The better to insulate the house from the outside: choose a heater. Instructions for warming the house from the outside External insulation for the house

  • 23.06.2020
September 7, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Warming the house from the outside is, on the one hand, a fairly simple procedure that you can handle on your own, even without any experience. But, on the other hand, this operation raises a lot of questions, moreover, it requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations. Therefore, below I will describe to you several ways to perform external insulation as efficiently as possible and without damage to the structure.

External insulation methods

Many people who encounter insulation for the first time do not know how best to place the insulation inside or outside. According to SNiP 3.03.01-87, in private houses, for a number of reasons, external thermal insulation should be performed:

  • if you place the heat insulator from the inside, the walls will freeze even more than before the insulation. Moreover, a heat insulator will form in the space between the wall and the insulation;
  • from the inside it is impossible to provide thermal insulation of the ceiling, as a result of which the insulation is defective;
  • internal thermal insulation reduces living space.

Thus, the answer to the above question is unequivocal - internal insulation is performed only in cases of emergency.

So, if you decide to insulate the house from the outside with your own hands, you will need dry heat-insulating material in the form of plates or mats for this purpose. As a rule, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is used as a heater. With their help, you can insulate the facade in several ways:

  • wet facade - the technology consists in gluing insulation and applying plaster over it. This method widely distributed due to its relative cheapness. Its disadvantage is the low strength of the facade and fragility, compared with other finishing methods;

  • hinged facade- is a frame to which facade materials are attached (siding, lining, facade, etc.). The insulation is located in the space between the finishing material and the wall. This finish is more durable, but at the same time more expensive;
  • cladding with thermal insulation blocks, which can be made of wood concrete, foam concrete, gas silicate, etc. I must say that the thermal insulation properties of these materials are worse than polystyrene foam or, for example, mineral wool. However, they are more durable.

If, for example, you need to insulate an old wooden or country house frame house, then this method insulation is the best solution. Moreover, block insulation can be combined with other heat insulators.

Everyone should decide how and with what to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the situation, financial capabilities and wishes regarding the design of the facade. As you can see, each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Below we will consider in more detail all the insulation options described above.

Wet facade

First of all, I will tell you how to properly perform a wet facade. For this you will need the following materials:

  • insulation in the form of mats or plates (mineral wool, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam);
  • special dowels for insulation ("fungi");
  • glue for insulation;
  • perforated aluminum corners
  • fiberglass mesh;
  • primer;
  • decorative plaster;
  • dye.

Before buying a heat insulator, people are always interested in - what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? If the house is brick or made of other non-combustible materials, you can save money and use foam. If the structure is wooden, it is necessary to use mineral wool, which will serve as protection against fire.

The process of installing a heater with your own hands looks like this:

  1. first of all, you need to prepare the facade for work - dismantle all the elements that will interfere with the installation of insulation;
  2. then you need to dilute the glue with water according to the instructions on the package;
  3. then the glue is applied to the surface of the insulation using a notched trowel. If the walls are uneven, you can apply glue with "blunders" in the corners and in the center, which will give more opportunity to align the plates with respect to each other.

It should be noted that at this stage it is necessary to ensure a smooth vertical surface of the walls, therefore, in the process of gluing the insulation, you need to use a level and beacons (a horizontally stretched thread along the wall, along which each row of the heat insulator is aligned);

  1. further, the insulation is additionally fixed with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the wall directly through the slabs or mats. It is necessary to hammer in the dowels so that they are recessed and do not protrude above the wall surface;

  1. according to the same scheme, slopes are pasted over, the only thing is that they are not fixed with dowels;
  2. after that, the evenness of the walls should be checked by the rule, if necessary, individual sections can be rubbed with a grater;
  3. after that, perforated aluminum corners are glued to all external corners;
  4. then the hats of the self-tapping screws are smeared with glue;
  5. The next step is to glue the mesh. To do this, use the same glue that is applied with a spatula to the surface of the insulation. A mesh is immediately applied to the treated surface and a spatula is drawn along it, as a result of which it is embedded in the adhesive composition.

I note that the mesh must first be cut into canvases of the required length, taking into account the fact that it should overlap and turn into corners;

  1. after drying, the glue is re-applied to the surface of the walls with a thin layer. In order for the composition to lay down evenly, the solution must be made more liquid than for gluing;
  2. when the glue dries, the surface is treated with a primer using paint roller. The composition is applied in two passes;

  1. after the soil dries, decorative plaster is applied to the surface and leveled with a small one. When the composition begins to set, the plaster is rubbed with small circular or reciprocating movements;
  2. the final step is painting. There is nothing complicated in this procedure - the roller must be dipped in a bath of paint and then treated with a wall. The paint is applied in two layers.

This completes the work. It should be noted that this technology can be used to insulate not only private house but also an apartment.

hinged facade

To make a hinged facade on your own is no more difficult than a wet one. To do this, prepare the following materials:

  • insulation in the form of mats or plates;
  • metal profile or wooden beam for mounting the frame;
  • adjustable brackets;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • dowels for insulation;
  • finishing material for the facade.

Many people are sure that the cheaper the heat insulator, the better. However, the same mineral wool or foam are of different quality. For example, cheap mineral wool can be exposed to moisture, and foam plastic can easily ignite and support combustion, so it is better to use materials from famous brands even if they are not the cheapest.

The instructions for warming look like this:

  1. after preparing the facade, you must first perform installation. There are quite a few options for its design and location of the insulation in it. Most often, racks are mounted on brackets, between which mats or plates are placed.
    I must say that the installation of the frame is the most critical stage, since the evenness of the walls depends on it. Therefore, all racks must be placed in the same vertical plane;

  1. then a heater is laid between the racks and fixed with dowels;
  2. then a vapor barrier film is attached over the insulation. As a rule, it is fixed on the frame. To do this, you can use rails that are mounted horizontally, while the film is located between them and the racks;
  3. at the end of the work, the frame is sheathed with facade material, after which additional elements are installed - ebbs, corners, etc.

This completes the installation of the hinged facade with your own hands.

Facing with heat-insulating blocks

If you need to insulate an old, for example, log house, then it is better to build additional walls for it, which will also serve as a heater. Of course, this will have to spend more time and effort, but the result fully justifies these costs.

There are quite a few options for cladding walls. The most common materials are:

  • blocks of Sibit (it is more correct to say aerated concrete, since Sibit is the name of the enterprise, which the people began to call the material it produces);
  • wood concrete blocks - made from wood chips mixed with cement;
  • gas silicate blocks - resemble aerated concrete, however, lime is used as the basis for their composition. In addition, this material is obtained by autoclave;
  • from polystyrene concrete - contain foam granules in their structure;
  • from expanded clay concrete - contain expanded clay granules in their structure.

