Phalaenopsis orchid leaves turn yellow. Orchid leaves turn yellow: causes and what to do

Orchids - fairly common indoor flower among flower growers - amateurs, it is a wonderful decoration of the house. The flower fascinates with its beauty, surprises with the variety of its shapes and colors. A room orchid is a plant with a fairly thin stem, on top of which is luxury flower.

orchid variety

In nature there are approximately 30 thousand varieties of orchids, and at home you can grow only a few beautifully flowering species.

• Phalaenopsis is the most popular species among flower growers because of its unpretentiousness in care. The petals of the flowers of this orchid are very similar to the wings of a butterfly.
• Dracula is a rather gloomy, but in its own way attractive type of orchid.
• Paphiopedilum - its flowers resemble a shoe, flower growers appreciate it for its long flowering, reaching 2 months.
• Aganisia is a houseplant that is very photophilous and does not tolerate drought. It is popular because of the voluminous inflorescence (up to 5 large flowers).
• Wanda - this type of orchid grows up to 80 cm in height, etc.

At home, the florist needs take good care of room beauty , otherwise this exotic whim begins to hurt and its leaves turn yellow. Many caring housewives of a room orchid are worried about why this is happening, but there are a lot of reasons.

Why do orchids turn yellow leaves?

It is enough to know all the reasons why the leaves turn yellow in order to prevent the death of your favorite plant.

The main causes of yellowing orchid leaves:

• natural yellowing;
• lack of light;
• plant burn;
• lack of light for orchids;
• lack or excess of nutrition.

Orchid leaves turn yellow, what to do?

First of all, the plant begins to turn yellow due to the natural shedding of leaves. If one leaf has turned yellow or dried up, and the rest are in the same state, then, as a rule, you should not worry, this means that the life cycle of this leaf has simply ended and a new one will soon form in its place.

If the sheet home flower begins to turn yellow from the tip, and not from the base, as it happens under normal conditions, which means that there is not enough light for it. It is necessary to immediately solve this problem and rearrange the orchid to another window, where the lighting is stronger or additionally illuminate with a fluorescent lamp. If this is not done, then the stem will also begin to darken, and the plant may die.

When spots appear on the leaves, this is a sure sign that the room orchid got burned. He could appear on house plant from direct exposure to the rays of the sun, from drops of water left on the plant after wetting (under the rays of the sun they “worked” like lenses), even from a fluorescent lamp if it is located low enough. The main thing is not to confuse burns with a fungus that grows throughout the leaf and begins to infect the orchid. With proper treatment, it can be saved.

If the leaves begin to turn yellow and become lethargic, then homemade Orchid not getting enough light. She is very thermophilic and loves bright light, but it must be diffused so as not to destroy the exotic beauty. To organize sufficient lighting when purchasing an orchid in a specialized store, it is necessary to specify what type it belongs to - shade-tolerant or photophilous.

Also, the reason for the yellowing of the leaves of a flower may be a lack or excess of nutrition. Perhaps the plant lacks potassium or iron, with a lack of them, the leaves turn pale and eventually die off.

Optional indoor plant fertilize only during the growth period, as a rule, 1 time in 3 weeks, purchasing specialized fertilizers for this, such as Bona Forte. It is important to feed the plant only with specialized fertilizers, feeding for others indoor plants cannot be used. When transplanting a plant into a specialized mixture, as a rule, this is done once every 2 years; it is not necessary to fertilize the flower for the first time, because it will receive all the nutrients from the substrate.

Harbingers of yellowing orchid leaves

If roughness is present on the leaves, the leaf tissue is destroyed, then you need to know that this is a harbinger - they will soon turn yellow. Need to remove the cause before the leaves turn yellow. For this you need:

Infectious diseases in orchids

Particular attention should be paid to the yellowing of the leaves due to infectious diseases. Unfortunately, quite often the orchid in the store is already affected, so you need to carefully examine the plant before buying.

Infectious diseases:

1. fungal
2. Viral
3. Bacterial

Signs of viral diseases are the appearance of light rings, ovals, yellow spots and stripes in the leaves of a flower.

