What insulation is better for aerated concrete house. Aerated concrete insulation technology outside

Buildings made of aerated concrete or foam blocks, built in a temperate and northern climate, need additional insulation. Some people think that such material itself is a good heat insulator, but this is not so. Therefore, it is worth considering in more detail the insulation of a house made of aerated concrete, types of thermal materials and installation steps.

The need for insulation

The popularity of gas silicate blocks is due to a number of reasons: they are light, with a clear rectangular shape, do not require the construction of a powerful foundation for the house, and even a novice specialist can handle their installation. The installation of a building made of such material does not require such a qualification of a bricklayer as a brick house. Blocks of foam concrete are cut easily - with an ordinary hacksaw.

The composition of the aerated concrete block includes a cement-lime mixture, a foaming agent, which is most often used as aluminum powder. To increase the strength of this cellular material, the finished blocks are kept under high pressure and temperature. Air bubbles inside give a certain level of thermal insulation, but the building will still have to be insulated at least from the outside.

Many people think that to protect the outer walls from cold and moisture, it is enough to simply plaster them. The plaster will perform not only a decorative, but also a protective function, it really retains heat a little. However, in the future, many face problems.

In order to answer whether it is necessary to insulate buildings made of foam concrete, you first need to consider in more detail the structure of the material. It contains cells filled with air, but their pores are open, that is, it is vapor-permeable and absorbs moisture. So for comfortable housing and efficient use of heating, you need to use heat, hydro and vapor barrier.

Builders recommend erecting such buildings with a wall thickness of 300–500 mm. But these are only norms for the stability of the building, we are not talking about thermal insulation here. For such a house, external protection from the cold is required in at least one layer. It should be borne in mind that, according to their thermal insulation characteristics, stone wool or foam slabs with a thickness of 100 mm replace 300 mm of aerated concrete walls.

Another important point- this is the "dew point", that is, the place in the wall where the positive temperature turns negative. Condensation accumulates in the strip where zero degrees are, this is due to the fact that aerated concrete is hygroscopic, that is, it easily passes moisture. Over time, under the influence of temperatures, this liquid will destroy the structure of the block.

Therefore, due to external insulation, it is best to transfer the “dew point” to the outer insulating layer, especially since polystyrene, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other materials are less susceptible to destruction.

Even if, under the influence of cold and moisture, the outer insulation collapses over time, it is much easier to replace it than destroyed and deformed blocks. By the way, this is why it is recommended to install insulation on the outside, and not inside the building.

If you plan to build cozy house in which the family can live comfortably all year round, and walls made of relatively fragile material will not collapse, then you should definitely take care of thermal insulation. Moreover, the costs for it will not be so significant, several times less than the installation of the gas silicate walls themselves.

Ways

Houses made of aerated concrete are insulated on the outside on the facade, inside under a fine interior finish. Do not forget about the insulation of the floor and ceiling. First, consider ways to insulate walls from the outside.

"Wet" facade

The so-called wet facade is a simple and cheap way to insulate a building from foam blocks, but it is also quite effective. The method consists in fixing mineral wool slabs with glue and plastic dowels. Instead of mineral wool, foam or other similar materials can be used. Outside, a reinforcing mesh is hung on the insulation, then the surface is plastered.

Before starting work, the surface of the walls is cleaned of dust and primed special composition for foam blocks of deep penetration. After the primer has completely dried, glue is applied, for this it is best to use a notched trowel. There are many adhesives for installing insulation boards, they are produced in the form of dry mixtures, which are diluted with water and kneaded with a mixer. An example is Ceresit CT83 outdoor adhesive.

Until the glue dries, a sickle is applied to it so that it covers the entire wall without gaps. Then they proceed to gluing the insulating boards, this work should not cause problems even for an amateur. Mineral wool is applied to the surface covered with adhesive and pressed firmly. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plates are evenly spaced, there are no gaps between them. It is optimal to lay each subsequent row with a shift of half the slab.

Installation of insulating plates goes from bottom to top. Ideally, after laying each row, hammer in the dowels while the glue is still wet. For a “wet” facade, there are special plastic dowels-umbrellas 120–160 mm long on sale, there is a metal screw inside. They are hammered into gas silicate blocks without special efforts with an ordinary hammer. It is necessary to fasten them so that the hat is slightly recessed into the insulator.

When all the plates are installed and the dowels-umbrellas are clogged, you must wait until the inner layer is completely dry, then apply a second layer of glue to the entire surface. After these procedures, with complete drying, decorative plaster can be applied. With a wall thickness of 300-375 mm blocks, together with insulation, 400-500 mm is obtained.

Ventilated facade

This is a more complex version of wall insulation with gas blocks. It requires the installation of a crate of wooden beams or metal profiles. This method allows you to use a more diverse finish for siding, decorative stone or wood. For a ventilated facade, the same insulating materials are used as for a “wet” one: mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam plastic, expanded polystyrene.

Advantages and disadvantages

The following advantages of a ventilated facade can be noted:

• longer service life of insulating materials;
• effective protection against moisture;
• additional soundproofing;
• protection against deformation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks;
• fire safety.

Immediately it is worth noting its disadvantages:

• relatively short service life;
• a great skill in installation is required, otherwise there will be no air cushion;
• due to the ingress of condensate and its freezing in winter, swelling may occur.

Installation steps

The installation process of a ventilated facade begins with the installation of an insulating layer. Here, as in the previous version, any tiled insulating materials are used, for example, all the same mineral wool. The wall is cleaned, primed in 2-3 layers, after the primer dries, glue for foam blocks is applied with a notched trowel. Then, as on the “wet facade”, sheets of insulator are laid on the sickle, dowels-umbrellas are attached. The difference from the first method is that not glue is applied over the mineral wool, but a moisture-windproof membrane or a wind barrier is strengthened.

After the glue dries, preparation for the installation of the crate begins. For example, consider its construction of wood. It is best to take vertical bars 100 by 50 or 100 by 40 mm, and for horizontal jumpers - 30 x 30 or 30 x 40 mm.

Before work, they must be treated with an antiseptic. The bars are attached to the wall with anchors for aerated concrete, and between themselves with wood screws, preferably galvanized.

First, vertical bars are installed on top of the wind barrier along the entire length of the wall. Step should not be more than 500 mm. After that, vertical jumpers are installed in the same way. It is worth remembering that the level under one plane must be observed everywhere. At the final stage, siding or another type of decorative finish is attached to the crate.

Less often, when arranging private houses, the heavy method of the “wet facade” is used. For him, the foundation of the building expands, the insulation rests on it and is attached to powerful metal hooks. A reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulating layer and then plaster is applied, which can be covered with decorative stone.

Another option for external insulation of a house made of gas silicate blocks is the exterior decoration with facing bricks. A protective layer of air is formed between the brick wall and aerated concrete. This method allows you to create a beautiful exterior of the facade of the building, but it is quite expensive, and the laying of facing bricks requires special professionalism.

After external insulation of walls made of foam blocks, it is worth starting to install internal insulation. It is better not to use completely vapor-tight materials here, as the wall seems to be clogged and the building does not breathe. It is best to use ordinary plaster for interior work. The dry mixture is diluted with water, kneaded with a mixer and applied to a vertical surface, then leveled. Before plastering, do not forget about priming the walls and fixing the sickle.

Inside such a house, you should definitely insulate the floor, ceiling and roof. To do this, you can use various methods and materials, for example, mount a crate, inside which to place stone wool or foam slabs, create a “warm floor” system with heating, use a screed with an additional protective layer, lay rolled heat-insulating materials in the attic.

When insulating the floor and ceiling in a private house, do not forget about their protection from moisture and steam.

Varieties of materials

To decide which insulation is better to choose for your home, you must not only take into account the price of the material and installation, but also know their properties.

Stone wool is traditionally insulated with walls of houses, floors and roofs, sewer pipes, water supply and heat supply. It is widely used for thermal insulation of buildings made of aerated concrete, it is the most popular material in the "wet facade" technology, ventilated facade. It is made from mineral raw materials, mainly basalt, under the influence of high temperatures by pressing and extruding fibers.

You can use stone wool to protect against frost when building a building from scratch or in a house that has already been built a long time ago. Due to its structure, it promotes good air circulation, so in combination with porous foam blocks it will allow the house to “breathe”. This material is not subject to combustion: at high temperatures and an open flame, its fibers will only melt and stick together, so this is a completely fireproof option.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity of mineral wool is the highest among all materials. In addition, it is made on natural raw materials, without harmful impurities, it is an environmentally friendly material. It is absolutely impossible to get wet, it immediately becomes unusable, therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to use waterproofing correctly.

You can insulate the facade of a house made of aerated concrete with foam plastic. In terms of its popularity, it is practically not inferior to mineral wool, while it has high thermal insulation characteristics and low cost. The consumption of material compared to mineral wool with the same layer is almost one and a half times less. It is easily cut and attached to the wall of foam blocks using plastic dowels-umbrellas. An important advantage of foam plastic is that its plates have a flat surface, they are rigid and do not require crates and guides during installation.

Styrofoam density from 8 to 35 kg per cu. m, thermal conductivity 0.041–0.043 W per micron, fracture resistance 0.06–0.3 MPa. These characteristics depend on the selected grade of material. The foam cells do not have pores, so it practically does not allow moisture and steam to pass through, which is also a good indicator. It has good sound insulation, does not emit harmful substances and resistant to various chemicals. Conventional foam plastic is quite combustible material, but when flame retardants are added, its fire hazard is reduced.

A good option would be to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with a basalt slab. This material is very similar to mineral wool, but harder, it can be installed without guides, simply glued in even rows to the wall. A basalt slab is made from rocks: basalt, dolomite, limestone, some types of clay by melting at a temperature of over 1500 degrees and obtaining fibers. In terms of density, it is almost the same as polystyrene, it is easily cut into fragments, attached to the wall retains sufficient rigidity.

Modern varieties of basalt slabs are highly hydrophobic, that is, their surface practically does not absorb water. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, do not emit harmful substances when heated, are vapor-permeable, and have excellent sound insulation.

Glass wool has been used for a long time, but has recently been replaced by other more practical and effective materials. Its main drawback is still considered by many to be harmful to the skin and respiratory tract during work. Its small particles are easily separated and float in the air. An important advantage over all other common heat insulators is the low cost of glass wool.

Glass wool is easy to transport as it folds into compact rolls. It is a non-combustible material with good sound insulation.

It is best to install glass wool thermal protection with the installation of the crate. Another advantage is that rodents are afraid of this material and do not create their minks in the thickness of thermal insulation.

Ecowool is a fairly new heat-insulating material made from cellulose, various remnants of paper and cardboard. To protect against fire, a fire retardant is added to it, and to prevent decay, antiseptics are added. It is low cost, environmentally friendly and has low thermal conductivity. It is installed in a crate on the wall of the building. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting that ecowool intensively absorbs moisture and decreases in volume over time.

Penoplex or expanded polystyrene is a fairly effective material for insulating walls from foam blocks. It is a fairly solid and rigid plate with grooves on the edges. Possesses durability, protection against moisture, durability and low vapor permeability.

To reduce costs and time for the arrangement of enclosing structures in low-rise and monolithic construction, aerated concrete blocks Teplon are actively used. Previously, they were used to create a heat-insulating layer and were located behind a row of facing bricks. Is it necessary to insulate aerated concrete, which has good heat saving performance?

Preservation of heat inside a closed volume is facilitated by the presence of a stationary air environment. Such air in itself is the best insulation. The presence of air-filled pores in the body of the block explains the good thermal insulation qualities that aerated concrete walls possess.

Such pores are obtained by adding a blowing agent to the composition of the mixture. It begins to act under the influence of high temperature in the autoclave, where the molds filled with the composition are placed. Exiting through the thickness of the material, the gas leaves behind a labyrinth of small hollow volumes.

The specific heat capacity coefficient of an individual block is much lower than that of a façade wall. It increases due to the formation of cold bridges that appear when using a cement-sand mortar. You can avoid their appearance by using a special adhesive composition for the walls.

The specific heat capacity coefficient of a block is 3 times lower than that of a brick. If we assume that the calculated thickness of a brick wall for central Russia should be about 600 mm, then the thickness aerated concrete walls outside the building must be at least 200 mm.

Even if both the thickness of the wall and the mortar used for fastening the blocks fully comply with the required parameters, it is still recommended to insulate the house from aerated concrete for the following reasons:

1. Insulation for aerated concrete will reduce the cost of energy spent.
2. The thermal insulator will protect the material of the walls of the house from the outside from the effects of water, frost, wind, thereby extending the life of the house.
3. The heat insulator shifts the dew point outside the rooms and walls of gas silicate, providing normal operating conditions for the material.

