Often, when people hear the word "heating", people remember the heavy, rough, cast-iron batteries that were present in everyone's home during the era of the Union. The radiators warmed up for a long time, did not keep the heat in the apartment, coped with their function somehow. Now everything is different - there is an opportunity to choose among worthy alternatives. The most advanced of them is the "warm floor" system. Therefore, we learn to mount heating pipes in the floor screed.

Warmth starts from the feet

System operation

Why is laying heating pipes in the floor screed a wise decision? Isn't it easier to change batteries? Sure, it's easier, but easier doesn't mean better. The laws of physics cannot be repealed. The principles of operation of heating networks are fundamentally different. Habitual radiators produce heat, which rushes along the walls to the ceiling, heating it first of all. Then the air returns down, but already in a cooled state. Thus, the ceiling is warm, and people are cold. The principle of convection is not the best.

But the pipes for heating in the screed work differently. Heat first warms the legs, and then, cooling down, rises. The inhabitants of the house do not freeze, and with this mechanism of heat distribution they feel better.

Before installing, weigh the pros and cons

Advantages and disadvantages of technology

Before installing polypropylene pipes in a screed, familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of this heating technique, because you must be sure that you are investing resources wisely.

So, the advantages of the "warm floor":

• duration of operation (from 50 years);
• uniform heating;
• profitability (the maintenance of such heating is cheaper than the classic version);
• lack of moisture;
• ease of care;
• space saving;
• safety (children will not be injured or burned by batteries);
• maintaining normal air humidity;
• lack of environment for the appearance of bacteria;
• aesthetics.

Differences in the transfer of heat between the classic version and the "warm floor" system

There are few disadvantages, but you should be aware of them:

• reducing the height of the room;
• complexity of conducting repair work(finding pipes in a screed is a difficult task);
• the impossibility of installation in specific places, for example, on flights of stairs.

It's important to know! If there are no restrictions on mansions, then before changing the heating system in high-rise building make sure that the central system can withstand this hydraulic load.

Scheme of installation of the "warm floor" system

System installation

Work always begins with a plan, the purchase of materials, the search for tools. Underfloor heating is no exception.

The wisdom of choosing pipes

Which pipes are the most reliable for arranging heating? You are free to choose copper, but it is very expensive. It is better to focus on polymer products consisting of polyethylene and polybutylene. Such a "duet" is resistant to pressure - both external and internal: it does not cause trouble if everything is properly mounted. Polypropylene pipes should function in the floor screed, since their only drawback is their low hardness. Composite structures made of metal-plastic are no less good.

As for the installation of metal elements, in this case the risk will be unjustified. Water from highways is sometimes replete with "chemistry", and the material may not withstand such an aggressive impact - as a result, rust will appear, and then leak. Hard water is also detrimental to metal. So polymer pipes- a wise decision, and at a democratic price.

Video tutorial on selecting elements for the network

Room preparation

The installation of the network is carried out after the removal of connection points for other communications, as well as after the installation of windows and doors. The room should be freed from furniture, the old heating network should be dismantled or left if you want double heating of the room.
Permissible surface irregularities are up to 1 cm. If they are larger, the base will have to be leveled.

Task number 1 - level the floor surface

Rooms located above the cold zone (basement) must be separated with insulating panels - so that you heat the house, not the cellar.

The final stage of preparation is cleaning. An industrial vacuum cleaner will cope with such a task perfectly. It remains to ask the family not to interfere and proceed with the installation.

Intermediate stage of work

Construction installation

Work begins on the installation of a warm floor with thermal insulation. You already understood that hot air should be at the top, not at the bottom. For thermal insulation of the network, materials in the form of sheets or rolls can be used. The main thing is to make sure that there are no gaps between the joints of the heat insulator, if you see gaps, cover them with a special tape. Ideal for this task is polystyrene or basalt fiber coated with reflective foil.

How to lay pipes? The uniformity of heating is important, so use such arrangements of elements as a snake or a spiral.

The main thing when laying the network is to adhere to the same step between zigzags or turns. Step size also matters. For rooms up to 20 m², a distance of 20 cm is sufficient. If you are installing a network in large rooms, it is recommended to mount several spirals / snakes.