The virus in a home orchid can live for quite a long time, without showing itself in any way. But stress (if you create adverse conditions) can provoke a virus and, unfortunately, it will gradually infect the plant until it is completely destroyed.

Bacterial diseases are not dangerous, but they can not always be completely cured. They manifest themselves as dark brown, black spots with a yellow rim. For treatment, it is necessary to isolate the orchid from other plants and cut spots, treating wounds with activated charcoal (if the disease is severely neglected, then the use of bactericides is necessary). With appropriate treatment, and if no new spots appear after two weeks, the orchid becomes cured.

With bacterial rot, wet dark yellow, brown spots can be seen on the leaves of a home flower. With treatment, it is impossible to delay when such spots appear, if you start it, then the plant will no longer be saved. The spots begin to actively grow and blacken. If bacterial rot is found, it is necessary to treat the place where the indoor flower stood (for example, a window sill and a window) with hydrogen peroxide. A diseased indoor flower should be kept in isolation from other plants until complete recovery.

fungal diseases received the greatest distribution among orchids, as they arise due to the lack of proper care for it. They manifest themselves in different ways, including the appearance of dark yellow spots on the leaves. Some types of fungal diseases are easily confused with a burn. Treatment for the fungus includes removing damaged areas of the leaves, treating cuts and then, after the wound has healed, the plant must be treated with a fungicide.

As it turned out, the causes of yellowing of leaves in indoor orchids are very diverse. If you follow the basic rules that this home beauty requires in the care, you can avoid the defeat of the leaves. But if this happened, then by providing a closer look at the lovely orchid, the problem will disappear. In addition to care, you need to carefully consider the plant before buying and it is advisable to purchase it from trusted sellers of indoor flowers, because there is a very high probability buy an already infected flower, which will not please with its beauty for a long time.

The orchid in its wide variety is the pride of any grower.

But caring for a beautiful and capricious plant that has moved from tropical latitudes to our window sills is not easy. Most often, you can encounter the problem of yellowing leaves.

When you don't need to worry

The most common, but at the same time quite harmless causes are the natural aging process and too narrow a flowerpot.

In the first case, only turn yellow lower leaves, and there is no need to do anything: they will dry out and separate from the trunk themselves, then they can be thrown away. The life cycle of a leaf varies from various kinds orchids - foliage renewal can occur from once a year to five years.

If in general the flower looks healthy, and the leaves turn yellow, it is possible that the old pot has become simply small for the plant, and a transplant is required. The new flowerpot should be larger by a maximum of 2 cm, otherwise the substrate will dry out worse, and waterlogging and rotting of the roots will occur.

What to do if the orchid leaves turn yellow due to watering

Sometimes the cause of yellowing is excessive attention and care of the plant, namely abundant watering. Due to the high humidity, the soil does not allow air to pass through, the roots begin to rot and stop supplying the leaves with nutrients.

The plant signals excessive watering if:

The foliage becomes yellow and soft, and this applies to both the lower and upper leaves.

The plant is covered with black spots.

Roots darken.

The flower sits loosely in the ground, scrolls and is easily removed.

In this case, you need to get the orchid out of the pot and inspect its roots. If they are not completely destroyed, then the flower is transplanted into a new substrate.

Rare cases of plant disease due to insufficient watering, so you need to make sure the reason for the yellowing of the leaves before watering the flower. To do this, several layers of soil are removed - if the substrate is dry inside, then the problem is really a lack of water. In this situation, the flower should be watered. If you encounter such a problem, despite regular watering, it is worth reconsidering the method itself. Many beginners choose the classic method using a watering can, but at the same time the water flows into the pan, and the roots do not have time to be saturated with useful substances. It is necessary to switch to watering by immersing the flowerpot in a bowl of water for half an hour.

The orchid is a finicky plant, so the leaves may begin to turn yellow due to watering with hard water. This leads to an increase in the salt content in the soil and a deterioration in the ability of the flower to absorb iron. The solution will be to transplant into a new soil and switch to a mixture of distilled and piped water in proportions of 1: 1.