The dew point is a place in the thickness of a building structure with zero temperature. Many points create an imaginary plane in the wall over its entire area. Water condensate is formed here, which, freezing, gradually destroys stone building materials.

The use of insulation on a standard wall allows you to create the same energy saving effect, the same as that of a 400 mm aerated concrete house. Installing an insulator allows you to achieve the same savings result for less money, without putting undue pressure on the foundation.

Do I need to insulate aerated concrete - watch the video - an alternative opinion:

What's better?

After the answer is given whether it is necessary to insulate the house from aerated concrete, it's time to answer the next one. What is the best way to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside?

First, let's figure out how the wall material works without insulation. Aerated concrete Teplon has good vapor permeability.

At a positive air temperature, the water vapor produced in the premises enters the atmosphere through the pores. At negative temperatures, the dew point shifts inside the wall. Water vapor through the pores reaches this point and freezes, eventually causing the destruction of the blocks.

Let's compare two heaters, radically different in their composition and physico-chemical properties: mineral and polystyrene foam.

Indicator	Mineral	Styrofoam
Thermal conductivity coefficients, units	0.03	0.026
Service life, years	> 50	> 50
fire hazard	low	high
Chemical passivity	low	high
Biological activity	low	low
Water absorption	high	zero
Vapor permeability	high	zero
Do-it-yourself installation	available	available

Comparative analytics shows that mineral wool is most suitable for "breathing" aerated concrete Teplon . Its vapor permeability is much higher than that of the wall material, which allows water vapor to freely leave the interior and the heat insulator layer. Thus, a normal microclimate in the room is ensured, the safety of the blocks and the heat-saving ability of the insulation material.

Is it possible to insulate such houses with polystyrene foam? It is possible, but as a result of the insulation of aerated concrete with foam plastic, we get a greenhouse effect. Why is this happening? Zero vapor permeability prevents water vapor from escaping into environment. It accumulates in rooms and gas blocks. Ventilation and airing only partially solve the problem of removing steam from the air of rooms. The humidity of aerated concrete when the facade is insulated from the outside with foam plastic increases by 4-5%, which negatively affects its performance.

Do not install polystyrene foam insulation in the immediate vicinity of gas ducts.

Outside or inside?

To establish a reliable truth, it is necessary to consider what are the pros and cons of insulating walls made of aerated concrete from one side or the other.

• insulation of aerated concrete from the inside

Indicator	A plus	Minus	Consequences
Effective area		-	Reduced by 150 mm along each external wall
Dew point		-	Moves inside the room, causing an increase in humidity, the development of fungus and mold, the destruction of walls
Labor costs	+		Can work in all weather conditions, no need for scaffolding
Acquisition costs	+		Cheaper materials can be used
Finishing	+		It is possible to install drywall on top of the insulation, which reduces the time and cost of finishing
Elimination of cold bridges		-	Not happening

Indicator	A plus	Minus	Consequences
Effective area	+		Remains the same
Dew point	+		Displaced outside the premises and enclosing structures
Labor costs		-	Requires the use of climbing devices, certain weather conditions
Acquisition costs		-	Appropriate materials must be used
Finishing		-	On top of the insulation, a “wet” or ventilated facade is required
Elimination of cold bridges	+		Cold bridges do not form

Internal insulation aerated concrete walls, with their advantages of reducing costs and labor costs, does not solve the main task: creating a layer that ensures the preservation of heat and the integrity of the blocks.

Warming the house from aerated concrete from the outside ensures that it is in a dry, warm state.

We calculate the thickness

Bigger isn't always better. Carrying out high-quality insulation of gas silicate walls with mineral wool, it is necessary to correctly determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. For this, a thermal calculation is performed. It can be done on your own.

All elements of the enclosing structures, including plaster, should participate in the calculation. To calculate, you need to know:

• coefficient of heat resistance for the region;
• specific coefficients of thermal conductivity of wall materials and their thickness;
• thermal conductivity of the insulator.

Initially, we find the thermal resistance coefficients of the available materials by multiplying their thickness in mm by the coefficient. If several materials are used, then their indicators are added up. The resulting amount is subtracted from the total coefficient. The remainder is divided by the specific thermal conductivity of the heat insulator. We get its thickness in mm.

The thicknesses of mineral wool slabs and rolls do not please with the width of the range, therefore we use the material with a width slightly larger than the calculated one.

By insulating with polystyrene foam boards, it is possible to reduce the overspending of the purchased insulation to almost zero due to the wide range of thicknesses provided.

The calculation stage is perhaps the most crucial moment. Expert help may be required. When deciding which insulation material to use, consult with professionals.

We work ourselves

For independent work, you need to know how to insulate a house from aerated concrete. Consider 2 thermal insulation technologies: the arrangement of a “wet” and ventilated facade.

Both allow you to change the design of the facade of the building beyond recognition. Each will ensure the preservation of heat inside and the protection of the walls from the gas block.

For the production of work, it is best to use dense basalt slabs. Before insulating the walls, it is recommended to carry out work on the thermal insulation of gas pipelines, water supply and sewerage systems, and the basement of the building.

"Wet" facade

Before properly insulating a house using the “wet” facade technology, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which includes:

• cleaning the walls from the remnants of mortar and dust;
• surface treatment with a deep penetration primer;
• installation along the perimeter of a horizontal zero bar with the same width as the thickness of the insulation.

To fix the plates on a vertical surface, an adhesive composition is used. Its preparation is carried out immediately before work by mixing with water according to the attached instructions. After that, it is well mixed with a construction mixer.

Application is carried out with a notched trowel over the entire surface of the plate.

After application, the plate is pressed against the wall and fixed. Laying is recommended to be carried out in a checkerboard pattern without the formation of voids. It is necessary to monitor the horizontal and vertical laying.

After the final hardening of the mixture (the time is indicated in the instructions for use), the plates are fixed with the help of umbrella dowels. Their installation must be carried out with recessing into the insulator layer by 1-2 mm.

After that, the installation of a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is carried out, followed by its fixation with glue. After drying, plaster and putty for external use are applied with or without painting. It is possible to apply putty and painted decorative facade plaster.

Ventilated facade

To prepare the surface for the arrangement of a ventilated facade, it is enough to clean it from dirt, dust, mortar. We make installation of a vertical crate for the organization of a ventilating gap. Vapor barrier insulation is fixed on the entire surface of the insulated wall. It will not allow water vapor to penetrate into the thickness of the insulator.

We lay the heat insulator in 2 layers, perpendicular to each other. The 2nd layer should overlap the joints of the first. To do this, we install a horizontal wooden crate made of timber with a thickness of 50 mm and a height equal to half the thickness of the insulation used.

The width between the beams should be less than the width of the plates by 30 mm. This will allow you to install the plates by surprise without the use of additional fasteners. The higher the density of the slab, the greater the likelihood of its stable position in the crate.

When installing the guides, we monitor their horizontalness with the help of a level. We lay the first layer of heat insulator.

Similarly to the first, we install the crate of the second layer. Only vertical. We monitor the verticality to prevent the formation of voids when laying the thermal insulator.

We install, and with the help of a construction stapler we fix the waterproofing film, which additionally performs the function of wind protection. We nail a counter rail 50 mm wide and high enough for mounting the finish. In its quality, siding, lining, imitation of timber and other sheet, lamella, panel materials are used.

It is necessary to insulate aerated concrete. This will ensure the comfort of living, reduce heating costs, and extend the life of the structure.

Insulation of the walls of the house is a very important issue that should be given special attention when designing and building a private dwelling.

It does not matter what building materials you will use when building a house, experts recommend insulating not only the roof and floor of the building, but also the walls.

This is necessary for thermal insulation, as well as to avoid the formation of fungus on the walls and for better preservation of building materials.

In order to solve the problem associated with the insulation of the walls of residential and industrial buildings and structures, there are a large number of different materials on the market that are best suited for this purpose.

By insulating the room, you thereby improve its sound insulation, which is an important point in construction.

Why is so much attention paid to the issue of wall insulation at home? The answer is obvious. Approximately 30% of heat escapes through non-insulated walls.. With existing modern prices for energy carriers, this is quite an impressive figure. Why heat the street? You need to learn how to count your money and spend it rationally.

Suitable materials for insulation are:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• penoplex;
• penofol;
• penoizol;
• polyurethane foam.

Aerated concrete walls can be insulated both from the inside and from the outside of the building.

Which method you use will depend on the following factors:

• specifics of the structure;
• goals pursued by the property owner;
• financial resources of the homeowner.

Advantages external insulation :

• Sufficiently high level of protection from the cold.
• The "usable" area inside the premises is preserved.
• You can spend much less money on heating your home during the cold season.
• The walls will be reliably protected from temperature changes.
• For external wall insulation, there is a large selection of materials on the market.

This type of wall insulation has no drawbacks.

Differences in insulation methods

Advantages and disadvantages internal way wall insulation:

1. In order to carry out this set of measures, the owner of the house will require much more financial and labor costs.
2. The walls of the house are insulated from the inside only when, for some reason, it is not possible to perform external insulation.
3. As a rule, this method is used only for thermal insulation of rooms that are not heated at full capacity.

All experts in the field of construction unanimously agree that it is best to insulate the walls of buildings and structures from the outside.

Why is it better to insulate walls from the outside?

If you decide to build a house from cellular concrete, then insulate walls are needed from the outside.

This will prevent the material from freezing, and condensation will not form on the walls inside the house.

What are the other advantages of thermal insulation made from the outside of the building?

1. The appearance of the facade of the building will have a more aesthetic appearance.
2. The heat in the rooms will be stored much more efficiently.
3. The walls will be protected from the destructive effects of precipitation.
4. Cellular concrete absorbs moisture well, and this makes it very difficult to finish the facade.

Aerated concrete walls can not be insulated in only one case - if the house will be built in a warm region.

The main types of insulation and their brief description

The most commonly used materials for this purpose are:

• Styrofoam. It is easy to work with, it is easy to cut and install, small errors that have arisen in the process of working with foam can be easily eliminated with building foam. No special equipment is required to work with this material.
• Penoplex. It has good vapor barrier properties. Extruded polystyrene foam is much thinner than styrofoam and is non-flammable. Its main disadvantage is its high cost.
• polyurethane foam. This material has many positive characteristics. The main quality for which it is valued is ease of installation.
• Mineral wool. The main positive characteristics of thermal insulation material: fire resistance, environmental safety and long service life.

Types of heaters

What insulation is best for cellular concrete walls?

Undoubtedly, the optimal material for thermal insulation of the vertical part of the building, made of gas silicate blocks, basalt (stone) wool is considered.

But, if you are experiencing some financial difficulties, then you can use polystyrene foam for this purpose.

It is much cheaper than mineral wool, but in terms of thermal insulation qualities it is almost not inferior to it. Unfortunately, this material is vapor-tight and will contribute to the accumulation of vapors in aerated concrete blocks.

What does the "pie" of wall insulation from aerated concrete blocks consist of?

We will give an example of a “pie”, where mineral wool is used as a heater:

1. Bearing wall
2. Adhesive solution
3. Insulation - mineral wool
4. Adhesive layer
5. Reinforcing glass mesh
6. Layer decorative plaster.

pie wall

Do I need waterproofing and vapor barrier of the facade under aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete blocks are endowed with such qualities as good vapor permeability and excellent thermal insulation.

At the same time, this building material has one negative characteristic - it strongly absorbs moisture.

It is for this reason that it is imperative to carry out work on the hydro - and vapor barrier of the blocks.

wall pie

Sealing gaps and installing the crate

Before proceeding with the process of thermal insulation of walls erected from aerated concrete blocks, you need to carefully examine the joints for the presence of cracks and small depressions in them.

If there are significant voids at the joints, they must be filled with mounting foam.

• The remaining foam will need to be cut off with a knife. All other seams should be treated with a special compound - masonry glue. Thus, you will protect the aerated concrete walls to the maximum from excessive moisture.
• Ordinary mortar can also be used to treat walls.. After the surface has dried, it must be carefully cleaned with a spatula or sandpaper(it should be perfectly flat).
• If the building is old, it may be necessary to restore the walls (this must be done in order to get rid of cracks).
• After these works, experts recommend covering everything with a primer layer., to which an antifungal agent will be added. This will protect the material from moisture and microorganisms.