So that you can decide on the materials yourself and understand, for example, the better a block of gas silicate is in comparison, for example, with aerated concrete, below I will give a table with the main characteristics of these materials:

As we can see, some materials win in strength, others in thermal conductivity. For example, a gas silicate block is more durable than an arbolite block, but at the same time it is more heat-conducting.

Of course, the price of the material is also an important factor in the choice. Arbolite blocks cost about 4,000 rubles per cube, and polystyrene concrete material costs about the same. The price of gas silicate is a little cheaper - about 3,000 rubles per cubic meter.

The house cladding technology is as follows:

  • around the perimeter of the house is a shallow foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information about the arrangement of such a foundation;
  • then the foundation is waterproofed with several layers of roofing material;
  • further along the perimeter of the house a wall is being erected. Since the blocks are large, laying is much easier than brick. However, in any case, it is necessary to ensure that they lie flat and in the same plane, therefore, in the process of work, it is necessary to use the level, plumb lines and beacons;

  • if a wooden country house is faced, after several rows, pins are laid in the facing wall, which are pre-hammered into the wooden wall. The pitch of the pins should be about a meter and a half.

Walls built from heat-insulating blocks need further finishing, for example, plastering. Therefore, this technology of insulation is rarely used. Most often it is used in cases where it is necessary to strengthen and insulate a garden house.

If the same procedure is required for a residential building, you can brick it and place mineral mats between the walls. Of course, the costs in this case will be much higher, but additional finishing will not be needed, and the building will acquire a solid and presentable appearance.

Here, in fact, are all the options for external insulation of houses that I wanted to acquaint you with.

Conclusion

As we found out, there are several ways of effective external insulation of houses, which have their own advantages and disadvantages. Regardless of the technology that will be optimal for you, you can cope with this task yourself. The main thing is not to violate the sequence of actions described above and do the work carefully.

For more information, see the video in this article. If during the process of warming you encounter any difficulties or some points are not completely clear to you, ask questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.
















After the introduction of a new standard for the thermal protection of buildings, insulation has become relevant even for those houses that were previously considered “safe”. Owners of older buildings can do nothing but be prepared to pay rising energy bills. And the projects of new houses will not be approved if they do not meet the requirements of SNiP 23-02-2003. There are several technologies that allow you to provide regulatory performance for buildings from any materials. The main thing is to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside in each case.


The house must be kept warm Source prolesa.com.ua

Why external insulation, and not internal

The most understandable argument for a non-specialist sounds very convincing, although this is a secondary factor - insulation from the inside “takes away” the usable volume of residential and office premises.

Builders are guided by the standard, according to which the insulation must be external (SP 23-101-2004). Warming from the inside is not directly prohibited, but it can be carried out only in exceptional cases. For example, when it is impossible to carry out work outside due to structural features or the facade “belongs” to the house, which belongs to architectural monuments.

Video description

The result of proper internal insulation of the house on the video:

Internal wall insulation is allowed provided that a durable and continuous vapor-tight layer is created from the side of the room. But this is not easy to do, and if warm air with water vapor gets into the insulation or onto the surface of a cold wall, then condensation is inevitable. And the reason for this is the “dew point”, which will move either inside the layer of heat-insulating material, or to the border between it and the wall.


Even such protection from the inside will not provide a 100% guarantee against wetting the wall - water vapor will find a “way” at the joints of the film and attachment points Source domvpavlino.ru

That is, when deciding how to properly insulate a house, in the vast majority of cases, the answer will be based on clear regulatory recommendations - from the outside.

Popular thermal insulation materials

From a large list of thermal insulation materials, several of the most popular and those that are used if the budget allows or for other reasons can be distinguished. Traditionally, the popularity of materials is determined by a combination of good thermal insulation characteristics and relatively low cost.

  • Styrofoam

Better known as "styrofoam". To be precise, in addition to plates, this material is also used in granular form as bulk thermal insulation.

Its thermal conductivity depends on density, but on average it is one of the lowest in its class. Thermal insulation properties are provided by a cellular structure filled with air. Popularity is explained by availability, ease of installation, good compressive strength, low water absorption. That is, it is cheap, quite durable (as part of the structure) and is not afraid of water.

Styrofoam is considered low-flammable, and with the marking PSB-S - self-extinguishing (does not support combustion). But in case of fire, it emits toxic gases, and this is one of the main reasons why it cannot be used for insulation from the inside. Its second drawback is low vapor permeability, which imposes restrictions on the use of "breathable" materials for insulating walls.


Insulation of the wall of the house outside with foam plastic Source makemone.ru

  • Extruded polystyrene foam

It differs from polystyrene in a fundamentally different manufacturing technology, although the same polystyrene granules serve as raw materials. In some respects, it surpasses its "relative". It has the same percentage of water absorption (no more than 2%), an average of 20-30% lower thermal conductivity (table D.1 SP 23-101-2004), several times lower vapor permeability and higher compressive strength. Thanks to this set of qualities, it best material when insulating the foundation and basement, that is, the walls of the basement and the "zero" floor. The disadvantages of EPPS are the same as those of polystyrene, and it costs more.


XPS is usually made "colored" Source footing.ru

  • Stone, she is basalt, cotton wool

This is a subspecies of mineral wool, the raw material of which is rocks of stone (most often basalt). A completely different type of thermal insulation material, the low thermal conductivity of which is ensured by the fibrous structure and low density. It is inferior to foam plastic and EPPS in terms of thermal conductivity (on average 1.5 times higher), but unlike them, it does not burn and does not smolder (combustibility class NG). Refers to "breathable" materials - according to the new standard, this sounds like low "breathing resistance".


Mineral wool mats for wall insulation should be “hard” Source konveyt.ru

But there are other materials for warming the house from the outside, which, although they are used less often, have their own advantages.

Thermal insulation materials - novelties on the market

Additionally, you can always consider new options - they are slightly more expensive, but often somewhat more effective than traditional ones.

  • Foamed polyurethane

A common polymeric material for "household use". Also well known as furniture foam (in the form of "soft" mats) or as a gap-filling foam. When insulating, it is also used in the form of plates or sprayed insulation.

Polyurethane foam boards have low tear holding capacity, so it is not used in wet facade systems.

