What to plant after greenery next year. Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what, then plant in the garden? What can not be planted after dill

Planning crops in the garden is a very important issue for the vegetable grower. Yield largely depends on it. It has long been scientifically proven that the compatibility (or, conversely, incompatibility) of vegetables greatly affects the yield. There are several reasons why you need to take into account the order of landings. First of all, these are pests and various diseases. Some vegetable crops can be affected by the same pests and diseases. The second reason to consider crop rotation is soil fertility. Some cultures consume very a large number of nutrients from the soil and after the cultivation process, it is noticeably depleted. Therefore, if you plant a similar vegetable in the same place next season, then good harvest you don't have to wait. Given this fact, many beginner gardeners may have a question, what to plant after? In this article we will try to answer it.

What to plant after onions

Many summer residents are interested in this question. In many recommendations and articles about growing a particular crop, they write that it is not recommended to plant after onions. But what can be planted after onions? Let's try to figure it out. After onions, you can successfully plant carrots, beets, tomatoes, cucumbers or zucchini. This implies that landings will be made for the next season. And this season, immediately after harvesting the onions, you can sow different greens - spinach or lettuce.

What to plant after garlic

Garlic, in this regard, is very similar to onions. For the next season, after garlic, it is recommended to plant potatoes (preferably early varieties), cucumbers and legumes. It is highly undesirable to re-place garlic and onions in the same place.

What to plant after potatoes

It is not recommended to plant after potatoes those plants that are prone to the same diseases. First of all, it's tomatoes. Peppers and eggplants can also be attributed to such crops. Everything else is possible. After growing potatoes, green manure should be planted. These plants will restore the desired soil structure.

What to plant after tomatoes

Tomatoes are completely similar to potatoes. After growing them, the beds are best planted with green manure. You can successfully plant any legume, such as peas or beans. It will also grow beautifully: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin and carrots. If you plant green manure in the fall, then next year you can plant tomatoes again.

What to plant after pepper

Peppers are very similar to tomatoes. The next year, after pepper, you can not plant tomatoes, pepper itself, potatoes, eggplant, any nightshade. Crops such as beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots or beets are recommended for planting.

What to plant after carrots

Carrots go very well with onions. Therefore, after it, you can plant onions. You can also grow legumes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes.

What to plant after cabbage

The rules of crop rotation should be observed. Only in this case you will get a good harvest.

Table

You can see more detailed information about the choice of predecessors in the table. Save it for yourself, print it and be guided by it in the future.

The table is very easy to understand.

Table What to plant after? Smart planting planning

Rotation table

When planning future crops, it is necessary first of all to take into account sequence of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get higher yields. In order not to get confused in the "five acres", it is worth drawing a plan for your garden for the coming summer and rough plan landings on next year, observing the correct order of alternation vegetable crops.

Cabbage

It is impossible to plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radish, radish) in the same place earlier than in 2-3 years. White cabbage is best placed after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is acceptable.

Potato

The best predecessors for potatoes are cabbage and various root crops. A bad predecessor for potatoes is a tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Growing potatoes in the same place should not be earlier than -3.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good predecessors for tomatoes - color and early White cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onion.

If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every autumn, for deep digging of the soil, you need to add fluffy lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), so how tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, beets again).

Onion

In one place, onions should not be planted for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops that were subjected to large doses of organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions will not give a good harvest, he prefers light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.

Garlic

It is possible to grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise it is impossible to avoid contamination of the soil with a stem nematode.

It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

eggplant

The best predecessors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs. You can not plant eggplant where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

strawberries

The best predecessors for strawberries: radish, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. You can not place strawberries after all species of the Compositae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

Together is better

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another correct solution- joint landings. This is both convenient and allows you to get a large assortment vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops favorably act on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint plantings with onions scare the carrot fly away from it). Onion amicably coexists with table beets, chicory, carrots. Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon. To potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn, to cucumber- dill and corn, radish will benefit from the neighborhood with watercress, and peas - with mustard leaf.

It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a positive effect on each other. You can make the following bed: plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.

As for the unwanted neighborhood, then cannot be planted nearby potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin. If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be oppressed.

In addition, if space permits, highlight small plot for the cultivation of grass seed: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. Thus, you will give the earth a rest, gain strength for the cultivation of vegetable crops.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge. By following the above rules, you can get very!