If you decide to finish the house with ceramic-granite tiles or siding, then in this case you will have to mount the crate.

NOTE!

If you plan to install siding on a wooden crate, then you first need to install a vertical crate. Pay attention to the following important point: the thickness of the bars should correspond to the thickness of the mineral wool.

The heat-insulating material itself must be inserted between these rails. Then the insulation must be covered with a vapor-permeable film or durable cellophane.

Step-by-step instructions for thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool

Mineral wool is a material with a cellular structure that has high thermal insulation characteristics. Mineral wool, which is produced in rolls, tends to sag over time, and products manufactured in the form of mats are considered more durable.

Mats are able to maintain their dimensions and heat-saving properties throughout the entire period of operation. For this reason, the facades and walls of buildings are most often insulated with this heat-insulating material.

Work sequence:

1. If during the laying of walls from gas silicate blocks moisture got on them, then before starting work on thermal insulation, they need to be given time ( at least 1-3 months) to dry well. If you "lock" the moisture that has entered the thickness of the material, this will contribute to the freezing of the walls and the destruction of the blocks.
2. Next, you need to carefully examine all the outer seams. Mortar seams must be re-sealed.. For this purpose, polyurethane foam is best suited.
3. Polyurethane mounting foam must also fill all cracks and voids on the surface of cellular concrete.
4. To maintain good adhesive properties of the adhesive composition, the surface of the blocks must be cleaned with sandpaper.

Insulation under facing brick

Fastening with dowels

Do not forget to check the availability of communication channels before starting work.

The technique of insulating walls made of aerated concrete with mineral wool can be carried out using special adhesives, and you can also use the method of dry thermal insulation.

We'll take a closer look at the second method:

1. Brackets need to be attached to the wall., on which guides will subsequently be installed.
2. Further, with the help of plastic dowels, it is necessary to mount mineral wool boards. The boards should be installed at a distance, the occurrence of gaps and voids between the sheets of material should be avoided, as it can lead to the appearance of "cold bridges".
3. On top of the heat-insulating layer must be laid windproof breathable film. The film is overlapped in increments of 10-15 cm, the seams are pecked with mounting tape.
4. To ensure ventilation, it is necessary to provide an air gap between the heat-insulating material and the cladding by installing a counter-lattice.
5. The final stage is wall cladding with siding.

Thermal insulation foam

Useful video

Video instruction for the insulation of aerated concrete walls:

Summing up

If the insulation of the outer walls is carried out in accordance with all the rules, you will be able to minimize heating costs.

With high-quality insulation of aerated concrete blocks, the durability of the entire structure increases.

The following factor is also important: the work must be carried out with knowledge of the technological process and high quality materials should be used for this purpose.

External insulation of the facade is an effective way to save the living space of the house to reduce heating costs. The choice of thermal insulation depends on what kind of finishing method is chosen - so, if you plan to use a leveling mixture, only 2 materials are suitable: mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Styrofoam is waterproof and cannot be used for wooden buildings, while mineral wool under plaster is suitable for almost all types of facades.

Types of mineral wool

There are 4 types of mineral wool insulation:

1. glass wool- a material characterized by high strength and elasticity. Low hygroscopicity and low thermal conductivity make it the best solution for insulating the external walls of a house. When working with it, it is important to observe safety precautions, since it consists of glass threads that can injure the skin or get into the respiratory tract.
2. Basalt wool consists of diabase and gabbro, has a very low moisture absorption. When in contact with fire, it does not burn, but melts.
3. slag wool- the most budgetary insulation, however, it has several serious drawbacks: high hygroscopicity and thermal conductivity, residual acidity (metal surfaces will oxidize upon contact with it). For high-quality insulation of walls outside the house, a thick layer of material is required.
4. stone wool- fire-resistant vapor-permeable material, practically does not absorb moisture. It has excellent soundproofing properties and durability.

Mineral wool density

The density of mineral wool is one of the important characteristics, it depends on the manufacturing method and determines for which work this insulation is suitable.

For interior work and sound insulation use light mineral wool (30-80 kg / m3).

For ventilated façade take a heater with a density of 80-130 kg / m3.

When installing a "wet facade" use a special facade series. The density of mineral wool for plaster is 130-160 kg / m3. Such material has great strength and is able to withstand the weight of the plaster.

It is produced in slabs with dimensions of 50 * 100 or 60 * 120 cm. The thickness of the material varies from 5 to 15 cm, the most commonly used plates are 10 cm thick. facade insulation you can also use mineral wool in the form of mats (twisted into a roll), but it is more difficult to find such a material of the desired density.

stone wool manufacturers

Mineral wool for external wall insulation is produced by many manufacturers, the most popular are:

• Rockwool (Facade Butts series);
• Ursa(Geo Facade);
• Isover(Facade and Plaster);
• Knauf (TS 032 and TS 034 Aquastatik);
• TechnoNIKOL (Isobox Facade).

The choice of plaster for the facade

The facade is insulated with mineral wool using the “wet facade” technology - all stages are carried out using aqueous solutions, and plastering is used as a finish.

There are 4 types of facade plaster mixtures, the properties of the resulting coating depend on the components that make up the material.

Mineral

For the manufacture of mineral plaster, cement and various additives are used, due to which the plasticity and adhesion of the product increase. To increase strength, microfiber fibers are added to the mixture; some formulations contain components that increase moisture resistance.

Cement mortar has increased strength, but is inferior to other types in plasticity, and therefore it is not recommended to use it for treating walls that can be subjected to serious mechanical stress.

Supplied dry. Popular brands: Knauf, Bolars, Ceresit, Baumit.

Acrylic

Acrylic plaster is a ready-to-use mixture based on acrylic resins with a small addition of mineral components. The coating is plastic, durable and resistant to temperature extremes.

Among the advantages are:

• moisture resistance, which is especially important for coatings used for exterior walls;
• high adhesion;
• a large selection of shades;
• ease of application;
• fast drying;

Examples of manufacturers: Ceresit, Knauf, Bolars, Weber, Technodecor.

silicate

This type of plaster consists of potassium silicate and acrylic resins. Thanks to this combination, the finished coating is durable, vapor-permeable and at the same time plastic and durable. Great for mineral wool.

Among the disadvantages:

• application requires experience;
• work must be done quickly;
• Before applying the plaster, the surfaces must be treated with a silicate primer.

Produced in finished form, in plastic containers of different sizes.

Manufacturers: Baumit, Caparol, Ceresit, Kema.

Silicone

It has all the positive properties of compositions on other bases - it is plastic, vapor-permeable, non-toxic, adheres well to the surface and does not attract dust and dirt. The finished coating is resistant to fading, mold or mildew.

Disadvantages - rather high cost, it is desirable to use a silicone primer as a base.

Supplied ready-made. Produced by: Ceresit, Weber, Baumit.

Of the considered types of plaster, all types are suitable for the construction of a wet facade, except for a mixture based on acrylic. This is due to the fact that acrylic plaster creates a vapor-tight film.

Expert opinion

Alexander Guryanov

Plasterer

If the walls have good vapor permeability, for example, wooden house or made of aerated concrete, then the mineral wool allows the steam to go outside. Acrylic plaster closes the pores. Therefore, condensation will accumulate in the insulation.

Often, in order to save money, builders use a mineral cement composition, but it requires subsequent painting or coating with a decorative layer.

Mineral wool plastering technology

When the installation of the insulation is completed, proceed to the application of the finish. To work with facade plaster, weather conditions must be taken into account - work is carried out on a calm day, when precipitation is not expected, at an air temperature of +5 to +30 ° C (optimally - from +15 to +25 ° C).

Materials and tools you will need:

• fiberglass mesh;
• toothed trowel;
• adhesive solution;
• plaster;
• wide metal spatula;
• metal or plastic grater;
• primer, brush or roller.

How does plaster hold on mineral wool?

In order to ensure better adhesion of the plaster to the insulation, a preliminary installation of a reinforcing mesh on mineral wool slabs is required.

A special adhesive solution with a thickness of at least 2 mm is applied to the surface of the plates with a toothed trowel and, until it is dry, a reinforcing mesh is pressed into it. The surface is leveled with a large spatula or trowel.

Another option is to fix the mesh on the insulation boards with self-tapping screws, and then apply the solution.

Important! The mesh must be fixed with an overlap of 10 cm - if you mount the pieces end-to-end, the plaster may crack over time at the joints.

Work starts from the corners, and in these areas it is desirable to install a perforated corner profile for reinforcement.

After that, the composition must dry completely - this will take at least 3 days.

If silicone or silicate plaster is used, the surface is pre-treated with an appropriate primer, applied with a brush or roller. Waiting for it to dry.

Wall plastering

The selected composition is applied with a wide spatula. When working with acrylic compositions, you need to work quickly, without taking long breaks - otherwise there may be significant color differences in different areas of the dried coating.

For each type of decorative plaster, their own methods of creating textures are used. For example, to create the “bark beetle” effect, manufacturers add mineral fractions to the mixture - pebbles 2-3 mm in size. When rubbing such a composition, grooves are formed on the wall, imitating the texture of a tree eaten by a bark beetle.

Pebble (mosaic) plaster need only be leveled.

To create a "fur coat" on the applied layer, roll it with a roller. You can also use a trowel. It is applied to the solution and quickly withdrawn.

If the finishing is done with a cement-sand mixture, then a pneumatic bucket can be used for plastering. In this case, the solution falls on the wall, creating a “lamb” texture.

Popular textures of decorative facade plaster are shown in the photo below:

You may also be interested in articles:

• Painting a plastered facade
• Painting decorative plaster

Insulate yourself external walls using mineral wool using the "wet facade" technology is quite realistic, however, it is important to follow the order of work and choose materials that are suitable for each other - thermal conductivity, hygroscopicity, thermal expansion coefficient of insulation and plaster must match or have similar values, otherwise the efficiency and service life of the system insulation will be significantly reduced.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete from the outside began to be used quite widely recently. Previously, developers were of the opinion that houses made of such material should not be insulated.

After all, the very structure of aerated concrete suggests that it can be used as a heater for buildings made of brick or monolithic reinforced concrete.

However, as practice has shown recent years, insulated aerated concrete walls retain heat much better inside the building.

Mineral wool insulation

Mineral wool is attached to the crate

Experts in the field of building technologies are of the opinion that it is best to insulate houses built of aerated concrete from the outside, and not from the inside. Because:

• the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room does not decrease by the thickness of the insulation and finishing;
• there is a shift in the dew point outside the masonry, which has a positive effect on the safety and internal condition of the walls;
• fixing the insulation is possible without installing a special crate.

To insulate the walls of a building made of aerated concrete, two main types of heaters are used. One of them is the use of mineral wool. To attach it to the outer side of the wall, a crate of wooden bars measuring 5 x 5 cm is preliminarily installed.

Watch for tight insulation joints so that there are no empty cold zones left.

The distance between the bars corresponds to the width of the mineral wool roll. Mineral wool should enter the crate tightly. Otherwise, air zones or non-insulated areas will form. If financial possibilities allow, the same layer can be installed on top of the vertical crate and the mineral wool placed in it, but already horizontally.

The insulation is covered with a waterproofing membrane, which is attached to the bars with a construction stapler. A bar is attached over the membrane for the installation of facade cladding, which is used as siding or wooden lining.

Provided that mineral wool in the form of mats is used as a heater, its fastening is carried out using a special adhesive solution and the installation of fungi, and a reinforcement mesh is attached on top.

That is, the installation of the crate is not required, which greatly simplifies the work and reduces financial costs.

After applying the reinforcing screed, the wall surface is decorated. As a finishing coating, you can apply the plaster composition "bark beetle".

Styrofoam insulation

The use of polystyrene foam insulation greatly simplifies the work process. However, the surface of the wall must be flat. Typically, aerated concrete wall has such characteristics. However, if there are certain irregularities, they must be eliminated using cement mortar or starting putty for outdoor use. After the surface has dried, you can begin the installation of insulation.

Expanded polystyrene insulation in the construction market is represented by several types: polystyrene foam and foam plastic. All are available in sheet form. different size and may have special grooves for connecting the plates to each other. The grooves allow the panels to be joined tightly to each other.

For strong fastening, the panels are mounted on plastic dowels with wide caps.

Before installing the insulation, the wall is covered with a special antiseptic primer, which prevents the appearance of fungus and improves the adhesion of the insulation to the wall. The plates are fastened with an adhesive solution, which is applied to the entire surface of the insulation. To more firmly strengthen the insulation, it is nailed to the wall with plastic dowels with large caps.

