Brick oven of periodic action for a bath. Brick oven for a bath

Intermittent stoves

Periodic stoves are most suitable for a family bath, when the duration of the steaming process is short. They are distinguished by greater (approximately 30%), compared with the above options, efficiency, less preparation time for the bath process, since hot gases passing through the stone backfill heat up much faster and more strongly.

Fig.99. The design of the heater-barrel:
1 firebox; 2-cast iron plate; 3-stone backfill;
4-chimney.

The temperature of the stone backfill in its lower layers can reach 1000°C, and in the upper layers - *>90-600°C. This temperature is quite enough for the soot particles that have settled on the stones to burn out. Therefore, the atmosphere of the steam room is not polluted. In baths that are not equipped with hot water supply, it is possible to embed special registers for heating water. An example of such a heat-consuming stove, designed for a bath for 4-5 people, is a stove designed by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (Fig. 100 and 101), and in Fig. 102, 103, 104, 105 is presented pleased with the masonry of that stove.

To build a furnace you will need:
- Red brick - 1240 pcs.
- Refractory brick - 250 pcs.
- Common clay - 0.35 m3
- Clay refractory with fireclay -120 kg
- Ravine sand - 0.17 m3
- Coil (register) from steel pipes - 1 piece
- Furnace door 400X300 mm -1 pc.
- Blower door 200X140 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning door 130X130 mm - 1 pc.
- Steam door 430X360 mm - 1 pc.
- Smoke damper 290X250 mm -1 pc.
-Grate 430X250 mm -1 pc.
- Steel strip 500X30 mm - 0.75 m
- Corner 50X50X3 mm - 0.75 m

The stove consists of a firebox for firewood and a closed chamber, on the bottom of which a stone backfill is laid. Flue gases, having passed the stone backfill, enter two downcomers located on the side and are removed through the chimney into the atmosphere. A coil is located in the upper part of the firebox, some water is supplied by gravity from the tank. When heated, hot water enters the tank through the pipe, from the bottom of which colder water moves into the coil. Thus, with the help of natural circulation during the heating of the furnace, the amount of water necessary for washing is heated.

Rice. 100 Construction heater
L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarina:
A-general view of the furnace and water supply scheme; B-design of a coil for heating water;
1-furnace, 2-coil; Z-water folding taps for cold and hot water; 4-bench; 5-tank c cold water, 6-tank with hot water; 7-furnace compartment: 8-hole door 20x14 cm; 9-additional blower door

Rice. 101. Stove-heater of periodic action Korobanova L.A. and Samarina N.I. (projections).

Rice. 102. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (beginning).

Rice. 103. Ordering the furnace L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (10-17 rows).

Rice. 104. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (18 25 rows).

Rice. 105. The ordering of the furnace by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (26-34 rows).

A fairly simple construction of a metal batch furnace is shown in Figure 106. This design does not provide for a hot water tank, but if necessary, it can be built in. In a metal case with doors, grate bars are laid on the shelves made of angle steel, forming the bottom of the firebox. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the firebox is lined with refractory bricks. The bottom of the stone filling chamber is steel grating laid on the brick lining of the firebox. If there is a need to heat water, then a metal container with water is installed on the cover of the stone filling chamber. Flue gases, passing through the stone backfill and washing the lid, go through the pipe into the atmosphere. Thus, both the stone backfill and the water container installed on the lid are warmed up.

A metal stove can also be with a hot water tank. The simplest design such a furnace is shown in Figure 107. The furnace casing with a size of 70X70X170 mm is welded from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm (since thinner sheet steel will burn out quickly). The height of the oven is divided into three zones: the lower one serves as a furnace, the middle one - as a heater, the upper one is for heating water. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the zone of the firebox and stone filling is lined with red brick laid on the edge. The bottom of the stone backfill can be a powerful grate or steel grate that can withstand the weight of the stone backfill. Water in a container with a lid is heated by flue gases passing through a steel chimney.

Rice. 106. Metal heater of periodic action:
1-case; 2.3 doors; 4-shelf; 5-grate grates; 6-plate; 7-bricks; 8-stones; 9-cover; 10-grid.

Rice. 107. Stove with a tank for heating water:
1 - brickwork; 2-metal case; 3-chimney; 4- water tank; 5-heater; 6-metal grille; 7-furnace.

The bulk of the flue gas heat is taken away by stone filling, so the water in the tank is not brought to a boil. Steam is obtained by pouring hot water over the heater through a 200X200 mm door located on the side of the stone backfill. The design of the furnace is so simple that it can be made at home, subject to the skill of welding and the availability necessary equipment. Figure 108 shows a furnace with a hot water tank designed by P. M. Lysenko, the principle of operation of which is similar to that described above.

The original design of the stove-heater was built for his bath with a steam room 2X2 m B.I. Ivanov. The old one, which has served its time, was chosen as the basis of the furnace. a wood-burning column for heating water (Fig. 109 and 110). Having cut off the top (by 250-300 mm) and the bottom at the column, the central pipe is removed. In the cut off upper part, a hole is cut out for the stove door measuring 65X150 mm, a door is made of roofing iron and put in its place in such a way that it can be removed during the operation of the stove. The column is adjusted to the height of the steam room so that its upper part can be removed if necessary. A powerful metal grate is installed above the firebox, capable of withstanding the high temperature and the severity of the stone backfill. The column is installed in place, filled with stone and connected to chimney. A smoke damper is installed between the column and the chimney so that the stove cools down more slowly. When installing the heater, make sure that the door for the stone filling is located in such a way as to prevent burns of the steamer when pouring water on the heater. The removable top of the heater will allow you to periodically remove the stones for inspection, cleaning and replacement.

A metal stove-heater of periodic action designed by P.I. Mikhailov (Fig. 111) provides for the option of removing flue gases when the bath is already heated, and the firewood has not yet burned out. To do this, the designer laid an additional chimney, which is closed during the heating of the bath and opens only when the bath is heated and the main valve closes. This is done so that in the process of burning out the wood, the flue gases, which no longer have a high temperature, do not cool the stones of the heater.

Rice. 108. The stove for a bath with a tank P.M. Lysenko:
1-Chimney with a diameter of 120 ... 150 mm; 2-brick pipe; 3-
valve; 4-platform size 300x300 mm for a brick pipe; 5- tank for hot water; 6-ring made of steel strip; 7-pin faucet with latch; 11-blew; 12-window; 13-tank cover; 14-lid with handle; 15-steel circle to the tank; 16-lattice of reinforcing bars; 17-plate with a thickness of 12 ... 15 mm; 18-eye; 19-furnace grate.

Rice. 109. Interior of the stove-heater B.I. Ivanova.

Rice. 110. Section of the stove-heater designed by B.I. Ivanov:
1-furnace with the top casing; 2-setting ring; 3-grate; 4- shortened column body; 5-stones; 6-upper part of the column: 7- door of the heater; 8-pipe valve; 9-bath ceiling; 10-top and bottom metal rings (roofing steel); 11-sealing asbestos cord; 12-exhaust pipe (steel;; 13-mineral wool; 14- nails.

Together with the flue gases, carbon monoxide also escapes, which, when the main valve is closed, can enter the steam room. Such a constructive solution allows you to keep the temperature of the stones and not to remove the coals from the oven before steaming.

Rice. 111. Furnace-heater designed by P.I.Mikhailov: 1-furnace; 2-heater; 3-pipe, 4-blower

The design of the furnace is very simple and consists of a furnace, a heater, a main and an additional pipe. The furnace was welded from sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm, since with a smaller thickness the steel of the furnace will quickly burn out. A small blower is welded separately under the firebox, which is separated from the firebox by a grate. Cast iron grate will last longer, as it is not so exposed to high temperatures. A grate is also installed between the heater and the firebox, which is able to withstand the high temperature and the weight of the stone backfill. The walls of the chamber of a stone clock can be made of thinner steel, but in any case, its thickness should not be less than 3 mm.

