How to make a floor screed in the apartment. Floor screed in the apartment: cement-sand screed technology

27.06.2020

An uneven floor is not only not the best appearance, but also a huge number of disadvantages associated with its operation. If the floor screed in the apartment is uneven, then this promises you the following in the future: complex laying of almost any floor covering, reduced service life of the coating, a problem with the installation of large-sized furniture. That is why, for now renovation in progress, a high-quality floor screed must be made. Today we will talk about different ways and try to identify the best one for a room in an apartment building.

The fact that the screed is designed to level the surface of the floor, and so everyone understands. But she also has other uses:

This draft layer significantly strengthens the concrete base (slab).
The screed is made in a continuous layer, which improves the heat and sound insulation characteristics of the room (not much, but still). There is an option to organize a screed on a layer of dense heat insulator - such a system will be very effective.
Hidden communication lines can be laid inside the screed - wiring, water and sewer pipes.
Recently, underfloor heating (water or electric) has become extremely popular. This allows you to heat the entire surface of the concrete and the coating on it. In a room with such floors, it is often not even necessary to install heating radiators, saving on heating becomes significant. Such systems are installed in the screed.
The screed helps to evenly distribute the load on the concrete base.
With it, you can raise the floor to the desired height.

Screed materials and technologies for their use

We turn to the most interesting - how and with what can you make a screed in an apartment? Let's consider all solutions, describing along the way the properties of materials and the technology of their installation.

Self-leveling compounds

One of modern solutions is the use of self-levelling mixtures. They are sold in bags of 20-30 kg. They can have a cement or gypsum base - each option has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Such a screed is mainly used in small spaces or when you need to quickly make a small layer.

The main advantage of such a floor is the speed of its device. Depending on the type of material and layer thickness, the floor can be walked on after 2-10 hours. The coating is very durable, does not dust, has high adhesion to various adhesives. The thickness of the layer varies from 5 mm to 5 cm.

Self-levelling mortars create a smooth plane under the influence of gravitational forces

Such a floor spreads when poured independently, under the influence of gravity. Ideally, he takes a horizontal level himself, and the floor turns out to be perfectly flat, but this is far from always the case, and it depends on a number of factors:

Firstly, the base must be well primed so that water does not leave the mixture too quickly.
Secondly, when the layer is not thick enough to provide the desired spreadability, and gravity resists the viscosity of the mixture.
The third reason is the most common - there is simply not enough mixture for the cultivated area. By eye, it seems that she has already filled everything, but in fact you just doused the old floor.

To prevent this from happening, the installation is necessarily done according to the lighthouses.

Don't know how beacons are installed? Read about it in the article. We tell you how to determine the level of the floor, prepare it for the installation of beacons, what types of fastening beacons exist and what is their difference, how to install.

Also worth noting is the high material consumption and higher material costs when compared by coating thickness. However, the benefits listed above outweigh this fact.

Now let's look at how such a screed is made. For work, we need the following set of tools and materials:

the mixture itself.
Power tool for kneading and nozzle (perforator, mixer, drill).
Several containers, the volume of each of which will be enough to breed a whole bag.
Tripod lighthouses.
Fiberglass for reinforcement (not used by all craftsmen).
Needle roller and spatula.
Damper tape.
Soil - better concrete contact, and a tool for its application.
Shoes with spikes for moving on an already flooded floor.

Table 1. Instructions for pouring

Steps, photo	Description
	We start by cleaning the room. First of all, with a hammer and a spatula, we beat off pieces of hardened putty and other debris from the concrete surface. We remove everything with a broom. Next, we take a construction vacuum cleaner and do a general cleaning. Advice! The better you clean the base, the stronger the self-leveling floor will be.
	We need to reduce the absorbency of the base as much as possible so that the bulk mixture does not quickly lose moisture and does not dry out. It is better to make two layers of soil.
	A damper tape around the perimeter of the room is needed in order to create a technological gap for the screed for thermal expansion. If the walls and you are plastered, then the easiest way is to nail this element with a stapler.
	If you decide to make your floor strong, spread this fiberglass over its entire surface - it will reinforce the screed.
	Next we set up beacons. Their number is not regulated, but there are recommendations. First, we put them at the lowest points of the floor, and one at the highest. To do this, you should first measure the perimeter of the room with a laser or bubble level. Secondly, we place intermediate tripods in order to transfer the desired level from a high point to a low one. Then the beacons are adjusted - the central rod is leveled so that its lower end shows us how far we will pour the floor. Advice! If you didn’t find tripods, then use ordinary dowel-screws instead - screw them in the same way, immediately determining the height, that is, the top point of the dowel should correspond to the floor level.
	At the next stage, we begin to stir the mixture and pour it on the floor. This must be done continuously so that the already poured concrete does not have time to set.
	The poured floor must be stretched with a needle roller and a spatula. It also helps to get rid of air bubbles that form in the mixture during kneading. We pour the floor and roll it out in this manner until it takes the level for each beacon.

Pour should start from the lowest point, gradually moving to the highest. So the floor is guaranteed not to grab until the end of the work. At the same time, do not try to fill more than 20-30 square meters at once. If the room is larger, then break it into sections using metal profile PN 50*40 for drywall.