Laying is done in a wet or dry way. If you choose the first one - the more common one, in which the heat transfer is maximum, then you will have to install a reinforcing mesh. You are free to purchase a factory set or build a reinforcing structure on your own. The cell size depends on the step, but the side of the cell must not exceed the step distance. The fittings are fixed with clips, but if special heat insulators with bosses are used, fasteners are not needed.

A reinforcing mesh is also installed on top of the network of pipes - for safety, so that the elements do not deform under the weight of the screed. Next, the mesh is poured with a solution (gypsum, cement or other building mixture). The thickness of the screed varies between 3-7 cm.

It's important to know! Before pouring the screed, check the pipeline for leaks.

They also practice the dry method of “masking” the network.

How to hide pipes in a dry screed? Use chipboard. The technology differs only in that instead of a solution, chipboard sheets are installed on top of the structure. The technique is simple, you do not have to wait until the screed dries. However, dry laying cannot be called popular, since it has a minus - voids inhibit the heat transfer of the network.

Design form is up to you

Using pipes in a floor screed for heating is not a luxury at all, is it ?!

Video: how to hide a heating pipe in a screed

Heating is an important component of comfort and coziness in any private house or apartment, especially in regions with a harsh climate. Technologies for the construction of heating systems are constantly being improved, offering consumers more economical and convenient solutions. Installation of a warm floor involves laying the pipeline on the floor surface and pouring over the concrete screed. The space is heated by circulation through pipes in the floor. hot water from a centralized system or from a heating boiler.

In fact, there are two ways to install heating in the floor under a screed: open and hidden. Each of them has its pros and cons.

open way

At open method the pipeline runs along the perimeter of the room, connecting the radiators, which, as a rule, are placed under the window openings. In older houses, they were more often used metal pipes, in modern preference is given to plastic.

Usage plastic pipes requires a lot of fasteners, which does not always look aesthetically pleasing.

Note! In this case, collector wiring will have to be abandoned, since so many pipes are placed in open form would be virtually impossible.

Hidden way

The hidden method involves laying the pipeline under the surface of the walls or floor, and laying in the walls is used relatively rarely. Such a procedure will be unreasonably complicated: you will need to ditch the walls and install thermal insulation.

The most popular way to conceal the installation of a heating system is to lay pipes in a concrete floor screed.

A layer of waterproofing, insulation and reinforcing mesh are laid on the subfloor. The pipeline is fixed in accordance with the selected scheme, after which the structure is poured concrete mix. Since the floor is poured after the pipes have been laid, there is no need for time-consuming chasing.

Another indisputable plus is the correct principle of heat distribution. In classical heating schemes, radiators give off heat to the walls, along which it moves to the ceiling area, and only then, when it has cooled down, it enters the living area.

Here the situation is reversed. The maximum level of heat in the floor area, from where the heated air gradually rises to the ceiling, which creates more comfortable conditions for people in the room, but at the same time, the heating system arranged under the screed creates its own inconvenience.

6776 0 0

Heating pipes in the floor: economical heating or a waste of money

In this material, I want to discuss heating pipes in the floor: the pros and cons of the solution, efficiency and comfort against the background of the usual convection heating, as well as the materials used and the procedure for installing a water-heated floor. So let's get started.

What it is

The main idea of ​​the heating scheme that interests us is that the entire floor in the room is made the heating device. Of course, minus the locations of large-sized stationary furniture: it is pointless to heat the floor under the built-in or bed.

Heating is provided by heating pipes in the floor screed. They are laid in increments of 10 - 20 cm over the insulation and concreted. As a final coating, any material with a sufficiently high thermal conductivity is used - tiles, laminate or linoleum.

Underfloor heating pipes can be laid without a concrete screed, according to hardwood floor. However, I will not touch on the corresponding laying schemes in this article: they deserve a separate study.

Extruded polystyrene foam 20-50 mm thick is traditionally used as a heater under a water-heated floor. Insulation does not allow the coolant to heat the floor shared with the basement or neighboring apartments.

Advantages and disadvantages

Of course, they can be formulated only if there is some alternative. In this capacity, the usual convection heating will act - wall-mounted radiators with an open distribution of the coolant.