After covering all outer surface walls, the insulation is covered with a reinforced mesh, which ensures a reliable connection of the finish coating with the insulation. Wall plastering is carried out according to the accepted technology for exterior decoration.

However, the use of such heaters leads to a shift in the dew point towards the inner part of the wall, which over time can lead to the destruction of aerated concrete. In addition, the appearance of mold and dampness indoors is possible.

Having opted for these types of insulation, it is better to install them from the inside of the wall. At the same time, work can be performed at any time of the year and in any weather.

Polyurethane foam insulation

This insulation has only recently found its application in construction. residential buildings and industrial buildings. It is well suited for thermal insulation of wall surfaces and has a long service life.

Retaining the ability to pass steam, he, however, is not afraid of moisture. Not susceptible to damage by rodents. Due to the fact that it has excellent adhesion, it can be applied to almost any unprepared surface, and it “glues” to an aerated concrete wall better than other heaters.

He doesn't need additional mounts and materials, therefore, with equal efficiency, it can be applied to aerated concrete both outside the house and on the inside of the wall. At the same time, there is no need to arrange vapor and waterproofing. For detailed information on the insulation of the facade of foam blocks, see this video:

As for the advantages and disadvantages of this insulation, they are all set out in this table:

However, due to its high cost and the high cost of the spraying work itself, it is still rarely used. At the same time, there are practically no installations for its application on free sale.

Drywall insulation

GKL, which is used to insulate the facade, must be painted with vapor-permeable paint

Despite the fact that gypsum boards are used to finish walls made of any building materials, nevertheless, it is gypsum board that is used for finishing inside a house built from aerated concrete blocks. In this case, you can use all types of this material: wall, ceiling, standard, moisture resistant, refractory, combined.

In addition, when using drywall to cover aerated concrete walls indoors, two issues are solved at once:

• interior decoration of the walls is carried out;
• the room is insulated.

In order for drywall to act as a heater, it should be painted with vapor-permeable paint, which is made specifically for aerated concrete. Drywall can be mounted directly on the wall by gluing sheets using the starter or finishing putty. To strengthen the fastening, drywall is fixed with dowel-screws. For more information on how to insulate a house, see this video:

Another option for using drywall is to use the space between the slats or metal rails to fill with thermal insulation material in the form of foam or mineral wool. For finishing, use wallpaper or paint the surface.

The need to insulate the outer surface of walls made of foam concrete is confirmed by the calculations of specialists.

This allows you to significantly save on heating your home.

Which type of insulation to choose depends on the financial capabilities of the developer.

Related articles:

The popularity of aerated concrete is steadily growing from year to year. According to independent statistics, at least a third of all private houses are currently being built from this relatively new material. But not all owners know that such houses require mandatory insulation. In this article I will tell you why it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete, I will dwell in detail on how it is better to insulate a house from aerated concrete from the outside, and most importantly, how to do it yourself.

Not insulated house made of aerated concrete.

Why is it necessary to insulate such houses?

Novice builders love aerated concrete, or as it is also called gas silicate, for several reasons. First of all, the construction of a house does not require sky-high qualifications from a bricklayer. Light large blocks with clear, geometrically regular shapes sit on a special glue, and not on a mortar as usual. Such structures do not require the construction of a powerful foundation, and most importantly, due to the insulation of the wall from the outside, the cost of the project is significantly reduced.

A few words about the nature of the material

By itself, gas silicate belongs to the category of light cellular concrete. Unlike, for example, cinder blocks, the production technology of this material is much more complicated.

Briefly explained, a foaming agent is added to the cement-lime mixture, in this case aluminum powder is used, as a result of which a huge amount of hydrogen is released and many hollow cells form in the body of the block.

Types of aerated concrete blocks.

But initially the porous material has too low mechanical strength and to increase it, at the final stage of production, the blocks are steamed in autoclaves under high pressure and at high temperature. As a result, at the finish we get a fairly strong block with a very low thermal conductivity.

Why insulate such structures

From the school physics course, we know that perhaps the best heat insulator is air and the more pores the material has, the lower its thermal conductivity, and therefore the warmer the house will be.

But the problem of gas silicate is that the pores in these blocks are open, that is, the material is vapor-permeable and is able to absorb moisture. So, the answer to the traditional question - whether it is necessary to protect such walls, is unequivocal: it is necessary, and it is necessary.

Another question is what this protection should be and, for example, is it necessary to have 375 mm walls under small bath protect with insulation or you can do with just plaster.

Average private house made of aerated concrete.

As you know, the thickness of the walls, no matter what they are made of, directly depends on the average annual temperature in a particular region. promises us that for an average private house made of aerated concrete, the minimum is about 300 - 500 mm. But few people specify that in this case, the bearing characteristics of the material are meant. That is, the house will stand.

About, for example, whether a 500 mm wall needs to be insulated, as well as what thickness of insulation is needed, is often silent. As for thermal conductivity, then, for example, for the Moscow region and the center of Russia, the thickness of an exclusively gas silicate wall without insulation starts from 70 cm.

Therefore, those who decide to build a house somewhere in the middle lane and are considering whether 300 mm of the outer wall need to be insulated or simply plastered should be taken into account that if you finish the house on the outside with mineral wool or foam plastic, then a 100 mm thick slab replaces the aerated concrete array in 300 mm.

From this we conclude that for a half-meter wall in this region, ten-centimeter thermal insulation is needed, if the wall is thinner than 300 - 400 mm, then the thermal insulation becomes more massive.

Temperature distribution in a wall with insulation.

In numbers, it will look something like this. The level of heat transfer by a 300 mm aerated concrete wall, according to the documents, is about 1.25 mºС / W. For temperate climate the center of our country, this value should be at least 3.2 mºС / W.

The missing 1.95 mºС / W is completely compensated by a cotton or foam insulation with a thickness of 100 mm or more. This is the minimum allowable value, of course, the higher it is, the less money you will spend on heating.

The average price of erecting 1 m² of a gas silicate wall 300 mm thick now fluctuates around 1000 rubles. But for the arrangement of a warming cotton covering of 100 mm, half the funds will be needed, that is, up to 500 rubles. So draw your own conclusions.

In addition to the level of thermal conductivity of the material, there is another important nuance. In building heat engineering there is such a thing as "dew point". This term characterizes the place inside the outer wall with zero temperature. It is at this point that minus and plus meet, which means that most of the condensate accumulates there.

Dew point in the walls.

As I said, the gas silicate material is hygroscopic and if the dew point is inside the block, then when the temperature fluctuates, the moisture in this sector will alternately freeze and thaw, thereby gradually destroying the block.

There is only one way out, try to move this dew point to the heater. Firstly, the insulation is less prone to destruction when moisture freezes, and secondly, even if it deteriorates over time, it is much easier and cheaper to change it than to completely repair a crumbling wall. By the way, this explains the need to install insulation on the outside of the house.

Material selection

First, a few words about the choice of aerated concrete itself. This material has several levels of density, the gradation goes from 350 units and above in steps of 50 - 100 units. That is 400, 500, 600 and so on.

The higher the value, the denser and stronger the material. But there is also a downside here, the lower the density of the material, the higher its thermal insulation characteristics, which means that the wall can be made thinner.

Characteristics of aerated concrete blocks.

Many are interested in whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete of 400 units, if the walls are planned to be made thick and, theoretically, the level of heat transfer completely covers the maximum possible value in the region.

I think that it is necessary to do this, just instead of a layer of 100 mm, it is enough to mount plates of 50 mm. This is explained by the need to move the dew point outside the blocks. In addition, gas silicate brand D400 is figuratively speaking the “softest”, and if it is simply plastered, then such a coating will begin to crumble in a couple of years.

Now let's move on to the question of how to insulate the house from the outside of aerated concrete, so much so that it is decent and relatively inexpensive. In this case, there are only two main contenders. These are high density mineral wool boards and good old foam.

But before I talk about them, I want to dwell separately on one of the most frequently asked questions to me, is it possible to insulate houses from gas silicate with penoplex? In order to answer it, you must first understand what penoplex is.

One of the types of Penoplex.

Extruded polystyrene foam, or by association with the foam manufacturer, is the closest relative of the foam. Both of them are made from the same material, but using different technologies. I will not go into the intricacies of technology, I will only say that extruded polystyrene foam, unlike polystyrene foam, has a dense cellular structure with closed pores. As a result, it absolutely does not allow moisture to pass through and has high strength.

This is good for insulating a concrete foundation, basement or roof, but the walls of an aerated concrete house cannot be insulated from the outside with polystyrene foam. The fact is that aerated concrete is a vapor-permeable material. And, as you know, the movement of steam through the walls goes in the direction from the inside to the street.

If you pack the house on top in a strong, absolutely impenetrable shell, moisture will accumulate in the walls under this shell, thereby increasing their thermal conductivity and contributing to destruction.

But this is not the worst. Figuratively speaking, living in an expensive plastic bag is a very dubious pleasure, and to ensure a normal microclimate in such a house, you will have to seriously invest in high-quality forced ventilation. So, no matter how you praise penoplex, I do not recommend it for insulating aerated concrete walls.

Dense cotton mats.

Now back to the age-old question of all developers, mineral wool slabs or foam sheets. I do not take the liberty to say that any of these materials is unambiguously better or worse. Both of them have a roughly equal number of supporters and opponents, so let's compare together:

• If we take purely technical indicators, then the thermal conductivity of both materials is approximately the same, for polystyrene it is even slightly lower. So everything is equal here;
• The level of mechanical strength is also approximately at the same level.. Although in this case it should be noted that dense cotton wool, albeit not much, but still surpasses polystyrene in elasticity;
• Mice, birds and other small gnawing and pecking animals absolutely cannot tolerate mineral wool. While in the foam sheathing they are happy to make their nests. But this is if there is free access to the foam, according to the technology, the insulation is at least covered with a layer of reinforced plaster, which is a reliable barrier for rodents and birds;

Insulating foam boards.

• Often one of the decisive arguments in favor of polystyrene is an accessible instruction.. Whatever you say, I can say with full responsibility that it is much easier to install foam plastic insulation at home. Such plates can be easily cut with an ordinary knife, and the gaps that arise during installation can be quickly blown out with foam. Cutting cotton wool is also not difficult, but when working with it, you will have to get tight overalls, goggles and gloves;
• Mineral wool does not burn, that is, it is absolutely fireproof. Styrofoam also refers to self-extinguishing materials. In other words, if a fire breaks out, it will burn or at least melt, and in the process of burning it releases rather toxic gases. Although, in order to set fire to the facade of a building where there is concrete on one side and plaster on the other, it only needs to be poured with gasoline or make fires around the house;
• I have already mentioned such an important characteristic for gas silicate as the vapor permeability of the exterior.. So, for mineral wool, it is certainly higher, for foam plastic with a density of up to 25 kg / m³, this indicator is on the borderline of the permissible. Although how much I had to work with polystyrene, I have never seen moisture accumulate under the sheets, which means that everything is in order in this parameter;
• Mineral wool is afraid of moisture, if the outer plaster or wind barrier is damaged, it will quickly become saturated with water and become unusable. Rot and mold in such mats will not start, but there will be no sense from wet insulation. While foam is not afraid of moisture, being vapor permeable, it does not accumulate moisture in itself;
• And finally, the decisive argument for many is the price.. The cost of high-quality mineral wool significantly exceeds the price of polystyrene foam.

The table below shows the average parameters of the materials that are most often used to insulate houses made of cellular concrete types.

In theory, such houses can also be insulated with polyurethane foam and the so-called ecowool, these materials are types of foam. But I don’t see the point in dwelling on them in detail in this article, because the cost of such an arrangement is several times higher than the price of installing mineral wool and polystyrene combined. Plus, it’s not realistic to do it with your own hands; professionals with special equipment are needed there.

Simple home insulation technologies

We figured out the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete and how to insulate it, now it's time to find out how this is done correctly. In fairness, it should be said that there are several different effective insulation technologies. For you, I have chosen only those that can be brought to life with your own hands.

Scheme of insulation for facing bricks.

For example, laying a heater between an aerated concrete wall and a layer of facing bricks is a very effective method. But, firstly, laying facing bricks requires a highly qualified professional bricklayer, and secondly, such a system will cost a round sum.

Simple and cheap

This method among professionals is called "Wet facade". In general, its essence is extremely simple. Plate insulation is simply glued to the walls, after which it is finished with one of the many varieties of decorative plaster. Moreover, in this case, it is not so important that you use foam plastic or dense mineral wool slabs, the installation principle is the same for them.

