Change house with their own hands. Step by step instructions

15.06.2019

Having bought a plot, land, you think about the fact that you need to live somewhere while building a house. Such a temporary home in the country or garden plot is a change house. A small insulated structure, usually 3x6 or so in size. There are a lot of offers on the market: both wood and metal. But their quality is more than doubtful, the cheapest materials are used in construction. This is easy to verify by calculating the costs that you will incur if you decide to make a change house with your own hands. With the same dimensions, it’s cheaper for you, most likely, it won’t work, and if there is savings, then it’s small. You will consider normal materials, not the cheapest ones. But in terms of quality and durability, home-made change houses are many times superior to purchased ones.

Change house on the site is the first (or second after) structure that appears on the site

What and how are they built

Almost all change houses are built according to frame technology. As building materials for the frame, a wooden beam of at least 100 * 150 mm or profiled metal pipe 60*60*2mm.

For sheathing, the choice of materials is much wider. Use:

edged board;
sheet material -,;
profiled sheet;
siding.

In any case, the lining is done on both sides - outside and inside. The outer one can also be metal, but inside they often make either lining or stuff plywood or OSB.

Thermal insulation is laid between the two skins. Although the building is temporary, spring and autumn, and sometimes summer nights, can be very cold. Therefore, without insulation - in any way. Any heater is possible. Better - mineral wool, cheaper - polystyrene. Most best performance- extruded polystyrene foam, but the highest price too. Just when choosing a heater, keep in mind that the foam almost does not muffle the sounds, so that the especially nervous will not be able to sleep. Therefore, the best choice is mineral wool. What layer? If in mind, then in middle lane Russia, preferably 100 mm, but at least 50 mm.

Please note that the floor also needs to be insulated. Especially the floor. The bottom is very tight. Therefore, it should be double: first, a rough one, on top, across the board, they put logs, a heater between them, and then a finishing floor.

Layout and drawings

Despite the fact that the building is considered temporary, it often turns into a bathhouse or a guest house. Therefore, even in a change house there is such a thing as planning. Even temporary housing should be relatively comfortable.

Change house trailer

There are two main types of change houses: trailer and vest. In a trailer-type building, the entrance is on the side, there is no separation inside, in extreme cases they put a partition - 1.5-2 meters from the entrance. This room is used as a vestibule-dressing room and a warehouse for storing tools. This is the simplest possible option.

The drawings will contain graphic and numerical designations, their decoding is in the photo below.

vest

The most popular layout is the vest. This is when the entrance is in the middle. moreover, the middle is fenced off and used as a vestibule, pantry, etc. The purpose of the other two rooms may be different. Someone uses both as bedrooms, someone uses one as a kitchen.

Change house with toilet and shower

Not everyone agrees to lead a Spartan lifestyle even at a construction site or dacha, even temporarily. At least basic amenities are required. Although it's probably better to build them separately.

San block is on the edge - a wiser decision, especially if you make a separate entrance

with toilet

Having chosen a drawing, do not forget, when developing a frame for a change house, that racks must be placed at the junction of the walls. If doors are attached to the racks, they must be reinforced - double.

Foundation for a house

Since the structure is temporary and light, the foundations are usually posts or blocks. Mostly blocks. Preferably - concrete, standard. No - you can use any construction, but high density and not hollow.

They are placed on a prepared base. If the soils are normal, you can simply remove the sod and level the sites. For greater reliability, they dig a small pit under each block with a depth of about 20-25 cm. Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into it and rammed well. Blocks are placed on such a substrate.

Note! The top edge must be level (be in the same horizontal plane). It is also necessary to check the geometry of the foundation: the angles are strictly at 90 °, the diagonals are equal.

With a change house width of not more than 2.5 m and using a wooden beam for the frame, blocks are placed in each corner, as well as under those places where the partitions depart. If the building will be without partitions, the spacing step - every 1.5-2 m - depends on the cross-section of the beam and the planned sheathing, as well as the weight roofing material. With a width of 3 m or more, an intermediate beam is required, and a base for it. In this case, three rows of blocks are obtained.

To prevent dampness from entering the premises, waterproofing is laid on the blocks. You can - two layers of roofing material, you can - another waterproofing material, even a film. Another option is to brush bituminous mastic. On this, the foundation can be considered ready.