Pro

• Warm floor really provides tangible heat savings. Not too big - about 10 - 30%, but tangible. Heating the floor to 25-35 degrees leads to the fact that the air warms up exactly where heat is needed - directly above the floor and at a height no higher than human height.
  Under the ceiling, the temperature is the same or slightly lower. For comparison - with convection heating at the floor level it can be +18, and under the ceiling +30 C. With underfloor heating, the average temperature in the room decreases, and hence the delta of temperatures with the street;

It is the temperature difference inside and outside the house that determines the heat loss through the walls, floor and ceiling, which have to be compensated by heating.

• Underfloor heating provides incomparable comfort. Remember the old adage "keep your feet warm and your head cold"? The warm floor allows you to realize it literally. In particular, you can forget about drafts above the floor and calmly let your child play on the rug without fear of colds;
• The low temperature of the heat carrier is very advantageous when using a heat pump as a heat source. The greater the temperature difference between a low-potential source (street air, water or soil) and water in the circuit, the more electricity the device spends to produce a kilowatt of heat.

This effect is independent of the specific type or model of the heat pump and is design feature all products of this type without exception.

The heating of a modern private house depends on many factors. This includes the choice of a heating boiler, the presence of underfloor heating systems, the choice of a radiator connection scheme. But most an important factor that affects the energy efficiency of the system is the laying of various heating pipes in a private house, the choice of diameter and installation method.

An example of the arrangement of a modern boiler room, in this case using copper pipe

Types of pipes used for laying heating in a private house

Depending on the project of the heating system of a private house, the material of the pipe for connecting radiators and disconnecting the boiler room may be different. Let's look at the main options used in the work.

Steel pipes

Allocate materials from galvanized steel, based on stainless steel, from ferrous metal. The advantage of such products is high thermal conductivity, which allows you to give off heat not only to the radiators themselves, but also to the supply pipes. With the correct arrangement of the heating system, a sealed circuit is obtained, which eliminates leaks for many years.

Steel pipes in the heating system. Side connection option

From steel water and gas pipes, due to the large inner diameter, you can equip inclined heating systems, which was actively used in the last century. Such systems operate without the use of pumps. Steel is ideal for laying a system of cast iron radiators. Today, corrugated material is made on the basis of stainless steel, which are quite convenient to install.

Copper pipes

Due to the high flexibility properties, such systems are often used to equip a boiler room. To bend the pipe, it is enough to heat it to a high temperature, after which it is necessary to bend it, then cool it. Copper is capable of withstanding up to 400 MPa.

A big advantage of using copper is its resistance to temperature changes, so that the walls of the material do not collapse even when the heating circuit is completely frozen. The connection of various sections is carried out using capillary soldering, or using compression fittings. Products are characterized by high coefficient of thermal conductivity, resistance to high and low temperatures, minimal hydraulic resistance, high durability. The main thing is not to combine heating systems by connecting copper and aluminum pipes, since such contact will lead to a violation of strength common system.

An example of using a copper pipe for distributing a heating circuit

Polypropylene pipe

This material is known to all. It has been actively used for many years, easily withstands pressure up to 10 atmospheres, and is connected using fittings and transitions. In those places where it is necessary to switch to metal, a transition is used. Such pipes may well be laid on the surface, since they have an aesthetic appearance, but they can also be “packed” in a finishing floor screed, walled up in walls.

For hot water, a polypropylene pipe with metal reinforcement is used, which increases its strength when heated. Installation is carried out using special equipment, which involves heating the pipe itself and the connecting fitting or tee, turn and other elements.

Along with polypropylene, metal-plastic material is used, which is used to equip underfloor heating systems. High strength allows pumping coolant for 50 years or more. Cross-linked polypropylene is also used for underfloor heating systems.

Heating wiring in the house using a polypropylene pipe. Option to install a collector with a circulation pump on the bypass

Types and schemes for laying heating pipes

It is important to choose the right pipe laying method. Alternatively, a single-pipe and two-pipe laying system is distinguished.

With a two-pipe laying, the system has a supply and a “return”. This increases the cost of the project, but increases the efficiency of the heating system, since the cooled water directly enters the return line, where, with the help of circulation pump, is pumped back to the boiler and heated up quickly. That is, the heating boiler needs to spend less energy on heating water than heating it constantly.