Wet screed

The classic version of the screed is wet. Among other competitors, it is the most inexpensive, therefore it is common in mass construction. It's not the best for an apartment. the best option, since it is required to give a minimum of 2 cm of thickness, which is not feasible in some situations.

Advice! When we talk about the minimum layer, we mean counting from the highest point in the room. In other places, this value will be even higher.

The main advantage of this solution is the leveling of significant floor differences when minimal cost. The main disadvantages are prolongation in time, high labor intensity, and difficulties with kneading.

There are several types of liquid screeds:

1. Concrete- A popular classic. It is made from cement, water and fillers. The latter are usually sand, crushed stone, gravel. Such a screed is best suited for creating the base of the floor, since, despite all the advantages that were mentioned earlier and its strength, it is hardly possible to make the coating even. Plus, the surface of such a floor is usually very dusty. Due to the coarse filler, an appropriate layer thickness is required.

2. Cement-sand mortar. It reminds many of the first option, but there is no large filler in it. It turns out that this floor is cheaper, it is less durable, but it levels out better and can be made in a thinner layer.

3. Lightweight concrete screed. The filler is changing again - instead of crushed stone and gravel, it can be expanded clay, polystyrene, and so on. Such a screed will also not be highly durable, but it will be very warm.

Attention! Lightweight concretes are not made in conjunction with, as they will prevent the penetration of heat into the room.

- it is done on top of the subfloor in order to level it ( finishing layer no more than 15 mm thick). It consists of Portland cement, quartz sand and polymer additives. This composition gives the screed high strength and low shrinkage.

Table 2. Wet screed installation

Steps, photo	Description
	First of all, the floor surface is also prepared - cleaning, priming, etc. We have already described these steps in detail earlier, so we will not repeat them anymore. If you plan to make a sufficiently thick layer of screed, then instead of all this, the floor can be covered with a dense plastic film. You will receive excellent protection against water, plus during pouring, the concrete will not lose cement laitance, which will positively affect its strength. A damper tape is also attached around the perimeter of the room. Advice! This element can be abandoned with thin layers, but still it’s better not to do it - the material costs mere pennies, and it’s not difficult to fix it.
	If the screed is thick, then be sure to lay a steel mesh on the floor. This stage can be interchanged with the next one if you want to raise the reinforcement above the floor.
	Next, we put metal or plastic beacons. You can purchase such a profile as in the photo above, or use rectangular pipes for this - they are easier to expose and do not bend when the mixture is drawn. More attention should be devoted to this stage, since the beacons should form a single flat plane. It is they who set the evenness of the entire floor. Lighthouses are set up in different ways. The most common way is to lay them on gypsum or mortar bosses and then mure them.
	We determine the brand of concrete (usually M200) and carry out its mixing strictly according to the recipe. If you have large volumes, then use a concrete mixer, since doing this manually is very difficult.
	At the next stage, the concrete mixture is poured onto the floor and evenly distributed. For this, a rule is used that moves along the lighthouses, as if on rails. In this case, movements are made of a vibrational type, that is, from side to side, with a simultaneous pull forward. The rule does not tilt so that there is no deflection.

After completion of work, the floor is left to dry. You can start trimming it no earlier than 20 days from now. Walking is allowed the very next day.

We have described only the general procedure. In some situations, the screed can be laid on a heat insulator or combined with a finishing bulk coating.

All about the advantages and disadvantages, types, composition and process of pouring the self-leveling floor, we told in the article. Detailed step by step process instructions, helpful videos and expert advice are attached.

Semi-dry screed

Also a fairly common type of screed. The technology of its device involves the use of the same cement with sand, but in a different ratio. The material contains a small amount of moisture, so the floor dries much faster.

The speed of work is also very high. There is only one drawback - the coating is not very durable.

The workflow will be almost the same as described before, so let's just note the main points so as not to repeat.

Beacons are used removable - they are immediately removed, and the furrows are closed.
The material is initially very dense, so you can move on it with the help of special shoes with a wide footprint.
The surface of the screed can be immediately rubbed with a special machine.

Dry screed

This technology was developed by the well-known company Knauf. It is conditionally called a screed, since the process of arranging such a coating is somewhat reminiscent of working with concrete.

The floor structure is as follows:

Dry backfill - with its help, alignment occurs.
Gypsum panels are a finishing coating that provides rigidity. The panels have locks along the edges, which allows them to be connected into one whole.

Dry screed can be classified, depending on its purpose. There are the following types:

Alpha - settles on flat surfaces.
Beta - also done on a flat floor, but on top of a heat-insulating porous material.
Vega - floor on dry backfill.
Gamma - floor installation on a combined substrate.

Table 3. Dry screed installation

Photo, steps	Description
	Rectangular metal pipes are used here as lighthouses. They are set like this: 1. A strip is made of dry backfill along the entire length of the room. 2. The comb of the strip is trimmed with a spatula. 3. The pipe is laid. 4. A rule is placed on top of the edge, which must be aligned with the laser level beam. The sinking of the lighthouse is carried out by hitting the mallet according to the rule. If there is no laser level, use a bubble level.
	Further, filler is poured into the voids between the lighthouses, which, as a rule, is pulled along the lighthouses. This is done easily, since the backfill is mobile and has a small mass.
	Then gypsum sheets are placed on top. Their seams are coated with liquid nails glue. After laying, the seams are additionally reinforced with self-tapping screws. The material is cut with a jigsaw under walls and various obstacles.
	Joints should be primed, then sealed gypsum mixture so that there are no irregularities on the floor. This step is not required for every type of slab.