Step-by-step instructions: photo reports with explanations

It is difficult to understand some things from the description. No matter how much you read, but until you do it, or at least look at how others do it, you won’t understand. That's why photos of the construction of change houses are useful: you can see how the nodes were made and find a solution for yourself. This is a kind of guide for those who decide to build on their own.

Construction of a wooden cabin

A change house was built from wood in the country. Dimensions 3 * 6 m, insulated - for temporary residence during the construction of the house. Used the following materials:

Since the prices of materials are very dependent on the region, it makes no sense to talk about the cost of construction. But according to this list, you yourself can determine with fairly high accuracy how much a change house built by yourself will result.

Please note that this list does not include roofing material (ondulin was planned) and there is no glass. Also, lining for interior decoration.

Before the start of construction, all wood, with the exception of the lining, was treated with Senezh Ultra antibacterial impregnation. Coated in two layers. So the quality of processing should be normal.

The site for the building has been marked out. We decided to put the blocks on the sand bed. They dug holes with a depth of 25-30 centimeters, poured sand, tamped. Set up blocks. First, they put out the two extreme ones, put a flat board on them, and a level on it. So put the extreme blocks. Then intermediate boards were adjusted to the height of the board. So on all sides.

The next step was laying the floor joists. They were put in 50 cm, we will put racks through one. Made from a board 50 * 100 mm, placed on a narrow part.

We decided to immediately assemble racks with rafters on the ground, strengthen the joints with corners, and then install them in finished form. Collected from the same board 50 * 100 mm.

We knock down the front rack - it is longer, the back and the rafters

They nailed the racks with long nails. Then, for reliability, all attachment points were reinforced with corners and plates. They were already planted on self-tapping screws.

Bars 50 * 50 mm were nailed on the sides of the log. It turned out "nests" for laying foam. He was placed on mounting foam: and hermetic and reliable. A floor board was nailed on top.

Now the sheathing has gone directly. A lining of packs of 3 meters went to the short side, six meters were nailed to the long ones.

Having made the sheathing to half, they laid the crate under the roofing. They nailed a board 25 * 150 mm in increments of 30 cm, along the edges a pitch of 20 cm (so that the overhang could withstand). Then we continued with the trim.

In the places where the windows will stand, they put mortgages - a board that lies across the rack. The window frame will rest on it. They fastened with nails, through and through, but additionally the connections were reinforced with corners.

When the back and blind side walls were sewn up almost to the top, roofing material was rolled onto the roof. He will lie until we buy ondulin.

The outer casing is almost ready. Doors were bought without finishing - only a frame upholstered with fiberboard

While we were finishing nailing the lining on the outside, work was also in full swing inside - they put foam. The width of the sheet is 100 cm, the distance between the posts turned out to be 95 cm. Thin strips have to be cut off.

So that it does not “fall”, we grab it from above with thin corners, which we attach, of course, only to the bar of the rack.

We started lining the inside, but the lining ended. While switched to painting the outside. It turned out well, it seems.

We bought the lining, finished the interior decoration.

Started building the partition. It was assembled from the same boards - 50 * 150 mm. The joints, traditionally, were reinforced with corners. Sheathed - clapboard.

Roof insulation has begun. They used the same foam and the same technology - they propped it up with corners.

Joints with wall insulation were foamed with mounting foam.

After we started lining the clapboard.

Ceiling trim finished

Started installing roofing. We bought ondulin and laid it with an overlap on one wave. They were attached to each wave with special hardware purchased along with ondulin.

Mounting ondulin on the roof of a garden shed

Then we began to bring to mind the interior. The partition was also insulated with foam, sheathed on the second side with clapboard.

This is how it looks like in the final version

Lining inside is covered with water-based varnish. It gives only a light tint in a little more dark color. Films on wood seem to be non-existent. If you look directly, it generally seems that the tree is not covered with anything. Only if you look from the side at a certain angle, you can see the shine.

On the floor, the varnish is already with a film: so that the wood does not wear out. Coated in two layers.

After we started finishing the overhangs. They were all sewn up with the same clapboard. In general, work with lining took the most time.