But it is a common heat-insulating material for the manufacture of sandwich panels. The same technology underlies the production of thermal panels for facade cladding. Such a panel is a heat-insulating plate with a decorative layer already applied at the factory (clinker tiles or stone chips). Two types of insulation: polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam. In the first case, the thermal panel is two-layer, in the second - three-layer (OSB or moisture-resistant plywood is used as the supporting base). Two mounting options: on dowels / anchors ( open way) or on your concealed fixing system.


Three-layer thermal panel

Sprayed polyurethane foam is in demand if it is necessary to create a seamless layer of thermal insulation on complex surfaces. Until recently, there was the only technology for applying such a layer - using professional installations working with a two-component composition (mixing occurs during spraying).


PPU spraying on the basement of the house Source nauka-i-religia.ru

Now in Russia, for domestic use, the production of one-component polyurethane foam has been launched, which is produced in an aerosol can with a capacity of 1 liter. As the manufacturers assure (there are two competing companies), do-it-yourself insulation of 1 m2 is much cheaper than when concluding an agreement with specialized enterprises using professional equipment. And this option than to insulate the house from the outside is quite attractive, if literally 2-3 cm of the heat-insulating layer is missing.


Warming with sprayed PPU "Teplis" Source m.2gis.kz

  • Ecowool

Relatively new thermal insulation material. The technology of insulation of enclosing surfaces is based on cellulose fiber material, which is applied to the walls using a special installation. There are two options for insulation: filling the plane between the wall and the cladding, spraying with an adhesive binder on the wall with the crate installed (and subsequent installation of facade panels).

Of the traditional materials, glass wool (a subspecies of mineral wool) can be mentioned, but due to brittleness and the formation of the smallest “dust” with sharp edges during installation, it was replaced by stone wool safe both during installation and operation.

The better to insulate the house from the outside - standards for the number of layers

If follow regulatory documents, there are two options for insulating a house from the outside by the number of structural and heat-insulating layers: two-layer and three-layer. And in the second case exterior finish panels or plaster are not considered as an independent layer, although their thermal insulation properties are taken into account. In three-layer walls, the structural material acts as the outer (third) layer.


Brick cladding with insulation Source pinterest.ru

In addition to this classification, there is also a division according to the presence of a ventilated and non-ventilated layer.

  • brickwork, reinforced concrete (with flexible connections), expanded clay concrete - all types of solutions;
  • wooden houses- Enclosing structures with two-layer, three-layer walls and with a ventilated air gap;
  • frame houses with thin sheet sheathing - three-layer walls with thermal insulation in the middle, as well as with ventilated and non-ventilated air gap;
  • cellular concrete blocks - two-layer walls with brick lining, as well as with a ventilated or non-ventilated layer.
In practice, for the insulation of low-rise buildings, such a variety of solutions comes down to a choice between a “wet” or hinged facade. Although, as heat-insulating materials, they consider exactly those recommended by the standard - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene (EPS as an alternative).

But each case has its own preferences.

Video description

Clearly about the choice of how to insulate the house from the outside in the video:

The better to insulate the house from the outside, depending on the material of the walls

There are no restrictions on the choice of technology for insulating a brick house. Different options can be considered only depending on the chosen method of finishing the facade:

  • Facing brick. This is a classic three-layer wall construction on flexible ties. Even using expanded polystyrene, a ventilated air gap is provided for weathering water vapor and preventing wall materials from getting wet.
  • Wet facade. You can use mineral wool and polystyrene foam. The first option is preferable ceramic brick vapor permeability is higher than that of foam. And according to paragraph 8.5 of SP 23-101-2004, the arrangement of layers should contribute to the weathering of water vapor in order to prevent the accumulation of moisture.


Wet facade scheme Source deskgram.net

  • Ventilated facade. with cladding wall panels or large-format porcelain stoneware on the crate. Insulation is traditional for all hinged facades - mineral wool.


Scheme of a ventilated facade Source sk-optimus.com.ua

Wooden houses (log or timber) are insulated exclusively with mineral wool using the hinged facade technology.

For them, you can find examples of the use of expanded polystyrene and plaster using the "wet facade" method. In this case, a ventilated gap is made between the wall and the foam plates using a remote crate. Although this loses the main advantage of the "wet facade" - the simplicity of design and installation.

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation

If you “flip through” offhand SP23-101-2004 or similar in content, but a later set of rules SP 50.13330.2012, you can see that it is not so easy to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

Each building is "individual". During the development of the project and its approval, such a thermal calculation is done by specialists. And here a whole range of parameters is taken into account - the characteristics of the region (temperatures, the duration of the heated season, the average number of sunny days), the type and area of ​​​​glazing at home, heat capacity floor covering, thermal insulation of the roof and basement. Even the number of metal bonds between the wall and the cladding matters.

But if the owner of a previously built house decides to insulate it (and the new norms introduced in 2003 are much tougher than the old ones), then he will have to choose between three parameters " standard thickness» insulation - 50, 100 and 150 mm. And there is no need for precision calculations. There is such a scheme, which shows the equivalent dimensions of the thickness different materials(in average form), the wall of which will meet the new requirements for thermal protection.


Only a house made of aerated concrete blocks with a thickness of 45 cm does not need insulation Source legkovmeste.ru

And then it's simple. They take the thickness of the wall from a certain material, see how much is missing from the standard. And then they calculate in proportion what thickness of the insulation layer of the wall of the house from the outside should be added. Taking into account that the wet facade has another layer of plaster, while the ventilated facade has an air gap, plus the interior decoration of the facade walls, you can be sure of sufficient thermal protection.

And the question of roof insulation, floors and choice good windows decide separately.

Even easier is to use one of the many online calculators. The figure here, of course, is approximate, but rounded up to the nearest standard insulation thickness, it will give the required result.

How to properly install insulation on the facade

Before installation, the facade must be prepared: cleaned of old finishes, removed dirt and dust, dismantled hinged elements of engineering systems, removed ebbs and visors (you still have to change to wider ones), remove signs, plates and facade lamps. Then the surface of the wall must be strengthened - cracks and chips should be repaired, crumbling areas should be cleaned, a deep penetration primer should be applied.


Applying a primer composition Source rmnt.ru

For reliable fastening of expanded polystyrene or rigid mineral wool mats in the wet facade system, the wall surface must be as even as the unevenness can be leveled with adhesive mortar. With a height difference of up to 5 mm, the solution is applied over the entire insulation slab, with irregularities from 5 to 20 mm - along the perimeter and in the form of "cakes" on 40% of the slab surface.