Long-lasting stoves Long-lasting stoves don't have to be heat-intensive. The fire in the stove is maintained during the bath procedures, so the heater is constantly heated. Such stoves do not require a large mass of stone filling and are most often used in the construction of family baths. The difference between long-acting stoves and heat-intensive stoves lies in the openly located heater. To maintain the required parameters of the steam-air environment, there is no need to open the doors. An open heater heats up the space of the steam room quite strongly at a lower temperature of the stone backfill. Typically, the temperature of the stone filling in long-term furnaces does not exceed 350-450°C and is controlled by spraying the stones with hot water. The water quickly evaporates with a characteristic hissing sound, covering the body of the bathers in a sultry steam. An open heater heats up the steam room faster, bringing the temperature up to 100°C or more. Therefore, long-acting stoves are preferred by lovers of a dry-air bath (sauna) or a Russian bath with low humidity and high air temperature.

When designing long-acting heaters, craftsmen show miracles of ingenuity and resourcefulness. But the principle of operation of such furnaces ultimately comes down to one thing: flue gases wash the bottom and walls of the stone filling chamber, and, heating them, go into the atmosphere. Stone backfill is in direct contact with the air of the steam room and heats it up to the required temperature. The temperature drop caused by air heating and water evaporation during the formation of steam is compensated by the process of fuel combustion in the furnace.

The most commonly used design of a long-term stove, made of 4 mm thick steel sheets, is shown in Fig. 112. The design of the furnace is very simple. If it is necessary to heat the water for washing, the tank is attached to one of the side or rear walls of the furnace.

The original design of a long-acting stove-heater was installed in his bathhouse by V. Kondratiev (Fig. 113). The difference between this furnace and the previously considered options is the presence of air registers that allow you to collect maximum heat from the furnace. The registers are ordinary pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, built into the furnace body. The air heated in the pipes quickly warms up the steam room to the required temperature. In addition, the registers take on a lot of heat and reduce thermal radiation from the furnace walls. For better heat accumulation in the furnace, its walls are lined with bricks laid on edge. Cold air enters the register pipes from below the floor and, after warming up, exits through the upper holes.

Contrary to the existing opinion that long-acting stoves are best made of metal, original designs of brick stoves have been created that not only heat the steam room, but also adjacent rooms (rest room, shower room). A striking example of such ingenuity is the design of the stove-heater, shown below.

Rice. 112. Continuous oven.
1-blew; 2-furnace body; 3-furnace space; 4-lattice; 5-stones; 6-chimney.

Rice. 113. The device of the furnace with air "registers":
1-heater; 2-hole for a pipe supplying water to the heater; 3-"register"; 4-pipe heat exchanger.

Stove-heater with a lower location of the water tank

This stove differs from the previous ones in that it has a stone chamber with a volume of 50 liters, a large firebox and an additional lower damper to ensure the kindling process. The water tank located at the bottom makes it easier i to fill it with cold water and then draw hot water. The peculiarity of the tank is that it enters the body of the bath at the end, which speeds up the process of heating water. From below and from the sides, the tank is heated by hot flashes from the firebox.

Rice. 114. Optimal placement of the stove with a lower water tank

The optimal placement of the furnace in the bath is shown in Fig. 114.

For laying the proposed furnace, you will need 230 pieces of bricks and steel sheet size 270x270x5 mm. The sheet is needed in order to cover the top of the tank. Otherwise, the bricks (upper rows) will fall on the tank body, which will lead to its deformation.

A feature of this furnace is that when the lower damper is open, the flue gases bypass the lower chimneys and rush directly into the chimney. Therefore, the lower damper should be closed immediately after the stove is kindled, but only when stable combustion is established.

During the laying process, you will need another piece of roofing steel measuring 270x270 mm., Which will need to be placed on the 18th row of the ceiling (upper wall) of the furnace. The appearance of the furnace, projections and ordering of the masonry are shown in fig. 115,116,117, 118.

Rice. 115. Heater stove with bottom tank placement
1-door blower; 2-door firebox; 3-lower damper; 4-tank; 5-top damper; 6-cleaning; 7-slab with stones.

Periodic stoves are most suitable for a family bath, when the duration of the steaming process is short. They are distinguished by greater (approximately 30%), compared with the above options, efficiency, less preparation time for the bath process, since hot gases passing through the stone backfill heat up much faster and more strongly. The temperature of the stone backfill in its lower layers can reach 1000°C, and in the upper layers - 500-600°C. This temperature is quite enough for the soot particles that have settled on the stones to burn out. Therefore, the atmosphere of the steam room is not polluted. In baths that are not equipped with hot water supply, it is possible to embed special registers for heating water. An example of such a heat-intensive stove, designed for a bath for 4-5 people, is a stove designed by L.A. Korobanov and N.I. Samarin (Figure and 101), and the figure, 103, 104, 105 shows the ordinal masonry of this stove.

To build a furnace you will need:

Brick red .................................................. ... 1240 pcs.

Refractory brick .................................................. 250 pcs.

Clay ordinary ............................................... 0, 35 m 3

Clay refractory with chamotte ............................... 120 kg

Ravine sand .................................................................. ..... 0.17 m*

Coil (register) made of steel pipes....................... 1 pc.

Furnace door 400 x 300 mm .............................. 1 pc.

Blower door 200 x 140 mm .............................. 1 pc.

Cleaning door 130 x 130 mm .............................. 1 pc.

Steam door 430 x 360 mm .............................. 1 pc.

Smoke damper 290 x 250 mm .............................. 1 pc.

Grate 430 x 250 mm 1 pc.

Steel strip 500 x 30 mm .............................. 0.75 m

Corner 50 x 50 x 3 mm .............................................. .. 0.75 m

The stove consists of a firebox for firewood and a closed chamber, on the bottom of which a stone backfill is laid. Flue gases, having passed through the stone backfill, enter two downcomers located on the side and are removed through the chimney into the atmosphere. In the upper part of the firebox there is a coil, into which water is supplied by gravity from the tank. When heated, hot water enters the tank through the pipe, from the bottom of which colder water moves into the coil. Thus, with the help of natural circulation, during the heating of the furnace, the amount of water necessary for washing is heated.

A fairly simple design of a periodic metal furnace is shown in the figure. This design does not provide for a container for hot water, but with

it can be built in if necessary. In a metal case with doors, grate bars are laid on the shelves made of angle steel, forming the bottom of the firebox. To reduce the heat of radiation from the walls of the furnace, the firebox is lined with refractory bricks. The bottom of the stone filling chamber is a steel grate laid on the brick lining of the firebox. If there is a need to heat water, then a metal container with water is installed on the cover of the stone filling chamber. Flue gases, passing through the stone backfill and washing the lid, go through the pipe into the atmosphere. Thus, both the stone backfill and the water container installed on the lid are warmed up.

A metal stove can also be with a hot water tank. The simplest design of such a furnace is shown in the figure. The furnace casing measuring 70 x 70 x 170 mm is welded from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm (since thinner sheet steel will burn out quickly). The height of the oven is divided into three zones: the lower one serves as a furnace, the middle one - as a heater, the upper one is for heating water. To reduce thermal radiation from the walls of the furnace, the zone of the firebox and stone filling is lined with red brick laid on the edge. The bottom of the stone backfill can be a powerful grate or steel grate that can withstand the weight of the stone backfill. Water in a container with a lid is heated by flue gases passing through a steel chimney.