And this is a side view

Metal frame for shed

Metal was chosen as the basis as more reliable and durable. The idea that the change house may have to be moved also played its role. If the frame is made of metal, nothing threatens her.

The dimensions were determined based on the length of the corner whips: 11.7 m. The following dimensions emerged: 2.8 * 5.8 m, height - 2.5 m. The frame was welded from a corner with a shelf of 75 mm, 6 mm thick.

The foundation is made on self-cast columns: construction began in autumn, and there is still nothing more to be done. So it was decided to pour reinforced posts: six pieces. First, the site was marked out, after which the places for the foundation columns were determined.

Holes 50*50 cm were dug, the total depth was about 30 cm. Crushed stone was poured into the bottom with a layer of about 10-15 cm and compacted tightly. From above, the same amount of sand, also with a rammer. As a result, the backfill came out on the same level with the ground.

Roofing material is laid at the bottom so that moisture does not leave the concrete, and it “matured” normally, and did not dry out. Next, the formwork was assembled and the reinforcement was laid in it.

The site is dry, the water drains normally, so there shouldn't be any problems. , so that the reinforcement is either welded or twisted - it is not clear.

Everything is filled with concrete, covered with a film: the end of October, and in order for the concrete to be of a normal fortress, it needs to be wrapped.

The frame frame was cooked for a long time - all winter: frosts, workload, did not allow to act with the desired frequency. The base was cooked from a corner of 75 mm, 6 mm thick, 40 * 2 mm were used for reinforcement.

The beginning of the frame of the change house from metal corner- bottom harness

The side parts were cooked as a whole, then with the help of 4 people they were placed in a vertical position and so fixed. On the racks to which the window frames and doors will be attached, profiled pipes 40 * 40 * 2 mm went.

The most inconvenient moment is to measure the diagonals alone. You have to constantly control them, and doing it alone is inconvenient. But everything must be set, otherwise it will be skewed.

To give greater rigidity, I welded strips of metal in the corners. I received them by opening a corner (40 mm). It was possible to buy a strip, but I used corner trimmings.

Stripes for rigidity in the corners of the frame

View from inside the corner

It was difficult when they put the frames: in the cold, only in thick gloves, and it is difficult to hold them tightly. Therefore, they propped up with boards, with everything they could. But the corner was kept strictly.

In order to have a rigid fastening to the frame, metal plates are welded at an angle.

Gradually assembled the entire frame.

We weld the plates in the corners: top and bottom

We weld a few beams at the top. Now the frame for the change house is "iron"

Now the skin remains. It can be anything: at least the same lining, block house, at least an economy option - plywood and OSB. To attach the bleaching to the corner, it is more convenient to screw the timber, and to it already attach the crate and everything else. The same situation for truss system: around the perimeter, a bar is screwed onto self-tapping screws with preliminary drilling, rafters are attached to it.

Project and drawings of the trailer

To purchase the required materials, the first step is to determine the size of the summer house, develop a layout and draw up an estimate according to the drawings. At the same time, consider how to use this building later, when a full-fledged residential building appears on the site. As a rule, the owners turn a temporary trailer into a bathhouse, a shed or a guest house.

Advice. It is desirable to provide for the dimensions of the structure in multiples of 1.5, for example, 3 x 6, 4.5 x 6 or 4.5 x 9 m. This will save materials, most of which are produced according to building standards.

Layout options

Draw a plan and a side view of the future building, taking into account the following recommendations:

Use the principle of minimalism. The dwelling should be comfortable and at the same time compact, so take the most “running” size as a basis - 3 x 6 m. If desired, it can be extended to 4.5 m by adding a terrace.
Try not to make walk-through rooms. If you need 2 living quarters, place the entrance with a vestibule in the middle, as shown in the drawing below.
For a one-room house, provide a vestibule and a porch from the side or from the end.
Doors from the bathroom or a separate shower and toilet should go into the corridor, and not into the bedroom.
Plan the roof to be pitched with a slope of at least 10 ° and overhangs for effective water drainage.
Window small size are needed in the living rooms and in the kitchen, for the bathroom it is enough to make a ventilation opening.