The first row of plates is mounted with emphasis on the starting bar, which also sets the horizontal level. The second and subsequent rows are set with a shift of the vertical seam (at least 200 mm), leveling the surface of the insulation in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints so that the height difference is no more than 3 mm. When insulating the walls around the openings, make sure that the seams of the plates do not intersect in their corners. Each plate is additionally fixed with umbrella dowels at the rate of 5 pcs. per 1 m2.

The surface of the plates before applying the plaster is reinforced with fiberglass, fixed in the middle of the layer. adhesive solution with a total thickness of 5-6 mm.

The density of expanded polystyrene is chosen equal to 25-35 kg/m3.

Video description

Visually about the insulation of mineral wool in the video:

Mineral wool mats of Russian brands for the “wet facade” system must comply with index 175, imported ones must be labeled “facade” and have a density above 125 kg / m3.

Attention. In the "wet facade" system, the insulation is mounted in only one (!) layer. The vertical surface of two layers of "soft" slabs with a load in the form of plaster behaves unpredictably, especially with changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Do not be deluded by the arguments that the second layer of plates overlaps the seams of the first and eliminates "cold bridges".

Rigid mineral wool mats with a density of 80 kg/m3 or more are used in the ventilated facade. If the surface of the mats is not laminated, then after they are attached to the crate, the surface is covered with either fiberglass or a vapor-permeable membrane.

The step of laying out the crate is chosen 2-3 cm less than the width of the mats. In addition to fastening to the crate, the insulation is additionally fixed to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.

The size of the air gap between the insulation and the cladding should be in the range of 60-150 mm.

Important. Size 40 mm is standardized for non-ventilated air gaps.

For ventilation of the layer in the cladding, inlets are arranged in the basement area and outlets are located under the roof eaves. The total area of ​​the holes must be at least 75 cm2 per 20 m2 of the wall.


Ventilation grilles in the wall Source tproekt.com

As a result - is it worth it to insulate

Home insulation is a profitable investment even in the short term. Invested funds will quickly pay off due to lower heating and air conditioning costs.

Our website also lists companies specializing in facade and finishing materials, which are presented at the exhibition of houses Low-rise Country.

« How to insulate the house from the outside? - this question worries many owners of private buildings. Insulation of any room from the outside creates not only a comfortable microclimate, but also has an economic effect. First of all, the increase in temperature eliminates the need for frequent switching on of additional heating. Secondly, low temperatures promote the development of fungus and mold. For this reason, things, ceilings, walls begin to rot. And again - additional costs.

Thermal insulation outside is done in different ways. However, when choosing a suitable insulation, it is necessary to focus on the material from which the walls are made. Let's look at several options for thermal insulation and types of insulation.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside?

2. Prime the surface.

3. Install ebbs (external window sills). Align them horizontally with a level.

4. Place a base that will keep the line and prevent the slab from sliding down.

Start laying foam sheets from the bottom. The evenness of the entire row will depend on how correctly the lowest plate is set. Plates "seat" on the glue. After 3 days, further strengthen them with nails. If the foam is used to insulate a house from a bar, carefully seal all the cracks and holes. You can take any material - polyurethane foam, ecowool or mineral wool. The main thing is that you eliminate drafts and air circulation.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside

How can you insulate the house from the outside

2. Coat the boards with another layer of the same mixture. This is for added protection.

3. Apply alkali resistant fiberglass mesh.

4. Prime the entire surface.

5. Last layer- choose yourself. Can be plastered or painted. And you can choose some decorative material.

How to insulate wooden house outside

First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that a tree of any species evaporates moisture. That is why during warming external walls care must be taken to create good ventilation. As a heater, choose basalt wool or glass wool. The second option will cost you less. Before starting work, replace wooden window frames with plastic frames.

Installation begin with the installation of the frame, which is mounted from wooden slats installed vertically. The distance between the rails is equal to the width of the heat-insulating material plate. For fastening, special plastic dowels are used.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

For the construction of a house from a bar, as a rule, a bar with a section of 200 by 200 mm or 150 by 150 mm is used. The technology of construction from this material came to us from the southern countries, so in our country it “gives” its owners with enormous heat losses. However, with skillful hands and desire, you can reduce them to almost zero.

2 layers - timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm

For those who have planned repairs in the kitchen, it will be interesting to know how to do it. suspended ceiling in the kitchen.

2. Make the first layer of waterproofing.

3. Mount the crate.

4. Install insulation.

5. Make a second layer of waterproofing.

2. Install the foam: attach it to the wall with special adhesive mixtures. Apply the composition, spread evenly over the entire surface. After drying, reinforce the foam with umbrella dowels.

3. Make reinforcement. For this purpose, a plaster mesh made of plastic is suitable, on which a layer of plaster is subsequently applied.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside: the best insulation

It is quite difficult to achieve optimal efficiency in energy saving at home, even with an ultra-modern heating system, but without resorting to insulation of external walls. It has been experimentally established that about 30% heat escapes through uninsulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside. Thus, with the help special materials with a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity, the protection of walls from external influences is enhanced. Warming from the outside creates a kind of barrier between the damp and cold atmosphere of the street and the microclimate inside the home. However, the success of this process will directly depend on the right insulation.

Types of materials for wall insulation outside

Most often, houses are insulated from the outside with the following types of materials:

Styrofoam- has a low thermal conductivity. 90% air and 10% polymers. Easy to install and pretty cheap.

Mineral wool- a heat-insulating material that is made from metallurgical slags and silicates. Unlike glass wool, working with it is safe.

polyurethane foam- does not require building frame structures. All work is carried out only by professionals, since working with insulation requires certain skills.

Penoplex- a new formula of wall insulation, which retains heat better and more efficiently. It has a finely porous structure due to extrusion. Possesses high heat-insulating characteristics.

They also use thermal insulation, expanded polystyrene, liquid expanded clay materials, cellulose, etc. for insulation. However, these heaters are not used as often as the above. Therefore, we will focus on the consideration of the main insulation for walls.

Mineral wool

Mineral (basalt, stone) wool is a fibrous structure insulation, which is similar to the natural material basalt. This insulation is made from alloys of volcanic rocks at a very high temperature. Such wool is completely fireproof and is not affected by fire.

Mineral wool options

Benefits of mineral wool:

Thermal insulation characteristics are very high due to the porous qualities of the fiber. The material perfectly retains heat, and in summer it does not allow heat into the house.

