ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators.
Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes, steel boxes without fail with grounding. When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing.

An additional step to improve the safety of a wooden dwelling is the installation of an RCD (differential relay) that reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Outcome

Do-it-yourself wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before conducting electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.

Each master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting a job, you will be able to appreciate the quality and you will know what you are paying for.