The right choice and combination of crops on the site is not a whim or a tribute to fashion. Ecological and biological laws will not allow growing in open field palm trees beyond the 50th parallel, and a high yield of moisture-loving vegetables - on a rainfed slope. The desire to get more significant yields leads gardeners to the idea that they need an educational program on the problem of "which crops can be planted after which." Find out why rotation is so important for soil, plants and stable yields.

What is the importance of plant rotation in the garden

• preservation and improvement of the structure of the fertile layer;
• reduction of soil depletion;
• enrichment with nutrients through the use of green manure;
• weed control with compacted plantings.

How to rotate crops in the garden

Crop rotation in the garden is the optimal alternation of plants. Therefore, the crops with which the garden will be sown must be combined into compatibility groups. How many groups will turn out - so many beds or plots need to be made. In the next season, sow the seeds of plants from bed number 1 in the second plot, so move all the crops to the beds with subsequent numbers. Perennial plants do not participate in this alternation.

The larger the site, the more opportunities for rotation. What to plant in the garden after small size? Consider the conditions and possibilities for crop rotation, taking into account that ideal options for different plots of land and soil types does not exist. The main thing is that the crop rotation scheme should be rational, convenient and useful for the harvest.

Basic rules for introducing crop rotation in the garden

Plant rotation is impossible without fields and plots different sizes. With these important elements it is easier to observe the main principles of crop rotation.

1. The choice of cultivated plants should correspond to the natural and geographical features (with the exception of crop rotation in constantly heated greenhouses).
2. One of the plots should be taken for green manure - green plants that accumulate valuable nutrients in their organs (legumes).
3. Preservation of fertility ensures the alternation of more demanding plants with less demanding ones. For example, sunflower strongly depletes the soil, peas enrich it.
4. Crops grown for tubers and root crops should be replaced leafy vegetables, corn, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini.
5. It is necessary to organize watering in accordance with the needs of plants.

If all of the above is expressed briefly, then it will be necessary to state that the answer to the question “which crops can be planted after which?” depends on the biological characteristics of plants, habitat, size of the garden and the plans of its owner.

Choice of cultivated plants for crop rotation

Usually small plots are allocated for vegetable gardens. Even on the traditional 6 acres, enthusiasts manage to grow more than 20 varieties cultivated plants. A common "gentleman's set" includes: potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, onions, cabbage, carrots, parsley, tomatoes.

The commendable desire to plant trees is justified by the beneficial effect of fruit and berry crops on the microclimate and garden soil. Trees and shrubs protect from the cold, trap snow, and serve as a home for beneficial insectivorous birds. Between these plants there is still room for lettuce, dill, lemon balm, basil, asparagus, peppermint. Remains open question"what to plant after what?".

When a crop rotation scheme is drawn up for the first time, you will need to make a plan for the garden, mark trees and beds on it, indicate where seeds will be sown and seedlings planted. This year, the same vegetables should not be in the same places as last season.

How to equip your garden

The question “which crops after which can be planted” arises before they begin field work. More precisely, the rotation of crops on the site should be carried out every season in a certain order. Therefore, one should start not from scratch, but from studying last year's crop rotation scheme.

Another thing is if the site has just been received for use, old trees grow on it, there are stumps and thickets of thorny bushes. In this case, uprooting, landscaping, and cultivation are carried out. Soils in the non-chernozem zone are excessively moist and contain little humus. It is necessary to build ridges, to ensure the drainage of water. Acidic soils should be limed, peat and clay should be added to sandy ones, infertile ones should be enriched with mineral and organic substances.

At the same time, the following issues need to be addressed:

• where to get high-quality planting material;
• what will be the irrigation system;
• what equipment will be needed for plant care.

The success of work in the garden largely depends on natural factors, the microclimate on the site, and the quality of the soil. In the old days they said: "What is the land, such will be the harvest."

How to organize crop rotation in the garden

Crop rotation scheme in areas where gourds are grown (numbers indicate the numbers of the beds):

1. Tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant.
2. Peas.
3. Cabbage.
4. Sweet corn.
5. Potato different term maturation (early, late).
6. Gourds (watermelons, melons), zucchini, pumpkins.
7. Cucumbers, table beets, greens.
8. Beans, beans.