The bulk of the flue gas heat is taken away by stone filling, so the water in the tank is not brought to a boil. Steam is obtained by pouring hot water over the heater through a 200 x 200 mm door located on the side of the stone backfill. The design of the furnace is so simple that it can be made at home, subject to the skill of welding and the availability of the necessary equipment. the figure shows a stove with a hot water tank designed by P. Mlysenko, the principle of operation of which is similar to the above described option.

The original design of the stove-heater was built by B.I. Ivanov for his bath with a steam room 2 x 2 m. An old, outdated, wood-burning column for heating water was chosen as the basis for the stove (Figure and 110). Having cut off the top (by 250-300 mm) and the bottom at the column, the central pipe is removed. At the cut top

Stove for a bath with a tank P.M Lysenko (dimensions in mm): 1 - chimney with a diameter of 120 ... 150 mm; 2 - brick pipe; 3 - valve; 4 - a platform measuring 300 x 300 mm for a brick pipe; 5 - tank for hot water; 6 - ring made of steel strip; 7 - plug valve dy = 19 mm (3/4 "); 8 - door measuring 250 x 300 mm; 9 - heater; 10 - door with a latch; 11 - blower; 12 - window; 13 - tank cover; 14 - cover with a handle; 15 - a steel circle to the tank; 16 - a lattice of reinforcing bars; 17 - a plate with a thickness of 12 ... 15 mm; 18 - an eyelet; 19 - a furnace grate

a hole is cut out for the door of the heater with a size of 65 x 150 mm, a door is made of roofing iron and put in its place so that it can be removed during the operation of the stove. The column is adjusted to the height of the steam room so that its upper part can be removed if necessary. A powerful metal grate is installed above the firebox, capable of withstanding the high temperature and the severity of the stone backfill. The column is installed in place, filled with stone and connected to the chimney. A smoke damper is placed between the column and the pipe so that the furnace cools down more slowly. When installing the heater, make sure that the door for the stone filling is located in such a way as to prevent burns of the steamer when pouring water on the heater. The jet of steam should exit in the direction opposite to the steam room. The removable top of the heater will allow you to periodically remove the stones for inspection, cleaning and replacement.

A metal stove-heater of periodic action designed by P.I.Mikhailov (Figure) provides for the option of removing flue gases when the bath is already heated, and the firewood has not yet burned out. To do this, the designer laid an additional chimney, which is closed during the heating of the bath and opens only when the bath is heated and the main valve closes. This is done so that in the process of burning out the wood, the flue gases, which no longer have a high temperature, do not cool the stones of the heater. Together with the flue gases, carbon monoxide also escapes, which, when the main valve is closed, can enter the steam room. Such a constructive solution allows you to keep the temperature of the stones and not to remove the coals from the oven before steaming. The design of the furnace is very simple and consists of a furnace, a heater, a main and an additional pipe. The furnace was welded from sheet steel with a thickness of 4-5 mm, since with a smaller thickness the steel of the furnace will quickly burn out. A small blower is welded separately under the firebox, which is separated from the firebox by a grate. Cast iron grate will last longer, as it is weakly exposed to high temperatures. A grate is also installed between the heater and the firebox, which is able to withstand the high temperature and the weight of the stone backfill. The walls of the stone filling chamber can be made of thinner steel, but in any case its thickness should not be less than 3 mm.

What is a cottage without a bath? Well, what is a bathhouse without hot steam?

That's right - the stove should become the basis of the bath, but what it should be is a big question. We asked them a few years ago, when we were just planning a stove or a fireplace for the house (), when we were thinking about building a bathhouse. Personally, as a person who is not so enlightened, I liked compact metal stoves more (by the way, you can also have a large selection of bath stoves). As a last resort, I was ready to overlay it with bricks. Still, metal is metal, and new technologies are new technologies.

The opponent was my wife, who had more practical experience communication with sauna stoves. In her opinion, during direct washing, the stove should not be heated, this is nonsense. We had time to make a decision, we consulted with friends, read articles. In the end, they persuaded me and I agreed to a brick oven, because it has many advantages (we will talk about them a little later).

In a video filmed at the beginning of 2016, Mikhail talks about our sauna stove. Another video was made about our fireplace in the house,

But what I definitely didn’t like about traditional Russian wood-burning stoves was that they needed to be heated for much longer. After all, as you want, you arrived on Friday evening at the dacha, flooded the bathhouse, took a steam bath and continue to spend the evening languidly, and you don’t look after midnight when this bathhouse will finally heat up.

But then it turned out that here, too, a compromise could be reached. In one of the conversations with Mikhail Hyakkinen (I talked a lot about him in the article about the fireplace and chimney built by him and his guys in our house - a story about it), he proposed this compromise option, the so-called russauna, when in brick oven the stones are not located in a traditional closed chamber and smoke from the firebox passes through them. V new design, the stones were located openly and were separated from the firebox by a thick sheet of metal (see the example on the right in the photo - but this is NOT our stove!).

In fact, those stones that are visible in the photo on the right are decorative, those that really heat up are hidden in the depths of the furnace. But you can also pour water on them (through a square funnel in the center - see photo), and steam will come out of two tubes to the left and right of the funnel (the tubes are not visible, they are covered with stones).

Such a brick oven heated up faster, but its heat capacity was less, and it had to be continued to be heated during the washing process. An even bigger problem could be that if you do not heat the stove, then the stones can be poured (and there will be no steam), and if you heat it up, then overheating can occur and cracks will appear.

After a little more hesitation, we settled on the classic scheme of the Russian stove-heater, but with minor improvements proposed by Mikhail. Its full name sounds like this: a wood-burning stove with periodic action, and at the end of the article we have given useful instructions for its operation. By the way, Mikhail Hyakkinen is not only a member of the Guild of stove-makers and chimney-sweeps of St. Petersburg and the region, he conducts classes with young stove-makers, which is very pleasant.

This is how the project of our stove looked like, which we saw during the elaboration of details.

Let us explain that the classical scheme of the stove-heater assumes that:

• the whole oven is made of bricks (more precisely, we had 4 types of bricks, but more on that later);
• stones that accumulate energy are located in a closed area, combined with a firebox. Smoke passes through them, so you can use the bath only when the stove is extinguished;
• we wanted to make the chimney out of brick and stand alone, so that in the future, I hope very soon, it would be possible to sort out the stove without altering the chimney (this was the wife’s wish, it is vital and quite pragmatic).

We decided on the terms, Misha gave us the exact dimensions of the opening. In principle, he could make a cut in the wall himself, but this is a very time-consuming and responsible job, therefore, if possible, he asked to involve the carpenters of Log Russia. There were no problems with this, the company's management and especially its gene. director Denis Migachev always meets the needs of his customers in such matters. Well, we didn’t even have to ask separately, because just at that time the masters of Russia were engaged in warming and sheathing the ceilings in the house, finishing the trailer and building a woodshed - more about that.

How the wall looked before and after sawing can be seen in the next photo. Do not be surprised by the color of the walls in the left photo - the picture was taken before sanding and painting the walls of the bath. There was another subtle moment with the cut of the opening. Mikhail asked the architect who designed the bath to find out if it was possible to saw out the first lower log of the wall. I contacted Lyudmila Pushkareva, the architect of Russia Log, and received from her the go-ahead to drink the lower log. Please note that in your situation it may not be possible to do this - be careful. In principle, this is not so scary, just the bricks in this case will, as it were, go around the remaining log.

Two angles on the wall before and after sawing an opening in the wall for the stove. By the way, such sawing is a rather difficult task, and although the stove-makers can do it themselves, I recommend that you ask the carpenters, the company that made the log house for you, if possible.