When the layout is ready, you can proceed to the selection of building materials, the calculation of their quantity and the preparation of estimates. It must be understood that all change houses are built using frame technology in the following ways:

from wooden beams the frame is mounted and sheathed on both sides with clapboard (or other lining), insulation is laid inside;
the same, only the frame is welded from metal;
construction from steel profiles finished with insulated sandwich panels.

Note. The construction shed with sandwich sheathing, shown in the photo, is very attractive with its appearance. Until you find out how much such panels and shaped additions to them cost.

A wooden trailer is easier to build, lighter and cheaper than a metal one, although not as durable. If you are not a welder, but you know how to handle wood and are limited in funds, then a house made of timber - suitable option. A few tips on how to choose wood and other materials for it:

A beam of 10 x 5 cm will go to the main structural elements - racks and strapping beams. If you need to make the house warmer and lay insulation 100 mm thick (instead of 50 mm) in the walls, then the section of the racks must be increased to 15 cm.
Make floor logs and rafters from edged boards 50 x 100 mm. For jibs and lintels, take a bar 50 x 50 mm.
Boards 25 x 100 mm will fit for roofing lathing.
As a heater, use mineral wool, protected from the outside by a diffusion membrane (wind barrier);
For exterior cladding, use clapboard, block house or corrugated board. From the inside of the room, it is better to line it with plastic panels, and how to do it correctly is described here.
There are several options for budget roofing: the same profiled sheet, slate and ondulin.

Building from SIP panels

Advice. If instead of mineral wool you want to take a cheaper insulation - polystyrene foam, then provide wall cladding from OSB boards, following the example of Canadian SIP panels. The fact is that wood does not like to contact with moisture-impervious polymers and begins to rot.

If you need to mount a reliable steel change house, then prepare profile pipes with a cross section of at least 60 x 60 mm for the frame and roof truss, and 40 x 40 and 40 x 60 mm for the crate. The construction technology is similar to the manufacture of a wooden trailer, the difference lies in the welding fasteners.

How to build a house - guide

The construction of a wagon - change houses with their own hands is divided into several stages:

Foundation preparation.
Frame assembly, flooring.
Installation of roof structures and coatings.
The device of an external and internal covering with warming.
Summing up engineering communications.

Since the wooden trailer is a rather light structure, it is not required to prepare a capital foundation for it. It is quite enough to place concrete blocks on a leveled piece of land in such a way that their upper sides are in the same plane. Observe the installation step of 1.5 m, which means that with a change house width of 3 m, the blocks must be placed in 3 rows - two external and one in the middle.

Note. For more massive metal houses, shallow foundations are built in the form of columns of several blocks resting on a sand cushion. The process of marking and the device of the columnar base is shown in the video:

The simplest foundations made of solid blocks will allow your structure to stand for 2 to 5 years, then distortions will appear due to subsidence. If you are counting on a longer period, in order to later convert the change house into a bathhouse, then it is necessary to lay a capital columnar foundation of brick with waterproofing according to the scheme:

Frame installation

At this stage of construction, it is necessary to make a lower trim from a bar and mount the walls. Step by step it looks like this:

Treat the wood thoroughly with an antiseptic. Cover the upper planes of the columns with roofing felt, folded in half for good waterproofing.
Make cuts at the ends of the strapping bars for joining in half a tree, as shown in the diagram. Lay these beams on the foundations and fasten them together, maintaining an angle of 90 ° (checked by measuring the diagonals).
Saw 2 grooves in the middle of the short bars and install the middle beam. The binding is ready.

Note. There is an easier way - to use 150 x 50 mm boards installed on the edge as beams. But it won’t work out cheaper, because the boards will have to be installed more often, and the design will not be so reliable. The simplified technology is described in the video:

The next step is the installation of floor logs from boards installed on the edge with a step of 50 or 60 cm (depending on the width of the insulation boards). Cranial bars are nailed to them on the sides, where subfloor boards and heat-insulating material with a hydrobarrier are laid.

After the installation of the heat-insulating layer, the logs are covered with a vapor barrier film in accordance with the scheme, and then the finishing floors are laid from the boards.

Floor insulation scheme

The walls of the frame change house are assembled in a horizontal position, right on the floor. Put together a shield of the first longitudinal wall with lintels (belts) and racks for windows and doors, be sure to install the jibs, as shown in the photo. On top of the first partition, immediately assemble the second, and then the side walls.