The soundproofing qualities of basalt wool are high, thanks to the chaotic interweaving of basalt fibers, which delays sound waves.

Long service life. Once you have insulated the walls of your house with mineral wool, you can no longer worry about thermal insulation.

High tightness throughout the entire period of operation.

Mineral wool is an absolutely ecological wall insulation that does not pose a danger to either people or environment. Installation of mineral wool on the facade and walls takes place in several stages:

Preparing the walls of the house outside.

Laying a layer of a vapor-permeable membrane over the wall.

Fastening wooden slats or profiles to walls.

Laying heat-insulating mats.

Another layer of film is stretched over the insulation.

The device of the ventilating facade of the house outside.

And at the finishing stage, new slopes, window sills and trim elements are installed due to the increase in wall thickness.

The cost of such a house insulation varies from 100 to 400 rubles per m².

Styrofoam is very often used to insulate walls from the outside. After all, its thermal conductivity is lower than that of mineral wool - 0.032-0.038 W/m*K and are slightly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam.

Such a heater has many advantages:

Excellent sound insulation of walls;

Light weight, which does not increase the load on the building;

Simplicity and ease of installation.

Installation of foam on the walls of the house is as follows:

Scheme of installation of foam insulation

Setting the start profile.

Applying adhesive to the insulation.

Sticking foam boards on the walls of the house.

Fixing sheets with dowel fasteners.

Installation of reinforcement elements.

Application of a decorative protective layer on the wall.

Giving texture to the facade.

Mounted foam drawing

The cost of such a heater is available - about 50 rubles per m²

polyurethane foam

This material for insulating the walls of a house from the outside is one of the varieties of plastic. It has a cellular foamy structure and 90% is made up of gaseous matter. The rest of the volume is the walls of the cells.

Sectional polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation and properties of polyurethane foam:

The thermal conductivity of the material lies in the range of 0.018 to 0.035 W / m * K, which is better than that of mineral wool.

Perfectly absorbs noise and delays sounds.

Resistant to aggressive chemicals.

It has low moisture permeability properties.

The service life of polyurethane foam reaches 30 years old. This material is absolutely environmentally friendly.

Insulation of the walls of the house with the help of this heat-insulating material takes place in the following order:

Scheme of insulation with polyurethane foam

Reinforcement to improve thermal insulation.

The cost of polyurethane foam is calculated based on the size of the wall to be insulated. For example, it is necessary to make thermal insulation of the facade up to 50 sq. m. It will cost from 300 rubles per m².

Extruded foam is an innovative development that is designed to save energy.

Advantages of foam insulation:

The lowest thermal conductivity than all of the above materials.

Can withstand heavy loads.

It has a long service life - more than 40 years.

Today, more and more home owners prefer penolex because of its high performance characteristics. How is the process of installing insulation:

Penoplex insulation scheme

Preparatory work on the walls.

Applying glue to insulation boards.

Fastening with dowels.

Finishing outside.

The cost of such material varies from 300 to 400 rubles per m².

Features of installing insulation for the home

It is worth noting that the process of installing any type of insulation may differ depending on what material the house itself is built from. Log walls, for example, do not require an air layer between layers of thermal insulation and outer surface walls. After warming a house made of wood, a ventilated facade is almost always preferred, which provides air circulation. Sometimes it is lined with boards, clapboard or facade tiles are installed. The insulation of the walls of the house, made of bricks and panel blocks, is carried out according to a similar, standard principle.

Insulation for the walls of the house outside: how to insulate and which is better


It has been experimentally established that about 30% of heat escapes through non-insulated walls. The best way out of this situation is one - this is the insulation of the walls of the house from the outside.

How to insulate the house from the outside and how

In order to improve the heat-saving characteristics and increase the durability of a house made of wood, brick or foam concrete, insulation is often made from the outside according to the principle of a hinged facade or using “wet” technology. In this article, we will figure out how to carry out external insulation of a house and what heat-insulating materials are best used for this.

Overview of insulation materials

Mineral wool

Mineral (stone or glass) wool is the most versatile insulation, which is produced with various densities. For internal insulation, a less dense version of the heat insulator is used, for external arrangement it is more dense, which is able to withstand various negative impacts. In general, mineral wool differs from other types of insulation in its high thermal insulation capacity, durability, incombustibility, and mechanical strength. Its disadvantages are poor resistance to moisture and a rather high cost.

Ecowool refers to environmentally friendly types of insulation with low thermal conductivity, like a mineral wool heat insulator. Ecowool is produced from recycled cellulose raw materials and impregnated special formulations preventing fire and decay of the material. The only disadvantage of ecowool is a complex technological process of application by spraying, however, this method allows you to evenly fill all the cracks and structural protrusions of the facades, reliably protecting the building from the penetration of cold and moisture into the interior.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most popular polymer types of insulation, characterized by durability, almost zero water absorption, excellent heat-saving properties, and ease of installation. Most types of expanded polystyrene boards are impregnated with flame retardants, thus improving its fire resistance. Unlike heaters made from natural components, polystyrene and other types of polymer heat insulators are not susceptible to damage by microorganisms: mold, fungus and moss.

Polyfoam is a heater with a sufficiently high heat-insulating ability, light in weight and easy to install, moisture resistant and inexpensive. The disadvantages of polystyrene include its airtightness, low stability to mechanical damage and toxicity if ignited. In addition, the foam has a low durability, it is destroyed by elevated temperatures and in contact with chemically aggressive substances that are part of some paint and varnish coatings.

What material to choose

But, along with excellent heat-saving properties, insulating materials of natural origin have increased hygroscopicity - they quickly absorb moisture, retain it in their thickness, and when frost sets in, they freeze and lose their ability to shield the cold.

In order to protect the insulating layer from natural materials, the use of vapor barrier and waterproofing membranes is recommended, which screen moisture and at the same time do not interfere with the ventilation of the walls.

Unlike mineral wool and other types of insulation made from natural raw materials, thermal insulation made of foamed polymers practically does not absorb moisture and serves for a long time. If the installation of stone or glass wool is associated with certain difficulties and requires compliance with safety standards, then the installation of foam, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam can be quickly and easily done by yourself. At the same time, the thermal insulation properties of these materials are slightly worse than mineral wool.

Features of insulation of the walls of the house outside

Wall insulation from the outside is mainly carried out according to the technology of hinged facades, leaving a ventilation gap between the insulation layer and the finishing cladding - this way the walls of the house are more efficiently ventilated.