Initially, Mikhail asked me to organize the pouring of the foundation for the furnace on my own, since all his masters were busy, but later he met us halfway and did all the work himself, for which I am especially grateful to him. The foundation was a little tricky. Since part of the stove will have to protrude into the living room, and therefore be located on the main strip foundation baths, then we had to rigidly connect the poured foundation of the furnace with the existing foundation of the bath.

To do this, the guys drilled more than fifty holes in concrete, inserted rebar into them and connected it with metal frame new foundation.

More than fifty holes in the concrete foundation of the bath...

In the photo above you can see a palisade of holes made using a professional puncher - a household tool would not help here.

In the next photo, master stove-maker Igor Ilyin is twisting rebar with annealed wire. By the way, I know Igor very well from the work of the previous year, when he, together with a colleague, built a fireplace for us. We were very pleased with their work and were very pleased when Mikhail entrusted him with the installation of our sauna stove.

Unfortunately, there will be some gaps in time in our story, since we ourselves worked and could only come on weekends. Therefore, in the next photo you can see the finished poured foundation. Of course, the foundation was conceived a little wider than the base of the furnace itself, because we will still need to lay the floor beams, and in general, from the point of view of reliability and stability, it is better to make the foundation area a little larger than the furnace itself.

It fell into the frame, so I can not say. After all, we want to have in the bath not only functionality, but also joy for the soul, so it is not surprising that masters try to decorate stoves, even brick ones. We'll talk about this later, but for now close-up showing special finishing bricks for decorative shelves. Few stove-makers have such technologies, since this requires the purchase of specialized equipment, and a long, dusty job of cutting out such figured bricks.

Igor Ilyin once said that they played a trick on the tilers with whom they worked at one of the objects. The tiler, picking up such a right brick, asked admiringly, how did you do it. Yes, simply, Igor answered, they took the grinder and removed everything superfluous, he looked at Igor with undisguised respect. Anyone who has ever tried to cut or grind something with a grinder will understand the class of this joke.

These beautiful embossed bricks will be used in the decoration of the bath. To make the right one with a figured bend, the guys had to buy a whole machine, but it's worth it.

In the next photo, we see how our furnace began to grow. Of course, first waterproofing was spread on the concrete (we used the remnants of meltable waterproofing that was left from the roof of the woodshed). Since the first rows of bricks are not yet exposed to high temperatures and will not be visible after the flooring, the guys used an inexpensive draft red brick, later you will see all the brick options in close-up.

For inquisitive minds who, like me, want to know everything, I present a selection of photographs of all 4 types of used bricks, and at the same time the means for gluing them. Perhaps the masters used other compositions.

All types of bricks used in the construction of the furnace.

On our next visit, the stove began to take on recognizable features, in the photo below you can see the underskirt of dark brown brick, although now the color is hard to see - this is the lowest level of the visible part of the stove, the rest will be hidden in the floor.

In addition, we see two openings on the front side of the furnace: the left elongated one is for the future blower, and the right square one is for the revision door of the chimney base. In the center of the furnace (when viewed from above), one can see how refractory bricks began to be used - the laying out of the furnace body began from it.

You have probably already noticed the strips of thin insulation. By the way, this is one of Mikhail's know-how. This insulation is used to separate the super-hot furnace part and the cold facing part. The traditional layout used a much thicker layer of air space for thermal insulation. The same insulation is laid between the stove and wooden walls.

Please note in the following photo that on the left and right between the main body of the furnace, chopped walls are laid along a row of bricks (in half a brick). This is also done in terms of fire safety engineering.

The previous photo shows a view of the stove from the steam room. We see that the main volume of the stove is located in the steam room, and only a thin front part goes into the living room, well, this is understandable - we want to steam in the steam room.

In the next photo we can see the second master - Vsevolod, who, together with Igor, built our beautiful stove. The photo caught the master in the process of cutting heat-resistant bricks. Such a machine, where there is convenient devices for smooth and parallel feeding of bricks, where the cutter is constantly cooled by water (which, by the way, significantly reduces the formation of dust) allow you to cut bricks evenly with an accuracy of a millimeter.

The second hero of our events is Vsevolod, Igor's partner.

In the next photo, we have a pipe elbow that will be used to heat water. Of course, an electric boiler could also be used, but when there is such a stove, it becomes unreasonable. In the end, it will be possible to simply wash in the shower in the house.

In the photo we can see how Igor carefully attaches bricks to secure this pipe.

In the next photo you can see in more detail the design of this stove-heater. The narrow passage on the right is the future chimney. Hot air from the furnace will rise through the stones to the top of the stove, and then it will descend again to the floor just along one of the parts of the chimney. Then, of course, it will again rise up, going into the pipe. By the way, this is one of the significant advantages of brick ovens compared to metal ones, where the coefficient of heat removal from combustion products is significantly lower.

In the left, wider part of the interior of the furnace, there is a firebox. Burning firewood will at the same time heat the water in the tank with the help of a pipe, which we talked about a little higher. It is clearly seen that on the left and on the right, the insulation is still thrown to the side. Later, it will all be sandwiched between the two circuits of the furnace - internal high-temperature and external - low-temperature.

By the way, an interesting phenomenon of this particular design of the Russian brick stove. We are all used to the fact that in the process of heating the walls of the stove heat up and radiate pleasant heat. Here the idea is somewhat different. During the heating of the stove (in time it can take from 3-4 hours, see the instructions at the end), the outer walls of the stove remain almost cold, all the energy is accumulated in the inner contour of the stove and in the stones.

Heat transfer to the external circuit is prevented by the design of the heater, including the insulation described above. But on the other hand, when the stove is heated, it can heat up the entire space around within just 10-20 minutes due to the steam that simply escapes from the stove door in the steam room. How to heat this stove, we will talk in detail - this is extremely important, but now let's pay attention to the following photo, where the opening of the chopped walls is sealed and closed from the stove masonry with insulation.

The next photo shows a small sketch that caught my attention. Such a trapezoidal drank of bricks (moreover, the brick was also sawn in half lengthwise), shows the level of skill of the stove-makers - this is really filigree work.

The following photo shows the fitting of a special tunnel to protect the firebox. The tunnel is made of stainless steel 1 mm thick and is not only and not so much a decoration of the firebox as its protection. Bricks of the outer (facing) contour of the furnace require protection, because they are not designed for ultra-high temperatures. This technology came to us from Finland five years ago, where it has been known for thirty years. This is also one of the know-how used by Mikhail in this furnace design. Other master stove-makers, who did not install such structures at one time, were forced to return to their customers six months later to repair (replace) the side bricks of the outer contour.

After fitting, the tunnel was removed and finally installed before the direct installation of the door.

Igor is, of course, a very experienced stove-maker, but Mikhail Hyakkinen himself arrived to perform one of the most responsible and design operations. With the help of an ordinary grinder and dark brown bricks, he created just such a small miracle that adorned the top of the firebox.

Mikhail Hyakkinen joined in to carry out the most responsible and creative stage.

How it began to look live, you can see in the next two photos. Of course, this decorated the stove and gave it individuality. In general, when we were just discussing the design of the stove, Mikhail suggested decorating the top front side kilns carved panels of bricks. We even picked up a sample drawing in the form of a boat. A little later, we considered this to be overkill and overkill for our not very large stove, but in principle, even such a finish is possible, keep this in mind and do not limit your imagination.

In the next photos you can see how beautifully the beautiful headboard of the stove made by Mikhail fit in. In the photo below, by the way, you can see what the junction of the inner and outer contours of the furnace looks like, later it will be hidden by the stainless steel tunnel shown earlier.

Our furnace is growing, rushing along the threads stretched as plumb-guides. Do not be surprised that now the bricks are not so presentable appearance, then everything will be washed off, all the seams will be beautifully smoothed and you will get sweetie.