Due to the high cost of repairs, many people try to make repairs on their own. This has become feasible in our time, thanks to the availability of relevant information. It turns out that do-it-yourself floor screed in the apartment is quite feasible. The main thing is to have patience and desire, as well as strictly follow all the recommendations. After carefully reading this material, you can begin to perform such repair work.

Purpose of the screed

In the modern construction industry of the post-Soviet space, during the construction apartment buildings, are used reinforced concrete slabs as floor coverings. The slab has a smooth side that serves as the ceiling of one apartment and a non-smooth, defective side that serves as the floor of another apartment.

If we take modern finishing materials, then their installation requires an absolutely flat horizontal surface, with small tolerances. In this regard, it is necessary to take measures to ensure that the substandard surface becomes suitable for the subsequent arrangement of the floor. Therefore, at this stage of repair work, the question arises of how to make a floor screed in the apartment yourself.

The screed performs other very important functions. Firstly, evenly distributed on the floor, it contributes to the correct distribution of the load over the entire surface of the slab, and secondly, it improves the sound and heat insulation characteristics of the floor.

Carrying out preparatory work

You can make a floor screed in the apartment with your own hands, but first you need to decide on some nuances. First, you need to practice proper preparation working mixture. Secondly, you need to know that even floors can be made if beacons are installed before pouring. Correct screed floor in the apartment is not a problem if you buy everything necessary tools and fixtures.

For this you will need:

Water level.
Roulette and knife.
Trowel and spatula.
Brush for applying waterproofing (or roller).
Construction mixer.
Dishes with a capacity of about 30 liters.

Correct technology: stages

The following steps show how to properly screed the floor in the apartment.

They assume the following:

Prepare the base.
Calculate level differences.
Install beacons.
Prepare a solution.
Make a fill.
Allow the screed to dry.

Preparation of the base for the screed

As a rule, the side of the slab that serves as the floor is not particularly attractive. Here you can find shells or mounds, and in some places protruding fittings. In addition, there is a lot of construction debris on it that needs to be removed.

To begin with, the stove is freed from debris. The places of chips and shells, as well as cracks, are primed, and then filled with mortar. After the repaired places have dried, the slab is finally cleaned and a layer of waterproofing is applied to it. The waterproofing layer can be replaced by a thick polyethylene film.

Before that, along the entire perimeter, where the slab is joined to the walls, a special damper tape is laid. It will not only protect neighbors from liquid leakage during pouring, but will also prevent the floor from cracking during the curing of the screed.

Determination of floor level differences

A very important stage: it depends on what material is needed for the floor screed in the apartment. Measurement of floor height differences will be fundamental in determining the thickness of the future screed. First you need to find out the highest point, which will serve as the beginning for further operations.

Most high level the floor is projected onto the walls of the apartment and the level of the future screed is beaten off around the entire perimeter. To determine the differences in the center of the room, a building cord is stretched between the two walls. Having decided on the differences, you can make a decision about the material from which the screed will be made. If the difference is small, within 30 mm, then the screed can be made with a self-leveling mixture.

If the thickness of the screed is in the range of 30-50 mm, then a sand-cement mortar is suitable for this. Over 50 mm and up to 70 mm, you will have to prepare a ceramic concrete mixture. A screed with a thickness of over 70 mm is generally not feasible due to the large load on the floor. In this case, you will have to stop at the option of wooden floors.

Installation of lighthouses

To do this, 15-20 media recede from the walls and mount beacons. The distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of the rule, which will level the solution. You should not take a long rule, as this can complicate the work, due to the fact that the volumes of mortar supplied for the screed will be small.

Mixing the solution

After installing the beacons, you can decide what is needed for the floor screed in the apartment, or rather, what material. To prepare the solution, cement, sand and water are required. At the same time, the following proportions are adhered to: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand. Water is added gradually to obtain the desired density, convenient for work.

The mixture is prepared as follows:

At 30 l. containers (or any other) are preparing dry ingredients. Sand and cement are mixed without adding water. The quality of the solution as a whole depends on how well this is done. It is better to mix not by hand, but with a construction mixer, then the quality of work can be guaranteed.
After adding water to the dry solution, the mixture is again mixed to the desired density. To find out if the mixture is ready to work, it is taken by hand and squeezed in a fist. If it does not spread and does not disintegrate, then the consistency is normal.
If plasticizers are added to the finished mixture, this will only improve the mechanical characteristics of the screed. How and how much you can add such components to the solution is written on the package.
Before use, the solution must be mixed, as sand can settle to the bottom of the container, which makes it heterogeneous.

Filling the screed

This is the stage that determines how to make a floor screed in an apartment. The process of pouring the screed begins when there is a ready solution. This technological operation is started from the far corner, towards the exit. At the same time, the solution is poured out (thrown out) between two guides (beacons), after which it is equal to the trowel and tightened with the rule.