Due to lack of lighting, the leaves of the orchid wither: what to do

Light-loving species such as Wanda, Cattleya or Lelia may suffer from insufficient lighting. Their leaves become yellow, sluggish and soft. In this case, the flower is placed in a more illuminated place.

When a plant is damaged infectious diseases, first of all, it must be isolated from healthy neighbors in order to avoid the spread of infection. You can return the orchid to the rest of the flowers only if the symptoms do not recur after some time after treatment.

1. Fusarium fungus

Excessive watering can cause Fusarium fungus, resulting in root rot, and the plant does not receive nutrients. The leaves of the affected flower turn yellow, curl around the edges, and darken over time. If measures are not taken in time, the orchid may die.

It is necessary to cut off diseased roots and leaves, treat the affected areas with special antifungal drugs and transplant the flower into a fresh substrate. After that, in order to avoid a new outbreak of the disease, the plant is immersed three times a day for 10 days in a solution of foundationazole 0.2%.

2. Bacterial spotting

Another dangerous disease is bacterial spotting - first the leaf begins to turn yellow, darken and soften, and then oozing ulcers appear on it. It is necessary to cut out the affected areas, and treat the cut points with a solution of iodine. If within 10 days the symptoms do not reappear, the infection has passed, and the orchid can be returned to the rest of the flowers.

3. Whitefly

4. Root mite

The reason for the deterioration of the foliage can be a lack or excess of growth stimulants and fertilizers. Firstly, with additional feeding, it is necessary to follow the recommended norms, otherwise you can overdo it and destroy the plant. Secondly, you still need to fertilize the orchid, since the flower came from a tropical climate and may not receive all the necessary substances in our conditions.

Often, sellers overfeed plants with growth stimulants and fertilizers to give it a more lush and attractive appearance. However, visible symptoms may not appear until many months later. In this case, it is necessary to put the plant in a bright place and refuse complementary foods for 15 days. Then you can start using nitrogen-containing fertilizers no more than once every two weeks and in a solution of no more than 50%.

In case of accidental use of a high concentration of the drug, rinse the root system under running water. You can start feeding the plant only after six weeks.

With a sudden change in environmental conditions, such as temperature, lighting or location, the plant can become stressed. The stressful state affects the appearance of the flower - the leaves wither, become soft and turn yellow. Allow the orchid to acclimate to the new atmosphere and create optimal conditions for healthy flower growth.

What a chagrin your favorite orchid delivers if the leaves suddenly begin to turn yellow and fall off. Sometimes, the reason lies in excessive zeal for care. We will look into this now.

Natural aging process

species orchids paphiopedipum, catleya, over time, the lower leaves are shed, and new ones appear to replace them. It is not worth worrying about the fact that they turned yellow and fell off. Because this is a natural aging process.

Upper leaves may turn yellow after flowering. This is also normal.

In the case of a natural renewal of the leaves, one should not touch the flower, but wait until they are completely dry and fall off on their own.

Problems due to improper watering and lighting

Flower leaves may turn yellow due to improper watering. The plant reacts sharply to uneven watering and is exposed to bacterial and fungal diseases.

Over watering

The roots of the plant do not receive sufficient access to oxygen. From here, their decay occurs, nutrients do not enter the leaves. They start to turn yellow.

• The main mistake overflow is the orientation to the surface layer of the substrate. The appearance of a dry crust may appear after 2 days, and the bottom layer remains moist for a week.
• Another mistake- keep the pot completely filled with water. Like a cut bouquet.

You can identify excessive moisture by the following signs:

• Not only the lower leaves change color, but also other leaves.
• The green cover loses elasticity.
• The appearance of black spots on a yellowed leaf.
• The trunk is covered with dark spots at the attachment point of the leaf.
• Darkened roots or generally invisible through transparent walls.
• The flower sits loosely in the pot.

How to fix?

• When such signs appear, the flower is urgently reanimated.
• To do this, you need to pull the plant out of the pot.
• Check out the roots.
• Carry out processing and transplant into another flowerpot.