Crop rotation in a garden with a large number of ridges:

1. Radish, white cabbage (early varieties), kohlrabi.
2. Peas, green crops.
3. Potatoes of different ripening periods, after early varieties, radishes and onions can be sown.
4. Beets, carrots, radishes.
5. Tomatoes, bell peppers, eggplant.
6. Bring humus in the spring and grow zucchini, cucumbers.
7. Beans, onions, garlic.

What then to plant in a small garden:

1. Potatoes compacted with radishes, carrots, onions.
2. Peas, zucchini, sweet corn, compacted with beans, different varieties of tomatoes and bell peppers.
3. White cabbage stuffed with cucumbers.

Additional opportunities for crop rotation

The culture of agriculture provides for the presence of fallow and semi-fallow in the crop rotation. To do this, the land is cleared of weeds, dug up in the fall. In spring and summer, only weeds are removed. On one plot, you can sow legume-cereal mixtures and not clean up, but dig up the site.

If a greenhouse is installed in the garden, then adjustments will need to be made to the alternation of cultivated plants. Radishes, feather onions, lettuce, vegetable and flower seedlings can be grown in small-sized film-protected tunnels. For the manufacture of such a greenhouse, rods or wire (with a diameter of more than 5 mm) will be required. The frame is covered with a mesh and a transparent film.

What crops after which can be planted in a greenhouse

Starting work in the greenhouse in different natural areas covers February-April. It is important that the soil warms up. Radishes are sown first, onions and parsley are distilled directly in the ground, pots or containers. The last decade of March is the time of sowing leaf lettuce. By the time the early radishes are harvested, lettuce seedlings can be planted in their place. If space is available, potatoes are planted.

Mass harvesting of early crops in the greenhouse is carried out in mid-May. Seedlings of early tomatoes are placed in the vacated places. Not a single square decimeter of area in the greenhouse should be empty. Planting continues in summer and autumn (autumn radish, lettuce, onions). There is a harvest of tomatoes, sweet peppers. After the establishment of frosty weather, the ground in the greenhouse is allowed to rest.

Crop rotation, fertilization, watering allow you to harvest a significant crop in the greenhouse and open ground.

Every year, before the start of a new gardening season, you need to consider the location of the plants on your site. It is even recommended to draw up a sowing plan in order to orient yourself for the next year, and then plant this or that crop. The question of the compatibility of radish with other vegetables arises, since an improperly selected neighborhood depresses this vegetable and provokes diseases, and suitable neighbors, on the contrary, contribute to a bountiful harvest.

Reference. Mixed proper planting of radishes will help you use the land wisely and at the same time save space in the garden.

Compatible crops planted nearby also greatly facilitate the care process, since they require approximately the same procedures and conditions:

• lighting intensity;
• watering;
• suitable soil;
• feeding scheme.

Planting plants that are incompatible with radish is dangerous with a number of problems. This is the development of a fungal infection, poor development of the culture, the attraction of pests and a small yield.

What cultures will be good predecessors?

The best predecessors for any varieties and types of radish are legumes:

Also, the culture will grow well after:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pepper;
• eggplant;
• greens (dill, onion).

These plants have a different chemical composition, they require different soil. Larvae and pathogens that remain in the soil will not affect the condition of the radish.

You can not plant a radish after any representatives of the Cruciferous family. This is:

• cabbage;
• carrot;
• beet;
• horseradish;
• radish.

From them, the radish can become infected with the same diseases, insects. After the presented crops, radish can be planted in this place only after 3-4 years.

Can I stay in one place for several years?

Crop rotation and crop rotation - necessary condition in order to prevent the depletion of the soil and the accumulation of pathogens, pest larvae in it. Radish can be returned to the place where it already grew only after 2-4 years.

Note! If the site is small and there is no new place for the radish, it is allowed to plant it on the old garden bed.

But at the same time, you need to carefully prepare the soil before planting:

1. dig;
2. make fertilizer;
3. disinfect (spill with a working solution of chemicals).

But it is almost impossible to achieve a high yield in the old place.

What vegetables can be planted next year?

After harvesting the radish, the area must be cleaned of plant debris, dug up. The following year, it is allowed to plant any crops that are not included in the same family as radish (in the Cabbage family or, in new terminology, Cruciferous). As already mentioned, all members of this family have the same diseases with radish.