Stages of warming the house outside when arranging a hinged facade:

  • Cleaning and drying, treatment of walls with antiseptic compounds.
  • Installation of a vapor barrier film with sealing of the joints of the panels with mounting tape.
  • Installation of the frame for the installation of insulation and external cladding.
  • Insulation laying, fixing with dish-shaped dowels.
  • Installation of a waterproofing, windproof multifunctional membrane.
  • Fixing the facade finish on the frame using clamps.

Warming of the facades of the house can also be carried out using the "wet" technology - glue a layer of heat insulator to the outer walls and apply a layer of decorative paint or plaster.

Conclusion

In some regions of Russia, the heat-saving properties of brick, wooden, concrete walls often it is not enough to form a comfortable microclimate inside the house. External insulation will create an optimal temperature regime in the interior of the building and significantly save on heating.

To maintain the ability of the walls to pass air, it is recommended to insulate houses with heat insulators made from natural materials. But if the budget allocated for warming the house is limited, then the best solution would be to use polymeric types of thermal insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene - besides, these materials are easy to assemble with your own hands.

How to insulate a house from the outside and how: Expert advice


How to properly insulate a house from the outside and what material to choose for insulation, in the answers of construction specialists.

Owners of private houses often ask themselves what kind of wall insulation from the outside is the most effective. Which is better to choose a heater so that the load-bearing wall structures do not conduct cold in winter and repel heat in hot summers. Many modern heat-insulating materials not only prevent heat loss in the cold season, but also protect the room from the penetration of thermal radiation in summer. The issue of thermal insulation of your home must be approached with all seriousness. How comfortable and cozy the house will be for its residents depends on how high-quality you make the thermal insulation system for your home.

External wall insulation

Thermal insulation materials, types and characteristics

Previously, organic insulation in the form of sawdust, peat, etc. was used to insulate the building structure. A significant drawback of these materials was combustibility, high moisture absorption, susceptibility to decay and mold.

At the moment, organic heaters for thermal insulation of the house are practically not used. Now the construction market offers a wide range of synthetic thermal insulation materials with the best technical characteristics.

Expanded polystyrene, its advantages and disadvantages

Most people, when deciding how to insulate the house from the outside, prefer polystyrene foam. Such popularity of this heater is due to its low cost and excellent performance.

Of particular note are the following advantages of polystyrene foam:

  • lower, in comparison with mineral wool heaters, thermal conductivity (this allows the thickness of the insulation layer to be made smaller);
  • affordable cost (polystyrene foam is cheaper than mineral wool);
  • ease of installation (this material lends itself well to processing).

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene can be called: lower vapor permeability, in comparison with mineral wool insulation, and higher flammability.

Expanded polystyrene, despite some of its shortcomings, is widely used for facade insulation. The use of this material for thermal insulation of a building is three to four times cheaper than the use of other insulation, in particular mineral wool.

Important! Due to the low vapor permeability, expanded polystyrene is not recommended for insulation. wooden houses. The only area of ​​its application is the insulation of stone facades.

Expanded polystyrene is very effective for warming brick houses. Styrofoam thermal insulation with a thickness of only 80 mm makes it possible to four times reduce fuel consumption during the cold season.

Polyfoil insulation material

Quite an interesting modern insulation is pnofolgirovannyy insulation. It is a layer of polyethylene foam, which is clamped on both sides with aluminum foil. The features of this material are low weight and low thermal conductivity (the thermal conductivity of this insulation is 1.5 times less than that of basalt insulation).

The advantages of this material include ease of installation, the insulation is attached to the walls with a construction stapler. Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting the absolute vapor and gas impermeability.

Pressed cork insulation

Such a rather exotic insulation, like pressed cork, is made from the bark of a cork oak growing in the Mediterranean. This insulation is produced in rolls and plates, has a very attractive appearance, is an environmentally friendly material. Pressed cork is used for internal wall insulation, this material, due to its excellent appearance performs and functions decorative finishes. Cork boards can also be used for external insulation of facades.

Mineral wool on a stone basis

A distinctive feature of mineral wool fibers is their ability to withstand temperatures above 1000° without melting. Thanks to this, mineral wool prevents the spread of fire and protects the structures of houses built from combustible materials (for example, wooden houses) from fire. Insulators with high water absorption rates lose their thermal insulation properties, since water entering the thermal insulation material fills the air pores and increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Mineral wool practically does not absorb moisture, therefore it remains dry and retains its properties of low thermal conductivity, even if moisture gets on its surface.

The numerous advantages of mineral wool also include high resistance to mechanical stress.

Fiberglass thermal insulation materials

Fiberglass materials can be used to insulate the house from the outside. The main components used to make fiberglass are cullet, sand, dolomite, limestone, soda, etibor, etc. Raw materials for fiberglass are melted into melting furnace at 1400° and fed into the front hearth, where it goes through the fiberization stage. On centrifuges, molten glass breaks up into fibers 6 microns thick. After that, the resulting products are impregnated with polymer resin and fed to the conveyor, where they are formed into mats. The remaining water is evaporated from the mats and a high-quality insulation is obtained.

Fiberglass materials have the best qualities for thermal insulation of building facades, which include:

  • Fire safety.
  • Economy in transportation.
  • Ease of installation.
  • Low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.035 to 0.044 W / mK), due to the ability of fiberglass to firmly retain air, and, as a result, excellent thermal insulation properties. Fiberglass insulation can reliably protect against cold in winter and heat in summer.
  • Moisture resistant. Due to its non-hygroscopicity (glass wool does not absorb water), the heat-insulating properties do not deteriorate when moisture enters the material.
  • Environmental friendliness. Fiberglass insulation does not emit harmful substances and safe for health, it does not form mold and rot.

Glass wool is an effective insulation

What is better for thermal insulation of walls from the outside: mineral wool or expanded polystyrene

Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are the most requested insulation for thermal insulation of walls from the outside. The installation of mineral wool slabs is similar to the technology of laying polystyrene foam, in addition, these two heaters have similar specifications, so when they decide what is better to insulate the house from the outside, first of all, these two heaters are compared.

When they want to cheaply insulate walls from the outside, in most cases polystyrene boards are chosen. This material is not only cheaper than mineral wool, but its installation does not require special skills or complex tools; almost every owner can install thermal insulation using foam boards with their own hands. But when installing cheap foam insulation of walls from the outside, you should not discount that this material has low mechanical strength. In addition, rats and mice love to gnaw on polystyrene.

To insulate facades, manufacturers produce special types of vapor-permeable foam with a compacted outer layer. But the cost of such material is not less than the cost of mineral wool.