Two-pipe heating system

As for the one-pipe system, here, with less investment, the consumer initially pays more. The fact is that the cooled water from the radiator enters the supply, where it deliberately dilutes the water by approximately 15-20%. Thus, the next radiator in the system will receive water at a temperature equal to 80-85 percent of the primary values.

An example of a one-pipe heating system

Attention! The very last radiator in the circuit will be significantly colder than the first one. This should be taken into account when constructing the heating circuit. Many people think that such problems can be compensated by using a circulation pump, but this is not so, since pumps can only increase the intensity of water exchange with the boiler.

It is the two-pipe heating system that is the most efficient. Now you need to figure out how to connect the radiator. There is a bottom connection, lateral, and diagonal. Of all the above methods, it is most convenient to connect the "bottom". But, such a connection is unable to 100% convert the energy of the coolant into heat for your home, since the radiator is only half warm. Maximum odds useful action has a diagonal connection, which involves chasing and laying supply pipes into the wall.

With a diagonal connection, the “supply” goes from above from the heating boiler, and the return goes from below, from where the cooled water is again supplied to the boiler. With a diagonal connection, be sure to choose a two-pipe system so that the coolant circulates faster in a closed circuit.

As for the laying methods, if the heating system changes in an already finished house, for example, in a frame house, then nothing is ditched and pipes are laid over the floor or along the walls. To do this, it is necessary to install a pipe clamp every 70 cm, so that it is important for hot heat supply, otherwise the PVC material is deformed. It is with such pipes that they often work, since their low cost and high durability can reduce the overall cost of the project.

An example of laying a heating circuit over walls by mounting pipes on clips and clamps

If the house is only being finished, the floors have not yet been filled, then it is most convenient to lay PVC pipes under the finishing screed. As a rule, it is never less than 7 cm, so with this layer of concrete you can organize a hidden laying of polypropylene heating pipes. With proper soldering of the pipe, you can eliminate the violation of tightness. The main thing is to pressurize the system before pouring the finishing screed. For this, a system with a pressure gauge is used, designed to fill the circuit with water, with the help of which pressure is created in the pipe of the order of 2-3 atmospheres. The contour is pressed and allowed to stand for about 5 hours. If during this time the pressure has not dropped, then the installation was successful.

As for the choice of the connection scheme for radiators, today the beam scheme is actively used. The beam scheme is the connection of each radiator to a central collector, which is installed in the boiler room. From the collector to the heating boiler there is a main pipe, which is often larger in diameter than the diameter of the supply pipes. Thanks to the radial connection, metal-plastic pipes or cross-linked polypropylene can be used.

Here it is not at all necessary to lay heating in the wall, as well as to observe rectangular turns. It is enough to lay them under the floor, which will facilitate installation and increase the pace of work. This scheme is considered the best for solid pipes that do not solder.

Description. Example beam scheme heating from a collector in a private house.

SNIP requirements

The general SNIP regulating ventilation and heating is registered under the number 41-01-2003. There are other rules, among which are:

• SNiP 2.04.05-91 (clause 3.58). Regulates the installation of decorative screens and grilles on radiators.
• SNiP 41-01-2003 (p. 6.5.13.). Indicates the need to install shutoff valves, except for rooms with a high probability of freezing of the coolant.
• SNiP 3.05.01-8 (clause 3.18). Regulates the slope of the heating circuit with a pipe length of more than 500 mm.
• SP 40-108-2004 (clause 3.2.1). Regulates the connection of a copper pipe to a boiler with aluminum leads.

Sealing and thermal insulation

Only metal connections have to be sealed. The fact is that when working with HDPE pipes, they are soldered, which does not require additional sealing. With regard to metal-to-metal connections, plumbing linen must be used. This is the most inexpensive way, which, together with the paste, allows you to achieve 100% tightness.

It is necessary to wind the flax in the direction of movement of the object that will be wound onto the thread so that the flax does not turn when screwing on. Instead of flax and paste, you can use fum tape, as well as other means.

An example of applying sanitary flax with paste for additional protection against leaks threaded connections

As for thermal insulation, there is a special insulation on sale, which is made to fit the diameter of the pipe. It is recommended to isolate the coolant that is supplied from the boiler to the heating radiators. This should be done especially if the pipes lie against the wall under the floor, since it is here that the maximum level of heat loss is observed. As thermal insulation material you can choose basalt wool, glass wool, polystyrene foam and other insulation.