The first front shelf has already appeared, including two levels of dark brown bricks with beautifully sawn bevels (the lower row is straight bevels, the upper row is curved bevels).

But this shelf carries not only decorative functions (after all, it will be possible to put something beautiful on it), but allows you to move to another level in the vertical plane, as if approaching the wall. This will be clearly seen later in the photo of the stove, taken a little from the side. The previous photo clearly shows how the chimney split into two narrower channels, which we talked about earlier.

In the next photo, the angle is taken a little lower and we see the metal furnace protection tunnel returned to its place.

Another time shift and we are already seeing the beginning of the formation of a single rear opening through which we will throw water and get the desired hot steam. From this point, the bifurcation of the chimney is also visible (on the left in the photo).

A little more time passed and Igor and Vsevolod reached the roof, or rather, the beginning of a brick pipe had already appeared. In fact, the organization of the so-called headroom, i.e. the exit of the pipe through the roof is a very important and complex element. Especially in a wooden log house or sauna (subject to shrinkage and roof shifts) and especially for a tiled roof. But last year I was personally convinced of the skill of Igor and the technologies he uses, so I didn’t worry much about this design in the bath.

So a brick pipe appeared above the roof, and it is convenient to get on the roof of the bathhouse from the flat roof of the woodcutter.

Moreover, this time the guys did not have to create puzzling structures to get on the roof of the bathhouse (unlike the roof of the house, see the previous article about the ceramic chimney). It so happened that just a few weeks before this, the masters of Russia Log built us a wonderful woodshed, which even a separate article is devoted to.

If the pipe has already appeared above the roof, then what awaits us in the bath itself? Let's get a look. The brick part of the stove is completely ready, it remains to install only the cast-iron elements. By the way, the masters used Finnish oven doors, unfortunately ours are inferior to them, both in design and in quality of workmanship. The following photo shows both parts of the stove at this point. The right picture was taken from the washroom.

The brick part of the furnace is completely ready, it remains to install only the cast-iron doors.

A few words about the passage of the roof, about the chimney and stoves in general.

Today you can order any stove for a bath, for every taste and, as they say, a wallet. Someone will choose an inexpensive metal potbelly stove with a basket of stones around a steel sandwich chimney, and someone will choose a tiled brick stove with a ceramic chimney and soapstone cladding in the steam room. The main thing here is to have an intelligent adviser who would honestly, without concealment, tell about all the advantages, disadvantages, and of course about the price.

When we decided on the type of stove and chimney, we talked with friends and acquaintances (special thanks to Denis Migachev and his wife), read articles in magazines and on thematic forums, visited construction exhibitions and collected advertising information from manufacturers. But of course, we received the most information from Mikhail, and in the course of a year and a half of communication with him on this topic, we changed our priorities more than once.

In the end, we settled on a traditional Russian wood-fired stove. Its advantages include: high efficiency, high heat capacity, the ability to keep warm for a long time and dry the bath after taking wet procedures, which is very important for a wooden structure.

The wife immediately rejected the opportunity to put a steel chimney-pipe made of two-layer sandwich blocks on it. Also, her requirement was to place the chimney separately on the foundation, and not the stove itself. True, we still had to come to a compromise, and the chimney turned out to be connected with the main body of the stove, but otherwise the stove would have acquired completely unimaginable dimensions. Looking at the photo, I understand that it will be very difficult to remake the stove without dismantling the chimney, but Mikhail said that it is possible, we believe him as a professional.

Why is a brick, and even better - freestanding, chimney an advantage? The fact is that brick chimneys live much longer than brick stoves. And, by the way, of course, brick, and ceramic chimneys are better, they live longer than steel ones. Here the price already plays a role, whether you are able to afford it now. If you can, choose more reliable and durable materials.

We are of course sure that the oven is made of quality bricks skillful specialists will last a very long time, but God saves the careful.

But back to our chimney. in the next photo we see it from the side of the steam room. Please note that the two lower chimney bricks in the photo have rounded edges, and above they are already rectangular. When I saw this, I sadly said to Igor, well, did they regret for me a dozen more rounded bricks? He replied that no - that's how it was intended. It just turns out to be easier to beat the pipe with a regular square shape with a ceiling, and not with rounded edges. I agree, I said, because just recently the carpenters of Russia finished the ceiling in the house () and faced similar problems.

Well, I say, why do right angles start so low - much lower than the ceiling beam (this can be clearly seen in the photo below)? This is to account for shrinkage - Igor answered. Exactly, I thought, I completely forgot about shrinkage. Still, it’s good to deal with stove-makers, who work a lot in wooden chopped houses and baths. They know all the specifics of the behavior of the log house, and this is extremely important.

View of the chimney from the steam room. The guys had to form a ceiling beam (1) and fix it on a newly installed board (2).

Well, two more words on the picture above. It was not in vain that we numbered the beam (1) and the piece of rafter (2). You probably already understand that before the ceiling beam 1 went further and rested on the wall. In order to remain able to properly place the ceiling of the steam room, the guys cut beam 1 and placed a piece of board (50 mm thick - the remainder of the rafters) at odds with neighboring beams. The beam was already fixed to this board, everything is simple and reliable.

Could the chimney be placed between the ceiling beams, you ask? It is possible, of course, but in this case we would have already rested against the supporting roof rafters, and this is already more serious. Neither I nor the guys wanted to seriously disassemble the roof and saw through the rafters. Therefore, initially, when designing the furnace, Mikhail Hyakkinen studied for a very long time where and how the rafters pass. Experienced developers will immediately ask how it was possible to see the rafters, because the ceiling is already sewn up (that's what I asked Misha), but he showed me to the side outer overhangs of the roof and there, in the gaps of the cladding from the boards, one could clearly understand where the rafters. Century - live, century - learn, as they say.

Finishing touches on the exterior of the chimney pipe.

In the previous and next photos you can see how the formation of an important part of the chimney - the outer one - was completed. Taking into account that the chimney is made of brick, we, on the advice of Misha, decided to cover it in a metal shell, which at the same time will solve the issue of waterproofing. The metal plate (the base of the chimney frame) goes under the ridge tiles from above. This is perhaps the most reliable way protect the roof from leaking, with the most unpredictable deformations and shrinkage of the log house.

In the photo below, the appearance of the resulting bathhouse. By the way, a few words about the remnants of the film, which flutter at the entrance. Keep in mind that oven work, and especially when installing brick ovens, is quite dirty work. And although the guys did everything extremely carefully, just in case, we made a whole corridor of film protection that covered the outer and internal walls bath house. Now the photo is no longer the entire film, before it was much more.

This is how a bathhouse with a pipe from the stove acquired - quite nice. By the way, pay attention to the film that protected the logs of the walls from dirt and dust near the entrance.

The time has come to describe the results of the final events. All the doors were installed, by the way, to my surprise they were put on self-tapping screws screwed directly into the brick. This is much more reliable than the old-fashioned methods, when the doors were screwed to a wire sandwiched between bricks, due to which the fastening of the doors loosened sooner or later.

In addition, two chimney dampers were installed. Two, because they duplicate each other, for even better closing of the chimney and preventing heat leakage. The guys stuffed a whole mountain of large fragments of soapstone into the stone placement area (see the sidebar with the open door in the photo below), however, Misha then removed some of them, saying that the best is the enemy of the good.

Close-up valves are shown in the next photo. Notice how the top three layers of bricks look different from the rest of the underlying rows of bricks in the next photo. This is called presale preparation. The guys manually washed the bricks with rags, polished each seam with special hooks, and the stove, of course, played in a completely different way.