Insulation such as extruded polystyrene foam is not suitable for insulating walls from the outside, as it has zero vapor permeability. Using it to insulate facades leads to dampness of the material from which the walls are erected. From moisture on the surface of the walls, mold and fungi appear. On the market, you can buy vapor-permeable perforated extruded polystyrene foam intended for external insulation of facades. But their price is not less than the cost of mineral wool insulation.

When using expanded polystyrene for external wall insulation, it is better to purchase material with atipirenes, these are special substances that prevent the material from burning. Styrofoam with flame retardant acquires fire-fighting properties.

Mineral wool is not combustible, it resists mechanical stress well, it has sufficient vapor permeability, therefore, it is more preferable for external wall insulation, but with the correct design of the thermal insulation system, foam boards will also cope well with their functions.

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside must be decided before starting work. After all, there are several materials and they are different not only in their composition, but also in the fastening system. And the better to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, we will consider below.

External insulation performs an important protective function and has several advantages:

  1. The most important plus of external thermal insulation- no freezing. When the house is insulated from the inside, the walls are not protected from freezing and hypothermia. In cold walls, heat loss occurs faster.
  2. Increasing the strength of structures made according to frame technology . At internal insulation in structures of this type, there is a constant accumulation of condensate, which contributes to their gradual destruction.
  3. There is no additional pressure on load-bearing walls and foundations.
  4. The dew point is the accumulation of steam. It is located in the outer insulation layer, which eliminates condensation. Insulation, having vapor-permeable properties, lets condensate out. With internal insulation in the wall, from the side of the room, moisture accumulates, creating a favorable environment for the appearance of fungi, mold and freezing of the walls.
  5. The walls are protected from the cold and the heat is kept inside them for a long time.. His losses are minimal.
  6. External thermal insulation has such an important property as high-quality sound insulation. An aspect insignificant for suburban real estate is important when insulating houses and buildings located on noisy city streets.

Types of insulation

In the manufacture of plates for thermal insulation are used various materials with thermal insulation properties. As a heat-insulating material, slabs of foam plastic and mineral wool are most in demand. The quality characteristics of the plate should be the main selection criterion when buying insulation.

Mineral wool

If you are thinking about the best way to insulate a facade wall, then you should immediately pay attention to mineral wool (see How to insulate walls from the outside with mineral wool). These are boards made up of various fibres. The thickness of the material is usually 5-10 cm.

For working surfaces of a large area, mineral wool mats are produced. Ease of installation and a number of advantages provide a high demand for insulation.

Mineral wool does not burn, has moisture resistance, low thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, soundproofing properties, is not subject to external influences.

Depending on the material on the basis of which the insulation board is created, its types are classified.

Types of mineral wool:

Mineral wool stone

The material for the manufacture of this type of mineral wool is molten rocks: basalt, clay or limestone. Stone wool does not burn, does not rot, withstands large temperature differences. Its porous surface has excellent "breathing" properties.

The plate made of natural material is a natural, environmentally friendly insulation that does not emit toxins.

Mineral wool slag

It is made from metallurgical waste - molten slags. The thinnest fibers at the base of the material give it a resemblance to felt. It has high thermal insulation properties, does not burn, and passes steam condensates well.

fiberglass mineral wool

The material made on the basis of glass chips is resistant to high temperatures. Like other types of mineral wool, it does not burn, does not absorb moisture, is not susceptible to damage, has "breathing" properties and is easy to install. Glass wool contains the smallest glass dust, so care must be taken precautions to avoid contact with skin and mucous membranes.

Styrofoam board

If you are thinking how to insulate aerated concrete walls, then this material is completely suitable:

  • It consists of small spherical or cellular granules with hydrophobic properties.
  • In the manufacture of foam plastic, a high temperature effect on the granules contributes to the formation of a single structure.
  • The lowest price in the niche of heat-insulating materials and easy installation during the insulation process provided expanded polystyrene with great popularity (see Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene).
  • Plates are made with a thickness of 5 to 15 cm and you can carry out insulation without taking away a lot of usable area.

Peculiarities:

  1. A styrofoam board consists almost entirely of air trapped in the micropores of the granules. This is due to the light weight of the material.
  2. There are 2 types of foam: expanded, from larger round granules, and extruded, from small cells. For external insulation of the walls of the house, the first option is preferable. Extruded polystyrene foam has a finer structure and is used mainly for insulating non-residential premises and household buildings.
  3. When erecting a heat-insulating structure from expanded polystyrene foam, it is necessary to apply additional lining to the insulated surface or apply plaster (foam plastic under the influence of high temperature can release toxins).

Technologies for external thermal insulation

Before insulating the walls of the house, you need to think about how to do it. After all, the fastening of the material and the subsequent finishing are of great importance.

If this is the entrance wall, then it is stupid to talk about mineral wool. After all, it will still need to be revetted. But the foam is suitable, it is enough to plaster it.

External thermal insulation is of 2 types:

  • Bonded thermal insulation;
  • Hinged ventilated facade.

The first, the method of monolithic bonding of heat-insulating material, is most in demand. This type of thermal insulation is easy to do with your own hands, while the complex technology of a hinged facade requires a qualified approach and high costs.

Benefits of monolithic bonding

The method of monolithic-bonded insulation requires positive air temperature, above 5°C. Therefore, work on insulation in this way is seasonal. A method of thermal insulation popular in Western countries is becoming in demand in Russia as well.

  1. Energy efficiency: a significant reduction in heat loss through monolithic walls reduces heating costs.
  2. A monolithic heat-insulating shield reliably protects the walls from cold, wind, and moisture. A single enclosing structure eliminates the appearance of "cold bridges". The simplicity of the design allows, if necessary, to easily dismantle the layers of thermal insulation.
  3. The light weight of insulating materials does not put additional pressure on the foundation.
  4. Installation of bonded thermal insulation is possible on surfaces made of any material (blocks, bricks, panels, frame).
  5. The use of non-combustible types of insulation ensures the durability of the structure.

For the effectiveness of external insulation by the method of bonded thermal insulation, it is necessary to comply with the technology. The quality of the insulating material also matters. The most commonly used foam, mineral wool or glass wool. When choosing polystyrene, one must take into account its flammability, although manufacturers began to produce non-combustible types of polystyrene foam.

Bonded thermal insulation with polystyrene boards

This mounting method depends on the material used.