Important! Don't save. When laying underfloor heating systems, it is definitely recommended to install the pipe on the insulation. For the central part of Russia, at least 5 cm of foam plastic is used.

Budgeting

Being at the stage of calculating the heating circuit, proceed from the fact that 1 section is selected based on 1.2 square meters of the room. Do not forget to take into account the margin, if in your room two walls are adjacent to the street, you need to add a margin of up to 30%. That is, for a room at 15 square meters, in contact with the street in which there will be a warm floor, it is recommended to install a radiator with a number of sections of at least 12.

In order to create excess intersectional pressure in the circuit, it is necessary to operate with the diameter of the supply pipe. That is, from the boiler to the main collector there must be a pipe of at least 32 millimeters in diameter. Further, a pipe of the same diameter will go to each circuit, approximately 4-5 meters for each wing. This will create excess pressure in the circuit. Next, you need to narrow down, choosing a diameter of at least 25 mm to each radiator. When lifting water to the radiator, it is necessary to narrow it up to 20 mm, inclusive.

The use of fittings when welding polypropylene pipes

More isn't always good. It is impractical to use pipes of larger diameter everywhere, since the permeability of water will be better, but its amount will increase, which will lead to heating of a larger volume of liquid. From here extra costs for heating. The rise of the coolant to the floor above is carried out through a pipe of at least 32 mm.

One radiator comes with an installation kit. These are two cranes, a plug, a Mayevsky crane, 2-3 hooks. Tees, transitions, couplings are considered individually, depending on the number of radiators in the house, their location, and the method of laying the pipe.

The norms of SNiP require the installation of radiators in an ideal geometric plane. It is necessary to set the radiator according to the level, otherwise airing will occur and the coolant will not flow further. It is necessary to install a Mayevsky crane for aluminum radiator. Aluminum, when interacting with water, releases a gas that must go outside. That is why after a couple of weeks, the pressure in the circuit may drop by 0.1-0.2 from the nominal value.

Important! Consider the nuances. A supply tap must be provided in the circuit, which is delimited from the main water supply circuit in the house by a check valve.

Using the Mayevsky tap on the radiator to vent air from the system

Try to lay polypropylene heating pipes in the floor screed only when the product has a warranty period of at least 40 years. Otherwise, the pipe must be serviceable so that you can always make repairs.

When installing a radiator, make sure that the window sill does not cover it by more than 30%. The recommended height of the radiator from the floor is 6-8 centimeters, from the radiator to the window sill no more than 10. Be sure to install taps on each heating radiator in order to be able to adjust the coolant.

Installation of valves on the radiator in order to further adjust the temperature of the coolant and the possibility of completely isolating the radiator from the system in case of repair

At the bottom of the heating circuit, water must be drained to the sewer. This is necessary in case of repair. At the top of the heating circuit there should be air vents that will allow air to escape to the outside without creating airlock. When using underfloor heating, be sure to install a separate pump on the manifold. It is installed on the supply, in the direction from the boiler to warm floor. Be sure to use taps at each connection and branch, which will facilitate future repairs.

Often the term "heating" is associated with cast iron batteries that used to be in every apartment. Such radiators long time warmed up, but kept the heat in the house for a long time, and functioned, in general, it’s not bad, the only negative is by and large it's an ugly look.

With the advent of new materials and technologies, everything has changed. Nowadays, a worthy replacement for the old heating radiators became the underfloor heating system, for which, the heating line is mounted in the floor. To date, all new buildings are equipped with such structures in the floor.

Having decided to lay the heating pipes in the floor under the screed, it is necessary to decide which type of pipes will work reliably for a long period. This decision at first glance seems quite simple, but practice shows that it depends on many factors.

We also suggest that you familiarize yourself with the article - where we will consider in detail what types there are warm floors, their pros and cons and how to install.

The principle of operation of the "warm floor"

Why is laying heating pipes in a screed called the right choice? After all, there is an easier way out - this is the replacement of batteries. Yes, this is easier to do, but it does not mean more efficient than this styling, because no one has yet repealed the laws of physics.