Specific plants for planting after radish.

• Tomatoes and eggplant. Cultures do not have common enemies, the smell of tomatoes also effectively repels cruciferous fly, aphids.
• Peas, melons, beans- the absence of common enemies, a different level of rhizome growth.

What can be planted on the same bed?

The most popular option is planting radishes along the edges of the beds where leaf or head lettuce grows. This greenery will protect the root crop from the earthen flea. Also a suitable neighbor for radish is bush beans. It will improve the taste of the root crop and repel insects.

You can often find a radish planted along the edges of the beds with:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• potatoes;
• bow.

This significantly saves space on the site.

Important! You can not plant a radish next to hyssop. This spicy crop gets along hard with any vegetables, and it can also spoil the taste of the root crop.

Ideal and beautiful neighbors for radishes are various flowers.

So, the radish is a member of the Cruciferous (Cabbage) family. Other representatives of this family are forbidden to plant after radish for 3-4 years. Cruciferous are also the worst predecessors for radishes. A root crop grows well after legumes; radish can be planted next to tomatoes, onions, potatoes, flowers. Remember that the right neighborhood is one of the guarantees of a good harvest.

Gardeners and summer residents, especially beginners, will find this memo useful. Yes, and not beginners at the beginning of the sowing season will not hurt to refresh their memory

The plant is returned to the place where it grew no earlier than after 3-4 years. There are exceptions: tomato, beans, strawberries, potatoes - they can grow in the same place for years. The principle of fruit change implies that the predecessors prepare the ground for the next plants. Plants with a shallow root system are followed by plants with a deep root system.

After plants affected by certain diseases and pests, those that are resistant to them are planted. This is especially important for cabbage and nightshade (tomato, potato). Related crops of plants (tomatoes-potatoes, cucumbers-pumpkins) suffer from the same diseases.

To avoid one-sided depletion of the soil, plants alternate depending on what nutrients they require. In a simplified form, you can alternate tops and roots (for example, carrots are grown after cabbage or tomatoes).

After onions and garlic, all crops can be planted. Re-sowing onions and garlic is not recommended.

After tomatoes and potatoes: cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, beans, peas, garlic, beets, lettuce, carrots, parsley, dill, celery.

After cucumbers, zucchini, squash planted: radishes, cabbage, beets, onions, garlic, peas, beans, tomatoes, potatoes.

After carrots, dill, parsley, celery, they plant: onions, garlic, beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes.

After strawberries (after 4 years) - root crops and legumes, the next year - pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, after - tomatoes, onions. After beans, peas, onions and garlic, any crop can be planted.


The best predecessors of the main vegetable crops are:

for green crops (except lettuce) - cabbage, cucumber, root crops, onions;

for early white and cauliflower - potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, legumes, root crops (except radishes, turnips, radishes and rutabaga);

for medium and late white cabbage - tomato, potatoes, legumes, carrots, beets;

for turnip onions - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, early potatoes, legumes, late cabbage and potatoes;

for cucumber - early white and cauliflower, tomato, potato, legumes (except beans), root crops (except carrots), as beans and carrots are affected by white rot, like cucumber;

for carrots - potatoes, cabbage, green crops (except lettuce, suffering from white rot), tomato, legumes (except beans);

for beets - cucumber and other pumpkin, early potatoes, cabbage, tomato and all legumes, late cabbage;

for potatoes - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, squash, cabbage, legumes, root crops, onions;

for tomato, pepper, eggplant, physalis - early white and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, turnip onions, root crops, late cabbage;

for garlic - cucumber, tomato, early white cabbage, legumes, late cabbage;

Compatible plants:

Cherry - raspberry

Eggplants are recommended to be planted among bush beans, which repel the Colorado potato beetle.
Favorably affects eggplant - savory.

For beans, the most favorable neighbors are cucumbers. Therefore, it is recommended to plant beans around cucumber beds. Beans go well with mustard, potatoes, radishes, radishes, sweet corn, spinach. The inclusion of beans in the plantings of these plants improves the nutrition of the latter with nitrogen. Fragrant basil, planted next to beans, reduces damage to them by the bean weevil. Other useful herbs for beans: borage, oregano, rosemary, yarrow.