Alternately lift all the frames, put them in the design position and fasten them together. If everything is done correctly, then one longitudinal wall should be 0.5-0.6 m higher than the other to ensure the slope of the pitched roof.

Reference. Metal carcass welded from profile pipes or corners in place, in a vertical position. It is important to maintain an angle of 90 ° between the posts and beams and weld oblique stiffeners in time so that the structure does not lead.

Roof device

To block the country change house, it is necessary to install and fix the rafters from the boards 150 x 50 mm, turned on edge. Beams are mounted directly above the racks and with the same pitch; galvanized corners can be used for fastening so as not to cut grooves. Sheathing boards are placed on top along the rafters and nailed to them. There is another option: the rafters are immediately covered with sheets of OSB plywood, as shown in the picture.

Note. The rafters must protrude beyond the dimensions of the trailer by at least 150 mm and form roof overhangs. Subsequently, their ends are sewn up in front with boards.

As a roofing, ondulin is most often used, laid on a wind protection (superdiffusion membrane). Film sheets are laid out from the bottom up with an overlap of 100 mm and fixed with a stapler, after which ondulin or corrugated board is mounted. How the frame-panel assembly of the trailer takes place, you can look at the video:

Sheathing and wall insulation

Unlike ready-made change houses, we build a comfortable temporary dwelling, so the outer walls must be sheathed according to the construction technology frame houses. The "pie" of warming the external fences of the dwelling is shown in the diagram:

Finishing work is carried out in the following order:

Stretch and fasten on the outside of the windproof membrane web. Next sew up the facades OSB boards, and then ennoble them with clapboard or corrugated board.
Between the uprights, insert basalt wool slabs (recommended) or other thermal insulation material. From the inside, cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film and nail it with planks to the racks.
The last step is the interior lining. Usually the vapor barrier is sutured with the same OSB plywood, to which the internal finishing material is attached - plastic panels, block house, wallpaper and so on.

Installation of wind protection film

Note. Thermal insulation and finishing of ceilings is carried out according to the same scheme. But here it is desirable to use a thicker insulation, as on the floors.

Upon completion of finishing, install windows and doors, mount ebbs and drainage systems. At the outer corners, under the roof overhangs and in the lower part of the structure, place shaped elements that cover the joints of the finishing materials.

Internal arrangement of the dwelling

Normal living conditions imply the presence of minimal amenities - heating, running water with sewerage and electricity. It is assumed that these communications are already in the country, it remains only to connect them to the change house. We make the following recommendations in this regard:

Heating can be arranged in two types - electric or wood. In the first case, it is necessary to install convectors or other heaters in the premises, in the second, to mount a chimney and a stove. It's important to protect wooden structures from fire - close the walls near the stove with iron sheets, and insulate the chimney with fireproof basalt fiber.
Plumbing and sewage pipe it starts up through the floors of the trailer, going there along pre-dug trenches. See the diagram below for how this is done.
An electric cable (CIP brand is recommended) is attached to a bracket mounted on the wall, after which it enters the room through the hole. A protective device (RCD) must be placed at the input, and behind it - a control panel with circuit breakers on the lines of sockets and lighting.

Advice. Internal electrical wiring is best done in plastic cable channels, they look neat and pretty. Lead the power line to the heaters with a wire of a larger cross section (be guided by the dimensions of the connecting factory cables with plugs). All passages through wooden walls perform in metal cases, in other words, in pipes.

Conclusion

The change house is a temporary building. But, as usual, there is nothing more permanent than temporary buildings. Hence the conclusion: approach the construction thoroughly, as if you are building garden house or bath. Of course, it will take much more time, and you won’t be able to save money, but after a dozen years, you will probably appreciate your own work. A purchased construction trailer for such a period will turn into a ruin.

If you need temporary housing for personal plot, it is worth buying change houses country wooden. Compared to capital buildings, they cost much less, they are mobile, permission is not required for their installation, and over time you will no longer be able to do without a change house. The design will serve as a holiday home, your separate office, it is converted into a kitchen near the barbecue or just a place for guests.