According to the principle of operation of the heating system are completely different. Traditional heating radiators give off heat. It then goes along the walls into the ceiling area. It turns out that it is the ceiling zone that warms up first.

After the air moves to the lower region, but here it gets already cold. Thus, the following situation is obtained - in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling it is warmer, and below the temperature is much lower. Similarly, it turns out with the convection principle.

And laying underfloor heating changes everything. The maximum heat is located at the bottom, and then, cooling down, goes to the top. This principle of heat distribution greatly increases the comfort of housing. Accordingly, such a system seems to be the most effective.

Floor heating: advantages and disadvantages

Before hiding heating pipes in a concrete screed, it is necessary to study in detail all the pros and cons that this heating system demonstrates. They should not be ignored, because this will guarantee that the finances will be invested wisely.

Consider the advantages that distinguish the underfloor heating system.

1. Long period of use.
2. Uniform heating level.
3. The system in concrete pouring in the floor is distinguished by cheaper maintenance when compared with the classic options.
4. Simple care.
5. No moisture.
6. Economical use of space.
7. Complete safety (installation of the system in a concrete screed avoids child injuries and burns from hot pipes).
8. The required humidity level is constantly maintained in the air.

There are not many disadvantages of the network under the screed, but you need to familiarize yourself with them.

1. First of all, when laying the heating main under the screed, the height of the room is reduced.
2. Pipe repairs are not as easy to carry out as in classic cases, because finding a leak in a hidden line is not easy.
3. It is not possible to carry out installation in specific places. These include a flight of stairs, etc.

IMPORTANT! These buildings in mansions are carried out without restrictions, and the apartment will require a different approach. V apartment buildings you need to make sure that the central network can cope with a large hydraulic load.

The disadvantages must be carefully studied, and one must be prepared for the fact that sooner or later the heating in the screed may leak. Do not forget that it is not easy to identify a leak on a pipe in such structures.

And after determining the place of the leak, it will not be easy to repair. Therefore, it is important to approach the work with full responsibility.

What types of materials can be used and what not

Before making a screed, you need to find out what materials the heating pipes will be most suitable for installation in the floor. There are many options - you can choose products made of copper, you can stop at such an inexpensive and practical material as plastic, which, if properly installed, will work "one hundred percent".

It is also worth paying attention to products made of metal-plastic. Which of these is better to choose? In order to answer this question, let's consider pipes from the listed materials in more detail.

Tubular products for laying in the floor must have the following properties.

1. High strength index.
2. Resistant to corrosion formations.
3. Impermeability to oxygen, which causes corrosion of steel parts of the heating network.
4. Good heat dissipation.
5. Small expansion factor.
6. Ecological harmlessness.

The listed requirements for laying in the floor under the screed fully meet the range of the following materials - polyethylene, polypropylene and metal-plastic.

Polyethylene pipes and other types of pipes that are used in the screed have pros and cons, therefore, before you hide them and make a screed, you need to study each material thoroughly.

Polypropylene pipes for laying in a coupler favorably differ in low cost. However, these products have not been widely used. The reason is that polypropylene pipes hidden in a screed have a number of significant disadvantages.

Thus, the polypropylene (pp) assortment is distinguished by an eight-diameter bend radius. When laying a polypropylene underfloor heating system, this affects the distance between adjacent main lines.

If the diameter of the polypropylene line is 15 mm, then the branches will move away from each other by 120 cm, which will have a bad effect on heating the room. It is also possible to mount a polypropylene water-heated floor only at a temperature of at least fifteen degrees. Products made of polypropylene are inexpensive and have a large number of positive characteristics.

Polyethylene pipe materials only cross-linked ones are suitable for such a task. Cross-linked polypropylene is strong, durable and resistant to high temperatures. But, in cement floor these pipes do not hold their shape well. Therefore, to fix such pipes, you need to use a large number of fasteners.

Specialists speak well of metal-plastic products. The metal-plastic pipe used in the screed serves for quite a long time.

Metal-plastic products appeared on the market not so long ago, but quickly took the lead. The special three-layer construction of these pipe-rolling materials allows a service life of up to 30 years.