How to dry the screed

As a result of pouring, a wet screed is obtained, and now the task is how to make a dry floor screed in the apartment. Naturally, it needs to be dried, and this must be done correctly. The drying process can take about three weeks and during the drying process it needs to be moistened from time to time.

Every 2-3 days, the floor is moistened and covered with plastic wrap. At the same time, the room should be closed to exclude drafts. Such a subtle approach to the drying process is needed in order to obtain a monolithic concrete base, without cracks. With the help of this technology, the concrete screed is gaining maximum strength.

Final alignment of the screed

Finished screed requires finishing, which is performed by special ready-made mixtures. Alternatively, the floor can be made self-leveling by applying a special solution. Self-leveling floors give an ideal result on the horizontal evenness of the floor. They are the ideal base for laying parquet, laminate, linoleum, etc. If installation is to be ceramic tiles, then you can refuse to finish the screed, limiting yourself to priming the surface.

Even such a finishing material as a laminate allows certain irregularities, especially since it is mounted on a lining. As for linoleum, after laying, which you can see the slightest bumps, then the self-leveling floor is ideal.

Conclusion

After carefully reading the material of the article, we can draw the following conclusions: it is quite possible to make a screed on your own and for this you do not need to have a large number tools, as well as a wide variety of materials. Naturally, it is not possible to do this on your own and you need to take an assistant. One will prepare the solution, and the other will evenly distribute it over the prepared surface.

Another point that you should pay attention to: the screed must be poured in one go, without taking long breaks, otherwise it will not turn out to be monolithic. Even a break of one day can spoil all the work. At the junction of the "old" and "new" screed, a crack is necessarily formed.

Stop for a little, you need to be patient, desire, get sand and cement, and also purchase right tool and decide on improvised means and an assistant.

Technologies and sequence of actions for most finishing works have long been known. In view of this, many people are trying to save on paying for qualified specialists and do the finishing themselves.

This approach is quite sound, but requires thorough preparation and all the nuances of the work. About how to make a floor screed in an apartment, in what ways it can be done and what is required for this - this and much more will be discussed in this material.

Why do you need a screed and what functions does it perform

The base of the floor apartment buildings is a reinforced concrete floor, which is laid with a smooth side on the load-bearing walls. Due to this, the ceiling of the lower floor is formed.

The second side of the floor slab is not always flat, but since it forms the floor of the upper floor, building codes allow certain height differences on its surface.

The floor screed device in the apartment is aimed at eliminating significant damage to the base, height difference and floor level relative to the horizon. That is, by pouring and backfilling dry, semi-dry and wet solutions, it is created almost perfectly Smooth surface, ready for laying any floor cladding and any material.

Pouring concrete mixtures, allows you to create an almost completely flat and seamless surface

Floor screed allows you to strengthen the surface concrete slab, improve the strength characteristics and quality of the base. For apartments located on the first floors, it is especially important to use soundproof and heat-insulating materials that are laid before pouring leveling screeds.

More detailed information about the materials and can be found in the corresponding article, which affects the methods and technology of these works.

When arranging in non-residential rooms and target premises, by pouring a leveling layer, you can set a technological slope or raise the overall floor level. For example, by pouring a cement-sand mixture in the bathroom, it is possible to form a slope for water flow, which will prevent the entire apartment from flooding in the event of an unforeseen flood.

Types and methods of arrangement in residential apartments

The main methods of leveling concrete bases in apartments and houses

Concrete floors are considered to be the most suitable for repair, restoration and arrangement of additional heating systems. A reliable base is able to withstand heavy loads, which makes it reasonable to use more complex and modern methods.

To determine which floor screed is better, you should know the technical condition of the concrete slab, the operational requirements for the base and the floor covering that will be used for cladding.

To equip a flat floor, you can use the following types of screed:

Concrete or cement-sand.
Self leveling.
Dry or semi-dry.

Pouring concrete and cement-sand mortars is a traditional way of adjusting the level of floors in private houses, apartments and non-residential premises. Concrete compositions are most often used in the elimination of severe irregularities, damage to the base, the arrangement of sound and heat insulation.

Self-levelling compounds are a more modern and practical type of screed. They are used as a complex solution, they provide for the application and pouring of two different mixtures - leveling and leveling.

The first is similar to the concrete mixture and serves to eliminate deeper irregularities. The second is a finishing composition that eliminates minor differences and defects on the surface.

Dry and semi-dry methods are used to correct the level of the base, starting with differences of 3-5 cm. They are a direct alternative to traditional methods, as they put much less pressure on the concrete base. Recommended for arrangement in apartments of old houses, for laying laminate, linoleum and carpet flooring.

The sequence of preparing the old surface

The technology of work and a story about how to properly make a screed should begin with a description of the actions aimed at preparing a concrete base. Regardless of the type and type of materials used, preparatory and calculation work is carried out in a similar way.

To eliminate small damages, a cement-sand mortar is used, for deep ones, jointing is performed.