Insufficient watering

• Similar symptoms occur with insufficient watering:
• Sluggish leaves.
• Dry at the end of a yellowed leaf.

How to fix?

• Until you decide that the flower is dry, do not rush to water.
• To determine the dryness of the substrate, you need to lower the wooden stick inside the pot (in the case of an opaque flowerpot), hold for several minutes. Then pull out and look at appearance. If the stick is wet, then the reason is different.
• If it is transparent, then you can see that there is no condensation on the walls, and the roots are light green in color. Then the plant can be watered and observed for 7 days. If there is no improvement, you need to pull the flower out of the pot, inspect the roots and transplant.

Lighting

• Incorrectly selected lighting can lead to diseases. Therefore, choosing a flower, you need to know its characteristics. Angrecum orchid, Cymbidium, Lelilia, Katleya, Vanda, for example, are light-loving plants. Lack of light leads to weak and deformed development of sprouts, yellowing of leaves. And, therefore, healthy bulbs will not form, new leaves grow small. Orchids may not bloom at all. They also do not tolerate direct sunlight. This may cause a burn.
• T hardy varieties: Cumbria, Phalaenopsis, can thrive and bloom in the north and northeast side of the room.

Problems related to fertilizers

Saturated green color leaflets and the appearance of cracks on the bulbs.

• Causes: oversaturation with minerals.
• How to fix: do not fertilize until (3 months) until the plant returns to its normal shape. The first three days, install the pot in partial shade. In the future, reduce the concentration of fertilizers, that is, add more water. To help restore new orchid leaves, you need to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Weak flowering and rapid fall of inflorescences, small increments.

• Causes: lack of mineral fertilizers.
• How to fix: read the instructions and dilute the fertilizer correctly. It will help in this situation, transplanting into a smaller pot.

Diseases

Improper care: excessive and insufficient watering, poor lighting develop non-communicable diseases in the plant. Steaming, for example, in a greenhouse, can also be included here. Orchid tolerates it harder than a burn. More mild form- damage to buds and buds. Severe - bulb cells die.

AT winter time if the orchid is exposed to low temperatures for 12 hours, the vegetative buds will be damaged.

Viruses, bacteria, fungi cause infectious diseases:

Pests

pot size

The root system of the flower should not grow in cramped conditions. If you need to increase the pot for the next transplant, then choose half a diameter larger. For example, a pot is 10 cm in diameter, then the next one should be 15 cm, etc.

plant age

For an orchid to bloom, it will take several years (1.5-3 years), depending on the species.

You can always determine its age by shoots. Adult specimens have 5–8 of them.

Sometimes flowering begins ahead of schedule. When the bush fades, the plant may die due to lack of strength to restore.

Orchids are considered long-lived, but the life span of the bulbs is different, for example, the life cycle of a cymbidium is 3-4 years, an oncidium is 3.

Conclusion

As we see, at proper care and prevention, you don't have to worry about getting sick. You just need to water it correctly, choose a place with normal lighting, do not overheat and freeze, monitor the correct concentration of top dressing.

For example, the leaves may turn yellow.

In this article, we will try to understand why this happens.

natural process

Seeing that the leaves of the orchid began to turn yellow, do not panic. This is how it manifests natural aging process Each leaf has its own cycle. Such a "change of generations" is characteristic of all colors.

In mass hybrids (cattleya,) one bottom sheet dries out. Less often, two processes die. In the genus nobile, all the leaves can fall from the bulb, both with and with the living.

If it is visible that only the lower leaves of the orchid turn yellow, do not rush to do something. The sheet will dry completely and separate by itself. It is not necessary to trim or pluck the barely yellow shoots so as not to injure the plant once again.

Important! Check your plants regularly. Yellowing can occur very quickly, within 1-4 days.

The age of the flowers also affects - the foliage rarely remains viable for several years. Shedding of leaves each year (during flowering or dormancy) is normal for this species. With proper care, flower growers are rarely worried about why the leaves of an orchid turn yellow. If there were any omissions, then the plant immediately reacts to them, changing color or slowing down in development.