The disadvantages that metal-plastic pipelines have include the relative complexity installation work at home. not difficult if you have some experience in such work.

Therefore, it is important here to know the sense of proportion when clamping. At home, laser or ultrasonic welding is not used for this assortment.

If the joint is poorly clamped, then leaks should be expected. And, if you "pinch", then the fitting will fail, and it will have to be replaced.

And here is the pipe copper enrolled in a number of impeccable leaders. It is far superior to analogues made of polyethylene. Inferior to copper is also cross-linked polypropylene and metal-plastic. In this case, there is only a huge list of positive characteristics.

Watch the video

And the disadvantage of copper products is one. That's too much high price, which becomes the reason that not everyone can afford to use a structure made of this material for laying under a screed.

Speaking about the “warm floor” system, you need to remember such material as metal. Metal tubular products in the screed, experts call it an unreasonably risky undertaking. The water in the heating network is often saturated chemicals, and metal can just not resist before this aggressive influence.

Ultimately in metal structure corrosion occurs, and hence further leakage. Hard water is also detrimental to metal.

Therefore, plastic and copper products are more practical solution for laying in the floor. Therefore, metal pipe materials are not recommended for this work.

Room preparation

Before sealing the heating pipes in the floor screed, it is necessary to bring out all the supply points of the remaining communications, and install windows and doors. It is recommended to take out pieces of furniture from the room and dismantle the old heating system, if this work not carried out in new buildings.

Irregularities on the surface are allowed within a radius of one centimeter. If their dimensions exceed these figures, then the base for heating should be leveled.

Final stage preparatory work- it's cleaning. Her before closing the structure concrete screed must be done for sure. Industrial vacuum cleaners do an excellent job with this task.

Laying "warm floor" in the screed

This option is used in the apartment and in a private house. It is even used for floor covering from wood, or under a coating such as laminate.

Filling is performed on a rough or wooden floor. They operate in these situations on the same principle.

1. Lay out the waterproofing.
2. Install insulation.
3. Lay reinforced mesh.
4. The pipeline is laid out and fixed.
5. Glue damper tape.
6. The entire structure on the floor is filled with mortar.

We carry out waterproofing

It protects against moisture ingress and to prevent wet mortar from contacting the floor. After that, it is necessary to insulate the work surface. The best option for this task is foam. The foam-derived material - penoflex - also received high marks from specialists.

A steel mesh is applied to the insulating material. It is needed to evenly distribute the load over the frozen fill. Without such reinforcement, the screed may crack.

Pipe wiring in such networks is performed in two ways.

• snail.
• snake.

The first scheme is laying in a circle from the walls to the center of the room. In such actions, sharp turns of the circulation direction are not used.

The snake goes from any wall, and then goes to another, located on the opposite side. With this design, on all pieces, the direction of movement of the liquid is changed by 180 degrees. In everyday life, the first styling option is most often used.

The contour should be fixed on the surface part. With these actions, it should be taken into account that it increases the size in length. Therefore, the fastener cannot be rigid and the pipeline must be able to slide. For such a task, plastic clips attached to the floor are effectively used. You can also install simple clamps.

It is very important not to forget to use damper tape. It is a strip of foam polymer material. It must be glued around the perimeter of the room on the wall. And the bottom edge of the tape should be drawn along the floor. This measure will help to level the increase in pouring, and will not allow the solution to stick to the walls.

Many are interested in how many centimeters the screed must cover the pipe structure. Masters say that it cannot be less than three centimeters. Its optimal value is 7 cm.

Watch the video

If you make it less than the recommended value, then the fill will simply crack. If you use too much layer, you will not get the expected temperature. And such heating in the floor will not add comfort.

When laying heating pipes, it is very important to maintain the same pitch between turns or zigzags. So, for example, for a room of 20 square meters. m, this distance is equal to twenty centimeters. In a room with a large area, it is recommended to install several spirals or snakes for heating.

Underfloor heating pipes can be hidden under wet or dry pouring. The first way is more common. Because with “dry” filling with voids, a lower density level is obtained, and because of this, heat transfer is slowed down.

It is not difficult to build such a heating structure with your own hands. The main thing is to have patience and some knowledge. If we add a little more effort to this, then the excellent result of the heating in the floor can please more than one decade.

Watch the video