A metal plate has appeared on the ceiling around the chimney, which covers a wider opening cut into the wood. This prevents the insulation from falling out of the roofing cake. By the way, there is about the construction of the roof of this bath.

A tank for hot water has already been made and hung, divorced, but all the fittings have not yet been fixed. The only initial tank of 80 liters seemed to us not very large, although Mikhail said that 80 liters of boiling water is enough for a family. But the desire of the customer is the law, so after a while we got a tank of 150 liters, of course, with a corresponding surcharge on our part. Therefore, our advice is to discuss this issue right away, with us it remained somehow not comprehended, apparently there were many other issues to be resolved.

By the way, in the new tank, I asked to make two more inlet fittings. One - for more convenient filling of water into the tank (in the first version, this could only be done by removing the tank cover), and the second - to control the overflow of the tank. The following photo shows all the connections in the hot water system. The guys used a novelty - a corrugated steel tube - it is very durable and can easily withstand high temperatures - I liked it.

And in the next photo - a close-up of a stainless steel tank with a volume of another 80 liters. It was good for everyone, only the volume seemed small to us, perhaps we are playing it safe, but let it be more than less, since there was a place to place it.

A few more words about the tank. In principle, it is possible to place this tank outside the washing room, for example, under the roof. See if this is more convenient for you. We consider the tank as additional source heat in the washroom, so that suits us for now.

Now a very important point, if you look at the photo below, you will see that the tank is crying from the level where cold water is filled. Everything would be fine, but this moisture is not very good for chopped wooden walls, but by the way - for any walls. Therefore, the tank must be separated from the wall with some kind of gasket, we decided to use two planks as it.

Looking ahead a little, we will show the last element of the heating system - a direct piece of pipe located in the furnace. As you can see, the doors are already installed here. The firebox turned out to be very comfortable - long and spacious, there are no problems with the length of the logs. By the way, the guys said that if the water in your sauna stove heats up very quickly, then you can put a small steel screen in the furnace, which will reduce the heat approach to our heat exchanger in the form of a pipe.

Let's take a look at what the stove has become from the side of the rest room. The only unpleasant moment for me is that at the time when the campaign will gather in this room, it will not be possible to admire the fire through the glass of the firebox. Well, it's definitely not a problem to worry about. After all, there is a fireplace in the house for this.

Let's take a closer look at the controls of our stove. At the top we see the main furnace door, where we put firewood. The door has its own means of controlling the access of air. To do this, in the lower part, under the glass, there is a special handle, unscrewing which we supply oxygen to the furnace. This is an alternative to an open firebox as it is safer.

Let me remind you that all stove fittings are made in Finland, you should not save on this. The handle is comfortable, very functional, the door around the perimeter has a sealing cord.

In the next photo, on the left side we see an open blower door and a closed revision cover, on the right side of the photo it is the other way around.

So, the left door, called, if I'm not mistaken, a blower, is designed to organize the main flow of oxygen into the furnace. In addition, ash and small coals fall through the cast-iron grate (grate), which connects the blower itself with the firebox, as it burns out. The blower door in this version also has a control handle, with which you can move the duplicate blower door and open vertical slots. This can finely regulate the supply of oxygen.

The right door is designed for cleaning the chimney. It has no loops, but is simply removed and put on. You will have to open it extremely rarely, although thanks to the advice of the stove-makers, you had to once.

So, if after a long standing without work in the furnace there is suddenly no draft at all, then, most likely, a so-called air lock has formed inside the chimney. I'm not kidding. Since, after installing the stove, it had to be periodically heated a little, on one of these visits (the weather was very damp) I was faced with the fact that I could not ignite the firebox. A lot of newspapers and egg packages were worn out (take note - this is a very good tool for lighting stoves and fireplaces), but the chips did not want to flare up.

I already wondered if the birds had built their nest in the chimney. He climbed onto the roof, looked outside and looked in the chimney with his hand - everything seems to be clean. What to do? Call a friend!, as stated in the well-known program.

To my question, Mikhail, with his characteristic calmness, answered that this could be due to the air traffic jams mentioned above. What to do with them, I asked. Everything is very simple. he answered, just open this inspection door of the chimney, place a newspaper there and set fire to it. Hot air pushes the cork out and everything falls into place. Approximately as shown in the following photo with a furnace flame.

The first time we did a test fire ourselves - this should be done a couple of weeks after the furnace was made, so that the bricks are smoothly freed from moisture.

In 2012, there was only one not fully resolved issue with the door in the steam room, but it was also resolved by Mikhail a little later in the time agreed with me. So, more about this problem.

In principle, this is the problem of all Russian stoves with a compartment for stones. The problem is that stones pick up moisture, even from the air. When you start heating, the moisture from them evaporates, accumulates in the air and tries to condensate on the most chilled surfaces, which is the cast-iron door and its fixed body on the steam room side. This leads to the fact that when you open this door, droplets of this soot-black liquid begin to flow down the oven wall.

I was warned about this, so at first we left a strip of insulation that absorbed this condensate. But it's also unhealthy. First, not everyone is so neat. Secondly, this gasket crushes the sealing cord that is placed on the door. In short, it's not good.

But, serious specialists are specialists in order to solve all problems. As Mikhail said, they raised this issue at the Guild of Stove Makers and jointly found a solution. To do this, a small tray is installed at the bottom of the door, where this liquid will drain (after all, there is not so much of it). A little later in the fall, we called him up and he said that he had ordered such trays, including for us. We are not in a hurry, so you can safely do it somewhere in May, according to the heat.

Addition from 2013 - Mikhail, as always, fulfilled his promise, so we provide two photos of the mentioned tray, see below.

An additional tray under the door in the steam room - it will prevent condensate from draining along with soot.

As soon as the tray was installed, we immediately posted a photo of it, since the problem is really important and not everyone knows how to solve it. I even heard stories when customers had to paint the brick in the steam room (I mean, the whole oven in the steam room) to hide these black drips. In the next photo - the tray is shown as detailed as possible.

Let's take a closer look at the miracle tray (photo from 2013)

And now let's go back to 2012 and admire the play of fire in the furnace. Of course, since while washing in the bath we still won’t see the fire, we could limit ourselves to the traditional pure cast-iron door, but in my opinion, glass gives both convenience (you don’t need to open and see how things are going there) and the joy of contemplation tongues of flame.

In conclusion, we will give an extremely useful instruction on the use of this type of oven, prepared at my request by Mikhail. The fact is that between the construction of the furnace and the beginning of its active operation, enough long time and some details of the kindling rules may be erased from the memory of customers. Then you will wait a long time for the outer lining of the stove to become hot, throwing up and throwing stacks of firewood hour after hour. Turns out it was much easier...

Instruction manual for the heater with intermittent action.

Ignition:

Open all valves on the pipe, furnace.

Put the paper on top of the paper dry splinter of wood. Lay medium-sized firewood on top of the splinter.

Ignite, the blower door is fully open.

After waiting for the kindling to fully flare up, put 3/4 of the entire volume of the combustion chamber into the firebox.

The duration of heating is 3-3.5 hours, if it is required to heat the entire volume of the hot water tank. If the tank is more than half filled with water, then the heating can be reduced to 3 hours.

In the process of heating the furnace, the blower door is covered, but not hermetically. The blinds at the door are also open.

When the last bookmark burns out and there is no flame in the furnace, but only a large number of bright red coals, the valves on the furnace should be closed by 90%.

After when only ash with small red coals remains in the firebox, you should take a metal scoop, poker, metal bucket and remove all residues from the firebox.

After that, open the blower door completely, wide open and open the double door in the steam room. At this point, the temperature in the steam room will be forced up. From practice: in the steam room after 3 hours of heating, the temperature is 40-45 gr. The oven bricks are slightly warm. After opening the steam door after 20-25 minutes, the temperature in the steam room rises to 75-80 degrees, which is normal for a Russian steam room.