Arrangement of a cotton facade.

• Naturally, any surface must be prepared in a certain way before finishing. The preparation of aerated concrete is not much different from similar work on other types of concrete. From the walls with an ordinary broom or brush, you will need to brush off the dust and cover them with several layers of soil under cellular concrete with deep penetration;

Applying primer to the wall.

• There is one subtlety here. As you remember, gas silicate is divided according to the density of the blocks. So the higher this density, the less soil you will need. So on blocks D400 it is supposed to apply about 4 layers of a strengthening composition. For gas blocks D500 and D600, three layers are already enough. On walls with a higher level of density, one, maximum two layers can be dispensed with.
• You can start the main stage of work only after the walls covered with soil are completely dry. It is very convenient when the house was built on a wide strip or block foundation and the plinth protrudes at least 50 mm. This platform will be enough to support a light cotton or foam "fur coat".

Foam lining.

• But, unfortunately, this does not always work out, many owners fill in a narrow foundation tape and the walls go flush, and sometimes even hang over the foundation. To build a house, such a support is enough, but we will have to mount a separate border for our decoration.

Starting L-shaped profile for horizontal fixation.

• I usually use an L-shaped support profile for this purpose. Such profiles come in different widths and, as a rule, are produced according to the size range of cotton slabs. Since the dimensions of the foam are almost the same, and the weight of the material is less, these same profiles can be successfully used for any slab insulation. This structure is fastened along a horizontal mark with anchors with a pitch of 250 - 300 mm.

Wrapping the wall with cotton.

Continuous application of glue with a notched trowel onto the foam board.

• A notched trowel with a tooth depth of about 5 mm is best suited for applying adhesive to the slab. Please note that when working on lightweight cellular concrete, the adhesive must be applied to the slabs in a continuous layer. In the photo on the network, you can sometimes see how the master applies glue at several points. This approach is justified for solid brick or concrete walls, aerated concrete and other cellular materials require a continuous application of the composition.

Fixation with an umbrella over a sickle.

The laying technique itself is not difficult even for beginners. The plates are glued closely, if possible without gaps. Each subsequent row comes with a shift of half or at least part of the plate.

To achieve a better result, I prefer to do two-layer insulation. That is, instead of one layer of thick plates, I glue two layers of thin ones. It comes out the same in thickness, and there are no gaps at all due to overlap and shift between the layers.

• The outer arrangement of cotton wool or polystyrene consists of 4 layers. I'm used to doing it my own way, so I'll tell you first about my proven technique. After the glue sets, I apply another layer of the same glue over the insulation and, while it is still wet, I sink a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, the so-called sickle, into it. It is not difficult to do this with a spatula or needle roller.

Scheme for fixing plastic dowels "umbrellas".

• Further, again, while the glue is still wet, the slab insulation, together with the sickle, is additionally attached to the wall with “umbrellas” (plastic dowels with wide perforated caps). A hole is simply drilled with a puncher to the desired depth, the dowel body is inserted into it and the inner rod is clogged. But before the final fixation, the dowel cap must be slightly pressed into the sheet so that it does not protrude much above the surface.

The easiest way to insulate the facade.

• After all the "umbrellas" are clogged, leave the wall alone, let the glue layer dry. On a dry mesh-reinforced adhesive layer, you will need to apply another of the same layer. And only after the second adhesive layer has dried, you can start applying decorative plaster. For this, I usually use a ready-made plaster composition for the Bark beetle finish, although some prefer to put on a Fur Coat, it comes out cheaper.

Plastic perforated dowel "umbrella".

The traditional instructions for finishing a wet facade sound a little different. In it, the slab insulation after gluing is immediately fixed with umbrellas, and after that the first layer of glue is already applied, a sickle is applied to it, a second layer of glue is applied to the sickle, and after drying, the wall is finished with decorative plaster.

Capital ventilated insulation

In the so-called ventilated facade, we will also use foam plastic or mineral wool boards as the main insulation, but the construction itself is done more thoroughly. This approach allows you to clad the walls of houses not only with simple decorative plaster, but already apply any type of siding, although in the case of aerated concrete, it is desirable that the finish is not very heavy.

Guide battens on a house made of cellular concrete.

At the beginning of this article, we talked about whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 400 units. So, soft gas silicate brand D400 with a fairly low thermal conductivity also has a low density. In other words, it is not advisable to hang massive structures on such a wall, if you overdo it too much, then the anchor will simply be pulled out of the wall. Therefore, a ventilated facade is better suited for denser types of aerated concrete.

Now another rather important issue is the choice of mounting anchors. A porous array requires reinforced fasteners of a special configuration. An ordinary self-tapping screw with a plastic dowel will not hold well.

The configuration and dimensions of such mounts may be different, but the principle is always the same. The rod is freely immersed in the hole, and when screwed, it expands or releases hooks.

Hooks on an anchor for aerated concrete.

This article is intended for people who are fluent in traditional household tools such as a drill, grinder, screwdriver, etc., but are not professional builders. Therefore, I will talk about the simplest technique for installing a ventilated facade, which is available even to amateurs.

We will start from the fact that we need to mount a structure with an insulation thickness of 100 mm. For example, under a standard, lightweight and relatively inexpensive plastic siding. The preparation here is the same as in the previous type of finish. Only in this case, the strengthening soil should not be regretted, because here we are directly interested in increasing the strength of the outer layer.

General scheme of a ventilated facade.

• The horizontal bar from below, if of course it is needed there, is mounted in the same way as in the case of a wet facade. Next, we need two types of wooden bars. One set with a section of 100x50 or 100x40 mm, and the other with a section of 30x30 or 30x40 mm, and they should be equally;
• Naturally, all wood is pre-impregnated with an antiseptic. For fastening, mounting anchors for aerated concrete and galvanized wood screws will be used;

Cotton wool between the guides.

• First, on a primed, dry wall, load-bearing bars 100x50 mm are attached vertically, with a narrow side to the surface. The step of fixing them with anchors to aerated concrete should not exceed half a meter;
• The distance between the bearing bars should be discussed separately. If you insulate with foam plastic and the width of the sheet is about half a meter, then the step of the guides is measured clearly according to the foam plastic, sheets that are too wide will have to be cut in half. Mineral mats are a little different. The slab should fit tightly between the beams, as tightly as possible, which means that the beams should be mounted 2-3 cm narrower than the width of the mineral mat;
• When the beams are standing, apply a layer of glue to the insulation boards with a notched trowel and glue them to the walls between the beams. In theory, glue can not be used, because the plates have nowhere to go, they are clamped on both sides by guides, and a wind protection sheet is stretched on top.

Fixed wind barrier.

• With foam, this can still somehow pass, and cotton wool without gluing will shrink up to 5%. So it’s better not to save money, put the plates on glue and additionally fix them with umbrellas, especially since this is required by the instructions;
• As we remember, the width of the bearing beam and the thickness of the plates are the same for us, which means that the surface should turn out to be even. A wind protection sheet is stretched from above, this is especially important for cotton mats. And you need to buy exactly wind protection, if you save money and take polyethylene, then the film will sweat, naturally the insulation will get wet;

Fastening one of the types of siding to a wooden crate.

• At the initial stage, in order for the canvas to somehow hold on, drive in a few carnations or use a stapler. Now, on top of the windproof cloth, directly on the bearing bars 100x50 mm, they are fastened with self-tapping screws or the 30x40 mm strips are simply nailed;
• They will serve as the basis for the front finish and at the same time provide a gap for ventilation. Now it remains to choose the cladding and screw it to the wooden planks on top of the insulation. That's basically the whole technology.

Internal finishing of aerated concrete

We remember that aerated concrete is a vapor-permeable material, therefore, it is undesirable to clog it both from the outside and from the inside. Plaster is recognized as the best type of interior decoration here, but unlike dense surfaces, cellular concrete requires a plaster layer 2 times thicker, which is about 15 mm or more.

To some extent, tiled rooms with high humidity, such as kitchens and bathrooms, are an exception. There, at first, a layer of cement plaster with a thickness of about 5 - 7 mm is arranged, and tiles are already laid on it.

Reinforcement of the wall with sickle.

Conclusion

Aerated concrete is a unique reliable and very practical material. It makes quite warm and high-quality houses. But in order for them to please their owners for a long time, they must be insulated.

In the photo and video in this article, additional material has been selected on the topic of aerated concrete insulation. If you have any questions or want to talk about your experience with insulation, welcome to the comments, I will be glad.

Insulated house, finished with plastic panels.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Considering the fact that gas and electricity prices are constantly rising, the issue of home insulation is becoming very relevant. And this is quite understandable.

After all, if the walls in the house are properly insulated, then:

Simply put, with an insulated facade, you will really heat the house, not the street. However, the most important thing here is not just to insulate the walls, but to be able to do it right!

And it is especially important to properly insulate the walls of aerated concrete from the outside - after all, this material has certain characteristics and unique features that are very different from the properties standard walls from brick. Therefore, keep in mind that not every insulation will effectively "work" on the facade of aerated concrete.

An example of a gas block wall

In this article, we will look at which technologies are suitable for such walls and which are not. Then we will choose the most optimal and most suitable option, which we will try to implement step by step with our own hands.

But first, it’s probably worth getting acquainted with the features of aerated concrete walls in order to better understand why this or that technology can be used, and why, on the contrary, it can’t.

So, short review material and walls made of it.

Features of aerated concrete walls

Aerated concrete blocks consist of:

• cement,
• sand,
• water,
• as well as limestone.

However, the blocks are not just cast in molds, but are made using a special technology. Due to the contact of blowing agents (for example, aluminum powder) with water, pores and cells are formed in the composition of the initial mixture during solidification.

After the block has hardened, it is processed in an autoclave - due to the “quenching” with steam, the product acquires very good rigidity. Well, the presence of pores gives the material good thermal insulation qualities.

Processing a gas block with a hacksaw

Here a reasonable question arises: why, then, insulate the walls of aerated concrete if they are already warm enough?

In fact, everything is very simple.

Gas block walls can not be insulated if you live in fairly warm, southern regions. In this case, such walls need at least finishing with plaster, as the material is afraid of moisture.

Please note that special plaster must be used - vapor-permeable, since aerated concrete has a good level of vapor exchange, which means that moisture and fumes from inside the house will instantly go outside. And if there is ordinary plaster on the facade, then condensation will accumulate between it and the plane of the wall, due to which the plaster itself will fall off, and the thermal insulation qualities of the wall will decrease.

Vapor-permeable facade plaster

But if in your area it is the most common, with cold winters, then it is still very desirable to insulate the walls, since it will be easier for the boiler to warm up the house, and in which case, the room will not cool down so quickly. And of course, you need to insulate the walls if you want to minimize heating costs.

Now let's figure out how to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside - more precisely, what is the best way to do it.

Insulation options: what material and technology is better to use

It should be noted that the following are enough general recommendations. That is, in your particular case, there may be some nuance due to which this or that “forbidden” technology will still have to be applied.

For example, as will be discussed below, it is not recommended to sheathe walls of aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene, since expanded polystyrene sheets practically do not allow steam to pass through. However, this recommendation is relevant for projects in which the house is insulated very high quality and for a very long time.

If your budget is limited and you need to insulate an extension “for a couple of years”, which will then be overhauled or repaired, then it makes no sense to do expensive insulation - polystyrene foam is quite suitable. Because its price is low, and it is the fastest way to insulate it (for more details, see the article Insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam: the correct sequence of work and important nuances).

Styrofoam

Therefore, take into account all the features of the situation, and after that make a decision on the purchase of a particular material.

So, let's start a review of insulation technologies.

Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene insulation

In principle, everything is more or less clear here.

As mentioned above, it is good to insulate walls made of aerated concrete from the outside with foam plastic or expanded polystyrene as a temporary or “economy” option. Mainly due to poor vapor permeability of materials.

In addition, this technology is great in cases where you need to quickly make the insulation of the facade with your own hands, but the master does not have the experience and necessary skills. The thing is that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are lightweight, easy to cut and attach to the wall, and in principle, you don’t need a lot of experience and expensive tools.

It is also convenient to produce insulation with polystyrene foam plastic windows, or rather slopes near them. To do this, strips of the desired size are cut from the sheet and simply glued to the slopes, and then puttied and painted.

Styrofoam slopes

Consider the following technology.

Warming with mineral wool: "wet" method or hinged ventilated facade

Mineral wool has one property suitable for aerated concrete - it passes steam well through its structure. This means that it is not only possible, but rather necessary, to insulate mineral wool walls and aerated concrete facades using a simple technology.