At the stage of preparing the subfloor, before the screed device, the following steps are performed:

opening of the old floor structure;
dust and debris removal;
repair and repair of damage;
determination of elevation difference;
calculation of "zero level";
hydro, sound and heat insulation of the surface;
installation of parallel guides and beacons.

Dismantling old finish, skirting boards, flooring and other floor structures, is performed using construction tools or improvised means. To dedust the surface, a construction vacuum cleaner, a broom, a mop and a dustpan are used.

If potholes, cracks and chipped slabs are found, repair work is carried out using building mixtures. To seal small depressions, a conventional cement-sand mixture is used, which is applied to the treated damage.

When eliminating deep cracks, the surface jointing method is used. To do this, perform perpendicular cuts through the crack, to a depth of 20-30 mm and a thickness of 3-5 mm. Further, the cuts and damage are re-cleaned of dust, primed in two layers and sealed with concrete.

After eliminating all the flaws, you can begin to perform settlement operations. To do this, prepare one of the instruments for measuring the level relative to the horizon, a tape measure, a pencil and a sheet of paper. As an example, we will describe the sequence of actions for a conventional bubble level.

We measure 50-100 cm from the surface of the floor slab and put a mark on the plane of the wall. Further, using the level and the mark made, we draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room.

Scheme illustrating the stages of finding the zero level and marking the surface for pouring concrete mixtures

From this line around the perimeter of the room, measure and record the distance to the floor surface. After performing the necessary actions, the smallest and largest value is selected. To a small value, add 3-5 cm and draw a similar line on the plane of the wall. This will be the so-called “zero level” or the height of the floor screed.

Further, from a large number subtract smallest value and get an approximate level of differences. You can make several calculations, but still the value obtained will be approximately, but it will make it clear which type of screed is most rational to use.

The arrangement of the waterproofing and heat-insulating layer depends on the technology of work and the materials used. performed according to basic principles and will be considered in the course of the description of the technology of work.

The main stages of work when applying concrete mix

The use of a wet screed for leveling is the most common and time-consuming method. Most often used for height differences from 5-7 cm, since the minimum thickness cement mixture should be at least 3-5 cm.

Arrangement of a concrete screed in an apartment can be done in two ways. The first involves pouring the solution directly onto the concrete floor surface. The second one involves laying waterproofing coatings, gluing a temperature tape and pouring a solution over this layer.

For apartments located on the first floor, it is recommended to use the second method, since such a floor design prevents the penetration of moisture and reduces the level of penetrating sounds.

For mixing ready-made compositions and dry components, a convenient container and an electric drill with a nozzle are used.

As a mixture, it is recommended to use ready-made formulations that are diluted with water according to the instructions. For thick-layer structures, it is recommended to reinforce the composition with fiberglass. When mixing the mixture yourself, you can use proportions such as 1 part M400 cement to 3 parts fine-grained sand.

When installing beacons, they rely on two simple rules. The distance between the wall and the first guide should be no more than 30 cm. The length of the mixture distribution tool or rule should be greater than the distance between adjacent guides.

The main stages of the floor screed device in the apartment - setting up beacons and pouring the solution

Floor screed technology will look like this:

A waterproofing coating is being laid with a 15-20 cm approach to the walls. To do this, you can use polyethylene film thicker than 100 µm. The joining of the canvases is overlapped and glued with paper tape.
Along the perimeter of the room, an expansion tape made of expanded polystyrene is glued to the height of the screed. For fixing, you can use construction tape or a stapler.
Carry out the installation of linear guides from a profile for drywall. To do this, at the height of the “zero level”, cords or copper wire are pulled. Based on the installation rules, a cement solution is laid out on the surface of the waterproofing and a ridge or an oblong slide is formed.
A drywall profile is laid on top of the ridge and pressed into the solution. The top of the profile should be flush with the stretched cord. Then repeat the same steps for other beacons. Check the guides for general compliance with the level and leave for the drying time of the fixing composition.
Proceed to mixing the required portion of the concrete solution. To do this, use a sufficient capacity and a drill with a nozzle. The solution is mixed for 3-5 minutes, after which it is left for the same time and re-mixed.
Innings concrete mix performed from the far corner of the room. When leveling, the solution is distributed over the surface with uniform zigzag movements using a metal rule.
Upon completion of work on the floor screed, the base is covered with a dense material and left for 24-35 hours. The next day, the plasterboard profile is dismantled and the resulting seams are eliminated.

During the drying process, which will last at least 21 days, it is advisable to wet the surface once a day. It is highly undesirable to violate natural processes evaporation of moisture, by airing the room and turning on electric heaters.

The process of leveling the floor of an apartment using a semi-dry mortar is almost identical to a wet screed, with the exception of preparation and work with the mixture.

Fiber is added even to semi-dry mixtures and perfectly reinforces the leveling layer

The solution for a semi-dry screed is kneaded in the same proportion - 1 to 3. If desired, the amount of fiberglass is added, at the rate of 500-600 g per 1 m3. The amount of water is determined empirically - the mixed solution should not be fluid.

To check the quality, you can use simple rules - when compressed, moisture should come out of the mixture, and the solution itself should retain its shape. Once applied to the surface, the semi-dry mix should not stick to the rule or grout, but should form a smooth layer of wet mix.