At this moment, not only the walls of the steam room are heated, but the bricks are heated from the outer plane of the heater, because. The brick kiln is built with a two-circuit system and for a period of 3-4 hours, the heating of the total mass of the kiln does not occur. Full heating of the furnace is achieved in 1-2 hours after closing all valves.

Stone preparation:

Open all valves at the furnace. Open the steam door, if it is closed, take a small amount of water (1/3) of a glass into the ladle, splash it on the stones and immediately close the door. Use felt gloves to protect your hands. Repeat the procedure 4-5 times, splashing water in different corners of the stone backfill. Close all valves, open the steam room door.

It is necessary to start bathing procedures when all the shelves and benches have warmed up and the temperature in the steam room will be about 70-75 degrees (normal temperature for a Russian steam room).

The next day in the steam room the temperature is 40-50 degrees, the stones are still hissing and you can continue bathing procedures.

This concludes our story about the Russian sauna stove.

When choosing a stove for a bath, some owners opt for the simplest and cheapest options. These can be home-made steel or cast-iron purchased units. But many people prefer to build a traditional brick stove-heater in the bath. For masonry work, either they invite a stove-maker with a certain work experience, or they build a stove with their own hands.

In the second case, a thorough study of the masonry technology, a competent choice of a heating installation project, a study of orders and other drawings are necessary. In addition, you will need skills in working with construction tools.

Basic rules for laying the foundation

The construction of a brick sauna stove begins with the construction of a foundation. A pit is being prepared for it, the depth of which should be greater than the depth of freezing of the soil. On average, this is 700 mm.

Attention! In the lowest part, the width of the pit should exceed the width of the main excavation. Such a measure will avoid problems that may arise during soil movements.

A tightly compacted sand cushion 150 mm thick is laid at the bottom of the pit. Sand is spilled with water, and then it is covered with a layer of broken stone and brick 200 mm thick. A crushed stone layer is poured on top. Formwork is installed on the base and the reinforcing cage is laid.

The prepared form is poured into the formwork. concrete mix. After the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed. The space in which the formwork boards were located is covered with fine gravel mixed with sand. The surface of the foundation is treated with several layers of tar. Two layers of roofing material are laid on top.

Masonry mortar preparation

The first to erect a wall, called a protective one. It serves to protect the bath room from fire. For the construction of this wall, brick is used, which is fastened with a cement-sand mortar. For laying the remaining structural components of the furnace, only clay-sand mortar is used.

Attention! Clay for masonry mortar should be taken at a depth that is equal to or greater than half a meter.

In a special container, clay is soaked with water for one to two days. After that, the clay is thoroughly mixed. Cleaned from foreign inclusions and sifted sand is mixed with clay in equal proportions.

Advice! Masonry mortar is considered ready if it does not have lumps and has the consistency of sour cream.

Do not prepare the solution immediately in full, as it quickly thickens, losing its performance. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare a clay-sand mortar in small portions.

Structurally, according to the operating modes, brick ovens for a bath are divided into the following types: heating installations of periodic and continuous action.

Design features of batch furnaces

A batch brick oven is a heating installation with a closed firebox. For baths designed for use by one family, it is the most common type of heating installations. In such heat generators, stones are heated by flue gases passing through the heater and by the firebox itself. The heating of the stones is carried out in this case very quickly. "Heat reserve" lasts up to 2 days.

Attention! In the bath heating installations with a closed firebox, the lower layer of stones warms up to almost 1000 0 С, the upper one - up to 600 0 С.

Due to direct contact with smoke, the stones are covered with a layer of soot. Therefore, you can use the sauna room only after the fuel has completely burned out, that is, 3-5 hours after kindling. Connoisseurs of traditions prefer brick ovens for a Russian bath of periodic action for steam with a characteristic aroma. Although in such a steam room, a certain portion of combustion products enters the lungs of its visitors.

There is another nuance to using periodic ovens. When steam is generated, the stones cool more and more, and the replenishment of the thermal reserve does not occur. Therefore, the longer you use such a steam room, the weaker the steam becomes. To reduce such an unpleasant effect, 30-40 kg of stones must be provided for 1m 3 of the steam room. In general, up to 300 kg of stones can be used in a batch brick kiln.

Stoves for a bath from a brick of constant action

The design of heat generators with an open heater is more complex in execution. But the steam is thick and strong and, at the same time, clean air is preserved in the bath room.

In an open heater, stones are stacked over the firebox, while they are completely fenced off from fire and combustion products. Such heat generators quickly heat up the room, but keep the heat for a short time. Therefore, they have to be heated during the entire time of using the steam room.

Advice! To increase the heating rate of stones, scrap metal is added to the bottom layer - steel or cast iron.

Settings continuous action require two times less stones compared to batch heat generators. Too thick a layer of cobblestones does not warm up well and the upper stones do not gain sufficient temperature to produce high-quality steam.

Only an experienced craftsman can build a brick oven in a bath with an open heater, who will also help you choose the most efficient stove design.

There are several ways to improve the heating of stones with the same fuel consumption:

• Building a smoke barrier. In order for the outgoing smoke to give up part of its heat reserve to the heater, a brick barrier is built along the way of its exit. Thanks to this constructive solution near the heater, the gases slow down and give off heat to the stones.
• For maximum contact of the heated smoke with the heater, the cavity of the bowl for stones is made beveled at an angle of 45 0 to the horizon.

In the Kuragin brick sauna stove, a cast-iron bowl for stones is made in the form of a drop. Smoke, bypassing a brick barrier, finds itself in a closed space, in which its movement is greatly slowed down. The gases almost completely give up their heat to the stone bowl lowered there.

The firebox is made of refractory bricks and has a slot vault for stone filling. The slot width is 5–8 cm. For. the strength of the furnace is finished with steel corners.

The stone chamber has two doors, often chimneys are made to pass flue gases from the space around the channel to the lower part of the stone chamber.

Foundation. The construction of a massive brick stove-heater begins with the installation of its foundation. So that the furnace does not settle and does not tilt due to moistening or freezing of the soil, the foundation is deepened by at least 0.5 m. Its transverse dimensions should be larger than that of the furnace by 1 brick (half a brick in each direction ). The distance from the foundation of the furnace to the foundation of the wall is at least 5 cm. The gap between them is filled with sand. The bottom of the pit is rammed and leveled.

The best foundation is concrete or rubble concrete. In dry soil, it can be made of bricks using lime, cement or lime-cement mortar.

Lime mortar is prepared from slaked lime and sifted sand, taken in a ratio of 1:2 to 1:3. Cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is usually 1: 3) is prepared in small portions in order to have time to use it before setting. To prepare a lime-cement mortar, take 1-2 hours of lime and 6-16 hours of sand for 1 hour of cement, depending on the brand of cement and the fat content of lime. The surface of the foundation is poured cement mortar, leveled with a rail and covered with waterproofing, usually roofing felt or roofing material in 2 layers.

Masonry material. The main material for laying furnaces is an ordinary solid brick of the 1st grade.

It is not allowed to use perforated and silicate bricks, as they quickly collapse. Hard-melting and refractory bricks are recommended for laying and lining the furnace firebox. Hard-fusible bricks are suitable for burning firewood, refractory (fireclay) - for burning hard coal, liquid fuel, gas. Often furnaces are built from used bricks. They must be cleaned of mortar and soot. They should be laid with the smoky side inward, otherwise rusty soot spots will come out even through plaster and whitewash. Before use, bricks (except for refractory and refractory ones) are immersed in water for 1–1.5 minutes, since dry brick dehydrates the mortar and reduces its binding capacity.