However, there are, of course, important nuances.

Since mineral wool, like aerated concrete, is afraid of moisture, it must be protected from above with something. In most cases, either plaster or siding is used.

It turns out that the last option seems to be good - since the facade turns out to be ventilated, but there are "pitfalls" here. The fact is that aerated concrete is not such a durable material as, for example, brick, which means that the hinged facade will not hold on any wall.

Therefore, if the walls are aerated concrete, it is better to use vapor-permeable plaster to decorate the walls and protect the mineral wool.

Scheme of facade insulation with mineral wool

Please also note that not all mineral wool is suitable for insulating external walls. For example, the same "Ursoy" is good for warming the loggia from the inside, internal partitions and walls, but this wool is not suitable for finishing the facade because of the very soft structure.

For outdoor work, you need to use a denser and harder cotton wool (for example, "Rockwool").

Mineral wool «Rockwool»

Of the minuses of mineral wool insulation, one can, perhaps, single out the fact that the price of the material is not the lowest.

But in the end you will get a really effective and high-quality result - the house will be:

• warm up well and quickly;
• cool down slowly
• and at the same time there will be no condensation on the plane of the walls from the outside.

And briefly get acquainted with the less popular, but, nevertheless, used and even effective ways wall insulation made of aerated concrete.

Other insulation options

It is possible to single out such ways of insulating the facade of aerated concrete blocks:

• With the help of a layer between aerated concrete and an additional brick wall. This is actually done quite often - aerated concrete, in fact, is a draft wall, on top of which a decorative brick wall is built. It turns out, and you don’t need to putty anything, and paint. However, this option is, of course, quite expensive. And the layer itself can be empty (air) or contain some kind of filler (for example, sawdust).

An example of an air gap between walls

• Using liquid polyurethane foam. This PPU insulation technology is very simple, but not cheap. A beam is mounted to the walls (vertically) at a distance of about half a meter from each other, and the entire space between it is filled with polyurethane foam.

This material resembles mounting foam, it is sticky, due to which it adheres well to the gas block, and then expands and hardens. After hardening, the excess is cut off, and the plane is puttied or painted.

The advantage here is that the frozen polyurethane foam becomes, as it were, a monolithic continuation of the main wall, without any air gaps between them, and due to this there is no condensate. On the downside, it's quite expensive.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Please note that it is impossible to insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside with polyurethane foam if the cost of such a service is suspiciously low. As a rule, this happens only when the material is of poor quality or even toxic. Remember - really good stuff just can't be cheap!

So, it turns out that the most inexpensive, efficient and optimal technology in all respects is the insulation of aerated concrete facade with mineral wool, followed by puttying the surface.

Let's take a quick look at how this kind of work is usually done.

Insulation of the facade with mineral wool and finishing with vapor-permeable plaster

It is worth noting that, in fact, the process of insulating a house with aerated concrete walls must begin even before the material is purchased or even selected.

In particular, we are talking about the fact that in such walls the main bridge for heat leakage to the outside is the seams. The thicker they are, the worse. That is why you should take care of this moment in advance and try to make the seams as thin and accurate as possible.

Do not save on this and use not a standard cement-sand mortar for masonry, but a special glue. Only with the use of this glue can you get truly high-quality seams.

An example of well-made seams

So, the sequence of work on the insulation of the facade with mineral wool "wet" will be something like this:

Such is the instruction.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, if you try and take into account all the nuances, you can insulate the house quite well.

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Page 2

Revealing the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closeness.

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete - it is necessary and necessary

Note! In principle, this is a natural material, which is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special blowing agents.

Most often, their role is played by aluminum powder.

Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding is carried out, where the material begins to expand under the influence of chemical reaction during which gas formation occurs.
3. After pre-drying, aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then the finished product must be dried. There are two ways: autoclave and non-autoclave.

warming cake

Attention! In the case of using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Pay attention to one very important point that concerns the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, then remember that you should not build multi-story buildings from them.

Now let's move on to the very process of insulating an aerated concrete house from the outside and from the inside.

Do I need to insulate

Partially, we answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate the house from aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they "breathe" very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand, and a minus.

When asked whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete, we answer “yes”

Attention! Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be arranged in such a way that the vapor permeability index of the material decreases from the outer surface of the wall to the inner one. That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in this way.

If everything works out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the walls both from the outside and from the inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze a few basic thermal insulation materials, which are currently most commonly used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Heaters

The modern building materials market today is ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Specialists today prefer such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

Expanded polystyrene - photo material

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (aka polystyrene) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. In addition, it does not have high thermal insulation performance. Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation with high thermal insulation performance.

• Polyurethane foam is a unique material. Firstly, it is a building mixture that is applied to the walls under pressure. Secondly, getting on the surface, it is instantly bonded to it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such a heater will last for several decades.

Application of polyurethane foam

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is board material, which is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But polyurethane foam can not be applied to the treated surfaces on its own.

It requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. So this way insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I wanted to say a little about mineral wool. It is one of the most efficient thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the ability to draw in moist air vapor, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already talked about this above).

Mineral mats

So, what kind of insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, you know, now you can proceed to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls from aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, aerated concrete walls are insulated from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember! Humidity and condensation are highly dependent on the dew point. While thermal insulation work has not been carried out, this point is on the surface of the wall. As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.

A small mistake or incorrect work can lead to the formation of condensate on the heaters, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage #1

This is the internal insulation of walls made of aerated concrete.

I would like to note that many of us independently carried out the insulation of a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

Is it necessary to insulate walls made of aerated concrete from the inside - plastering technology

• In principle, aerated concrete blocks are a very flat and smooth surface, which does not make sense to process to an ideal state. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, tubercles are removed with sandpaper or a sharp spatula.
• After that, the entire surface must be primed to create high wall adhesion. Please note that in some areas of the house, the walls will be adversely affected by moisture. So such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds without fail. And when it all dries up (usually it takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. In this case, it is not necessary to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last is the finish. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete. If drywall is used as a finish, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage #2

This is the insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here, because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today began to offer plaster solutions that are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and besides, they never crack.

Fastening the insulation with mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws

Attention! There is one very important point. If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-tight from the outside, then the likelihood that there will be high humidity inside the house is very high.

Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based bonding mortar or special mushroom-shaped self-tapping screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using metal products that will begin to rust after a while.

And the last is the finish. What to choose?

In principle, there are many materials, it is better to note that you do not have to choose.

• Vapor proof paints;
• Solutions based on polymers;
• Solutions based on foamed plastics;
• Foam glass.

And one moment. It is mandatory to leave a ventilation gap between the insulation and the finish. For example, if it is brickwork, then it is necessary to build ventilation holes that are installed near the basement and under the cornice overhang (see also the article Insulation of brick walls from the outside with your own hands).

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all the elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We are talking about the insulation of plastic windows, entrance doors, plinth, roof and so on.

Is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with foam - it is possible with further finishing

Conclusion on the topic

In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information given" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen">

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instruction on how to properly insulate an aerated concrete house with expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) is not so complicated. Of course, knowing the nuances of this process will ensure simplicity and reliability, but in any case, everyone can handle such work without problems.

In the presented video in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

pro-upplenie.ru

Insulation of a house from aerated concrete outside: walls, reviews

Trying to build a house from modern building materials with insulation frame house mineral wool, a person naturally strives to save on thermal insulation. Indeed, in theory, the thermal insulation will be carried out by the materials themselves.

For example, the construction of aerated concrete material is now very common. Aerated concrete is considered a porous and fairly durable material from which low-rise houses can be built.

House made of aerated concrete blocks, waiting for insulation

Many people think that insulation is not required for a house made of aerated concrete. But it's not. Moreover, reviews from users of such houses, on the contrary, confirm the fact that aerated concrete walls need insulation. It is about the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete that we will now talk about.

1 Features and purpose

To begin with, let's figure out what this aerated concrete is, and why it is so popular when sheathing a wooden house from the inside. Aerated concrete was invented not so long ago, if you look at more ancient materials such as bricks. However, in our area it has been actively used in construction for decades.

Aerated concrete is produced from a binder, fillers, additives from industrial waste and special chemicals.

Powder and aluminum powder are used as chemical additives. They are foam sample converters.

That is, when in contact with water, carbon dioxide begins to be released from a powder or powder. At the same time, the binders work to the full, so the block filled with gas becomes cellular and freezes in the same state.

The result is the same aerated concrete. It is relatively light, but at the same time quite durable material. From it you can assemble houses that have a height of up to 10 meters.

As a rule, houses up to 3 floors in height are assembled from aerated concrete without any restrictions. Everything above is equipped with reinforcing belts. It is impossible to build high-rise houses from aerated concrete. Also, this material is great for arranging baths, small buildings, etc.

The nuance of aerated concrete, as well as insulation for siding for a brick house, is precisely that because of its porosity, it really needs to be insulated. The material passes steam, air too easily and gains ambient temperature. If you do not insulate the walls of the house from the inside or outside, then you may encounter quite serious problems.

Scheme of a mineral wool insulation cake

Fortunately, this can be done without any problems, but you have to be quite careful. Aerated concrete is not a standard brick or ordinary concrete. It has its own nuances, and when insulating a house, bath or any other building, it is important to take them into account.

Especially seriously pay attention to the decoration of the bath. The bath is characterized by excessive release of steam, and the vapor permeability of aerated concrete, as mentioned above, is at a fairly high level.

If you organize the insulation of the walls incorrectly, you can achieve unpleasant results. So, the walls of the bath will begin to accumulate moisture, or vice versa, give it away too quickly. In any case, this will lead to rather negative results, which can be solved only with the help of drastic measures.

Therefore, for the thermal insulation of aerated concrete baths, as well as for any other buildings of this type, you need to apply all the knowledge you have. to the menu

2 The choice of material for insulation

Do-it-yourself insulation for aerated concrete for warming the veranda also plays a huge role. You can use different models of insulation, but not all of them are well suited for certain tasks.

So, the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete from the outside and from the inside is most often performed:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Foamed heaters such as penoizol or polyurethane foam.

It is most convenient to insulate houses made of aerated concrete with mineral wool. It has a relatively low weight, a high level of vapor permeability, and does not burn in fire. Rodents will not start in it either, but for a house made of aerated concrete this is a big plus.

It is better not to insulate a gas concrete bath with simple mineral wool, as it reacts poorly to contact with moisture.

But with mineral wool from well-known manufacturers, the insulation of baths and other similar buildings, albeit with apprehension, can be carried out. And all because branded mineral wool insulation have much higher quality.

Mineral wool is great for insulating aerated concrete

They tend to be hydrophobic like insulation. country houses and do not absorb moisture at all. The only serious drawback of mineral wool is its price.

Not everyone can afford to take enough insulation to completely finish two-storey house outside or inside.

Expanded polystyrene, if you look without asking the price, it turns out much better than mineral wool. According to its characteristics, expanded polystyrene is almost in no way inferior to it, and its price is much lower.

But it is worth taking a closer look and taking into account the special aerated concrete house, as the situation will immediately change. The main problem with polystyrene is its poor vapor permeability. The use of such materials will shift the dew point inside the wall, causing the blocks to slowly collapse.

You can mitigate these unpleasant consequences by using a vapor barrier film or something similar, but you are unlikely to be able to completely get rid of the problem. Expanded polystyrene can also become a home for rodents. They eat it with amazing speed.

As you can see, it is possible to use foam plastic to insulate a brick house from the outside, but with great care. Sometimes you can combine foam and mineral wool. For example, foam parts of the house where there is minimal steam release. But rooms with a large selection such as a kitchen or bathroom should be insulated with mineral wool.

If you still cannot afford to work with mineral heaters, then you have enough foam trim. It's still better than being cold in winter. Yes, and working with foam is very convenient. Just use it better from the inside, and do it wisely.

Polyurethane foam is also well suited for wall insulation. It is a foamy material that can be sprayed with special tools. It perfectly insulates the surface of the walls, moderately passes steam and is not afraid of moisture.

Application of polyurethane foam on the walls of a house made of aerated concrete

The only problem is its price. Polyurethane foam is very expensive. Moreover, both the material itself and its application will be expensive. That is why these solutions are practically not used in civil individual construction. to the menu

2.1 Wall insulation technology

As you yourself understand, it is possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete both from the inside and outside.

Internal wall insulation is easier to perform. Such work is always easier to do, because you do not have to assemble large structures, take care of additional waterproofing and do a bunch of additional things.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration can be done by any man who has ever encountered construction work.