The mixture is supplied, as in the previous case, from the far corner of the room. After filling the solution, it is distributed and compacted. This can be done with an ordinary shovel - the solution is supplied in excess to certain places, slightly leveled and rammed with feet.

The compacted solution is leveled using the rule. After leveling, the surface is rubbed with a wooden grout. The process is repeated until the floor is completely leveled. Further, exactly the same recommendations are followed as for the wet method.

After backfilling and leveling dry aggregates, I perform the flooring of gypsum fiber boards

Dry floor screed is performed with the use of expanded clay with a different fraction size - 1-5 mm. To carry out these works, all the steps described above are repeated, up to the installation of guides. Next, the dry aggregate is backfilled to the “zero level”. Expanded clay should be lightly tamped and leveled along the guides.

After backfilling the area of the entire room, gypsum fiber sheets are laid. This coating is characterized by increased strength and ease of installation. Docking of the canvases occurs along the seam edge, which is smeared with special glue and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Laying sheets starts from the entrance to the room. To lay the first canvases, you should carefully place the gypsum fiber board on the embankment at a distance from the entrance, so that you can stand on it and mount the first two or three canvases. Next, the canvas is removed and further installation of the plates is carried out.

For both methods, after the work is completed, the damper tape is trimmed and a suitable floor covering is laid. As an example, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video on how to make a floor screed in an apartment.

An even, smooth, beautiful floor in the house is the dream of every owner, and basically its quality depends on the screed. Depending on the features, purpose of the room and the preferences of the owner, the floor screed can be concrete, semi-dry, dry, etc. In any case, this is a rather difficult process that requires preparation.

How to make a floor screed? Before starting work, familiarize yourself with its stages, technology and consult a specialist. The device of any screed requires, first of all, a prepared base. The preparation of the floor surface for the screed does not depend on the selected type of screed and device technology.

Important to keep the surface dry, clean and firm. For better adhesion and strengthening of the material, it is additionally necessary to prime the base.

When the surface is fully prepared, determine the zero level - this is the optimal horizontal height of the floor screed. To do this, select the upper point of the base (with a laser level) and mark it along the walls. Further, the technology of the floor screed device depends on the selected material.

Concrete screed device

The composition of the concrete screed includes river sand and cement. Thanks to modern technologies you can add other material that can affect the quality of the mixture. For example, expanded clay gives the screed lightness. Various plasticizers are also used, additives that help speed up or slow down the drying process.

Screed tool and material required for work:

water or laser level;
rule;
ruler level;
Master OK;
ruler;
putty knife;
construction mixer for mixing mortar;
screwdrivers, self-tapping screws;
aluminum profile for drywall;
cement compound.

Remove the old finishing material down to the concrete base or floor slabs. Thoroughly clean and prime the surface.

Mark with a level around the perimeter of the room. Start from the corners. Make as many intermediate marks and measurements as possible to achieve the levelness of the floor in the room.

Set up beacons, which will serve as aluminum profiles or other materials. Fix them with cement.

To level the floor, you can use plywood, placing it under the profile. You can also use self-tapping screws with plastic stoppers which are easily adjustable in height by twisting or unscrewing.

Preparation of the composition

You can buy a ready-made mixture and dilute it with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you cook it yourself, observe all proportions. As a rule, for each part of cement, 3 parts of sand and water are required. Its quantity varies, the main thing is that the consistency is similar to liquid sour cream. Prepare the mixture with the expectation of a meter of filling so that it does not dry out.

How to properly fill the floor screed and make the floor perfect?

Pour the solution to the tops of the beacons. Start with the smallest area of the room.

Level with the rule and fill. If the height difference is large, then you should use expanded clay. It will help lighten the weight of the screed and save on cement.

drying out moisten the screed with water so that cracks do not form on it. It can be covered with a film of polyethylene.

The time of final drying and acquiring the strength of the screed is 28-30 days.

Semi-dry fiber screed

Sometimes used semi-dry screed floor in the apartment, but it has more sophisticated technology. Let's look at the option using fiber fibers: the main difference is that the composition is not liquid, but semi-dry, which needs to be compacted.

Fiberglass is used instead of reinforcing mesh, the use of which has its drawbacks. During operation, the mesh rusts, peels off, cracks, etc. Application polypropylene fiber when installing a screed, it eliminates almost all the shortcomings that were noted when using steel reinforcement.

Polypropylene fiber gives the screed resistance to temperature changes, long time does not delaminate, is not erased, damage and cracks will not appear on it. Semi-dry screed with fiber can be floating, bound and unbound.

Advantages semi-dry screed using fiber:

cracks are practically not formed;
due to the plasticity of the fiber, work is greatly facilitated;
fiber practically does not ignite;
such a mixture is resistant to frost;
the positive qualities of the fiber are preserved for a long period of operation;
after 12 hours you can walk on this screed.

Preparing a mixture with fiber

To prepare the mixture, we need fiberglass, Portland cement and clean sifted sand. Substances can be added to the mixture that retain moisture and prevent rapid solidification. Thanks to this, you can work with the mixture for several hours.