Irrigation violation

One of the main reasons is non-compliance with the irrigation regime. They forgot on time or, on the contrary, waterlogged the soil - this disrupts the metabolism. Because of such blunders, a “hazing” color of the leaves appears.

Did you know? Some orchids are able to live underground.

Insufficient watering

Such cases are rare, but anything can happen. Let's take the same phalaenopsis. Outwardly healthy stem, normal roots, and leaves give off yellowness. This is possible even with regular watering.
The matter may be humidification method- supplying water from a watering can, thereby poorly moisturizing the bark (a good one quickly removes moisture into the pan, preventing the roots from “getting drunk”). Nutrients become deficient, and young shoots, as it were, intercept them from old ones. As a result, it becomes unclear why they turn yellow, and what to do.

Everything is simple. Switch to the so-called immersion watering to avoid instant waterlogging. Within a week or two after changing the regime, the plant will return to normal.

Too much moisture

The most common cause of leaf diseases. Beginners often "flood" the orchid. Harm from frequent water procedures obvious - here is "clogged", lifeless soil, and decay, accompanied by bacteria.

Experienced flower growers are advised to focus not only on upper pieces of bark. They dry quickly, literally in a day, and at a depth the substrate will retain moisture longer. Keep this in mind when starting watering.

Transparent ones are very convenient in this regard - you can see how the soil is moistened throughout the container. If the container is opaque, then take a wooden stick and carefully place it near the rim, and after a few minutes the picture will clear up (if it has become wet, it is too early to water).
Pros even determine the dryness of the soil "on weight", lifting the pot - a wet substrate is always heavier than a dry one.

The fact that the reason for the yellowing of the leaves of an orchid is precisely excessive watering is indicated by the following signs:

• All processes change color, and not just the lower ones;
• Black spots appear on the sheets themselves (less often on the trunk);
• Leaves become soft to the touch and moist;
• Roots darkened and covered with dark spots.

Another point: the plant can be easily pulled out of the pot, in which it almost rotates.

If the process of decay is already running, then the orchid will have to be removed from the pot and, paying special attention to the roots. After such resuscitation, the flower needs special attention.

In addition to the watering schedule, moisture itself also plays a role. The so-called hard water with various impurities provokes soil salinization. Realizing that the leaves of the orchid turned yellow precisely from such a “watering place”, change the soil. The leaves themselves are washed with liquid fertilizer. Of course, during the flowering period, it is better not to perform this operation, so as not to disturb the plant.

Dryness due to sunlight

Prolonged "sunbathing" can also be harmful. A flower that has stood all summer on the hot side is at risk of getting a sunburn. Such damage is immediately visible: “overheated” leaves turn yellow in places that have received a shock dose of rays.
The solution is simple - change the location of the plant. If there is no extra space in the apartment, the flowers are shaded by furnishing them with other, more spreading plants. Don't wait for the leaves to turn yellow and start to wilt. Remember that most hybrids are not adapted to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

The area around the burn dries out over time. You don’t need to remove all such a leaf - a healthy orchid has enough strength to nourish a healthy area.

Did you know? It happens that an orchid flower can take the form of an animal head or a small human figure. Such "tricks" can be distinguished by almost any kind.

The other extreme is insufficient lighting. In the cold season, additional light is used (phytolamps, fluorescent devices). They also need to be turned on wisely so as not to overheat the sleeping flower, a few hours will suffice.

The most photophilous are the lines, Lellia and Cattleya. Such plants are best kept away from the north side. Otherwise, all the leaves of the orchid may fall off, and you will urgently need to think about what to do.

Fertilization errors

The "nutrition" is also worth paying attention to. Today there are many that may not be suitable for some varieties. When buying, it is better to consult the seller, indicating the name of the variety.

Important! At the slightest suspicion of the presence of pests, the plant is not fertilized - this can lead to the death of the flower.

A separate issue is dosage. Consider what errors are most often made in its calculation.