Of course, the first couple of hours will be spent on stabilization and stuffing your hands, but then the work will go like clockwork. And the area inside is smaller than outside. This means that the possibility of making a mistake is reduced.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is best done using wet technology. That is, use dowels and a variety of fasteners to a minimum. Aerated concrete does not like such things very much, as does the insulation of a wooden house outside with foam plastic.

If it is still necessary to resort to the use of dowels, then buy a special mount with a chemical base. It does not destroy the supporting structure of the block so much.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the wall, remove all unnecessary elements.
2. We prime the base.
3. We apply a solution to the insulation plates, glue them to the wall.
4. We cover the cracks with a solution, blow it with foam or glue it.
5. We apply a thin layer of plaster to the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then a mesh is also suitable.
6. We carry out finishing walls.

When finishing from the inside, it is advisable to use only the wet method and not overdo it with plaster.

Installation of foam boards for insulation of aerated concrete houses

Moreover, we fix the plaster with the help of a grid. This is a very important point. Without the use of a grid, cracks may develop over time on the wall. As a finish, you can choose any options you like.

Vapor barrier here is better not to use or put directly under the plaster. This essentially eliminates the advantages that the vapor permeability of the insulation and the aerated concrete itself gives.

The house will become a little stuffier and more time will have to be devoted to ventilation or installation reliable system ventilation. But if there is no other way out, then it is better to ventilate the room than to suffer from a shifted dew point and all the consequences that will appear in the end.

External wall insulation is a much more complex process. Here it is better to involve specialists who have special equipment. You can work with both foam and mineral wool. However, using mineral wool, as noted above, will be more useful.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the surface.
2. We mount ebbs, limiting elements, basement profiles, etc.
3. We prime and clean the base. We remove all unnecessary elements, calculate the insulation scheme.
4. We lay the insulation boards in a certain order. You can lay it on a layer of glue for insulation.
5. Additionally, we use special chemical dowels to fix the plates. Dowels are required for mineral wool. But they will not be superfluous if ordinary polystyrene foam is used.
6. We lay the waterproofing film.
7. We plaster the surface.
8. We apply the finish on the surface of the facade.

2.2 Reviews about the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete

An example of using fasteners for aerated concrete

It remains only to evaluate the reviews on the use of heaters for walls made of aerated concrete. Here are a few of them.

Dmitry, 43 years old, Moscow:

In the house built from aerated concrete, the question of the presence of a heater sharply arose. To my surprise, the walls in it freeze quite quickly. It was possible to do the warming in a matter of days.

We only had to work with polystyrene, as we were constrained in funds and time. However, I do not observe any discomfort from this. The house is warm and cozy, dampness from the walls or problems with vapor permeability were not found.

Anatoly, 29 years old, Minsk:

If you are going to insulate in a house made of aerated concrete, then you will not find better mineral wool insulation. If you use foam plastic, consider leveling all the advantages of aerated concrete that it has.

I myself worked with mineral wool. I had to spend money, but it's worth it.

Ivan, 61 years old, Berdyansk:

He was engaged in finishing the walls of aerated concrete outside. In the work I used mineral wool. It was possible to cope quickly, although there was not much experience. After the work was completed, the temperature in the house immediately rose by a couple of degrees.

2.3 Insulation of the walls of the house from aerated concrete (video)

uteplimvse.ru

Exterior insulation of aerated concrete house: installation technology

The bulk of construction experts argue that insulating a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool or some other insulation is much more expedient than holding a similar event inside the house. Firstly, there is no loss of usable space; secondly, the dew point shifts far outside the house; thirdly, the implementation of this process is possible without mounting the crate (second wall). Like it or not, we will study in this material, but first we recall the characteristics of porous masonry material.

What is aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete is a modern building material, quite popular with consumers, but requires careful insulation. It belongs to the family of lightweight medium-cell concretes, and therefore its bulk density relative to other building materials is not too high. As for its working density, it ranges from 350-650 kg/m3.

Aerated concrete is produced by mixing the following components:

• sand;
• lime;
• cement;
• aluminum powder;
• water.

It is the addition of aluminum powder that leads to gas formation, which in turn is the cause of the appearance of cellular pores. The resulting mixture is cut to size using a special string. After that, the resulting gas blocks are subjected to high-temperature sintering in an industrial autoclave, where a pressure of 8-13 atmospheres is created. The presence of a gas generator in the future allows the stone structures to breathe, but nevertheless, the insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with mineral wool or other insulation is an integral part of its construction.

Popular heaters for houses made of aerated concrete blocks: mineral wool and polystyrene foam

Mineral wool

This material has good thermal insulation properties, but its installation requires the creation of a wooden crate on the wall of the house.

The process of insulating a house from aerated concrete outside with mineral wool consists of the following steps:

• Creation of a crate. In this case, a vertical crate of bars with dimensions of 50 * 50 mm is used. The distance between the bars is 60 cm. In general, these parameters depend on the size of the mineral wool slab, that is, the thickness of the bar corresponds to the thickness of the insulation, and the step between the bars corresponds to the width. Compliance with such proportions ensures a snug fit of mineral wool to the wall and eliminates the formation of gaps or cracks.
• Insulation lining. Insulation of an aerated concrete house from the outside should be accompanied by a dense filling of the space between the vertical bars of the crate. At the same time, airborne zones or non-insulated areas should not be allowed.

Important! To increase the effect of warming the house with mineral wool, you can create an additional layer of crate, only already horizontal. Its parameters will correspond to the previous layer and the horizontal bars will be attached directly to the vertical ones.

• Waterproofing installation. The waterproof membrane is attached to the battens with a stapler with an overlap of at least 15 cm. It is advisable to glue the seams with mounting tape.
• Facade decoration. Additional beams are mounted on top of the waterproofing layer, which will be the basis for creating the facade cladding. In addition, the thickness of these timbers will create a ventilated gap that will allow air to move freely under the cladding and thereby draw out moisture.

Styrofoam

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with the use of expanded polystyrene can be of several types. Expanded polystyrene itself as a material exists in several component versions:

• Styrofoam. This material is produced in the form of plates, 98% consisting of weightless impermeable granules. These granules are subjected to high-temperature sintering, during which they acquire thermal insulation qualities that bring the insulation of the house from aerated concrete with foam plastic to new level. Further, the granules, with the use of glue, are compressed under pressure and a pronounced foam structure is formed.

• Penoplex. It is also called extruded foam, since the foamed mass of polystyrene is passed through the extruder head. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with foam plastic gives a greater effect, since this type of expanded polystyrene surpasses foam plastic in all respects, and it also does not require the creation of an additional layer of waterproofing.

The technology of warming the house outside

As soon as the decision was made to insulate the house from aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, you can begin to implement such an event. But first, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic technological methods that will greatly facilitate the walls with polystyrene foam. First you need to decide on the time of year, of course, summer will be the most suitable - minimum humidity and speed of work.

Note! If the wall has high humidity, be sure to let it dry. To speed up this process, you can heat the room from the inside with a heat gun. At the same time, the walls will heat up and will quickly get rid of moisture.

Wall preparation

The wall should be as smooth, clean and safe as possible, that is, it must be treated with a special antiseptic solution that will prevent the appearance of fungi. After the antiseptic solution has been absorbed and dried, the wall must be covered with several layers of primer, this will increase the adhesion of the wall to the polystyrene foam. When building a house from aerated concrete blocks, it is assumed that the wall is even and has no defects, but if there are flaws, then it is advisable to eliminate them using cement mortar. Places of "repair" are also covered with a layer of primer.

Installation work

To insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with foam plastic, it is necessary to apply an adhesive solution to the insulation plate in a continuous uniform layer. This will save the wall from airy zones and thereby protect it from the appearance of condensate. For more durable fastening of expanded polystyrene to an aerated concrete wall, you can use special plastic dowels with large caps. A drill of the appropriate diameter is “loaded” into the puncher and a hole is made through the insulation in the wall. After that, a new settler fungus is inserted into it, into which a plastic dowel is driven in, while the new settler expands in the wall and thereby is fixed.

When the insulation is fastened, it's time to start arranging the facade cladding. To do this, a special reinforced mesh is attached over the insulation, which increases the adhesion coefficient of the finishing layer with the heat insulator layer.

Fashionable polyurethane foam

Recently, such a heater as polyurethane foam has become widespread. It combines the properties of all the above materials, and among other things, it has a number of its own advantages. So, polyurethane foam:

• fireproof;
• resistant to mold;
• moisture and steam impermeable;
• inedible for rodents;
• resistant to large temperature changes.

Most often, polyurethane foam insulates the walls from the inside, but this procedure is also possible from the outside. To do this, you need to create a crate on the house, so that in the future it would be possible to perform external insulation of the house from aerated concrete for siding. To begin with, the beams (of any size) are attached to the wall. The step between the beams should be chosen so that the siding fastening is of high quality and reliable. Therefore, the most acceptable step is considered to be 50 cm.

Note! For the installation of siding, instead of a wooden crate, a profile (metal) is often used. It is more durable and reliable. But if it is not possible to use metal profiles, then wooden beams it is desirable to open with an anti-corrosion solution, which will increase their service life.

To insulate walls with polyurethane foam, a special sprayer is required, since this material is sold on the market in liquid form. After being applied to the surface, the insulator reacts with oxygen, foams and thus fills all the free space of the crate. The advantage of polyurethane foam is the small thickness of the insulating layer, which saves on the thickness of the timber. When the polyurethane foam has dried, you can proceed to the external insulation of the house from aerated concrete for siding, this process consists of the following steps:

• installation of the starting bar;
• fastening of vertical bars;
• type-setting fastening of siding panels (from bottom to top);
• hiding seams with butt fittings;
• installation of finishing strips.

Comparative characteristics of heat insulators

To compare these heaters, you must use a special table, which will indicate the main operational parameters of each of the materials. Basically, they are similar to each other, but there are still differences, so consider the following table:

The table shows that the best heat insulator is polyurethane foam, but at the same time, the requirement for special equipment and a fairly high cost make it inaccessible to many residents of private houses. It is very important to pay attention to the quality of the material used, and you should not use cheaper analogues. There is an unwritten rule among builders: “If the price of any building material is lower than its average statistical indicator on the market, then the material does not have one of the characteristic qualities.” Therefore, before buying a heat insulator for external wall insulation, you need to make sure that it meets all international quality and safety standards. This can only be evidenced by the appropriate certificate, if there is none, then the product is not credible. In conclusion, we offer a thematic video on the application of PPU.

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How and how to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside

When I first thought about building a house out of aerated concrete, I immediately began to fantasize about the future. interior design. But a familiar master stopped me, warning me that I need to think about the insulation of the house from aerated concrete. The material itself has both advantages and disadvantages, so I began to take a closer look at thermal insulation materials that can be used specifically for aerated concrete structures.

We insulate the walls of the aerated concrete house from the outside

Building Properties

We warm the house from aerated concrete with our own hands

The use of aerated concrete is very much in demand, especially in recent times. With its help, houses are built in the shortest possible time, and the material has many advantages. The most important thing is the size of the blocks - it is thanks to this that the construction process is accelerated. In addition, aerated concrete is a good sound insulator and, although the manufacturer notes high thermal insulation rates, it is still better to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside.

What to make building material blocks use materials such as:

• Sand
• Limestone
• Cement

However, in addition to this, special components are added to the composition that provoke the formation of pores. It is thanks to the resulting voids that good thermal insulation performance is noted. But not in all regions of these indicators is enough and often the question is raised about the insulation of a house from aerated concrete blocks. And since insulation from the outside is more beneficial, I began to choose suitable materials for thermal insulation.

Important! Conducting insulation from the outside is due to the fact that due to this, the valuable area of ​​\u200b\u200bliving rooms inside the house does not decrease. And we all know how valuable these are to us. square meters.

Use of Styrofoam

Styrofoam for insulation of aerated concrete houses

Since polystyrene is quite in demand for insulating the walls of various buildings, I decided to consider this option as well. Being affordable and cheap, foam plastic is still in great demand, despite the large list of modern thermal insulation materials. Polyfoam has certain advantages:

1. Light weight and large size
2. Low cost
3. Ease of do-it-yourself work

But despite its advantages, the material also has disadvantages. Firstly, he is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and therefore, under its influence, begins to crumble and lose its performance characteristics. Secondly, mice gnaw at it. After carrying out thermal insulation work with foam plastic, it is necessary to carry out subsequent facade cladding. Usually, wet technology is used for this.