Observe all proportions when preparing the mixture. An excess of cement will lead to cracks, and a lack of cement will make the screed brittle. As a rule, one part of cement and 3 parts of sand is used. Moreover, the components are taken not by weight, but by volume. This screed will not collapse for a long time.

Sequence and styling features:

The layer of such a screed should be up to 40 mm.
Thoroughly clean the surface before pouring the floor screed.
The density of the mixture should resemble wet sand.
Use beacons to achieve the exact levelness of the surface.
Apply the mixture in an even layer and level above the beacons by 1 cm, as the screed will shrink.
Tamp the leveled screed with a roller.

Technological features of dry screed

The technology of dry floor screed today has become widespread among masters. It is suitable both for the construction of new buildings and for significant repairs of old structures. Its main convenience lies in the fact that do it very quickly, a can be used after a few hours. Judging from the name, it can be understood that such a screed on the floor of the apartment is carried out with dry materials.

Advantages:

the finished coating does not need grinding;
high thermal insulation properties;
such a screed is suitable for large differences in surface height;
high strength and ability to withstand high loads;
minimum lead time;
easy installation of drywall or other finishing material on the screed;
screed is ideal for underfloor heating;
lack of wet work and heavy concrete mix;
ease of laying various communications;
Possibility of device in winter.

Milestones:

Lay a strong polyethylene film (200-250 µm thick) on the base. You can also use glassine and other vapor barrier materials. To ensure sound insulation and exclude deformation from temperature effects, leave a gap of about 1 cm over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls, which is filled with sound-proofing material.

Pour dry fine-grained material, which will ensure minimal shrinkage of the screed. the material must also have excellent flowability, high porosity, mineral composition. Here you can use expanded clay screenings, fine-grained slag, quartz sand, expanded perlite sand, etc.

If the height of the screed exceeds 60 mm, then reinforce it with an additional layer of plates.

Carefully level and compact the backfilled material.

Next, lay the sheet material and secure it with self-tapping screws (waterproof plywood, drywall, asbestos-cement boards, chipboard and other sheet material). The material must be glued together, and the seams must be puttied and sanded.

Read about how to do it - installation and installation technology sliding doors in the apartment.

Read about the technology of pouring floors - the subtleties and nuances of the pouring process are described in detail.

Cover the top of the dry screed with bituminous waterproofing, after which, after 12 hours, lay the top coat.

Screed for underfloor heating

Each technology is suitable for underfloor heating system. To keep warm, it is necessary to lay under the screed thermal insulation material . After that, use the selected floor heating option (electric, cable, water, infrared). Follow this step according to the instructions for laying the underfloor heating. Now perform a screed using any technology.

Now the screed needs time to dry, after which the top coat is laid.

Remember! Performing any work related to leveling the surface begins only after the preparation of the base. Otherwise, all your efforts will be in vain. The screed will be of poor quality and will soon require additional repairs.

Watch the video tutorial on how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands, in this case dry, as the most convenient and fastest option:

If a major renovation is planned in the apartment, instructions on how to how to make a floor screed with your own hands with a video on the topic would be extremely helpful. Leveling the floor is the most serious and responsible step in finishing it. The quality of the work performed depends on the durability and appearance of the finish coating.

What type of screed to choose?

The choice of a base for a coating of any material should be made taking into account the load on the floor, the strength of the floors and the characteristics of the premises where leveling is required. Depending on this, one of the types of screed is selected:

The slab-linked base is suitable for leveling floors in garages and in high-traffic areas.
A screed on a separating layer, or floating, provides for the presence of an insulating material between it and the ceiling. This type is chosen for rooms where waterproofing, insulation or underfloor heating systems are needed.
Compared to concrete mortar, the semi-dry screed mix has minimal shrinkage. It can be used under the same conditions as concrete mortar.
Dry screed is carried out according to the principle of using loose and fairly light materials (expanded clay, bulk floor "Knauf", etc.). The only drawback of this alignment is the impossibility of using it in rooms with high humidity.

Before starting repairs do-it-yourself floor in the apartment, you need to take care of cleaning the base from construction debris, dismantle the old screed. When redevelopment, it is best to first install partitions from gypsum boards, carry out electrical work, complete rough finish walls and ceiling. Only after the room has been prepared, you can proceed to the screed device in one of the selected ways.

How to make a screed yourself?

If one of the “wet” methods (bonded, floating) is chosen, then it should be taken into account that it takes about three weeks for concrete or cement-sand mixture to acquire full strength. Only after that it will be possible to continue work related to the installation of flooring. When choosing a semi-dry screed, the curing time is reduced to two weeks, and you can walk on a new floor base in 2-3 days.

Deciding how to make a floor screed in the apartment, many choose the dry method: leveling the bulk layer and laying the slabs is done with less effort. The technology allows you to operate such a screed immediately after installation. The application of the final coating on the base can be started after finishing work in the room without waiting for the moment when the full strength of the concrete solution is reached.

Installation of screed from DSP and concrete

Before how to make a concrete floor screed, with the associated method of performing work, the surface of the overlap should be primed to improve the adhesion of the solution. In the manufacture of a floating screed, this step is optional, but a number of other works are performed instead:

laying a waterproofing membrane (polyethylene film);
installation of a damper tape around the perimeter of the room;
laying a layer of thermal insulation (expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, isolon, etc.);
reinforcement.