Too much fertilizer

Let's start with the purchase. Sometimes sellers conduct "pre-sale preparation", stuffing the plant with stimulants and recharges. It's clear - they need a beautiful product. The same mistakes are made by beginners, usually from excessive zeal. Yes, and a professional can make a mistake when faced with an exotic.

The “overfed” flower will last a year or two, after which the leaves turn yellow at the orchid, and you can’t immediately figure out what to do.

Seriously, it is better to take fertilizers after the "shop" flowering, when the plant has settled in a new place.
When starting feeding, remember that:

• fertilizer is applied during the growth period;
• feeding is combined with watering. Every second watering is a great time. First, be sure to moisten the soil and shake the container with fertilizer so that the additives do not settle to the bottom;
• after the formation of the leaves there is no special need for fertilizer;
• in the cold season (as in the middle of a hot summer), top dressing is reduced, making it once a month. Some orchids will calmly survive the complete absence of "nutrition" during this period.
• weak and diseased orchids do not fertilize (damaged roots do not absorb minerals, and they accumulate in the soil). This is true for newly transplanted flowers. Top dressing in the first month after transplantation is not recommended.

Did you know? Orchids of the Stangopea line grow as if upside down. The effect is enhanced by unusually shaped flowers and leaves.

Note that growth stimulants are undesirable for home orchids. A typical "sore" is yellowing tips, which is caused by excess calcium. Here it will be useful to reconsider the diet, or even completely transplant the flower into a balanced substrate.

If you follow these simple measures, the plant will receive a verified dose. But there is a downside - with poor feeding, the leaves of the orchid also turn yellow, and the reasons lie precisely in the fertilizers.

Lack of top dressing

It's not as dangerous as oversaturation, but it's not good either. The orchid usually suffers from potassium deficiency, which is noticeable by the gradual yellowing of the upper part of the leaf. At the next stage, the already affected inner plate with dead veins is visible.
This process is connected with the fact that there is very little potassium in the flower, and with its deficiency, young leaves simply begin to draw this mineral from their older "neighbors". Over time, the picture becomes sad - the leaves fall off the orchid. To avoid this, the plant is transplanted into a new soil rich in potassium.

Important! For a one-time fertilizer of indoor orchids, take half of the dose indicated on the package.

Pay attention to the composition of fertilizers. Potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen must be included. Experienced flower growers also pay attention to the labeling of the feed. There are letters NPK on the pack or bottle, and numbers next to it. It is this code that indicates what this fertilizer is for. The code 4-3-3 is for a set of green mass, and 4-6-6 is applied to the packaging of flowering stimulants.

Diseases and pests of orchids as the cause of yellowing leaves

Like all plants, Such sores are often brought different kind pests. Their presence leads to the fact that the orchid fades, and the leaves wither and turn yellow.

Major pests

Orchids have many "opponents" with which to fight. We list the main pests and methods of treatment. Before this, isolate the infected flower from healthy plants.

The easiest way to find tenacious. Its presence is indicated by a thin cobweb on inside leaf and shoots.
Eliminated by flushing warm water(40-45 °С). After such a procedure, the flower is covered with a bag for three days, not forgetting to control the condition of the soil. If it doesn’t help, drugs like Neoron and Tiophos are used.

Did you know? A number of rare hybrids are distinguished by hypersensitivity. In half an hour of exposure to sunlight, they receive critical burns.

On the reverse side leaf plate settles and. These green insects, while sipping juices from the plant, also poison the cells. Moreover, they are also carriers of fungi. They love dryness.

If the leaves become sticky to the touch and change their appearance, proceed with the treatment:

• washing with warm water (if aphids are few);
• treatment with a soap solution (laundry soap foam is especially effective). After that, the plant is sprayed "";
• infusion of citrus skins: 100 g is poured with a liter of water and insisted for three days. The resulting solution is sprayed every 5 hours for several days in a row.