Comparing a wooden structure and a metal one, it is worth paying attention to distinctive features bar change houses:

The tree has a more aesthetic appearance near the natural environment.
The material is much lighter, which makes it easy to transport the change house to remote areas. For unloading, you do not need to resort to the use of heavy equipment.
Possible self assembly or demolition of a temporary structure.
Undeniable environmental friendliness of the product.
Low cost of a change house in comparison with the container or trailer.

How is the interior of the change house lined?

Finishing modern building materials allows change houses to compete with stationary houses. The interior of country change houses depends on the tasks that are set for it. Of course, if you need a change house only for a tool warehouse, then insulation is not required, and ordinary OSB panels or hardboard are suitable for walls.

But most often, country wooden change houses are needed for temporary residence. Therefore, everything inside the structure must be equipped for this: walls and ceilings are lined with clapboard or MDF panels, conduct electricity, heating, reliably insulate the space between the facade and the wall to reduce heating costs in the cold season. Wooden change houses are more heat-resistant; one radiator is enough to heat them in winter.

The zoning of change houses is common: a vestibule, a bedroom, a kitchen area, a bathroom and a shower. Everything should be at hand in such a moving house. Change houses equip two bunk beds, thereby saving free space. Capacious and small at the same time change houses have a standard size of 2.5m * 6m, which makes it easy to transport them on the roads.

Table 1. Characteristics of a standard country wooden change house

Name	Description
Dimensions	2.562.3m
total area	13.8 sq. m
Design	Frame - panel construction from a bar 5 * 5 cm
Flooring	An unedged board is laid on logs, hydro- and vapor barrier is carried out, insulated mineral wool 50 mm thick, a grooved board is laid on top
Walls and ceiling	Internal finishing with clapboard or OSB boards, or hardboard
Window	Single (summer change house) or double glazing

What kind of facade can country wooden change houses have?

Country wooden change houses are often sheathed with dried clapboard, which is a budget option for finishing. But today, manufacturers offer several types of lining, which will be discussed later. Therefore, if you are planning to install a change house for a long time, then you should choose more quality material for the facade or even for interior work.

Finishing timber imitation will allow you to independently and quickly sheathe the temporary hut, since the material has joints in the form of groove-pinch. The difference between such a bar and a planed one is that the lumber has a moisture content of 16-18%, so over time you will not see cracks or blue spots on coniferous wood in the change house.

Eurolining differs from the usual high quality, since it is produced on imported equipment. Permissible moisture content of the material - no more than 15%, the connection is also in the form of groove-strings. The surface of the lining has no defects and is perfectly smooth. The length is from 1.5 to 6 m, and the thickness and width are unchanged 12.5 * 96 mm. Prices differ depending on the type of lining: per m2 from 120 to 200 rubles or per m3 from 9.5 to 16 thousand rubles. The installation of the material occurs in most cases vertically with the help of brackets or fasteners-clamps at an angle of 50 degrees. Galvanized self-tapping screws are also suitable, but you should refuse nails, because they can ruin appearance cabins.

Change houses country wooden can be lined with a block house, which relatively recently appeared on the lumber market. It externally imitates a galvanized log or log house and has unique properties: an improved processing process contributes to increased wear resistance of wood, the material itself serves as a heater and protects the structure from destruction.

Externally, the block house is convex with front side and flat on the back. There are narrow and wide standard sizes this lining, the price of which ranges from 300 to 550 rubles per m2, from 12.5 to 15 thousand rubles per m3. It is possible to manufacture a block house according to your size. Installation of the material is quick with the help of stainless steel screws.

Designed for relatively long stay and recreation, their decoration must meet the requirements of convenience, aesthetics, safety and environmental friendliness.

Walls and ceilings, as a rule, are finished with the same material.

Fiberboard (hardboard) and MDF panels

In the most budget options interior trim usually hardboard (hardboard). The material is quite good, but very afraid of moisture. For example, if a kettle boils in a change house, then bumps may soon appear on the walls. Also, hardboard sheets are attached to the guides with small nails, from an aesthetic point of view it is better when the nails are covered with plastic strips.

Cheap does not mean sloppy: pay attention to the joints between the sheets, the absence of cracks and breaks.