Popular thermal insulation materials

Self-insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Mineral wool is quite in demand for use outside the house, however, for its arrangement, a crate is required. Let's look at the steps by which you can carry out the insulation with your own hands:

• First of all, you need to make a crate. It must be vertical and for its manufacture you will need bars of 5 * 5 cm in size. The standard distance between the bars should be 60 cm, however, these parameters are individual, as they are selected according to the dimensions of the insulation used. The ideal would be to make the distance a couple of centimeters less than the width of the plates. Thus, the fit will be as tight and high-quality as possible.
• Laying material - the fit of the insulation must be tight and without gaps. Only with proper installation, thermal insulation will be of the highest quality.
• Waterproofing must be fixed to the battens of the crate. Along with this, the sheets must overlap, which is at least 15 cm. All seams are glued with mounting tape
• On top of the laid waterproofing, the crate should be re-arranged, on which the installation of facing materials will subsequently be carried out.

Thus, it turns out to kill two birds with one stone: not only to insulate the walls from the outside, but also beautifully decorate the facade, make it more attractive, and the walls more protected from negative atmospheric effects.

To compare the popular materials with which the house is insulated from aerated concrete blocks, I have compiled a small table of technical characteristics:

Having dealt with the table, it becomes clear that of all the above materials it is best to use polyurethane foam. However, due to the complexity of the work, this option is not possible for all residents of private houses.

Important! When insulating with mineral wool, a special glue is used. With its help, the material is securely fixed on the surface of the wall of the house made of aerated concrete. When diluting the adhesive solution, strictly follow the instructions from the manufacturer.

Gas silicate blocks and their insulation

How to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside?

The use of gas silicate blocks is possible for the construction of low-rise buildings, its thermal insulation properties are quite large. However, cold bridges and negative manifestations, which will undoubtedly appear after absorption of moisture by the material. Insulation of a house from gas silicate blocks can be done both with the help of mineral wool and non-polystyrene. It is also possible to use thermal panels, which are manufactured with ready-made exterior trim. Thermopanels have a number of advantages:

1. Eco-friendly
2. durable
3. Easy
4. Resistant to mechanical stress
5. Self-assembly possible

Many experts assure that it is better not to insulate a house made of gas silicate with such panels. However, in practice, it has long been found out that the ventilation holes on the plinth and under the roof canopy allow air to circulate freely. The installation of such material occurs with the help of a crate, but in this case it is made using metal profiles.

Installation of panels is quite simple and the technology is the same as with siding panels. Don't forget to set the starting bar. The fixing of the material occurs with the help of self-tapping screws.

Almost every home needs additional insulation, which can occur both inside the house and outside. However, the quality of the work and the use of good materials are important. With proper surface preparation and knowledge of the technologies of all processes, the thermal insulation of an aerated concrete house will pass as quickly as possible and even the most Cold winter won't take you by surprise.

Residential buildings from require hydro- and thermal insulation, because. the material is unstable to moisture, vapor-permeable, with many pores. Warming is carried out using mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam plastic, vermiculite.

Material finishing is carried out inside and outside the building. The work uses fastenings with the help of hinged facades, the “wet facade” technique, fixation on hooks.

Why is it necessary to insulate such houses?

The construction of buildings from gas silicate blocks requires high skill from builders. The materials are distinguished by clear geometric shapes and are fixed on a special adhesive base. The structures do not require the construction of a reinforced foundation, however, it is necessary to reliably putty the walls and increase their heat-shielding and moisture-resistant characteristics.

A few words about the nature of the material

Gas silicate is a lightweight porous concrete. In the manufacture of the material, a foaming agent is included in the cement-lime mortar (aluminum powder is suitable as a component).

In the process, hydrogen begins to be released in the concrete composition, hollow cells are formed. Then, to increase the mechanical strength of the material at the final stage of preparation, the blocks are subjected to heat treatment in autoclaves under high pressure. The raw material acquires strength and low heat-conducting characteristics.

Why insulate such structures?

When deciding whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the building material. The pores in the blocks enhance thermal insulation, but they are vapor-permeable and saturated with moisture. Gas silicate wall panels need to be protected with insulating compounds.

The thickness of the blocks (standard is 300-500 mm) is selected in accordance with the average temperature in the region. For the central part of Russia and the Moscow region, the thickness of the gas silicate walls must be at least 70 cm without seals and insulation compounds. Standard Thickness thermal insulation is 10 cm, with a partition less than 300-400 mm, a heater for aerated concrete is needed more massive.

Material selection

When choosing gas blocks, it must be taken into account that the material is produced at several levels of density (from 350 units), the step is 50-600 units. At high rate it is the most durable, so it can be laid in a narrow layer inside the house and outside the building. A layer of porous materials can be replaced with 50 mm thick plates.

The materials must be of high quality, certified, selected for the appropriate level of humidity in the area and the degree of load on the wall of the house.

The selection takes into account the technical parameters of the composition. Porous wall panels allow moisture and oxygen to pass through, so the insulating composition should not interfere with the diffusion process. The vapor permeability of the composition must exceed the parameter of the building wall blocks.

Types of materials for insulation

Insulation of an aerated concrete house is carried out by the following types of insulation compositions:

• mineral wool;
• penoplex;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane foam;
• vermiculite, etc.

Materials differ in technical characteristics (mass, density, composition), installation technique and cost.

Styrofoam

Styrofoam has light weight, easy to prepare and install. On the inside, the blocks consist of voids filled with gas bubbles, which are formed during the manufacture of the composition. Polyfoam is suitable for the construction of residential and industrial buildings. The advantage of the material is its low cost, the possibility of independent work.

Styrofoam insulation is carried out subject to multi-layer installation. Internal walls are finished with compositions with high thermal conductivity and high heat capacity. Styrofoam does not differ in the ability to pass steam, is suitable for interior work and is not used for external insulation.

In southern regions with dry air, styrofoam can be used to insulate houses after preparing wall panels. It will be necessary to equip a ventilation system to prevent condensation on the walls. When designing a building, it is necessary to take into account the large thickness of the foam blocks. The internal operational area of ​​the building finished with expanded polystyrene will be reduced.

The advantage of finishing material:

• aesthetics;
• high degree of heat preservation in the room;
• small load on wall panels and foundation;
• high sound insulation;
• resistance to biological organisms (mold, fungus);
• preventing temperature fluctuations in the room.

Penoplex

Insulation of aerated concrete walls can be performed using foam. Extruded polystyrene foam is manufactured at elevated temperature and high pressure. It is necessary to take into account the high cost of the material.

The advantages of the composition:

• small thickness;
• high vapor barrier characteristics;
• the incombustibility of the composition helps to prevent the development of a fire.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs or sold in rolls. The raw material is fire resistant, has vapor-permeable properties, high noise insulation characteristics, is made from environmentally friendly raw materials and is safe to use.

The period of operation of the composition is high, cotton wool is resistant to fungus and mold. When fixing, it is required to provide waterproofing, because. the composition passes moisture and may form condensate. When finishing the building outside with mineral wool, it is forbidden to use acrylic plaster, which will increase the formation of condensate.

According to GOST standards, 3 types of compositions are classified as mineral wool:

• glass fiber;
• slag fibers;
• stone wool.

The materials differ in structure (thickness and length of the fibers), load resistance, thermal conductivity and moisture resistance parameters, and fire resistance.

Glass wool consists of long fibers up to 15-50 mm thick 5-15 microns. The material is elastic, durable, but requires compliance with safety standards during work and the use of protective clothing (gloves, goggles, respirator). The thermal conductivity index of the material is 0.03-0.052 W/(mK). The permitted heating temperature is limited to +450°C. The material has an average level of hygroscopicity.

Slag wool is made from the remains of blast-furnace production (slag). Its fibers in length reach 16 mm, the thickness is 4-12 microns. The material has residual acidity and can adversely affect the metal at high humidity in the room.

Slag wool is characterized by good moisture absorption, therefore it is used for interior work and is not suitable for decorating facade structures, water supply systems of a building. The material is fragile. The heating temperature is limited to +300°C, the thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.46 to 0.48 W/(mK).

Stone wool is similar in technical characteristics to slag wool, but it is not brittle and does not damage surfaces. Cotton wool is easy to use, does not require the use of complex protection during repairs. Mineral raw materials from mining rocks have a permitted heating index up to +600°C. The thermal conductivity of the composition reaches 0.077-0.12 W/(mK). Index of hygroscopicity of the composition of the middle level.

polyurethane foam

You can insulate a house made of aerated concrete with polyurethane foam. The composition is applied to the panels using special equipment for spraying under high pressure. It is possible to cover an uneven surface with polyurethane foam, irregularities and cracks are poured with the composition, after which an even seamless coating is formed.

Spraying of raw materials is possible in hard-to-reach places. The advantage of polyurethane foam is its good adhesion to the surface, there is no need to erect a frame for facade insulation.

When choosing polyurethane foam as thermal insulation, it is required to select materials for the interior decoration of the building that prevent the penetration of steam. Vinyl wallpaper materials, alkyd dyes, cement crumb plaster, ceramic tiles, etc. are optimal as a composition for decorating.

Simple home insulation technologies

When deciding how to insulate a house from aerated concrete, the optimal technologies are selected:

• "wet facade";
• applying soil to the panels;
• cotton facade;
• lining with foam;
• fastening with dowels, etc.

Simple and cheap

Internal and external insulation is carried out using simple technologies. The plates are fixed on the wall panels with the help of an adhesive base, then the surface is formed with plaster, foam plastic or dense blocks of mineral wool.

Easy to design wadded facade. It is required to prepare wall panels, clean and prime with several layers of the surface. For gas blocks D400, 4 layers will be required, for blocks D500 and D600 - 3 layers of plaster. For solid walls - 1-2 primer coats. The insulation is laid out after the primer layers have dried.

For horizontal fastening of insulating materials, an L-shaped profile is used. Materials differ in width and are selected for different slab insulation compositions. The structure is fixed horizontally with anchors in 250-300 mm increments.

When deciding whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete with mineral wool using an adhesive base, it is necessary to take into account the climate of the area. In the central part of Russia, in areas with moderate humidity, stone or glass wool can be fixed with special glue.

To work, you need a notched trowel. When fixing the material on a light composition, it is applied in a dense even layer. Applying it to several sections of the wall is used for buildings made of concrete, brick.

It is allowed to fix materials with the help of umbrella-type dowels. First, the insulating wool is fixed on the dowels, then the adhesive base is applied with a layer, the sickle is fixed and the glue is applied again. After the compositions have dried, the surface is finished with decorative plaster.

Capital ventilated insulation

When deciding whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete with capital ventilation systems, it is recommended to take into account labor costs and a long period of work. The method allows not only finishing facades with decorative plaster, but also using siding. Ventilated facade design is carried out on aerated concrete blocks with high strength and with a stable foundation.

When choosing anchors for installation work, it is necessary to take into account the specifics of porous materials. To fix the compositions, reinforced fasteners of complex configuration are required. Plastic screws are not recommended. Anchors should be easily fixed in the hole and, when screwed, expand or release hooks.

Before fixing the siding, it is necessary to prime the wall panels. Then fix the supporting bars with anchors in increments of no more than 0.5 m.

After fixing the beams, it is required to apply an adhesive base to the plates of the insulating composition and fix them on the wall panels between the beams. Then fix the windscreen and slats, which will become the basis for the front trim and provide gaps for the ventilation system. The facing material is fixed on top.

Internal finishing of aerated concrete

When deciding whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete inside the building, it is required to take into account design features houses and weather conditions of the area. It is optimal to use plaster and a small thickness of insulation. When decorating rooms with a high level of humidity (kitchens, bathrooms), plaster is first applied with a layer of up to 5-7 mm, then ceramic tiles are laid on top.

Methods for attaching insulation to the wall

When deciding how to insulate facades, it is necessary to take into account the technology of fixing materials.

Methods in demand:

• hinged facade;
• wet facade;
• wet facade with reinforcement.

Hinged frame structures are made of metal alloys or wood. The warming composition is laid out in the free cells of the frame, then a layer of decorative material is applied and fixed on top.

To perform a finish of the "wet facade" type, it is required to grind the surfaces of the walls. The heat-insulating composition is then fixed on the adhesive base and additionally fixed with dowels. At the final stage, it is required to plaster a layer of insulation.

A reinforced wet façade is required for structural solutions with high strength requirements. For finishing cladding, in this case, natural stone or brick blocks are used, the insulating composition is fixed on hooks. The surface is then reinforced with a metal mesh and plastered over. After the plaster has dried, the lining is performed.