In search of an answer, what to do if the leaves of an orchid turn yellow, take a closer look at them. There may be dark growths - it "worked" scab. Thick-leaved varieties that are kept at high temperatures attract these pests more than others. An infected flower is best isolated.
You can get rid of this misfortune like this:

• olive oil is diluted in water (1 tablespoon / 0.5 l) and applied to the affected areas. This is done three times, with a weekly interval;
• for plants with thick leaves, wiping with cotton wool soaked in ethyl alcohol is suitable;
• washing with warm water and removing young scale insects. Then the plant is sprayed with "Fitoverm", but "" is also suitable. Repeated with a difference of 7-10 days.

Important! You can only see the young scale insects with a magnifying glass.

insidiousness thrips- in their obscurity. Translucent insects with wings have chosen low humidity. They leave a mark in the form of small dots or a silvery "spray".

They can live both on leaves and in the substrate, therefore they require removal:

• washing with warm water and cutting off the affected areas to healthy places;
• spraying with special preparations (the same Aktellik) with an interval of 10 days. Repeats two more times.
• infusion olive oil(see above);
• processing with garlic-onion infusion (1 tsp of such a porridge per glass of water, a day of exposure).

Nematodes inhibit growth, deform leaves. Imported purely from garden soil and not from the substrate. These microworms do not tolerate high temperatures (the limit is +40 ° C), but such a “bath” is also dangerous for your pet. A more harmless option is a solution of Levamisal (or Decaris). The tablet is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the moisture is poured into the soil.

Once upon a time, an orchid could only be seen in the mountains or in dense thickets near lakes. Today, thanks to the breeders who "domesticated" this plant, it has become available to amateur flower growers. However, despite this, the orchid is a very capricious plant, and its care must be appropriate.

The most common question that can be heard from flower growers is about orchids.

Let's see why this happens and what to do about it.

Reason #1

Have you been given or bought a new phalaenopsis or other orchid, have you brought the plant home, and after a while noticed that the leaves began to turn yellow sharply? In 95% of cases, this is the one that “clung” to the plant in the store. With a strong infection, the leaves suffer, and the orchids turn yellow and wither very quickly.

Without delay, start treatment, then there are chances of saving your pet.

You need to understand that if that disease is already deeper, and the whole plant needs to be treated. Here, removing one leaf will not save. The problem is that the fungus needs moisture. Therefore, in order to get rid of it, the orchid must be dried completely - both leaves and roots. Unfortunately, you won’t get by with one drying; in parallel, you need to treat the plant with antifungal drugs - fungicides. Otherwise, when you start watering the plant, the fungus will reappear.

Very often, in stores for a presentation, a flowerpot with an orchid is placed in a tight flowerpot. And, as a result, air does not enter the root system and moisture stagnates in the container, hence the fungus.

Reason two

The leaves of the orchid also turn yellow because the leaves themselves do not receive useful substances from the roots. In some cases, this is a natural process in which old leaves die off.

Each type of orchid has its own leaf lifespan. For example, the dendrobium sheds them every year, and sometimes twice. Phalaenopsis sheds the bottom old leaf once a year. The leaves of the calantha orchid die off when the plant is preparing for or during the dormant period.

Reason number three

A common reason for this is poor lighting. Plants with dense leaves You need moist soil, but at the same time bright enough light. Perhaps in one year you will not understand that they do not have enough sun, they will behave normally, and in the 2-3rd year they may show signs of discontent. The way out of this situation is to specify their grade when buying. Very fond of the light of lellia and cattleya, as well as their hybrids. A great need for lighting in varieties of ascocenda, vanda, angrecums and rhynchostylists.

Reason #4

There is another option - the saddest one, from which no one is immune. And the problem appears unexpectedly, in the second or third year.

In order for orchids to quickly grow and bloom, sellers resort to tricks - they overfeed the plants with fertilizers. When buying, you see a beautiful, luxurious flower, perhaps it will even bloom and delight you on next year like a healthy orchid. The leaves turn yellow at the base suddenly and fall off in a couple of days. Fresh foliage in this case will not appear soon. Not all amateur gardeners have the patience to bring such a plant to life.

In order to avoid problems with plants, buy them in special nurseries, where you will have at least minimal insurance against such unpleasant surprises. If you are a beginner grower, choose varieties of orchids that do not require complex care. And then your plants will bloom and delight you for many years.