Wall MDF panels in fact, this is also fiberboard, but created according to more modern technologies. Less afraid of moisture, more durable, many color options, and most importantly - more environmentally friendly than hardboard.

clapboard

The traditional material for finishing summer cottages (both walls and ceilings) is wooden lining. Its advantages include high environmental friendliness, ease of installation, excellent thermal insulation characteristics, durability. trimmed wooden clapboard the room immediately becomes cozy home view It always smells fresh natural wood. Caring for the lining is quite simple, it is easy to provide it in a summer cottage.

On the picture quality lining and good job, in practice, especially in "ready-made" change houses, usually the work is less accurate, and the material itself is far from good quality.

Look at the surface of the boards, it must be well processed, otherwise you risk getting a lot of trouble with splinters.

The difference in the decoration of the change house 6x2.3 clapboard or hardboard will be approximately 10-15,000 rubles.

Worth Considering lining, which has special grooves that provide ventilation and prevent condensation from settling - a more expensive option.

The disadvantages of wooden lining include its susceptibility to fungi, mold, rot and other damage caused by high humidity and insufficient heating in the cold season, which is quite typical for summer cottages, which are used mainly in the warm season. You can avoid this by processing the lining by special means. Finishing the premises with wooden clapboard entails the need for special fire safety measures.

In the decoration of change houses are often used plastic lining. Compared to wood, it costs less and is not subject to various destructive processes, being even more durable. The advantages of plastic lining include a variety of possible patterns and shades - under malachite, marble, wood, etc. Caring for plastic lining is extremely simple. At a height and its thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material include its artificial origin and, as a result, low environmental friendliness. Cheap grades of plastic lining emit into the air harmful substances and have a strong odor that can long time stand indoors. However, more expensive and high-quality varieties of these shortcomings are completely devoid of.

OSB

Relatively new material for this area: OSB- oriented strand board. At high temperature and pressure, flat rectangular chips are glued together with waterproof phenol-urea formaldehyde resin.

Very aesthetically pleasing, the material is environmentally friendly, easy to install, strong, durable. The cost of sheathing is cheaper than lining. The lining itself is burrs and a rough surface, but here everything is smooth and neat.

We reviewed the most popular finishing materials. PVC can be attributed to the "exotic" - plastic panels, they are not afraid of moisture, have good thermal insulation properties, but they are not popular with manufacturers of change houses. A change house is a budget solution, so the materials used are both familiar and common, and inexpensive.

Editor's choice: ordinary lining or OSB.

To reduce the cost of purchasing a change house, some owners of summer cottages and suburban areas buy wooden structures in the basic configuration without sheathing. After delivery and installation of the house, it is necessary to give it an elegant appearance. Besides facing material performs a dual function. Additionally, it protects the structure from penetrating cold and wind. Before starting work, read the instructions on how to properly sheathe a change house with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

Initially, you need to decide on the material for lining the change house. It can be sandwich panels, eurolining or an economy option - dried lining. You can also sheathe a change house from the outside with the help of:

House block imitating profiled timber;
Profiled sheet, which increases the strength of the walls and prevents the penetration of moisture around the entire perimeter of the wall;
Sidings. polymer material can be made of metal, but when laying it, it is necessary to additionally insulate the structure, or vinyl, the service life of which is estimated for decades.

For interior decoration, panels with imitation of natural timber are more suitable. They give the interior a finished look. stylish look and help to create a cozy living atmosphere in the room.

Panel mounting technology

The most common and cost-effective option to sheathe a change house from the outside remains laying finishing material with imitation timber. The individual elements are connected to each other with the help of groove-strings. The method of fastening them together resembles the assembly of a designer. First you need to attach the bottom panel to the wall with self-tapping screws, after which you should carefully put it on new part until a click occurs. Proper installation guarantees trouble-free service for 50 years. Lumber has a moisture content of 16-18%. Therefore, over time, it will become stronger and stronger, and even after years it will not lose its specifications and will not burn out in the scorching sun.

The eurolining fastens on galvanized self-tapping screws or by means of brackets. Lay the first layer, then fasten the inner bar to the clayer at an angle of 50 degrees. Repeat the operation to the last detail until the change house is completely sheathed.