Radish and oilseed radish have a beneficial effect on grapes.
Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, cucumbers, and turnips. Peas grow well between the rows of these crops, and, like all legumes, enrich the soil with nitrogen.
Mustard repels pea codling moth from peas and inhibits weeds
Peas are also compatible with oats and celery. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas.
Mustard root secretions (in mixed crops) stimulate the growth of peas.

Strawberries are favorably affected by: bush beans, parsley, spinach. Garlic - protects. Parsley, planted in the aisles of strawberries - repels slugs.
Strawberries can be combined with cabbage, onions, radishes, radishes, lettuce, beets, garlic. Of the herbs, borage (orypechnaya grass) and sage work well for her. Mulching the soil during the formation of fruits with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries;

White cabbage as neighbors prefers lettuce, onions, celery, dill, bush beans, radishes and even potatoes.
Dill, planted between rows of cabbage, improves its taste and repels caterpillars and aphids.
Celery protects cabbage from ground fleas and cabbage flies, but attracts cabbage whites with its smell, which means that it is undesirable to place them together.
Cabbage is also favored by the proximity to borage, which has a good effect on cabbage and drives snails away with its hard hairy leaves.
A very good accompanying crop for cabbage is lettuce (all types). It also protects it from the earthen flea.
Cabbage is in great need of protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay their eggs on its leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant hyssop, mint, wormwood, chamomile, savory, sage around plantings of cabbage.
Leek repels cutworm caterpillars.
In the aisle of cabbage, it is appropriate to plant marigolds, nasturtium, marigolds - they repel aphids, cabbage and carrot flies, whites.
Parsnip attracts predatory insects that destroy caterpillars.
Head lettuce, onions, celery, and beets are compatible with broccoli.
Undesirable for cabbage: tomatoes, beans, carrots.

Potatoes get along well with eggplant, cabbage, corn, onions, spinach, beans, horseradish, garlic and mint. Potatoes protect the beans from bruchus, and the beans feed the potatoes with nitrogen. The above plants complement each other favorably, as they take moisture and nutrients from different soil horizons. When growing potatoes in a mixed culture with compatible plants, it gets sick less and grows in one place for many years, with a stable yield. Potatoes are not indifferent to cabbage, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic. The best partners for potatoes are beans, bush beans and spinach. Beans planted between the rows of potatoes enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potato goes well with cabbage, especially with colored kohlrabi, corn, radish and different types lettuce, Horseradish planted in bushes on a potato plot has a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by marigolds, catnip, coriander, nasturtium, and tansy. Phytoncides of onion and garlic quickly destroy the pathogenic potato fungus - late blight.

Corn belongs to plants demanding nutrition, so it goes very well with both bush and climbing beans, for which corn is a support. Corn is combined with beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, early potatoes, lettuce. Cucumbers are recommended to be planted around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on potatoes, sunflowers.
Corn is compacted with zucchini, pumpkin, as well as beans or peas, for which the corn stalk serves as a support. Peas and beans contribute to the accumulation of nitrogen in the soil.
Soy protects corn from turtle bugs
Bad neighbors for corn - table beet and celery

Onions and carrots protect each other from pests: carrots repel onion fly, and onion - carrot fly.
Onions are combined with strawberries, watercress, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, parsley. Bordering onion beds with savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well for it, but only with a small number of chamomile bushes (one - per running meter beds).
By placing individual plants onions and garlic next to cucumbers, you can protect them from bacteriosis. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries protect the apple tree from scab, and the raspberry tree protects from gray rot.

Carrots and peas mutually enrich each other. Carrots are friends with tomatoes, lettuce, dill, onions, carrots.
Root secretions of beets planted along the edge of the garden - heal carrots.

Mint (melissa) - grows well in sorrel thickets.

Strawberries are grown under sea buckthorn or medicinal herbs: chamomile, oregano. These herbs with sea buckthorn leaf make a good vitamin tea.

Cucumbers are friends with peas and cabbage. If dill is sown between cucumbers, the duration of their fruiting will increase, and hence the harvest. Cucumbers are also compatible with beans, lettuce, onions, celery, beets, parsley. Onion phytoncides kill spider mites on cucumbers.