The mortar for laying the furnace is prepared from clay and sand, taken in a ratio of 1:1 to 1:2, depending on the fat content of the clay. Clay should be soaked 1 day before laying. Then water is added to it in such an amount that, after mixing, a creamy mass is obtained. This mass is filtered through a sieve, the same amount of sand is added and mixed thoroughly. The sand must be passed through a 1.5 mm sieve. If watery areas (lakes) appear on the surface of the solution, then add sand and mix the mass again. A good solution does not contain lumps, has a rough surface, does not stick to a shovel and is easily squeezed out of the masonry seam when you press the brick with your hand. For laying refractory and refractory bricks, a solution of clay and mountain sand or fireclay is used.

Seams. The main requirement for masonry is to ensure the tightness of the seams so that even a small amount of combustion products that can lead to carbon monoxide poisoning do not penetrate into the bathhouse. Masonry seams are filled with mortar to the full depth. Their thickness should be minimal: for ordinary bricks no more than 5 mm, for refractory and refractory bricks - no more than 3 mm for the entire depth. The solution is spread by hand, from the master it can be put only to the bottom of the top-liver and the bottom of the smoke channels.

The inner surfaces of the furnaces must be smooth, therefore, chipped and sledge bricks are laid with rough edges outward. Every 4-5 rows of masonry, the inner surfaces are rubbed with a wash brush or a rag soaked in water without adding a solution.

The laying of the next row is started only when all the bricks of the previous row are laid. It is advisable to first lay the bricks of each row and fit them together, and then put them on the mortar.

Checking the correct angles. After laying the first row, check the correctness of the corners with a square or cord. After laying the 2nd row, guide cords with cut-offs are installed at the corners of the oven. The cords are hung with nails from the ceiling, and from below they are wound on nails pressed into the seams between the bottom two rows.

Binding of bricks. When laying bricks, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules for ligation of bricks: each vertical seam must be covered with a brick top row. Bonding of ordinary brick masonry with refractory or refractory brick masonry is not allowed, as they expand differently with increasing temperature.

Furnace appliances. Furnace instrument doors, valves, grates, stoves, hot water boxes (built-in water tanks) - are installed simultaneously with bricklaying. The frame of the door is fixed in the masonry by means of paws (clamps) made of mild steel strip (hoop iron). The paws are attached to the frame with rivets. Before installation in place, the frame is wrapped with asbestos cord or cloth. In the absence of asbestos between the frame of the firebox door and brickwork leave a gap around the entire perimeter with a width of 3-4 mm, so that the frame, when heated, does not push the masonry apart. To ensure the strength of the jumper from above, the door of the firebox is blocked in the “lock” way (the middle brick is placed with beveled ends on the beveled ends of neighboring bricks). Other doors and frames of dampers (latches) are fixed in the masonry with 2 mm wire (the wire is embedded in the masonry).

Grate. The grate is installed with slots along the firebox. A gap of at least 5 mm is left between the edges of the grate and the masonry bricks to expand the grate. The gap is filled with sand. The same gap is left between the stove above the firebox and the masonry.

Fuel tank. An important part of the stove is the top-liver. For wood burning, its smallest width is 25 cm (in one brick), the smallest height is 35 cm. With an increase in the height of the firebox, the conditions for burning fuel improve. It is desirable that it be 40–60 cm, depending on the size of the furnace. In the lower part of the wall of the firebox, they are made with a slope towards the grate, so that during combustion, the coals settle on the grate. Under the firebox, they are located below the frame of the furnace door by at least 1 brick, otherwise coals will fall out when the door is opened. It is desirable to make the bottom of the ash pan also below the blower door.

Smoke circulation. The uniformity of heating and the efficiency of the furnace depend on the design of its smoke circuits - channels for flue gases. Inner surface they should be even and not smeared with clay mortar, which quickly falls off and clogs the chimneys.

Overlapping. The upper wall of the furnace, called the ceiling, consists of three rows of bricks laid flat with dressing. If the vertical seams of the ceiling coincide, they must be covered with pieces of steel sheet.

Pipe. The pipe for the heater is usually made mounted, that is, on the stove array. At the same time, the thickness of the walls of the furnace and the pipe must be at least half a brick, the cross section of the smoke channels and pipes must also be at least half a brick.

The pipe is brought to a height of at least 0.5 m from the roof surface using cement or lime mortar (clay mortar is easily washed out by rain and condensate that can form inside the pipe).

Safety measures at work. When constructing the oven, care must be taken not to fall or drop bricks or tools. To work on the roof, a horizontal platform is installed for the stove and a box or bucket with a solution. The site must be fenced from the side of the slope and attached to the rafters. If the platform is small, then the stove-maker must put on a safety belt tied to a reliable part of the roof. The shackle and eyes of the bucket must be tested for strength.

After completion of construction and drying, the furnace is tested with a trial firebox, which is carried out in the presence of fire authorities. At the same time, an act on the safety of the furnace must be drawn up.

Fire safety measures. For the purposes of fire safety, the distance between the brick surface of the stove and the combustible structure (wooden parts of the bath) must be at least 40 cm if the structure is not protected from fire, and at least 25 cm if such protection is available. If the furnace and the pipe are metal, then these distances are increased to 100 and 70 cm, respectively. There must be a free distance of at least 10 cm between the brick pipe and the wooden parts of the roof (rafters, sheathing, sheathing).

When using a metal or asbestos-cement pipe, the nearest wooden parts of the ceiling and roof must be covered with felt impregnated with clay mortar, and additionally upholstered with roofing steel. The gap between the pipe and the roof is closed with a galvanized steel apron. On a wooden floor in front of the furnace door, they install a metal sheet not less than 70×50 cm in size.

Plastering. For greater safety and giving a pleasant appearance, the oven is plastered with solutions of the following composition (by volume):

• gypsum: lime: sand 2:2:1
• clay: lime: sand 1:1:3
• clay:sand 1:2
• clay: cement: sand 1:1:3

It is desirable to add 0.1–0.2 hours of asbestos to any solution. It should be taken into account that the mortar with gypsum can set in 15-20 minutes.

Preparing for plaster. For plastering, the surface of a completely dried oven is cleaned of clay, the seams are cleared to a depth of 10 mm. It is even better to cover the stove with a grid with cells of at least 15 × 15 mm, attaching it with nails and washers, or wrap it with wire, also attached to the walls of the stove with nails.

The sequence of applying layers and whitewashing. To ensure thermal expansion separate parts ovens, it is heated until it warms up well, moistened with water and a continuous layer of plaster is applied. After setting the first layer, a second layer of plaster is applied, then the next one. The total thickness of the layers should be 10–15 mm. The last layer is carefully leveled and rubbed. If the plaster is made with lime and has a gray surface, it is not necessary to pour it white. A very dark plaster surface can be whitewashed with a solution of lime and a small amount of clay added so that the painted surface is gray instead of bright white, which will irritate the eyes. Be sure to whitewash the pipe within the attic to make it easier to detect cracks.

Pipe processing. If the pipe is metal or asbestos-cement, then the junction of it with brickwork must be sealed with a waterproof mortar (cement or lime-cement), and the outside of the pipe must be covered with thermal insulation, otherwise in a cooled pipe (at a flue gas temperature below 100 ° C) condensation will form, which impregnates with moisture and destroys the upper bricks of the furnace, reduces draft, and in winter it can lead to the formation of an ice plug in the pipe.

Pipe insulation. Pipe insulation is performed by enclosing it in a sheet steel casing. The gap between them with a width of about 5 cm is filled with mineral wool.

Deflector. To improve traction and protect the pipe from precipitation, a deflector is installed on its upper end, which ensures the suction of gases from the pipe using the wind.