  • If we are talking about mineral wool, guide aluminum profiles and additional fasteners are needed.
  • Expanded polystyrene is fastened with special glue and dowels. The plates are glued to the wall, and the dowels provide additional fixation.
    Dowels must withstand the load of the entire structure and strong gusts of wind.

Attention: Special dowels for mounting thermal insulation have a large cap diameter, 5 cm or more. For fixing polystyrene foam plates, 2 types of dowels are used: regular (5 cm) and elongated (9 cm).

For external thermal insulation, it is necessary to choose expanded polystyrene with fire-resistant characteristics.

Method of external bonded thermal insulation:

  1. Special glue is applied to the surface in a continuous layer, according to the size of one foam plate.
  2. The foam is pressed against the wall with adhesive applied with force and held for better adhesion for a short period of time.
  3. Excess glue from under the foam plate is distributed under the neighboring ones. This contributes to additional bonding of the joints.
  4. The joints of the plates are filled with mounting foam or small pieces of polyurethane foam.
  5. The corner joints of the insulation sheets are fixed with dowels. The joints on the surface of the plates, together with the caps of the dowels, are smeared with a mastic composition. You should get a single monolithic layer of heat-insulating material.
  6. The next stage is the installation of a reinforcing mesh, which is fastened to the surface of the plates with glue. To create a continuous reinforced area, overlapping mesh is used.
  7. After complete drying, the resulting heat-insulating layer is leveled for further decorative cladding.
  8. Application of decorative plaster.
  9. The final stage is painting with paint intended for outdoor use. Paint and plaster must be resistant to environmental influences.

External thermal insulation with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam (PPU) involves spraying the composition onto the wall. The polymer layer, solidifying, provides reliable thermal insulation and monolithic flat surface. The heat-insulating composition is being prepared immediately before work.

Perspective modern method insulation has a number of advantages:

  • High adhesive properties, instant strong bond with any kind of surface;
  • Seamless technology increases the thermal inertia of the walls, providing additional strength;
  • Polyurethane foam (see Insulate the wall with polyurethane from the outside - how to make the right construction), applied with a layer of 5 mm, is not inferior in thermal insulation properties to a 15 cm thick mineral wool slab or 10 cm foam;
  • The plasticity of the polymer material ensures quick application and the absence of gaps, seams;
  • High moisture-repellent and sound-proof properties;
  • The tightness of the applied layer does not require additional protection with vapor barrier and windproof material;
  • The light weight of the applied polymer does not exert a load on the load-bearing walls and foundation;
  • Fast application;
  • The polymer composition does not emit toxic substances.

Attention: If the question is how to insulate the wall before wallpapering, then this material comes first.

Working with polyurethane foam involves careful spraying and protection of other surfaces with a covering material. When frozen, it is almost impossible to remove.

The prepared mixture is applied using special equipment, in which 2 polymer compositions are mixed under high temperature exposure. The mass brought to the state of foam is sprayed onto the insulated wall through a special sleeve.

This thermal insulation includes the following steps:

  1. Preparatory stage. The surface of the wall must be cleaned of dirt, dust, previous coating. Any foreign particles on the wall will reduce the bonding factor.
  2. Spraying of the polymer composition. The plasticity of the polymer allows you to level the walls, filling the cavities. The thickness of the polymer layer depends on the feed power. You can adjust it with the spray gun.
  3. Laying a reinforcing layer (fiberglass mesh is excellent). It is recommended to apply a layer of screed with a thickness of more than 6 cm.
  4. Decorative cladding with finishing materials (paint, siding, block house).

Warm plaster for external thermal insulation

This type of plaster differs from ordinary cement mortar in its composition: in addition to cement, it contains particles of heat-insulating filler: granulated polystyrene foam, crushed volcanic glass, a mixture of sawdust with paper or foamed vermiculite.

  • The porous structure of the plaster gives it "breathing" properties. For external insulation of facades, plaster with foam plastic granules or expanded clay chips is suitable. The sawdust base of the plaster is only suitable for interior work.
  • The composition must have high thermal conductivity, air permeability, pass steam condensate well and repel moisture.
  • Warm plaster has a plastic texture and is easy to apply without requiring additional alignment. Reinforcing mesh can be omitted. It is applied like regular plaster. Sanding or putty will provide a perfectly flat surface.
  • Plaster with thermal insulation properties is well bonded to any wall material, has a "breathing" surface.

Warm plaster meets the high requirements for heat-insulating materials.

Plaster properties:

  • Low thermal conductivity;
  • Vapor-permeable and hydrophobic properties;
  • breathability;
  • Durability;
  • Resistance to external influences and decomposition;
  • incombustibility;
  • Absence of toxic substances.

Where to apply warm plaster:

  • Plaster is used for exterior cladding, insulated with it window slopes, cover the connecting seams, cracks.
  • Easy application does not require additional correction. Properties such as resistance to external influences, strong bonding to the base, allow it to be used on any surface.
  • The mixture is applied in the same way as ordinary plaster. After complete drying, the surface can be sanded.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

In suburban construction, wood is often used as a material for building walls. This is explained by naturalness and safety from the point of view of ecology.

Attention: External insulation of wooden walls is possible with the use of technologies that provide ventilation. To protect wooden walls from decay, a ventilation gap is required.

As a heater for wooden structures most preferred are expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. The choice is due to the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material, high rates vapor permeability, fire resistance, the ability to remove moisture and ease of installation.

The heat-insulating structure of wooden walls is a multilayer "pie":

  • Interior decoration;
  • Bearing wall made of wood;
  • vapor barrier film;
  • Insulation plate (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene);
  • windproof material;
  • ventilation gap;
  • External cladding with finishing material.

The process of insulating wooden walls:

  • Training wooden surface. At this stage wooden wall treated with a special antiseptic solution and flame retardant impregnation. Slots are filled with mounting foam or caulked. For caulking, you can use tow, felt, or a special wood sealant.
  • Fastening on the wall with strips, overlapping, vapor barrier material. The joints are sealed with sealing tape.

  • Lathing installation. The crate is made from bars prepared and treated with an antiseptic. The thickness of the insulation board should be 20% of the guide rail width. In other words, the crate should protrude above the insulation layer. The distance between the guide bars is aligned along the width of the plate.

  • The crate is filled with slabs. Additional fastening of the plate is carried out using anchors.

  • Installation of wind protection material.
  • Exterior finish (block house, siding, decorative brick).

How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside, you will now figure it out on your own. Be sure not to miss the size of the insulation, you will still need to add a layer to it finishing material. After all, he also takes a place. After watching the video in this article and the photo, you can make the right choice.