The nut has no compatible crops;

Tomatoes will help spring garlic and dill. Tomatoes themselves help other plants. To scare away butterflies, codling moths and protect against scab of pears and apple trees, tall tomatoes are planted. Tomatoes secrete biologically active substances that stimulate the development of peas, cabbage, onions, and beans.
Sweet basil improves the taste of tomatoes;

Radish is friends with carrots, cucumbers, parsnips, tomatoes, beets, pumpkins and spinach;

Lettuce repels earthen flea from radish, radish, cabbage;

Radishes planted between bush beans will be larger and tastier. This is facilitated, as well - nasturtium and watercress.

Beets get along well with lettuce, peas, cabbage, dill and parsley;

Celery prefers neighbors: tomato, beans, spinach, onions, cucumber, cabbage

Currants are not damaged by bud mites if you plant onions between bushes and leave them in the ground for the winter.

Soy is friendly with all cultures.

Asparagus and marigolds - help in the fight against the nematode.

Beans, pumpkins and corn have long been planted together. Pumpkin inhibited the growth of weeds, shading the soil with its foliage, corn protected the pumpkin from overheating, beans enriched the soil with nitrogen. These plants complement each other, as they take moisture and nutrients from different horizons of the soil, different mineral elements are needed for their development, and they relate differently to lighting.

Spicy plants are sown between vegetables and trees - anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. The smell of these plants, their phytoncides - prevents the spread of pests and diseases.

If marigolds, nasturtium, calendula (marigolds), chicory are planted between the ridges of potatoes or onions, bunches of rye straw are plowed into the soil, they will protect these crops from nematode damage. Marigolds, mustard leaf, marigolds, celandine, spinach - they heal the soil.

If you make a marigold border around the area on which the roses are planted, the defeat of roses by nematodes will become impossible.

Parsley will drive away the ants. Parsley heals vineyards affected by phylloxera.

Tansy cinerary, or Dalmatian chamomile, saves cabbage from aphids, caterpillars of cabbage scoops and whites, and apple trees from aphids, codling moth and other pests. The powder of this plant was used to fight fleas, bedbugs, flies, cockroaches and even mice. You can also use pink tansy and red tansy close to it. These plants are also known under the names of Persian chamomile and Caucasian chamomile.

Get along with the salad: carrots, cucumbers, legumes, radishes;

Beans are compatible with cabbage, cucumbers, sugar beets. Beans are useful for planting other crops, as they help get rid of the meadow moth.

Garlic protects asters, cloves, gladiolus, roses from powdery mildew, black leg, black spot and Fusarium, reduces the incidence of gray rot in cloves.

Apple tree - raspberry

Celery, dill, onion, carrot well planted side by side. They can be planted together or sequentially, one after the other.



Incompatible plants:

It is not recommended to plant beans (beans, peas, soybeans) with onions and garlic. Also, the neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.

Grapes are incompatible with cabbage, which is the enemy of grapes;

Peas - incompatible with swede, beans, tomato;
Garoch and beans conflict with onions and garlic;

Combinations of peas with all kinds of onions, tomatoes, garlic, swede, beans are unfavorable;

Poor effect on peas - wormwood;

The walnut oppresses everything that comes under its crown;

Cabbage - it is incompatible with tomatoes, carrots;
Cabbage is not combined with parsley, carrots and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes;
Tansy does not work well on kale.

Potatoes are incompatible with sunflowers, tomatoes and pumpkins (they can cause late blight disease in him);
Potatoes are oppressed by: cherry, apple tree, raspberry, mountain ash, sunflower;
Potatoes do not tolerate cucumbers, tomatoes and pumpkin;
It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery;

Bad neighbors for corn are table beets and celery;

Currants and gooseberries cannot be planted side by side (gooseberry moth damage);

Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans, (cabbage, potatoes -?). The proximity of sage is also unfavorable for him.

Raspberries and strawberries - if they are nearby, this contributes to the reproduction of the strawberry-raspberry weevil;

Sea buckthorn, strawberries and nightshade - if they are nearby, this contributes to the development of the same diseases;

Cucumbers are suppressed by tomatoes;
Cucumbers feud with potatoes and aromatic herbs;

The peach depresses the cherry, pear and apple tree. They need to be planted away from each other.

Parsley - cucumber, head lettuce;

Tomato, dill and beans are incompatible with cabbage;
Tomatoes are aggressive towards grapes; Tomatoes - cucumber, turnip, peas, beets, parsley, apple tree, red cabbage; Tomatoes are oppressed by potatoes and turnips.