Only after the base is prepared, the process of pouring the screed begins. In order for the floor to turn out to be even, you need to install beacons. Are these long slats or special hardware to be laid on mortar supports. Check the horizontality of each rail by level. Verify the correspondence of the height of the neighboring beacon by laying the spirit level on both rails at the same time. If necessary, lower the beacon by pressing it into the solution.

While the solution is setting with installed beacons, you can prepare equipment and materials for pouring the screed:

cement, sand and crushed stone for concrete;
a rule for stretching the solution;
shovel;
concrete mixer or container for manual mixing.

If the overlap is fairly even, then there is nothing easier, how to do cement screed gender. For its manufacture, you need to take 1 part of cement grade M400-M500 and 3 parts of seeded river sand. Add water as needed until a mass is obtained that will not spread on its own.

The concrete mixture is used for pouring the base with height differences of more than 5 cm. To obtain concrete for 1 part of cement, you need to take 3 parts of sand and 4 parts of crushed stone. Water is added at a ratio of approximately 0.5 parts to 1 part of the dry ingredients mixture.

A thoroughly mixed solution should be laid out in the far corner of the room and distributed using the rule, which should be based on 2 adjacent beacons. It is necessary to stretch a portion of the solution until it forms a layer whose thickness is equal to the height of the installed beacons. If they have been placed correctly and accurately, then the surface of the screed will be perfect. After the solution gets stronger within 2-3 days, the wooden slats must be removed, and the grooves should be covered with the same substance, leveling it with a trowel. Metal beacons remain in the body of the screed.

Semi-dry screed

In, how to make a semi-dry floor screed with your own hands, there are practically no differences from the traditional wet method. The difference lies in the amount of water. According to the recommended method, the finished mixture should, when squeezed in the hand, stick together into a lump that retains its shape. Water does not come out of it.

The proportions of the components are the same as for the DSP. Dry ingredients must be mixed, laid on a plywood sheet in the form of a slide with a recess on top. Gradually add water to the recess and stir the mixture until a sticky lump is obtained. For work, you can use a concrete mixer.

The setting time of such a mixture is about 45-50 minutes. Therefore, you need to quickly distribute part of the solution between the beacons by about 2/3 of the height of their installation, tamp. Apply the next layer, which must be stretched along the beacons, as with a concrete or DSP screed. During the stretching of the mixture, it is compacted.

The laid screed must be immediately sanded, rubbing with a more liquid solution. Close the finished floor with plastic wrap and dry for 7-10 days. During this time, the semi-dry mixture will become stronger and stronger, reaching the hardness of conventional DSP.

Dry floor screed

Despite the use of rather fragile materials in the installation (GKL, chipboard, GVL, plywood, etc.), the strength of such a base is practically not inferior to concrete. Dry screed can be successfully used to repair floors in a garage or lobby public building. The only limitation is the impossibility of using the dry installation method for flooring in wet rooms.

A dry screed is arranged according to the floating principle, that is, using a layer of material that isolates the backfill from walls and ceilings. If it is necessary to insulate the room, you can use various porous layers, which are also used in traditional methods of mounting the screed: mineral wool, EPPS, penoizol, etc. Foam mats are also used for laying a water-heated floor. Dry screed cake is formed as follows:

waterproofing;
damper tape;
insulation or backfill;
GVL compensating layer (only for floor with heavy load);
substrate;
actual screed of 2 layers sheet material(GKL, plywood, etc.).

Before how to dry screed the floor, plastic film must be spread on a rough base. Glue to the walls along the perimeter of the room edging tape(It can be replaced by the edges of the moisture insulation raised on the wall). Install beacons with a step of no more than 1.5 m, starting from the walls. Align the horizontal of the entire floor. After that, you can do different things:

Spread mineral wool or other porous material between the beacons. In this case, the beacon rail acts as a log, so it must be made from a bar of the desired thickness. After laying the insulation, lay out sheets of chipboard or other material on the logs, securing with self-tapping screws. The next layer of sheet material should be oriented so that the slab overlaps the junction of the lower floor elements.
Dry screed with backfill is carried out along the beacons. They need to be laid on the poured material and set horizontally in level. Bulk floor from the Knauf company, expanded clay, perlite, slag or other backfill to stretch the rule. Remove the beacons and proceed with laying the leveling sheets, starting from the entrance to the room. You can't step on the backfill. For movement, you need to lay islands of GVL fragments on it. Lay the sheets as described in paragraph 1. How to do this work yourself, the video instruction from Knauf will tell you.
If necessary, you can lay 1 layer of GVL on the backfill, cover it with a porous material and make a screed according to general principles.
If the subfloor is not on the ground, then perlite or vermiculite can be poured directly onto the floor. Lay the screed on top in 2 layers.

After the dry screed is fully installed, proceed to laying the flooring (carpet, laminate, parquet or your own version).

If the type of screed laying is chosen correctly, the necessary materials are successfully purchased and the installation technology is observed, then the base for the floor in the garage or apartment will turn out to be durable and very even. It is very easy to lay any floor material on a well-made screed with your own hands.